Author: Rich

When it comes to American wine, most of us tend to think of California. Certainly, California wine dominates production and store shelves. But we would be remiss if we did not seek out wines from other states. In this case, I’m thinking of Washington, the second largest wine producing state in the nation.

It’s amazing, in 1996 there were 80 wineries; today there are over 850. But more important has been the dramatic increase in quality. Here I have assembled just a few examples to hopefully encourage you to embark on your own exploration.

Buty Winery, the fifteen year old project of Nina Buty, has quickly taken a place among the state’s best. Notable for its commitment to a natural winemaking, Buty also focuses on crafting innovative blends. Such as the 2010 “Rediviva of the Stones” ($60) – syrah, cabernet sauvignon and mourvèdre, which entices with its intense aromatics and flavors of red and black fruits, pepper, baking spices, finesse, and lively mouthfeel.

Another signature of Buty wines is a lively, vibrant character as seen in the 2013 Semillon, Sauvignon and Muscadelle ($25), which entices with lively citrus and fig while also displaying creamy richness. Buty also produces a lower priced line called BEAST that sources a wider variety of grapes and  vineyards. The 2012 “Wildebeest” ($25) is a fine value combining syrah, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, malbec and mourvèdre to produce abundant plum and berry with leafy notes and a sleek texture.

The Middleton family has worked the land in Washington since 1898 but only established Cadaretta in Walla Walla in 2005.  Their dedication and experience shows in the 2011 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($40), fairly full-bodied with dense, ripe currant, hints of herbs and supple texture. Firm tannins should help it develop for 10 years.

Even more impressive is the 2011 “Springboard” ($50). Essentially Cadaretta’s reserve, it is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Petit Verdot. It exudes dark berries and plum accented with touches of earth, herbs and spice. While it is fairly full-bodied, with a welcoming mouth feel, strong tannins and abundant fruit suggest a long life.

Tom Hedges and Anne-Marie Liégeois established Hedges Family Estate in 1987 and are considered pioneers of Red Mountain appellation, which has become one of Washington’s most highly regarded regions. Today, their daughter, winemaker Sarah, and son, General Manager Christophe, carry on the family tradition. The 2012 Red Mountain ($27) – 60% cabernet sauvignon and 26% merlot with dabs of syrah, cabernet franc and malbec – shows bright cherry and red currant with herbs and tobacco balanced with fresh tannins that keep it all lingering on the finish.

The Hedges family also is respectful of their history, as is seen with the 2012 Descendants Liegeois Dupont “Cuvée Marcel Dupont” Les Gosses Vineyard ($27). A tribute to Anne-Marie’s grandfather, this Syrah tilts to the earthy and spicy side of the grape with fennel and black pepper dominating the sweet/tart cherry flavors.

Speaking of pioneers, for 53 years Columbia Winery has been a leader in the development of Washington wine. Now owned by Gallo, new Winemaker Sean Hails has replaced the late, iconic winemaker David Lake. Working closely with several well-established growers, Hails crafts wines that are more than anything just good values.

Wines like the 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay ($14) are varietally correct, with lively fruit and an easy drinking style ideal for everyday enjoyment. On the other hand, the “Composition” Red Blend ($14), a multivintage blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, plus syrah, malbec, and petit verdot, has juicy blackberry and cherry with hints of spice, soft tannins and a lingering finish.

Finally, more good values are available from the Middleton family’s Buried Cane label. Try the 2013 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($14) for its sweet dark berries with hints of chalk, mint and pepper delivered on a soft palate with good grip on finish. The

2011 Columbia Valley Red Wine ($25) is more complex with dark fruits and forest notes, black licorice and black pepper.

Wine grapes have been grown in Oregon since the mid-1800’s but it really wasn’t until the 1960’s when the seeds, actually the vines, were sown for the development of the internationally renowned wine industry we know today. With nearly 700 wineries, the state has become synonymous with world class Pinot Noir.

Oregon also has blazed the trail in the sustainable agriculture movement with increasing numbers of wineries participating in certification programs like LIVE (Low Input Viticulture and Enology, Inc.), “Salmon Safe”, organic and sustainable farming practices, and Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) Green Building certification.

