Tag: Spain

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FOOD & WINE MAGAZINE BRINGS THE WORLD OF WINE TO ASPEN

While the cooking demonstrations and wine seminars are the foundation of the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen, another hallmark of the Classic is all the receptions, parties, and other special events. This year was no exception. I had so many invitations, I just couldn’t make them all … and believe me I tried.

 

But I still had many opportunities to discover new wines and meet new winemakers. For me, one of the best things about the Classic is the opportunity it presents to meet winemakers and winery owners and to taste wines from producers whom I seldom or never get a chance to try.

For instance, I had a chance to sit down with Michael Martini, the third generation winemaker for the Louis M. Martini Winery in the Napa Valley. Michael, who has been the winemaker for this family (a family that has an over 100 year old history of winemaking in California) since 1977, was anxious to tell me about (and have me taste) his wines. Mariola Varona Bayola, the Export Manager for Bodegas Martin Codax, also joined us. Martín Códax is a 27 year old Spanish winery that is best known for its Albariño. Confused that representatives of a California winery and a Spanish winery both were at this meeting? Don’t be, both are now owned by the Gallo family. And both were delightful lunch companions. And their wines – Martini Cabs and Codax Albariño – were equally enjoyable.

 

It was a treat to be able to attend a reserve tasting moderated by Master Sommelier Richard Betts on “The Extraordinary Wines of California’s Sine Qua Non.” Now, if you have never heard of Sine Qua Non, don’t worry. That just means you are not a wine geek. Sine Qua Non is a “cult wine” among the cult wines. You can only buy them if you first get on their mailing list and then wait only God knows how long to get in. Maybe you can find one on a restaurant wine list but it probably will cost hundreds of dollars. This is what is special about these reserve tasting’s. They offer rare opportunities to taste equally rare and extraordinary wines.

All of the wines we tasted reflected differing blends of various Rhone varietals – the reds presented different expressions of syrah and grenache, while the whites showed off combinations of roussanne, viognier, and chardonnay. My key take away from the tasting is that the wines definitely lived up to their hype. First and foremost, all six wines showed off beautiful fruit. The use of oak showed in balance with the depth of fruit and acidity.

 

It’s a ritual every year to wander the Grand Tasting Tent, where producers from all over the world display their wares, in the hopes of making new discoveries. As with previous years, I ended up on a sort of world tour. I don’t have room to list all the wines tasted but here are a few highlights.

Although Australia is best known for many great Shiraz, I’m glad I was persuaded to take the road less traveled and try some really outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. From Penley Estate, a highly regarded winery in the Coonawarra region of South Australia, I enjoyed the “Phoenix” and Reserve Cabs and chatting with Proprietor/Chief Winemaker Kym Tolley. From the Yarra Valley region of Victoria, I really was impressed with Pinot Noirs from Giant Steps and Innocent Bystander, partly because one usually doesn’t think of great Pinot Noir from Australia but also because Owner/Winemaker Phil Sexton was pouring and explaining the wines. Before leaving Australia, I found one more wine I also highly recommend: the Vasse Felix “Heytesbury” Cabernet Sauvignon from the Margaret river region of Southwestern Australia.

 

Representing Portugal, the Esporão Assobio, which is made predominantly from touriga nacional, tinta roriz and touriga franca grapes, is a distinguished single vineyard red worthy of any serious wine drinker. If you think the only Portugal wine worth drinking is Port (and Port is great stuff), think again. There is a lot of great Portuguese dry table wine and Assobio is one of the best.

 

Wines from Spain for many years has hosted a whole tent as a separate location within the Grand Tasting park and it is always a great place to hunt for new wines. This year I was especially impressed with the wines at the “Drink Ribera” (that’s Ribera del Duero, one of Spain’s most important regions). My favorites were the Bodegas Montecastro, from high altitude vineyards, and Alejandro Fernandez Tinto Pesquera, from a pioneer of modern Spanish wine. Both are excellent representations of tempranillo, Spain’s most distinguished grape.

