SAUVIGNON BLANC PROVIDES REFRESHING DRINKING FOR WARMER WEATHER
With the blistering weather (even in September these days!), it’s natural for wine drinkers to think about cooling off with a refreshing white wine. While most U.S. consumers still turn first to Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc is an ideal alternative.
Sauvignon Blanc’s flavor profile comes in several styles, though it’s usually assertively aromatic, with refreshing acidity. Generally expect brisk green citrus (lime, gooseberry) but also other citrus, especially grapefruit and a distinctive (sometimes spicy) herbaceousness. Some also are evocative of fresh cut hay or oats. Wines made from riper fruit often display peach, melon or even tropical fruits. These qualities make it an exceptional accompaniment to food.
It has a noble heritage as a parent (with cabernet franc) of cabernet sauvignon. It is responsible for the Loire Valley wines of Sancerre and Pouilly Fume and, with semillon, the white Bordeaux of Graves and Sauternes. The grape also has found hospitable surroundings in New Zealand, South Africa, Australia, and Chile.
Here I focus on California, where the styles vary by producer more than terroir, though climate does have its influences. Most of the wines are fermented and aged in stainless steel to emphasize fresh, varietal characteristics, while some use varying amounts of mostly neutral oak to round out flavors and texture. Still others emulate the aggressiveness of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.
First, I found a number of good everyday values from the 2018 vintage at $20 and under. These tend to be lighter with the focus on varietal fruit. Think of them as everyday patio sippers. They are listed in order of preference but all are recommended:
Two Angels High Valley ($17) creamy, juicy, balanced
Dry Creek Vineyard Dry Creek Valley ($20) enticing, spicy, sumptuous
Pedroncelli East Side Vineyards ($15) lively, tonic, herbal
J. Lohr “Flume Crossing” ($14) tangy, crisp
Dry Creek Vineyard Sonoma County “Fumé” ($16) energetic, lemongrass
As consumer friendly as these wines are, I found more complexity and flavor interest as prices escalated beyond $20. Also, I was surprised when I reviewed my tasting notes that all but one of these is from Napa. They are listed in order of preference but all are recommended:
2018 Spotswoode ($42). Combining fruit from the Spotswoode’s organic estate vineyard and other top Napa and Sonoma vineyards, this balances vibrancy and textural richness, with structure and complexity. Should age well for a few years.
2017 Cuvaison Méthode Béton ($35). The “method” is aging 12 months in concrete eggs (bétons). The result is fascinatingly different: graceful, yet refreshing, full, and persistent.
2017 Sonoma County’s Chalk Hill Estate ($33). The geographic outlier in this group turns fruit from its high altitude vineyards into wine that deftly balances a fair amount of oak with intense fruit, drinking with juicy acidity and a lush texture.
2018 Ehlers Estate ($32). From Ehler’s certified organic vineyard in the warmer climate near St. Helena, this is a succulent and racy counterpoint, having seen no oak. Still full-bodied, it is nicely savory.
2018 Gamble Vineyard ($28). The Gamble Family has produced a rich wine from their estate vineyard near centrally located Yountville,showing an oaky roundness with licorice and spice.
2018 Ladera ($30). With fruit from the cooler Oak Knoll District of southern Napa Valley, this offers brisk but juicy fruit, a touch of mineral, and a textural accent of oak.
2018 Cuvaison ($25). Without seeing any oak, this nicely expresses its cool climate Carneros estate vineyard fruit. It is brisk and assertive, yet juicy and luscious, finishing lightly spicy.
2018 Duckhorn Napa Valley ($30). Blending cool and warm sites throughout the valley, this quite aromatic wine includes a touch of semillon. It is notable for a hint of licorice, while showing a nice oaky texture.
DIFFERENT CHARDONNAY STYLES OFFER ENJOYMENT FOR WARM WEATHER (AND ALL YEAR)
As temperatures warm, many of us begin to crave more white wines,rosés, and lighter red wines. Among the whites, Chardonnay continues its several decade run as the undisputed favorite of American consumers. I suspect its main attraction is that good wine is available in at many price levels.
Although its popularity has fluctuated at times, it remains the world’s most popular grape.Certainly, California data show chardonnay was the most popular variety grown in 2018, just edging out cabernet sauvignon.I suspect its main attraction is that good wine is available in many styles, at many price levels.
Here, I highlight two basic styles of California and Oregon Chardonnay that basically draw inspiration from Burgundy, the historical benchmark for Chardonnay. Since Burgundy is the historical benchmark for Chardonnay, I find it useful to look there for comparisons to two general styles.
What has been described as traditional practices of the Côte d’Or – use of mostly new oak barrels for fermentation and aging, malolactic fermentation (“malo” converts sharper malic acid to richer lactic acid) and aging on the lees– produce wines of lush texture with notes of cream, butter, toast, butterscotch or vanilla. The grape’s natural citrus fruit may be complimented with, pear, peach, melon, fig or tropical fruit.
With these characteristics, it’s not surprising Chardonnay has been such a success. For a while, though, some wineries took this style to extremes. Luckily, after a period in the 1980s-1990s producing unbalanced wines (and some backlash from consumers), in the 2000s, growers and winemakers rediscovered the importance of producing harmonious wines.
A focus on cooler climate vineyards (where early ripening chardonnay thrives) and more respect in the growing and handling of the fruit (earlier harvest and more judicious use of oak, lees, and malo) has led to an abundance of good wine at (mostly) reasonable prices. As a result, this may be the best time to drink Chardonnay in decades.
Most wines in my tastings followed a version of the Côte d’Or approach. The ones below (in order of my personal preference but all are recommended) deftly walked the line between opulence and freshness, pure fruit and richness,delivering complexity with oak influence more as seasoning.
