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FOOD & WINE MAGAZINE BRINGS THE WORLD OF WINE TO ASPEN

While the cooking demonstrations and wine seminars are the foundation of the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen, another hallmark of the Classic is all the receptions, parties, and other special events. This year was no exception. I had so many invitations, I just couldn’t make them all … and believe me I tried.

 

But I still had many opportunities to discover new wines and meet new winemakers. For me, one of the best things about the Classic is the opportunity it presents to meet winemakers and winery owners and to taste wines from producers whom I seldom or never get a chance to try.

For instance, I had a chance to sit down with Michael Martini, the third generation winemaker for the Louis M. Martini Winery in the Napa Valley. Michael, who has been the winemaker for this family (a family that has an over 100 year old history of winemaking in California) since 1977, was anxious to tell me about (and have me taste) his wines. Mariola Varona Bayola, the Export Manager for Bodegas Martin Codax, also joined us. Martín Códax is a 27 year old Spanish winery that is best known for its Albariño. Confused that representatives of a California winery and a Spanish winery both were at this meeting? Don’t be, both are now owned by the Gallo family. And both were delightful lunch companions. And their wines – Martini Cabs and Codax Albariño – were equally enjoyable.

 

It was a treat to be able to attend a reserve tasting moderated by Master Sommelier Richard Betts on “The Extraordinary Wines of California’s Sine Qua Non.” Now, if you have never heard of Sine Qua Non, don’t worry. That just means you are not a wine geek. Sine Qua Non is a “cult wine” among the cult wines. You can only buy them if you first get on their mailing list and then wait only God knows how long to get in. Maybe you can find one on a restaurant wine list but it probably will cost hundreds of dollars. This is what is special about these reserve tasting’s. They offer rare opportunities to taste equally rare and extraordinary wines.

All of the wines we tasted reflected differing blends of various Rhone varietals – the reds presented different expressions of syrah and grenache, while the whites showed off combinations of roussanne, viognier, and chardonnay. My key take away from the tasting is that the wines definitely lived up to their hype. First and foremost, all six wines showed off beautiful fruit. The use of oak showed in balance with the depth of fruit and acidity.

 

It’s a ritual every year to wander the Grand Tasting Tent, where producers from all over the world display their wares, in the hopes of making new discoveries. As with previous years, I ended up on a sort of world tour. I don’t have room to list all the wines tasted but here are a few highlights.

Although Australia is best known for many great Shiraz, I’m glad I was persuaded to take the road less traveled and try some really outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. From Penley Estate, a highly regarded winery in the Coonawarra region of South Australia, I enjoyed the “Phoenix” and Reserve Cabs and chatting with Proprietor/Chief Winemaker Kym Tolley. From the Yarra Valley region of Victoria, I really was impressed with Pinot Noirs from Giant Steps and Innocent Bystander, partly because one usually doesn’t think of great Pinot Noir from Australia but also because Owner/Winemaker Phil Sexton was pouring and explaining the wines. Before leaving Australia, I found one more wine I also highly recommend: the Vasse Felix “Heytesbury” Cabernet Sauvignon from the Margaret river region of Southwestern Australia.

 

Representing Portugal, the Esporão Assobio, which is made predominantly from touriga nacional, tinta roriz and touriga franca grapes, is a distinguished single vineyard red worthy of any serious wine drinker. If you think the only Portugal wine worth drinking is Port (and Port is great stuff), think again. There is a lot of great Portuguese dry table wine and Assobio is one of the best.

 

Wines from Spain for many years has hosted a whole tent as a separate location within the Grand Tasting park and it is always a great place to hunt for new wines. This year I was especially impressed with the wines at the “Drink Ribera” (that’s Ribera del Duero, one of Spain’s most important regions). My favorites were the Bodegas Montecastro, from high altitude vineyards, and Alejandro Fernandez Tinto Pesquera, from a pioneer of modern Spanish wine. Both are excellent representations of tempranillo, Spain’s most distinguished grape.

 

I finished my tour in the tent tasting several California wines, with the highlights being the following, all really outstanding, wines:

 

  • 2011 Franciscan Cuvée Sauvage Chardonnay
  • 2009 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
  • 2009 Simi Cabernet Sauvignon Landslide Vineyard
  • 2009 Franciscan Magnificat (Bordeaux-style blend)
  • 2009 Mt. Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
  • 2010 Ravenswood Zinfandel Belloni Vineyard

As for the receptions, the annual Wines from Spain/Jose Andres Spanish Barbecue was another stunner. Hosted at an amazing trophy home/mansion in the mountains above the Buttermilk ski area, there were again delectable grilled meats and shrimp, tasty charcuterie, and a wonderful array of cheeses. Of course, there also were some excellent wines. I was impressed enough with three wines – Bodegas Roda Rioja  “Roda 1,” Bodegas Muga Rioja “Torre Muga,” and Bodegas Emilio Moro Ribera del Duero “C21 Malabrigo” – to actually write them down amid all the happy chaos.

But I was especially impressed this year with the reception for the “Chef’s Club by Food & Wine” restaurant. This is a special restaurant within the St. Regis hotel that features a rotating lineup of Food & Wine Best New Chefs doing the cooking. What was really cool was the collection of fine Colorado artisan producers presenting their creations in the courtyard. Kudos to Continental Sausage (Denver), Licious Organics (Boulder), Linger restaurant (Denver), Quixotic Tilapia Farm (Canon City), Magpies (Eagle), Aero Farm (Lakewood), Outrageous Gluten-Free Baking (Denver), Jumpin’ Good Goat Dairy (Buena Vista), Etalia Gluten-Free Breads (Boulder), Raquelitas Tortillas (Denver), and

Esoteric Foods “Zuke” Pickled Products (Boulder).

 

Needless to say, it was another year of discovery at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen. I already can’t wait for next year.

 

 

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PEOPLE’S PALATE WINERY PROFILE: BONNY DOON VINEYARD

RANDALL GRAHM’S AND BONNY DOON’S QUEST FOR TERROIRISTIC SELF EXPRESSION BEARS FRUIT

 

Over the last few decades, the concept of terroir and its influence on the grapes grown in a given location and ultimately the wine from those grapes has been the subject of an enormous amount of discussion and as much debate. When I first saw mentions of the subject, it was mostly presented in terms of the geography and geology of the soil in which the grapevines are grown. Soon after, conversations incorporated the environmental conditions and climate. Then it was expanded to include factors influenced by humans – particularly the grape growing and winemaking.

 

Nowadays most commentators agree a “terroir driven wine” ultimately reflects the sum of the natural conditions of its place of origin and the human decisions in the vineyard and the cellar that attempt to express the unique characteristics of that location. Actually, beyond that it seems to me the extent to which a wine accomplishes that ideal is a result of a still poorly understood alchemy in which the wine is greater than the sum of its influences.

 

Enter Randall Grahm, a singular winemaking personality known as much for his gift at turning a phrase and clever prose incorporating literary and philosophical references. Mr. Grahm founded Bonny Doon winery thirty years ago and was one of the original “Rhone Rangers” (proponents of California wines made with grapes typical of France’s Rhone Valley). He has long been a proponent of “terroir driven” wines but to many seemed to have lost his way for a period when he focused more on growing his wine business (ultimately to nearly 500,000 cases a year).

 

Now, he has recommitted himself and his operation to making (actually I think he would prefer I say “shepherding” or “facilitating” or maybe “translating”) wines that reflect the vineyard source. A key decision in this regard he says is his decision to only use biodynamically farmed grapes and rely on indigenous yeasts for fermentation. There still are myriad practices employed in the cellar to achieve the style of wine Mr. Grahm prefers (which I would describe as more European – higher acidity, dryer fruit flavors, more earthy and herbal components) but he seems genuinely dedicated to decisions he thinks will produce wines optimally characteristic of their origin.

 

And the quality of the wines, at least based on my recent tasting, more than justify his approach. He still is focusing on Rhone varietals and now also “lesser-known varietals” like the Albarino reviewed below.

 

 

For the whites, the 2011 Albarino ($18) from the Central Coast vineyards Casa Grande near Soledad and Jesperson Ranch in San Louis Obispo is fun to drink. True to its varietal characteristics (the grape is mostly known for its wines from Spain and Portugal), this wine is fairly aromatic and quite lively in the mouth. I enjoyed its peach, melon and lime fruit, and a creamy note that adds weight.

 

The 2010 Le Cigare Blanc Beeswax Vineyard Arroyo Seco ($26) also is quite fragrant with floral, lemon, pear, and spice notes. This Rhône-style blend of roussanne and grenache blanc comes from a shielded from the cool Pacific winds by the Santa Lucia Mountains vineyard is medium-bodied, with a lush texture (possibly from the full malolactic fermentation) and intriguing mineral characteristics.