But it still comes down to what’s in the bottle. As a group, the wines in this report show pure fruit, admirable ripeness and solid acidity. They aren’t inexpensive but most have avoided the price inflation of comparable wines from Burgundy and California.

When it comes to American Pinot noir, few possess the rich history and experience of Ponzi Vineyards. Dick and Nancy Ponzi planted their estate in 1970 within view of the nearby Chehalem Mountains and quickly became leaders in growing the Willamette Valley and Oregon wine in general to international recognition. Daughters Luisa and Maria Ponzi, Winemaker and President respectively, now continue the family tradition. The family also has been in the forefront of the responsible stewardship/sustainable agriculture movement.

And their wines are a fail-safe introduction to the Willamette Valley. The entry-level Tavola (2014, $25), made from younger estate vines and fruit from nearby growers, is a great value. The signature 2013 Willamette Valley ($40) has good balance and length with juicy black cherry and hints of vanilla, anise and sassafras, delivered with a sleek texture. The flagship 2012 Reserve ($60) is complex with abundant aromas and flavors of red berries and oak-imparted vanilla and spice but harmonizes power and elegance.

In 1983, Jim Bernau began planting what became Willamette Valley Vineyards. Since then, he and his partners have displayed innovation and forward thinking – from an intriguing community based funding model (today we call it “crowd funding”) and leadership in the responsible stewardship movement to grow into one of Oregon’s premier wineries.

An example of that creativity is the 2014 Whole Cluster ($22), made using partial carbonic maceration like Beaujolais and stainless steel fermentation. It is bright and fruity with appealing fresh berries. The 2013 Estate ($30) is inviting with lively red cherry and plum and light herb and tobacco notes, finishing with a fine grip. The 2012 Bernau Block ($55) is a single vineyard expression showing admirable complexity with bright red fruits accented by light touches of spice and licorice in a nicely structured frame.

Raptor Ridge is a location in the Chehalem Mountains and the name of the winemaking project Scott Shull founded just 20 years ago. He oversees winemaking and his partner Annie directs marketing and sales. Their 2013 Barrel Select Willamette ($30) is a nice cuvée from multiple vineyard sites; very approachable red and dark fruit, with suggestions of mint and tannin. The 2012 Estate Vineyard ($45) is excellent with ripe and round plum and red cherry scents, noticeable oak, fine tannin, and savory mocha notes on the finish.

Left Coast Cellars is another young winery, in this case founded in 2003 by Suzanne and Robert Pfaff. And they are another Oregon winery dedicated to sustainability and community. Also, the wines are made from estate fruit, even the entry-level 2013 Cali’s Cuvee ($24). Intended for early enjoyment, it’s light flavors of plums and strawberries benefit with a bit of earth. The signature single vineyard wine, 2013 Latitude 45° ($36) displays dark cherry, baking spices and tea leaves delivered in a graceful palate.

Finally, enjoy the first foray into Oregon by California’s Jackson Family Wines, under the moniker of their Pinot Noir and Chardonnay specialist, La Crema. The 2013 Willamette Valley ($30) sports plum and cherry fruit compote in an easily enjoyable style with enticing oak and a lush texture.

Burgundy. It’s a word that for many came to be synonymous with red wine – as in, “May I have a glass of Burgundy?” – like “Champagne” came to refer to any sparkling wine. As with Champagne, though, Burgundy (Bourgogne in French) is a specific geographic reference and in the wine world, it is a term that is legally regulated.

Also, with a few small exceptions (notably the gamay-based wines of Beaujolais), it is only two grapes – chardonnay for the whites and pinot noir for the reds. Geographically, the province stretches from Chablis in the north south to Dijon and on to Lyon. The most celebrated growing region is the Côte d’Or (slopes of gold), referring the color of the vines in the fall just south of Dijon.

It is this small area that has made Burgundy the benchmark for the concept of terroir. Over centuries, growers (initially Benedictine and Cistercian monks) came to delineate ever smaller demarcations of vineyards. In recognition of differences in soils, weather, climate and vegetation, these two grapes are seen as the best vehicles of expression for each site. The winemaker, of course, is important but in this view secondary.

