I first became interested in wine while I worked in numerous liquor stores during college in the late 1970’s and early 1980’s. In the years following college, I researched, tasted, traveled to vineyards in California and Europe, participated in countless tastings. I began writing about wine in 1995 with a column in Out Front Colorado. For me, wine is more than a drink. It is food. It is a connection to the earth. It is culture. There is just something amazing, even magical, about the transformation of grapes into wine. It is also remarkable how drinking wine with food enhances the taste and enjoyment of both. Appreciation of wine has become an integral part of my approach to life, which emphasizes balance, respect for nature, physical and emotional health, and an appreciation of our nature as social beings. In 2006, I was awarded a fellowship to the Symposium for Professional Wine Writers.
One of the things I’ve always found fascinating about craft brewers is the seemingly endless desire for experimentation. It’s not enough to simply brew a pale ale, lager, pilsner or IPA. There is a strong drive to innovate, to try new flavors and styles.
Such is the case with Deschutes Brewery, a leader in the craft beer industry for 25 years. Deschutes recently released two new brews from its Bond Street Series, which originated as experiments with different styles at the flagship pub on Bond Street in Bend Oregon. It now features the most popular results from all their pubs. Both of the new releases are IPAs.
“Hop in the Dark,” the result of 22 experimental brews in Deschutes Bend and Portland pubs over more than a year is what might be called a black IPA, though Deschutes calls it a Cascadian Dark Ale. At 6.5% ABV, it also sports 70 IBUs. It reveals floral, spicy pine, and coffee notes in the aroma. A rich, roasted caramelized character from a combination of malts (Pale, Munich, Crystal, Chocolate, Chocolate Wheat, Black Barley, Flaked Oats, and Toasted Oats) is offset with citrus and given structure on the palate from the hops (Nugget, Citra, Mosaic Northern Brewer, Centennial, Amarillo, and Cascade).
“Fresh Squeezed,” as the name implies, is all about citrus, notably from the citra, nugget and mosaic hops. Mild malt notes from Pale, Crystal and Munich malts provide a nice accent. The beer comes in at 6% ABV and 60 IBU. Refreshingly lively for summer sipping, it finishes with an uplifting bitterness.
While the cooking demonstrations and wine seminars are the foundation of the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen, another hallmark of the Classic is all the receptions, parties, and other special events. This year was no exception. I had so many invitations, I just couldn’t make them all … and believe me I tried.
But I still had many opportunities to discover new wines and meet new winemakers. For me, one of the best things about the Classic is the opportunity it presents to meet winemakers and winery owners and to taste wines from producers whom I seldom or never get a chance to try.
For instance, I had a chance to sit down with Michael Martini, the third generation winemaker for the Louis M. Martini Winery in the Napa Valley. Michael, who has been the winemaker for this family (a family that has an over 100 year old history of winemaking in California) since 1977, was anxious to tell me about (and have me taste) his wines. Mariola Varona Bayola, the Export Manager for Bodegas Martin Codax, also joined us. Martín Códax is a 27 year old Spanish winery that is best known for its Albariño. Confused that representatives of a California winery and a Spanish winery both were at this meeting? Don’t be, both are now owned by the Gallo family. And both were delightful lunch companions. And their wines – Martini Cabs and Codax Albariño – were equally enjoyable.
It was a treat to be able to attend a reserve tasting moderated by Master Sommelier Richard Betts on “The Extraordinary Wines of California’s Sine Qua Non.” Now, if you have never heard of Sine Qua Non, don’t worry. That just means you are not a wine geek. Sine Qua Non is a “cult wine” among the cult wines. You can only buy them if you first get on their mailing list and then wait only God knows how long to get in. Maybe you can find one on a restaurant wine list but it probably will cost hundreds of dollars. This is what is special about these reserve tasting’s. They offer rare opportunities to taste equally rare and extraordinary wines.
All of the wines we tasted reflected differing blends of various Rhone varietals – the reds presented different expressions of syrah and grenache, while the whites showed off combinations of roussanne, viognier, and chardonnay. My key take away from the tasting is that the wines definitely lived up to their hype. First and foremost, all six wines showed off beautiful fruit. The use of oak showed in balance with the depth of fruit and acidity.
It’s a ritual every year to wander the Grand Tasting Tent, where producers from all over the world display their wares, in the hopes of making new discoveries. As with previous years, I ended up on a sort of world tour. I don’t have room to list all the wines tasted but here are a few highlights.
Although Australia is best known for many great Shiraz, I’m glad I was persuaded to take the road less traveled and try some really outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. From Penley Estate, a highly regarded winery in the Coonawarra region of South Australia, I enjoyed the “Phoenix” and Reserve Cabs and chatting with Proprietor/Chief Winemaker Kym Tolley. From the Yarra Valley region of Victoria, I really was impressed with Pinot Noirs from Giant Steps and Innocent Bystander, partly because one usually doesn’t think of great Pinot Noir from Australia but also because Owner/Winemaker Phil Sexton was pouring and explaining the wines. Before leaving Australia, I found one more wine I also highly recommend: the Vasse Felix “Heytesbury” Cabernet Sauvignon from the Margaret river region of Southwestern Australia.
