Tag: chardonnay

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HOPE FAMILY SHOWCASES THE BEST OF PASO ROBLES

On a recent press trip to Paso Robles, sponsored by Hope Family Wines, our host Austin Hope set the tone for the visit when he said it was his goal to show us the diversity of the region, not just his wines. I welcomed this, not only because Hope’s wines have long been among my favorites but also because I had been to Paso twice before and was eager to see how the region has developed.

 

Paso Robles is the largest American Viticultural Area (AVA) in California. It is also the name of the main town of about 30,000, whose original name was El Paso del Robles (“Passage of the Oaks”). But, after my visits to the area, I think Paso could just be short for “passion.

Austin Hope oversees Hope Family Wines (www.hopefamilywines.com), a family-owned and -operated enterprise encompassing five brands: Liberty School, Treana, Candor, Austin Hope and Troublemaker wines. Austin’s father, Chuck Hope moved his family from the Central Valley to Paso in 1978 to plant wine grapes pioneering families of the region. After growing grapes and developing vineyards throughout the eighties and early nineties, the family became convinced Paso Robles was capable of producing world-class wines and began producing their own wines.

 

They joined a handful of other pioneering families who helped promote the region, not just as a source of fine quality grapes but also as a complete wine travel destination. Today, Austin and Hope Family Wines also epitomize Paso Robles’ reputation for being on the cutting edge, a reputation Austin has fostered by experimenting with Rhone-style blends and multiple vintage wines.

At a tour of the Huerhuero Vineyard, a longtime source for entry level Liberty School wines, on the Eastside of Paso Robles, and of the nearby Hope Family Wines winemaking facility, we learned from General Manager of Vineyard Operations Suhky Sran, Winemaker J.C. Diefenderfer, and Assistant Winemaker Samantha Taylor about the family’s role in developing vineyards throughout Paso Robles and how they work with over 50 family-owned vineyards to produce fruit for the Liberty School wines. The brand had bee created in the 1970’s by the Wagner family of Napa’s Caymus Vineyards and the Hopes collaborated with the Wagners since the late 1980’s to supply cabernet sauvignon grapes. He Hope’s then took over sole responsibility for the brand in 1996.

 

Today, there is a range of varietals that deliver consistent quality for the money and are regularly recognized as a “Good Values” and “Best Buys.” Look for Cabernet Sauvignon (2010, $14), Chardonnay wines (2011, $14), Pinot Noir ($20), and Liberty School Merlot ($16). The wines are made in a more restrained, food friendly style with forward fruit, good varietal character, and moderate alcohol.

 

The Hopes then established Treana Winery in 1996, to produce high-end Rhone-style blends from Paso Robles and Central Coast fruit. JC explained to us the name Treana symbolizes the trinity of natural elements – sun, soil and ocean – that make Paso Robles and the Central Coast exceptional for growing wine grapes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

To give us a flavor for what this means, we toured the Mer Soleil Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands near Salinas (our only stop outside of Paso Robles). This Monterey County-based vineyard is the long-time major source for Treana White, one of the first white Rhone-style blends and still one of the most highly regarded. The current vintage (2011, $23) is a blend of equal parts viognier and marsanne. Floral and tropical aromatics precede ripe pear and honey flavors combined with a lush texture and balancing acidity.

 

The Treana Red (2010, $45), which Austin considers his flagship wine, is a blend of cabernet sauvignon and syrah. It combines the depth and structure of a Cab, with the fullness and class of syrah. It is a perfect example of Austin’s willingness to work outside-the-box. Not many wineries were combining Rhone and Bordeaux blends when he created this wine almost twenty years ago.

The Hopes also own a vineyard on the Westside of Paso Robles planted primarily to syrah and grenache, with some mourvedre. Austin crafts wines inspired by the Northern Rhône Valley from this estate grown fruit. Known as the Hope Family Vineyard, it is located 20 miles east of the Pacific Ocean in the Templeton Gap district of Paso Robles. The site’s rocky soils of clay and limestone make it ideal for the Rhône varietals to which it is planted.

 

At this site, we were given a fascinating overview of the sustainable farming practices – certified by Sustainability in Practice (SIP), www.sipcertified.com – employed in the vineyard. Beth Vukmanic Lopez, Sustainability in Practice Certification Manager explained how for over 15 years, SIP has helped growers, vineyards and consumers rethink their approach to sustainability. As Beth said, SIP Certified sustainable vineyards and wines is about looking at the whole farm and considering “people, planet and profit.” In this sense, SIP is complementary to organic practices, not necessarily a replacement. Of course, a winery needs to make a profit to stay in business but that is closely tied to the quality of the wines, which depends on the quality of the grapes, which is connected to healthy vineyards. But SIP practices also consider the well being of the vineyard and winery workers, an often over looked factor. An important element to the success of the program is the third party certification SIP provides using independent auditors.

 

At the winery and tasting room on site, we enjoyed a barrel tasting of 2012 vintage Austin Hope Syrah and Grenache. Austin told us he uses traditional Côte-Rotie as his benchmark in making his syrah. But, being in California, he added he likes his wines to taste like the old world wines “but with a little bit more.”

This approach showed through the current vintages we tasted. The Syrah (2010, $42) displayed a balance of savory and fruit elements. Aromatic, intense and full-bodied, it also was elegant with pure berry fruit, licorice and earthy complexity. The Grenache (2010, $42) revealed characteristics of dried red fruits, earth and spices with good concentration, firm acidity and soft tannins.

 

The Hopes haven’t stopped to rest on these successful brands. Another label, “Candor” was created in 2008. These multi-vintage wines, a Merlot and Zinfandel, are crafted from specially selected fruit from a variety of Central Coast vineyards. They exhibit excellent varietal flavor at a reasonable price. We tasted the Zinfandel Lot 4 ($20) and Merlot Lot 3 ($20), which I found notable for their true varietal flavor and fresh, bright fruit.

 

Finally, the newest label in the Hope Family stable, “Troublemaker,” places Austin Hope’s creativity and willingness to challenge convention on full display. Troublemaker Blend 6 ($20) is a multi-vintage montage of 50% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Zinfandel and 10% Petite Sirah. Its profile reflected its name with brash fruit and lively texture.

While it was great to learn about all the Hope wines, the trip was made really special by the inclusion of visits to some of Paso Robles most notable artisan producers and restaurants.

 

Villa Creek (www.villacreek.com) has long been a destination restaurant for Paso Robles.

Artisan (www.artisanpasorobles.com) grows some of its ingredients at a local organic farm and showcased a distinctive wine on tap program.

Thomas Hill Organics (www.thomashillorganics.com) is a casual market-bistro that serves spectacularly fresh food, not surprising since most of it comes from their own organic farm.

Il Cortile Ristorante (www.ilcortileristorante.com) features exceptional homemade pastas, fresh seafood, and top-quality meats.

 

All of the restaurants craft dishes as much as possible from seasonal, locally grown ingredients from small producers, much of it organically or sustainably farmed. At these restaurants, farm-to-table is not just a marketing slogan. They live it every day. I will say without hesitation these places are as good as the best restaurants in any city in the nation.

