Author: Rich

LOOK TO GERMANY AND FRANCE FOR WHITE WINE ALTERNATIVES

For the last installment in my series of columns on white wines to cool off this hot summer, I am excited to be reviewing wine from Germany and Alsace. These regions source my favorite white grapes, specifically riesling and gewürztraminer, but also pinot gris and pinot blanc.

From my recent tasting, I present several good entry-level wines that are notable for their fresh fruit, mineral or spice character, and refreshing acidity, and for being mostly dry and low alcohol.

The Mosel River Valley is the most picturesque and romantic of all German wine regions and the Fritz Haag winery and vineyards is located in Brauneberg in the heart of the central Mosel, considered by many the prime source for great German Riesling.

These 2014 Rieslings are fantastic values at $22. The “Trocken” is dry as its name indicates, with bright green apple and peach and a sense of its reddish slate origins. The Mosel “Qualitatswein” reveals hints of sweetness with fresh peach, citrus and fine slate. Both are rather intense but drink with finesse.

Great wine also is made along the Ruwer River, a tributary of the Mosel, south of the city of Trier. Here, the von Schubert family has produced great wines under the name Maximin Grünhauser since the late nineteenth century.

The 2014 estate Rieslings also are fine values at $22 and are light and elegant but full flavored. The “Feinherb” is juicy and a smooth texture mineral grip spice honey and apple off dry savory and complex. The “Trocken” is bright and fresh, solidly structured with steely, crisp apple and pear savory notes.

In the nearby Rheingau, the Robert Weil estate’s Wilhelm Weil farms the family’s vineyards, which have been around since 1875, organically. At the risk of sounding like a broken record, the 2014 Rieslings are great values delivering aromatic, intense and bracing drinks at just $20.

The “Trocken” offers abundant pome, citrus, pear and stone fruits, with power and a sense of richness, accented with steely and stony impressions, finishing with a touch of spice. The “Tradition” is slightly sweet, with tangy, brisk lemon and peach, and a steely finish.

Robert Weil also supplied the two exceptions to this column’s mostly dry criteria. They are more expensive but their extra ripeness and intensity justify the splurge. The 2013 Tradition Kabinett ($30) wraps stony, mineral qualities around slightly sweet, luscious peach, lemon and apple. The 2013 Tradition Spätlese ($40) impresses with its aromatics and lively but creamy texture, while presenting deep, honeyed fruit.

The Pfalz is Germany’s second largest wine region and a leading proponent of dry Riesling. Villa Wolf, an estate dating to 1750s, has produced two fine 2014 wines for a modest $12. The Dry Riesling sports steely green citrus and the (surprise) Gewürztraminer offers a lovely peach and citrus with a gulpable freshness.

Just across the border between Germany and France, the Alsace region also is revered for its Rieslings. Typically the wines carry more weight but the aromatics and acidity are just as bracing. The 2013 Hugel Riesling “Hugel” ($22) is a fine example. Founded in 1639, this still family owned company rich and ripe white fruits dry citrus fruit

But Alsace excels with other grapes, too. Like the very aromatic 2013 Trimbach Gewürztraminer ($24) and its bright fruit, full-body, concentrated orange and spicy finish. I also enjoyed the 2013 Gustave Lorentz Pinot Blanc Reserve ($20) for its citrusy freshness and the 2014 Cave de Cleebourg Pinot Gris “Prestige” ($15), a fairly full-bodied wine with nice pear and peach and a rich texture.

Look to Germany and France for White Wine Alternatives

For the last installment in my series of columns on white wines to cool off this hot summer, I am excited to be reviewing wine from Germany and Alsace. These regions source my favorite white grapes, specifically riesling and gewürztraminer, but also pinot gris and pinot blanc.

From my recent tasting, I present several good entry-level wines that are notable for their fresh fruit, mineral or spice character, and refreshing acidity.

2014 Maximin Grünhauser

Carl von Schubert produces beautifully light and clear, highly delicate Rieslings from the Ruwer. Riesling cannot taste finer than here. finesse and transparency

Riesling Feinherb, ($22)

[87] pure and elegant and balanced with juicy fruit and a smooth texture but also a nice mineral grip and salinity in the long finish.

(90) exotic spice here with honey and apple off dry and juicy but also savory and complex, finishing on a lingering, slightly bitter note.

Riesling Trocken ($22)

[87] bright and fresh light, round and dry elegance and finesse, and nicely structured finish with nutty flavors. The delicate acidity is stimulatingly fresh.

(85) Ripe apple and baked pear are matched to savory notes

(88) earthy and bitter minerals lend a savory tone to the apple and lime- dry crisp and sheer but finishes bold with a steely, cool resonance

2014 Fritz Haag

bright, clear, elegant and finesse stunning, refined and terroir-driven wines

For Fritz Haag in nearby Brauneberg in the heart of the central Mosel, the tradition goes back to 1605. Also an accomplished producer of sweet Rieslings, even the entry level 2013 Trocken ($22) transmits a sense of the reddish slate soil under pinning the bright green apple and honeydew.