Most impressive to me were three single vineyard wines of the 2017 Chappellet Grower Collection ($45): “El Novillero” Carneros – refreshing apricot and peach, honey toast, hazelnut; “Calesa” Petaluma Gap – rich, buttery apple and white fruits fresh herbs spice tangerine nutty; and “Sangiacomo” Carneros – pure, sharp apple, pear, buttery rich.
2017 Left Coast “Truffle Hill” Willamette Valley ($24) delightful orange, tangerine, cashew
2017 J. Lohr Arroyo Vista ($25) juicy, citrus, pineapple, lush, balanced
2017 McIntyre Santa Lucia Highlands ($28) focused citrus, firm texture
At the other end of the spectrum, some wineries emulate what can be described as the Chablis style. By limiting the use of oak, especially new oak (both in fermentation and aging) and restricting malo, the intent is to allow more of the pure fruit to shine through, yieldingwines that are fresh, lively and vigorous. This style tends to present a lightness of being, though still with textural interest, intense aromatics and firm backbone.
2017 Jordan Alexander Valley ($34) dramatic apple and citrus, light butterscotch
2017 MacRostie Sonoma Coast ($25) zesty stone fruits, lightly savory
2017 FEL Anderson Valley ($32) mixed citrus, juicy, vigorous
2017 Calera Central Coast ($25) intensely crisp citrus, nicely creamy
2017 Scheid Estate Grown Monterey ($26) pure citrus, appealing sweet/tart
2015 J. McClelland Napa Valley ($35) brisk apple, cream, light spice
Three wines in my tastings eschewed oak altogether. The juice for these “unoaked” wines was fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks. The 2018 Stoller Dundee Hills ($28) is a citrusy, peachy delight. The 2018 Chehalem “Inox” ($20) is focused and floral with peach and apple. The 2018 Kendall-Jackson “Avant” ($17) is pure, fresh and slightly sweet.
Note: Featured Image courtesy of Chappellet Vineyards
Italy is a cornucopia of vinous diversity, a boot overflowing with, by some estimates, over 2000 indigenous varieties. The northeastern regions of Veneto, Alto Adige and Friuli-Venezia Giulia arguably have led a re-awakening in Italian white wine production, while remaining a reliable source of distinctive, unique red wines.
Northeastern Italy, Part 1
Typically, these wines display natural freshness and expressiveness of their origins. They are notable for dramatic aromas, precise structure, and refreshing acidity. Here I highlight just a few worth seeking out from the Veneto. Most of these wines are unoaked or lightly oaked to retain natural freshness and expressiveness.
In the Veneto (just to the east of Lake Garda), Soave – named after a local village and made with the native garganega variety – has long been a popular choice for a light, refreshing white wine. After a period of mediocrity during the last few decades of the twentieth century), Soave has been reimagined by attentive quality minded wineries like Inama, who makes wines from estate vineyards on Monte Foscarino in the original “Classico” district.
The 2018 “Vin Soave” ($16) is delightfully light and tasty with touches of apple, nectarine, lemon, pear, and stone fruit nicely balanced with almond notes.
The 2017 “Vigneti di Foscarino” ($26), a special selection of old vines on the east side of the Monte Foscarino that is vinified (such as barrel fermentation) to recall traditional styles; yielding a wine with a lush texture and notes of apricot, pear and melon balanced with almond.
A similar story can be told with Valpolicella – composed of indigenous varieties (mostly corvina with varying amounts of rondinella, corvinone and molinara. A light, easy drinking red gained popularity and evolved into an indistinct sipper but now serious producers like Tenuta Sant’Antonio have resurrected the wine’s reputation. The 2016 “Nanfre” ($14) is a round, cherry flecked drink, sinewy but lush. For a contemporary interpretation of corvina, try the winery’s second label 2017 Scaia Corvina ($13), which nods to modern tastes with forward fruit.
At the tip of the Valpolicella pyramid is Amarone della Valpolicella. The 2015 Tenuta Sant’ Antonio “Selezione Antonio Castegnedi” ($45) is a fine representative of apassimento, the skillful process of drying the grapes to yield a deep, complex wine of bold dark fruits, hints of mocha, and tobacco.
In between, Valpolicella Ripasso achieves richer flavors by macerating Amarone pomace (grape skins and solids) with fresh Valpolicella. The result is a wine like the 2015 Tenuta Sant’ Antonio “Monti Garbi” ($20) with its intense black fruits, rich texture, and admirable complexity. Another perennial favorite is the 2014 Allegrini “Palazzo Della Torre” ($23). This one basically borrows from the ripasso and apassimento processes. This one blends fresh Valpolicella (in this case, corvina, rondinella and some sangiovese) vinified upon harvest and then later combined with the juice of dried grapes set aside to dry until January. The result is a wine of substantial structure with deep black cherry accented with spices, smoke and herbs.
Beyond these traditional wines, a creative producer like Inama is a good place to look for the region’s contemporary creativity. I was impressed with two wines from (surprise!) Bordeaux varieties: brought from France by locals.
Turns out the carménère grape has been cultivated in the Veneto for about 150 years unbeknownst to many but Inama discovered promising vineyards in the Colli Berici subregion near the village of Vicenza and now produces a fine example. The current vintage is the lithe, bright 2015 “Più” ($21), which includes a sizable dose of merlot. I also enjoyed the 2015 “Bradissimo” ($30), a blend of 70 percent cabernet sauvignon and 30 percent carménère, for its blackberry fruit and solid structure. It’s a fine alternative to a Super Tuscan.
