Author: Rich

I am willing to bet a survey of American wine drinkers would reveal that the vast majority have no idea Hungary is home to a world class wine region. That wine region is Tokaj (pronounced toe-keye).

I bet fewer still have heard of the furmint grape. Believed to be indigenous to this region in northern Hungary (roughly two hours northeast of Budapest) it is best known in the wine world as the foundation of the famous (and historically revered) Tokaji Aszú dessert wine.

According to the promotional group FurmintUSA, which provided the samples reviewed here, consumers should expect to hear more about furmint in the near future. It already is the leading Hungarian grape variety. And about 80 percent of the world’s furmint is grown in Hungary, though that and historical factors after World War II likely explain why the grape is so little known today.

Ironically, Tokaji Aszú enjoyed a high-class reputation at least from the 17^th Century to the early 20^th Century being favored by Europe’s royalty. Until recently, though, it was virtually unknown as a dry wine, especially in the U.S. Since the breakup of the Soviet Union, many mostly small, family-owned wineries have been established. And especially younger generations have focused grape growing on winemaking quality over quantity.

Now, dry furmints are creating quite a buzz in the wine world, with sommeliers, critics and others raving about an array of pungent aromatics, fruitfulness, structure, minerality and weight as all of these characteristics usually don’t all come together in the same wine.

As with many grape varieties, furmint can be vinified into various styles: from crisp, fruity everyday wines to full bodied and bracing to amazingly intense and complex single vineyard wines. Most of these wines see at least some time in oak, though some use less to emphasize fruit and acidity, while others use more oak to develop added richness and complexity.

2011 Gróf Degenfeld Tokaji Furmint ($20). The Count Degenfeld family, which came to the Tokaj region in the early 19^th Century and has been influential in the area, including winemaking, ever since, reestablished the winery in 1996. This is an estate wine made from organically grown grapes; undergoes barrel fermentation and aging; and sports snappy lemon, apple and stone fruit with cream and spice and unctuous texture.

2011 Erzsébet Estate Furmint ($24). Founded in 1992, though winemaking on the property dates to 1743, this wine is a blend of two top vineyards from this extremely small estate. Nutty, caramel notes mix with steely pear and juicy tangerine, with a gripping finish.

2012 Kvaszinger “Hatalos” ($30). This is another winery whose winemaking heritage dates to the early 1800s, though the new winery only dates to 2011. The grapes from the steep Hatalos slope are mostly fermented and aged in barrel. Lively orange, steely minerality join with apple and citrus.

2011 Majoros “Deák” ($40). Founded in 2009, this producer has been willing to experiment with methods not common to white wine making. For instance, this single vineyard wine is fermented four months with skin contact and has just been bottled. It shows admirable intensity and complexity with aromas of toasted cashew, pear and peppery spice combined with rich but refreshingly brisk green apple.

2012 Gizella “Szil-Völgy” ($55). Here, third generation winemakers have continued the family tradition opening this cellar in 1992. This single vineyard selection shows savory and mineral qualities along with intense, creamy apple and pear.

2012 Sauska Medve ($65). Established in 1998 by a Hungarian who gained success as an engineer in America, this “gravity fed” winery reflects that engineering background. The emphasis on gentle handling extends to the use of only ambient yeasts to ferment the wines. This barrel fermented and aged vineyard selection has penetrating aromas and flavors of forest, spice, pepper, mineral, smoke and fruit notes of apricot, orange, and apple.

Producers are still learning how well dry furmint ages but most seem to be at their best between three and six years, while the single vineyard wines can age and develop for a decade or more. The wines will partner well with an array of foods but especially spicy foods, creamy dishes Asian cuisine and roasts.

One caveat is that these wines for now are still relatively scarce with spotty distribution (hint, hint importers and distributors). And keep in mind, most of these are small estates with small production. But dry furmint can be absolutely delicious, with similar aromatic properties to, say, Grüner-Veltliner or dry Riesling. And in my opinion, almost as adept at translating the nuances of terroir.

A great alternative white wine option, don’t be surprised if dry furmints from Hungary gain in popularity and distribution in the next few years. They should get on your radar NOW!