 

I finished my tour in the tent tasting several California wines, with the highlights being the following, all really outstanding, wines:

 

  • 2011 Franciscan Cuvée Sauvage Chardonnay
  • 2009 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
  • 2009 Simi Cabernet Sauvignon Landslide Vineyard
  • 2009 Franciscan Magnificat (Bordeaux-style blend)
  • 2009 Mt. Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
  • 2010 Ravenswood Zinfandel Belloni Vineyard

As for the receptions, the annual Wines from Spain/Jose Andres Spanish Barbecue was another stunner. Hosted at an amazing trophy home/mansion in the mountains above the Buttermilk ski area, there were again delectable grilled meats and shrimp, tasty charcuterie, and a wonderful array of cheeses. Of course, there also were some excellent wines. I was impressed enough with three wines – Bodegas Roda Rioja  “Roda 1,” Bodegas Muga Rioja “Torre Muga,” and Bodegas Emilio Moro Ribera del Duero “C21 Malabrigo” – to actually write them down amid all the happy chaos.

But I was especially impressed this year with the reception for the “Chef’s Club by Food & Wine” restaurant. This is a special restaurant within the St. Regis hotel that features a rotating lineup of Food & Wine Best New Chefs doing the cooking. What was really cool was the collection of fine Colorado artisan producers presenting their creations in the courtyard. Kudos to Continental Sausage (Denver), Licious Organics (Boulder), Linger restaurant (Denver), Quixotic Tilapia Farm (Canon City), Magpies (Eagle), Aero Farm (Lakewood), Outrageous Gluten-Free Baking (Denver), Jumpin’ Good Goat Dairy (Buena Vista), Etalia Gluten-Free Breads (Boulder), Raquelitas Tortillas (Denver), and

Esoteric Foods “Zuke” Pickled Products (Boulder).

 

Needless to say, it was another year of discovery at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen. I already can’t wait for next year.

 

 

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A QUICK TRIP TO SPAIN

When I first got interested in wine (way too long ago to admit) Spanish wine basically was a go-to choice for good values for every day drinking. Even the storied Rioja seemed an afterthought in discussions of the world’s finest wines. That seemed largely true even twenty years ago, when I first started writing about wine.

 

Well, that’s so Twentieth Century. Today, Spanish wines must be included in any serious discussion of the world’s finest wines but what’s really cool is there still are plenty of great everyday values.

 

In the fine wine category, I include two recently tasted wines from two highly respected producers. Bodegas RODA was founded in the late 1980s by Maria Rottlant and Carmen Dauvella. This is a thoroughly modern winery making thoroughly modern wines but wines that pay tribute to the centuries old traditions of the Rioja. Each vintage, the seventeen best vineyards (all vines are 30-100 years old) are selected to ferment separately and then three blends are fashioned to express different styles of tempranillo, Spain’s signature red grape.

 

The 2006 RODA Reserva ($45) is 100 percent tempranillo aged in French oak of which half is new. It shows textbook red berry fruit character, though maybe a bit sweet. That is offset with toasty, earthy, smoky notes and fresh acidity. It finishes with elegant, supple tannins.

 


In nearby Toro, we find more evidence of the modern winemaking renaissance in Spain and Bodegas Farina is one of the leaders, which is interesting in that it also is one of the oldest family wineries in the region, founded in 1942. It wasn’t long ago Toro was virtually unknown outside of Spain.Not so today and wines like the 2006 Gran Dama de Toro ($45) are the reasons why. The wine is full-bodied and intense. It opens with aromas of oak, black fruits, bacon, and toast. It is packed with dense blackberry, cherry, and plum fruit accented with an herbal touch. Highly structured with strong tannins, it finishes surprisingly harmonious.As I mentioned, there are still countless good value, everyday wines from Spain. I found several in my tasting. 

Another region that has witnessed revitalization is the home of the “Man of La Mancha.” While this area is believed to be the largest single winegrowing region in the world, with most of the vineyard land given over to growing grapes for brandy or bulk wine, a number of entrepreneurs have embarked on a seemingly Quixotic quest to grow fine premium table wines. One such winery is Finca Constancia, near Toledo in the La Mancha region of Central Spain southwest of Madrid. It is owned by González Byass, a leading producer (founded in 1835 and still family owned and managed) of Spanish wines, Sherries and liqueurs, with the most notable brand being Tio Pepe. Finca Constancia was created as a single estate property to produce single parcel wines similar to the principles of Bordeaux.

 

The vineyard is planted to numerous international varietals (cabernet sauvignon, syrah, cabernet franc, petit verdot, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay) but also many indigenous varietals (tempranillo, graciano, verdejo and garnacha. With the designation “Vino de la Tierra de Castilla,” the wines below are built upon both new plantings and existing vineyards and take advantage of the more flexible production techniques under the Denomination of Origin laws.

 

  • Finca Constancia Red Blend ($15). A blend of syrah, cabernet franc and garnacha; herbal notes compliment cherry fruit and spice; soft feel but lifted with crisp acidity.

