PORT IS PERFECT FOR WARMING THE WINTER COLD

rich mauro the peoples palate

Portugal, with a winemaking heritage of around three thousand years, today is best known for Port, a wine with over a three hundred year history and considered among the great wines in the world. 

From the Douro Valley, world renowned for its dramatically sloping hillsides and terraced vineyards, this red dessert wine is made in two basic styles – ruby and tawny – with a number of variations within each style. But all typically are high alcohol (fortified with brandy to around 20% ABV) and bursting with red and black fruit flavors, richness, a hint of almond, and natural sweetness balanced with refreshing tannin and finished with a kick that always warms my soul. 

Vintage Port sits at the pinnacle of the Port ladder. It is highly praised for intensity and ability to develop over many decades. It is made only in exceptional years and bottled after only two years in wood. It is distinguished by power and concentration. 

  • 2020 Kopke ($85) the oldest Port house, established in 1638; displays characteristic structure and intensity; expressive, balanced, and refined 
  • 2010 Graham’s Quinta dos Malvedos ($65) house founded in 1820; rare single vineyard; finely structured and forward, but more elegant and ready to drink, yet its eucalyptus notes can be enjoyed for many more years

Port houses have developed variations over the decades to make their wines more accessible in taste and affordability.

As with most pinnacle wines, Vintage Port is beyond the reach of many consumers, either because it is too expensive or its incredible depths of flavor and complexity are overwhelming. Thus, Port houses have developed variations over the decades to make their wines more accessible in taste and affordability.

Late Bottled Vintage Port offers a taste of Vintage Port character, as it is made from very good wines that didn’t quite make the severe selection for Vintage Port but at a much more affordable price. Bottled after four to six years and ready to drink upon release, it will hold for several years.

  • 2016 Fonseca ($24) founded in 1815; unfiltered; touch of licorice, full-bodied, balances with lush tannins
  • Cockburn’s Special Reserve ($20) fruity, luscious, smooth, mellow 
  • Graham’s Six Grapes ($27) youthful, complex, structured, balanced

Ruby Port is the youngest, freshest and most accessible style, both in taste profile and price. Reserve Port – with exuberant fruit, intensity and richness is a bridge between Ruby Port and Vintage Port. 

  • Cockburn’s Special Reserve ($20) founded in 1815; the first Reserve Port in 1969; luscious fruity character and a smooth and mellow finish
  • Graham’s “Six Grapes” ($27) house established in 1820; classic youthful finesse, structured and balanced

Tawny Port is distinguished from Ruby Port by a process that marries multiple vintages for average periods ranging from ten to forty years in cask. Extensive aging results in a gradual transformation creating mellow wines known for complexity, purity of fruit and elegance. This also mellows the wines color from deep red to, well, tawny. And it balances the intense fruit of the base wine with wood character. As a result, the wines retain berry freshness even as they develop enticing qualities like almond and fig. Ready to drink upon release, expect a distinctive almond nuttiness, admirable balance, and a silky texture. 

10 Year Old tawnies are a good introduction to the style; you can discern these elements of age and a certain finesse. They are aged in wood an average of ten years and delightfully mellow with succulent fig and plum, with a little bitter almond.  

  • Croft ($37) founded in 1588; wonderfully aromatic, complex and luscious 
  • Kopke ($35) succulent, bright, intense and full

20 Year Old Tawny should provide more complexity and intensity. You experience the freshness, elegance and pure fruit with intense complexity, often with cinnamon, licorice and caramel. 

  • Taylor Fladgate ($50) established in 1692; opulent, enticing raisins, honey, and date 
  • Kopke ($70) luscious, graceful, deep, mellow 

Colheita Port (kohl-YAY-tah): Tawny Port from a single vintage year and quite rare; aged in cask for a minimum of seven years but often released long after that; tend to be surprisingly fresh, elegant and refined.

  • 2012 Kopke ($40) rich, intense, nutty, spicy

Colheita (kohl-YAY-tah) Ports are tawny Ports from a single vintage year and are fairly rare. Aged in cask for a minimum of seven years but often released long after that. They tend to be surprisingly fresh, elegant and refined.

2012 Kopke ($40) rich, intense, nutty, spicy

FINE SPARKLING WINES TO RING IN 2023

While sparkling wine is usually the wine of choice for special occasions, I suggest bubbly is to be enjoyed any time of year and at any occasion, including tonight’s meal. sparkling wine is made just about everywhere on the planet and at a variety of price points. Here is just a sampling. (All are nonvintage, unless otherwise state.)

One method for producing bubbles is the Charmat Method: bubbles come from the second fermentation in large, pressurized stainless steel tanks. Italian Prosecco is arguably the most popular example, and an especially good value. Expect fresh, delicate pear, apple, citrus, and peach complimented with a frothy palate.

Gancia, which lays claim to being the first Italian sparkling wine producer and also is known for its popular Vermouth, produces delightful Prosecco Brut (delicate, fresh citrus and pear) and Rosé ($14) are delightful choices. 

Villa Wolf, a premier estate in Germany’s Pfalz region, offers a Pinot Noir Rosé ($16) that is fresh and elegant with strawberry and cherry. By the way, German bubbles are  known as “sekt”.