 

 

On to the reds, the 2010 Contra ($16) is described as an “Old Vine Field Blend” implying the vineyard sources are planted with multiple grapes and all the fruit is harvested and vinified together. About 2/3 carignane (old, nongrafted, dry-farmed, head-trained vines from Contra Costa County’s Gonsalves Vineyard) and 1/3 syrah (from Santa Maria Valley’s Bien Nacido Vineyard) with splashes of grenache, roussanne, grenache blanc, and mourvèdre, this is similar to a wine we might find from the south of France. Regardless, it is a fine value with mushroom aromas and nice ripe red and black fruits, a touch of licorice and spice followed by a medium body, supple texture and fresh acidity.

 

The 2009 Ca’ del Solo Nebbiolo Monterey County ($45) from the biodynamic Ca’ del Solo Estate Vineyard is rather pricey but it does deliver the goods. On the nose, there are pure red cherry, lightly floral and smoke notes, and maybe even a creamy quality. In the mouth, an underlying element of earth with a touch of fennel is the foundation for a juicy, lighter-bodied, brightly fruited wine.

 

The Chateauneuf-du-Pape style 2008 Le Cigare Volant ($38) has become somewhat iconic since its inception 25 years ago. It was one of the first such wines from one of the first Rhone Rangers. This vintage is 45 percent grenache (mostly from Ca’ del Solo estate) and 30 percent syrah (mostly from Bien Nacido vineyard), with smaller proportions of mourvedre, cinsault, and carignane. It shows tangy plum and hints of cherries and anise. I sense lightly dusty, woodsy notes in the nose. There is similar fruit in the broad mouth, while it closes with powdery, gravelly tannins.

The 2008 Le Cigare Volant Reserve en Bonbonne ($65) is a really interesting wine. It is a selection of the Cigare Volant separated to finish aging in 5-gallon glass bottles (called carboys or “bonbonnes”) rather than barrels or foudres. Possibly because of the nature of this container, particularly its reductive (oxygen free) nature, it does seem to have a bit more structure and taste a little fresher. Still, the bouquet presents evolved notes of dried berries and herbs with a pleasant suggestion of gravel. It is nicely concentrated and dry and finishes with noticeable tannic grip.

 

I would say these two wines are of roughly equal quality, although I preferred the Bonbonne. They’re just made in different styles. Maybe they should be thought of as different expressions of the vineyard sources as interpreted by the winemaker.

 

There also were three Syrahs in my tasting. One, the 2009 Le Pousseur Syrah ($25) was the only wine that didn’t impress me much. There was nothing wrong with its earthy, savory qualities and black cherry fruit. It just seemed rather one-dimensional.

 

In contrast, the 2008 Syrah Alamo Creek Vineyard ($35) had a lot going on. It opened with enticing red fruit. Then it followed with smoky dried herbs and a spice note that for some reason made me wonder if they came from the grape, the barrels in which the wine was aged, or the vineyard (which Grahm says is planted in an old riverbed in San Louis Obispo County). It had a similar flavor profile, with deep fruit, a touch of anise and savory, peppery, meaty flavors. This is all packaged in a solid structure, with distinct dryness, finishing with lively tannins.

 

Finally, the 2008 Syrah Bien Nacido Vineyard ($42) was the star of my tasting. From the cool climate, older vines and calcareous soils of Bien Nacido’s X-block, this is a fantastic wine. It was generous with its tart cherry and juicy berry fruit. Peppery, earthy and meaty elements emerged with time in the glass, all nicely balanced with fresh acidity. As with the best Syrahs, this wine deftly balanced power and elegance.

 

Based on the wines in my tasting, this partnership between the winemakers, wine growers, grapevines, and vineyards is bearing fine fruit and I look forward to following its further development.

 

 

NOTE: All photos obtained from Bonny Doon website.

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LOTS OF BUBBLES TO MAKE YOUR NEW YEAR SPARKLE

PEOPLE’S PALATE WEEKLY WINE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR DECEMBER 26, 2012

LOTS OF BUBBLES TO MAKE YOUR NEW YEAR SPARKLE

 

Although sparkling wine is always an appropriate choice for any occasion any time of year, no question the New Year, with all its toasts and “Champagne” brunches, are prime time for indulging a bit of bubbly. And effervescent wine is so popular, there are versions made in virtually every wine region.

 

Champagne

 

The benchmark for sparkling wine is that made in the Champagne region of northwestern France. Cool climate, limestone laced soils, and a nearly 300 year singular focus on the style (the “traditional method” – secondary fermentation in the bottle to capture the ”stars”) means Champagne is the benchmark for all things foamy. It also means the stuff is quite expensive. So, I suspect in most cases you will be looking for a nonvintage Brut. It’ll still set you back a pretty penny but with a top producer (like the two here) you’ll still get something special.

Charles Heidsieck. One of the oldest and most prestigious Champagne houses, established in 1851, the Charles Heidsieck house style typically is one the most complex and bold. Equal parts pinot noir, chardonnay, pinot meunier, with 40 percent reserve wines – some 10-15 years old – the Brut Reserve ($65) packs toasty brioche, pear and tropical fruits, with nutty notes in an amazingly lush frame. Even given the considerable cash commanded by Champagne, the Brut Reserve delivers a lot of wine for the money. 

Lanson. Over 250 years old (the fourth oldest Champagne house), Lanson has been absent from the U.S. market for a while but was recently reintroduced here. Lanson always was one of my favorite Champagnes, so I’m glad they’re back. And the Brut Rosé ($60) doesn’t disappoint. With 53 percent pinot noir, 32 percent chardonnay and 15 percent pinot meunier, the wine is exceedingly fresh and aromatic. This may be because Lanson eschews malolactic fermentation, meaning its wines typically retain more pure fresh fruit character. This one is loaded, with biscuit and floral aromas, red berry and citrus flavors and comes with an elegant texture.

 

Crémant

 

Beyond Champagne, there still are a wide variety of (mostly) more affordable choices for you. In France, Crémant is a term used to designate a high quality sparkling wine made using specified quality control practices including the “methode traditionnelle.”

 

Pierre Sparr Crémant d’Alsace. The Sparr family winery was established an amazingly long time ago in 1680. Pierre Sparr has access to many of the region’s finest vineyards, so maybe it shouldn’t be a surprise this is a highly respected producer. The Brut Reserve ($19) is 80 percent pinot blanc, 20 percent pinot auxerrois. The nose suggests the assertive melon, tropical and citrus fruit that dominates the palate. Fine mousse tickles the palate with minerals and hints of nuts. A fantastic value. The Brut Rosé ($19) is 100 percent pinot noir with fresh aromas of soft red berries and delicate, fruity flavors and lively acidity.

 

Gerard Bertrand Crémant de Limoux. Limoux, a small town and appellation in the Languedoc-Rousillon region of Mediterranean France, lays claim to producing sparkling wine by a second fermentation in the bottle long before Champagne.  Crémant de Limoux traces its history to 1531 and Benedictine monks at the abbey of Saint-Hilaire. Bertrand’s 2010 Crémant de Limoux ($16) is a blend of 70 percent chardonnay, 20 percent chenin blanc and 10 percent mauzac, the indigenous grape which used to dominate all Limoux sparkling wine. There is enticing flowery, citrus and toast on the nose and pleasant pear, apple and lemon flavors. I found the palate to show refined, frothy bubbles.

 

Prosecco

 

Prosecco from the Veneto region of northeastern Italy has become an extremely popular sparkling wine choice in recent years. Prosecco (the name of the production zone, while glera is the dominant grape), unlike the other sparklers in this report is produced using the Charmat Method. In this case, the bubbles are produced by inducing the second fermentation in a pressurized tank. The attraction is in fresh aromas and clean, delicate fruit, frizzante bubbles and low alcohol.

 

Valdo. Valdo Spumanti was established in 1926 and has been owned by the Bolla family since 1940. The Valdo Brut DOC ($12) opens with floral aromas and delivers lively, fruity pear and apple flavors. Valdo also has released a new Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut. Designated “Oro Puro” ($16), Prosecco’s fresh, lively style certainly is present but there is evidence of greater complexity and fuller flavors as the grapes are from the finest (usually higher altitude) hillside estate vineyards and the wine undergoes an extended aging period. Also consider Valdo’s Nerello Mascalese Rosé ($14), in which the nerello grape adds color, raspberry and spice to the blend. It’s not Prosecco but is similar in style.

 

Mionetto. Another one of Prosecco’s top producers, Mionetto traces its origin to 1887. They also areone of the zone’s most creative, as evidenced by the lighter, gently-sparkling and lower alcohol style of Mionetto’s “IL” ($13). The fruity aroma of pear and citrus is followed by a fresh and crisp wine with apple and peach flavors. The Mionetto Prosecco Brut DOC Treviso ($15) is a bit floral and more intensely fruity with notes of apple and citrus. It also is drier and pleasantly brisk.

 

Enza. Enza Extra Dry ($15) is a new brand produced for the importer W.J. Deutsch by the Cantina Colli del Soligo, a cooperative of growers throughout the Veneto. The slightly higher residual sugar is nicely balanced with just the right touch of acidity. The delicate bouquet offers with scents of pear and apple with a lightly floral, while the mouth also exhibits citrus and peach.

