Category: Wine

WINEMAKER VISITS OFFER BENEFITS OF FIRST HAND ACCESS

For a wine devotee, Colorado is a blessed place. We have particularly savvy wine consumers and good distribution of a wide variety of wines. Thus, we are graced with countless visits from wineries eager to tap into our sophisticated market.

One of the more enjoyable aspects of being a wine writer is the opportunity to meet and taste with winery personnel and winemakers. Though, I usually don’t write about these visits because of the loss of objectivity given the circumstances.

Occasionally, this is balanced by the knowledge and perspective gained meeting these creative, dedicated individuals. At three recent visits, I tasted wines that I would have recommended under any circumstances.

One such visit was with Theresa Heredia, winemaker at Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery. Founded in 1982, the winery has grown in acclaim for its artisan Russian River Valley Chardonnay’s and Pinot Noirs.

Now Theresa, who joined the winery in 2012 from Joseph Phelps’ Freestone Vineyards, carries on the tradition. She told me she prefers wines with fresh fruit, natural acidity, structure, and earthiness that reflect site specificity.

She feels her emphasis on picking at lower sugar levels, whole cluster fermentation, extended maceration, and judicious use of oak, including fermentation in large puncheons, yield wines that emphasize primary fruit characteristics but develop more interesting and complex, savory qualities.

And it showed in the wines I tasted: impressive single vineyard Pinots from Bacigalupi and Hallberg vineyards and a Chardonnay from Rochioli, as well as eminently drinkable Russian River Valley designated wines.

My other visits of note were from Italians. Talking with Alfredo Falvo it became clear Masseria LiVeli in Puglia is a labor of love for the Falvo family. Alfredo’s father, Alberto built Avignonesi Winery in Montepulciano, Tuscany into a worldwide force while the family owned it from 1974 to 2009. Now, the family is solely focused on LiVeli.

Alfredo shared the interesting history of this property as a “masseria.” The Salento area of Puglia is fascinating for the concentration of these ancient land estates having their roots in the period of the Norman conquest of the South.

And I find it really cool (that’s a technical wine term) that Li Veli focuses its production on traditional varieties. I enjoyed white wines from fiano and verdeca and red wines from negroamoro (Salice Salentino) and primitivo.

Finally, I visited with Giorgia Casadio of Villa Trasqua, named for the high plateau in the Castellina sub-region of Chianti Classico, just north of Siena. Giorgia explained that Villa Trasqua is new to the U.S. and based on my experience these sangiovese-based, mostly organic wines are well worth you seeking out.

Of course, Villa Trasqua produces estate Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Riserva, including a remarkable single vineyard Riserva, “Nerento.” As Giorgia pointed out, I found Villa Trasqua’s wines to balance deftly the traditional savory, high acid Tuscan style with more modern upfront fruit.

But their winemaker, Franco Bernabei, one of the most respected in Italy, also fashions fine “Super Tuscan wines. In addition to the Chiantis, I enjoyed the entry level Traluna but was really impressed with the 2008 Trasgaia, made of 50% sangiovese, 40% cabernet sauvignon and 10% cabernet franc.

I came away from each of these winery visits with a better understanding of the winemaking craft, as well as a better appreciation for the challenges and satisfactions of making world-class wine.

NEW CHARDONNAY NEW RELEASES SHOW BETTER BALANCE

Chardonnay has had something like a 35-year run as America’s favorite white wine. I suspect its main attraction is that good wine is available in many styles and at many price levels.

With French Burgundy (namely the wines of the Cote d’Or) as the benchmark, most quality minded California producers have employed traditional Burgundian practices of barrel fermentation, malolactic fermentation (“malo” converts sharper malic acid to richer lactic acid) and barrel aging.

In the 80’s and 90’s, exaggerated use of those techniques, especially excessive use of new oak, became fashionable among many of those wineries. The resulting wines did gain popularity but eventually there was a backlash as consumers sought better balanced wines.

Most producers now use oak judiciously, to provide seasoning not dominate the wine’s character. Many still employ full malo to for texture and richness but many use only partial malo. Increasing numbers emulate France’s other Burgundy region, Chablis by limiting new oak or even eschewing oak or malo altogether. The intent is to allow more of the pure, fresh fruit to shine through. At the risk of oversimplification, I find it useful to think of Chardonnay in the context of these two primary styles.