Riesling Trocken ($22)

[88] clear and intense bouquet of ripe apples intermixed with lovely slate aromas Full-bodied, round and elegant, juicy Riesling with tropical fruit and ripe peach aromas; well balanced Bottled stunningly intense and aromatic

(87) Notes of honeysuckle and almond to the citrus and ripe apple and pineapple crisp acidity.

(91) Cool, mineral elegance and pristine tangerine and quince zesty, dry and light bodied with a lemony finish

Mosel Riesling QbA ($22)

[90] lovely, clear, bright, fresh and delicate with nice white stone fruit and fine slate, round, light and fruity, frisky and filigreed Riesling of great finesse.

(86) Peach and ripe apple, with firm acidity and notes of dried herb. Finishes with hints of pineapple and sage.

(91) a touch of honey-lemon sweetness zesty, citrus, lip smackingly fresh, green herb and lime notes

Robert Weil Rheingau

Wilhelm Weil, organic farming

Across the Rhein River north of Rheinhssen, the Rheingau, is one of the most distinguished wine regions of the world. And while that reputation has been built on the sweeter wines, today many fine trocken are being made – like these two from Robert Weil. The 2013 Riesling Trocken ($20) delivers a lot of wine for the money. Following pure, intense aromas of nectarine and gooseberry, an initial steely, minerally impression in the mouth is joined by juicy and a touch spicy flavors.

2014 Trocken ($20)

[87] clear, precise and aromatic white peach, intense and racy, with power and juiciness, mineral

(88) Juicy and fresh, citrus, pear and apple, hints of pepper and dried sage show on the crisp, minerally finish

(90) Steel and stones, lemon and grapefruit, medium bodied but texturally quite rich,

2014 Tradition ($20)

[90] a lovely, clear, precise and aromatic, white fruits, piquant and racy, slightly sweet great finesse and elegance, low alcohol is below 11%

(89) a bit tight and closed off, brisk off-dry fresh, tart lemon and peach flavors, mineral with a honed, steely finish

2013 Tradition Kabinett ($30)

[89+] 2014 intense and stony, quite ripe and sweet, concentrated, almost Spätlese and quite rich

(89) Well-structured, lemon and apple, accented by hints of cream, crisp and pure, with a zesty finish

(92) Whispers of saffron and pollen lend mineral intensity to succulent yellow peach and cherry notes juicy revitalizing semisweet

2013 Tradition Spätlese ($40)

[87+] 2014 a selection from the three hillside crus and the Wasseros; intense fruit and slate, round and sweet, elegant, very accessible with a nice grip and salinity in the finish

(91) Direct and fresh, with delicate apple and lemon, hints of honey and allspice, lively and elegant, creamy texture.

(94) profoundly aromatic, sprightly-sweet, opulent floral perfume of rose petals and orange blossoms, remarkably elegant, crisp honeydew and peach flavors zesty

2014 Villa Wolf Pfalz

Just to the south of the Rheinhessen, the Pfalz is Germany’s second largest wine region. Growers here have been proclaiming the greatness of dry Riesling more than any other German region. In my tasting, the Pfalz was represented by Villa Wolf, an estate dating to 1753.

Riesling Dry ($12)

(86) relaxed, apple and pear, zesty spiciness, mint and citrus notes

(87) savory, nutty, slightly smoky fresh tangerine crisp, cutting acidity elegance

2014 Gewürztraminer ($12)

(88) invigorating freshness not complex or concentrated, floral exuberance and crisp peach and pear, quaffable

Alsace

Alsace wines have the weight, aromatics and acidity to accentuate the unique character of just about any fermented food.

Another fun choice would be crisp, dry Alsatian versions of these grapes, like these from Hugel, a family owned company since 1639! The 2013 Riesling ($12) is aromatic and refreshing; the 2012 Pinot Gris “Classic” ($24) is a special selection revealing impressive weight and enticing nutty qualities. Also, check out the spicy lychee of the 2012 Gewürztraminer ($24) and the 2014 “Gentil,” a delicate but aromatic blend.

2013 Hugel Riesling “Hugel” ($22)

pleasing sourness of bracing acidity but fairly rich and ripe

[86] white fruits some nutty lively, bright and clean Pure, racy, bone dry and slightly salty good structure, and grip and refreshing citris fruit

(90) fresh, harmonious, floral overtone mix of nectarine, chalky mineral, orange and pink grapefruit zesty

2013 Trimbach Gewürztraminer ($24)

very aromatic, full-bodied and slightly spicy

[89] bright fruit quite spicy, herbal and floral, lemon, elegant, piquant and mineral mouthwatering salinity and fruitiness, really ripe, fresh and dry well balanced

(90) Linear and finely knit, fresh acidity cantaloupe, nectarine and ginger, minerality in the finish, elegant.

(91) creamy notes of rose, orange and mandarin oil, concentrated, punchy, focuses on taste rather than aroma, rounded and rich, immensely concentrated, structured.