 

Moscato and Moscato d’Asti

 

You have to give the Italians credit for creativity and their fascination with spumante. As much as they are rightly recognized for their red wines, I have been told the Italians are just as proud of their sparkling wines. In addition to Prosecco and the impressive Franciacorta (none reviewed here), the Piemontese have come up with one of the most delightful of all. Made from the moscato bianco (white Muscat) grape in the vineyards surrounding the town of Asti, moscato d’Asti is enticingly aromatic, delightfully sweet, slightly fizzy (frizzante), and very low alcohol (5.5%), making it perfect as an aperitif or a dessert wine.


Vietti Moscato d’Asti. With a 200 year tradition of winemaking, this highly regarded producer is recognized as one of the first in the Piemonte to bottle single-vineyard wines and for pioneering the resurrection of the indigenous areneis white grape.  They also make one of the best Moscato d’Asti. The 2012 “Cascinetta” ($15) uses only the best moscato grapes with extended maturation. The resulting wine intense aromas of honey, peach and orange, with hints of spice and a suggestion of flowers. On the palate, it is loaded with apple, pear and lemon, while its delicate sweetness is balanced with bracing acidity leading to a fresh finish.

 

 

Caposaldo Moscato. Caposaldo is a brand brought to the U.S. by the importer Kobrand. The Moscato IGT ($10) actually is not a Moscato d’Asti but I include it here for ease of reference. The grapes are grown in the Provincia di Pavia in northern Italy’s Lombardy region. It is a bit less sweet and higher in alcohol (but still very low at 7%). And the price sure is right.

 

Cava

 

Spanish Cava has long been my go-to bubbly for parties and friendly accompaniment for meals. Most Cava is produced by the tradition method in the Penedès valley in Cataluna not far from Barcelona. Most Cava features the indigenous grapes Macabeo, Xarel-lo, Parellada. It’s recently had competition from Prosecco but is still a great choice.

 

Codorníu. Codorníu has been a premier sparkling wine producer since 1872 when the family introduced the traditional method to Spain. The family’s winemaking history actually stretches back more than 450 years to 1551. Anna de Codorníu Brut ($15) celebrates the life of Codorníu’s last heiress and the family she guided. It was the first Cava to use chardonnay in its cuvee, 70 percent in this release with 30 percent parellada. It shows some richness and a little sweetness, with a solid structure and a creamy texture and more fruit than expected – citrus, tropical and strawberry aromas; and apple, citrus, and raspberry flavors.

 

Poema.  Poema is a top-quality, small-production Cava house that emphasizes sustainable practices, suchasorganic fertilizer and no herbicides. The Brut ($13) is notable for its fresh bread, citrus, apple and even mineral notes. Its crisp, fruity and well-balanced profile positions it as a great choice. 

California

 

Barefoot Bubbly. For my California selection, I’m recommending a reliable choice in the so-called “value” category – Barefoot Bubbly. Barefoot Cellars has been churning out good value wines since 1986. Today, they produce thirteen still wines and seven sparkling. The mainstays of the Barefoot Bubbly line are the Brut Cuvée and Extra Dry, each ($11). The Brut is not as dry as the term usually indicates. But it is clean and crisp, with nice lemon and apple fruit balanced with creamy notes. The Extra Dry shows nice fresh tropical fruit; it is slightly sweet but finishes with refreshing acidity. These wines are ideal for parties and family gatherings and make a good base for the ever popular mimosa.

 

 

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DISCOVER THE WIDE WORLD OF SYRAH (AND SHIRAZ)

rich mauro the people's palate

rich mauro the people's palate

Featured Image courtesy of Niner Wine Estates

Syrah is one of the world’s great red wine grapes but for some reason it has languished in the shadow of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and more recently Pinot Noir. I hope that changes soon; the grape deserves the attention.

At its best, wines made from syrah provide great concentration, complexity and elegance, with an array of aromas and flavors, including berries, cherries, plum, currants, black or white pepper, anise, meat, leather, herbs, chocolate and coffee, and an ability to develop for 10, even 20 years. Even a lower priced syrah will deliver forward fruit and a smooth texture that is just right for everyday drinking.

Syrah also is a good food wine. It matches well with any dish that calls for a full flavored red wine, especially if it’s grilled, roasted, smoked or barbecued. It also stands up well to spicy foods.

Syrah developed its noble reputation as the primary red grape of France‘s northern Rhone Valley, especially the great Hermitage but also Côte-Rôtie, Cornas, Gigondas, St. Joseph, and Crozes-Hermitage. Syrah also can be an important component of the wines of the southern Rhone, including Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Cotes-du-Rhone, as well as many other wines of southern France.

In Hermitage especially the special nature of syrah originates with geography and climate. Steep, terraced vineyards stretch up and down granite hillsides rising above the Rhone River. Over millennia the river has carried alluvial deposits from the Alps laced with calcareous (limestone) and dotted with flint and stones. Cooler Continental influences from the north merge with warmer Mediterranean influences up from the south. The resulting strong winds – known as Mistral – are an ever-present challenge to the vines.

Hermitage, which actually is just a few hilltops, is a tiny appellation – just 320 acres, not much more than many Bordeaux estates. This famous hill got its name from a legend about a knight returning from the Crusades who decided to live out his life in solitude in the chapel on the top of the hill. After his passing, the chapel continued as a home for hermits.

Many believe syrah achieves its noblest expression here, where all the red wines are 100% syrah. M. Chapoutier’s is one of the top producers, along with great names like Chave, Jaboulet and Delas. The Chapoutier family’s history in the Rhône stretches back two centuries. Today they make some of the region’s most prestigious wines and are one of the world’s most highly regarded producers. The 2007 “Monier de la Sizeranne” ($125) is in many ways typical of great Hermitage: deep color, intense aromatics (red and black fruits – raspberry, blackcurrant, blackberry – hints of violets, black pepper and licorice). There also are suggestions of the signature meaty character that should become more pronounced with age. But it is so balanced it actually could be described as elegant. Strong but soft tannins and a lingering finish suggest a long life.

Although France is the benchmark for syrah, Australia deserves a lot of the credit for increasing the grape’s popularity. Australia has over the last 150 years or so developed a special relationship with syrah. Australian Shiraz has become one of the largest selling wines in the U.S. in recent years, popularizing the use of that name on the label. The Aussies produce a lot of good, inexpensive wine but also some of the world’s best wines from the grape.

And not that it necessarily needs it but what better validation of Australia’s success with the grape than for Michel Chapoutier to commit his family to a partnership with the wine importer Anthony Terlato to produce wine here. Their 2007 Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier “lieu dit Malakoff” ($30) single vineyard wine shows its mountain-grown origins in the Pyrenees of Central Victoria. Aromas of black fruits, with touches of chocolate and pepper preview a juicy intensity and solid but silky structure.

The Barossa Valley, just north of Adelaide in South Australia has emerged as arguably the country’s premier Shiraz producer. If you like big, unabashed wines, the 2010 Two Hands “Gnarly Dudes” ($40) is for you. Within little more than a decade, Two Hands has become one of Australia’s most highly praised producers. While they source grapes from various vineyards throughout South Australia, the grapes for Gnarly Dudes come from a number of Barossa parcels, notable for their gnarly old vines. Cocoa, anise and a floral note accent this wine’s dark berries, all delivered with vibrant acidity, with a finish balanced by firm but fine tannins.

I also have identified two good Aussie choices that will take half the bite out of your pocketbook.

The 2010 The Lucky Country McLaren Vale ($19) is from the coastal area south of Adelaide that was first planted in 1838 and still boasts many old vines. The wine is typical Mc Laren Vale with vibrant dark fruits, in this case especially blackberry, hints of mocha, herbal, soil characteristics, and a touch of meat and spice.

Or try another Barossa Shiraz, like the 2009 Peter Lehman ($17). This well regarded winery has been producing for 31 years using mostly fruit purchased from dozens of growers with long-term relationships. The result here is an immediately approachable wine of plum, meat and chocolate aromas followed by a juicy, fresh palate.

Australia’s southern hemisphere neighbor South Africa has emerged in recent years as a fine wine producer well worth attention. And Shiraz definitely is one of the country’s top red wines. The 2006 Rust en Vrede Stellenbosch ($28) would be a great place to start sampling what the country has to offer. The Rust en Vrede estate dates to 1694! And Stellenbosch is the country’s premier winegrowing region. This wine is quite intense, loaded with black fruits, and accented with notes of chocolate, cinnamon, meat and smoke. Round tannins increase its appeal.

Which brings us to California. It seems over the last twenty years or so, Syrah has alternated between being “The Next Big Thing” to being an “also ran.” I say it deserves to be the next big thing. I certainly have had good to excellent Syrah from just about every California growing region.

Terlato shows up again with an impressive Dry Creek Valley Syrah, the 2007 Terlato Block 9 ($48). Block 9 is a section of the Terlato Dry Creek Valley estate vineyard near the confluence of the Dry Creek and Russian Rivers where gravelly soils are particularly hospitable to syrah. They also seem to make for a particularly spicy, full-bodied wine with deep black fruits that linger in the finish.