Representing Portugal, the Esporão Assobio, which is made predominantly from touriga nacional, tinta roriz and touriga franca grapes, is a distinguished single vineyard red worthy of any serious wine drinker. If you think the only Portugal wine worth drinking is Port (and Port is great stuff), think again. There is a lot of great Portuguese dry table wine and Assobio is one of the best.
Wines from Spain for many years has hosted a whole tent as a separate location within the Grand Tasting park and it is always a great place to hunt for new wines. This year I was especially impressed with the wines at the “Drink Ribera” (that’s Ribera del Duero, one of Spain’s most important regions). My favorites were the Bodegas Montecastro, from high altitude vineyards, and Alejandro Fernandez Tinto Pesquera, from a pioneer of modern Spanish wine. Both are excellent representations of tempranillo, Spain’s most distinguished grape.
I finished my tour in the tent tasting several California wines, with the highlights being the following, all really outstanding, wines:
2011 Franciscan Cuvée Sauvage Chardonnay
2009 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
2009 Simi Cabernet Sauvignon Landslide Vineyard
2009 Franciscan Magnificat (Bordeaux-style blend)
2009 Mt. Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
2010 Ravenswood Zinfandel Belloni Vineyard
As for the receptions, the annual Wines from Spain/Jose Andres Spanish Barbecue was another stunner. Hosted at an amazing trophy home/mansion in the mountains above the Buttermilk ski area, there were again delectable grilled meats and shrimp, tasty charcuterie, and a wonderful array of cheeses. Of course, there also were some excellent wines. I was impressed enough with three wines – Bodegas Roda Rioja “Roda 1,” Bodegas Muga Rioja “Torre Muga,” and Bodegas Emilio Moro Ribera del Duero “C21 Malabrigo” – to actually write them down amid all the happy chaos.
But I was especially impressed this year with the reception for the “Chef’s Club by Food & Wine” restaurant. This is a special restaurant within the St. Regis hotel that features a rotating lineup of Food & Wine Best New Chefs doing the cooking. What was really cool was the collection of fine Colorado artisan producers presenting their creations in the courtyard. Kudos to Continental Sausage (Denver), Licious Organics (Boulder), Linger restaurant (Denver), Quixotic Tilapia Farm (Canon City), Magpies (Eagle), Aero Farm (Lakewood), Outrageous Gluten-Free Baking (Denver), Jumpin’ Good Goat Dairy (Buena Vista), Etalia Gluten-Free Breads (Boulder), Raquelitas Tortillas (Denver), and
Esoteric Foods “Zuke” Pickled Products (Boulder).
Needless to say, it was another year of discovery at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen. I already can’t wait for next year.
It is fitting that Warren Winiarski would have a prominent role in the Smithsonian National Museum of American History’s exhibit FOOD: Transforming the American Table, 1950-2000. The exhibit includes a display illustrating the transformation that occurred in the American wine industry in the second half of the twentieth century, particularly how wine has come to be appreciated as an important aspect of our food culture. Mr. Winiarski has played a pivotal role in that transformation.
But it was a rather atypical journey for him to get to that point. When I interviewed him recently, I was surprised to find out he originally wanted to be a forester and enrolled at Colorado A&M (now Colorado State University) but only stayed eight months. He then went to St. John’s College in Annapolis, MD to, as he told me, “read the great books.” Then, he went to the University of Chicago to study political science and theory, which I thought was especially cool, since I have a Master’s Degree in Political Science.
This next part, though, is more typical. Warren told me it was a year of graduate study in Italy that introduced him to “la dolce vita” that changed him. It was in Italy where he began to understand wine as a daily beverage, not just an occasional celebratory drink. He also said he was inspired by a 1933 book (”American Wines and How to Make Them”) by Philip Wagner, the founder of Boordy Vineyards in Maryland, who Winiarski said believed Americans could make better wine than they were. And he acknowledged influence from Martin Ray, another legend of California wine, for his strong belief in varietal wines before that was fashionable.
Courtesy cask23.com
He moved with his family from Chicago to Napa Valley in 1964 to pursue a life in wine, rather than academia. He worked at the Souverain and Mondavi wineries before consulting for other companies. In 1970 he bought property next door to Nathan Fay’s vineyard (which he later acquired) and established Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars. Like many others at the time, he also benefitted from consultation with the great winemaker André Tchelistcheff.
But it seems Mr. Winiarski learned from the master a little better than most. Warren went on to produce one of the most iconic (I know that word is overused but it applies in this case.) wines in California history. In 1976, at “The Judgment of Paris,” wine merchant Stephen Spurrier’s tasting of twelve California and eight French wines (ten Cabernets and ten Chardonnays), Warren’s 1973 Stag’s Leap Vineyard Cabernet (just his first vintage!) Sauvignon won first place.