Northeastern Italy, Part 2
Photo courtesy AltoAdigeWines.com
The far northeast of Italy features some of the peninsula’s most spectacular scenery and most complex history. Yet – with the exception of Venice and maybe Verona for Shakespeare fans and the Dolomites for skiers – it is often a second thought for visitors. Sadly, much the same can be said for most of its wines. Here is my humble effort to correct that.
Northeast of Verona, the Alto Adige (also known as Südtirol – South Tyrol – because of historical Austrian and Germanic influences)is a fairly small region situated south of the Alps (bordering Switzerland and Austria in view of the Dolomites). It lies just north of Lake Garda and is slightly closer to Milan than Venice. Also, note the wines tend to be varietally labeled, rather than geographically, as is the more common practice elsewhere in Italy.
Distinguished for its high altitude vineyards, often planted up the sides of glacial valleys as high as 3,000 feet, the region is noteworthy mostly for distinctive white wines (3/5 of total production) with bracing acidity and substantive character but also red wines of considerable interest. And don’t be surprised if you can detect that illusive quality of “minerality” wine aficionados seek.
As mentioned, historically, this corner of Italy has experienced strong Austrian and Germanic influences, which is why you will see the terms Cantina (Italian) and Kellerei (German) on the labels, which are the terms for “winery”.
This helps explain why many of the wines are made from German varieties:
Like müller-thurgau, an offspring of Riesling; try the 2016 Cantina Bolzano (Bozen) “Eisacktaler” ($20), the region’s largest cooperative, for a bright and lively, floral and nutty wine, with a touch of spice.
Or kerner, which also has riesling as a parent. The 2017 Kurtatsch ($17), from a 100-year-old winery cooperative, reveals crisp,floral, fruity, and spicy notes.
And sylvaner, which is originally from Austria but more common now in Germany. The 2017 Abbazia di Novacella ($20), from a winery that dates the founding of the Novacella Monastery in 1142, is herbaceous, full-bodied and invigorating.
Others are French varieties.
If you are used to American pinot grigio, recalibrate your expectations. The 2015 Pacherhof ($31), from a property owned by the family since 1142, reveals refreshing pear and savory apple but also melon, citrus, and stone fruit. Amazingly refreshing and multifaceted, it is unlike anything produced here
Pinot Bianco (pinot blanc in French/weissburgunder in German) like the 2015 St. Michael-Eppan “Schulthauser” ($21), from a more than 100 years old coop, is delightfully redolent of honey and citrus in a lively, fresh delivery.
And there are several native varieties:
While gewürztraminer is better known as an Alsatian stalwart, it takes its name from the village of Tramin located in Alto Adige. The 2016 Cantina Terlano Estate Bottled ($27), from a 125 year old coop, was one of my favorites of the tasting with its wonderful lychee, apricot and spice in a brisk but viscous frame.
Moscato giallo is a unique member of the moscato (muscat in French) family as it suggests the sweet, floral, spicy intensity you would expect but with the firmness of a wine vinified dry. Alois Lageder’s 2017 “Vogelmaier” ($25) – from a family with a history in the region since 1823 and today a leader in biodynamic farming–is delightfully aromatic with spicy apricot and lime with an intriguing savory note.
Lagrein, virtually unique to this region and thought to be a relative of Syrah, is the result of crossing Teroldego with another (unspecified) local grape. Lagrein is known for its dark fruit and earthy pepper notes with relatively high tannins and acidity. The 2015 Cantina Bolzano (Bozen) Riserva “Taber” is also robust with slightly bitter fresh red berries and a woodsy element.
Schiava (called vernatsch in German but known as trollinger in Germany) is a grape that generally is considered to make simple wines. As such, the 2017 Castelfeder Alte Reben ($17) is a surprise success. This one is fruity and delicate, lively and light, with soft berry tones – ideal for summer tipping.
Friuli-Venzia Giulia is Italy’s farthest northeast wine producing region, bordered by Austria, Slovenia, and the Adriatic. Many empires have claimed the area over the millennia, most notably the Republic of Venice for nearly 1100 years from the 7th through the 18th centuries. Still, the area’s culture arguably has more in common with Austria and Slovenia than the rest of Italy.
Similar to the Alto-Adige, there are impressive white wines from familiar grapes like chardonnay, sauvignon, gewürztraminer, sylvaner, and pinot grigio. The wines tend to be somewhat higher in alcohol but also higher in acidity, making for exquisite balance. There also is a cornucopia of mostly regional-focused, small production varieties well worth seeking out.
And the Collio subregion in the farthest east is recognized in the industry for some of the finest white wines anywhere. Yet it is still largely undiscovered by consumers. Located about an hour and a half east of Venice, the Marco Felluga winery is one of the foremost representatives of the region. Here, the watchword is balance – between tradition and innovation – as the winery was founded in the 1950’s on a property dating back to the 1300’s, while the Felluga family’s winemaking history dates back to the 1800’s.
The 2016 Pinot Grigio “Mongris” ($18) fills the mouth with peach, melon and stone fruit accented with basil and ginger. The 2015 Bianco “Molamatta” ($26) is a fascinating blend offriulano, pinot bianco, and ribolla gialla showing zippy apple, apricot, pineapple, and lemon with fine weight and structure.
Another historic property, dating back to the thirteenth century (and with part of the existing cellar dating back to the 1700s), Russiz Superiore was acquired by the Felluga family in 1967. Notable for estate vineyards surrounding the winery, the 2016 Cabernet Franc ($29) impresses with black fruits, herbs, smoky spice, and soft tannin. The 2018 Sauvignon ($29) – what we know as Sauvignon Blanc – is inspiring for its crisp lemon, peach and melon. Packed with flavor, it still drinks with finesse.