How many of you out there think Riesling is always a sweet wine? Be honest. I hear all the time from people who think that. Certainly that is not true with German Riesling, my favorite white wine. Yes, the sweet styles are rich, luscious and for many of us captivating. But it is the dry and off-dry wines that are getting more attention these days, from winemakers and the trade … and they hope, consumers. Such wines are the subjects of this column.

The Rheinhessen, Germany’s largest wine region stretching south of the Rhein River, features gentle rolling hills where vines share farmland with many crops. The region’s wines have long rated behind those of other regions but with dedicated growers like the Wittmann family who have been growing grapes and producing wine since 1663; it has emerged in the forefront of the trocken (dry) movement.

Wittmann’s wines truly are outstanding. The only challenge is they are a bit pricey. The entry level 2013 “100 Hills” ($21) is all about tight and tangy lemon and orange. Its juicy acidity is matched by the 2013 Riesling Trocken ($32), which is equally tight, with steely green fruit. The 2013 Wittmann “Westhofener” ($51) is made with grapes grown around the village of Westhofen and presents more brisk green fruit along with juicy peach.

Just to the south of the Rheinhessen, the Pfalz is Germany’s second largest wine region. Growers here have been proclaiming the greatness of dry Riesling more than any other German region. In my tasting, the Pfalz was represented by Villa Wolf, an estate dating to 1753. The 2012 “Forster Pechstein” ($32), from one of the area’s finest vineyards, is representative of the area’s black basalt soils backing fruity aroma, flavors of apple, yellow plum and citrus, with herbal and spice notes.

Across the Rhein River north of Rheinhssen, the Rheingau, is one of the most distinguished wine regions of the world. And while that reputation has been built on the sweeter wines, today many fine trocken are being made – like these two from Robert Weil. The 2013 Riesling Trocken ($20) delivers a lot of wine for the money. Following pure, intense aromas of nectarine and gooseberry, an initial steely, minerally impression in the mouth is joined by juicy and a touch spicy flavors.

In the great Mosel River Valley, which begins west of the Rheingau and where winemaking dates to the Roman occupation 2000 years ago, dry wines also are getting more attention. The 200-year-old Dr. Loosen estate has, under the direction of Ernst Loosen since 1988, arguably become the most recognizable name in premium German Riesling in the U.S. The 2013 “Red Slate” ($18) is the winery’s entry-level dry wine and it is a really good value. Lively tangerine and lemon-lime aromas and flavors are delivered with a sense of creaminess and prominent spiciness likely from the red slate soils of its originating vineyards.

The 2012 Dr. Loosen “Erdener Treppchen” Alte Reben Grosses Gewächs ($42), except for its confusing name, is amazingly rich, elegant and quite intense, reflecting the vineyard’s 100-year-old vines. “Alte Reben” means “old vines” and “Grosses Gewächs” indicates this is considered a great vineyard. Drinking the wine I have to concur as zesty lemon, apple and tropical fruits burst from the glass, accented with minerally red slate notes.

For Fritz Haag in nearby Brauneberg in the heart of the central Mosel, the tradition goes back to 1605. Also an accomplished producer of sweet Rieslings, even the entry level 2013 Trocken ($22) transmits a sense of the reddish slate soil under pinning the bright green apple and honeydew.

German wineries are working hard these days to convince consumers that their dry Rieslings are worth more attention. They certainly have convinced me. As a bonus, these wines are most suited to drinking with myriad foods – from cheese to grilled vegetables to sausage to shellfish to Asian dishes.

“I think the wines this year show great balance and wonderful winemaking skills,” said famous Napa Valley winemaker, Warren Winiarski. The maker of the iconic 1973 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars S.L.V. Cabernet Sauvignon that won the 1976 “Judgment of Paris” tasting (and who has made countless great wines over a 40+ year career) believe it or not was talking about a recent tasting of Colorado wines.

For my first column for the Statesman, I thought it only appropriate to focus on Colorado wine. It seemed fortuitous an event showcasing the only statewide winemaking competition exclusively for Colorado wines was happening while I worked on the column (and fitting it was held on Colorado Day).