Courtesy cask23.com
I have to admit I was surprised how humbly Mr. Winiarski described his reaction. “Initially, I just thought it was nice to win a wine tasting, until I found out the other wines in the tasting. And then George Tabor’s article in Time brought it to the attention of the world. The significance and impact of the tasting grew over time. Regions all over the world realized they could make wine just as good as France. It opened opportunities; gave people courage.”
Naturally, the Smithsonian eventually took interest. He contributed a bottle of the wine to the museum’s collection and the museum maintains a Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars archive. “They came out to Napa and produced a film at SLV and then asked me to speak at the ‘Red, White and American’ [symposium on Wine in American History and Culture, in 1996],” he said. Mr. Winiarski also told me his family’s foundation helped with the FOOD project early on.
I asked him what he thought was the significance of the exhibit and specifically wine being included? Mr. Winiarski said “the exhibit is more than the typical museum piece; it shows people what they take for granted. It broadens the category of food to include wine.”
Courtesy cask23.com
When I suggested the FOOD exhibit illustrates how there has been a similar influence of technology and corporate consolidation in wine as in food production, Mr. Winiarski acknowledged this adding, “There are parallel forces – science, technology and culture; they are inseparable.” He said technology can make for better quality and simplify processes but agreed it is also important to retain the lessons of tradition.
He pointed out since 1950, “Wine changed from being mostly fortified [sweet and high alcohol] to drier table wine. There is more interest in learning about wine, its origins and places, and more books about wine. We even are seeing changes in traditional places like Portugal.”
I agreed technology and industrialization (fueled by corporate consolidation) have had the benefit of broadening access to wine and often with good quality. But, I asserted, quality often has been sacrificed for quantity. Mr. Winiarski responded by pointing to an example: “Paul Masson was practically a saint for his dedication to pinot noir but when corporate owners took over, they used his name to increase sales but weren’t aware what it took to make fine wine at that volume.”
He emphasized there is room in the wine industry for both. But he pointed out the industry is cyclical, so small and new wineries often find it difficult to survive the down cycles. “It would be good if we could even out the cycles, so what’s good doesn’t disappear. We need to make more room for the innovators, visionaries and young people.”
This seems to me a fitting sentiment for the next fifty years of American wine. We have seen parallel developments in recent years, with many new startups, smaller, family-owned wineries, and wineries in every state at the same time there has been significant corporate consolidation (even Winiarski sold to Piero Antinori and Ste. Michelle Wine Estates in 2007). The industry also has seen more and more winemakers and wineries look to more “sustainable” winemaking practices and business models. And as a fundamentally agricultural endeavor, winegrowers and winemakers will be at the leading edge of climate change impacts. These are just a few of the elements that could spur another “Great Transformation” in American wine. I can’t wait to drink the results.
Volumes have been written about the transformations that occurred in American society in the last half of the Twentieth Century. Certainly, no arena of American society has seen more change since the end of World War II than that of food production and consumption.
A new exhibit, “Food: Transforming the American Table,” which opened at the Smithsonian National Museum of American History last November, really brings these changes to life in a unique and effective way. I had a chance to view the exhibit recently and heartily recommend you visit it, too.
Fourteen years in the making, co-curator of the exhibit, Paula Johnson told me this first major Smithsonian exhibition on food history is intended to illuminate the transformation of how food is produced, how we eat, and what we eat. Ms. Johnson also wanted to make sure I notedshe made a conscious decision to include a section on wine in recognition of its growing significance in American food culture and the increasing acceptance of its place at the American table. I will touch on this later in this column and will go into greater detail about the wine section, including my subsequent interview with winemaker Warren Winiarski (a critical figure in American wine history), in a future article.
Courtesy of Smithsonian
The exhibit employs a variety of displays to illustrate the post-war changes. It begins with “Julia’s Kitchen.” This literally is the kitchen from Julia Child’s Cambridge, MA home with original table, appliances, and utensils. It was quite remarkable to peer through the glass and witness this iconic space.
Courtesy of Smithsonian
“New and Improved” – a display highlighting the introduction of various new scientific approaches to farming, processing and distribution – recalls various developments in what I would call the industrialization of food. Even as science and technology (most notably in the form of chemical fertilizers and pesticides) produced higher yields, more certainty and lower costs in the fields, new appliances and access to more energy changed the way people prepared meals.
Viewing the display, I also got a sense of how all this intersected with the American myth of “progress” and how advertising slogans like “better living through chemistry” were deployed in an industry offensive to convince the American people (who had just survived the Great Depression and World War II) the changes would always make life better. Of course, it wasn’t all good news. A section of the display titled “A System for Abundance” tells a story of the difficult, dangerous lives of the workers in the field.