Note: Featured Image is Soave vineyard courtesy of Azienda Agricola Inama
For decades in California, pinot noir frustrated even the best winemakers. In recent years, though, California has begun to figure out the grape. Today, there are numerous appellations along a 500-mile stretch from Mendocino to Santa Barbara sourcing fine Pinot Noir wine.
And winemakers are focused more on making food-friendly wines more reflective of their origins. Consequently, the main buzzword for many producers is “minimal intervention”. In the vineyard, this generally meanschoosing the best sites usually characterized by proximity to the Pacific Ocean (or other water body) and the associated fog and cool breezes leading to long growing seasons enabling optimal ripeness, naturallyfresh acidity, and elegant wines. Wineries also increasingly are using only sustainably or organically farmed grapes.
In the cellar, this means, to varying degrees,fermentation with native yeast, few if any additions to adjust the juice, less new oak for fermentation and aging, and overall gentler handling.The best reveal pure (mostly red berry) fruit with integrated forest, earth and brown spices delivered with a silky texture.
The wines below (traveling from north to south) are the best I tasted in recent months. The real standouts were the wines from Chappellet, Inman and Goldeneye. Within each category, the wines are listed in order of preference but all are recommended.
Remote, rugged and sparsely populated, the Anderson Valley of Mendocino County is an unexpected source of fine Pinot Noir. The wines typically are concentrated, with noticeable tannin structure but deftly balance power and elegance. These consistently good wineries have delivered again.
2016 Goldeneye: Ten Degrees ($125) big, ripe, assertive, balanced; Confluence Vineyard ($86) oaky, earthy; The Narrows Vineyard ($86) juicy, full, tight; Anderson Valley ($58) (dark, lush, spicy; Gowan Creek Vineyard ($86) large, structured; Split Rail Vineyard ($86) juicy, full
2017 K-J Grand Reserve ($30) dark fruit, savory spice, lavish texture, a fine value
2017 Siduri “Edmeades” ($50) deep, silky and spicy and 2017 Anderson Valley ($40) deep and juicy
2017 FEL($38) opulent fruit, structured
The Russian River Valley in Sonoma County arguably is one of the top sources of Pinot Noir in the world. With the climate cooled by morning fog funneled through the valley from the Pacific Coast, the wines from this region are marked by fullness, complexity and balance.
Sonoma Coast, with its rolling hills and proximity to cooling Pacific Ocean breezes, is the new frontier for pinot noir. Similar to the Russian Valley, it is heavily influenced by fog, rain and wind from the ocean.
2016 Inman Sexton Road Ranch ($68) dark, concentrated, and structured.
2015 Sosie Spring Hill Vineyard ($43) intense, spicy, velvety
2017 Migration ($42) deep, broad
Straddling the southern end of Sonoma and Napa counties, Carneros has transformed from sheep and dairy ranches to prime vineyard land over the last fifty years. Cooled by fog and winds from the bordering San Pablo Bay, the resulting wines typically display admirable delicacy, balance and freshness. The one wine in my tasting, the 2017 Frank Family ($38), is lively and richly textured.
Monterey County, certain microclimates enjoy a balance between the cool Monterey Bay and the warm the Salinas Valley. Here, I include just two. The south facing slopes of the Santa Lucia Highlands inland from Carmel personify Monterey’s interplay between cool ocean breezes and inland heat. And the two wines below exemplify the deep berry fruit and enticing floral character that have rocketed this region to acclaim in the last few decades.The Arroyo Seco region to the south of the Santa Lucia Highlands also has emerged as a good source and is well represented here.
2016 J. Lohr “Highlands Bench” Santa Lucia Highlands ($35) juicy, firm, savory,
Finally, a few miles farther south in Santa Barbara County (an hour and a half north of Los Angeles) sports two regions that rival Sonoma as California’s best source of Pinot Noir – Santa Maria Valley and Santa Ynez Valley. The Santa Rita Hills, a sub-appellation within the Santa Ynez Valley, is distinctive as it runs in a west-to-east direction that efficiently funnels those cooling fog and winds from the Pacific Ocean. The 2016 Sea Smoke “Southing” ($60) is juicy, rich, and full, with lingering flavors.
NOTE: The Featured Image is courtesy Sonoma County Winegrowers Association.
California Cabernet, especially Napa Valley and Sonoma County appellations, has been a sales phenomenon since the 1970s. Even as California wine production continues to grow and lesser-known varieties are emerging, Cabernet Sauvignon remains the most popular varietal red wine.
And though fine quality can be found up and down the state, Sonoma and Napa dominate the quality wine production market. I have tasted over 60 Cabernets in the last year and recommend the following (listed in order of preference within each category) as exemplars of their styles.
Especially from the Napa Valley, Cabernet Sauvignon has become a phenomenon in recent decades with a general style that emphasizes richness and concentration. While there are variations on the theme, the style is recognizable in pronounced fruit, lavish oak, firm body, and supple texture. Ideally, all this results in a wine enticing to drink now but that can be aged and enjoyed for years.
Chappellet has been producing highly prized wines since 1967, and its flagship Pritchard Hill has become one of Napa’s iconic cabernets. At about one-third the price, though, the 2016 Signature ($70) is wonderfully expressive with layers of fresh red and black fruits, suggestions of earth and cocoa in an approachable style with a lush texture and powdery tannins. It has the structure composition to evolve and drink well for at least 20 years.