 

And as if that wasn’t enough, to give us a sampling of the top quality artisan products being produced in the area we also toured two special places.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A visit to the Kiler Ridge Olive Farm (http://kilerridge.com) with founders Audrey Burnam & Gregg Bone was eye opening. Although it is just minutes from downtown Paso Robles the hilly, picturesque location transports visitors to another location, specifically Italy. Kiler Ridge uses sustainable farming practices and currently maintains 2,500 olive trees – varieties originating from Italy and Sicily.

 

Gregg and Audrey were gracious hosts. Gregg provided us with an extensive overview of his production process and explained in amazing detail why most of the “extra virgin” olive oil we buy in the supermarket isn’t really, regardless of what’s on the label.

 

It was particularly enlightening to me to actually taste the difference. The Kiler Ridge oils were noticeably fresher and displayed distinct grassy and peppery flavors. Greg explained this is because his oils have much higher polyphenol content – he even said, “I’m a polyphenol producer, not an olive oil producer.” Polyphenols are strong antioxidants with many health benefits. Bottom line, though, the oils were delicious but admittedly might be an acquired taste for some consumers used to blander commercial oils.

 

And they presented us with the most eye opening taste sensation I have hade in years: vanilla ice cream topped with sea salt, my choice of Kiler Ridge olive oil and balsamic syrup. All I can say is “wow!” It was delicious with all the savory and sweet elements melding together beautifully.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We also took a refreshing break from winetasting for a tour of the Firestone Walker Brewery (www.firestonebeer.com) with Brewmaster Matt Brynildson. Firestone Walker (named for owners Adam Firestone and David Walker) has been brewing since 1996 but moved from Santa Barbara to Paso Robles in 2001. Firestone Walker and Brewmaster Brynildson are one of the nation’s most awarded breweries and are particularly notable for their use of barrel fermentation for several of their ales.

 

I wholeheartedly recommend the next time you are considering a vacation to wine country, make Paso Robles your destination. The number of wineries has grown from about forty 25 years ago to over 200 (mostly small and family-owned) today. But that is only the beginning of this region’s story. Passionate, dedicated artisan producers with a commitment to sustainability are to be found everywhere in the region.

 

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FOOD & WINE MAGAZINE BRINGS THE WORLD OF WINE TO ASPEN

While the cooking demonstrations and wine seminars are the foundation of the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen, another hallmark of the Classic is all the receptions, parties, and other special events. This year was no exception. I had so many invitations, I just couldn’t make them all … and believe me I tried.

 

But I still had many opportunities to discover new wines and meet new winemakers. For me, one of the best things about the Classic is the opportunity it presents to meet winemakers and winery owners and to taste wines from producers whom I seldom or never get a chance to try.

For instance, I had a chance to sit down with Michael Martini, the third generation winemaker for the Louis M. Martini Winery in the Napa Valley. Michael, who has been the winemaker for this family (a family that has an over 100 year old history of winemaking in California) since 1977, was anxious to tell me about (and have me taste) his wines. Mariola Varona Bayola, the Export Manager for Bodegas Martin Codax, also joined us. Martín Códax is a 27 year old Spanish winery that is best known for its Albariño. Confused that representatives of a California winery and a Spanish winery both were at this meeting? Don’t be, both are now owned by the Gallo family. And both were delightful lunch companions. And their wines – Martini Cabs and Codax Albariño – were equally enjoyable.

 

It was a treat to be able to attend a reserve tasting moderated by Master Sommelier Richard Betts on “The Extraordinary Wines of California’s Sine Qua Non.” Now, if you have never heard of Sine Qua Non, don’t worry. That just means you are not a wine geek. Sine Qua Non is a “cult wine” among the cult wines. You can only buy them if you first get on their mailing list and then wait only God knows how long to get in. Maybe you can find one on a restaurant wine list but it probably will cost hundreds of dollars. This is what is special about these reserve tasting’s. They offer rare opportunities to taste equally rare and extraordinary wines.

All of the wines we tasted reflected differing blends of various Rhone varietals – the reds presented different expressions of syrah and grenache, while the whites showed off combinations of roussanne, viognier, and chardonnay. My key take away from the tasting is that the wines definitely lived up to their hype. First and foremost, all six wines showed off beautiful fruit. The use of oak showed in balance with the depth of fruit and acidity.

 

It’s a ritual every year to wander the Grand Tasting Tent, where producers from all over the world display their wares, in the hopes of making new discoveries. As with previous years, I ended up on a sort of world tour. I don’t have room to list all the wines tasted but here are a few highlights.

Although Australia is best known for many great Shiraz, I’m glad I was persuaded to take the road less traveled and try some really outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. From Penley Estate, a highly regarded winery in the Coonawarra region of South Australia, I enjoyed the “Phoenix” and Reserve Cabs and chatting with Proprietor/Chief Winemaker Kym Tolley. From the Yarra Valley region of Victoria, I really was impressed with Pinot Noirs from Giant Steps and Innocent Bystander, partly because one usually doesn’t think of great Pinot Noir from Australia but also because Owner/Winemaker Phil Sexton was pouring and explaining the wines. Before leaving Australia, I found one more wine I also highly recommend: the Vasse Felix “Heytesbury” Cabernet Sauvignon from the Margaret river region of Southwestern Australia.

 

Representing Portugal, the Esporão Assobio, which is made predominantly from touriga nacional, tinta roriz and touriga franca grapes, is a distinguished single vineyard red worthy of any serious wine drinker. If you think the only Portugal wine worth drinking is Port (and Port is great stuff), think again. There is a lot of great Portuguese dry table wine and Assobio is one of the best.

 

Wines from Spain for many years has hosted a whole tent as a separate location within the Grand Tasting park and it is always a great place to hunt for new wines. This year I was especially impressed with the wines at the “Drink Ribera” (that’s Ribera del Duero, one of Spain’s most important regions). My favorites were the Bodegas Montecastro, from high altitude vineyards, and Alejandro Fernandez Tinto Pesquera, from a pioneer of modern Spanish wine. Both are excellent representations of tempranillo, Spain’s most distinguished grape.

 

I finished my tour in the tent tasting several California wines, with the highlights being the following, all really outstanding, wines:

 

  • 2011 Franciscan Cuvée Sauvage Chardonnay
  • 2009 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
  • 2009 Simi Cabernet Sauvignon Landslide Vineyard
  • 2009 Franciscan Magnificat (Bordeaux-style blend)
  • 2009 Mt. Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
  • 2010 Ravenswood Zinfandel Belloni Vineyard

As for the receptions, the annual Wines from Spain/Jose Andres Spanish Barbecue was another stunner. Hosted at an amazing trophy home/mansion in the mountains above the Buttermilk ski area, there were again delectable grilled meats and shrimp, tasty charcuterie, and a wonderful array of cheeses. Of course, there also were some excellent wines. I was impressed enough with three wines – Bodegas Roda Rioja  “Roda 1,” Bodegas Muga Rioja “Torre Muga,” and Bodegas Emilio Moro Ribera del Duero “C21 Malabrigo” – to actually write them down amid all the happy chaos.

But I was especially impressed this year with the reception for the “Chef’s Club by Food & Wine” restaurant. This is a special restaurant within the St. Regis hotel that features a rotating lineup of Food & Wine Best New Chefs doing the cooking. What was really cool was the collection of fine Colorado artisan producers presenting their creations in the courtyard. Kudos to Continental Sausage (Denver), Licious Organics (Boulder), Linger restaurant (Denver), Quixotic Tilapia Farm (Canon City), Magpies (Eagle), Aero Farm (Lakewood), Outrageous Gluten-Free Baking (Denver), Jumpin’ Good Goat Dairy (Buena Vista), Etalia Gluten-Free Breads (Boulder), Raquelitas Tortillas (Denver), and

Esoteric Foods “Zuke” Pickled Products (Boulder).