Courtesy of Smithsonian
Curator Johnson aptly characterized “Resetting the Table” as illustrating the complementary and contradictory trends of the time – showing how immigrants, activists, and global travelers all challenged what had become convention. The display first takes a look at the rise of ethnic food and its connection to the country’s history as a nation of immigrants. To me it illustrates an insight into how immigrants adapted to their new environment and how those of us already here have benefited from a broadening of our exposure to previously unfamiliar foods, cultures and people.
This section also chronicles the rise of alternative visions of American food culture that emerged in the 1960’s and 1970’s – often associated with what has been labeled the “counterculture” and “back-to-the-land” movements – and focused on small scale, organic production. Being reminded of the “Do It Yourself” advice of Mother Earth News it becomes clear these alternatives were (and are) not anti-science, as often has been charged. Rather, they reflected a different approach to science – one that used new discoveries to assist nature, not subjugate or appropriate it. And viewing copies of fondly remembered books like Dick Gregory’s Natural Diet for Folks Who Eat and the Moosewood Cookbook I realized also these were a call to recover an appreciation of quality, an assertion that food can taste good and be good for you.
While millions of Americans were embracing the new culture of convenience and abundance, these alternative voices drew attention to the trade offs and the long-term effects of mass production (industrial, large-scale, centralized) and mass consumption (consumerism, planned obsolescence, disposable): impacts on the environment, individual health and workers.
Courtesy of Smithsonian
This period also was a time of great transformation in wine. The “Wine for the Table” section calls attention to the complicated relationship this country has had with alcohol – specifically, in this case, fermented grape juice. Much has been made over the years of Thomas Jefferson’s affinity for wine; and even more has been written about the origins and legacy (and reality) of Prohibition.
Most people today still probably don’t realize wine grapes have been cultivated since the 1700’s on the East Coast; and probably only a few more realize the boom in California winegrowing that began about the mid-1800’s. Not surprisingly, in 1950, wine was mostly an afterthought for most Americans. Julia Child deserves credit here as well for introducing to the public the European tradition of drinking wine with food.
Then, in the 1960’s and 1970’s, a group of truly visionary California winemakers (many of whom benefited from consultation with the great winemaker André Tchelistcheff) transformed the industry, not only in California but – with a little help from the famous “Paris Tasting of 1976” – throughout the U.S. and really, over the following decades, the whole world.
The exhibit highlights contributions from now icons of the California wine industry, such as Robert Mondavi, who left his family’s winery to start his own winery and became arguably the greatest ambassador of California wine. And Miljenko “Mike” Grgich at Chateau Montelina and Warren Winiarski at Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars – the winners of the 1976 tasting – are well represented. These and others, of course, emulated French winemaking practices like using small oak barrels, along with what I’ll call modern winemaking techniques like using stainless steel tanks and temperature-controlled fermentation to vastly increase quality.
Display highlighting heritage of California Zinfandel
Actually, the transformation of wine after 1950 reflects many of the same forces as with food – the intersection of agriculture with business with marketing with culture. At the same time as these smaller producers were showing the world California could match European quality, large-scale wine production (most notably the Gallo family – shown on the cover of a 1972 issue of Time) emerged to introduce wine to the American public in a volume and at a price most could enjoy on a daily basis.
Over the last two decades especially, there has been a growing interest in organic and other forms of sustainable agricultural and cellar practices. Sometimes it seems like every winery large and small is touting its efforts in this regard. The key here, as Mr. Winiarski pointed out to me, seems to be to find ways to harness science, technology and cultural forces, while retaining the lessons of tradition.
Courtesy of Smithsonian
Finally, in what I think was a brilliant idea, they have included what they call the “Open Table” in the middle of the exhibit. It is a place where “(v)isitors will have the opportunity to take a seat at a large, communal table and engage in conversation about a wide range of food-related issues and topics.” Here, the museum is inviting visitors to go beyond just being passive viewers of the exhibition. They are saying eating food and drinking wine are essentially social, convivial activities (not to mention economic and political activities). Visitors are encouraged to discuss the themes of the exhibit and even examine how this history has influenced each of our own eating and drinking choices.
As I have pondered this fascinating exhibit, it has occurred to me the unwritten theme could be “Back to the Future.” The natural food movement that began in the 1960’s has evolved and grown parallel to the growth of industrial food and the current renewed emphasis on local, small scale production grows in significance alongside the “Big Ag” of multinational corporations that for their part still dominate.
The 2000’s especially have seen a renewed commitment to authentic food and wine, with more emphasis on organic, local and small-scale production. The battles between these often opposing forces are heating up over the food world’s role in climate change and the pros and cons of GMOs. We even may be in the midst of another period of transformation. Maybe the Smithsonian should consider making the exhibit permanent and plan to add more years.
The exhibit will run indefinitely, and more information can be found at http://americanhistory.si.edu or by calling the public line at (202) 633-1000.