The Champagne Method or Traditional Method, where bubbles form during a second fermentation in the bottle, usually generates the more prized (read expensive) wines. Italy also produces what they call Metodo Classico. While Franciacorta and Trentodoc are the best known examples, these delightful Sicilian bubbles should convince you to look south. 

  • Tenuta Nicosia “Sosta Tre Santi Etna”($30) from nerello mascalese grown at high altitude on the volcano, expect brisk lemon, pear, lychee, saline, mineral and saline 
  • Planeta Carricante Brut Sicilia DOC ($44) from carricante, fresh citrus and peach, delicate, and honeyed

How about an unlikely Traditional Method from Argentina? The 2020 Mascota Vineyards “Unánime” Brut ($20) from chardonnay and malbec, has good intensity and finishes creamy and elegant.

Arguably the best value in Champagne Method bubbly is Spanish Cava, primarily from the Penedès region near Barcelona, mostly native grapes. 

  • Segura Viudas Reserva Heredad ($30) its portfolio’s crown jewel, made with macabeo and parellada, is full and rich, yet elegant
  • Los Dos Brut ($13) from macabeo, xarel-lo, parellada, lemon, green apple, pear, and fresh bread
  • Mercat Brut Rosé ($14) from macabeo, xarel-lo, parellada, and monastrell, fresh red berries and crisp citrus

Of course, there also is an abundance of fine California Champagne Method sparkling wine. 

  • 2016 Frank Family Blanc de Blancs ($55) chardonnay; lively citrus, delicate, rich; 2017 Brut Rosé pinot noir; complex, red berries, refined
  • 2018 Cuvaison Brut Cuvée ($50) pinot noir, chardonnay; luscious citrus, brioche;
  • 2017 Cuvaison Brut Rosé ($60) pinot noir, chardonnay; raspberry, pink grapefruit, succulent 
  • 2019 Sosie “Bare Necessity” Rosé ($36) syrah; apple, strawberry, almond
  • 2019 Goldeneye Brut Rose ($70) Anderson Valley, 100% pinot noir, intense cherry and strawberry with pleasant yeasty notes
  • 2019 Sonoma-Cutrer Grand Brut Rose ($55) Russian River Valley 70% pinot noir, 30% chardonnay

And from Oregon, especially Argyle in Willamette Valley, one of the state’s premier sparkling wine makers since its founding in 1987. 

  • 2018 Brut ($30) chardonnay with pinot noir and pinot meunier, rich with juicy lemon custard 
  • 2019 Blanc de Blancs ($30) chardonnay; intense, energetic citrus, stone fruits, toasty, light spice, lush texture 
  • 2012 Extended Tirage Brut ($85) pinot noir, chardonnay; specially produced from extended aging is impressively complex and full flavored.

Finally, an impressive new sparkler from Laurent Gruet, who is well-known for world class bubbles under the Gruet label from his unlikely base in Albuquerque, New Mexico. With 40 years of sparkling wine making experience, he is breaking boundaries with Silverhead Brut ($25), a new release from Vara Winery & Distillery. Collaborating with respected California winemakers Bob Lindquist and Louisa Sawyer Lindquist to blend chardonnay and syrah from Washington with xarel-lo and macabeo from Spain. Produced by the Traditional Method Silverhead is delightful with lemon, apple and toast. 

HOLIDAY WINE GIFTS 

If you are looking for a wine splurge for the holidays, consider these California Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Bordeaux-style Blends. The following wines are among the best wines I tasted this year. And whether you gift yourself or someone else, these wines showcase a pursuit of excellence regardless of price.

Cabernet Sauvignon

2019 Brandlin Estate ($90) fruit grown on Brandlin’s Mt. Veeder estate on a ridgeline high in the Mayacamas mountains; with petit verdot, cabernet franc and malbec; rich, full-bodied, firm texture; abundant dark berries, balanced with bay leaf, anise and graceful tannins 

2019 Spottswoode “Lyndenhurst” ($90) widely regarded as among Napa Valley’s elite, with the Estate Cabernet Sauvignon among the valley’s best each vintage; Lyndenhurst, the estate’s second wine, is nearly as good; with cabernet franc, petit verdot, merlot and malbec; succulent red and black fruits, earthy and tobacco notes, and refined, texture. 

2019 Sullivan Rutherford Estate “Coeur de Vigne” ($120) established in the 1970’s in a prime location in the Napa Valley, since 2018, new owners have elevated the winery’s already high reputation; with petit verdot, cabernet franc and merlot; concentrated cherry, cassis, with cedar and tobacco notes and a pleasantly dense texture 

2018 J. Lohr “Signature” ($100) tribute to founder Jerry Lohr’s pioneering efforts in Paso Robles; an expression of the high elevation Beck Vineyard in the Creston District of Paso Robles, represents the winery’s ultimate red wine; with a small addition of the rare Bordeaux variety Saint-Macaire and a dollop of malbec; dense dark fruits, toasty and chocolate notes, elegant tannins 

Merlot 

2019 Duckhorn Three Palms Vineyard ($115) once again this “grand cru” vineyard on the Napa Valley floor has produced a top-notch wine; succulent black cherry, currant, toast, herbs and spice, balanced with olive, tobacco, and oak; structured with richness and depth and polish