2013 Gustave Lorentz Pinot Blanc Reserve ($20) <NR>

fresh, citrusy unoaked

(84) 2011 Snappy acidity, smoke, melon, kumquat and slivered almond

2014 Cave de Cleebourg Pinot Gris Prestige ($15)

full-bodied, slightly smoky, richly-textured with heady honey and stone fruit aromas

(88) Fresh and creamy, snappy acidity floral, peach, ground spice and smoke notes Tangy citrus and salted almond accents

(84) 2013 soft, rounded and smooth, fresh acidity, ripe pear and quince

2015 Costieres de Pomerols Picpoul de Pinet HB ($10) co-op of 450 growers

[89] lots of salty minerality, bitter citrus and hints of rose petal, juicy, medium-bodied clean and refreshing

(87) 2014 supple texture, apple, citrus and peach almond, fig and savory, spicy finish

<88> fresh and lively, ruby-red grapefruit and zesty acidity

Domaine Collin Cremant de Limoux Brut Cuvee Tradition ($16) <NR>

CRISP, FRESH MEDITERRANEAN WHITES PERFECT FOR SUMMER

As hot as it’s been this summer one would be forgiven for thinking we somehow have been transported to the Mediterranean. Of course, instead of beautiful ocean views, we have beautiful mountain views. But we still can enjoy some crisp, refreshing white wines from Mediterranean countries.

Italy, Spain and Portugal are all countries best known for their reds but their whites can be ideal choices for summer. While there are important differences, they all share enticing aromatic and occasionally mineral notes but mostly a welcome freshness and vibrancy of fruit. With a couple of notable exceptions, these are light, dry wines to sip, gulp and simply enjoy. And they come with the added intrigue of mostly be made from indigenous grapes.

Although Italy’s Pinot Grigio is a clone of France’s Pinot Gris, it is widely planted throughout northeastern Italy and is Italy’s best-known “Bianco.” And many of the best come from the Alto Adige (also called Südtirol in German or South Tyrol in English) near the Dolomiti Mountains nestled between Switzerland and Austria. Importantly, the wines recommended here are not your average light, fruity quaffers.

My favorite was the 2013 Tramin “Unterebner” ($24), a surprisingly complex single vineyard wine of lemon, cashew and caramel, amazing quality from this cooperative of growers. Nearly as good were the 2014 Terlan ($24) – fresh tangerine and pear from a 120 year old producer and the 2015 Erste+Neue ($19) – crisp citrus and peach from one of the oldest cooperatives in the region.

I also enjoyed the 2015 Alois Lageder “Porer” ($25) for stone fruit and mineral notes. The citrusy 2015 Castelfeder “Luna Nuda” ($15) is a solid everyday choice.

And Italy has interesting Bianco beyond Pinot Grigio. Also from Alto Adige, try the 2014 Alois Lageder Gewürztraminer ($25) with lychee, apricot and viscous texture. The 2015 Castelfeder “Vom Stein” Pinot Bianco ($17) impresses with lush green apple and lime.

And here are three very fine wines from central Italy. Abruzzo: stony, plummy 2015 Villa Gemma Colline Teatine (trebbiano grape, $20); Umbria: honeyed peach and pear of 2014 Terre de la Custodia “Grechetto Colli Martani” ($20); Lazio: the creamy, nutty green citrus and caramel of 2012 Falesco “Ferentano” (roscetto grape, $25) from the producer that hs put this relatively unknown region on the wine map.

In Spain, the albariño of Rías Baixas (near the northwestern, Galician coast) has gained the most prestige. My favorite was the 2014 Sin Palabras “Castrovaldés” ($20) from Castro Brey for its lemon, mineral and suggestion of sea breeze.

Close behind was the 2014 Terras Gauda “O Rosal” ($24), for lively citrus, orange and peach deepened with an earthy touch. The winery’s 2014 Abadía de San Campio ($20) pleases with tropical fruit and a nice round texture. The 2014 Pablo Padin “Segrel” ($14) is a good introduction to the grape.

From the Rioja, the 2015 CVNE “Monopole” ($13) is produced using local viura, which, like its namesake macabeo in Penedes, is noted for its aromatics and acidity, in this case honey, lemon, apple and a touch of quinine. Still family-owned, five generations CVNE has been making wine since 1879 and Monopole for 100 years.

Across the border from Rias Baixas, the “green wine” of Portugal’s Vinho Verde region traditionally has received the most buzz among those in the wine industry. But the savvy consumer also should look to the whites of the Alentejo region southeast of Lisbon.

Herdade do Esporão, a leading Portuguese family winery since 1267 in the forefront of introducing Portuguese whites to the modern world, has fashioned several excellent values:

2014 “Duas Castas” 2 ($13), gouveio and antão vaz grapes yield a fruity, enticingly aromatic wine with bracing acidity;

2015 Verdelho V ($16) for tangy green citrus and good concentration;

2014 “Monte Velho” ($10) blends antão vaz, roupeiro and perrum for creamy cashew, green citrus and a grassy note;

2013 “Alandra” ($7), antão vaz, arinto and perrum deliver nutty, creamy apple and lime.