 

Needless to say, it was another year of discovery at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen. I already can’t wait for next year.

 

 

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A QUICK TRIP TO SPAIN

When I first got interested in wine (way too long ago to admit) Spanish wine basically was a go-to choice for good values for every day drinking. Even the storied Rioja seemed an afterthought in discussions of the world’s finest wines. That seemed largely true even twenty years ago, when I first started writing about wine.

 

Well, that’s so Twentieth Century. Today, Spanish wines must be included in any serious discussion of the world’s finest wines but what’s really cool is there still are plenty of great everyday values.

 

In the fine wine category, I include two recently tasted wines from two highly respected producers. Bodegas RODA was founded in the late 1980s by Maria Rottlant and Carmen Dauvella. This is a thoroughly modern winery making thoroughly modern wines but wines that pay tribute to the centuries old traditions of the Rioja. Each vintage, the seventeen best vineyards (all vines are 30-100 years old) are selected to ferment separately and then three blends are fashioned to express different styles of tempranillo, Spain’s signature red grape.

 

The 2006 RODA Reserva ($45) is 100 percent tempranillo aged in French oak of which half is new. It shows textbook red berry fruit character, though maybe a bit sweet. That is offset with toasty, earthy, smoky notes and fresh acidity. It finishes with elegant, supple tannins.

 


In nearby Toro, we find more evidence of the modern winemaking renaissance in Spain and Bodegas Farina is one of the leaders, which is interesting in that it also is one of the oldest family wineries in the region, founded in 1942. It wasn’t long ago Toro was virtually unknown outside of Spain.Not so today and wines like the 2006 Gran Dama de Toro ($45) are the reasons why. The wine is full-bodied and intense. It opens with aromas of oak, black fruits, bacon, and toast. It is packed with dense blackberry, cherry, and plum fruit accented with an herbal touch. Highly structured with strong tannins, it finishes surprisingly harmonious.As I mentioned, there are still countless good value, everyday wines from Spain. I found several in my tasting. 

Another region that has witnessed revitalization is the home of the “Man of La Mancha.” While this area is believed to be the largest single winegrowing region in the world, with most of the vineyard land given over to growing grapes for brandy or bulk wine, a number of entrepreneurs have embarked on a seemingly Quixotic quest to grow fine premium table wines. One such winery is Finca Constancia, near Toledo in the La Mancha region of Central Spain southwest of Madrid. It is owned by González Byass, a leading producer (founded in 1835 and still family owned and managed) of Spanish wines, Sherries and liqueurs, with the most notable brand being Tio Pepe. Finca Constancia was created as a single estate property to produce single parcel wines similar to the principles of Bordeaux.

 

The vineyard is planted to numerous international varietals (cabernet sauvignon, syrah, cabernet franc, petit verdot, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay) but also many indigenous varietals (tempranillo, graciano, verdejo and garnacha. With the designation “Vino de la Tierra de Castilla,” the wines below are built upon both new plantings and existing vineyards and take advantage of the more flexible production techniques under the Denomination of Origin laws.

 

  • Finca Constancia Red Blend ($15). A blend of syrah, cabernet franc and garnacha; herbal notes compliment cherry fruit and spice; soft feel but lifted with crisp acidity.

 

  • 2011 Parcela 23 ($20). 100 percent tempranillo, single vineyard; deep, dark fruit, light spice; though a little thin in the middle, it’s concentrated, fresh dark berries and woodsy spices please.

 

  • 2011 Parcela 52 ($20). A 100 percent verdejo, single vineyard white wine ringer; quite aromatic, light and fresh, with brisk limejuice accented with green herb notes and a lively spritz.
  •  2010 Altos de la Finca ($35). From the highest vineyards on the estate, this creative blend of petite verdot and syrah for the extra money adds admirable intensity with deep black fruits, dusty oaky notes followed by a nicely dry finish.
I was quite pleased to find several values from Rioja, the most famous Spanish wine growing region in the southern part of the Basque country. First up are two from Bodegas Bilbainas, which was founded in 1859 and today is the largest estate in the Rioja Alta and fourth largest in all of Rioja.

 

The 2009 Vina Pomal ($12) takes its name from a 108-year-old vineyard, though the grapes are from 10- to 20-year-old vines. It is a fairly traditional Rioja of 100 percent Tempranillo (interestingly aged in 90% American oak). It is designated a Crianza, meaning it has been aged a minimum of one year, with six months in barrel. I liked the earthy red fruits of this straightforward but tasty wine, with its lively palate and lively mouthfeel.

 

Another vineyard lends its name to the 2011 Vina Zaco ($15). Also 100 percent Tempranillo from 10- to 20-year-old vines, it is best understood as a new style Rioja. And it’s an excellent style. Aged equally in American and French oak, it opens with bright cherry and raspberry. The palate has good weight and depth. It is quite full and flavorful, with a juicy finish and aftertaste.

The ancestors of the Bodegas Miguel Ángel Muro have been making wine since 1892 and growing wine grapes even longer. Miguel’s 2008 “Muro Bujanda” Rioja Crianza ($14) is just a fantastic value. Bright cherry and red currant aromas join roasted and lightly creamy notes. Similar flavor profile marks the intense fruit and touches of spice.

 

Founded over a century ago in the Rioja Alavesa by the grandfather of the current owner, Ruiz de Vinaspro makes wines from vines that range from 40-100 years of age. The 2007 Ruiz de Vinaspro Rioja ($15) is 100 percent tempranillo. It sports toasty blueberry and blackberry fruit. The palate is very dry mixing fresh tannins and woodsy herbs with lively wild berry fruit. A little closed at first, it opens up nicely with time.

 

Finally, just in time for summer, the 2010 Bodegas Sumarroca “Temps Flors” ($14) if a delightful, refreshing wine. Sumarroca is located in the Penedes region of Catalonia near Barcelona. The name translates to “time of the flowers” and the unique blend of xarel-lo Muscat and gewürztraminer mirrors that expression in the wine’s aroma (though it’s actually named after a local flower festival). This fruity, off-dry wine sports appealing fruity notes of lychee and tropical fruits balanced with good fruit intensity, perfect for quaffin

Posted on

A QUICK TRIP TO SPAIN

When I first got interested in wine (way too long ago to admit) Spanish wine basically was a go-to choice for good values for every day drinking. Even the storied Rioja seemed an afterthought in discussions of the world’s finest wines. That seemed largely true even twenty years ago, when I first started writing about wine.

 

Well, that’s so Twentieth Century. Today, Spanish wines must be included in any serious discussion of the world’s finest wines but what’s really cool is there still are plenty of great everyday values.

 

In the fine wine category, I include two recently tasted wines from two highly respected producers. Bodegas RODA was founded in the late 1980s by Maria Rottlant and Carmen Dauvella. This is a thoroughly modern winery making thoroughly modern wines but wines that pay tribute to the centuries old traditions of the Rioja. Each vintage, the seventeen best vineyards (all vines are 30-100 years old) are selected to ferment separately and then three blends are fashioned to express different styles of tempranillo, Spain’s signature red grape.