2019 Sullivan Rutherford Estate “J.O. Sullivan Founder’s Reserve” ($290) a tribute to James O’Neil Sullivan who founded the modern winery in 1972; with merlot, cabernet sauvignon, and petit verdot; tightly focused structure yields to concentrated dark currant and plum, dried herb, savory spice and cedar, with a silky palate 

Blends

Hamel Family Wines. From a leading organic and biodynamic producer, two Sonoma Valley special vineyard reserve wines ($160), each blends cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc: 2018 Nuns Canyon Vineyard – high elevation site, concentrated wild berry, black plum and licorice, savory accents, rich yet graceful, balanced with firm structure; 2018 Hamel Family Ranch – juicy dark berries, mineral and chocolate notes, hints of anise and a cedary element; full bodied, yet supple 

2019 Brandlin “Henry’s Keep” ($110) with malbec, petit verdot and cabernet franc; similar in many ways to the Cabernet above but more complex with slightly more oak and concentration, yet a silky finish 

2016 Sequoia Grove “Cambium” ($150) another winery established in the 1970s in the heart of Rutherford; blend of the winery’s best lots; with cabernet franc and petit verdot; bold red berries and cassis, with touches of fragrant, mocha, licorice, earth and oak, with a powerful structure 

2018 Chalk Hill “Estate Red” ($85) a selection of the best lots of grapes grown on the estate’s steep, hillside vineyards located in the appellation of the same name in Sonoma; cabernet sauvignon with malbec, petit verdot and carménère; rich with flamboyant black fruits, tobacco, baking spices, bay leaf, in a full-bodied frame and lush new oak, finishing with soft tannins

GOGOL BORDELLO RISES AGAIN TO FIGHT FOR SOLIDARITY 

Gogol Bordello founder Eugene Hütz’s journey from Ukraine to the U.S. is a tale of how an “immigrant punk” (Gypsy Punks) comes to America, urges fellow travelers “Let’s Get Radical” (Multi Kontra Culti vs. Irony), pays tribute to his “Strange Uncles from Abroad” (Super Taranta!), becomes a “Wonderlust King” (Super Taranta!) traveling the world looking for understanding of the times that we live in, and invents a new kind of roots rock.

Embracing his and the planet’s circumstances, he declares “there never were any good old days … it’s a stupid thing we say” (“Ultimate”, Super Taranta!) so you must trust yourself to “Dig Deep Enough” (Pura Vida Conspiracy) even as the world makes that hard to do. The songs pay tribute to the determination and perseverance (historically and in the present) of Ukranians and all marginalized peoples. All while musically reimagining Emma Goldman’s admonition about dancing and revolution.

And that is where Eugene Hütz’s music compliment his words. First the music hits you with an infectious beat that clearly is rock, even as it summons Eastern European and sometimes South American folk music. Drums and bass drive the music forward as violin and accordion reach out and grab the listener. And yes there are plenty of electric and acoustic guitars but I bet you will be surprised (if you didn’t know already) that this is a fundamentally a punk rock band. Just not what you might normally think of as punk rock.

By the time I discovered the band just before release of their 2013 Pura Vida Conspiracy album, it already had been around a bit more than ten years. Hütz founded Gogol Bordello (named after influential Ukrainian writer Nikolai Gogol) in New York City in 1999, after leaving Ukraine in the aftermath of Chernobyl and eventually settling in Vermont. Having been embedded in punk rock and international musics, especially Eastern European folk music – Balkan and Romani, for instance – while in Ukraine, Hütz evolved a fusion that has been dubbed “Gypsy Punk”. 

The band – intentionally intergenerational, multinational, and multicultural – quickly became underground cult favorites. The group’s high energy music also has at times incorporated elements of reggae, metal, Latin rock, and polka (and probably others I haven’t discerned). The energetic music and spirited concert performances have earned the band a global following. I’m told they average 200+ shows each year internationally. 

And at a Denver show on July 14, just as expected, Hütz and bandmates Sergey Ryabtsev (violin), Ashley Tobias (accordion), Pedro Erazo (percussion), Boris Pelekh (guitar), Korey Kingston (drums), and Gil Alexander (bass) were nonstop energy, exuberance and joy as they played through a set of songs that kept the crowd moving and singing and fist pumping throughout. 

Many of the songs, like “Suddenly… [I Miss Carpaty]” (Super Taranta!), begin temperately and build to a crescendo. Others, like “I Would Never Wanna Be Young Again” (Gypsy Punks) hit the ground running with a glorious Gypsy Punk aural onslaught. The concert also featured a couple of songs from the new album Solidaritine – “Focus Coin” and “Fire on Ice Floe” – that continue the energy of this seeker’s struggle to build unity as we all search to “make sense outta nonsense” (as Linton Kwesi Johnson would say). 

On another Solidaritine song “Blueprint” (actually an inventive cover of a Fugazi song), he sings, “nevermind what they’re selling; its what you’re buying”. Well, I’m definitely buying what Eugene Hütz and Gogol Bordello are selling.