Craft breweries everywhere have been releasing their summer brews. Typically lighter and fresher, these seasonals are designed to go down easy.
Deschutes Twilight Summer Ale
This summer seasonal from Deschutes offers an aroma of fresh wheaty, malty notes, which are reprised in a firm palate and a crisp, slightly hoppy finish.
Nicely balanced malt and hop qualities, with 35 IBUs.
Not too heavy, not too light, its 5 percent alcohol is just right for warm weather sipping.
Twilight Summer Ale is available from May to September.
Ska Mexican Style Logger
Ska Brewing’s Mexican Style Logger is another seasonal and, of course, this one is really a lager. Ska Brewing is an18 year-old brewery based in Durango, Colorado making around 13 well-regarded brews. This one is all about fresh grain and sweet malt. At 18 IBU, I don’t get much hoppy character but I don’t think that’s the point anyway. Coming in at 4.2 percent ABV, Logger closes with a clean, crisp finish. Mexican Logger is available in cans through September.
When I first got interested in wine (way too long ago to admit) Spanish wine basically was a go-to choice for good values for every day drinking. Even the storied Rioja seemed an afterthought in discussions of the world’s finest wines. That seemed largely true even twenty years ago, when I first started writing about wine.
Well, that’s so Twentieth Century. Today, Spanish wines must be included in any serious discussion of the world’s finest wines but what’s really cool is there still are plenty of great everyday values.
In the fine wine category, I include two recently tasted wines from two highly respected producers. Bodegas RODA was founded in the late 1980s by Maria Rottlant and Carmen Dauvella. This is a thoroughly modern winery making thoroughly modern wines but wines that pay tribute to the centuries old traditions of the Rioja. Each vintage, the seventeen best vineyards (all vines are 30-100 years old) are selected to ferment separately and then three blends are fashioned to express different styles of tempranillo, Spain’s signature red grape.
The 2006 RODA Reserva ($45) is 100 percent tempranillo aged in French oak of which half is new. It shows textbook red berry fruit character, though maybe a bit sweet. That is offset with toasty, earthy, smoky notes and fresh acidity. It finishes with elegant, supple tannins.
In nearby Toro, we find more evidence of the modern winemaking renaissance in Spain and Bodegas Farina is one of the leaders, which is interesting in that it also is one of the oldest family wineries in the region, founded in 1942. It wasn’t long ago Toro was virtually unknown outside of Spain.Not so today and wines like the 2006 Gran Dama de Toro ($45) are the reasons why. The wine is full-bodied and intense. It opens with aromas of oak, black fruits, bacon, and toast. It is packed with dense blackberry, cherry, and plum fruit accented with an herbal touch. Highly structured with strong tannins, it finishes surprisingly harmonious.As I mentioned, there are still countless good value, everyday wines from Spain. I found several in my tasting.
Another region that has witnessed revitalization is the home of the “Man of La Mancha.” While this area is believed to be the largest single winegrowing region in the world, with most of the vineyard land given over to growing grapes for brandy or bulk wine, a number of entrepreneurs have embarked on a seemingly Quixotic quest to grow fine premium table wines. One such winery is Finca Constancia, near Toledo in the La Mancha region of Central Spain southwest of Madrid. It is owned by González Byass, a leading producer (founded in 1835 and still family owned and managed) of Spanish wines, Sherries and liqueurs, with the most notable brand being Tio Pepe. Finca Constancia was created as a single estate property to produce single parcel wines similar to the principles of Bordeaux.
The vineyard is planted to numerous international varietals (cabernet sauvignon, syrah, cabernet franc, petit verdot, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay) but also many indigenous varietals (tempranillo, graciano, verdejo and garnacha. With the designation “Vino de la Tierra de Castilla,” the wines below are built upon both new plantings and existing vineyards and take advantage of the more flexible production techniques under the Denomination of Origin laws.
Finca Constancia Red Blend ($15). A blend of syrah, cabernet franc and garnacha; herbal notes compliment cherry fruit and spice; soft feel but lifted with crisp acidity.
2011 Parcela 23 ($20). 100 percent tempranillo, single vineyard; deep, dark fruit, light spice; though a little thin in the middle, it’s concentrated, fresh dark berries and woodsy spices please.
2011 Parcela 52 ($20). A 100 percent verdejo, single vineyard white wine ringer; quite aromatic, light and fresh, with brisk limejuice accented with green herb notes and a lively spritz.
2010 Altos de la Finca ($35). From the highest vineyards on the estate, this creative blend of petite verdot and syrah for the extra money adds admirable intensity with deep black fruits, dusty oaky notes followed by a nicely dry finish.
I was quite pleased to find several values from Rioja, the most famous Spanish wine growing region in the southern part of the Basque country. First up are two from Bodegas Bilbainas, which was founded in 1859 and today is the largest estate in the Rioja Alta and fourth largest in all of Rioja.