2015 Gamble Family ($60), from highly regarded growers with a family history in the valley over 100 years, has produced a wine lively yet depth of blackberry, toasty oak, cocoa, generous, rich, ripe, black cherry, supple, fleshy, well knit
Duckhorn Vineyards has, since 1978, produced what could be described as “quintessentially Napa Valley Cabernet”. Duckhorn built a reputation for large scaled deeply flavored Merlots and Cabernets. Over the years, their portfolio has grown to include regional, appellation and single vineyard bottlings. The Napa Valley (2015, $75) encompasses the complex, balanced, immediately appealing expression of the valley. It is firm, structured, age worthy supple, polished tannins
For another typical expression of Napa Cabernet, buy a 2015 Frank Family ($53). Blended from several vineyards, it offers precocious, ripe fruit, rich texture, some earth, and soft tannins that drink well now but will allow years of development. Cassis, blackberry, black cherry, cedar, toast, pencil, firm, lush, creamy, licorice, juicy, flashy, approachable,
Charles Krug, Napa’s oldest commercial winery, has been in the Mondavi family since 1943. 2015 Vintage Selection ($125 ) deep blackberry, powdery mouthfeel, chunky, needs time, one of the valley’s legacy wineries also have stepped up to improve quality.
Over in Sonoma County, several valleys produce really good Cabernet. Probably the most distinguished is the Alexander Valley.
One of the more distinguished producers is Jordan Vineyards, which has been a mainstay of the valley (and a top destination) since the mid-1970s. Jordan’s 2015 ($55) is refined, silky, savory throughout. There is less emphasis on opulent fruit, more on lively acidity and firm structure. This is still California, so there is a sense of fresh fruit but balanced with earthy and dried herb notes.
Murphy-Goode, with family winemaking history since 1985 and farming before that, produces a nice everyday Alexander Valley Cab (2015, $28) that delivers rather straightforward black fruits with suggestions of herbs and cocoa in a solid frame.
Closer to the Pacific, the Dry Creek Valley is a little known gem tucked away in northwestern Sonoma. And when Dry Creek Vineyard was founded in 1972, it was the first new winery in Dry Creek Valley since Prohibition. Both are known mostly for heady Zinfandels but also are surprising sources of good Cabernets. The 2015 Hillside & Benchland ($29) is fruit forward but nicely balanced, with fresh forest notes; pure juicy black fruit, firm structure, and slightly astringenttannins.
The Pedroncelli family has been in Dry Creek Valley since 1927 and its 2014 Wisdom Estate Vineyard ($36) showcases the 50+ year old vines in an herbal, medium, cedar, graphite, black fruits, nicely structured,
Finally, two wineries – three wines each – featuring an exploration of Sonoma County terroirs.
Founded 55 years ago by celebrated American dancer Rodney Strong (and now owned by the Klein family), this winery has more recently emphasized estate grown wines. The 2015 Alexander Valley ($28), from estate vineyards on the hillsides, this straightforward, yet confident wine nicely balances oaky vanilla and berry fruit, light herbs, finishing lush, structured, and velvety.
The 2015 Knights Valley ($35) from the Sonoma appellation farthest east of the ocean and somewhat protected from its cooling influences. Expect lavish black fruits and toasty oak with a a fairly full-body, while crisp acidity and herbal tinges enliven the refined finish.
The 2015 Reserve ($45) is a blend of the best Alexander Valley estate vineyards. It is medium-bodied, with fresh fruit and supple tannins, this wine combines the ripeness of California fruit with the nuances of Bordeaux. Neither the fruit nor the oak hit you over the head. Instead, they join together to caress your palate.
The Jackson family has been winegrowers since 1974 and has built the largest family-owned wine company in California. Under their flagship Kendall-Jackson brand, the Jackson Estate portfolio showcases the family’s estate vineyards, The 2014 Alexander Valley ($40) intense and full with bright acidity and rich tannins.
The 2014 Grand Reserve ($28) is a fine value delivering a lot of wine for the money. Excellent purity of dark fruits, good depth and intriguing woodsy notes mark a balanced wine. The 2016 Vintner’s Reserve ($24) utilizes mostly Sonoma County grapes to produce a silky, easy drinking, with firm black fruits and herbal touches
Colorado has worldwide reputation for fine festivals, especially those centered on wine and food. One of the newest and, in my view, most special is Slow Food Nations. Forbes just published Five Reasons to Visit Colorado this- Summer stating, “In July, Denver is hosting the Slow Food Nationsconference, one of the country’s best festivals for serious foodies.” The third annual conference and festival will be in Denver July 19-21.
There will be much food for thought and some pretty amazing culinary experiences.This year’s theme is Where Tradition Meets Innovation, with an amazing array of speakers and chefs introducing your mind to new ideas and your taste buds to amazing new flavors, while experiencing the future of food.
In preparation for the event, I suggest drinking some Slow Wine. My interest in the distinctive wines that achieve the Slow Wine designation was cultivated when the Slow Wine Guidetour came to Denver last March (as I have written previously). Here are recommendations of a few wineries from the guide that I have tasted recently.
Since 1994, Beckmen Vineyards (operated by Tom and Judy, with sons Steve and Jeff) has been crafting exceptional, mostly estate grown wines in Santa Barbara County. The family converted its Purisma Mountain Vineyard in Ballard Canyon near Los Olivos to biodynamic farming methods in 2006 (Demeter Certified). Planted to sauvignon blanc, grenache blanc, viognier, and chardonnay, as syrah, grenache, mourvedre, and counoise. I recently tasted the 2017 Cuvee Le Bec ($25), which is a delightful Rhone-style wine of surprising complexity. The 2018 Purisima Mountain Vineyard Grenache Rosé ($25) is flavorful and refreshing. Their varietally labeled Syrah and Grenache wines consistently deliver purity of fruit balanced with a captivating finesse.