Intrigued? Of course, check out the referenced albums and the band’s website (which has a page dedicated to resources for supporting Ukraine). And look for the new documentary, Scream of My Blood, A Gogol Bordello Story (which won an award earlier this year at the Tribeca Film Festival) and the charity single “United Strike Back” (All proceeds will go to Kind Deeds to help wounded Ukrainian defenders regain mobility with prosthetics.). 

WHEN VISITING VAIL, LOOK TO THIS HAVEN TO REJUVENATE

Vail is an extraordinary vacation destination. Best known as one of the world’s best ski resort towns, it also boasts world class warmer weather outdoor experiences, including hiking, biking, golf, fishing, dining, concerts and festivals.

And after a day of experiencing what Vali has to offer, a visitor will want to retire to a relaxing destination for a respite, some rejuvenation, and some pampering. Situated at the base of Vail Mountain, nestled in the heart of Lionshead Village, The Hythe (https://www.thehythevail.com/) is an ideal place for this.

The Hythe, which means “haven” in Olde English, is part of the Marriott Luxury Collection (https://the-luxury-collection.marriott.com/), which boast around 100 distinctive properties all over the world. Each is unique and independent, tailored to the environment, history and culture of its setting. In this case, The Hythe reflects the history and passions of Vail’s founders and creates opportunities for guests to share in those passions.

Those founders – both avid skiers – actually met in Aspen after having both served in WWII. In their honor, The Hythe cultivates a variety of mountain experiences that reflect the camaraderie of Vail’s founders and the European ski culture they loved. You can experience the revelry, camaraderie and hospitality associated with the Swiss après (after activities) culture.

The property underwent a $40 million renovation completed in 2021. It has the capacity to host many meetings, conferences and events. And the resort can assist guests with accessing all Vail has to offer, including, depending on the season, private snowmobile rides and foraging forays on the mountain. At the resort itself, the remodel also intentionally created multiple communal spaces, where guests can gather to enjoy a meal, a drink or a snack.

Speaking of food and drink, you can start your day or pick up some provisions for your alpine adventures with a selection of freshly made grab-and-go items from Mountain Ration Grab & Go.

Dine-in options during our stay included breakfast selections from Margie’s Haas restaurant, a tribute to the World War II local home cook, Margie Haas, who welcomed soldiers from the 10th Mountain Division into her home. I enjoyed the Huevos Rancheros and my wife said the French toast (not too sweet) was excellent – and she is a French Toast afficionado. 

And in the spirit of revelry cultivated by Vail’s founders, the Revel Lounge welcomes guests to where the après begins. Capturing that revelry and passion for the mountains, Revel is an inviting space to gather for restoration from the day’s adventures with hand-crafted cocktails and Colorado-inspired cuisine. 

Revel offers fine dinner options under the guidance of Chef de Cuisine, Lucas Ardemagri. Our dinner began with an abundant charcuterie tray, which included locally source foods like B Squared honeycomb, from Berthoud, CO). The next night, grilled artichokes were expertly prepared and a fine first course. Our entrées – Cast Iron-Seared Organic Half Chicken, Colorado Mountain Trout, and Power Bowl – also impressed. I found the Power Bowl particularly welcome as someone who often prefers a vegetarian option. It’s mix of wild rice, roasted summer squash, farro, quinoa, Brussel sprouts, and spinach was well seasoned and tasty (and a protein can be added, if you prefer). Desserts included ripe, juicy berries and cream and an intense, yet balanced flourless chocolate cake.

And the wine list was equally notable. A before dinner “cocktail” of Andeluna 1300 Chardonnay (from Argentina) was outstanding. My chicken entrée was nicely accented with the bright red fruit and lush texture of a fine Easton Zinfandel (from Amador County, California) at our first dinner and the second night, an Alois Lageder Pinot Grigio “Terra Alpina” (from Italy’s northern Dolomite region) offered just the right amount of crisp, refreshing citrus and melon notes to accompany my Power Bowl. And I welcomed each being nicely served in fine Riedel stemware.

My only disappointment of the visit was that 10th Mountain (the lobby bar), a partnership with local distillery 10th Mountain Whiskey & Spirit Company, was closed. I missed the chance to savor Colorado-crafted whiskey, appetizers, and a full bar. 

And I missed a chance to have $1 from a 10th Mountain Whiskey & Spirits cocktail is donated to the Vail Veterans Program. The Hythe also commendably sponsors Supporting Our Veterans (www.vailveteransprogram.org).

Finally, to cap off a busy, likely physically challenging day, the perfect prescription is a visit to Alpine-inspired nourishing treatments at The Hythe’s Well & Being Spa (https://www.thehythevail.com/wellness/spa/). I enjoyed a professional massage – there are half a dozen choices, including CBD Recovery, Himalayan Salt Stone, and Japanese-style Grounding. There are also multiple body treatments, facials, pedicures, and hair services. And be sure to experience the Himalayan Salt Therapy Lounge.

I close with a special commendation for the friendly, responsive service. My wife had specific needs for an accessible room and other accommodations and the staff was very helpful and understanding in working to get us the room and arranging a special sleep set up. I wasn’t sure what to expect when I was offered the opportunity to stay at the resort, but the professionalism of all the staff, the willingness to go the extra mile to accommodate our needs, and the high quality of all the food and services give me no hesitation in wholeheartedly recommending The Hythe for your next visit to Vail.