The 2009 Vina Pomal ($12) takes its name from a 108-year-old vineyard, though the grapes are from 10- to 20-year-old vines. It is a fairly traditional Rioja of 100 percent Tempranillo (interestingly aged in 90% American oak). It is designated a Crianza, meaning it has been aged a minimum of one year, with six months in barrel. I liked the earthy red fruits of this straightforward but tasty wine, with its lively palate and lively mouthfeel.
Another vineyard lends its name to the 2011 Vina Zaco ($15). Also 100 percent Tempranillo from 10- to 20-year-old vines, it is best understood as a new style Rioja. And it’s an excellent style. Aged equally in American and French oak, it opens with bright cherry and raspberry. The palate has good weight and depth. It is quite full and flavorful, with a juicy finish and aftertaste.
The ancestors of the Bodegas Miguel Ángel Muro have been making wine since 1892 and growing wine grapes even longer. Miguel’s 2008 “Muro Bujanda” Rioja Crianza ($14) is just a fantastic value. Bright cherry and red currant aromas join roasted and lightly creamy notes. Similar flavor profile marks the intense fruit and touches of spice.
Founded over a century ago in the Rioja Alavesa by the grandfather of the current owner, Ruiz de Vinaspro makes wines from vines that range from 40-100 years of age. The 2007 Ruiz de Vinaspro Rioja ($15) is 100 percent tempranillo. It sports toasty blueberry and blackberry fruit. The palate is very dry mixing fresh tannins and woodsy herbs with lively wild berry fruit. A little closed at first, it opens up nicely with time.
Finally, just in time for summer, the 2010 Bodegas Sumarroca “Temps Flors” ($14) if a delightful, refreshing wine. Sumarroca is located in the Penedes region of Catalonia near Barcelona. The name translates to “time of the flowers” and the unique blend of xarel-lo Muscat and gewürztraminer mirrors that expression in the wine’s aroma (though it’s actually named after a local flower festival). This fruity, off-dry wine sports appealing fruity notes of lychee and tropical fruits balanced with good fruit intensity, perfect for quaffin
When I first got interested in wine (way too long ago to admit) Spanish wine basically was a go-to choice for good values for every day drinking. Even the storied Rioja seemed an afterthought in discussions of the world’s finest wines. That seemed largely true even twenty years ago, when I first started writing about wine.
Well, that’s so Twentieth Century. Today, Spanish wines must be included in any serious discussion of the world’s finest wines but what’s really cool is there still are plenty of great everyday values.
In the fine wine category, I include two recently tasted wines from two highly respected producers. Bodegas RODA was founded in the late 1980s by Maria Rottlant and Carmen Dauvella. This is a thoroughly modern winery making thoroughly modern wines but wines that pay tribute to the centuries old traditions of the Rioja. Each vintage, the seventeen best vineyards (all vines are 30-100 years old) are selected to ferment separately and then three blends are fashioned to express different styles of tempranillo, Spain’s signature red grape.
The 2006 RODA Reserva ($45) is 100 percent tempranillo aged in French oak of which half is new. It shows textbook red berry fruit character, though maybe a bit sweet. That is offset with toasty, earthy, smoky notes and fresh acidity. It finishes with elegant, supple tannins.
In nearby Toro, we find more evidence of the modern winemaking renaissance in Spain and Bodegas Farina is one of the leaders, which is interesting in that it also is one of the oldest family wineries in the region, founded in 1942. It wasn’t long ago Toro was virtually unknown outside of Spain.Not so today and wines like the 2006 Gran Dama de Toro ($45) are the reasons why. The wine is full-bodied and intense. It opens with aromas of oak, black fruits, bacon, and toast. It is packed with dense blackberry, cherry, and plum fruit accented with an herbal touch. Highly structured with strong tannins, it finishes surprisingly harmonious.As I mentioned, there are still countless good value, everyday wines from Spain. I found several in my tasting.
Another region that has witnessed revitalization is the home of the “Man of La Mancha.” While this area is believed to be the largest single winegrowing region in the world, with most of the vineyard land given over to growing grapes for brandy or bulk wine, a number of entrepreneurs have embarked on a seemingly Quixotic quest to grow fine premium table wines. One such winery is Finca Constancia, near Toledo in the La Mancha region of Central Spain southwest of Madrid. It is owned by González Byass, a leading producer (founded in 1835 and still family owned and managed) of Spanish wines, Sherries and liqueurs, with the most notable brand being Tio Pepe. Finca Constancia was created as a single estate property to produce single parcel wines similar to the principles of Bordeaux.
The vineyard is planted to numerous international varietals (cabernet sauvignon, syrah, cabernet franc, petit verdot, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay) but also many indigenous varietals (tempranillo, graciano, verdejo and garnacha. With the designation “Vino de la Tierra de Castilla,” the wines below are built upon both new plantings and existing vineyards and take advantage of the more flexible production techniques under the Denomination of Origin laws.
