Rich, Author at The People's Palate with Rich Mauro

July 22, 2017

SLOW FOOD NATIONS – DAY TWO

With the Delegate Summit completed on Friday, Saturday inaugurated the Slow Food Nations Festival. Larimer Street between 14th and 15th streets and 14th Street between Market and Lawrence were dotted with booths of the taste marketplace, a kids area with gardens & cooking, and international pavilions. And it all was free and open to the public, although, of course, there was plenty of small, artisan made products for sale.

The festival kicked off with a panel titled “Love the Earth, Defend the Future: Taking Action to Protect Our Food.” The panel included Carlo Petrini-founder and president of Slow Food International; Alice Waters-chef (and author) founder of Chez Panisse(what some have called (the original farm-to-table restaurant) and vice president of Slow Food International; Ron Finley-an advocate for urban transformation through urban gardening and fresh, healthy produce for kids; Michel Nischan-chef, author, and advocate, focused on sustainable food systems and social equity through food; and musician Jack Johnson who is a proponent for sustainable local food systems and plastic free initiatives.

Kim Severs, a journalist with The New York Times who moderated the panel, began by saying she likes that Slow Food has been political but not partisan and described it is “a delicious revolution.”

Some of the panel highlights I noted:

Alice Waters compared our current times to the Vietnam War era-It’s a lot worse than we know, so we have to do something dramatic together.

But isn’t food frivolous in these times? Quoting Ron Finley-not at all, we can’t survive without it. More people are killed in East LA by drive-ins than drive-bys.
It’s not a bad thing that the Administration is not doing much on food because that leaves it up to us. Farmers markets, food hubs, etc. are disruptive initiatives, with or without government involvement.
Still, we need to ask our politicians really tough questions about food and educate them

Ron Finley noted he is not working with the government because “they have enslaved us, it is a WMD.” He stressed the importance of starting early educating young people about real food.

Jack Johnson added you make them fall in love with good food “because you protect what you love.”

One of the panelists – I didn’t catch which – added this startling statistic: For the cost of one dialysis treatment, 250 people can eat three meals a day.

And Carlo Petrini spent a significant amount of time singing the praises of (writer and Kentucky farmer) Wendell Berry : It seems odd that you are looking for a political solution when you have the answer right here: Wendell Berry, he is insightful and knows the rot in the system. More:

Eating as an agricultural act is the most important thing. I don’t want to eat things I don’t know. Is it just a matter of how cheap it is?
Wendell also talks about how we need to pay more for our food. As long as we pay so little for our food, put such a low value on it, there won’t be change. There are negative externalities that destroy nature, community, the economy.
The revolution starts with each of us and the food we eat. Understand the difference between price and value.
Biodiversity, sustainability, soil fertility all are important.
If we want to bring about this change, politicians will follow us. We have to regenerate the economy buy paying value, paying more, then we can change politics. Be generous; we can’t change politics by being stingy.

July 15, 2017

SLOW FOOD NATIONS – DAY ONE

The world came to Denver today, Friday July 14, 2017. Well, the world of Slow Food anyway. But it is an important world, one of small farmers, artisan food producers, chefs, conscientious consumers and food justice activists. For three days they come together to take stock of the progress of the about 30 year-old movement—and the challenges facing the growing international food movement. The event appropriately is called Slow Food Nations, reflecting the international nature of the movement.

The food festival, which will be held Saturday and Sunday, was preceded today with the Delegate Summit of leaders in the movement who gathered to meet, share stories, discuss a wide variety of food issues, and help shape the future of Slow Food. Richard McCarthy, Executive Director, Slow Food USA, kicked off Slow Food Nations with an address to an estimated 500 delegates. The slide below condenses the message while focusing the on the values being practiced.

Richard Salvador (Director, Food & Environment, Union of Concerned Scientists) followed bringing an international perspective. His talk emphasized the the rights of workers in food production and each persons role in creating a good food system for all. I was particularly struck by a slide he showed demonstrating the relative cost of a McDonalds hamburger in different locales around the world. It helps to put the importance of local food production into perspective.

A highlight of the day, of course, was the lunch under a big, open tent in Civic Center park. Alice Waters welcomed everyone by talking about connecting agriculture and food (farms and gardens) with education and learning (schools and curriculum). She said, “I don’t want to talk about it. I want you to taste it and smell it and connect with (others).” She also stressed the importance of food for learning, how many children don’t even have one meal a day with their family. Then she talked about haw it would be revolutionary to connect school with farming and how she has an idea of the school lunch as an academic subject. While students from the Each One, Teach One program of Denver Public Schools helped with the food preparation, I was struck by how participatory the service was as people at all the tables we asked to volunteer to help bring food to their table.

The afternoon included a variety of workshops and break out sessions. I was struck by the workshop on Breaking the Corporate Stranglehold, when attendees took a break to call their members of Congress to ask them to cosponsor the Opportunities for Fairness in Farming Act and the Voluntary Check off Act, which would reform the commodity checkogf programs. At a workshop on Aligning the Good Food and Food Justice Movements presenters stressed the relationships between producers an consumers and discussed the pros and cons of exploring different business models, such as Community Supported Agriculture and cooperatives.