While Italy is justly famous for its red wines, there also is a plethora of interesting white wines worthy of consumer attention. Much of that interest comes from the variety afforded by countless indigenous grapes. I only cover one region, the northeast, in this column but I think you will find these wines intriguing enough to pique your interest in the other white wines of Italy.

Prosecco, with its light, frothy flavors has achieved significant popularity in recent years. It comes from an unlikely area in the eastern Veneto, in the hills north of Venice and is made using the native glera grape. The bubbles are produced in large stainless steel tanks instead of individual bottles to preserve the glera’s seemingly inherent freshness. Affordable and eminently drinkable (lower alcohol), it is versatile for many occasions. I recently enjoyed the Mionetto Prestige Collection Brut ($17). With a history in the region dating to 1887, Mionetto is one of its most highly regarded producers. This wine’s clean, refreshing style and delicate apple and pear notes are quite appealing.

A little to the west and stretching south of the Alps (Italy’s Dolomites, or Dolomiti), Alto Adige (also called Südtirol in German or South Tyrol in English) is Italy’s northernmost wine growing region. Nestled between Switzerland and Austria, you are more likely to hear German spoken than Italian. Although it is one of Italy’s smallest wine regions, it is also one of the most diverse, with many indigenous and international varieties. While there are some good red wines, the white wines are of most interest.

Start with Pinot Grigio, the best-known Italian white wine. Abbazia di Novacella, an Augustinian Abbey founded in 1142 that has been producing wine for over 850 years, makes one of the best. With its high elevation vineyards in the cool climate of the Valle Isarco, I wasn’t surprised at the intense aromas and flavors of their wines.

Even as Pinot Grigio has gained popularity in recent years it also has developed an unflattering reputation among many in the wine world as insipid. But, in the hands of an attentive producer like Novacella, the 2013 ($19) flashes fine aromatics and true character. Known as pinot gris in France and rulander in Germany, this crisp, floral wine shows creamy aromas of citrus and melon, some weight, and tangy acidity on the finish

Novacella also makes a fine 2013 Grüner Veltliner ($19). In recent years, Austria has drawn a lot of attention for its challengingly named but fresh, spicy and weighty Grüner Veltliner. This one also displays cashew, green herb and fresh apple.

Or try a Pinot Bianco. The 2014 Kellerei Cantina Andriano “finado” ($15) comes from the first cooperative in the area (founded in 1893). Its lemon-lime fruit, fairly full body and crisp finish proves that coops can produce outstanding wine. Also known as pinot blanc in France, pinot bianco, often provides surprising character, which makes it a popular contributor to the sparkling wines of the region.

I would especially recommend you try a Gewürztraminer. It turns out the grape, which is better known for the wines it produces in Alsace, actually may have originated in this part of Italy. “Traminer” likely refers to the village of Tramin and “gewurz” means “spicy” but here it refers more to intense aromatics. In the case of the 2013 Elena Walch Gewürztraminer ($23) that means flowers, tropical fruit, and lychee, followed by brisk citrus and apricot flavors. The only caveats I offer for readers are that it carries more weight and alcohol (14.5%) than most white wines. But this one was a particular treat for me as Gewürztraminer is one of my favorite white wines.

From the western end of the Veneto around legendary villages of Verona, Vicenza and Padua, Soave is a wine that has fallen in and out of favor with American consumers. If that means you, I suggest you try the 2014 Pieropan Soave Classico ($15). One of the Veneto’s most reliable producers, this family-owned winery was established in 1880 and and crafts his wine from 85% garganega – the major white grape of Soave – and 15% trebbiano from the Classico zone (the original vineyard zone of the region). Pieropan’s hillside vineyards and low yields deliver lemon and almonds good acidity and steely qualities.

From the same area, the 2014 Masi Masianco ($15) is a unique, enticing blend of mostly pinot grigio (actually cultivated in Friuli) and some indigenous verduzzo produced using the traditional winemaking method of drying the grapes before fermentation (known as appassimento, where the grapes are laid out to dry on bamboo racks for about three weeks) to increase concentration and intensity. crisp citrus, honey Lemon, peach, dried apricot, honey, touch of spice, and cantaloupe melon, freshness and fruitness of pinot grigio and full-bodied smoothness of verduzzo gives a nutty note.