One development of particular interest that emerged from my tastings is that the grape is doing particularly well in California’s Central Coast.

Paso Robles in particular has emerged as a prime source of syrah and other Rhone varietals. While many of the region’s best wines are blends, there are many fine varietal Syrah wines. For a good introduction, try the 2009 J. Lohr South Ridge Estate ($15). The South Ridge Estate, which sits on a south-facing hillside, hosts sandy and gravelly soils that combine to form conditions conducive to intense fruit. Spiced with touches of petite sirah and zinfandel, this wine shows nice blueberry and chocolate, with good acidity.

Another fine example of Paso Robles Syrah is the 2007 Niner Bootjack Ranch ($20). Niner Wine Estates began in 1999 when entrepreneur Dick Niner recognized Paso’s potential and purchased what is now called Bootjack Ranch. This wine shows black and red fruits, minerals and a smoky character. There are both floral and meaty notes, with good acidity and a finish lifted by noticeable tannins.

Even more impressive is what Zaca Mesa is doing with syrah (not to mention several other Rhône varietals) in Santa Barbara. Located in the heart of what most people know as prime pinot noir country, Zaca Mesa’s wines have introduced whole new possibilities for the region. Located in the Santa Ynez Valley, Zaca Mesa is dedicated to estate grown and bottled wines. All the wines are made from grapes grown on 244 acres of vineyards. Zaca Mesa was the first to plant syrah in Santa Barbara in 1978 and now farms 90 acres of the grape. These three Syrah definitely will grab your attention.

2008 Santa Ynez Valley
($25). This wine is the most typical of Zaca Mesa’s style. It bursts with red and black berries, smoke, mocha and spice. The smooth texture is enlivened by ripe tannins in the finish.

2007 Mesa Reserve ($44). This reserve is crafted from the best barrels of Zaca Mesa’s “Mesa B” block. It is incredibly concentrated with tons of fruit. All the dark berries and smoked meat one would expect, accented with suggestions of mocha, smoke and spice. It will continue to evolve for several years.

2006 Black Bear Block Estate Bottled Santa Ynez Valley
($60). The Black Bear Block is a single 3½-acre block planted with cuttings from (wouldn’t you know it) Chapoutier. This wine is serious stuff. Dense and rich, powerful yet elegant, it bursts with berries, cherries, and currants, all black. Mocha, pepper, oak, meat, and smoke all join the chorus. It finishes with elegant tannins and a touch of chocolate. And will drink well for at least a decade.

Hopefully, if consumers like you try wines like these, Syrah/Shiraz will soon regain its rightful place among the royalty of wines.

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AMERICAN BORDEAUX-STYLE RED BLENDS WORTH A TASTE

Napa vineyards peoples palate rich mauro

Napa vineyards peoples palate rich mauroGiven the international prestige of Bordeaux, it is not surprising that other winemakers would have an interest in imitating that region’s successful winemaking formula. The Bordeaux tradition of blending different grape varieties to create a complete, more multidimensional wine has long captivated the imagination of winemakers and the taste buds of wine drinkers.

This is also true in California, even though varietally labeled wines have dominated the market. Certainly, winemakers and wine drinkers have had and continue to have something of a love affair with Cabernet Sauvignon. And many still appreciate a good Merlot. But most of the wines labeled as such are likely to include at least a small percentage of the other, as well as the other traditional Bordeaux varieties: cabernet franc, malbec and petit verdot.

In this column, I focus on wines that are intentionally Bordeaux-style blends, not varietal wines with dollops of the other varieties. Most of these wines carry a proprietary name, although some are labeled “Meritage” (a designation established for such California blends in the late 1980s and pronounced like “heritage”). While Cabernet Sauvignon usually is the dominant component, the other varieties will show up in larger quantities than for a varietally labeled wine.

And these wines may be growing in popularity. In my research, I found a market analysis of wine trends reprting that the “red blends/Meritage wines grew by 14% over all price categories. It was the fastest growing varietal category” over the year.

My favorite wine from my recent tasting came from Seven Hills Winery in the Walla Walla Valley. When Casey and Vicky McClellan founded the winery in 1988, it was only the fifth in the area that now boasts over 100 producers. And Seven Hills has become one of Washington state’s most highly regarded wineries crafting exceptional merlot, cabernet sauvignon and syrah, riesling and pinot gris.

The Bordeaux blend is labeled “Pentad.” The 2006 ($50) combines 65% cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot, carmenère, cabernet franc and malbec from Walla Walla vineyards. It is a great example of the type, full-bodied, rich, andcomplex. Abundant fruit of dark berries and currants are accented with spicy herbal notes and balancing acidity.

The entry from the Dry Creek Vineyard was nearly as good. Founded by David Stare in 1972, this is one of the modern day pioneers of Dry Creek Valley wine. While a variety of wines are made, the winery built its reputation on Sauvignon Blanc and Zinfandel. But don’t ignore its Meritage wine “The Mariner.” The 2006 ($40) is 50% cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec, petit verdot from Dry Creek Valley vineyards. Its ripe dark fruits (plum, black cherry, currant, berries) meld with layers of black licorice, mineral and spice. It has a somewhat dry and rustic feel, though, that is a nice counterpoint.

Not far behind and a particularly good value is Bennett Lane’s “Maximus Red Feasting Wine.” Bennett Lane is the project of Randy and Lisa Lynch, owners of a successful marketing company and a NASCAR West team, who purchased the property in 2002. The 2006 Maximus ($35) blends 64% cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah, malbec, cabernet franc and petit verdot from vineyard sources up and down the Napa Valley. It is fairly full-bodied with firm tannins and shows deep fruit, including currant and blackberry but also hints of wood, licorice and cocoa.

Finally, a pleasant surprise came from Ironstone Vineyards. Owned by the Kautz family, who were long time farmers in the Sierra Foothills between Sacramento and Lake Tahoe, the family decided in 1988 to make their own wines. The 2006 Reserve Meritage ($45), which is 80% cabernet sauvignon plus equal parts merlot and petite verdot, opens with intense leafy notes (mint, forest, tobacco). This is followed by black cherry and blackberry flavors delivered in a dry, firm structure.

Try any of these wines and you will get a good sense of the balance and complexity that can be achieved through the craft of blending different varietals. And you will taste the synergy winemakers can achieve in creating a product that embodies the classic sentiment of the whole being greater than the sum of its parts.

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NOTHING PETITE ABOUT PETITE SIRAH

These days I find consumers are more interested in experiencing wines with unfamiliar flavor profiles and more reasonable prices. If you are looking for full flavored wines that provide a lot of wine for the money, consider Petite Sirah. I don’t think you will be disappointed.

The roots of the petite sirah vine can be traced back to the south of France in the 1880s, where Dr. Francois Durif propagated a crossing of syrah and the obscure variety peloursin. The resulting vine naturally was designated “durif.” Although the grape never caught on in France, it was brought to California and became valued as a blending grape to give wines structure, body and color. In fact, many of the generically labeled red wines produced during the following century contained large amounts of petite sirah. Now, DNA testing has proven that the vast majority of what has been known by that name in California is actually durif.

Concannon Vineyard is credited as the first California winery to bottle a varietal Petite Sirah in 1961. Foppiano Vineyards, another Petite Sirah proponent, followed soon after. Interestingly, these prescient families staked their reputations on a grape that had declined (from about 7500 acres in the 1930s to around 4500 during the 1960s). It paid off because acreage subsequently grew to a peak of about 14,000 acres by 1976, as the grape often was used to improve the quality of many generic red wine blends. Then the grape went into decline again during the 1980s and 1990s and acreage dropped to around 2400 in 1995. Since then, though, many vintners again have come to realize the quality possible from the grape and plantings almost tripled by 2005 and reached about 7500 acres in 2010.

Wineries up and down the state now are making varietal Petite Sirah wines. And a promotional organization, P. S. I Love You (www.psiloveyou.org), which was founded in 2002 with 39 charter members, has more than doubled to 81 winery members in 2011. I think it’s fair to say that organization and its founding director, Jo Diaz deserves much of the credit for the grape’s growing popularity.

Despite its name and origins, petite sirah grape is not a lesser version of syrah. It is a distinct variety that happens to have syrah as one of its parents. Thus, it can display a similar flavor profile to syrah – dark berries, tobacco, leather, earth, mineral and pepper, with an ability to age well. But there are differences – it often produces bigger, denser, more rustic wines that generally age quite well.

Petite Sirah also is a good companion for full flavored foods, including red meats, game, strong cheeses, mushroom dishes, stews and the like. It also would be a fine companion for grilled foods and barbeque. One serving note, though. These wines generally are so full flavored and tannic they will stay fresh for several hours and, in some cases, even a few days after opening a bottle.