Slow Food founder Carlo Petrini appropriately gave the closing keynote address to the delegate summit (translated by The Atlantic Senior Editor Corby Kummer). His address touched on the Slow Food values of self-sufficiency, small and local, organic production. Mr. Petrini also emphatically criticized so-called free trade treaties saying these international treaties made in the name of Free trade demolish small scale production. They reduce food to the level of commodity. “Free trade is the freedom for the foxes to eat chickens. And we know who the foxes are and who the chickens are.”

The speech continued touching on the surveillance state and privacy but how the new methods of communication can enable faster change. This technology is the means. the question is how do we use use it for our own community?

He added the international community hasn’t acted the way it should on Climate Change, even with the Paris agreement. And declared it’s the poor countries that suffer the most – many Slow Food members in Africa already have lost much of their crops, according to him.

Quantity vs. Quality? Mr. Petrini expressed concern about the increase in meat consumption notably in China. Noting the next Slow Food International Congress will be held in China he said there isn’t enough land, so they increasingly buy meat from the USA or Brazil without knowing the impact on the environment, their culture. “We want food with an identity.” He gave an example of the Slow Food vision noting prosciutto: it’s important to know what kind of pig, where it is from, how it was raised, etc. He acknowledged this means we need to make changes in our lifestyle: eat less meat but better meat, pay attention to where it is from, use fewer chemicals, and reduce waste.

“Participatory democracy begins with participatory food production.”

Mr. Petrini, approaching the close of his address, stressed the urgency of the food movement’s work. And pointed to the central role of the farmer: Now is the time to share – the common knowledge, folk knowledge of farmers is scientific knowledge. Farmers are themselves a university, an extended university. Farmers deserve respect, for their work, experience, knowledge, their scientific knowledge. Local farmers and food producers are scholars, scientists, a university of agricultural knowledge diffused. Traditional knowledge needs to work on an equally respected footing with academic knowledge

And Mr. Petrini noted the food movement can build bridges to other movements: We all depend on each other. We must be inclusive, with less structure, more ideas. When a movement becomes too structured, it starts to die. Focus on ideas, not structure. Let young people pursue their ideas. Focus on human relations instead of spreadsheets. Finally: a different kind of democracy will emerge. The new metaphor for our new dimension is the vegetable. Vegetables don’t have a brain but they work without a leader. The biggest leader is the group. So, the more people there are to think, the fewer errors they make. We need less bureaucracy, more empathy.

June 29, 2017July 5, 2017

ITALIAN SANGIOVESE: AN IDEAL SUMMER RED

European countries generally are distinguished by their predominate use of indigenous varieties in their wines. And Italy especially is known for its abundance of indigenous grape varieties (nearly 400) cultivated for the production of wine. Of all those, sangiovese (translated as the blood of Jupiter) rises above in quantity – it’s Italy’s most planted variety – and quality (with the exception of nebbiolo) – it’s most responsible for the great wines of Tuscany.

And it is in Tuscany, where it is believed to have originated thousands of years ago, that sangiovese reaches its epitome.The Tuscan hills (particularly between Firenze and Siena) just seem to have been created to nurture the sangiovese grape to its essence. Generally, quality wines made with sangiovese exhibit deep, bright cherry aromas and flavors with firm, dry structure and earthy qualities. But, even within Tuscany, different clones, grown in different microclimates yield distinct expressions.

Generally, quality wines made with sangiovese exhibit deep, bright cherry aromas and flavors with firm, noticeably dry structure and earthy qualities. Sometimes supplemented with other grapes to fill out the wine. These qualities make sangiovese wines great with food. They pair well with hearty red meat and poultry, pasta, dishes such as Bolognese or chicken cacciatore as well as burgers and pizza.

Chianti is the most famous rendition, at least in the U.S. The cooler, wetter climate leads to higher acid wines, complex, firm and savory. Current laws allow up to 20% other grapes, usually the native grapes canaiolo and colorino, but also sometimes cabernet sauvignon and merlot. Still, many these days are 100% sangiovese. Ruffino is one of Chianti’s most recognizable names. Founded in 1877, Ruffino claims to be the first Chianti imported to the U.S. As an inexpensive, everyday wine, the sangiovese of the 2014 Ruffino Chianti ($10) is supplemented 30% with other grapes and released with minimal aging. It is a good everyday wine.

For a little more money (ok, twice the money) it’s worth stepping up to Chianti Classico. The grapes come from a more delimited zone, basically the center of the Chianti region, with a history of making the best wines. Not long after Ruffino, the Cecchi (check-ee) family began making Chiant in 1893. The 2014 Cecchi Chianti Classico “Storia di Famiglia” ($22) might be described as a traditional style, in that its 90% sangiovese is supplemented with local varieties and aged in large casks. Intense dark cherries yield to earthy flavors as the wine reveals a richness that finishes with firm tannins.