[Featured Image Courtesy of International Riesling Foundation]

SAUVIGNON BLANC PROVIDES FRESHING DRINKING FOR WARMER WEATHER

With the blistering weather, it’s natural for wine drinkers to think about cooling off with a refreshing white wine. While most U.S. consumers still turn first to Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc is an ideal alternative.

It has a noble heritage as a parent of cabernet sauvignon. It is responsible for the Loire Valley wines of Sancerre and Pouilly Fume and, with semillon, white Bordeaux. The grape also has found hospitable surroundings in New Zealand, South Africa, Australia, and Chile. California, too, is excelling.

Sauvignon Blanc’s flavor profile comes in several styles. Generally expect brisk green citrus (lime, gooseberry) and a distinctive herbaceousness. Many also display peach, tropical fruits and melon. It’s typically quite aromatic, with refreshing acidity. These qualities make it an exceptional accompaniment to food.

Sauvignon Blanc also is a relative good value. And the best value of my tasting was the 2015 Rodney Strong “Charlotte’s Home Vineyard” ($17). Its crisp citrus core joined juicy peach and melon notes.

Other good values: 2015 Liberated North Coast ($17) – strong green citrus and lemongrass notes; 2015 J. Lohr “Flume Crossing” ($14) – more green citrus, fresh but slightly sweet; 2015 Decoy Sonoma County ($20) – tropical fruits precede a touch of hay in a crisp a firm but soft style.

One of the most reliable sources of good value Sauvignon Blanc is the Dry Creek Vineyard. Its 2015 Dry Creek Valley ($18) opens with tropical fruit followed by spicy herbal notes. The entry level 2015 “Fume Blanc” Sonoma County ($14) is energetic with pleasing hints of tonic water. And the 2014 “Taylor’s Vineyard” Musqué Clone ($18) is quite aromatic with spicy herb and surprising viscosity.

For just a few bucks more, I found two fine examples from Sonoma’s Russian River Valley, usually better known fro Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The 2015 Martin Ray ($20) neatly blends citrus and tropical fruits. The 2015 Davis Bynum “Virginia’s Block-Jane’s Vineyard” ($25) offers brisk grapefruit with intriguing creamy and spicy tones. And the 2015 Cuvaison “Solitaire” ($24) from Napa Valley deftly balanced citrus and green herb.

I was even more surprised with a good showing from two Santa Barbara samples: 2014 Presqu’ile Santa Maria Valley ($22) with its juicy lime and savory herbs and 2015 Star Lane Happy Canyon ($22) for a nice mix of bready and lively apple to accent citrus.

And in a little diversion to the Northwest, the 2014 J. Christopher Willamette Valley ($20) was colored green with apple and gooseberry and the 2014 Cadaretta “SBS” Columbia Valley ($23) delivered nice round peach and melon benefitting from 20% Semillon.

Finally two of the three most expensive wines delivered on their price premium with extra measures of complexity and flavor. The 2015 Duckhorn Napa Valley ($30) delivered a tight but rich texture and a creamy, licorice infused finish. The 2014 J. Christopher Uber-Sauvignon “Croft Vineyard” ($35) was intensely aromatic with gooseberry and herbal qualities delivered with confident impact.

[Featured Image Courtesy of Wine Folly, http://winefolly.com]

THINK PINK FOR SUMMER’S WINE DRINK

DRY pink wines finally seem to be gaining appreciation in this country. Of course, sweet “blush” wines have been popular for years. Europeans, on the other hand, have known for a long time the joy of drinking a good dry pink wine. The most common term is Rosé (French) but you may also see Rosato (Italian) and Rosado (Spanish).

Expect bright, fresh fruit aromas and flavors of strawberry, cherry, raspberry, or cranberry. Some even exhibit a red wine level of intensity, body and complexity. But the best always display fresh fruit aromas and flavors that approximate the profile of their red siblings but drink more like white wines. Because of their vibrant freshness and lively fruit, pinks are almost always best drunk young, so look for the most recent vintages available.

There are essentially three ways to make a pink wine. The most common method is to crush red grapes and leave the juice in contact with the grape skins (the source of a wine’s color) only briefly. The second technique is a process called “saignée” in which a certain amount of juice is “bled off” shortly after red grapes are crushed. The third approach involves blending white and red wines to the desired effect.

Most wine producing countries now have gotten into the act with a wide variety of grapes.

Among Rosé devotees, France is the prime source. There is a dizzying array of French Rosés from all over the country but most notably the south – places like Provence, Languedoc-Roussillon, Bandol, Cotes-du-Rhone, and Tavel. Rosé from Provence in particular offers consistent quality at reasonable prices.