I wrote my first review of Petite Sirah in 2003. Although most of the wines were quite good and showed nice dark berry fruit, they also revealed the rough edges and strong tannins of the grape’s rustic nature. I often appreciate rustic wines but many took it too far. With my second tasting report in 2007, I noticed more refinement in the wines but many were still big and tough, a bit exhausting to drink. This time, I was impressed that as a group (20 producers and 24 wines tasted blind), the wines showed more abundant fruit, more complexity, smoother textures, more manageable tannins, and overall better balance. My favorites most clearly reflected these qualities on my palate.

To the extent any of my tastings are representative of California Petite Sirah in general, I perceive this as a positive evolution in style and quality. My favorites most clearly reflected these qualities on my palate. One thing that hasn’t changed, though: Petite Sirah still delivers a lot of character for the money.

I have to say the biggest surprise of my tasting is that Miro Tcholakov made my two favorite wines. His 2008 Miro Cellars ($30) uses fruit from Rockpile, a northern Sonoma County appellation. And tons of fruit there is, along with subtle complexities like licorice and a concentrated, yet elegant impact. The only downside is there are just 50 cases. Miro also is responsible for the 2009 Trentadue Alexander Valley Estate ($18). I really loved this wine’s berry pie fruit, silky texture and powdery tannins. I should add I also liked the reserve style 2009 Trentadue “La Storia” ($28), which showed more woodsy, tobacco notes but also strong acids that suggest a long life.

And there were other good wines from Sonoma. The 2007 Field Stone “Staten Family Reserve” ($35) from and Alexander Valley vineyard planted in 1894 that is now farmed organically and sustainably, was rather brooding and tough at first but eventually yielded to time and revealed deep fruit to go along with the strong tannins. From one of the earliest Petite Sirah advocates, the Foppiano Russian River Valley ($20) had nice blueberry fruit accented with cinnamon and tobacco aromas and toasty, peppery flavors.

And then there was another surprise. Two of my other favorites came from Cabernet country, the Napa Valley: 2008 R & B Cellars “Pizzicato” ($28) and 2008 Ballentine “Fig Tree Vineyard” ($25). Both wines come from single vineyards and both are concentrated, tannic wines that would benefit from cellaring. The R & B adds black licorice, pine and tobacco notes, while the Ballentine goes more to ripe berries and spice.

Other northern California wine regions also were well represented. From El Dorado County in the Sierra Foothills, the 2007 Lava Cap “Granite Hill Vineyard Reserve” ($30) began big and brash with touches of mint and cinnamon but later opened up to reveal lovely sweet fruit. From nearby Lodi, the 2007 McCay ($24) seemed reticent to show its fruit at first. Burnt notes and tight tannins dominated the wine but that dissipated and later the wine showed good rasiny fruit and hints of cinnamon and mint. By contrast, the 2007 Shannon Ridge ($24) from Lake County, although finishing with tough tannins, immediately displayed its intense blueberry fruit. Despite considerable size and weight, it had an enticing texture.

I also enjoyed two wines from Paso Robles. A 2007 Clayhouse Red Cedar Vineyard ($25) offered spice and coffee in the nose but lots of fruit and soft tannins on the palate. The 2007 Vina Robles “Jardine Estate” ($26) was dominated by dry forest and spicy herb notes but presented a nice core of red fruit with black licorice followed by a hint of bitterness.

Finally, there also were several notable values.

• 2009 The Crusher “Grower’s Selection” ($14). One of three wines in my tasting from Don Sebastiani & Sons, a company that offers an extensive portfolio of wines made with grapes from numerous regions in the state. This one benefits from Clarksburg fruit that yields tasty currant and raisin fruit balanced with soft tannins. Their 2008 Smoking Loon California ($9) is a bit too syrupy for me but that is offset with tobacco notes and fresh tannins. It should be a crowd pleaser.
• 2008 Bogle ($11). This winery, well known for its value priced wines, has been producing Petite Sirah since 1978. Juicy black fruits are offset with minty peppery notes.
• 2007 Parducci (Mendocino) ($11) is made with organically grown grapes from the oldest winery in Mendocino. Parducci is deeply committed to sustainability from the vineyard to the winery and has produced a juicy wine with fresh fruit and admirable intensity.
• 2008 Concannon “Conservancy” ($15). This winery, founded in the Livermore Valley 1883, has sourced the grapes for this wine only from growers who have placed their land in a legal trust that protects the vineyard from urban develop. That’s especially good for consumers because this wine is full flavored and large scaled.

Although Cabernet Sauvignon is by far still the most popular red wine, producers and consumers alike have become interested in alternatives both for more reasonable prices and to experience different flavor profiles. If you haven’t tried it lately, I suggest you consider Petite Sirah. If you are looking for full flavored wines that generally provide a lot of wine for the money, I don’t think you will be disappointed.

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RED, WHITE AND SUMMER: WINES FOR WARM WEATHER SIPPING

Fresh, Fragrant Whites Are Perfect For Warm Weather

What I like most about spring and summer is the blossoming of aromas and how that signals the awakening of life after the rest of winter.  And a cool white wine is just the compliment for the warmer weather. But not just any white wine and certainly not Chardonnay, which is fine but I’m looking for alternatives that are generally lighter and more refreshing.

For my purposes here, that mostly means the so-called “aromatic whites” Riesling and Muscat. These delightful wines are crisp, fruity, and fragrant. And they are natural matches for the lighter foods of summer. It also means the white Rhone varietals – Viognier, Roussanne, and Marsanne, which admittedly are more “Chardonnay-like” but offer intriguingly different flavor profiles.

For generally reasonable prices, these wines also provide a refreshing combination of acidity and in many cases moderate alcohol – perfect for warm weather. They are great as aperitifs or with food. They are especially good with Asian food but would work well with spicy foods, picnic fare, salads and even simple grilled foods.

I’m one of those who think that, all things considered, riesling makes the greatest white wines in the world. In Germany and Alsace it produces aromatic wines of high acid and, unusual for a white wine, potentially long life. The fragrant, flowery aromas lead into fresh green apple, pear and occasionally peach, apricot, pineapple, or mineral flavors are delivered with bracing acidity.

No Alsatians in my recent tastings but a tasty 2009 Rudolf Müller Riesling from Germany (2009, $10 or $24 3L Octavin) offers good everyday drinking. From Australia, the 2009 Chateau Tanunda Grand Barossa ($16) from a cool climate estate vineyard is a good example of how well this grape can do down under. In the U.S., Washington State is making world class Riesling. A recent favorite is the 2009 Seven Hills Columbia Valley ($14). It is made in a refreshing low alcohol style that is slightly sweet. From California, the 2009 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve ($12) and 2009 Carmel Road Monterey ($14) also are tasty options.

Much to my pleasant surprise, a recent market report announced that moscato is the fastest growing varietal with sales last year almost doubling. I have long been a fan of Italy’s Moscato d’Asti. This floral, fruity, slightly effervescent wine from the Piedmont is made from the partially fermented juice of white muscat grapes. It is sweet, delightfully aromatic and delicate on the palate, low alcohol (6%) and equally comfortable as an aperitif or a dessert wine.

The 2010 Paolo Saracco Moscato d’Asti ($16) is exemplary of the style from a favorite producer. Camposaldo makes a similarly enjoyable 2010 Moscato ($14) from grapes grown in Lombardy. And what better proof do I need of the grape’s newfound popularity than the delightful 2010 Moscato ($7) I just tasted from none other than Australia’s [yellow tail]. The mass producer actually has done a decent job of imitating Italy’s signature style.

One of California’s leading producers of Rhone-style wines is Santa Barbara’s Zaca Mesa. Zaca Mesa was one of the first vineyards in the region, having been established in the Santa Ynez Valley in the early 1970’s. They have released a 2009 Viognier ($20) that offers honey and loads of exotic fruits and a silky texture with a vibrant finish. Their 2007 Roussanne ($25) deals in apricots and figs laced with zippy acidity, full body and an intriguing waxy texture.

Another fine choice is the 2008 Treana White ($25), from one of the leading Paso Robles grower/winemaking families who here has blended Marsanne and Viognier mostly from Monterey’s esteemed Mer Soleil Vineyard into a juicy wine of honeyed citrus and tropical fruits. Washington also is excelling with Rhine varietals. I was especially impressed with Seven Hills 2009 Viognier Talcott Vineyard ($20). The wine explodes with ripe, juicy peach and honeysuckle, with hints of citrus and stone fruits.

Chenin Blanc, native to the Loire Valley, also is a personal favorite. In California, it is usually produced in a fruity, slightly sweet style, though a few brave souls (like Dry Creek Vineyard) make a dry style inspired by the fine wines of Savennieres. I recently tasted for the first time an innovative chenin blanc blend from Pine Ridge, one of the pioneering wineries in the Stags Leap District of Napa Valley. The winery has a reputation as a master at blending. Its 2009 Chenin Blanc + Viognier ($12) is a unique and uniquely successful combination of Clarksburg chenin blanc and Lodi viognier.

The recommendations above are a good start on the summer white wine search. Next comes a quest for Gewurztraminer, Albarino, Verdejo, Torrontes, Pinot Grigio/Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Grenache Blanc, and Pinot Blanc and other good reasons to look forward to spring and summer.