And if you like that, venture on to Chianti Classico Riserva. Riserva’s require more aging before release and Ruffino’s Riserva “Ducale” (2012, $25) has been one of my favorites since I first started drinking wine. Made since 1927, this vintage luxuriates in its 20% merlot and cabernet sauvignon. A special selection of estate grapes, it was aged 24 months in a combination of oak, stainless steel, and concrete vats.

And there are other worthy manifestations of sangiovese deserving of your attention. Among wine intenditori (Italian for connoisseurs), Brunello di Montalcino is even more prized than Chianti. It also is more expensive, with some bottles costing several hundred dollars. Named after the town of Montalcino and the local clone of sangiovese, the area’s warm, dry summers, 30 miles from the sea, and rocky soils, combined with that specific clone produce some of the most concentrated, muscular, long-lived versions of sangiovese. Typically 100% sangiovese, Brunello almost mandates several years of development before drinking. As great as Brunello is, a better option for our purposes is Rosso di Montalcino. Basically made from younger vines or declassified grapes, these wines give you a taste of Brunello without the hit to the wallet. A good one is the 2010 Banfi ($25). Aged 12 months in French oak and six months in bottle, it is lighter and less concentrated than Brunello but still lush and fruitful, earthy and fresh, with dusty tannins.

Montepulciano, Montalcino’s neighbor to the east, is another classic Tuscan hill town whose environs produce fine sangiovese. Take a close look, though, the names can be confusing, as can be the tradition of locally assigned names for the local clones of sangiovese – here known as prugnolo gentile. More similar to Chianti, these wines, designated Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, are less likely to be 100% sangiovese. Up to 30% other grapes are allowed. The wines can age but are best enjoyed sooner than later. There are no better producers to introduce you to Vino Nobile than Avignonesi (established in 1974) and Poliziano (founded in 1961). They are leaders in a quality revolution restoring Vino Nobile to the level of Chianti and Brunello.

The 2013 Avignonesi ($29) is 100% estate grown sangiovese. With 12 months in barriques, six months in large Slovenian oak casks and six months in bottle, it is energetic, revealing smoky, earthy, notes with tobacco and leather and solid tannins. The 2013 Poliziano ($28) includes 15% colorino, canaiolo, and merlot. Fermented in stainless steel ranks, then aged 16 months in oak (2/3 in small barriques and 1/3 in large tonneaux), it is dense with bright acidity and plump fruit displaying oak, with hints of spice and tobacco finishing with smooth tannins – arguably a modern style. For an everyday drink, try the 2014 Poliziano Rosso di Montepulciano ($15). It’s from younger vines and with 20% merlot; is fermented in stainless steel; and aged 8 months in oak, mostly large vats, yielding softer, yet juicy cherry and fresh tannin.

At the other end of the price/quality scale, if you are willing to spend the money, is the amazing 2012 Poliziano Vino Nobiile di Montepulciano “Asinone” ($60). A limited production, 100% sangiovese wine from Poliziano’s best vineyard (with 50+ year-old vines), it is rich, deep, vibrant and concentrated; firmly structured with spice, leather, tobacco, and herbal notes. Stainless steel fermentation, 18 months in new French oak barriques and tonneaux, and one year in bottle have yielded a really impressive wine.

Finally, for good sangiovese value, try a Morellino di Scansano. From the Maremma region on the Tuscan coast. Named for the village of Scansano and the local name for sangiovese, it is not surprising that many Chianti producers have invested in the area. With vineyards located closer to the coast, near sea level and with a milder climate, the wines tend to be fleshier and suppler. See what I mean with the inviting 2014 Poliziano “Lohsa” ($15). Enhanced with 15% of the local grape ciliegiolo, its ripe fruit is lightly smoky, firm yet lush.

NOTE: Featured Image and top photo are courtesy of the Chianti Classico Consortium.

June 16, 2017June 16, 2017

SPAIN’S LEADING RED GRAPES

Spain has one of the world’s most expansive wine cultures with notable vineyard areas and distinctive native grapes reflecting enormous wine diversity in every region of the country. Arguably the most famous region is Rioja located in the Ebro River Valley in north central Spain.

In view of the Sierra de Cantabria Mountains, its vineyards are blanketed with tempranillo vines, Spain’s most planted red grape. The variety typically exhibits cherry fruit and savory notes of cedar, tobacco and leather. With moderate acidity, it still ages amazingly well. Thanks to Tempranillo, Rioja is home to some of Spain’s most internationally known reds. Historically, long aging usually in American oak and blending with other native grapes has balanced its distinctive flavors. In recent years, the time in barrel has been reduced but still is longer than most other wines. As seen with the following wines, we consumers benefit from the wines being ready to drink upon release.

Bodegas El Coto Coto de Imaz Reserva 2010 ($24). Founded in 1970, El Coto is now the largest owner of vineyards in Rioja. Under Rioja’s aging classification Reserva wines require at least three years aging, with at least one of those years in barrel. This wine is velvety with nice vanilla notes.