Wines in the Cote d’Or Style are rich, lush and creamy, with toast or vanilla. The grape’s natural citrus fruit gives way to tropical, pear, or peach and sometimes melon or fig. The wines below use significant amounts of oak but they do so to great effect, deftly walking the line between richness and freshness.

If there is one winery and one wine most responsible for Chardonnay’s popularity in this country, it is Kendall-Jackson and the Vintner’s Reserve, which was introduced in 1982. The 2014 ($17) continues the tradition, while KJ has expanded its portfolio to include wines at a variety of price points and from a variety of regions. The 2013 Grand Reserve ($22) shows more richness; the 2014 Jackson Estate Santa Maria Valley ($28) and 2013 Jackson Estate Camelot Highlands ($30) display nicely why Santa Barbara is an increasingly important source of Chardonnay.

The state’s best known region, the Napa Valley, shines with grapes sourced from cooler vineyards in the foothills and in the southern part of the county near the town of Napa and in Carneros. The rich 2014 Chappellet Napa ($35), bright 2013 Artesa Estate Reserve ($35), luscious 2013 Duckhorn Napa Valley ($35), and complex 2013 Franciscan “Cuvee Sauvage” ($40) all merit attention.

Even more than Napa, Sonoma County, especially the cool climate regions of the Russian River Valley and the Sonoma Coast, has emerged as California’s premier Chardonnay producer. And Patz & Hall, a Chardonnay specialist, is one of the county’s most highly regarded producers. Particularly successful with its single vineyard bottlings, the full-bodied 2014 Dutton Ranch ($44) and especially the complex 2013 Zio Tony RRV ($65) impressed, while the pure 2014 Sonoma Coast ($40) is distinctive.

MacRostie also produced a fine 2014 Dutton Ranch ($46), while Matanzas Creek scored with 2013 Sonoma County ($26).

I was particularly impressed with the structured 2014 Sonoma-Loeb Sangiacomo Vineyard ($27) and 2014 Sonoma-Loeb Envoy ($38), a special selection of their best lots mostly from the Sangiacomo Vineyard. Great values.

Patz & Hall also submitted two fine Carneros-Napa Valley wines: the rich, yet fresh 2013 Hyde Vineyard ($60) and the luscious, complex 2014 Hudson Vineyard ($55), arguably the best wine of the tasting.

Lastly, the lively, fruitful 2013 Talbott Sleepy Hollow Vineyard ($42) from the Santa Lucia Highlands is worth seeking out.

Now, what I call the “Chablis Style” is gaining popularity among increasing numbers of California producers. They emulate France’s other Burgundy region, Chablis by limiting new oak (in favor of used oak and stainless steel tanks) and malo, with some actually eschewing oak or malo altogether. The Chablis style emphasizes zesty, fresh, citrus fruits and crisp maybe green apple with a vigorous, lively texture. The intent is to allow more of the pure, fresh fruit to shine through.

The wines below use much less oak but still manage deftly walking the line between richness and. They are listed in my order of preference but all are recommended.

It’s definitely pricey but arguably the best wine of my tasting was the 2013 Sea Smoke Estate Vineyard ($60) from the prestigious Pinot Noir producer in Santa Barbara’s Santa Rita Hills. More than half of the barrels used were new but some of the wine was fermented in stainless steel to capture pure fruit flavors. I found it to have amazing depth with toasty richness and layers of fruit and texture.

Nearly as good at half the price, the 2014 Freemark Abbey Napa Valley ($30) is remarkable for its abundant stone and tropical fruits and lively structure. With 55% fermented in stainless and no malolactic fermentation, the quality fruit really shines through, even though 32% of the barrels used for aging were new.