AFFORDABLE WINES TO LIGHT UP YOUR HOLIDAYS

Drink them yourself. Share them with family and friends. Use them for a nightly meal or holiday gatherings. Give them as gifts. Or all of the above. These wines will save you money you can use for other holiday purchases (or more wine) and they still deliver fine drinking quality.

Best alternative to Napa and Sonoma:

Central Coast (Paso Robles, Monterey, Arroyo Seco)

J. Lohr ($13-17)

2021 Chardonnay Riverstone 

2021 Sauvignon Blanc Flume Crossing 

2020 Cabernet Sauvignon Seven Oaks 

2020 Merlot Los Osos 

2021 Pinot Noir Falcon’s Perch 

2020 Syrah South Ridge 

2021 Vaildiguié Wildflower 

Ancient Peaks 

2020 Cabernet Sauvignon Santa Margarita Ranch ($25)

Justin 

2021 Rosé ($20)

Second Best alternative to Napa and Sonoma: Lodi

7 Deadly ($16)

2018 7 Deadly Zins Old Vine 

2019 7 Deadly Cab 

Three Girls ($14)

2020 Sauvignon Blanc

2020 Chardonnay 

Mettler ($25)

2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Grown 

2019 Zinfandel Epicenter Old Vine 

Sonoma strikes back: 

Balletto ($25)

2021 Rose of Pinot Noir 

2021 Teresa’s Unoaked Chardonnay

Quivira 

2021 Sauvignon Blanc ($19)

2021 Wine Creek Ranch Rosé ($25) 

Estate quality wines at négociant prices:

de Négoce (Cameron Hughes partners with high end producers to sell direct-to-consumer, $18-29)

2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla 

2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 

2020 Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 

2020 Pinot Noir Petaluma Gap

For organic and sustainable wine seekers (and everyone else): 

Girasole (Mendocino, $18)

2020 Charlie’s Blend Red Wine

2021 Pinot Noir

Tribute (California, $20)

2021 Cabernet Sauvignon 

2020 Sauvignon Blanc

Vento di Mare (Italy, $12)

2020 Pinot Grigio

2020 Grillo

2021 Nero d’Avola

2021 Pinot Noir

France

2021 Domaine les Capreoles “Cossinelle” Beaujolais Villages Rosé ($19)

2021 Jean-Paul Brun “La Rose d’ Folie” Beaujolais Rosé ($18)

For the hunter (and everyone else):

Decoy (California, whites $20/reds $25)

2020 Cabernet Sauvignon

2020 Merlot

2020 Pinot Noir 

2019 Red Wine

2019 Zinfandel

2021 Chardonnay

2021 Sauvignon Blanc

2021 Rosé

For pro football fans who prefer wine to beer:

Charles Woodson’s Intercept ($20)

2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles

2020 Chardonnay Monterey

Blends: when the sum is greater than its parts 

Conundrum (California, $25)

2021 White

2020 Red

Pinot Grigio from the source: Northern Italy

2020 Banfi Centine Toscana ($13)

2021 Banfi San Angelo Toscana ($20)

2020 Kris delle Venezie ($12)

More light, refreshing European whites:

Spain (Rias Baixas)

2020 Ethereo ($20)

2020 Deusa Nai ($19)

Portugal (Vinho Verde, Bodegas Esporao) 

2021 Bico Amarelo ($12)

2021 Ameal Loureiro ($18)

French varieties from the source:

Mouton Cadet ($15)

2020 Blanc (mostly sauvignon blanc)

2020 Rosé (mostly merlot)

Fat Bastard ($14)

2020 Chardonnay 

2020 Pinot Noir 

For a taste of wine from one of its oldest origins: Georgia

Teliani “Saperavi” Red ($15) 

MORE COLORADO CONNECTED WINES FOR YOUR HOLIDAYS

While I enjoy Colorado wines all year, I especially appreciate them during the holidays.  And that includes California wines with a Colorado connection. 

What’s more of an auspicious Colorado connection than John Elway? His 7Cellars winery was founded in 2015, along with Napa Valley’s One Hope winery and Napa winemaker Rob Mondavi, Jr. 

Elway’s Reserve wines (Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon) are, not surprisingly, ideal steakhouse wines. But I suggest introducing yourself to the winery with The Farm Collection. The line of three varietal wines ($20) – Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Pinot Noir – celebrates Elway’s college days (“The Farm’ is the nickname for Stanford University) and is intended to be more approachable (in price and drinkability). 

One Hope_7Cellars Winery

“We are continually trying to improve our wine by sourcing the highest quality grapes from the finest wine regions in order to bring my home state of Colorado a wine they can be proud to call their own, said John Elway.” The Chardonnay is sourced from Arroyo Seco, the Pinot Noir from Monterey, and the Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso Robles. 

For each bottle purchased, 7Cellars makes a donation to Team Rubicon, a nonprofit organization that supports, trains and deploys U.S. veterans on disaster relief missions around the world. 

“My desire to contribute to Team Rubicon stems from my personal adulation for the people who are serving, and have served, in the armed forces. They are the true heroes of our country and deserve our utmost respect. Giving back to Team Rubicon through our sales of 7Cellars is just one way that we can show our gratitude.”