Rosé from Provence in particular offers consistent quality at reasonable prices. Generally blends dominated by grenache supplemented with syrah and cinsault, my favorite in the tasting was the organically grown 2015 Chateau Sainte Marguerite “Symphony” (40% grenache, 40% cinsault, 20% syrah, $29), followed closely by the 2015 Domaine Saint Aix “AIX” (60% grenache, 20% syrah 15% cinsault, 5% carignan, $19) and 2015 Maison Belle Claire (55% grenache, 25% syrah, 20% cinsault, $15).

Other good choices from France included the 2015 Chateau d’Oupia Minervois (syrah, grenache and cinsault, $17) and the 2014 Saget La Perrière “La Petite Perrière” Loire Valley (100% pinot noir, $14). The best of the bunch, though, was the 2013 Domaine de la Mordoree “la Dame Rousse” (50% grenache, 30% syrah, 20% cinsault, $20). This Cotes-du-Rhone offered focused fruit, balanced with unique richness and complexity.

France’s neighbors also are reliable sources. Here’s a line up of my favorites:

Spain:

2015 Hacienda de Arinzano Rosé de Tempranillo ($20): fresh cherry and raspberry

2015 Vina Real Rioja (85% viura [white grape] and 15% tempranillo, $14): citrus and peach

2015 Cune (CVNE) (100% tempranillo, $14): fresh and tasty strawberry and raspberry

Italy:

2015 Falesco “Vitano” Umbria (30% sangiovese, 30% merlot, 30% cabernet sauvignon, 10% aleatico, $12): juicy strawberries, vibrant cranberry

Portugal:

2015 La Defesa (70% aragonez [Portuguese version of tempranillo] and 30% syrah, $13): raspberries, cherry, watermelon, spice and earth

Other good choices (from places you might not have expected!):

2014 Galil Mountain Galilee (a unique combination of 74% sangiovese, 23% pinot noir, 3% grenache, $12): tangy cherry and raspberry, creamy texture

2015 Villa Wolf Pinot Noir Rosé (from Germany’s Pfalz, $12): spicy cherry and raspberry

2015 Los Vascos Chile (90% cabernet sauvignon, 10% syrah, $14): lovely, creamy cherry, nicely tart

I also have been pleased to find improved quality from California and Oregon:

More good Grenache Rosé:

2015 J. Lohr “Gesture” Paso Robles ($18): juicy, hint of sweetness

2015 Halter Ranch Paso Robles (67% Grenache, 22% Picpoul Blanc, 8% Mourvèdre and 3% Syrah, $21): zesty, tangy raspberry

For you Pinot Noir lovers, these are really satisfying :

2015 Ponzi Willamette Valley ($22): pure, lightly tart cherry and spice

2015 Stoller Dundee Hills ($25): crisp pomegranate and light spice

2015 Willamette Valley Vineyards ($24): earthy, intense spicy cherry

2015 Martin Ray Russian River Valley ($20) savory, creamy plum

2015 Cuvaison “Vin Gris” Napa Valley ($20): firm strawberry and citrus

2014 Balletto Russian River Valley ($18): delightfully fresh citrus and strwberry

And the zinfandel-based 2015 Head High (49% zinfandel, 44% syrah, 4% grenache, 3% tempranillo, $18) offers spicy red berries with a surprisingly creamy texture.

Finally, you can’t beat some fine bubbly during the hot weather:

Ferrari Rosé Trento (pinot nero and chardonnay, $36) vibrant, rich cherry, strawberry

Lucien Albrecht Cremant d’Alsace Brut Rosé (100% pinot noir, $22) strawberry and raspberry with a saline note

Bisol Desiderio “Jeio” Cuvee Rosé (merlot and pinot nero, $17) light, fresh and crisp

And two 100% pinot noir sparkling splurges worth their high cost:

2012 Sea Smoke “Sea Spray” L.D. Blanc de Noirs Santa Lucia Highlands ($80): complex and full, yet elegant

Laurent-Perrier Champagne “Cuvee Rosé” Brut ($99): intense, luxurious and structured, yet drinks with finesse

[Featured Image courtesy of Provence Wine Council]

Whether you realize it or not most wines you drink are blends of multiple grapes from different vineyards, even the ones varietally labeled. And more and more, wineries are featuring wines specifically as blends.

Last November, the consumer survey company, Nielsen identified a growing trend toward more red wine blends, even calling red blends “currently the craft beer of the wine category.” The report also stated “more than 40% of the new entries in 2014 were blends, with more than three quarters of these being reds. No other wine type has even come close to the same amount of new offerings to market.”

For many, the Bordeaux formula of blending various percentages of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec, and petit verdot is the template. For others, the “Super Tuscans” of Italy are the benchmark, though usually substituting zinfandel for sangiovese. Still others take southern France as their inspiration, blending grapes like syrah, grenache, mourvedre, and petite sirah. Finally, some mix and match various grapes to achieve a desired style.

Try any of the wines below (reviewed roughly in order of preference within each category) and you will taste the synergy winemakers can achieve in creating a product that embodies the classic sentiment of the whole being greater than the sum of its parts.