Other very good wines at reasonable prices that split fermentation roughly equally between oak barrels and stainless steel tanks:

• 2014 Davis Bynum River West Vineyard ($25). Refreshing citrus, mineral notes, lush

• 2014 Rodney Strong Sonoma Coast ($25). Brisk citrus, caramel apple, sleek

• 2013 Miner Napa Valley ($30). Taut core of lime, tonic-like hints of mineral

• 2013 Clos du Val Napa ($28). Pear, quince, creamy elegance

• 2014 Jordan Russian River Valley ($32). Delicate, yet juicy pear and citrus 

• 2013 Cherry Tart ($25). Bright citrus, sumptuous texture

Lucky for consumers, you can still find good quality at even lower prices. See are some good choices:

• 2013 Educated Guess ($17). Creamy lemon merengue, 60% stainless fermented

• 2013 Talbott “Kali Hart” Monterey ($20). Vibrant, pure apple and melon, 85% stainless fermented

• 2014 Complicated Sonoma Coast ($18). crisp, succulent citrus and tropical fruit

• 2014 Rodney Strong Chalk Hill ($22). energetic citrus but creamy, lush texture

• 2014 Kendall-Jackson “Avant” ($17). Zesty apple and lemon; 60% stainless fermented
• 2014 La Crema Monterey ($20) pineapple and spice, nicely fruity
• 2014 Chloe Sonoma County ($17) nice pear and tropical fruit, soft and round

Finally, since no construct applies 100% of the time, the following wines from Sonoma’s MacRostie Vineyards to my palate fall somewhere between the Cote d’Or Style and the Chablis Style. These wines are all barrel fermented and aged but with little new oak. The 2014 Russian River Valley ($32) uses the most at 21%, the 2014 Sangaicomo ($44) the least at 16%. My favorite of the group, the 2013 Wildcat Mountain ($40) from MacRostie’s estate vineyard on the Sonoma Coast, is in the middle with 18% new oak. It’s plenty rich, full-bodied and plush, while exhibiting a purity of orange, apple and peach fruit, finishing with a touch of spice.

Over the last fifteen years, Malbec, Argentina’s “signature grape” has established a position among the world’s most popular wines. And it has helped Argentina to rise to the a position as the planet’s fifth largest wine producer.

Of course, it helps that the wines are user friendly and eminently drinkable – and affordable. Many of the wines can be had at $20 or less. On the one hand, it seems Argentina’s Malbec producers have settled into a comfort zone of affordable, easy drinking reds that increasingly are crowd pleasers. These wines hit the value sweet spot.

Below are several new Malbecs that would be fine choices for everyday drinking. You will get up front, round fruit and lush textures for your money.

Argento produces a range of varietal wines intended to offer a pure expression of the grapes. The 2014 ($14) is characterized by bright fruit and good energy; the 2013 Reserva ($18) excels with purity, vibrancy and elegance.

Bodegas Caro is a collaboration between Nicolas Catena (arguably the most famous Argentinian producer) and the owners of Chateau Lafite. The 2013 “Aruma” ($18), an impressive entry level bottling, has meaty and herbal aromas followed by pure fruit and soft tannins.

Rutini Wines has been recognized as a leader in quality and character ever since its founding in 1885. The 2014 “Trumpeter” ($11), part of the winery’s value line delivers on that promise opening with deep plum and a slight herbal note with delightful freshness. The 2013 “Encuentro” ($20) is even better. Flashy with a sense of sweet fruit, it is elegant with a sense of freshness.

Tomero is a 30-year-old winery well known for value. The 2014 ($17) continues the tradition with juicy red fruits and a touch of pepper.

Trapiche is one of Argentina’s largest and oldest (129 years) producers and the “Oak Cask” series is its value line.  The 2014 ($10) is delightfully clean and fruit-driven.

I also found nice wines from two négociants, buyers of wine from a variety of sources. Criterion Cellars produces six wines on four continents. Their 2013 ($14) shows nice fruit and solid structure. Layer Cake makes wines on four continents and in five countries. Their 2013 ($16) impresses with smoky dark fruit intensity.

For a little more money you can find more intense fruit, structure and character.

Like the 2014 Gran Malbec ($30) from Flechas de los Andes. A partnership between a Rothschild family member and the owner of Bordeaux’s Chateau Dassault, is a fine rendering of the variety that has the added advantage of being certified kosher.

Septima is a relatively new winery owned by Spain’s Cordoniu (large Cava producer). The 2014 “Obra” ($25) is delightful with myriad fruit and savory aromas and flavors buttressed with solid tannins.

And for a lot more money you can experience the 2010 Rutini “Apartado” Gran Malbec ($100). That’s right, a $100 Argentinean Malbec. A selection of Rutini’s best barrels, it achieves impressive intensity of fruit with balancing savory notes and a nervy spine.