The wines are available in local shops and online at www.7cellars.com

atōst founders Kyle and Cindy Pressman

For something different, I am excited to introduce atōst – a brand of creative, wine-based apéritifs founded by Cindy and Kyle Pressman and crafted in Golden. After they became fascinated with European aperitifs and aperitivos, they decided to develop American versions. From sourcing to mentorship, local partners have been critical to atōst.From local ingredients to Chad Yakobson, founder and brewer of Crooked Stave Brewery in Denver, who has partnered with the Pressmans to build the production facility and assist with the fermentation and blending process. 

The process begins with a California Chardonnay base. Colorado honey is added for a light sweetness. Then, fresh, (often locally sourced) fruits, botanicals and herbs are macerated in distilled Sonoma grape spirits to create the flavors and colors of atōst. The two are blended to create the four aperitivo styles. Kyle adds, “It’s a hands-on, delicate process which ultimately produces an extremely fresh and aromatic apéritif.”

atōst minis
  • Citrus: California lemons and oranges, Colorado juniper and peach; light and fresh
  • Bloom: strawberry, candied orange, rose; succulent with rich texture 
  • Woods: whiskey-barrel-aged, vanilla, cherry, orange; aromatic, coconut, savory
  • Roots: ginger, lemon, anise; combine for an intense, spicy cocktail 

They also are less sweet & less bitter than most traditional aperitifs and cocktails, while being lower in alcohol (21%) than common distilled spirits. Expect the freshness and elegance of a glass of white wine and the boldness and complexity of a spirit-based cocktailThey are available in four distinct essences.

Cindy Pressman shared, “While the apéritif category is largely unknown in America, the qualities of our light & fresh spirits align with so many modern-day trends including the desire for lower proof options and farm-to-bottle ingredients.”

“Everything we created was centered around the mission to pour it over ice and enjoy without the need to mix a complicated cocktail,” Kyle explained, although he adds that Atōst can be taken with a splash of sparkling water or incorporated into mixed drinks.

The aperitif’s are available for purchase at their website (www.atost.co), which also has cocktail recipes.  Each 750 ml bottle is $35, with free shipping on 2 bottles or more and $50 for a sampler pack of all four.  If you are in the metro area, stop by their tasting room in Golden.

NOTE: Featured image courtesy 7Cellars.

SUPPORT COLORADO AND COLORADO CONNECTED WINE FOR THE HOLIDAYS

It’s always a good idea to support local businesses. And “buy local” has become a popular outcry in recent years. While it is most common in arts and crafts and especially in food, it also is relevant for beer, wine and spirits. And especially with the economic challenges caused by the pandemic and world events, it is even more important to support these small businesses. Since this is a wine column and I am based in Colorado, I am suggesting Colorado wine for the holidays this year. 

In case you haven’t noticed, the quality of Colorado wine has increased dramatically in recent years. Colorado has a burgeoning wine industry (over 170 businesses across the state) that is growing in national recognition. “Colorado wine is a fine choice for holiday meals,” said Doug Caskey, executive director of the Colorado Wine Industry Development Board (CWIDB)

Dug Caskey added, “After a quiet couple of years, one thing that has not slowed down is the growing quality of Colorado wines and our recognition as one of the top unique wine regions in the country. The Colorado wine industry is a hotbed of innovation and creativity, thanks to our dedicated grape growers and hard-working winemakers.” The Colorado wine industry also is driven to evolve to align with Colorado’s unpredictable weather. 

These achievements were amply on display in the recently announced 2022 Governor’s Collection, which was hosted by the CWIDB. A tasting panel selected of 19 highly respected wine professionals sat in judgment of 279 Colorado wines submitted from 38 wineries.

This year’s Governor’s Cup Collection features some returning albeit lesser-known varieties such as teroldogo and chambourcin, mixed with familiar favorites like syrah and tempranillo, and sprinkled with creative styles including sparkling and mead.

And, of course, think Colorado when looking for a holiday wine gift. Many wine shops in And, of course, think Colorado when looking for a holiday wine gift. Many wine shops in the state carry Colorado wine and many of the wineries have holiday gift offerings, whether individual bottles or special packages. 

A good place to start your search is at https://coloradowine.com//.  Many local wine shops also carry Colorado wine and many of the wineries have holiday offerings on their websites. 

The 12 winning Colorado wines that will comprise the 2022 Colorado Governor’s Cup Wine Collection are:

  • Aspen Peak Cellars (Bailey) – 2021 Pinot Gris, American 
  • Carboy Winery (Littleton) – 2019 Petit Verdot, Grand Valley AVA
  • Carboy Winery (Littleton) – 2020 Teroldego, Grand Valley AVA
  • Carboy Winery (Littleton) – 2019 Blanc LaLaLa (Sparkling Gruner Veltliner), Grand Valley AVA
  • Carlson Vineyards (Palisade) – 2021 Sweet Baby White Blend, American 
  • Mesa Park Vineyards (Palisade) – 2020 Equilibre Red Blend, Grand Valley AVA
  • The Peachfork (Palisade) – 2021 Chambourcin, Grand Valley AVA
  • Red Fox Cellars (Palisade) – Non-Vintage Nebbiolo, Grand Valley AVA
  • Slaymaker Cellars (Idaho Springs) – Traditional Wildflower Mead
  • The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey (Canon City) – 2019 Syrah, Colorado 
  • Vino Salida Wine Cellars (Poncha Springs) – 2017 Tempranillo, Grand Valley AVA
  • Whitewater Hill Vineyards (Grand Junction) – 2021 Dry Rose of St. Vincent, Grand Valley AVA

And the seven-year-old Carboy Winery won Best in Show on, for its 2020 Teroldego.