 

The 2006 RODA Reserva ($45) is 100 percent tempranillo aged in French oak of which half is new. It shows textbook red berry fruit character, though maybe a bit sweet. That is offset with toasty, earthy, smoky notes and fresh acidity. It finishes with elegant, supple tannins.

 


In nearby Toro, we find more evidence of the modern winemaking renaissance in Spain and Bodegas Farina is one of the leaders, which is interesting in that it also is one of the oldest family wineries in the region, founded in 1942. It wasn’t long ago Toro was virtually unknown outside of Spain.Not so today and wines like the 2006 Gran Dama de Toro ($45) are the reasons why. The wine is full-bodied and intense. It opens with aromas of oak, black fruits, bacon, and toast. It is packed with dense blackberry, cherry, and plum fruit accented with an herbal touch. Highly structured with strong tannins, it finishes surprisingly harmonious.As I mentioned, there are still countless good value, everyday wines from Spain. I found several in my tasting. 

Another region that has witnessed revitalization is the home of the “Man of La Mancha.” While this area is believed to be the largest single winegrowing region in the world, with most of the vineyard land given over to growing grapes for brandy or bulk wine, a number of entrepreneurs have embarked on a seemingly Quixotic quest to grow fine premium table wines. One such winery is Finca Constancia, near Toledo in the La Mancha region of Central Spain southwest of Madrid. It is owned by González Byass, a leading producer (founded in 1835 and still family owned and managed) of Spanish wines, Sherries and liqueurs, with the most notable brand being Tio Pepe. Finca Constancia was created as a single estate property to produce single parcel wines similar to the principles of Bordeaux.

 

The vineyard is planted to numerous international varietals (cabernet sauvignon, syrah, cabernet franc, petit verdot, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay) but also many indigenous varietals (tempranillo, graciano, verdejo and garnacha. With the designation “Vino de la Tierra de Castilla,” the wines below are built upon both new plantings and existing vineyards and take advantage of the more flexible production techniques under the Denomination of Origin laws.

 

  • Finca Constancia Red Blend ($15). A blend of syrah, cabernet franc and garnacha; herbal notes compliment cherry fruit and spice; soft feel but lifted with crisp acidity.

 

  • 2011 Parcela 23 ($20). 100 percent tempranillo, single vineyard; deep, dark fruit, light spice; though a little thin in the middle, it’s concentrated, fresh dark berries and woodsy spices please.

 

  • 2011 Parcela 52 ($20). A 100 percent verdejo, single vineyard white wine ringer; quite aromatic, light and fresh, with brisk limejuice accented with green herb notes and a lively spritz.
  •  2010 Altos de la Finca ($35). From the highest vineyards on the estate, this creative blend of petite verdot and syrah for the extra money adds admirable intensity with deep black fruits, dusty oaky notes followed by a nicely dry finish.
I was quite pleased to find several values from Rioja, the most famous Spanish wine growing region in the southern part of the Basque country. First up are two from Bodegas Bilbainas, which was founded in 1859 and today is the largest estate in the Rioja Alta and fourth largest in all of Rioja.

 

The 2009 Vina Pomal ($12) takes its name from a 108-year-old vineyard, though the grapes are from 10- to 20-year-old vines. It is a fairly traditional Rioja of 100 percent Tempranillo (interestingly aged in 90% American oak). It is designated a Crianza, meaning it has been aged a minimum of one year, with six months in barrel. I liked the earthy red fruits of this straightforward but tasty wine, with its lively palate and lively mouthfeel.

 

Another vineyard lends its name to the 2011 Vina Zaco ($15). Also 100 percent Tempranillo from 10- to 20-year-old vines, it is best understood as a new style Rioja. And it’s an excellent style. Aged equally in American and French oak, it opens with bright cherry and raspberry. The palate has good weight and depth. It is quite full and flavorful, with a juicy finish and aftertaste.

The ancestors of the Bodegas Miguel Ángel Muro have been making wine since 1892 and growing wine grapes even longer. Miguel’s 2008 “Muro Bujanda” Rioja Crianza ($14) is just a fantastic value. Bright cherry and red currant aromas join roasted and lightly creamy notes. Similar flavor profile marks the intense fruit and touches of spice.

 

Founded over a century ago in the Rioja Alavesa by the grandfather of the current owner, Ruiz de Vinaspro makes wines from vines that range from 40-100 years of age. The 2007 Ruiz de Vinaspro Rioja ($15) is 100 percent tempranillo. It sports toasty blueberry and blackberry fruit. The palate is very dry mixing fresh tannins and woodsy herbs with lively wild berry fruit. A little closed at first, it opens up nicely with time.

 

Finally, just in time for summer, the 2010 Bodegas Sumarroca “Temps Flors” ($14) if a delightful, refreshing wine. Sumarroca is located in the Penedes region of Catalonia near Barcelona. The name translates to “time of the flowers” and the unique blend of xarel-lo Muscat and gewürztraminer mirrors that expression in the wine’s aroma (though it’s actually named after a local flower festival). This fruity, off-dry wine sports appealing fruity notes of lychee and tropical fruits balanced with good fruit intensity, perfect for quaffin

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KOSHER WINES FOR PASSOVER

Passover this year started the evening of March 25th and ends the evening of April 2nd. If you are still looking for kosher wine for your meals and ceremonies, look no further than Golan Heights Winery.

 

Founded in 1983, Golan Heights is owned by four kibbutzim (collective communities) and four moshavim (cooperative communities). From its home base in Galilee, the most northern and generally considered the best appellation in Israel, Golan Heights has from its beginning been a leader in creating and nurturing a fine wine culture in Israel.

 

If you are looking for an affordable, every day sort of wine, try the “Golan” or “Mount Hermon” brands. The 2011 Mount Hermon Red ($12) is a traditional Bordeaux-style blend and the 2011 Mount Hermon White ($12) combines sauvignon blanc and chardonnay, while the 2010 Golan Cabernet Sauvignon ($15) provides good varietal character. These are younger, more accessible wines that still offer good quality and flavor.

 

 

“Yarden” (Hebrew for the Jordan River, which divides the Golan Heights from Galilee) is the winery’s premier label and flagship brand benefiting from Golan’s finest grapes from the best vineyards. This is seen in the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon ($32), which is a bit pricey but is nicely done, with good fruit, full body, and some complexity, though a soft texture for a Cab. It is especially apparent in the 2008 Merlot ($25), which is just plain excellent and a great value. It is complex and full, with good concentration and structure and bright, focused fruit. As with the Cabernet, the alcohol – at 15 percent – is somewhat high for my preference.

Now for dessert. The 2008 “HeightsWine” (375ml, $27) is a type of “ice wine” manmade exclusively from gewürztraminer, where very ripe handpicked clusters are frozen in the winery. Then the whole clusters are pressed gently and the rich, concentrated juice is fermented very slowly over a number of months. This process yields a wine of intense aromatics and flavors of multiple white and orange fruits accented with spice and a luscious texture that would make a great dessert on its own.

For a different type of dessert wine, Yarden has released a new, Port-style wine, the 2008 “T2” ($50). It is made from two Portuguese varieties – Touriga Nacional and Tinta Cao – and fortified with brandy. The resulting wine is sweet; the red and black berry fruit is ripe; and the palate presents nice earth, spice, and chocolate notes. The texture is a bit rough but the wine compares well with most Portuguese Port.