Over forty years ago while spending time in Europe Josh Jensen developed an intense interest in Burgundy, even working at some of the most prestigious Burgundian wineries. So, he knew when he came back to California he wanted to make wines with a Burgundian sensibility, even while they would be distinctively Californian. He als o knew to look for cool climate vineyards with limestone soil and high-quality pinot noir clones. Jensen found the ideal, though unlikely location on Mt. Harlan, in the Gavilan Mountains of San Benito County east of Monterey Bay and planted it in 1975. One of the state’s pinot noir pioneers, Calera’s wines from this terroir show high-toned fruit with a lifted structure and fine tannins. Three I tasted recently – 2016 De Villiers Vineyard ($65), 2016 Reed Vineyard ($75), and 2016 Jensen Vineyard ($95) – are emblematic with bright red berries joining earthy, spicy accents in layers of complexity. Calera also produces excellent Viognier and Chardonnay.
Emeritus Vineyards is a Pinot Noir specialist established in 1999 when Brice Cutrer Jones (originator of the wildly popular Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay) purchased the former Hallberg Ranch in the Russian River Valley. They added Pinot Hill Vineyard in the Sonoma Coast appellation in 2008. Emeritus employs sustainable and organic farming practices in its vineyards – dry farming (no irrigation), no insecticides, cover crops, sheep for weed control and fertilization – allowing the vines to naturally come into balance without unnatural interference. The wines I tasted: 2016 Hallberg Ranch ($44, elegant and enticing), 2016 Hallberg Ranch “Wesley’s Reserve” ($75, rich and flavorful), 2015 Pinot Hill ($75, refined and bracing) testify to these practices.
Family-owned Long Meadow Ranch Wine Estates began in 1989 when Ted and Laddie Hall began work to restore a neglected farm using sustainable agriculture. It is now a full circle organic system committed (with the help of their son, Chris) to responsibly farmed vineyards and including olives, bees, organic gardens, grass-fed cattle and chickens, fruits, vegetables and horses. The operation is a welcome contrast to the monoculture that dominates in Napa Valley. The winery is solar powered and they operate a restaurant, Farmstead, in St. Helena. Wines are produced from three estate vineyards: Mayacamas Estate home ranch, Rutherford Estate in Napa, and Anderson Valley Estate in Mendocino. The wines reflect a commitment to balance and food friendly elegance. I recently enjoyed the 2017 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($22), 2015 Anderson Valley Chardonnay ($40), 2016 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir ($40), and 2015 Napa Valley Merlot ($35).
Long Meadow Ranch recently acquired the storied Stony Hill Vineyard (located in the Spring Mountain District) from the McCrea family – finally a winery sale that didn’t go to a large corporation or a private equity firm.
After years of working at numerous prestigious wineries – Château Pétrus in Pomerol, Australia, Simi (with the iconic Zelma Long), Matanzas Creek, Chalk Hill, Dominus and Rudd Estate – David Ramey (with his wife Carla) established Ramey Wine Cellars in 1996. Along the way, he has become recognized as one of California’s finest producers of Chardonnay. He sources fruit from prime vineyards, such as Dutton and Bacigalupi in Sonoma, and Hyde and Hudson in Carneros. He also has been an exemplar of classic Burgundian techniques, while applying modern methods where appropriate. Ramey is a strong proponent of wild yeast fermentation and careful oak barrel and malolactic fermentation. His wines balance vibrant fruit flavors with rich textures, succulent acidity and structured yet silky elegance. He also makes several Bordeaux-style wines, Pinot Noir, and Syrah. I was blown away by the 2015 Rochioli Vineyard Chardonnay ($65) 2016 Fort Ross-Seaview Chardonnay ($42)
Slow Food Editore, the publishing arm of Slow Food International recently launched their Slow Wine Guide 2019: “A Year in the Life of Slow Wine”with a US tour that included a tasting event at the Source Hotel in Denver’s RiNo District.
What is “Slow Wine”, you might ask? Structurally, it is a branch of the Slow Food International organization. More importantly, “it follows the same basic core principles of Slow Food: encouraging people to be aware about the wines they drink, where they come from, how they taste and how our choices affect the rest of the world”, according to one of the guide’s editors, Giancarlo Gariglio.
Originally intended to shine a spotlight on Italian wines, this tenth edition includes entries for California and Oregon. It covers 541 wineries – 370 Italian (and Slovenian), 121 Californian and 50 Oregon – and 24,000 wines tasted.
With what the editors-in-chief, Mr. Gariglio and Fabio Giavedoni, call “points-free wine writing”, the guide offers a distinctive perspective on the evaluation of wineries and their produce. They replace the score-based formula that has dominated much wine writing with an innovative set of criteria based on Slow Food values. These fundamental Slow Food principles of course consider the quality of the wines tasted but also take into consideration what Gariglio described as “wholesomeness, and expressiveness”.
Of course, aromas and flavors are important, he added. But quality also includes “the production process; heightened attention to environmental sustainability; the work of the grape grower; the wines’ expressiveness with respect to the appellation; varietal expression of indigenous grapes used in vinification; and winemaking practices that are not overly invasive and that don’t mask or homogenize the wines’ flavors.”
Wineries whose values (high quality wines, originality, respect for the land and environment) align with the Slow Food Movement are awarded the Snail Prize (the international symbol of Slow Food). Only wineries that are herbicide free can receive the Snail. Wineries whose wines represent benchmarks in quality throughout their range receive the Bottle Prize. Wineries whose wines represent excellent value are awarded the Coin Prize.