In sort of a Spanish version of a Bordeaux blend, tempranillo in the 2005 Bodegas Franco-Espanolas “Bordon” Gran Reserva ($24) is complimented with garnacha, mazuelo (carignan in France) and graciano. Not surprising as this historic winery was founded in 1890 by a Bordeaux winemaker fleeing the phylloxera plague in France and his Spanish partners (hence the winery’s name). Generally made only in exceptional vintages, Gran Reserva wines have been regarded as Rioja’s pinnacle. They must have at least two years in barrel and three years in bottle. This one was aged three years in American white oak and three years in bottle. Fully mature, it is gentle yet still full of fruit. It is complex and drinks with richness, as noticeable oak is balanced with dried red fruits and subtle leather and savory notes.

Various clones of tempranillo are grown throughout Spain and often given names in the local dialect. Just west of Rioja, the large province Castilla y León is home to the Ribera del Duero and some of Spain’s greatest wines and most expensive wines. Also mostly planted to tempranillo, which here is known as tinto fino or tinta del país, its vineyards surround the Duero River, which bisects the region.

There also are many bottles priced for everyday drinking. One such is the 2015 Bodega Matarromera “Granza” ($15). It is made with organically grown grapes, by a family owned estate winery operating only since 1988 but has established itself as a leader in sustainability. Granza is an elegant and complex wine with ripe black fruit aromas of blackberry and blueberry with violet floral background. Good complexity and long finish, smooth and persistent.

Also in the Ebro Valley just to the east of Rioja, wines from Cariñena, particularly those made with garnacha, offer great value and deserve more attention from consumers. Within the mountainous province of Aragón in northeast Spain that shares a border with France, the vineyards of Cariñena date to the Roman occupation of the area possibly as early as the 3^rd century BCE. In recent years, more producers have taken better advantage of its limestone-rich soils’ ability to yield juicy garnacha grapes and many producers boast of their old-vine vineyards.

Known as grenache (French spelling) in the rest of the world, garnacha, originated in Spain and traveled to southern France in the eighth and ninth centuries. The high altitude, stony soils and arid conditions of Cariñena favor garnacha with a lush, balanced and juicy flavor profile. High toned strawberry, raspberry, and black cherry characteristics make for crowd pleaser wines. Hints of spice and fleshy texture round out its appeal.

Introduce yourself to these delightful wines with the 2015 Bodegas San Valero “Castillo Ducay” ($10), from a cooperative of 700 growers created in 1945. This wine is supplemented with 15% tempranillo and cabernet sauvignon. Young and fruit forward, it presents a husky palate but that is followed by sweet tasting fruit. Grandes Vinos y Viñedos (meaning “great wines and vineyards”) is a large joint venture of five cooperatives with vineyards throughout the region. Created in 1997, between them are responsible for one-third of the wine produced in the appellation. Their 2013 Corona de Aragon Special Selection ($15) is a lush and earthy wine, emblematic of the fine values available from this region.

While tempranillo excels in Spain, it has been much less successful when tried in other countries. On the other hand, while garnacha is important but secondary in Spain, other fine examples are produced in southern France, Australia and certain places in California.

NOTE: Featured image courtesy us.rioja.com.

June 15, 2017

AFFORDABLE WHITE BURGUNDY? YES THEY DO EXIST

I wrote in a recent column on affordable Bordeaux, “(A)s these wines [the top Bordeaux] have reached icon status, their prices have followed into the hundreds and even thousands of dollars – per bottle. Still, it is possible to find good, affordable Bordeaux.” Just change Bordeaux to Burgundy (red or white) and you have the premise of this column.

The most famous (and most expensive) Burgundies (those of the Côte d’Or) have become out of reach for most wine drinkers but it is still possible to find good wines at reasonable prices, if you know where to look. This column centers specifically on white Burgundy. Burgundy is the birthplace of Chardonnay and the wines are 100% chardonnay.

A long time favorite of mine for white Burgundy value is Mâcon-Villages. Located at the southern end of Burgundy, with clay and alluvial soils overlaying limestone, chardonnay flourishes here. Mâcon chardonnay tends to be refreshingly lively and delicate.The large, well-respected négociant Georges Duboeuf offers a typical Mâcon (2015, $20). This unoaked wine presents taut citrus, peach and honeysuckle. The family owned and farmed for five generations Domaine Les Chenevières (2015, $22), also unoaked, is fruitful with citrus, mineral, and a hint of spice.A little to the south, Pouilly-Fuissé likely benefits from more recognition among American consumers, a vestige of its popularity in the last century. Its wines tend to be fuller with deeper fruit than Mâcon-Villages.

Duboeuf also produces a Pouilly-Fuissé (2015, $35). Citrus, apple, melon, and pineapple greet, while modest oak yields a light touch of vanilla, to a lush, lightly spicy finish. From another family owned vineyard (with a 200-year history in the region), Emile Berangér (2015, $40) offers a creamy, texture, bright citrus, pear and apricot. Chablis is a little different of a story. When was the last time you had a glass of Chablis? And I don’t mean the generic boxed or “jug” wine of unknown origin. In another century, some California wineries sold their inexpensive wines with flashy names like Burgundy, Rhine, Chianti, Sherry, Port, and yes, Chablis. These wines had nothing to do with the authentic article, simply capitalizing on the famous name.Located about 1½ hours from Paris, Chablis is the most northern of the Burgundy wine-producing regions. Divided into four different appellations (Petit Chablis, Chablis, Chablis Premier Cru, Chablis Grand Cru), Chablis vineyards spread east and west from the Serein River.