 

Although there are only a few days left, there is still time to enjoy these wines for Passover. And they are of such quality they merit your consideration any time of the year.

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LOTS OF BUBBLES TO MAKE YOUR NEW YEAR SPARKLE

PEOPLE’S PALATE WEEKLY WINE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR DECEMBER 26, 2012

LOTS OF BUBBLES TO MAKE YOUR NEW YEAR SPARKLE

 

Although sparkling wine is always an appropriate choice for any occasion any time of year, no question the New Year, with all its toasts and “Champagne” brunches, are prime time for indulging a bit of bubbly. And effervescent wine is so popular, there are versions made in virtually every wine region.

 

Champagne

 

The benchmark for sparkling wine is that made in the Champagne region of northwestern France. Cool climate, limestone laced soils, and a nearly 300 year singular focus on the style (the “traditional method” – secondary fermentation in the bottle to capture the ”stars”) means Champagne is the benchmark for all things foamy. It also means the stuff is quite expensive. So, I suspect in most cases you will be looking for a nonvintage Brut. It’ll still set you back a pretty penny but with a top producer (like the two here) you’ll still get something special.

Charles Heidsieck. One of the oldest and most prestigious Champagne houses, established in 1851, the Charles Heidsieck house style typically is one the most complex and bold. Equal parts pinot noir, chardonnay, pinot meunier, with 40 percent reserve wines – some 10-15 years old – the Brut Reserve ($65) packs toasty brioche, pear and tropical fruits, with nutty notes in an amazingly lush frame. Even given the considerable cash commanded by Champagne, the Brut Reserve delivers a lot of wine for the money. 

Lanson. Over 250 years old (the fourth oldest Champagne house), Lanson has been absent from the U.S. market for a while but was recently reintroduced here. Lanson always was one of my favorite Champagnes, so I’m glad they’re back. And the Brut Rosé ($60) doesn’t disappoint. With 53 percent pinot noir, 32 percent chardonnay and 15 percent pinot meunier, the wine is exceedingly fresh and aromatic. This may be because Lanson eschews malolactic fermentation, meaning its wines typically retain more pure fresh fruit character. This one is loaded, with biscuit and floral aromas, red berry and citrus flavors and comes with an elegant texture.

 

Crémant

 

Beyond Champagne, there still are a wide variety of (mostly) more affordable choices for you. In France, Crémant is a term used to designate a high quality sparkling wine made using specified quality control practices including the “methode traditionnelle.”

 

Pierre Sparr Crémant d’Alsace. The Sparr family winery was established an amazingly long time ago in 1680. Pierre Sparr has access to many of the region’s finest vineyards, so maybe it shouldn’t be a surprise this is a highly respected producer. The Brut Reserve ($19) is 80 percent pinot blanc, 20 percent pinot auxerrois. The nose suggests the assertive melon, tropical and citrus fruit that dominates the palate. Fine mousse tickles the palate with minerals and hints of nuts. A fantastic value. The Brut Rosé ($19) is 100 percent pinot noir with fresh aromas of soft red berries and delicate, fruity flavors and lively acidity.

 

Gerard Bertrand Crémant de Limoux. Limoux, a small town and appellation in the Languedoc-Rousillon region of Mediterranean France, lays claim to producing sparkling wine by a second fermentation in the bottle long before Champagne.  Crémant de Limoux traces its history to 1531 and Benedictine monks at the abbey of Saint-Hilaire. Bertrand’s 2010 Crémant de Limoux ($16) is a blend of 70 percent chardonnay, 20 percent chenin blanc and 10 percent mauzac, the indigenous grape which used to dominate all Limoux sparkling wine. There is enticing flowery, citrus and toast on the nose and pleasant pear, apple and lemon flavors. I found the palate to show refined, frothy bubbles.

 

Prosecco

 

Prosecco from the Veneto region of northeastern Italy has become an extremely popular sparkling wine choice in recent years. Prosecco (the name of the production zone, while glera is the dominant grape), unlike the other sparklers in this report is produced using the Charmat Method. In this case, the bubbles are produced by inducing the second fermentation in a pressurized tank. The attraction is in fresh aromas and clean, delicate fruit, frizzante bubbles and low alcohol.

 

Valdo. Valdo Spumanti was established in 1926 and has been owned by the Bolla family since 1940. The Valdo Brut DOC ($12) opens with floral aromas and delivers lively, fruity pear and apple flavors. Valdo also has released a new Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut. Designated “Oro Puro” ($16), Prosecco’s fresh, lively style certainly is present but there is evidence of greater complexity and fuller flavors as the grapes are from the finest (usually higher altitude) hillside estate vineyards and the wine undergoes an extended aging period. Also consider Valdo’s Nerello Mascalese Rosé ($14), in which the nerello grape adds color, raspberry and spice to the blend. It’s not Prosecco but is similar in style.

 

Mionetto. Another one of Prosecco’s top producers, Mionetto traces its origin to 1887. They also areone of the zone’s most creative, as evidenced by the lighter, gently-sparkling and lower alcohol style of Mionetto’s “IL” ($13). The fruity aroma of pear and citrus is followed by a fresh and crisp wine with apple and peach flavors. The Mionetto Prosecco Brut DOC Treviso ($15) is a bit floral and more intensely fruity with notes of apple and citrus. It also is drier and pleasantly brisk.

 

Enza. Enza Extra Dry ($15) is a new brand produced for the importer W.J. Deutsch by the Cantina Colli del Soligo, a cooperative of growers throughout the Veneto. The slightly higher residual sugar is nicely balanced with just the right touch of acidity. The delicate bouquet offers with scents of pear and apple with a lightly floral, while the mouth also exhibits citrus and peach.

 

Moscato and Moscato d’Asti

 

You have to give the Italians credit for creativity and their fascination with spumante. As much as they are rightly recognized for their red wines, I have been told the Italians are just as proud of their sparkling wines. In addition to Prosecco and the impressive Franciacorta (none reviewed here), the Piemontese have come up with one of the most delightful of all. Made from the moscato bianco (white Muscat) grape in the vineyards surrounding the town of Asti, moscato d’Asti is enticingly aromatic, delightfully sweet, slightly fizzy (frizzante), and very low alcohol (5.5%), making it perfect as an aperitif or a dessert wine.


Vietti Moscato d’Asti. With a 200 year tradition of winemaking, this highly regarded producer is recognized as one of the first in the Piemonte to bottle single-vineyard wines and for pioneering the resurrection of the indigenous areneis white grape.  They also make one of the best Moscato d’Asti. The 2012 “Cascinetta” ($15) uses only the best moscato grapes with extended maturation. The resulting wine intense aromas of honey, peach and orange, with hints of spice and a suggestion of flowers. On the palate, it is loaded with apple, pear and lemon, while its delicate sweetness is balanced with bracing acidity leading to a fresh finish.

 

 

Caposaldo Moscato. Caposaldo is a brand brought to the U.S. by the importer Kobrand. The Moscato IGT ($10) actually is not a Moscato d’Asti but I include it here for ease of reference. The grapes are grown in the Provincia di Pavia in northern Italy’s Lombardy region. It is a bit less sweet and higher in alcohol (but still very low at 7%). And the price sure is right.