2014 Aia Vecchia Vermentino Maremma ($12) Aia Vecchia is a small family-owned winery located in the western Tuscan countryside. After years of growing grapes, the family decided to produce their own wines about ten years ago. It has quickly become one of my new favorite wineries for the incredible value of its wines. This Vermentino is big and ripe for a white wine. Previously associated more with Corsica, this grape has made the trip across the Mediterranean to the mainland and has begun showing up in many Tuscan wineries’ portfolios.

Now that temperatures have climbed into the 80s and 90s, I find myself turning to cool, refreshing white wines for relief from the heat and to accompany the lighter foods I also find myself craving. This first of several columns on white wines focuses on Sauvignon Blanc, listed in order of preference but all are recommended.

The grape is one of the parents (with cabernet franc) of the great red grape cabernet sauvignon. It is responsible for the Loire Valley wines of Sancerre and Pouilly Fume and, with semillon, the white Bordeaux of Graves and Sauternes. The grape also has found hospitable surroundings in New Zealand, South Africa, Australia, and Chile.

In California, winemakers are doing a better job these days of matching clones and vineyard sites and balancing the use of oak barrels and stainless steel in fermentation and aging to emphasize the grape’s zesty green, citrus sometimes tropical and fruits and distinctive herbaceousness. It’s typically quite aromatic, with crisp, refreshing acidity. These traits enable Sauvignon Blanc to pair nicely with the lighter foods of spring and summer.

The first wines I recommend here are mostly fermented and aged in stainless steel to emphasize the varietal characteristics, are lighter and recommended for their straightforward pleasure. Think of them as everyday patio sippers.

2013 Kendall-Jackson “Vintner’s Reserve” ($13). KJ keeps growing and acquiring new wineries but their original line continues to deliver quality at reasonable prices. This one’s succulent citrus and tropical fruit are accented with lemongrass finishing crisp.

2014 Decoy Sonoma County ($20). Baby brother to the Duckhorn below, vibrant herbal notes precede green and tropical fruits in a crisp but softer style.

2014 Pedroncelli East Side Vineyards ($14). From a family with a long history of winemaking the Dry Creek Valley, it’s juicy lime and tropical fruit drinks a little on the sweeter side, with fresh herb notes and a touch of hay to finish.

2014 Layer Cake California ($14). Touches of creamy oats compliment spicy grapefruit and lime for a juicy drink.

2014 Rodney Strong “Charlotte’s Home” ($17). Zesty lime and hints of hay and herbal notes join forces in a fresh, clean style.

2013 Lake Sonoma Sonoma Valley ($17). Nice grassy lemon and orange entry complimented with a touch of melon and richness from a dab of chardonnay.

2013 Wente “Louis Mel” ($15). Fruity tropical notes precede grassy lime fruit; drinks fresh and clean. From a family with five generations of experience growing grapes in the Livermore valley.

Sauvignon Blanc also can be a serious drink that goes exceptionally well with food. These wines in particular show character and complexity that are best enjoyed as accompaniments to food. They all share a winemaking approach that apportions fermentation and aging in stainless steel and at least some (mostly neutral) oak.

2013 Matanzas Creek Bennett Valley ($32). Wonderfully expressive with a broad range of citrus, melon, tropical fruits and lemongrass, this bracing drink, ends invitingly herbaceous.

2013 Duckhorn Napa Valley ($29). Crisp, tropical fruits join melon from 16% Semillon and richness from a significant use of oak, finishing with a touch of minerality.

2013 Atalon Napa Valley ($18). Fresh, lively grapefruit and lemon offset hay and herbal qualities resulting in a succulent drink.

2013 Grgich Hills Estate Napa Valley “Fume Blanc” ($30). Opens with juicy, bright lemon and melon qualities while a crisp, firm palate finishes with a spicy herb note.

2013 Matanzas Creek “Helena Bench” ($40). From Sonoma’s Knight’s Valley, this is strong on the herbal, green and spicy qualities of the grape with an assortment of citrus and tropical fruits wrapped in a tangy, yet rich finish.