One of the best wines of my tasting, the Bordeaux-style 2012 Franciscan “Magnificat” ($55), is 73% cabernet sauvignon, 19% merlot, 3% petit verdot, 3% malbec and 2% cabernet franc. Solid structure and luscious currant and plum are accented with spice, licorice and firm tannins. Nearly as good, the 2012 Dry Creek Vineyard “The Mariner” ($45) – 56% cabernet sauvignon, 25% merlot, 8% petit verdot, 8% malbec and 3% cabernet franc – impresses for its framing of lush dark fruits, dried herbs and spice.

Two other worthy choices: 2012 Leviathan ($48) – 45% cabernet sauvignon, 25% cabernet franc, 16% merlot and 14% syrah – dense, sweet berries, creamy, cedary notes, smooth texture but tannic backbone; 2013 Taken Napa Valley Red Wine ($30) – 60% cabernet sauvignon and 40% merlot – easy drinking with dark fruits, roasted notes and a refreshing finish

And then there is J. Lohr, which takes the exploration of Bordeaux blends so seriously their “Cuvée Series” (2012, $50) explores three of the main regions of Bordeaux.

• Cuvée POM. Imitating Pomerol – 78% merlot, 14% malbec, 5% cabernet franc, and 3% cabernet sauvignon present powerful tannin and woodsy elements, accented with strong dark fruits
• Cuvée PAU. fashioned after Pauillac – 76% cabernet sauvignon, 10% malbec, 8% merlot, 5% petit verdot, and 1% cabernet franc result in jammy plum and currant, wrapped in forest notes with a touch of tobacco and smooth tannins
• Cuvée ST. E. taking Saint-Émilion as its model – 55% cabernet franc, 34% merlot, 8% malbec, and 3% cabernet sauvignon – rich black fruits and smoky, dusty oak with earthy notes and a suggestion of pencil lead; finishes with strong but disciplined tannins

While J. Lohr’s Cuvee series uses Bordeaux as its reference, Duckhorn Winery’s Paraduxx project for the most part emulates Super Tuscans, with zinfandel standing in for sangiovese.

• 2013 Paraduxx Napa Valley ($48) – 73% cabernet sauvignon, 13% merlot, 10% zinfandel, 4% petit verdot – strong tobacco and mint notes and solid tannins
• 2012 Atlas Peak ($80) – 65% cabernet sauvignon, 35% zinfandel – firm structure from cab complimented with bright zin berry fruit finishing with a touch of spice
• 2012 Paraduxx Howell Mountain ($80) – 60% zinfandel, 40% cabernet sauvignon – dense red fruits with strong mouthfeel and strong tannic finish
• 2012 Rector Creek Vineyard ($80) – 70% zinfandel, 30% cabernet sauvignon – really shows lively, brambly zin fruit with a complex, focused structure
• 2012 “X²”  ($95) – 90% cabernet sauvignon, 10% zinfandel – pronounced “X squared,” its intense, complex, barrel selection

Two other worthy choices: 2012 Cuttings ($50) – mostly cabernet sauvignon with the rest petite sirah and zinfandel – very ripe fruit with peppery spice and round texture; 2013 Field Stone “Convivio” ($16) – 74% merlot, 19% sangiovese, 5% malbec, 2% cabernet sauvignon – noticeable wood, fresh fruit, firm tannins.

Other good examples that don’t necessarily follow any pattern:

2013 Edmeades “Edmeades’ Folly” ($26) – 47% zinfandel, 23% syrah, 15% merlot, 15% petit sirah – from Mendocino, nice sleek sensation burst with juicy berries and good grip

2013 Beast “Wildebeest” ($25) – 59% syrah, 14% cabernet sauvignon, 11% cabernet franc, 8% malbec 7% Grenache, 1% merlot – bright fruit, lively texture, easy drinking

2013 Conundrum ($25) – mostly zinfandel, with petite sirah, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot – sweet red fruits, mint, light tannins

2013 Decoy Red Wine Sonoma County ($25) – 25% merlot, 20% cabernet sauvignon, 15% zinfandel, 15% cabernet franc, 11% petit sirah, 9% petit verdot, and 5% malbec – dark fruits, forest notes, firm impact, clean finish

2013 Taken “Complicated” ($20) – mostly grenache and syrah and a bit of carignan – ripe, juicy berries, touch of pepper, black licorice, smooth texture

2013 Hess Select “Treo” Winemaker’s Red Blend ($19) – 33% petit sirah, 26% syrah, 22% zinfandel, 25% cabernet franc, 16% merlot – nice plum, savory notes, good body, fresh finish

Nonvintage Q & A Red Wine ($15) – merlot and cabernet sauvignon, with ruby cabernet, and petit sirah – opens with pepper and anise, nice spicy zin fruit

2014 Oak Grove “Winemaker’s Red” Family Reserve ($9) – 50% zinfandel, 35% cabernet sauvignon, 15% petite sirah – pie-like plum fruit, soft and juicy, lightly spicy finish

WINEMAKER VISITS OFFER BENEFITS OF FIRST HAND ACCESS

For a wine devotee, Colorado is a blessed place. We have particularly savvy wine consumers and good distribution of a wide variety of wines. Thus, we are graced with countless visits from wineries eager to tap into our sophisticated market.