 

Cava

 

Spanish Cava has long been my go-to bubbly for parties and friendly accompaniment for meals. Most Cava is produced by the tradition method in the Penedès valley in Cataluna not far from Barcelona. Most Cava features the indigenous grapes Macabeo, Xarel-lo, Parellada. It’s recently had competition from Prosecco but is still a great choice.

 

Codorníu. Codorníu has been a premier sparkling wine producer since 1872 when the family introduced the traditional method to Spain. The family’s winemaking history actually stretches back more than 450 years to 1551. Anna de Codorníu Brut ($15) celebrates the life of Codorníu’s last heiress and the family she guided. It was the first Cava to use chardonnay in its cuvee, 70 percent in this release with 30 percent parellada. It shows some richness and a little sweetness, with a solid structure and a creamy texture and more fruit than expected – citrus, tropical and strawberry aromas; and apple, citrus, and raspberry flavors.

 

Poema.  Poema is a top-quality, small-production Cava house that emphasizes sustainable practices, suchasorganic fertilizer and no herbicides. The Brut ($13) is notable for its fresh bread, citrus, apple and even mineral notes. Its crisp, fruity and well-balanced profile positions it as a great choice. 

California

 

Barefoot Bubbly. For my California selection, I’m recommending a reliable choice in the so-called “value” category – Barefoot Bubbly. Barefoot Cellars has been churning out good value wines since 1986. Today, they produce thirteen still wines and seven sparkling. The mainstays of the Barefoot Bubbly line are the Brut Cuvée and Extra Dry, each ($11). The Brut is not as dry as the term usually indicates. But it is clean and crisp, with nice lemon and apple fruit balanced with creamy notes. The Extra Dry shows nice fresh tropical fruit; it is slightly sweet but finishes with refreshing acidity. These wines are ideal for parties and family gatherings and make a good base for the ever popular mimosa.

 

 

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WINES FOR HOLIDAY MEALS AND GIFTS

RIch Mauro The Peoples Palate

RIch Mauro The Peoples PalateAll American Wines For Your Holiday Meal

Every year I spend almost as much time deciding which wines to serve with our holiday dinner, whether it’s Thanksgiving or Christmas, as the rest of my family does preparing the meal. Part of the reason for this is the simple fact that I know good wine dramatically enhances enjoyment of the meal.

The other more practical reason is that most holiday dinners, whether the traditional “turkey with all the fixins” or something more creative, present such a wide variety of flavors that it truly is challenging to pick a wine to drink throughout the dinner. And there usually are a lot of people at the table, so we need multiple bottles anyway.

So, the question is how to match all that variety. My solution? Quite simply, use different wines with each course. Incidentally, I generally prefer all American wines for these holiday meals.

For instance, a Riesling or a Gewürztraminer are great to start, whether as aperitifs or to pair with appetizers and soup, especially one with a vegetable or chicken base. But both wines provide good acidity and lively fruit to accommodate a wide variety of foods.

A good Riesling is enticingly aromatic with bracing acidity and typically green apple, citrus and stone fruit flavors. Most intriguing, there often is a distinctive mineral component. I especially have been enjoying Washington State Riesling these days. All are slightly sweet unless otherwise indicated.

  • 2010 Chateau St. Michelle Dry ($9), Riesling ($9), Harvest Select (sweet, $10)
  • 2010 Snoqualmie Winemaker’s Select (sweet, $10)
  • 2010 Pacific Rim Dry ($10), Riesling ($10), Sweet ($10)
  • 2009 Hogue Cellars Columbia Valley Riesling ($10)
  • 2010 Columbia Crest Grand Estates ($11)

I especially like Gewürztraminer because the grape’s typical spiciness adds complexity that helps the wine match with earthy, autumn flavors. Also look for lychee, grapefruit, apricot, and peach aromas and flavors. The wines below are just slightly sweet and each is an exceptional value.

  • 2009 Hogue Columbia Valley ($10)
  • 2010 Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley ($9)
  • 2010 Snoqualmie “Naked” ($12) organic grapes
  • 2010 Columbia Crest “Two Vines” ($8)

The zesty green fruits and distinctive herbaceousness of Sauvignon Blanc enable this wine to pair with multiple courses. These two are perennial favorites.

  • 2010 Grgich Hills “Fumé Blanc” Napa Valley ($30)
  • 2010 Matanzas Creek Sonoma County ($20)

For the reds, I like Pinot noir for its versatility. Its most common flavors – cherry, plum, cranberry, blueberry, brown spices, and earthy/mushroom notes – are much like the various flavors on the typical Thanksgiving table. Also, many tend to be on the light side, making them more food friendly. Pinot Noir definitely is pricey but each of these wines delivers fine quality within its price range.

  • 2009 Carmel Road Monterey ($20) smooth texture, firm palate
  • 2009 Alta Maria Santa Maria Valley ($28) elegant, complex
  • 2009 Saintsbury Carneros ($28) bright fruit, nice acidity
  • 2009 La Crema Russian River Valley ($40) dark fruit, structured
  • 2009 Cherry Pie “Stanly Ranch” Carneros ($50) intense fruit, full body

If you prefer more outgoing, strongly flavored reds, I suggest Zinfandel, the so-called All-American wine. It is a European immigrant that has fully adapted to California’s hospitable wine growing regions. The grape’s bright raspberry blackberry, and black cherry fruit, peppery spice and brash, generous character should hold up well to the challenge presented by all those different flavors on the plate.

  • 2009 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve ($16) excellent quality for the price
  • 2009 Edmeades Mendocino County ($20) a lot of power
  • 2008 Montelena Estate Napa Valley ($30) elegant, Bordeaux-style
  • 2008 Dashe Florence Vineyard ($32) spicy, structured and full flavored
  • 2009 Frank Family Napa Valley ($37) lots of fruit with fine spice
  • 2008 Dutcher Crossing Bernier-Sibary Vineyard ($39) intense and powerful

Holiday Wine Gift Ideas

It is also time to start looking for a special wine to give that wine lover in your life. With ongoing economic uncertainty, it is more important than ever to be extra careful in our purchases, to find those little gems that can make an extra special gift. Well, I’m here to help, suggesting some exciting wines to make your decision easier.

As much as I am an advocate for lesser-known wines, you can’t go wrong with California Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. These are still the most popular red and white wines in America, making them reliable choices for a gift. And they also carry a certain cache; that something that says you cared enough to select a special wine.