2013 J. Lohr “Carol’s Vineyard” ($24). This Paso Robles winery also produced this Napa Valley wine of tasty citrus and light herbal notes; drinks crisp, fresh and tangy.

2013 Sonoma Loeb Sonoma Valley ($18). Spicy herbs and citrus with a slight chalky note; follows with melon and a spicy finish.

Dry pink wines, while appreciated in Europe for centuries, faced a schizophrenic reaction from Americans toward the end of the last century. As sweet “blush” wines like White Zinfandel became wildly popular, most dry wine drinkers decided all rosés were sweet and not worth their time.

Europeans have known for a long time the joy of drinking pale red wine. Whether Rosé (French), Rosato (Italian) or Rosado (Spanish), they are mostly dry. They show bright, fresh fruit aromas and flavors of strawberry, cherry, raspberry, cranberry or rhubarb. The best approximate the profile of their red siblings but drink more like white wines. Because of their freshness, pink drinks are always best enjoyed young; so look for the most recent vintages available.

Most wine producing countries now have gotten into the act with a wide variety of grapes and finally these wines seem to be gaining appreciation in this country. I my opinion, rosé should be inexpensive, no matter how good it is. With the exception of sparkling wine, it is less expensive to make and is made for early consumption. So, here I have focused on wines priced $20 or less. 

From France, the 2014 M. Chapoutier “Belleruche” Cotes-du-Rhone ($16) fashions grenache, syrah and cinsault into a brisk wine with strawberry and cherry notes. The nonvintage Lucien Albrecht Brut Rose Cremant d’Alsace ($22) adds bubbles to pinot noir for a crisp taste of strawberry; an affordable alternative to Champagne.

And France’s neighbors also are reliable sources. I have Italian recommendations that span the length of the boot. The 2014 Mezzacorona ($10) delivers creamy cherry from local lagrein grapes sustainably farmed at the foot of the Dolomiti (Italian Alps). One of Brunello di Montalcino’s best producers uses estate grown sangiovese to produce the brisk red berries of the 2014 Il Poggione “Brancato” ($18).

The 2013 Villa Gemma Cerasuolo D’Abruzzo ($20), made from the indigenous montepulciano grapes in the Abruzzo region south of Rome is bright and full of tangy strawberry and cherry. Sicily sources the 2014 Stemmari ($10) whose tart red fruit features sustainably farmed native nero d’Avola grapes.

The Iberian Peninsula also appreciates these wines. The light, tart cherry of the 2014 Vina Real ($14) from Rioja comes from 85% viura (white grape) and 15% tempranillo. Spain’s neighbor Portugal was well represented with the sharp raspberry of the 2014 Esporao “Defesa” ($15), a blend of aragonês and syrah.

Even South Africa is worth a look. The 2014 Goats do Roam “Fair Trade Goats Rose” ($10) as the bottle notes uses mostly shiraz grenache, gamay noir, and mourvedre grapes that are “fair trade certified sourced from fair trade producers” for a slightly sweet impression. The strawberry and cranberry fruit of the 2014 Mulderbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé ($14) is full bodied for a rose.

American producers increasingly are making nice rosés, too. I have been a fan of the Pedroncelli Dry Rose of Zinfandel as long as I can remember. Actually, Pedroncelli has been making this wine since 1958. A blend of free run and saignee juice, the 2014 “Signature Collection” Dry Creek Valley ($12) is easygoing with raspberry and spice.

From Washington, the 2014 Charles & Charles Rosé Columbia Valley ($14) is lively and flavorful, with pretty watermelon and creamy spice aromas and flavors, finishing off-dry. This collaboration between wine entrepreneur Charles Bieler and winekmaker Charles Smith (K Vintners) is a fanciful blend of mostly syrah, mourvedre, cabernet sauvignon, grenache, cinsault, and counoise.

And finally an unconventional recommendation. I typically crave a glass of Port in the cold of winter but I also have found an elegant, pure Tawny Port (they are best served slightly chilled anyway) can be quite enjoyable during warmer weather, too. The Warre’s 10 Year Old “Otima” ($30/500ml) offers an intriguing mix of fresh and dried cherry and orange, with hints of toffee, almonds and caramel. Balanced, intense and refined, it is an ideal cocktail.