One of the more enjoyable aspects of being a wine writer is the opportunity to meet and taste with winery personnel and winemakers. Though, I usually don’t write about these visits because of the loss of objectivity given the circumstances.

Occasionally, this is balanced by the knowledge and perspective gained meeting these creative, dedicated individuals. At three recent visits, I tasted wines that I would have recommended under any circumstances.

One such visit was with Theresa Heredia, winemaker at Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery. Founded in 1982, the winery has grown in acclaim for its artisan Russian River Valley Chardonnay’s and Pinot Noirs.

Now Theresa, who joined the winery in 2012 from Joseph Phelps’ Freestone Vineyards, carries on the tradition. She told me she prefers wines with fresh fruit, natural acidity, structure, and earthiness that reflect site specificity.

She feels her emphasis on picking at lower sugar levels, whole cluster fermentation, extended maceration, and judicious use of oak, including fermentation in large puncheons, yield wines that emphasize primary fruit characteristics but develop more interesting and complex, savory qualities.

And it showed in the wines I tasted: impressive single vineyard Pinots from Bacigalupi and Hallberg vineyards and a Chardonnay from Rochioli, as well as eminently drinkable Russian River Valley designated wines.

My other visits of note were from Italians. Talking with Alfredo Falvo it became clear Masseria LiVeli in Puglia is a labor of love for the Falvo family. Alfredo’s father, Alberto built Avignonesi Winery in Montepulciano, Tuscany into a worldwide force while the family owned it from 1974 to 2009. Now, the family is solely focused on LiVeli.

Alfredo shared the interesting history of this property as a “masseria.” The Salento area of Puglia is fascinating for the concentration of these ancient land estates having their roots in the period of the Norman conquest of the South.

And I find it really cool (that’s a technical wine term) that Li Veli focuses its production on traditional varieties. I enjoyed white wines from fiano and verdeca and red wines from negroamoro (Salice Salentino) and primitivo.

Finally, I visited with Giorgia Casadio of Villa Trasqua, named for the high plateau in the Castellina sub-region of Chianti Classico, just north of Siena. Giorgia explained that Villa Trasqua is new to the U.S. and based on my experience these sangiovese-based, mostly organic wines are well worth you seeking out.

Of course, Villa Trasqua produces estate Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Riserva, including a remarkable single vineyard Riserva, “Nerento.” As Giorgia pointed out, I found Villa Trasqua’s wines to balance deftly the traditional savory, high acid Tuscan style with more modern upfront fruit.

But their winemaker, Franco Bernabei, one of the most respected in Italy, also fashions fine “Super Tuscan wines. In addition to the Chiantis, I enjoyed the entry level Traluna but was really impressed with the 2008 Trasgaia, made of 50% sangiovese, 40% cabernet sauvignon and 10% cabernet franc.

I came away from each of these winery visits with a better understanding of the winemaking craft, as well as a better appreciation for the challenges and satisfactions of making world-class wine.

NEW CHARDONNAY NEW RELEASES SHOW BETTER BALANCE

Chardonnay has had something like a 35-year run as America’s favorite white wine. I suspect its main attraction is that good wine is available in many styles and at many price levels.

With French Burgundy (namely the wines of the Cote d’Or) as the benchmark, most quality minded California producers have employed traditional Burgundian practices of barrel fermentation, malolactic fermentation (“malo” converts sharper malic acid to richer lactic acid) and barrel aging.

In the 80’s and 90’s, exaggerated use of those techniques, especially excessive use of new oak, became fashionable among many of those wineries. The resulting wines did gain popularity but eventually there was a backlash as consumers sought better balanced wines.

Most producers now use oak judiciously, to provide seasoning not dominate the wine’s character. Many still employ full malo to for texture and richness but many use only partial malo. Increasing numbers emulate France’s other Burgundy region, Chablis by limiting new oak or even eschewing oak or malo altogether. The intent is to allow more of the pure, fresh fruit to shine through. At the risk of oversimplification, I find it useful to think of Chardonnay in the context of these two primary styles.

Wines in the Cote d’Or Style are rich, lush and creamy, with toast or vanilla. The grape’s natural citrus fruit gives way to tropical, pear, or peach and sometimes melon or fig. The wines below use significant amounts of oak but they do so to great effect, deftly walking the line between richness and freshness.

If there is one winery and one wine most responsible for Chardonnay’s popularity in this country, it is Kendall-Jackson and the Vintner’s Reserve, which was introduced in 1982. The 2014 ($17) continues the tradition, while KJ has expanded its portfolio to include wines at a variety of price points and from a variety of regions. The 2013 Grand Reserve ($22) shows more richness; the 2014 Jackson Estate Santa Maria Valley ($28) and 2013 Jackson Estate Camelot Highlands ($30) display nicely why Santa Barbara is an increasingly important source of Chardonnay.