For Cabernet Lovers:

  • 2007 Stonestreet Monument Ridge ($45) demonstrates why many swear by the quality possible from mountain vineyards; really impressive character and complexity throughout; strong tannins and highly structured; intense blackberry, currant, licorice, and dried herb aromas and flavors; this is one to cellar for at least a decade
  • 2007 Hess Collection Mount Veeder ($48) another impressive mountain vineyard; beautiful blackberry, currant and earthy flavors; dry, yet balanced and complex with cedar, and tobacco notes
  • 2007 Freemark Abbey Napa Valley ($40) classic Napa Cab; noticeable oak, concentrated dark berries, black currant, chocolate, and spices; somewhat tough tannins right now but lots of potential for development
  • 2007 Jordan Alexander Valley ($52) elegant and dry, with seductive blackberry and black currant fruit offset with herbal, and tobacco notes; dare I say “Bordeaux-like?”
  • 2008 Treana Red Paso Robles ($35) from Paso Robles pioneer Austin Hope; blended with 30% syrah; ripe, juicy dark fruits and black licorice; hints of tobacco and spice; luscious and graceful
  • 2007 J. Lohr Carol’s Vineyard ($40) St. Helena vineyard; admirable depth and complexity; toasty oak, elegant but concentrated blackberry and cherry; firm tannins; immediately enjoyable
  • 2008 Justin Isosceles Paso Robles ($62) all five Bordeaux varietals in this intriguing blend; dried berries with earthy tones; scents of iron and herbs; well structured

For Chardonnay Devotees:

  • 2009 Stonestreet Bear Point ($55) smoky oak and buttery notes overlay complex citrus, peach and tropical fruit with stony notes; creamy texture but very brisk, so much so it is the rare Chardonnay that needs a few years to open up but will reward patience
  • 2009 Alta Maria Santa Maria Valley ($25) just a really delightful wine; juicy tangerine and citrus with a ribbon of lively acidity; honey and cinnamon add complexity
  • 2009 Landmark Overlook Sonoma County ($28) another delightful, great value; fairly full-bodied with a complex of aromas and flavors including honey, citrus, nectarine, and peach
  • 2009 Patz & Hall Chardonnays: This Pinot Noir and Chardonnay specialist produces a wide array of wines from many of the best vineyards in California. Three new releases, though pricey, really deliver the goods:
  • 2009 Sonoma Coast ($35) focused tropical fruit, creamy texture with a mineral edge and a refreshing finish
  • 2009 Russian River Valley Dutton Ranch ($39) rich, oaky style bursting with pineapple, citrus, and pear
  • 2009 Carneros Hudson Vineyard ($55) oaky, buttery, with a lush palate; vibrant pear and tangerine

A final thought. Whichever wines you ultimately choose, and any of these would make a wonderful choice, be sure to take time this holiday season to raise a glass with friends or family and appreciate the goodness in your glass, on the table, and in each other.

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CELEBRATE COLORADO WINES!

It’s been a good year for Colorado Wine.

For the first time since the repeal of Prohibition, Colorado wineries reported more than one million liters of wine to the Colorado Department of Revenue, an increase of 10 percent over the previous year. Over the past five years, production has increased 70 percent and Colorado wines’ market share, though still comparatively small, has grown 30 percent.

Mt. Garfield & the Bookcliffs Overlook the Grand Valley

Doug Caskey, executive director of the Colorado Wine Industry Development Board noted, “In the face of a small, difficult harvest in 2010 [production down one-third from 2009] and ongoing economic uncertainty, our wineries continue to expand.”

There are now 100 licensed wineries (compared to six in 1990 and 64 in 2006) in Colorado.  Front Range wineries contributed 41 percent of the wine volume reported to the Department of Revenue, while the wineries in the Grand Valley American Viticultural Area (along the Colorado River between Palisade and Grand Junction) accounted for 47 percent.  Eighty percent of the grapes grown in Colorado come from the Grand Valley AVA, though grapes also are grown in Delta, Montrose, Montezuma, Fremont, Pueblo, Boulder, Larimer, Weld and Kit Carson counties.

"Divinity" by The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey

And you can find wineries located pretty much all over the state. At last count, the Grand Valley on the Western Slope is home to 24 wineries surrounding the cities of Palisade and Grand Junction, while Delta and Montrose counties to the south, including the West Elks AVA, hosts 19 more. Surprisingly, there also are five producers further south in the state’s Four Corners area. And there are even 12 more wineries and tasting rooms scattered throughout our Rocky Mountains. On the Front Range, there are nine more wineries and tasting rooms dotted around Colorado Springs and Cañon City. Finally, in the Denver/Boulder/Ft. Collins region, wine hunters can choose from 38 wineries and tasting rooms.

Around the state there are now several well worth the trip wine festivals that offer fun opportunities to experience Colorado wines throughout the year. In the Grand Valley, the 20th Annual Colorado Mountain Winefest, the state’s premier wine festival, was just completed. And the Mountain Winefest organizers successfully hosted the first annual Colorado Winefest held last June at The Shops at Northfield Stapleton in Denver.

A Celebration of Premier Colorado Wines was an elegant tasting event held two days earlier at the Governor’s Residence. The event featured wines given the awards from the Colorado-only wine competition judged by national and local wine experts under the auspices of the American Wine Society.

There also are two great Colorado wine festivals off the I-25 Corridor south of Denver. The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey in Cañon City just celebrated the 10th Annual Harvest Fest and Winemaker’s Dinner. The Ninth Annual Manitou Springs Colorado Wine Festival was held in June. In addition to excellent wine and food, these are special community events anxiously anticipated each year.

As the Colorado industry has grown into a fine adolescence, as I have heard Caskey describe it, it seems the challenge for its journey to adulthood is to find an identity. One of the most interesting things to me about the Colorado wine

Ag Commissioner John Salazar and Gov. John Hickenlooper Survey the Bounty

industry is that most growers and wineries for a long time focused on the “Big Three” French varietals – cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and chardonnay. Merlot is the most widely planted red grape in the state, with cabernet sauvignon close behind, but plantings of syrah, cabernet franc and pinot noir are increasing, as wines from these varieties show real promise. As for the whites, riesling is now the most widely grown, which makes sense to me, since I’ve long thought it made the state’s best wine. After chardonnay, there are small but significant amounts of gewürztraminer, viognier and pinot gris.

As for the future, with the diversity of soils and climate in Colorado, I expect to see further experimentation. And as vintners learn more about which grapes grow best where and about what has made other wine-producing region successful (maybe a topic for another column), I expect the already improving quality will advance even further. Finally, let’s hope more restaurants will find room on their wine lists for Colorado wines

And you can help promote Colorado wine during the fourth annual Regional Wine Week. The blog DrinkLocalWine is hosting the event from October 9 through October 15. Wine writers, bloggers and consumers are encouraged to share information about wine from what organizers call “The Other 47” states (no California, Washington or Oregon). Share a story or personal anecdote about a Colorado wine, winery, wine region, or wine event. The only catch is you have to do it in 47 words. For more information about Regional Wine Week and the contest, check out www.drinklocalwine.com.

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Winery at Holy Cross Abbey, A True Local Winery

This month’s column is presented as my contribution to Regional Wine Week. A project of Jeff Siegel, wine columnist for the Fort Worth Star-Telegram, and Dave McIntyre, wine columnist for the Washington Post, the goal is to focus attention on local wineries. With every state now having a winery (Colorado is nearing 70) and quality improving steadily, this a good time to discover (or rediscover) our local wineries. To learn more, check out www.drinklocalwine.com during the week of October 6.

Canon City, Colorado is one of the last places I would have expected to find a winery, let alone a really good one. But that just shows my own ignorance. Being from Denver, I pretty much only knew Canon City as the home of state and federal prisons and the gateway to the Royal Gorge (the world’s highest suspension bridge). But there it is about three miles east of town, The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey. Given the Catholic Church’s long history with viticulture, it shouldn’t be too surprising to find a winery here. Plus, the Canon City area has a log farming tradition, reaching back to the late 1800s that developed on the heels of the nearby mining boom. Benedictine monks built the Holy Cross Abbey in the early 1920s on orchard land. The Abbey was the base for the order and it’s education programs and, of course, the monks made wine.