 

  • 2011 Parcela 23 ($20). 100 percent tempranillo, single vineyard; deep, dark fruit, light spice; though a little thin in the middle, it’s concentrated, fresh dark berries and woodsy spices please.

 

  • 2011 Parcela 52 ($20). A 100 percent verdejo, single vineyard white wine ringer; quite aromatic, light and fresh, with brisk limejuice accented with green herb notes and a lively spritz.
  •  2010 Altos de la Finca ($35). From the highest vineyards on the estate, this creative blend of petite verdot and syrah for the extra money adds admirable intensity with deep black fruits, dusty oaky notes followed by a nicely dry finish.
I was quite pleased to find several values from Rioja, the most famous Spanish wine growing region in the southern part of the Basque country. First up are two from Bodegas Bilbainas, which was founded in 1859 and today is the largest estate in the Rioja Alta and fourth largest in all of Rioja.

 

The 2009 Vina Pomal ($12) takes its name from a 108-year-old vineyard, though the grapes are from 10- to 20-year-old vines. It is a fairly traditional Rioja of 100 percent Tempranillo (interestingly aged in 90% American oak). It is designated a Crianza, meaning it has been aged a minimum of one year, with six months in barrel. I liked the earthy red fruits of this straightforward but tasty wine, with its lively palate and lively mouthfeel.

 

Another vineyard lends its name to the 2011 Vina Zaco ($15). Also 100 percent Tempranillo from 10- to 20-year-old vines, it is best understood as a new style Rioja. And it’s an excellent style. Aged equally in American and French oak, it opens with bright cherry and raspberry. The palate has good weight and depth. It is quite full and flavorful, with a juicy finish and aftertaste.

The ancestors of the Bodegas Miguel Ángel Muro have been making wine since 1892 and growing wine grapes even longer. Miguel’s 2008 “Muro Bujanda” Rioja Crianza ($14) is just a fantastic value. Bright cherry and red currant aromas join roasted and lightly creamy notes. Similar flavor profile marks the intense fruit and touches of spice.

 

Founded over a century ago in the Rioja Alavesa by the grandfather of the current owner, Ruiz de Vinaspro makes wines from vines that range from 40-100 years of age. The 2007 Ruiz de Vinaspro Rioja ($15) is 100 percent tempranillo. It sports toasty blueberry and blackberry fruit. The palate is very dry mixing fresh tannins and woodsy herbs with lively wild berry fruit. A little closed at first, it opens up nicely with time.

 

Finally, just in time for summer, the 2010 Bodegas Sumarroca “Temps Flors” ($14) if a delightful, refreshing wine. Sumarroca is located in the Penedes region of Catalonia near Barcelona. The name translates to “time of the flowers” and the unique blend of xarel-lo Muscat and gewürztraminer mirrors that expression in the wine’s aroma (though it’s actually named after a local flower festival). This fruity, off-dry wine sports appealing fruity notes of lychee and tropical fruits balanced with good fruit intensity, perfect for quaffin

Posted on

A QUICK TRIP TO SPAIN

When I first got interested in wine (way too long ago to admit) Spanish wine basically was a go-to choice for good values for every day drinking. Even the storied Rioja seemed an afterthought in discussions of the world’s finest wines. That seemed largely true even twenty years ago, when I first started writing about wine.

 

Well, that’s so Twentieth Century. Today, Spanish wines must be included in any serious discussion of the world’s finest wines but what’s really cool is there still are plenty of great everyday values.

 

In the fine wine category, I include two recently tasted wines from two highly respected producers. Bodegas RODA was founded in the late 1980s by Maria Rottlant and Carmen Dauvella. This is a thoroughly modern winery making thoroughly modern wines but wines that pay tribute to the centuries old traditions of the Rioja. Each vintage, the seventeen best vineyards (all vines are 30-100 years old) are selected to ferment separately and then three blends are fashioned to express different styles of tempranillo, Spain’s signature red grape.

 

The 2006 RODA Reserva ($45) is 100 percent tempranillo aged in French oak of which half is new. It shows textbook red berry fruit character, though maybe a bit sweet. That is offset with toasty, earthy, smoky notes and fresh acidity. It finishes with elegant, supple tannins.

