AMERICAN BORDEAUX-STYLE RED BLENDS WORTH A TASTE

Napa vineyards peoples palate rich mauroGiven the international prestige of Bordeaux, it is not surprising that other winemakers would have an interest in imitating that region’s successful winemaking formula. The Bordeaux tradition of blending different grape varieties to create a complete, more multidimensional wine has long captivated the imagination of winemakers and the taste buds of wine drinkers.

This is also true in California, even though varietally labeled wines have dominated the market. Certainly, winemakers and wine drinkers have had and continue to have something of a love affair with Cabernet Sauvignon. And many still appreciate a good Merlot. But most of the wines labeled as such are likely to include at least a small percentage of the other, as well as the other traditional Bordeaux varieties: cabernet franc, malbec and petit verdot.

In this column, I focus on wines that are intentionally Bordeaux-style blends, not varietal wines with dollops of the other varieties. Most of these wines carry a proprietary name, although some are labeled “Meritage” (a designation established for such California blends in the late 1980s and pronounced like “heritage”). While Cabernet Sauvignon usually is the dominant component, the other varieties will show up in larger quantities than for a varietally labeled wine.

And these wines may be growing in popularity. In my research, I found a market analysis of wine trends reprting that the “red blends/Meritage wines grew by 14% over all price categories. It was the fastest growing varietal category” over the year.

My favorite wine from my recent tasting came from Seven Hills Winery in the Walla Walla Valley. When Casey and Vicky McClellan founded the winery in 1988, it was only the fifth in the area that now boasts over 100 producers. And Seven Hills has become one of Washington state’s most highly regarded wineries crafting exceptional merlot, cabernet sauvignon and syrah, riesling and pinot gris.

The Bordeaux blend is labeled “Pentad.” The 2006 ($50) combines 65% cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot, carmenère, cabernet franc and malbec from Walla Walla vineyards. It is a great example of the type, full-bodied, rich, andcomplex. Abundant fruit of dark berries and currants are accented with spicy herbal notes and balancing acidity.

The entry from the Dry Creek Vineyard was nearly as good. Founded by David Stare in 1972, this is one of the modern day pioneers of Dry Creek Valley wine. While a variety of wines are made, the winery built its reputation on Sauvignon Blanc and Zinfandel. But don’t ignore its Meritage wine “The Mariner.” The 2006 ($40) is 50% cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec, petit verdot from Dry Creek Valley vineyards. Its ripe dark fruits (plum, black cherry, currant, berries) meld with layers of black licorice, mineral and spice. It has a somewhat dry and rustic feel, though, that is a nice counterpoint.

Not far behind and a particularly good value is Bennett Lane’s “Maximus Red Feasting Wine.” Bennett Lane is the project of Randy and Lisa Lynch, owners of a successful marketing company and a NASCAR West team, who purchased the property in 2002. The 2006 Maximus ($35) blends 64% cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah, malbec, cabernet franc and petit verdot from vineyard sources up and down the Napa Valley. It is fairly full-bodied with firm tannins and shows deep fruit, including currant and blackberry but also hints of wood, licorice and cocoa.

Finally, a pleasant surprise came from Ironstone Vineyards. Owned by the Kautz family, who were long time farmers in the Sierra Foothills between Sacramento and Lake Tahoe, the family decided in 1988 to make their own wines. The 2006 Reserve Meritage ($45), which is 80% cabernet sauvignon plus equal parts merlot and petite verdot, opens with intense leafy notes (mint, forest, tobacco). This is followed by black cherry and blackberry flavors delivered in a dry, firm structure.

Try any of these wines and you will get a good sense of the balance and complexity that can be achieved through the craft of blending different varietals. And you will taste the synergy winemakers can achieve in creating a product that embodies the classic sentiment of the whole being greater than the sum of its parts.

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