For the purposes of this column, my recent tasting of the wines of Maison Roche de Bellene is a good illustration. Maison Roche de Bellene is the négociant business (makes wine with fruit purchased from other growers) of Nicolas Potel, a highly regarded winemaker in Burgundy, who also owns Domaine de Bellene (all estate-owned vineyards). The emphasis is on old vines – usually 40-80 years old and the wines are labeled Vieilles Vignes – that are farmed sustainably, in some cases organically and some even biodynamically.

Three of the four wines in my tasting are what is known as “village wines,” meaning they were sourced from vineyards surrounding the designated village. Village wines are considered to be of higher quality and cost more that a regional wine (simply labeled “Bourgogne”). While not cheap by any definition, they represent relative good values compared to the next levels in quality – Premier Cru and Grand Cru – as those wines can reach a cost of several hundred dollars a bottle (which also explains why there were none of these in my tasting).

The first thing I noticed with all these wines was the relatively light, translucent color, especially when compared to California and Oregon Pinot Noir. The second was penetrating aromatics of mostly red fruits (mainly cherry, also strawberry) with brown spice and an earthy quality. Third, in tasting the wines, higher acidity gave a sense of fresher but drier fruit, while that earthy quality also was present, often with an enticing note of black licorice.

The first two wines came from prestigious communes in the Côte de Nuits, the name for the northern half of the Côte d’Or that many say produces the epitome of pinot noir. I found the 2011 Chambolle-Musigny ($86) typical of the area, balancing elegance and finesse with power and depth. The 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin ($64), from a nearby commune, had a more intense aroma with tea and tobacco notes. Surrounded by possibly the greatest collection of vineyards in all of Burgundy, its intensity and firm structure complimented a purity of fruit and loamy shadings.

But it was the 2011 Volnay ($64), from a highly regarded village in the Côte de Beaune, the southern part of the Côte d’Or that many prize more for its whites, that impressed me the most. It started out with dark fruit and spice notes, even cayenne followed by a round, lush palate with a solid structure finishing fresh. While the Volnay is immediately enjoyable, the Chambolle and Gevrey are more likely to improve over time.

If even these are too rich for you, seek out the 2012 Bourgogne ($21). It is the most affordable and accessible and delivered a lot for a wine for the money. It’s worth the search for a taste of real Burgundy.

I began this series on Pinot Noir with the Burgundy region of France, the historical benchmark for the grape; followed with Oregon Pinot Noir, considered by many to be the Burgundy of the New World. Now it’s California, which knowledgeable consumers know rivals and sometimes exceeds Burgundy and Oregon.

With numerous appellations along a 500-mile stretch from Mendocino to Santa Barbara sourcing fine Pinot Noir, I have had to pare down my report to a shopping list of the best from my recent tastings.

While it remains a challenge to find California Pinot Noir with a consumer friendly price/quality relationship, my tastings did turn up several values. I was especially impressed with the 2012 Alta Maria Santa Maria Valley ($28) and 2013 Jackson Estate Anderson Valley ($30). Each is a spectacular value. The following are solid everyday wines that deliver good quality at a reasonable price:

• 2013 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve ($20)
• From Russian River Valley

2012 Frei Brothers Reserve ($27)

2013 Rodney Strong ($25)

2013 Ron Rubin ($25)

• From Monterey

2013 Chloe ($17)

2013 Liberated ($20)

2013 J. Lohr “Falcon’s Perch” ($17)

2012 Wente “Riva Ranch” ($25)

2013 Talbott “Logan” ($25)

Mendocino County: especially the Anderson Valley, and Goldeneye is one of the best. Each of these wines is excellent.

• 2012 Anderson Valley ($55) intense but focused
• 2012 Gowan Creek Vineyard ($82) inviting fruit, enticing herbs
• 2012 Confluence Vineyard ($82) complex, layered
• 2012 The Narrows Vineyard ($82) rich, full and tannic
• 2012 Split Rail Vineyard ($82) wild berry and dried herb
• 2012 Ten Degrees ($115) complete and balanced

Russian River Valley: one of two top Sonoma County sources of world class Pinot

• 2012 MacRostie ($42) like cherry pie with baking spices
• 2012 Patz & Hall “Chenoweth Ranch” ($60) structured opulence from one of the best of the tasting

Sonoma Coast: California’s newest “hot” region for Pinot Noir but Cobb Wines was one of the first there 26 years ago.