The Slow Wine Prize is given to wines that represent an expression of place, originality and history. The top wines are recognized with the Great Wine prize and excellent values (under $30) are recognized with the Everyday Wine Prize. Gariglio added, “Our editors also look for wines with good price-quality ratio and wines that aren’t part of elitist trends. We want the wines we select to be available to as many wine lovers as possible.”
The book is organized first by Italian region, then California and Oregon. Each entry describes the people, vineyards and wines that distinguish the particular winery, along with notable viticultural practices. Selections are based on the wines’ relationship to the places where they are made and the people who produce them. In Gariglio’s words, they “wanted to tell the wineries’ stories” and actually visited every winery included in the guide.
This kind of hands on dedication is what separates the Slow Wine Guide from other guides. If you can’t find it at your local bookstore or wine shop, it is available on Amazon.
Over the last 15 years, malbec, Argentina’s “signature grape” has established a position among the U.S.’s most popular wines. And it has helped Argentina rise to the position as the planet’s fifth largest wine producer.
This variety of European origin that has adapted so well to Argentina’s terroir delivers high quality and flavor interest at reasonable prices. Most of the wines can be had at $20 or less.
It helps that the wines are accessible and eminently drinkable. Typically, you get up-front, round fruit and lush textures for little money. Argentina’s malbec producers have settled into a comfort zone of affordable, easy-drinking reds that increasingly are crowd pleasers. These wines hit the quality/value sweet spot.
And Mendoza is its signature wine region. This high altitude landscape at the foot of the Andes Mountains births many malbecs that are fine choices for everyday drinking, some appropriate for a fine meal, and a few that would reward time to evolve.
Alamos, a winery with a 100-year history in Mendoza, specializes in fine values and is a brand to which many consumers turn. Its 2017 Malbec ($14) is one of Argentina’s most widely available and best everyday values. Full of raspberry fruit, it is nicely toasty and velvety. For a few dollars more the 2016 Seleccion Malbec ($25), a special selection, shows more concentration and deeper fruit.
Making wine for almost 130 years, Pascual Toso, based in the Maipú district of Mendoza, also is a notable value winery. The 2016 Reserva Malbec ($14) is pleasantly fresh with forward blackberry fruit and a touch of oak.
Domaine Bousquet, a leading pioneer in the high-altitude Tupungato sub-region of Mendoza’s Uco Valley, stands out for its commitment to organic fruit – at every price point.Wines are made with minimal reliance on oak, enabling the fruit shine through. The 2017 Malbec and 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon ($13) are notable for their exuberant freshness and vibrant aromatics, making for notably food-friendly wines.
Argentina also can excel with higher priced wines. Finca Decero’s 2015 The Owl & The Dust Devil ($33) is the second vintage of this distinct red blend from one of Argentina’s top producers. The name is inspired by the winery’s local Lechuza Owls who stand watch over the estate vineyards and the periodic “dust devils” (small, strong whirlwinds). A blend of cabernet sauvignon, malbec, petit verdot and tannat, it is rich yet well balanced, nicely focused, yet sleek. Herbal and peppery accents compliment the present berry aromas and flavors.
Finally, the 2015 Enzo Bianchi ($55), a blend of cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot, and malbec, offers a complex, balanced expression with tobacco, spices, and floral notes, rich berry fruit. It’s fairly full-bodied with a round plush texture and a solid structure signaling further development for 10-15 years.
Chile long has had a reputation as a reliable, good value producer, mostly for tasty, affordable Cabernet Sauvignons and Sauvignon Blancs, and more recently also for Carmenere, Chardonnay, Bordeaux-style blends and Pinot Noir. While this remains as true as ever, Chile is making a concerted effort to reposition itself as a premium wine producing country. With diverse geography and climate conditions, there is ample opportunity to achieve both goals.
Consider Cabernet Sauvignon, Chile’s most widely planted grape and Concha y Toro, Chile’s largest wine company. Its largest production and best-known wine, Casillero del Diablo (2016, $11), is a perennial good value.
Possibly Chile’s best wine.
At the other end of the spectrum, Concha y Toro’s Don Melchor “Puente Alto Vineyard” (2015, $125) has reached iconic status as one of Chile’s greatest red wines, and one of the best Cabernet’s anywhere. (I reviewed this wine last January.)
Concha y Toro also excels at mid-priced wines. Their 2016 Marques de Casa Concha ($25) is sourced from two historic vineyards, Puente Alto and Pirque, both located in the Maipo region. It is nicely structured with rich fruit.
Another one of Chile’s largest wine companies, Viña San Pedro, founded in 1865, was a pioneer of Chilean wine. Today, it is also a leader in sustainable winegrowing and social responsibility. They even recently introduced a biogas plant that turns viticultural waste into energy. Their nicely structured 2014 “1865 Single Vineyard” ($17) provides bright red fruits with subtle mocha and smooth tannins.
I also enjoyed the 2016 Odfjell “Armador” ($15). Over 25 years ago Dan Odfjell, a Norwegian shipping owner established vineyards in Chile’s Maipo Valley. Today, all Odfjell vineyards throughout Chile are certified organic and biodynamic. This one is lively, yet soft and round.
Carmenere grapes
As good as Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon can be, there are a lot of Cabs in this world. What Chile most distinctively excels at is Carménère. Similar to malbec in Argentina, carménère came to Chile from France in the latter 1800s. An offspring of cabernet franc, it now is almost exclusively grown in Chile and has become the nation’s niche grape.