 


In nearby Toro, we find more evidence of the modern winemaking renaissance in Spain and Bodegas Farina is one of the leaders, which is interesting in that it also is one of the oldest family wineries in the region, founded in 1942. It wasn’t long ago Toro was virtually unknown outside of Spain.Not so today and wines like the 2006 Gran Dama de Toro ($45) are the reasons why. The wine is full-bodied and intense. It opens with aromas of oak, black fruits, bacon, and toast. It is packed with dense blackberry, cherry, and plum fruit accented with an herbal touch. Highly structured with strong tannins, it finishes surprisingly harmonious.As I mentioned, there are still countless good value, everyday wines from Spain. I found several in my tasting. 

Another region that has witnessed revitalization is the home of the “Man of La Mancha.” While this area is believed to be the largest single winegrowing region in the world, with most of the vineyard land given over to growing grapes for brandy or bulk wine, a number of entrepreneurs have embarked on a seemingly Quixotic quest to grow fine premium table wines. One such winery is Finca Constancia, near Toledo in the La Mancha region of Central Spain southwest of Madrid. It is owned by González Byass, a leading producer (founded in 1835 and still family owned and managed) of Spanish wines, Sherries and liqueurs, with the most notable brand being Tio Pepe. Finca Constancia was created as a single estate property to produce single parcel wines similar to the principles of Bordeaux.

 

The vineyard is planted to numerous international varietals (cabernet sauvignon, syrah, cabernet franc, petit verdot, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay) but also many indigenous varietals (tempranillo, graciano, verdejo and garnacha. With the designation “Vino de la Tierra de Castilla,” the wines below are built upon both new plantings and existing vineyards and take advantage of the more flexible production techniques under the Denomination of Origin laws.

 

  • Finca Constancia Red Blend ($15). A blend of syrah, cabernet franc and garnacha; herbal notes compliment cherry fruit and spice; soft feel but lifted with crisp acidity.

 

  • 2011 Parcela 23 ($20). 100 percent tempranillo, single vineyard; deep, dark fruit, light spice; though a little thin in the middle, it’s concentrated, fresh dark berries and woodsy spices please.

 

  • 2011 Parcela 52 ($20). A 100 percent verdejo, single vineyard white wine ringer; quite aromatic, light and fresh, with brisk limejuice accented with green herb notes and a lively spritz.
  •  2010 Altos de la Finca ($35). From the highest vineyards on the estate, this creative blend of petite verdot and syrah for the extra money adds admirable intensity with deep black fruits, dusty oaky notes followed by a nicely dry finish.
I was quite pleased to find several values from Rioja, the most famous Spanish wine growing region in the southern part of the Basque country. First up are two from Bodegas Bilbainas, which was founded in 1859 and today is the largest estate in the Rioja Alta and fourth largest in all of Rioja.

 

The 2009 Vina Pomal ($12) takes its name from a 108-year-old vineyard, though the grapes are from 10- to 20-year-old vines. It is a fairly traditional Rioja of 100 percent Tempranillo (interestingly aged in 90% American oak). It is designated a Crianza, meaning it has been aged a minimum of one year, with six months in barrel. I liked the earthy red fruits of this straightforward but tasty wine, with its lively palate and lively mouthfeel.

 

Another vineyard lends its name to the 2011 Vina Zaco ($15). Also 100 percent Tempranillo from 10- to 20-year-old vines, it is best understood as a new style Rioja. And it’s an excellent style. Aged equally in American and French oak, it opens with bright cherry and raspberry. The palate has good weight and depth. It is quite full and flavorful, with a juicy finish and aftertaste.

The ancestors of the Bodegas Miguel Ángel Muro have been making wine since 1892 and growing wine grapes even longer. Miguel’s 2008 “Muro Bujanda” Rioja Crianza ($14) is just a fantastic value. Bright cherry and red currant aromas join roasted and lightly creamy notes. Similar flavor profile marks the intense fruit and touches of spice.

 

Founded over a century ago in the Rioja Alavesa by the grandfather of the current owner, Ruiz de Vinaspro makes wines from vines that range from 40-100 years of age. The 2007 Ruiz de Vinaspro Rioja ($15) is 100 percent tempranillo. It sports toasty blueberry and blackberry fruit. The palate is very dry mixing fresh tannins and woodsy herbs with lively wild berry fruit. A little closed at first, it opens up nicely with time.