But times change. Eventually, the winemaking stopped and in 1985, the Abbey school closed. Still, some of the fathers dreamt of resurrecting the Abbey’s winemaking tradition. They hired Matt Cookson in 2000 to consult in the planting of a vineyard on the property. Matt had been a winemaker in New York and in California (where he worked for St. Francis, Keenan and Rombauer) and had been coming to Colorado to consult with wineries on the Western Slope. The fathers realized an opportunity when they saw it and asked Matt and his wife Sally to help them build and operate a winery and tasting room. The couple already had developed an attraction to the area and decided to make the move from California. Over the following five years, the Cooksons built a successful operation. Then, in 2006, the Abbey closed and the Winery’s future suddenly was in doubt. But the timing of the closure was fortuitous. The fathers were able to sell the winery to Larry Oddo, a New York City accountant who had just moved to Canon City the year before with his family looking for a change in lifestyle.

The Cooksons became partners with Oddo in 2007. And with this partnership, The Winery has continued the success that began in 2002, when the winery produced 3000 cases. This year, they produced nearly 13,000 cases, which Matt says may be more than any other Colorado winery. As Matt continues to win awards for his wines, Sally has led the sales and marketing. This has included organizing special events such as hosting fundraisers, a bike ride, an art and music weekend, and the annual Harvest Fest. Sally also has grown the tasting room/gift shop into a bona fide tourist attraction. Housed in a charming cottage, walk through the doors and you might think you are at an intimate family owned winery in California. Within this welcoming environment, you will find bottles of wine, of course; art and crafts from Colorado and around the world; cooking, wine and travel books; and a variety of food- and wine-related accessories.

Tasting of most wines is complimentary, although the Reserves cost $1. There also is a comforting tree-lined park where you can sip wine or eat while enjoying views of the nearby vineyard, the Abbey and the Rocky Mountains. All of this success hinges on the quality of the wines and here there is no doubt. I have tasted many of Matt’s wines over the last few years and continue to be impressed, as I was at the winemaker dinner on the Friday night before this year’s Harvest Fest. As committed as Matt is to Colorado and Colorado grapes (with most grown on Colorado’s Western Slope), he is not afraid to go out of state, if necessary, to get the best fruit. At the dinner, several of the wines were sourced from California and Washington.

We tasted an American Riesling ($14), which Matt considers his flagship. Good acidity lifts peach and apple flavors. And most of the grapes are from Washington. We followed with a crisp, fruitful 2007 Sauvignon Blanc Reserve ($25) made with grapes from Lodi and a succulent 2007 Chardonnay ($19), whose tropical fruit came courtesy of Monterey.  Colorado, though, was well represented by the full, rich 2006 Merlot Reserve ($26), the oaky, curranty 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve ($26), and the soft, tangy 2006 Cabernet Franc ($22). The meal was brought to a fine completion with the Port-style 2004 Colorado Merlot “Divinity” ($25). The Winery also uses Colorado grapes for its regular release Sauvignon Blanc, ($16) Cabernet Sauvignon ($20), Merlot ($20) and Syrah ($21). The Winery also produces several fun (read mostly sweet) wines: Apple Blossom (from locally grown apples, $12), Vineyard Sunset (White Merlot/White Zinfandel. $11), Colorado Nouveau (whole berry fermented Merlot, $14), and Wild Canon Harvest (a light red wine made from around 21 varieties, $11).

Ultimately, what is equally impressive to me is how the Winery and Matt, Sally and Larry have become an integral part of the local community.  From the hosting of special events and fundraisers to using artwork from local artists Edward Adamic, and Paula Fasken on labels. From hiring area native, Jeff Stolz ,as assistant winemaker to using apples from nearby Colon Orchards and Juniper Valley Farms for the Apple Blossom. And, in what is surely the most populist wine I know of, the Wild Canon Harvest is made from grapes grown by upwards of 100 local growers.  It seems to me this is the essence of Regional Wine Week and of what it means to be a local winery.

THE DETAILS: The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey, 3011 E. Highway 50, Canon City, CO 81212; (719) 276-5191, toll free 877-422-9463; www.abbeywinery.com. The winery is about two hours south of Denver, 45 minutes south of Colorado Springs and 40 minutes west of Pueblo. The tasting room/gift shop is open Monday-Saturday 10-6 and Sunday 11-5.

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Riesling’s Much Deserved Comeback.

Share your thoughts here about this unique and complex wine.

Riesling (pronounced reez-ling) has a long and noble history, particularly in Germany, Austria, and France. It also has enjoyed popularity in the U.S. but fell out of favor as Chardonnay became the white wine of choice. There is a general perception of Riesling as a sweet wine. And, of course, such mass-market wines as Blue Nun tend to be sweet. But there always has been good dry and off-dry (meaning just a hint of sugar) Riesling and it is these drier styles that seem to be gaining fans. The acid in Riesling is what makes it naturally food-friendly, especially with fish, seafood, Asian foods, poultry, and cheese. For me, German Riesling still is the benchmark. So, my next column will be devoted solely to Germany. This column highlights fine Rieslings from elsewhere around the world.

In Alsace, dry Riesling always has dominated. The wines in my tasting, including three good introductory wines, showed the mineral character that is the hallmark of great Riesling.
• 2005 Hugel (very dry, $20)
• 2005 Marc Kreydenweiss “Au dessus de la loi Andlau” ($27)
• 2005 Schlumberger “Les Prices Abbes” ($17)
• Two biodynamically farmed wines from Marc Kreydenweiss, 2005 “La Dame Wiebelsberg” ($44) and 2005 “La Chateau Kastelberg” ($77), demonstrated the added aromatics, concentration and complexity that can come from Grand Cru vineyards.

Australia has shown a real affinity for Riesling.
• 2006 McWilliams “Hanwood Estate” South East Australia ($12)
• 2007 Penfolds “Thomas Hyland” Adelaide ($15)
• 2006 Wakefield Clare Valley ($17)
• 2006 Lalla Gully Tasmania ($22)

You may be surprised to read that Riesling was one of the first varieties grown in Washington and still is one of the state’s favorite wines.
• 2006 Stonecap Columbia Valley ($11)
• 2006 Pacific Rim Dry ($11)
• 2006 Milbrandt “Traditions” ($13)
• 2005 St. Laurent Columbia Valley ($15)
• 2006 Tsillan Cellars Columbia Valley Estate ($22)

Even California has a history of success with Riesling. Now, production is making a comeback statewide.
• 2006 Beaulieu Vineyard Coastal Estates (California, $9)
• 2006 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve (Monterey, $11)
• 2006 Gainey (Santa Ynez Valley, $13)
• 2007 Chateau St. Jean (Sonoma, $18)
• 2006 Trefethen Dry (Napa, $20)

Finally, you can even find good Riesling from unlikely places. Two surprising hits were a 2007 Cusino-Macul “Dona Isadora” ($15) from Chile and 2003 Chateau Bela ($15) from Slovakia (although, this was less a surprise when I realized it was made by famed German winemaker Egon Muller). Even places like Canada, Idaho and Oregon also produce worthy Rieslings. And don’t forget Colorado. I would argue that Riesling is the state’s best white wine, and one of the finest is made by the Winery at Holy Cross Abbey.