Finca Constancia Red Blend ($15). A blend of syrah, cabernet franc and garnacha; herbal notes compliment cherry fruit and spice; soft feel but lifted with crisp acidity.
2011 Parcela 23 ($20). 100 percent tempranillo, single vineyard; deep, dark fruit, light spice; though a little thin in the middle, it’s concentrated, fresh dark berries and woodsy spices please.
2011 Parcela 52 ($20). A 100 percent verdejo, single vineyard white wine ringer; quite aromatic, light and fresh, with brisk limejuice accented with green herb notes and a lively spritz.
2010 Altos de la Finca ($35). From the highest vineyards on the estate, this creative blend of petite verdot and syrah for the extra money adds admirable intensity with deep black fruits, dusty oaky notes followed by a nicely dry finish.
I was quite pleased to find several values from Rioja, the most famous Spanish wine growing region in the southern part of the Basque country. First up are two from Bodegas Bilbainas, which was founded in 1859 and today is the largest estate in the Rioja Alta and fourth largest in all of Rioja.
The 2009 Vina Pomal ($12) takes its name from a 108-year-old vineyard, though the grapes are from 10- to 20-year-old vines. It is a fairly traditional Rioja of 100 percent Tempranillo (interestingly aged in 90% American oak). It is designated a Crianza, meaning it has been aged a minimum of one year, with six months in barrel. I liked the earthy red fruits of this straightforward but tasty wine, with its lively palate and lively mouthfeel.
Another vineyard lends its name to the 2011 Vina Zaco ($15). Also 100 percent Tempranillo from 10- to 20-year-old vines, it is best understood as a new style Rioja. And it’s an excellent style. Aged equally in American and French oak, it opens with bright cherry and raspberry. The palate has good weight and depth. It is quite full and flavorful, with a juicy finish and aftertaste.
The ancestors of the Bodegas Miguel Ángel Muro have been making wine since 1892 and growing wine grapes even longer. Miguel’s 2008 “Muro Bujanda” Rioja Crianza ($14) is just a fantastic value. Bright cherry and red currant aromas join roasted and lightly creamy notes. Similar flavor profile marks the intense fruit and touches of spice.
Founded over a century ago in the Rioja Alavesa by the grandfather of the current owner, Ruiz de Vinaspro makes wines from vines that range from 40-100 years of age. The 2007 Ruiz de Vinaspro Rioja ($15) is 100 percent tempranillo. It sports toasty blueberry and blackberry fruit. The palate is very dry mixing fresh tannins and woodsy herbs with lively wild berry fruit. A little closed at first, it opens up nicely with time.
Finally, just in time for summer, the 2010 Bodegas Sumarroca “Temps Flors” ($14) if a delightful, refreshing wine. Sumarroca is located in the Penedes region of Catalonia near Barcelona. The name translates to “time of the flowers” and the unique blend of xarel-lo Muscat and gewürztraminer mirrors that expression in the wine’s aroma (though it’s actually named after a local flower festival). This fruity, off-dry wine sports appealing fruity notes of lychee and tropical fruits balanced with good fruit intensity, perfect for quaffin
I very much enjoyed learning about Kitchen Table Cooking School & Colorado Culinary Academy in Greenwood Village last night. This is an impressive operation with great chefs.
Owner Yvonne Haag had just moved the five-year-old cooking school, along with its Espressolé Caffe (including all house made pastries) to new digs. The new location enjoys impressive new, state-of-the-art kitchens. The new space also will also be home to a brand-new professional culinary school, Colorado Culinary Academy (CCA). The Academy will offer a 12-week, affordable, accelerated – yet comprehensive – professional culinary program, designed so students can put their culinary education to work right away, without the financial burden of a longer, more expensive program.
Cooked up as it were by Ms. Haag and co-owner Chef Andy Floyd. Haag and Floyd explained the academy is designed to provide affordable, accelerated training for those seeking a career in the culinary industry. Class size will be kept small so that each student receives individualized instruction, cooks the whole menu each day, and learns every technique on the agenda.
Their intent is for each graduate to possess the skills to find an entry-level job by the end of the program. What’s different here is the program is accelerated, comprehensive and affordable. Accelerated means a full-time, 12-week comprehensive professional culinary training program covering the basic techniques, principles and theories of savory cooking with an overview of classic pastry items mandatory for every entry-level cook. Affordable means $15,000 tuition.
Passover this year started the evening of March 25th and ends the evening of April 2nd. If you are still looking for kosher wine for your meals and ceremonies, look no further than Golan Heights Winery.
Founded in 1983, Golan Heights is owned by four kibbutzim (collective communities) and four moshavim (cooperative communities). From its home base in Galilee, the most northern and generally considered the best appellation in Israel, Golan Heights has from its beginning been a leader in creating and nurturing a fine wine culture in Israel.