Comprising about 18% of Chablis production, Petit Chablis grapes are grown primarily on younger soils, mostly on the plateaus. These wines are fine everyday values, inviting attention to their refreshing, pure fruit and generally light, lively palate.

Expect aromas and flavors of white flowers mixed with citrusy notes (lemon, grapefruit) and sometimes peach and apricot or pineapple. You might even detect some of the signature mineral and chalky character of Chablis.

From a family that has farmed the area since 1887 and made wine since 1957, the 2015 Domaine du Colombier ($15) offers brisk lime with a steely note.

The 2015 Sebastien Dampt “Terroir de Milly” ($17) is nicely prickly and a bit spicy. Although this family has been making wine in Chablis for over 150 years, this domaine was founded in 2007 by the newest generation.

The 2014 Jean Marc Brocard ($18) comes from a producer with extensive holdings, mostly farmed organic or biodynamic. This one shows some mineral, to its lively grapefruit, offset with a touch of honey.

Finally, a producer working with a cooperative of nearly 300 growers, the 2014 La Chablisienne “Pas si Petit” ($19) reflects its name (“not so little”) with intense gooseberry, a touch of grapefruit and honey.

As a bonus, these wines are versatile accompaniments to food, nicely complimenting egg dishes, a variety of fish, shellfish and raw seafood, picnic foods, even grilled and barbecue foods. And they are ideal as an aperitif.

June 13, 2017June 15, 2017

CARMÉNÈRE FROM CHILE: THE NEXT HOT RED GRAPE?

Not altogether unlike malbec in Argentina, carménère came to Chile from France (specifically Bordeaux) in the latter 1800s. An offspring of cabernet franc, it now is almost exclusively grown in Chile. Even there, it still lives in the shadow of cabernet sauvignon but is poised to become Chile’s signature grape, again as with malbec in Argentina.

Apparently from the beginning, largely due to poor recordkeeping, what many growers thought to be merlot was actually carménère. In the late 1980’s, Viña Carmen became the first to discover this and it proved true throughout Chile. Many producers ripped out their carménère to replant with real merlot but, luckily for us, many others decided to keep the carménère. By 1996, wineries began to release varietally labeled Carménère.

Benefitting from the long, warm growing seasons in such sites as the Colchagua, Maipo and Maule valleys, this late ripener can produce world-class wines. As with any wine grape, there are regional variations but Carménère wines have evolved over the ensuing 20 years from rustic (a bit rough with too much green character) to over extracted and tannic an more recently to fresh, lush and moderate alcohol.

Most Carménère now (when allowed to ripen properly) supplies intense, rich red and black fruit, some spice (even fresh tobacco, coffee, cocoa, leather), smooth texture, and solid but supple tannins. As with most grapes, some blending – usually with cabernet sauvignon, petite verdot or syrah – benefits the final wine. It helps that the wines are food friendly (particularly poultry, game and rich vegetable dishes).

Quality has reached the point where prices for the best wines can approach $100 a bottle. But, assuming most readers are unfamiliar with the grape, I suggest starting at the introductory level. With one exception, none of the wines below are more than $20 retail and they all deliver a lot of character for the money.

2013 Viña Maipo Gran Devoción ($25). Founded in 1948 in the Maipo Valley, Maipo has been owned by Concha y Toro, the largest Chilean wine company, since 1968. This Carménère/Syrah (15% syrah) offers red fruits, peppery spice and a lush texture.

2012 Viña Maquis ($20). This 100 year-old, family owned winery uses estate grown fruit, including 15% cabernet franc, to craft a wine with aromas of red plum and boysenberry and a light woody note, with good depth, a fresh mouthfeel, and hint of anise.

2013 Viña Ventisquero “Grey” ($20). Barely twenty years old, Ventisquero’s “Grey” portfolio features a single block of vines, in this case from the Trinidad Vineyard in Maipo Valley. You’ll find strong tobacco, dark berries, savory notes and fresh tannins.

2013 Casa Silva Cuvee Colchagua ($15). Another family owned winery, this one dates to 1892 with connections to the valley’s first European settlers. Expect straightforward, jammy black fruit, peppery and woody notes with cocoa and a soft texture.

2014 Viña Santa Carolina Cachapoal Estate Reserva ($11). Founded in 1875, basically in what now is the city of Santiago, this is Chile’s third largest wine producer. From the La Rinconada Estate in Rapel Valley, there is a lot of wine here – succulent blackberry and plum, oaky and spicy, with mild tannins – from not much money.

2011 Viña Carmen Gran Reserva Apalta Vineyard ($16). Founded in 1850, this is one of the oldest names in Chilean wine and now one of the country’s largest wineries. Enjoy aromas of toasty oak and spicy herbs with fresh berries and soft texture. Blended with 4% carignan and 2% tempranillo.

2013 Criterion Collection Reserva ($16). From a négociant who buys wines from several countries, this one has a nice balance of berries, hints of brown spices and a savory notes. A good introduction the grape.