European (And One South African) Reds For Summer Grilling

Although it’s common to think more about white wines as the weather warms, many of us still enjoy a good red, even in summer. I’ve come across several good candidates to match with the season’s grilled and more casual foods.

A fine place to start, maybe to toast the season, is with a bottle of red bubbly. That’s right, red. I suggest the unique Italian sparkler from the Piedmont region known as Brachetto d’Acqui (signifying first the grape, then the town). The 2010 Rosa Regale ($20) from the highly regarded Banfi family is deeply fruited (cherry, strawberry) and exuberant, with refreshingly low alcohol.

As a wine that is generally best slightly chilled, Beaujolais is the ideal red for warm weather. From the northern French region of the same name, Beaujolais is made using a special whole bunch fermentation process solely with the gamay grape, known for a flavor profile of mostly bright red fruits, floral, herbal and mineral notes, and lively acidity. I’ve recently enjoyed several good ones from the highly touted 2009 vintage. Whichever level you choose, Beaujolais represent s one of the best values around.

For a good introduction to the region sample a wine labeled “Beaujolais-Villages.” These are blended from specifically authorized vineyards in the northern of the region. A reliable option here is the 2009 Louis Jadot ($13), which shows a typically lighter but fleshy character with touches of licorice and lively red fruits.

Next try a wine from one of the ten most important villages (or “cru”). Here, a great place to start is with the “Flower Label” wines of Georges Dubeouf, probably the most respected and widely available producer. A good one is the 2009 Morgon ($14), which has richness and depth not often found with many other crus.

There also are single-vineyard Beaujolais that are a real treat for their distinctiveness. Two more from Duboeuf: 2009 Moulin-a-Vent “Tour du Bief” ($17) – quite full and rich, with many layers – and especially 2009 Fleurie “Domaine des Quatre Vents” ($17) – floral, full of ripe fruit, yet balanced and velvety.

From the southern France region of Rousillon near the border with Spain comes another option, this time a blend of so-called Rhone varietals. The 2008 Chateau de Jau Cotes du Roussillon Villages ($16) combines syrah, mourvedre, carignan, and grenache to produce an easy drinking wine of darker fruits and soft tannins.

This time of year, I’m especially fond of Portuguese table wine. While the region surrounding the Douro River in northern Portugal is famous for Port, table wine from the area has become a go-to choice for excellent value. The wines are made with the same varieties used to make Port and even sourced from the same vineyards as each winery’s Port.

The 2008 Dow’s “Valle do Bomfim” ($12) offers bright mixed berry fruit, spicy intrigue and a balance of structure with mellow tannins. The 2008 Quinta de Roriz “Prazo de Roriz” ($17) delivers deep fruit, mostly black cherry, and an appealing mineral note in a stylish frame that also finishes with soft tannins. It probably shouldn’t be a surprise that the region known for making the great Port wines would emerge as a contender in quality table wines.

Finally, for those of you who insist on a Cabernet Sauvignon, I submit the 2008 Glen Carlou “Grand Classique” ($20). South African wines have improved significantly in recent years and this one, Glen Carlou’s signature red wine, is a really fine example of a Bordeaux-style blend. The addition of merlot, petit verdot, malbec and cabernet franc results in a wine with impressive complexity for the price. Strong black cherry and plum wrapped in an oak blanket are accompanied by touches of tobacco and mint. The velvety texture compliments a tight structure.

Whether it’s a classic cab, a hearty Douro, a bottle of Mediterranean sunshine, a refreshing Beaujolais, or an effervescent Italian, you can’t go wrong with red this summer.

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CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIR CONTINUES ITS EVOLUTION

vineyards pinot rich mauro peoples palateThere is something about pinot noir that seems to inspire an almost mad passion about the grape and its wine. It probably has to do with the grape’s notoriously temperamental nature, as well as its legendary ability to reflect the characteristics of the soil, climate and environment in which it is grown (what the French call ”terroir”).

Winemakers seem to be drawn to the dual challenge of making good wine from such a difficult grape that is also a uniquely expressive wine. Unfortunately, most winemakers fail at one or both of these challenges more often than they succeed. But when they do succeed, for winemakers and consumers, it’s like finding the Holy Grail.

The Burgundy region of France has long been prized as the source of the most spectacular Pinot Noir in the world. Pinot Noir from Oregon (which I reviewed in my last post) is now considered by many to be the second best place in the world to grow the grape. However, knowledgeable wine consumers know that California can produce Pinot Noir that rivals and even exceeds that of Burgundy and Oregon.

With producers identifying more appropriate growing sites (namely cooler climates with longer growing seasons that enable the grapes to ripen while retaining good acidity), matching better quality clones to particular sites, cultivating with extra care, and employing improved vinification techniques, there are countless good to outstanding wines now available for consumers. Yet my recent tastings of California pinot noirs from the 2007, 2008 and 2009 vintages demonstrated the quixotic nature of the quest for the Pinot Noir grail.

California Pinot Noir producers still have a challenge in getting the price/quality relationship right. Certainly, California Pinots are good in their own right and are (often significantly) less expensive than Burgundy. It’s just that Pinot Noir generally is not the wine to choose if you are looking for a good price/quality ratio. Still, my tastings did turn up more good values than the last time I did a major review of California Pinot Noir.

Style wise, most California Pinot Noir is vinified darker, fruitier, more concentrated and larger scaled than Burgundy’s reference point. But I think I detected the beginnings of a stylistic shift among winemakers. The best wines in the tasting delivered more elegance, finesse and earthy complexity than I’ve tasted previously, while still containing mouthfilling flavors and intense perfume.

My recent tastings included a representative sampling of California’s major pinot noir growing regions. Recommendations are presented moving from north to south. My favorites are in bold but all wines are recommended in their price range.

First, I found two wines labeled with just a “California” designation. Such wines are most likely to sport an every day price. The 2008 Murphy-Goode ($14) and 2009 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve ($18) of good varietal character for the money.

Mendocino County is best known to this palate for fine Zinfandel and Gewurztraminer but in recent years has taken its place among the top sources of Pinot Noir, especially from the Anderson Valley. The 2007 Paul Dolan, made from organic grapes, ($30) was the only Mendocino wine in my tastings but it showed admirable depth, richness and balance.

Sonoma County contains arguably the most abundant sources for Pinot Noir in the state. Combined, the Russian River Valley, Sonoma Coast and western part of Carneros account for probably more outstanding Pinot Noir than anywhere else in the state.

The Russian River Valley, which stretches through central Sonoma County, produces many of California’s most celebrated and expensive Pinot Noirs.

  • 2009 Rodney Strong ($20). This pioneering Sonoma winery is making the best wines in its 40+ year history, up and down its extensive portfolio.
  • 2009 Davis Bynum ($35). Making Pinot in the valley since 1973, now part of the Jess Jackson empire.
  • 2008 Sequana Dutton Ranch ($40). This winery is anther successful venture from the owners of the Hess Collection in Napa Valley.
  • 2007 Patz & Hall Chenoweth ($55) This 20 year-old Chardonnay and Pinot Noir specialist sources fruit from around the state to make almost exclusively single-vineyard bottlings.

The Sonoma Coast is California’s newest “hot” region for Pinot Noir. It is a large area but already contains several of the state’s most respected vineyards.

  • 2009 La Crema ($24). This thirty year Pinot and Chardonnay specialist continues to craft fine examples of the grape.
  • 2008 MacRostie ($30)
  • 2007 MacRostie Wildcat Mountain ($40). Winemaker Steve MacRostie, who established his own operation in 1987 in Carneros, now is making impressive wines from this new vineyard.
  • 2007 Patz & Hall ($42)

Carneros straddles southern Napa andSonoma and has become a popular source of chardonnay and pinot noir, thanks to the moderating influence of the San Pablo Bay.

  • 2008 Domaine Carneros ($35). This excellent sparkling wine producer has fashioned this wine from organic grapes.
  • 2007 Patz & Hall Hyde ($60)

California’s Central Coast also has emerged as a wellspring of outstanding, though often outstandingly expensive Pinot Noir. Several regions deserve attention.

Certain microclimates of Monterey County have been cultivated successfully by small, quality minded producers. Two wines crafted from selected vineyards within Monterey – 2009 La Crema ($24) and 2008 Pali “Summit” (Monterey and Santa Barbara blend, $29), from a fairly new negociant and Brian Loring, one of the state’s most respected pinot winemakers – are a good introduction to the region.

The Arroyo Seco region in the southwestern corner of the county has produced some good Pinots, like the 2008 J. Lohr “Fog’s Reach” ($35), a fine single vineyard wine from one of the state’s larger wineries. But its the Santa Lucia Highlands overlooking the Salinas Valley that especially has emerged as prime Pinot country, producing some of the state’s most dramatic and sought after Pinot Noirs.