• 2012 Diane Cobb: Coastlands Vineyard ($85) a spectacular wine of vivid fruit, enticing texture and dramatic earthbound complexity

Two other Cobb wines were remarkable for their abundant flavor despite low alcohol:

• 2012 Emmaline Ann Vineyard ($75) subtle but extremely well defined
• 2012 Rice-Spivak Vineyard ($75) deep with a bright beam of red fruit

Other top notch Sonoma Coast:

• 2012 MacRostie Goldrock Ridge ($54) dominant earth and spice nearly equaled by concentrated fruit
• 2013 Patz & Hall “Jenkins Ranch” ($60) top tier for its impressive complexity, packed with layers of fruit and savory qualities
• 2013 Patz & Hall Sonoma Coast ($46) lush, lively fruit
• 2013 Patz & Hall “Gap’s Crown Vineyard” ($70) powerful sweet oak and fruit with the right touch of earth

Carneros: Straddling the southern end of Sonoma and Napa

• 2012 Patz & Hall “Hyde Vineyard” ($70) an amazing rich, complex, harmonious, and pure wine, one of the most remarkable wines of my tastings
• 2012 Frank Family Carneros ($35) deep, ripe black cherry accented with light oak and sleek texture

Monterey County: From one of the region’s Pinot Noir pioneers, several of Talbott Vineyards wines starred in my tastings.

Two wines from their first vineyard reflect different selections of Dijon clones:

• 2012 Diamond T ($52) distinguished by deep, dark fruit, strong spice and heady alcohol
• 2012 Diamond T “RFT” ($75) red berries and sharp acidity, less herbal but plenty of richness

Santa Lucia Highlands: a highly regarded Monterey sub-appellation

• 2013 Talbott “Sarah Case” Sleepy Hollow Vineyard ($75) dramatic savory mushroom and bracing acidity
• 2012 Patz & Hall Pisoni Vineyard ($90) a complete portfolio of fantastic fruit, oak, earth and texture, highly recommended

Santa Barbara County: rivalling with Sonoma as California’s best Pinot Noir region

• 2012 Alta Maria “Bien Nacido Vineyard” Santa Maria Valley ($48) rich, layered, full flavored and extremely spicy
• 2012 Sea Smoke Santa Ynez Valley “Southing” ($60) elegant and seductive, rich and full bodied with beautifully concentrated fruit, a stunning wine

Wine has been made in Argentina at least as long and probably longer than in the U.S. but it really is in just the last ten years or so that Argentinian wine – most notably Malbec, Argentina’s “signature grape” – has emerged in the U.S. market. More and more people who used to order a Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon now are enticed to request a Malbec.

Of course, it helps that the wines are user friendly and eminently drinkable. But this growing popularity is mostly due to the welcoming prices (many at $20 or less). These wines hit the value sweet spot. Below are several new releases (only one will set you back serious money) that would be fine choices for everyday drinking.

Malbec, a minor blending grape in Bordeaux (though important in Cahors) experiences some sort of alchemy in Argentina’s high desert soils. Mendoza in the northwestern part of the country is the primary source, though other regions have gotten into the act successfully. Much good quality Mendoza Malbec can be had for $15 or less and you will get up front, round fruit and lush textures for your money. Good options from my recent tastings:

• 2012 Septima ($11) – a new winery with Spanish ownership farming high altitude vineyards
• 2012 Rutini “Trumpeter” ($11) – dating from 1885 and now owned by the Argentinian icon Nicolas Catena, this is his value brand
• 2013 Arido ($12) – notable for its complete lack of oak influence emphasizing bright fruit
• 2013 Argento Reserva ($14) – producing solid wines from high altitude vineyards since 1998
• 2013 Gascon ($14) –vineyards dating to 1884 produce a flavorful, friendly wine

For a little more money expect more intense fruit and a bit more structure.