Looking for a different wine experience? With its distinctive flavor profile, food friendliness and generally reasonable prices Carménère from Chile deserves more consumer attention. It certainly has mine.

June 13, 2017June 13, 2017

HORSE HEAVEN HILLS: WASHINGTON’S PREMIER VINEYARD

Over the last couple of decades, the state of Washington has emerged as a premier winegrowing region, second only to California in the U.S. and the Horse Heaven Hills is one the reasons. Technically a sub-appellation of the massive Columbia Valley, it has been the source of some of Washington’s most celebrated wines.

Horse Heaven Hills is located in south central Washington along the Washington-Oregon border. Naturally bounded on the north by the Yakima Valley and on the south by the Columbia River, the Horse Heaven Hills had its first vinifera plantings in 1972 at what is now Champoux Vineyard but wasn’t designated as its own appellation until 2005. The area has an arid and semi-arid, continental climate, receiving an average of 9 inches of precipitation annually. It is among Washington’s warmer growing regions, though, it is noticeably more moderate closer to the river. Proximity to the Columbia River results in very windy conditions. Although the winds tend to stress the vines and toughen grape skins, they have a moderating effect on temperature extremes and protect against vine diseases, mold and rot.

Of its 570,000 acres, nearly 15,000 are planted to grapes, around 27% of the state’s total. Of the total 37 varieties planted, two-thirds of the acreage is planted to red wine grapes – mostly cabernet sauvignon and merlot but also cabernet franc, malbec, syrah and zinfandel – and one-third to white wine grapes – mostly chardonnay and riesling but also sauvignon blanc.

Located about 3 ½ hours from Seattle or 3 hours from Portland, the nearest wine country towns are Richland (45 minutes) and Prosser (30 minutes). This still is primarily a growing region, not really focused on tourism. There are more than thirty vineyards but only six commercial wineries and one tasting room. The first wine grape plantings were in 1972 but it wasn’t designated its own appellation until 2005. This still is primarily a growing region, not really focused on tourism. There are more than thirty vineyards but only six commercial wineries and one tasting room.

But the proof is in the wines. Below is a sampling of the quality available:

2012 Chateau St. Michelle Cabernet Sauvignon ($28). This winery is THE big player in Washington wine with a history back to the 1930s. Its Canoe Ridge Estate vineyard, planted in 1991, is the source for this and several perennial values. It lush texture displays rich dark and blue fruits, fresh oak, eucalyptus and cocoa.

Columbia Crest Horse Heaven Hills Vineyard — Columbia Crest H3 Vineyard

2013 Columbia Crest “H_3” Cabernet Sauvignon ($15). From a major brand within the St. Michelle portfolio that has been one of the best value brands in the world since its debut in 1984, H₃is, of course, the label they use for wines made of Horse Heaven Hills’ grapes. Its forward plum and blueberry fruit dance with fresh oak on a satiny floor that delivers way above its price level.

2013 Mercer Cabernet Sauvignon ($20). The Mercer family surprisingly has a long history in the area, with ancestors arriving here in 1886. They were the first to plant wine grapes in the area in 1972 on a site that is now the famous Champoux vineyard. But it wasn’t until 2005 that the family decided to make their own wine.. But they didn’t make their own wine until 2005. This Cabernet has nicely integrated plum and creamy oak, a light dusty note with friendly prune, currant and herbal notes finishing fresh.

2010 Coyote Canyon Vineyard H/H Estates Reserve “Big John Cab” ($32). Although the vineyard was planted in 1994, the owners didn’t make their own wine until 2006. This one has plump dark fruits, light earth/forest notes, and a hint of eucalyptus in a light frame finishing lively.

2013 Alexandria Nicole “Quarry Butte” ($26). From the estate Destiny Ridge Vineyard (planted in 1998), this blend is 56% cabernet sauvignon, 22% merlot, 10% cabernet franc and dabs of malbec, syrah and petit verdot. It bursts with bright blackberry and black currant delivered in a firm but lush texture, accented with fresh tobacco.

2012 Buty Columbia Rediviva ($50). From the Phinny Hill Vineyard, this 84% cabernet sauvignon, 16% syrah wine opens with herbal and spice notes that quickly give way to rich black cherry and plum gliding along the mouth with an inviting texture finishing with ample but refined tannins suggesting a long life and easily justifying its price. Founded in 2000, Buty has emerged as one of Washington’s best wineries.

NOTE: Featured image courtesy of Horse Heaven Hills Winegrowers

June 13, 2017June 13, 2017

Rhône Valley Values

Some of my favorite wines anywhere have their origin in the south of France, particularly the Rhône Valley. The valley, which runs roughly from Vienne in the north to Avignon in the south, is divided geographically and viticulturally into two regions – north and south. Most Rhône wines are red, though there are a few notable whites.

The Northern Rhône is syrah country. The best wines from the best appellations in this continental climate tend toward substance, power, intensely concentrated fruit and strong tannins. The two leading appellations – Hermitage and Côte Rôtie – achieve this with a unique elegance and finesse that makes places them among the most prestigious wines anywhere. But this makes their prices almost uniformly out of rear for most wine drinkers.