The state’s best known region, the Napa Valley, shines with grapes sourced from cooler vineyards in the foothills and in the southern part of the county near the town of Napa and in Carneros. The rich 2014 Chappellet Napa ($35), bright 2013 Artesa Estate Reserve ($35), luscious 2013 Duckhorn Napa Valley ($35), and complex 2013 Franciscan “Cuvee Sauvage” ($40) all merit attention.

Even more than Napa, Sonoma County, especially the cool climate regions of the Russian River Valley and the Sonoma Coast, has emerged as California’s premier Chardonnay producer. And Patz & Hall, a Chardonnay specialist, is one of the county’s most highly regarded producers. Particularly successful with its single vineyard bottlings, the full-bodied 2014 Dutton Ranch ($44) and especially the complex 2013 Zio Tony RRV ($65) impressed, while the pure 2014 Sonoma Coast ($40) is distinctive.

MacRostie also produced a fine 2014 Dutton Ranch ($46), while Matanzas Creek scored with 2013 Sonoma County ($26).

I was particularly impressed with the structured 2014 Sonoma-Loeb Sangiacomo Vineyard ($27) and 2014 Sonoma-Loeb Envoy ($38), a special selection of their best lots mostly from the Sangiacomo Vineyard. Great values.

Patz & Hall also submitted two fine Carneros-Napa Valley wines: the rich, yet fresh 2013 Hyde Vineyard ($60) and the luscious, complex 2014 Hudson Vineyard ($55), arguably the best wine of the tasting.

Lastly, the lively, fruitful 2013 Talbott Sleepy Hollow Vineyard ($42) from the Santa Lucia Highlands is worth seeking out.

Now, what I call the “Chablis Style” is gaining popularity among increasing numbers of California producers. They emulate France’s other Burgundy region, Chablis by limiting new oak (in favor of used oak and stainless steel tanks) and malo, with some actually eschewing oak or malo altogether. The Chablis style emphasizes zesty, fresh, citrus fruits and crisp maybe green apple with a vigorous, lively texture. The intent is to allow more of the pure, fresh fruit to shine through.

The wines below use much less oak but still manage deftly walking the line between richness and. They are listed in my order of preference but all are recommended.

It’s definitely pricey but arguably the best wine of my tasting was the 2013 Sea Smoke Estate Vineyard ($60) from the prestigious Pinot Noir producer in Santa Barbara’s Santa Rita Hills. More than half of the barrels used were new but some of the wine was fermented in stainless steel to capture pure fruit flavors. I found it to have amazing depth with toasty richness and layers of fruit and texture.

Nearly as good at half the price, the 2014 Freemark Abbey Napa Valley ($30) is remarkable for its abundant stone and tropical fruits and lively structure. With 55% fermented in stainless and no malolactic fermentation, the quality fruit really shines through, even though 32% of the barrels used for aging were new.

Other very good wines at reasonable prices that split fermentation roughly equally between oak barrels and stainless steel tanks:

• 2014 Davis Bynum River West Vineyard ($25). Refreshing citrus, mineral notes, lush

• 2014 Rodney Strong Sonoma Coast ($25). Brisk citrus, caramel apple, sleek

• 2013 Miner Napa Valley ($30). Taut core of lime, tonic-like hints of mineral

• 2013 Clos du Val Napa ($28). Pear, quince, creamy elegance

• 2014 Jordan Russian River Valley ($32). Delicate, yet juicy pear and citrus 

• 2013 Cherry Tart ($25). Bright citrus, sumptuous texture

Lucky for consumers, you can still find good quality at even lower prices. See are some good choices:

• 2013 Educated Guess ($17). Creamy lemon merengue, 60% stainless fermented

• 2013 Talbott “Kali Hart” Monterey ($20). Vibrant, pure apple and melon, 85% stainless fermented

• 2014 Complicated Sonoma Coast ($18). crisp, succulent citrus and tropical fruit

• 2014 Rodney Strong Chalk Hill ($22). energetic citrus but creamy, lush texture

• 2014 Kendall-Jackson “Avant” ($17). Zesty apple and lemon; 60% stainless fermented
• 2014 La Crema Monterey ($20) pineapple and spice, nicely fruity
• 2014 Chloe Sonoma County ($17) nice pear and tropical fruit, soft and round

Finally, since no construct applies 100% of the time, the following wines from Sonoma’s MacRostie Vineyards to my palate fall somewhere between the Cote d’Or Style and the Chablis Style. These wines are all barrel fermented and aged but with little new oak. The 2014 Russian River Valley ($32) uses the most at 21%, the 2014 Sangaicomo ($44) the least at 16%. My favorite of the group, the 2013 Wildcat Mountain ($40) from MacRostie’s estate vineyard on the Sonoma Coast, is in the middle with 18% new oak. It’s plenty rich, full-bodied and plush, while exhibiting a purity of orange, apple and peach fruit, finishing with a touch of spice.