 

Finally, just in time for summer, the 2010 Bodegas Sumarroca “Temps Flors” ($14) if a delightful, refreshing wine. Sumarroca is located in the Penedes region of Catalonia near Barcelona. The name translates to “time of the flowers” and the unique blend of xarel-lo Muscat and gewürztraminer mirrors that expression in the wine’s aroma (though it’s actually named after a local flower festival). This fruity, off-dry wine sports appealing fruity notes of lychee and tropical fruits balanced with good fruit intensity, perfect for quaffin

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THE PEOPLES PALATE: WEEKLY WINE RECOMMENDATIONS

THE PEOPLES PALATE: WEEKLY WINE RECOMMENDATIONS 

(for the week of November 25, 2012)

 

Tio Pepe “Fino en Rama” ($25)

 

Tio Pepe is the well-known brand of Sherry produced by Spain’s Gonzalez & Byass, one of the nation’s oldest Sherry producers, having been established in 1835 in Jerez.

 

Sherry, of course, is the fortified wine produced in the area lying between Jerez de la Frontera, Puerto de Santa María and San Lucar de Barrameda in southern Spain. Fino is the light, dry style of Sherry achieved by vinification of the palomino grapes under a coating of yeast (called “flor”) that forms on the aging wine and prevents it from oxidizing. Then, the use of the solera system to blend different vintages lends complexity to the finished wine.

 

Fino en Rama is a specific version of Fino intended to be as fresh and pure as possible (“en rama” can translate as “raw”). This is achieved by minimal treatment of the wine after it is removed from cask. This year, the Tio Pepe Fino en Rama celebrates the 200th anniversary of the birth of Manuel Maria Gonzalez, the producer’s founder.

 

This Tio Pepe comes from the finest four casks selected in the spring, when the flor is at its thickest. And critically, unlike most other Sherry (even some en rama), this wine is unfined and unfiltered. Nothing is added to clarify the juice or to filter dissolved solids; these are achieved mostly with settling. So you get all the natural components of the original wine and more complexity than the typical Fino (which is normally fined and filtered to stabilize it for transport).

 

The resulting wine opens with hints of butterscotch and caramel aromas accented by lemon, spice, minerals, and that trademark almond character. The palate is fresh, tangy and savory. It shows admirable finesse, even delicacy on the palate but at 15% alcohol, it still finishes with a kick.

 

Fino en Rama (even more so that a regular Fino) is best drunk shortly after bottling. It should be served chilled, refrigerated after opening and drunk within three months. It makes a fine aperitif. It is perfect for cheese, fish, Asian food, egg dishes, nuts and, what else, tapas.

 

Only about 200 cases of this special wine is available in the U.S.; so look for it now.

 

2010 Domaine du Pré Baron Sauvignon Touraine ($12)

 

For most folks, the Loire Valley probably is mostly associated with the dozens of dramatic medieval chateau dotted along the Loire River. For those of us fascinated with wine, it is more importantly a key wine region in France. Although the Loire often is overshadowed by Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne and the Rhone Valley, the region produces an amazing diversity of wines well worth any wine lover’s investigation.

 

Take for instance Sauvignon Blanc. Some know it likely originated in Bordeaux where it has achieved acclaim among connoisseurs, especially those from the Graves district, where it is blended with semillon. But I might argue it has achieved a purer expression in the Loire Valley. And certainly Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume, districts located at the eastern end of the valley, have achieved well-deserved recognition for their renditions.

 

I will be writing more about those wines and others from the Loire Valley in the coming months but here I present an excellent choice for you to experience a fine Loire Sauvignon at an everyday price.

 

The best source for such value priced Sauvignon is the Touraine district, which lies at the center of the Loire Valley. Named after the city of Tours, it stretches along the Loire River and is the Valley’s largest district. “Touraine” also is the regional appellation (sort of like “Sonoma” on a California label).

 

Sauvignon Blanc typically is quite aromatic, light, fresh and lively, with invigorating acidity. Its flavor profile includes prominent herbal notes (sometimes even described as grassy) and fruit notes of citrus, grapefruit and sometimes gooseberry (as often seems most pronounced with New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc). In the Touraine, the mostly sandy clay, occasionally flinty soils, yield racy wines that can show some minerality.

 

Touraine de Sauvignon (as it is technically known) may not have quite the complexity or refinement of Sancerre or Pouilly Fumé but from a dedicated grower (like the Mardon family of Pré Baron) it can be eminently satisfying. And with attractive pricing, it is a more than reasonable alternative to its more expensive relatives.

 

This wine, made without the use of oak, shows really nice spicy herb flecked citrus notes and a touch of flinty, smoky aromas. The palate has a fair amount of weight, which carries nice orange and lemon flavors. It is crisp and lively, perfect for light dishes, including chicken, fish and shellfish, and even salads.