“The considerable growth in the past few years [locations in Denver, Littleton, Breckenrige and Palisade in five years] has been both challenging and rewarding. It is humbling to have three wines selected for the 2022 Governor’s Cup. The driving force behind the partnership between our production and vineyard management teams is to create wines that are balanced and approachable. Having had more than one wine selected this year is certainly a validation of that effort. The uptick in quality that has been achieved as of late by the Colorado winegrowing community is a remarkable achievement. It is an honor to be a part of this community. I am confident that we’ll be seeing a maintained output of premium wines by Colorado producers, as we collectively improve upon vineyard practices and production techniques. I am excited for what’s in store for future vintages.”

Another ideal choice, given its proximity in Cañon City, is The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey  about two hours south of Denver. The Abbey Winery has many options worth perusing, including the Syrah that is part of the Governor’s Cup Collection. In its more than 20 years of production, has won countless awards for its wines.

Their website is an especially good place to start. Check out the online shop for individual bottles and case and shipping discounts on most wines. Join the unique “Congregation” wine club or give a membership as a gift. The website also has numerous, inviting non-wine artistic and gourmet items available. 

Even better, take the drive down to visit their amazing gift shop. Sample some wine and food in the tasting room, then take some wine and other goodies home. It would make a fun holiday day trip. And the wine won’t disappoint. Head Winemaker Jeff Stultz is proud of the award-winning wines. “I’m also excited about our newer line of wines called As Above So Below”, he said. “They are accessibly priced at $16 and feature creative blends and a fun label”.

NOTE: Featured image courtesy Colorado Wine Industry Development Board.

ARGENTINA’S MALBEC AND CABERNET SAUVIGNON

While Argentina’s wine production is quite varied, Malbec has in recent years emerged as its signature grape and established a position among the U.S.’s most popular wines. 

A minor blending grape in Bordeaux, though important in the southwestern France region of Cahors, it experiences some sort of alchemy in the vineyards of Mendoza, Argentina’s most important wine region. 

The dramatic landscape of this high-altitude desert region at the foot of the Andes Mountains births many fine red wines, especially Malbec. Argentina’s malbec producers have settled into a comfort zone of affordable, easy-drinking reds that increasingly are crowd pleasers. Typically, you get up-front, round fruit and lush textures. As a bonus, many are made with organically grown grapes. Mendoza is the driest wine region in the world, which makes organic growing more amenable.

It helps that the wines are accessible and eminently drinkable. These wines hit the quality/value sweet spot. I will feature selection from each winery.

Domaine Bousquet, one the largest Argentinean wineries, stands out for its commitment to organically grown grapes throughout its portfolio. Its wines are made with minimal reliance on oak, enabling the fruit to shine through and are vegan. 

  • 2018 Gran Malbec ($25) loam, mineral, forest, touch of spice and savory notes
  • 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon ($13) half malbec with syrah and cabernet sauvignon 
  • 2018 “Gaia” Cabernet Franc ($20) herbal, toasty, spicy, also a cab

Coen, growers for many years, is now collaborating with highly regarded Italian winemaker, Atilio Pagli to produce wines from sustainable or organically grown grapes. Its “Classic” tier ($25) forms the foundation of production. If you are interested in getting a taste of the heights Argentinean Malbec can reach, my tasting included the 2019 Reserve Malbec ($45), a special production and much fuller bodied style with certified organic grapes, blue fruit, floral, baking-spice and anise notes.

Trapiche, one of Argentina’s largest and oldest (140 years) producers, offers a variety of tiers to showcase the abundance of Mendaoza. The “Broquel” tier is crafted with fruit from a variety of estate vineyards. The 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon “Selected Barrels” ($15) is soft, fresh, and friendly. The “Medalla” tier (around $20) was created for Trapiche’s 100th year and features 100% single variety wines from Mendoza’s prime growing areas. The “Gran Medalla” tier was developed for the 125th anniversary and uses select grapes from Trapiche’s finest vineyards. The 2019 Gran Medalla Malbec ($30) shows juicy, ripe berries, currant and herbs with fine tannins. 

Trivento, another large production winery, Trivento is owned by Chilean colossus Concha y Toro. Its 2020 Malbec Reserve ($12) provides easy drinking, straightforward berry, plum, with a slightly assertive finish.

Orfila, founded by Spanish immigrants in 1905, the Orfila family merged with the Argentina of Italy’s Gancia family in 2010. It is a smaller production winery but also emphasizes sustainable and organically farmed vineyards. 

  • 2019 Malbec Estate Selection ($15) 
  • 2020 Malbec Classic ($13) 
  • 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Selection ($15) 

NOTE: Featured image courtesy Domaine Bousquest.