• 2012 Trapiche “Broquel” ($18) – Argentina’s largest exported brand and one of its oldest wineries (1883) still delivers quality with its “shield” label
• 2011 Rutini “Encuentro” ($19) – meaning “encounter” or  “meeting” of fine Argentinean fruit and an international style, this is very full flavored
• 2011 Kirkland “Signature Series” ($20) – the upper tier of the house brand of Costco provides impressive quality for a high production wine
• 2011 Tomero Reserva ($25) – from the winery’s well situated estate vineyard

Those who prefer Cabernet Sauvignon also will find something to love from the 2012 Trapiche “Broquel” ($18), which delivers fine varietal quality.

Many producers also have found success blending Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2013 Vistalba “Corte C” ($18) at 76% malbec and 14% cabernet sauvignon and 10% bonarda is elegant, yet structured and full of fruit.  The 2012 Layer Cake “Sea of Stones” Red Wine ($15) blends malbec, cabernet sauvignon, syrah, and petit verdot but the signature taste is stone, wrapping sweet fruit with a touch of spice.

The most expensive wine in my tastings – the 2011 Vistalba “Corte B” ($30) – was also the best. At 51% malbec, 37% bonarda and 12% cabernet sauvignon, it’s firm structure, pure dark fruit with tobacco, and refined texture is worth the extra change. It is enjoyable now but will improve over time.

The most interesting white wine comes from torrontés, which is unique to Argentina but has been shown to be the offspring of Mediterranean varieties. While most of the celebrated bottlings come from the northern regions of La Rioja, especially Salta, the 2013 Tomero Mendoza ($17) was typically aromatic, with a mélange of melon, apple, lemon, tangerine and pear in a light, crisp frame.

All in all, a very impressive showing. These two varieties of European origin that have adapted so well to Argentina’s terroir deliver high quality and flavor interest at reasonable prices. Although Argentina’s economy is struggling (whose economy isn’t!) and the wine industry is not unaffected, we are lucky the wines just keep getting better. New growing areas, new varieties, new blends, they all are worth your attention.

This is the story of an immigrant who came to America from humble origins, how America welcomed that immigrant and today that immigrant has become an American original.

No one knows for sure how this dark skinned immigrant got into the country. Maybe it was Hungarian Count Agoston Haraszthy who is known to have brought many European grape vine cuttings here in the mid-1800s. The records, as with many immigrants of the time, are scarce and unclear.

And while the zinfandel grape, like so many others grown in California, actually has a European origin (Croatia and southern Italy!), it is the only one that makes indisputably better wine in California than anywhere else. California Zinfandel wine captures the essence of exuberance and zest in a glass. Although it can be made in different styles, it typically is big and bold, with lively raspberry, cherry and blackberry fruit accented with spice and a brash, even a little wild character often described as “briar” or “bramble.” It also represents great value, as most of even the best wines are under $50.

One of the first places the grape arrived in the state was the Sierra Foothills where it was brought from northeastern states during the time of the California Gold Rush. Many of those descending upon the region were European immigrants and brought with them a taste for wine. Soon zinfandel was the most widely planted grape. Many of these settlers found more fortune growing grapes than mining gold.

Building on that heritage, Renwood has become known for its mountain grown Zinfandels since its founding in 1993. I have always enjoyed the brawny, rustic style of the Fiddletown bottling (2012, $25) balanced with deep fruit and pepper. A real treat is the 2012 Grandpère ($40), from Renwood’s estate vineyard. It is bold and full-bodied with tons of berry fruit, yet polished.

Many of those “49ers” eventually made their way about 150 miles west, to places like the Redwood Valley in Mendocino County and the Dry Creek Valley in Sonoma County where again they planted grapes, most of which was zinfandel. They were joined by many Italian immigrants in the later half of the century, a development that further increased interest in zinfandel.

While Edmeades Winery wasn’t established in Mendocino until 1972, the winery quickly built a reputation as a Zinfandel specialist. It produces several single vineyard wines that harken to the area’s Italian immigrant heritage – Perli and Gianoli from Mendocino Ridge, and Piffero from Redwood Valley. The current releases (all 2013 vintage and $31) come from high elevation vineyards and share a deep ripeness of fruit. The Perli is especially complex and enticing.