With its distinctive flavor profile, food friendliness and generally reasonable prices Carménère wines from Chile deserves more consumer attention. It certainly has mine. At its best, Carménère supplies intense, juicy fruit, some spice (coffee, cocoa), smooth texture, and solid but silky tannins.
I wasn’t surprised to find several from Concha y Toro (all 2016 vintage). The Casillero del Diablo ($11) is a good everyday red. The Serie Riberas Gran Reserva ($17) was excellent, full flavored, and refined. The Marques de Casa Concha ($25) was fresh, spicy, toasty, and sleek. The Terrunyo Entre Cordilleras Peumo Vineyard Block 27 ($40) offered lively, bright fruit with herbal and chocolate notes.
And Viña San Pedro’s 2015 “1865 Single Vineyard” ($17) showed dense fruit, a solid structure, yet a refined palate.
Finally, Viña Ventisquero, a twenty-year-old winery focused on sustainable production, now produces a variety of wines from Ventisquero’s “Grey” series of wines present an expression of a single block of vines. The 2014 Glacier Trinidad Vineyard single block ($20) shows intense fruit, some tobacco, and fresh tannins.
As I mention at the top, Chilean wine is more than Cabernet Sauvignon and Carménère. Look for more recommendations here in the coming months.
Some of my favorite wines anywhere have their origin in the south of France, especially the Rhône Valley. Vines have flourished in the valley, which runs roughly from Vienne in the north to Avignon in the south, since ancient times. Divided geographically and viticulturally into two regions – north and south. Most Rhône wines in both are red, though there are a few notable whites.
The north is syrah country. With world renowned wines from Hermitage and Côte Rôtie, it’s no wonder syrah is the most famous grape of the Rhône. But the south is mostly about grenache and this is a grape you need to get to know. The big difference in the south is that the wines are much more focused on blends.
Neighboring Provence, the south has attracted popes, artists and literary figures. Seven popes resided in Avignon during the 1300s. The wines benefit from proximity to the Mediterranean and typically reflect the freshness emblematic of grenache.
While the southern Rhône has several appellations of interest, the most famous is Châteauneuf du Pape (“New Castle of the Pope”). Although thirteen grapes are specifically permitted, these are always grenache-dominated blends (with syrah and mourvèdre the most common additions). A fine example is the impressive 2016 Château de Nalys ($105), one of the appellation’s oldest properties, with lively aromatics, intense dark fruits, and complex leather, licorice, and spice notes.
Arguably the best after Châteauneuf is Gigondas about 10 miles northeast. It’s also less expensive. Its vineyards often produce heady, spicy, maybe somewhat rustic wines of strong but well-balanced character. These wines are even more dominated by grenache than is Châteauneuf.
One such wine is the 2015 Domaine Saint-Damien ($35). This small, family-owned estate has produced a full-bodied wine of delightful character. Another nice option is the 2015 Famille Perrin “La Gille” ($39). Aromatic and lush but with determination and force, this comes from the Perrin family of the renowned Château Beaucastel.
There are also wonderful everyday values to be found in this region. The most notable are labeled Côtes du Rhône (orCôtes-du-Rhône-Villages), the most common appellation. Côte du Rhône is often considered a catchall designation for wines from vineyards within the Rhône Valley but not included in the more delimited appellations. The appellation’s vineyards extend from Vienne to Avignon. Solid and flavorful, they represent some of the best red wine values in the world.
Again, the vast majority of the wines are red. While 21 grape varieties are officially included in the appellation, in the red wines, grenache is predominate, usually buttressed with significant additions of syrah and mourvèdre. The best are noted for generous fruit, solid and sometimes rustic body, and spicy qualities.
E. Guigal produces one of the consistently best Côtes du Rhône. The 2015 ($19) with 50% syrah, 45% grenache and 5% mourvedre is a much more intense wine than what one would expect with tons of ripe dark fruit a lush texture, and savory and earthy notes. Another reliable producer is Les Dauphins whose 2016 Reserve ($13), with 70% grenache, 25% syrah and 5% mourvedre, offers up front fruit, with herbal and forest notes and an easygoing texture.
Southern Rhône white wines also are blends, generally are combinations of roussanne, marsanne, grenache blanc and small amounts of other grapes, also are worth attention. From Châteauneuf du Pape, the 2017 Château de Nalys ($105) isa melange of roussanne, grenache blanc, clairette, bourboulenc and picpoul, is impressive in its own right. Succulent and exotic with apple and peach fruit, notes of brioche, cream and a light, floral spice.
Of course, Côtes du Rhône Blanc is a more affordable everyday alternative. Again, E. Guigal (2016, $19) and Les Dauphins Blanc (2016, $13) – marrying enticing aromas and freshness – are good places to start.
Just north of the village of Arles (of course, famous for its association with the artist Vincent Van Gogh) across the Rhone River, the Costières de Nîmes appellation is the southernmost of the Rhone Valley winegrowing areas. It is also located between well-known villages of Marseille and Avignon. While predominantly red wines are produced, the whites, like the 2015 Chateau Mas Neuf “Paradox Blanc” ($17), are fruity and substantial. This one is also smooth with 65 percent grenache blanc and 35 percent roussane.
Finally, the Luberon, nestled east of Avignon, is one of the most southerly areas of the Rhone Valley. Unusual for the Rhône, rosé is predominant here. Still, light fresh, stylish whites also are available. The region also produces some delightfully elegant white wines, to which the Vermentino grape contributes its special citrus flavours. Typical of the area, the 2014 Pierre Henri Morel Luberon Blanc ($17) is mostly three-fifths grenache blanc, in this case complimented with rolle, viognier, and clairette grapes. It is typically light and fresh, with delightful peach and honey.