TUSCANY IS MORE THAN CHIANTI BUT IT’S STILL MOSTLY SANGIOVESE

While Chianti is the best-known Tuscan wine in the U.S., a little attention reveals a wide variety of other fine wines from Italy’s best-known wine region. In central Tuscany where the Chianti geographic region extends roughly from just north of Florence south to Siena, there are other highly regarded denominations north of Florence and south of Siena. And then there is the “new frontier” of the Maremma in the western part of the region along the Tyrrhenian Sea coast. Let’s visit a few.

Most Tuscan wines, though, still use sangiovese as their foundation (usually at least 70%). One of Italy’s many indigenous grape varieties, sangiovese truly shines in Tuscany. Typically, its wines exhibit deep, bright cherry and other red fruit aromas and flavors with firm, dry structure, and earthy qualities. Complexity is revealed in forest notes, baking spice and hints of anise. It often is blended with other native varieties, though increasingly Bordeaux grapes are part of the mix.

Considering the quality available, the wines are exceptional values. Those labeled simply Chianti are good everyday wines. The Chianti region has seven production zones, of which Chianti Classico (the original Chianti production zone south of Florence) is generally considered to produce the best wines. Wines labeled Riserva usually are selections of the producer’s finest fruit and receive extended time maturing in barrel and bottle before release aging. Gran Selezione is the highest classification requiring 90% sangiovese, estate fruit, and even longer aging. 

2016 San Felice “Poggio Rosso” Gran Selezione ($70) juicy, toasty, oaky

2016 Tenuta Perano Riserva ($35) vibrant, intense, spicy

2017 Tenuta di Arceno “Strada al Sasso” Gran Selezione ($55) rich, savory, vanilla

Chianti Rufina, which lies east of Florence, generally is considered to be the best zone after Chianti Classico. Its higher elevation vineyards typically produce brighter toned fruit. The wines below are 100% sangiovese.

2016 Selvapiana “Vigneto Bucerchiale” ($36), exuberant, woodsy, licorice, elegant

2016 Selvapiana “Erchi” ($50) bright, foresty, graceful, licorice

Carmignano, west of Florence, is unique in that its wines must include at least 50% sangiovese and 10-20% cabernet sauvignon or cabernet franc plus other local grapes. 

2017 Villa di Capezzana ($30) 80% sangiovese/20% cabernet sauvignon, powerful, intense, tannic

Montepulciano, southeast of Siena, is classic Tuscan hill town whose environs produce fine sangiovese (here known as prugnolo gentile, at least 70%). Home to Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, its name reflects its popularity with royalty over the centuries. Though not as well-known as Chianti, it is equally worth your attention.  Generally, Vino Nobile presents refreshing, vibrant fruit with somewhat gentler tannins.

2018 Poliziano ($30) bright, earthy, polished 

Among wine intenditori (Italian for connoisseurs), Brunello di Montalcino is even more prized than Chianti Classico. They also are more expensive, with some bottles costing several hundred dollars. Named for wines made 100% from the local sangiovese clone (sangiovese grosso, historically referred to as brunello) grown around the village of Montalcino, Montepulciano’s neighbor to the west. These are some of the most concentrated, muscular, long-lived expressions of sangiovese. Typically 100% sangiovese, Brunello almost mandates several years of development before drinking. 

2016 Castelgiocondo ($71) spice, tobacco, dense 

2016 Campogiovanni ($65) intense but accessible

A small, little-known zone in the Tuscan Maremma region, Montecucco extends from the western border of Montalcino. The area is a leader in sustainable viticulture. Most grapes (predominantly sangiovese) are certified organic. 

2016 Poggio Stenti “Pian di Staffa” Riserva ($52) 100% sangiovese, dense, dusty, lush, pleasantly dry

One of the most notable new Maremma denominations is Morellino di Scansano at the south end of the area. The wines must be from vineyards around the village of Scansano and at least 85% sangiovese (known as morellino locally) 15% ciliegiolo (common in central Italy). 

2019 Lohsa ($16) ripe, herbaceous, lush 

For a region that is grounded in so much history and tradition, Tuscany also has become a center of innovation over the last several decades. Enter the “Super Tuscans” (not an official designation). It was in Chianti in the 1970s where new wines emerged as a reaction to what some considered too rigid traditional regulations for making Chianti wine and the declining quality of much Chianti at the time. These wines, now designated Toscana IGT, are mostly defined by the use of nonindigenous grapes, particularly cabernet sauvignon, merlot or syrah. Many of these wines are expensive and considered among the best wines Italy has to offer. 

2019 Lucente ($30) second wine of Luce, the flagship of the Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi/Robert Mondavi partnership, and is produced from the same vineyards in Montalcino. A 50% sangiovese/50% merlot blend, it is a nicely integrated, juicy, sleek, with tobacco and round finish. 

Toscana IGT has become increasingly associated with Maremma, especially the Bolgheri zone along the western coast where single variety wines and French/Italian blends, are more common, and more modern winemaking techniques.

2017 San Felice “Bell’ Aja” Bolgheri Superiore ($60) merlot/cabernet sauvignon, concentrated, oaky, sleek

NOTE: Featured image courtesy of Tenuta Luce