A few decades later, in 1927, the Pendroncelli family purchased a winery in the Dry Creek Valley, just in time for Prohibition. The Pedroncellis survived, though, and wine consumers are all the better for it. The family still produces trustworthy Zins and maintains a humble pricing philosophy. The 2012 Bushnell Vineyard ($20), which I think is the winery’s most expensive Zin, displays cinnamon and dusty soil notes. If you appreciate a more rustic style, it is a great value.

In 1972, ex-engineer David Stare helped start a revival in the valley when he established Dry Creek Vineyard as the first winery built there since Prohibition. The 2013 “Old Vine” ($32) takes the term seriously, not as a marketing ploy. The average 95+ year-old vines yield a firm and concentrated wine with suggestions of sweetness and spice. The 2013 “Heritage Vines” ($20) is the winery’s successful attempt to combine old vine character (rustic, concentrated) with young vine qualities (fresh, elegant). “Heritage” refers to young vines grafted from 100-year-old budwood.

Ironically, I found a wine that blends grapes from all three regions (plus fruit from Napa and Contra Costa). The 2013 Saldo ($30) – the name refers to that multiple sourcing – by the Prisoner Wine Company leans to the big and bold jammy style but also displays toasty oak and strong black pepper with savory notes.

No conversation about Zinfandel would be complete without mention of Ridge Vineyards. An Italian immigrant doctor made the original plantings on the site known as Monte Bello Ridge in the Santa Cruz Mountains in 1885. From this home estate near San Jose, Paul Draper (who has been at Ridge over fifty years and is recognized as one of the world’s great winemakers) oversees the production of one of the most impressive portfolios anywhere.

While the Monte Bello estate is world famous for it Bordeaux-style wine, for me and many wine aficionados, it is the vineyard designated Zinfandels from Sonoma, Napa and Paso Robles that are Ridge’s main attraction. Most notably the Lytton Springs Vineyard in Dry Creek Valley and Geyserville Vineyard in Alexander Valley are widely considered two of the best vineyards of any kind in California. Grapes have been grown on both sites for at least 140 years.

 The Lytton Springs and Geyservile wines (both 2013 and $38) are beacons of what zinfandel can achieve when grown in the right place and crafted by the right hands. Lytton Springs generally shows great structure and power with a seamless texture, while Geyserville is more elegant and focused. Both are great, just different. It is worth noting both vineyards have been planted all these years as a “field blend” including petite sirah, carignane, and mataro. So, the resulting wines are only about three-fourths zinfandel.

It’s also worth noting both wines, technically are not labeled “Zinfandel.” They are labeled with the vineyard name. From a winemaking perspective, this reflects Draper’s respect for tradition and the site. From my perspective, it also is a metaphor for how all these immigrant grapes (in the field blend) support each other to assimilate in their new homes and achieve success.

Founded 30 years ago, Murphy-Goode is another winery that has continued the Alexander Valley tradition with zinfandel. The winery is notable for its whimsical gaming related product names as well as consistent quality. The three Zins recommended from my tasting begin with the 2012 “Liar’s Dice” ($21), a welcoming blend of Dry Creek and Alexander valley fruit offering jammy raspberry and black cherry with just a touch of spice. The 2012 “Snake Eyes” ($35), actually a single vineyard wine from Trusendi Vineyard in Alexander Valley is plush and appealingly ripe, with dark berries and zesty and spicy cocoa.  The 2012 Reserve Alexander Valley ($40) combines the best lots from all their vineyard sources to achieve a jammy and intense wine with vanilla accents and silky tannins.

Nowadays, Zinfandel produces distinctive wines in many regions of the state. I especially like Zins from Paso Robles and Lodi. Unfortunately, there were no Paso wines available for this report but I had a good Lodi Zin in the tasting. The Federalist “1776” (2013, $22) is the latest release for a label that honors our founding fathers (featuring a different one on the label each vintage) and zinfandel’s distinctly American character. This one features George Washington and offers fresh, sweet berries with rich oak balanced with firm tannins.

Zinfandel, the humble immigrant from Europe has overcome many obstacles over the last 160 years or so to establish its own tradition and identity and is now known to many as “America’s Heritage Wine,” truly an American success story.

NOTE: Featured image is courtesy of Historic Vineyard Society