  • 2008 Kali Hart ($21). This is a second label for Talbott Vineyards, one of the stat’s most prestigious Chardonnay producers. Named after the owner’s youngest daughter, this Pinot is made in an approachable style using estate fruit.
  • 2008 Alta Maria ($25)
  • 2008 Sequana “Sarmento” ($32)
  • 2008 Highflyer “Doctor’s” ($38). This comes from the same group that is producing exciting wines under the Sommerston and Priest Ranch labels.
  • 2008 Talbott “Sleepy Hollow” ($40). The is the signature vineyard from this Monterey winemaking pioneer and fine clothing purveyor.
  • 2007 Patz & Hall “Pisoni” ($80)

Farther south, in San Louis Obispo County, the Arroyo Grande Valley and the Edna Valley often are overlooked but produce some fine Pinot Noir. Unfortunately, none were included in my tasting.

Next to Sonoma, Santa Barbara County has emerged as one of the state’s premier Pinot Noir regions, with two great Pinot Noir AVAs.  The 2009 Byron Santa Barbara County ($17) offers a good preview of the structure concentration, and ripe flavors typical of the area.

At the northern end of the county, the Santa Maria Valley is home to the famous Bien Nacido Vineyard and a growing number of impressive vineyards. The valley also sources a growing number of wineries. My tastings revealed an impressive portfolio from Byron, one of the pioneers of the area. Byron planted the first vineyard to vinifera grapes in Santa Barbara County in 1964 and has been in the forefront of winemaking achievement in the area ever since.

  • 2008 Santa Maria Valley ($26)
  • 2008 Nielson ($34)
  • 2008 Bien Nacido ($40)
  • 2008 Sierra Madre ($40)
  • 2008 Julia’s Vineyard ($40)
  • 2008 Monument ($60)

Santa Barbara County not surprisingly has experienced the Sideways effect more than any other region, not surprising given that the movie was set there. But the Santa Ynez Valley and the Santa Maria Valley in particular had become recognized for some of the state’s best Pinot Noirs long before the movie. Certain growing areas within Santa Barbara County recently have produced such quality that the county can now contend with Sonoma as California’s best Pinot Noir region.

At the northern end of the county, the Santa Maria Valley benchlands are home to the famous Bien Nacido Vineyard and a growing number of pinot noir vineyards.

From a narrow opening near the Pacific Ocean, the Santa Ynez Valley broadens inland encompassing the vineyards and wineries that inspired the movie “Sideways.” The Santa Rita Hills in the western end of the valley, the home of the celebrated Sanford & Benedict vineyard, has garnered special attention in recent years. The ten-year-old hillside vineyard of Sea Smoke is producing some of the area’s best grapes. Rather than focusing on bottlings of individual blocks, Sea Smoke crafts different expressions of the site. These two new releases, while different (Southing is more elegant and seductive; Ten is more powerful and extracted) are both breathtaking.

  • 2008 Sea Smoke Southing ($52)
  • 2008 Sea Smoke Ten ($80) 
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BUBBLES AND ROSES FOR VALENTINE’S DAY

I have to admit my wife and I aren’t big on most holidays or special occasions. Frankly, we’re put off by the commercialism. That’s especially true this time of year. Having just made it through Halloween, Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Years, we’ve been facing the Valentine’s Day onslaught for a month now.

It’s not that we have anything intrinsically against these holidays. It’s just that it is hard to find the meaning behind all the commercialism and we prefer to take the road less traveled.

For example, if we go out at all on New Year’s Eve, we go early and come home early. We’re more likely to stay home; make dinner for ourselves; and, of course, open a bottle or two of wine. The same goes for Valentine’s Day, our anniversary, and our birthdays.

Of course, one thing about holidays and special occasions is that they do provide prime opportunities to open a special bottle of wine. For many people, and I count myself among them, Champagne (or other good sparkling wine) is a classic choice for making any special occasion even more special.

Certainly, it is a prime choice for toasting the occasion but Valentine’s Day also is the perfect time for drinking bubbly throughout the meal. The combination of good acidity, intense fruit, and, of course, effervescence make for a most versatile combination. And don’t forget that some of the best sparkling wines are rosés (which in Champagne typically are a blend of red wine from pinot noir/pinot meunier and white wine from chardonnay).

A fine choice for Champagne would be the Nicolas Feuillatte NV Brut Rosé ($36). It reveals an intensity of red fruits to the senses that signify the passion of the evening. But the NV Brut ($36), which relies more on pinot noir and pinot meunier than many NV Brut, also is a fine choice. It offers cherry notes but also pear and citrus, accented with floral and hazelnut elements that all merge to suggest the fresh flavors and elegance that tickle the palate. A fun option for those going casual or who just want one glass each is the inexplicably named One Fo(u)r, a 2-pack of mini bottles (one Brut & one Rosé, $30).

Sparkling Wine from California can be a god alternative. The Domaine Carneros NV Brut Rosé Cuvée de la Pompadour ($35) opens up with a delightful strawberry cream bouquet that creates a sense of anticipation more than realized in the racy, playful palate.

Gloria Ferrer’s NV Blanc de Noirs ($20) tantalizes with sweet sensations of red fruits. Then presents a voluptuous palate that finishes with a delightful zest. The NV Brut ($20) goes more for the smooth, sleek approach. It balances perky fruit with a stylish texture that invites you to indulge.

Of course, Champagne and California sparklers are the obvious choices. If you like to shake things up and experiment, you could try an Alsatian bubbly, known as Crémant d’Alsace. But these bubbles are no consolation prize. Crémant typically is light and fruity but offers a nice measure of complexity.

The best place to start is Lucien Albrecht, the largest Crémant producer. The Brut Rosé ($20) is all pinot noir and has the finesse and flexibility to assume any position throughout a meal. The all pinot blanc Brut Blanc de Blancs ($20) is lithe and supple and would do nicely as a prelude to the main course.

Another adventurous selection would be Prosecco (also the name of the grape) from the Veneto. Prosecco makes a great aperitif but can perform well all evening. The attraction is in its light, fresh aromas and clean, delicate fruit, and low alcohol. I’ve recently been enamored of Valdo’s Nerello Mascalese Rosé ($14) in which the nerello grape adds color and spice to the blend and Valdo’s Brut ($15) for its tart green apple flavors.

Actually, now that I think of it, with all this great wine to drink, maybe having all these holidays and special occasions isn’t such a bad idea after all.

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Paso Robles Emerges As World Class Wine, Food, Travel Destination

Five years ago when I first visited Paso Robles I thought the area showed great promise as a viticultural zone. A recent visit as part of a group of journalists assembled by the Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance showed me how much the area has matured as a grape growing, winemaking and culinary destination. And how much promise there is for even more progress.

Paso Robles is the largest American Viticultural Area (AVA) in California. It is also the name of the main town of about 30,000, whose original name was El Paso del

Robles (“Passage of the Oaks”). But, after my recent visit to the area, I think Paso could just be short for “passion.”

From our home base at the elegant Hotel Cheval, just off the square in downtown Paso, we visited a wide variety of vineyards, wineries, restaurants and other food purveyors

Dinner the first night was at Artisan in downtown Paso where Chef Chris Kobayashi (who has cooking credentials from San Francisco and the Napa Valley restaurants) crafts dishes as much as possible from seasonal, locally grown ingredients from small producers.

We were joined by the following “pioneers”:

• Jason Haas, whose father, the respected importer Robert Haas and the Perrin brothers of the esteemed Chateau Beaucastel established Tablas Creek in 1989, kicking off Paso’s journey to becoming a Rhone varietal mecca.

• Justin Baldwin, who with his wife Deborah established Justin Vineyards in 1981and turned it into a popular destination with an elegant inn and gourmet restaurant, while showing Paso can produce great Bordeaux varietal-based wines.

• Steve Lohr, son of Jerry Lohr, founder of J. Lohr, which moved into Paso in 1988 and has grown into one of the area’s largest and most widely available labels, while building a reputation for excellent value.

Continuing the pioneer theme, our tours the next day took us to two of the area’s oldest farming families. We began the day at Steinbeck Vineyards where six generations have farmed what is now 500 acres of vines. Cindy (Steinbeck) Newkirk explained their sustainable farming practices and noted that they sell 99 percent of their grapes to such producers as Eberle, Justin, J. Lohr, and Treana. The family decided to open their own winery in 2005 and now release their own wines (Cabernet Sauvignon, Viognier, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, and The Crash made by longtime area winemaker Steve Glossner) with the other one percent.

Cindy also explained her foray into “agritourism” with the creation of The Wine Yard, a classroom in the vineyard offering an historical overview of the region, vineyard jeep tours and viticultural education.

The next stop was a particular treat for the Zinfandel lover (not to mention the Italian) in me: the legendary Dusi vineyard. The Dusi family tradition in Paso began in 1923 when Great Grandparents Sylvester and Catarina Dusi purchased a ranch on the east side of the Salians River (which today roughly parallels Highway 101) and began planting zinfandel vines. This property, farmed for many years by their son Benito and today by his son Mike has supplied the fruit for the celebrated Ridge Paso Robles Zinfandels since 1976. I have fond memories of drinking many of those Ridge wines over the years.