If you are looking for an affordable, every day sort of wine, try the “Golan” or “Mount Hermon” brands. The 2011 Mount Hermon Red ($12) is a traditional Bordeaux-style blend and the 2011 Mount Hermon White ($12) combines sauvignon blanc and chardonnay, while the 2010 Golan Cabernet Sauvignon ($15) provides good varietal character. These are younger, more accessible wines that still offer good quality and flavor.
“Yarden” (Hebrew for the Jordan River, which divides the Golan Heights from Galilee) is the winery’s premier label and flagship brand benefiting from Golan’s finest grapes from the best vineyards. This is seen in the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon ($32), which is a bit pricey but is nicely done, with good fruit, full body, and some complexity, though a soft texture for a Cab. It is especially apparent in the 2008 Merlot ($25), which is just plain excellent and a great value. It is complex and full, with good concentration and structure and bright, focused fruit. As with the Cabernet, the alcohol – at 15 percent – is somewhat high for my preference.
Now for dessert. The 2008 “HeightsWine” (375ml, $27) is a type of “ice wine” manmade exclusively from gewürztraminer, where very ripe handpicked clusters are frozen in the winery. Then the whole clusters are pressed gently and the rich, concentrated juice is fermented very slowly over a number of months. This process yields a wine of intense aromatics and flavors of multiple white and orange fruits accented with spice and a luscious texture that would make a great dessert on its own.
For a different type of dessert wine, Yarden has released a new, Port-style wine, the 2008 “T2” ($50). It is made from two Portuguese varieties – Touriga Nacional and Tinta Cao – and fortified with brandy. The resulting wine is sweet; the red and black berry fruit is ripe; and the palate presents nice earth, spice, and chocolate notes. The texture is a bit rough but the wine compares well with most Portuguese Port.
Although there are only a few days left, there is still time to enjoy these wines for Passover. And they are of such quality they merit your consideration any time of the year.
SPRING BREWS FROM DESCHUTES AND SAMUEL ADAMS … AND AN ODE TO BOSTON LAGER
Although winter still has some punch left, this is the time of year when most breweries release their warm weather brews. These spring/summer beers typically sport a lighter, more approachable style. However, for me, their “drinkability” usually comes at the price of flavor interest. While, this style of beer generally isn’t my favorite, I have to admit the new releases from Deschutes and Samuel Adams are certainly “drinkable” and worth a taste.
Deschutes “River Ale” likely qualifies as a ”session ale,” with its low 4% ABV.
There is a good balance of malt and hop (a relatively modest 28 IBUs).
It opens with malty aromas, accented with a light lemony, hoppy bitterness followed by a similar flavor profile.
Samuel Adams “White Lantern” is a Belgian-style white ale, with added tangerine and orange peel, coriander and
Grains of Paradise (this is typical of traditional Belgian ales to have added spices and other flavorings). With a higher but still relatively moderate 5.5% ABV, this unfiltered potion offers citrus, bread, caramel, and lemongrass aromas. The flavor profile is similar but a bit toastier, with a touch of hoppy bitterness, despite the very low 10 IBUs.
Sam Adams “Double Agent IPL” is an altogether different creation. Note the “IPL,” as in India Pale Lager. Here we have a successful attempt to combine the hoppiness of an IPA and the subtle maltiness of a lager. Again we’re talking a modest 5.0% ABV but with a somewhat higher 43 IBU.
I liked the white pepper and grapefruit in the nose. I found the palate quite intriguing with a light hoppy bitterness and a hint of citrus built on an oat-like foundation.
I also want to take this opportunity to ruminate a bit on Samuel Adams Boston Lager. This iconic craft beer, now almost 30 years old, is easy for craft beer lovers to dismiss. Certainly, when it was introduced to American beer drinkers in 1984, it was a breath of fresh air, even a revelation, at least to this flavor starved beer drinking palate. At that time, I think the only other craft beer with which I was familiar was Anchor Steam Beer. Otherwise, my search for character meant trying different imports.
Boston Lager has always seemed to me to taste more like an ale than a lager. Maybe it’s because coming of age in the 1970’s, my experience with lagers was the typical American mass produced beer. Regardless of the proper style definition, Boston Lager’s hoppy character (from high quality Hallertau, Mittelfrueh and Tettnang Noble hops) seems fairly pronounced (even at 30 IBUs) but it is balanced nicely with creamy malts (a two-row pale barley malt blend and Caramel 60).
Jim Koch’s first commercial brew exhibits a bit of spicy citrus and pine qualities in the nose. The palate presents with good bite (even though it only provides a modest 4.9 % ABV) balanced with a pleasant creaminess. The beer finishes with citrus and caramel notes.
It seems obligatory for many craft beer advocates to downplay beers like Boston Lager that have been around a long time and are produced in relatively large quantities (at least by craft beer standards). Everyone is looking for the next “new thing” or “extreme beer.” And the Boston Beer Company has its fair share of those. But they deserve a lot of credit for maintaining the high quality of Samuel Adams Boston Lager, even as production has increased.