Not far behind in quality but more accessible in price is Cornas, about ten miles south of Hermitage. A good example is the 2014 Domaine Vincent Paris “Granit 30” ($40). Bright red and black fruit, concentrated but fresh, balanced with floral, mineral and savory notes, robust but supple textured, delicious now but should be even better in 5 years.

Other appellations that vie for a place at the alternative table include St. Joseph. But Crozes-Hermitage has the advantage of coming from vineyards lying adjacent to Hermitage (even though on flat terroir to the east and south of Hermitage hill and having Hermitage in its name. From a négociant with a reputation at the top of the wine world, the 2013 E. Guigal ($30) is typical of the area. Fruit forward and charming with moderate intensity, its red fruit and plum mingle with herbs and spice on a light texture begging for early consumption.

The southern Rhône, with its proximity to the Mediterranean also has several appellations of interest, the most famous being Châteauneuf du Pape. Others include Vacqueyras, Rasteau and Cairanne. In contrast to the northern Rhône, grenache is the most prominent grape and most of the wines are blends (primarily grenache, syrah, mourvedre and cinsault, cunoise and carignan)

Arguably the best after Châteauneuf is Gigondas about fifteen miles northeast. Its vineyards often produce heady wines of power and strength that equal or even surpass Châteauneuf. One such wine is the 2012 Xavier ($35). Its cuvée of 85% grenache, 10% mourvedre and 5% syrah yields a medium-bodied wine of grace, with delightful red fruits, tealeaves, spicy herbs, and evergreen. Another nice option is the 2011 Domaine Gour de Chaule “Cuvée Tradition” ($32). From a 117-year-old estate, the 80% grenache, 10% syrah, and 10% mourvèdre blend is medium-bodied, nicely rustic but fresh and packed with dark fruits accented with leather, tobacco and spice.

There are also great everyday values to be found in this region. Some nice wines are available from Costières De Nîmes and Côtes du Ventoux but the Côtes du Rhône (the most common appellation in the region) typically are the best. Solid and flavorful, they represent some of the best red wine values in the world.

E. Guigal produces one of the consistently best Côtes du Rhône. The 2013 ($19) with 50% syrah, 45% grenache and 5% mourvedre is a much more intense wine than what one would expect with tons of ripe dark fruit a lush texture, savory and earthy and notes. And the 2014 Côtes du Rhône Blanc ($19) is just as good, showing the Rhone can do well with white wines, too. Almost 2/3 viognier, its pure citrus and tangerine fruit is crisp yet graceful finishing with a touch of almond.

Another reliable producer is Les Dauphins whose 2015 Reserve ($13), with 70% grenache, 25% syrah and 5% mourvedre, offers up front fruit, with herbal and earthy notes and an easygoing texture. The winery also has a fine Côtes du Rhône-Villages. These are wines from a legally designated village that typically more character. The 2014 “Puyméras” ($20) is a single vineyard wine with 70% grenache, 20% syrah and 10% carignan is more aromatic with deeper red berry fruit and hints of chocolate and spice.

Finally, I finish with a little bit of a ringer. Many other wines from the south of France, such as the large Languedoc-Roussillon appellation, also are worth seeking out. The Coteaux du Languedoc, which neighbors the western border of the southern Rhone Valley, is such a place.

And Chateau Paul Mas, with a 125-year viticultural heritage in the area, is such a producer. The 2013 “Clos des Mûres” ($20) is a single vineyard wine of 85% syrah, 10% grenache noir and 5% mourvedre. It’s quite full offering ripe berries and cassis with toasty oak and herbal notes. Another single vineyard wine, the 2013 “Belluguette” ($20) is another fine white with 40% vermentino, 30% roussanne, 20% grenache blanc and 10% viognier. This cuvée yields an impressively creamy and richly textured wine. It delivers succulent apricot peach apple and tropical fruits, yet drinks fresh and lively.

June 12, 2017June 12, 2017

TIRED OF THE SAME OLD CALIFORNIA REDS?

Although cabernet sauvignon, merlot and pinot noir remain the most popular red varietal California wines, if you’re like me you crave something different now and then (maybe more often). No matter how much I might like certain grape varieties, I still delight in trying different ones.

One of my favorite “alternative reds” is petite sirah, a variety that has been gaining in well-deserved appreciation in recent years. Despite this, I wonder how many wine drinkers have tried this Rhone Valley origin grape on its own. I bet more often they have drunk it hidden in a blend.

It often has been commented that there is nothing petite about Petite Sirah wines. While they often display a flavor profile similar to their parent syrah – dark berries, tobacco, leather, earth, mineral and pepper, with an ability to age well, they typically are wines of deep color, dense structure, rustic body and agibility.

The following wines are excellent introductions to Petite Sirah and excellent values considering fine quality.

2013 Clayhouse Red Cedar Vineyard Old Vines ($23). From Paso Robles, its meaty, roasted notes overlay ripe red fruits in a dense, husky texture.