Benito’s brother Dante planted another zinfandel vineyard on the west side in 1945 and can still be seen driving a tractor through the head pruned, dry farmed vines (I have a picture to prove it!). It was here that we sampled several Dusi Zinfandels from new Paso-based wineries in an enlightening tasting that presented examples of the character of the Vineyard – usually bold, dramatic, spicy, intense.

• J. Dusi. Dante’s granddaughter Janell pays tribute to her grandfather and family heritage by adding intriguing Carignane, Grappa and Port to the regular Zinfandel.

• Four Vines. Winemaker Christian Tietje and his partners have cultivated a eccentric image with flamboyant labels that match the flashy wines.

• Grey Wolf. This family-owned winery founded by Joe and Shirlene Barton in 1994 now has son Joe as its winemaker. He makes a wide range of Zinfandels, Rhone-style wines, as well as cabernet-based wines.

• Turley. This has been an iconic name in California winemaking ever since they released their first wines in 1993. There are now dozens of Turley Zinfandels from all over the state. But they thought so highly of Paso, they bought the old Pesenti vineyard and established a winery here. Malani Anderson, representing the company, presented their amazingly pure Dusi Zin.

We followed these tours with lunch at Thomas Hill Organics a friendly, casual market-bistro two blocks from the downtown square that served spectacularly fresh food, not surprising since it much of it came from their own organic farm. Joeli Yaguda of Pasolivo, a gourmet olive oil company, also treated us to a fascinating tasting of locally grown olive oils.

Alex and Monica Villicana joined us to share wines from their Villicana winery. Although Alex and Monica were SoCal folks, their connection to Paso goes back to 1990 when Alex began working harvests there. Six years later, they purchased property, planted a vineyard and in 2002 moved their family to Paso to focus full time on their winery. They make very interesting wines and even share a tasting room with Pasolivo.

Dinner that night was at the home of L’Aventure owner/winemaker Stephan Asseo and his wife Beatrice. Also attending were close friends and neighboring vintners Terry and Jennifer Hoage, of Terry Hoage Vineyards, and Marc Goldberg and Maggie D’Ambrosia, of Windward Vineyard. This was a smart move by the alliance, as these friends amply demonstrated the camaraderie of the Paso Robles wine community. Local chef and caterer Jeffrey Scott prepared the meal, with food sourced from within a 30-mile radius of Paso Robles. Here is additional information about these three outstanding wineries.

• After beginning his winemaking career in Bordeaux but becoming frustrated with the strictures of Bordeaux law, Stephan and Beatrice searched California for a place to locate their own winery. In 1997, they decided Paso Robles was ideal and L’Aventure has become one of Paso’s most celebrated wineries. Asseo crafts some of the most highly sought after wines from the area. His innovative blends – varying combinations of cabernet sauvignon, petite verdot and Rhone varietals.

• After a 13-year NFL career, Terry Hoage and his wife Jennifer, who had been an interior designer, decided on new careers as vintners. They established Terry Hoage Vineyards with the purchase of a vineyard in 2002 and have quickly gained wide recognition for their solely Rhone-style w

ines (of course, all with clever football-related names).

• It’s something you don’t hear much in this region but at Windward Marc Goldberg and Maggie D’Ambrosia produce fine Pinot Noir and only Pinot Noir. Attracted by the success that Dr. Stanley Hoffman and the great Andre Tchelistcheff had with the storied Hoffman Mountain Rnach Pinot Noirs of the 1960s and 1970s, they came to Paso in 1990 to realize a life long dream to make high quality, Burgundian-style pinot.

The next morning showcased Paso’s current claim to fame and what many believe to be the region’s future: Rhone varietals. A panel of nine winemakers/owners gathered at Hope Family Wines to present wines representing the quality and diversity of Rhone-style wines from the region.

• Viognier from Thatcher, whose winemaker Sherman Thatcher, is a former craft brewer who also produces distinctive Zinfandel and Rhone-style wines.

• Roussanne from Kenneth Volk, the founder of Wild Horse winery, who has been committed to Paso since 1981. Although his new, eponymous winery is located

in Santa Barbara, he produces his Bordeaux-style wines and most of his Rhone style wines from Paso fruit.

• Cote du Robles Blanc (roussanne and Grenache blanc) from Eberle. Gary Eberle’s history in Paso reaches back to 1973 and his own winery dates to 1979. Even as attention is paid to the many new Paso wineries, pioneers like Eberle continue to deserve attention.

• A Rhone blend Rose from Anglim, a mostly Rhone focused winery worth your attention, especially the blends.

• Grenache from Austin Hope. The Hope family has been respected grape growers in the region since 1978. Now under the direction of son Austin, the family also produces Treana, Liberty School, and Candor wines.

• “Damas Noir” Mourvedre from Villa Creek. The owners established a popular restaurant in downtown Paso Robles in 1997 and gradually moved into winemaking. Both are worth seeking out.

• Cuvee des Cinc (five Rhone varietals) from Edward Sellers. Ed and his wife Dani left other careers to come to Paso in 2003 and now specialize in Rhone-style win

es, particularly several innovative blends.

• Petite Sirah from Vina Robles. Here is another European transplant, this time from Switzerland, that recognized the potential for great wine from Paso Robles. A Paso resident for 12 years now, Vina Robles produces a wide ranges of wines.

After the tasting, we had lunch outdoors at Farmstand 46, a gourmet deli and the only restaurant (not counting winery cafes) located among the cluster of wineries best accessed from Highway 46 West. This oasis is a collaboration by the owners of Four Vines and the Executive Chef

of Villa Creek restaurant.

Besides location, they really have created a great thing here. The vegetables and herbs come almost exclusively from their own organic garden planted on the property. Most of the meats come from local producers. And the pizzas! We had a delightful lunch of gourmet pizzas cooked in the outdoor wood-fired oven.

After lunch, we made the 45-minute drive to the Hearst Ranch, where about a 1000 cattle graze on the 150,000 acres surrounding the famous Hearst Castle near San Simeon. The ranch is dedicated to producing grass fed beef for its healthier composition, better taste, and its benefits for animal welfare and the environment. And we washed down our juicy samples of beef with wines from the new Hearst Winery.

We finished our day in the seaside village of Cayucos where we enjoyed a special dinner at the gorgeous Cass House Inn & Restaurant. Chef Jensen Lorenzen, who works closely with local farmers and foragers, prepared the meal. We were joined the owners of four of Paso’s newest wineries.

• Co-owner Karl Wittstrom of Ancient Peaks, which was established in 2005 and boasts the southernmost vineyard in the Paso Robles AVA. The property also includes a working cattle ranch.

• Aram Deirmenjian of Kiamie, who comes from a family of table grape growers, founded Kiamie in 2004 with partner Greg Johnson. Aram believes that blends are the future of Paso wine. So, that’s all winemaker Steve Glosser makes, and he may just prove Aram right.

• Kevin Jussila of Kukkula. Jussila and his family moved from southern California to Paso in 2004. They now produce Zinfandel, Rhone varietals and Cabernet Sauvignon, which soon will be certified organic.

• Neil Collins of Lone Madrone. Neil, who has been the winemaker at Tablas Creek since 1998, has also been making Lone Madrone wine with his sister Jackie Meisinger since 1996.

Surely, Paso Robles has seen impressive winery growth. There were approximately 35 wineries in 1995, 50 in 2000, 100 in 2005, and around 200 today. But that is only the beginning of this region’s story. there are six basic reasons why this region in the Central Coast of California may just be the next great wine destination.

Terroir. There are more calcareous soils (limestone soils highly prized by vintners) than anywhere else in California. It has one of the greatest diurnal temperature swings (often 40-50 degrees between day and night). It has one of the longest, most consistent growing seasons. And there is a wide diversity of soils, topography and microclimates.

Fruit. There is a foundational grape – zinfandel – that has long drawn attention to the region. The region now is emerging as the best source of Rhone-style wines outside of the Rhone itself. And it still produces large quantities of cabernet sauvignon that provides a base for many producers all over California.

Location. Paso Robles is centrally located about half way between Los Angeles and San Francisco. It is just 10-20 miles east of the Pacific Ocean, several quaint seaside villages, and the Hearst Castle. It is also a relatively short drive to Monterey in the north and Santa Barbara in the south.

Food. During this visit, we were treated to an amazing variety and quality of raw ingredients – some of the freshest, purest I’ve ever tasted – and some of the most creative cooking. I was impressed by the extent to which almost everyone had embraced sustainable practices.

People. Passionate, dedicated growers and vintners – families who have made Paso their home for generations and who are being joined by a new generation who has chosen to come to this place because of its beauty and potential (see above) but also because of the camaraderie among the producers.

Hospitality. Ninety percent of the wineries make 5000 case or less. They are family run businesses. And you are likely to find one of those family members there when you visit the winery.

For these reasons, I believe Paso Robles may be the next great wine region, if it isn’t already. Anyone looking for a wine country vacation should put Paso Robles at the top of their list.