2014 Peachy Canyon ($32). Another Paso Robles wine, it is well integrated with black fruits and black pepper; oaky and full, rustic tannin leads to a creamy finish,

2013 Edmeades Mendocino County ($35). Full and tight, with dark berries, spice and smoke, this drinks with an underlying softness while ushering strong tannins.

Another French grape, malbec, has gained a lot of popularity in the U.S. recently. But, of course, that attraction has been directed at Malbec wines from Argentina, not California, where it is used largely as a minor blending grape in Bordeaux-style wines. That recent appeal has been based largely on those wines’ up front, round fruit and lush textures. They are user friendly and eminently drinkable – and affordable. Try these California Malbecs and you might be surprised how the grape can deliver equal quality here, too.

2013 Clayhouse Red Cedar Vineyard Malbec ($14). Rather jammy with sweet berries, it’s fresh and a bit sweet with a tart finish.

2014 Jamieson Ranch Whiplash ($16). Another fruit forward malbec, it suggests fresh oak and drinks grapey with a chalky palate.

2013 Rodney Strong Sonoma County Reserve ($40). This inaugural release shows strong earth, black fruit and oak toast; it’s full, structured and deeply fruited.

Often, when I’m looking for a change of pace, I turn to Italy and Spain for inspiration. Tempranillo is arguably Spain’s most important red grape. It is responsible for the famous Rioja and Ribera de Duero, along with countless regional wines. Apart from regional variations, typically it produces an aromatic wine with solid acidity, leathery red fruits and earthy qualities.

2014 Castoro Cellars Whale Rock Vineyard Reserve ($24). From an organic vineyard in Paso Robles, I enjoyed its forest notes, red fruits, and its full and dusty texture.

2012 Artesa Limited Release ($45). From Napa Valley, the heart of cabernet country, this has deep black cherry, creamy oak and a fresh resiny, but elegant texture.

As with Tempranillo in Spain, Sangiovese is arguably Italy’s most important red grape. Although it also presents red fruit qualities, its wines tend to be brisker and higher toned, with savory notes

2013 Frank Family Reserve Winston Hill Vineyard ($65). This serious wine shows well integrated oak with bright, leathery cherry, baking spices, and fresh tannin.

2013 Palumbo Bella Vigna Vineyard ($45). From Temecula in the south coast, this is smoky and woody with pure, high toned red fruit, and chocolate accents.

NOTE: FEATURED IMAGE COURTESY OF FRANK FAMILY VINEYARDS

April 27, 2017

YES, VIRGINIA, THERE IS AFFORDABLE BORDEAUX

When I first became interested in wine I actually was able to afford upper class Bordeaux on occasion. Even on a college student’s budget. Of course, it helped that I worked at a liquor store and received a (small) discount. Still, there is no chance of this happening today.

The cru classés (classified growths) of the Haut-Medoc on the “Left Bank” of the Gironde estuary get most of the attention from wine media and professionals. But, as these wines have reached icon status, their prices have followed into the hundreds and even thousands of dollars – per bottle. Still, it is possible to find good, affordable Bordeaux.

On the “Right Bank,” wine of the Côtes de Bordeaux appellation – areas surrounding the villages of Blaye, Castillon, Cadillac and Francs – can deliver extreme value. The wines tend to be dominated by merlot and often use less oak than their Médoc neighbors and have less alcohol than comparable California wine. They can be enjoyed younger than most Medoc. The wines below offer a good introduction.

Castillon: An area of historical significance as the site where The Hundred Years’ War ended. One of the best estate’s is Château Pitray whose 2012 ($15) is fresh with pure blueberry and woodsy, loamy notes, soft tannin but good structure.

Cadillac: Better known for its sweet white wines. The 2012 Château Chatard ($15) shows this region can play in the red wine league, too. It is soft and easygoing with good red fruit, dusty oak, and full but a lean, woody frame.

Francs: An area known for prehistoric Lascaux cave paintings. The 2012 Château Lauriol ($16) provides nice blueberry, then creamy, integrated oak; full, dark and dense, it is quite tannic.

Blaye: An historic fortified town also an important river port in Roman times. The 2014 Château Les Vieux Moulin “Pirouette” ($17) offers a soft style with earthy black fruits, fresh tannin, finishing a little bitter.

Bordeaux values also exist on the Left Bank, especially the Cru Bourgeois of the Haut-Médoc appellation. Though of less prestige than the cru classes, they offer significantly lower prices but not significantly lower quality. Two good ones: 2012 Château Bibian ($22) near the village of Listrac has focused, fresh red fruit, caramelized, woody notes, good concentration and firm tannin. 2012 Château Landat ($20) near the village of Cissac has intense black cherry fruit, decidedly full and firm.

Finally, another way to find value at a higher price point is to seek out the “second wine” of a classified growth.

As an example, the flagship wine of the St. Emilion estate Château Lassègue is its Grand Cru (2010, $90). It is a dense, muscular wine, with copious dark fruits oaky lushness, and structure to last. But the wine is priced out of reach of most of us. The estate’s second wine, Les Cadrans de Lassègue (2012, $35), is more accessible yet still quite good. Enticing plum and cassis flavors, notable forest and oak notes preview a solid, rather full wine with firm tannins.