All in all, an impressive showing. This variety of European origin that has adapted so well to Argentina’s terroir delivers high quality and flavor interest at reasonable (with one exception) prices. Although Argentina’s economy is struggling and the wine industry is not unaffected, we are lucky the country continues to churn out fine Malbecs.

Cabernet Sauvignon has been the most popular red wine among U.S. consumers for decades and California Cabs are the biggest sellers. A style that has emphasized richness and concentration, pronounced ripe fruit and lavish oak, has been dialed back somewhat recently in favor of more balance. The most successful wines still offer solid fruit, supple texture, and refined tannins resulting in wines enticing to drink now but able to improve with age.

Top Values – expect fine quality at an attractive price:

2013 Rodney Strong Alexander Valley ($28). This is a perennial value with admirable complexity and refined tannins, enabling it to entice the drinker into early consumption but also tempt to wait a few years to see how it develops.

2012 Murphy Goode Alexander Valley ($26). This 100% Cab wine shows lush, soft fruit and texture wit a balancing touch of oak.

2012 Dry Creek Vineyard Dry Creek Valley ($25). From Hillside and Benchland vineyards, with dollops of petit verdot, malbec, merlot and cabernet franc, it’s inviting right now but will improve for several years.

2012 Pedroncelli “Block 007” ($25). Estate grown 100% Dry Creek Valley Cab delivers pleasant, tart red fruits offset with light herb and the oak notes.

2013 Educated Guess Napa Valley ($20). Delightfully flavorful and approachable, has lots of character and appeal for the money.

2012 Old Soul Lodi ($14). Surprisingly bold, spicy and assertive with just enough character for the grill.

Sweet Spot of Quality/Value – more money is rewarded with high quality:

2012 Freemark Abbey Napa Valley ($50). This is a fabulous tribute to the craft of blending. It’s only 75 percent cabernet with 17 percent merlot and drips of cabernet franc, petite verdot and malbec from five vineyards. Quintessentially Napa.

2012 Murphy-Goode “Terra a Lago” ($40). From a vineyard in the foothills of the Mayacamas Range, this 100 % Cab offers good complexity and structure with admirable ripeness.

2012 Clos du Val Napa Valley ($38). Known for exhibiting a French touch with Napa fruit, this meets expectations balancing solid structure with a bright core of fruit.

2013 Jackson Estate Alexander Valley ($36). A really fine example of Sonoma Cab (with small percentages of merlot, malbec, cabernet franc and petit verdot), its higher elevation fruit yields an intense yet balanced wine with enticing complexity.

2013 J. Lohr “Hilltop” ($35). A perennial favorite from Paso Robles, its lush red fruit melds nicely with savory notes.

Splurges – for those special times when a special bottle is desired:

2012 Miner Stagecoach Vineyard ($75). From a highly regarded vineyard in the eastern hills of Atlas Peak in southern Napa Valley, this high elevation fruit impresses with earthy character, ripeness and firm structure.

2012 Duckhorn Napa Valley ($72). This company that made its name with Merlot also produces top quality Cabernet Sauvignon (and Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Blends). This one is typically highly structured and expected to be long lived.

2012 Cakebread Napa Valley ($65). Exemplary Napa Cab with loads of fruit buttressed with solid structure; it will reward years of patience.

2013 Chappellet “Signature” ($60). Classic mountain-grown Cab, including fruit from Chappellet’s renowned Pritchard Hill, delivers on its reputation for power amid grace.

2012 Jackson Estate Hawkeye ($55). Another fine Kendall-Jackson high elevation Alexander Valley wine that is deeply fruited, highly structured and lusciously textured.

2012 Jordan Alexander Valley ($55). Bordeaux is the model for this perennial restaurant favorite. The new vintage reveals more intensity than usual but is still expectedly seductive.

NOTE: Featured image courtesy of Miner Family Vineyards

With the approach of Earth Day, many people and businesses turn their attention to issues concerning the environment, sustainability and the connections between generations. It is no different in the wine world. Actually, for many wineries every day is Earth Day. More and more wineries are committing to sustainable practices as their fundamental business model.

One of the leaders in this movement is the Benziger Family Winery. At this Sonoma Mountain winery established in 1980, sustainability is a family affair with around 24 members involved. Convinced that natural techniques yield more flavorful, aromatic grapes with more site-specific character, while improving the health of the estate, they converted the property into a biodynamic farm. Today, the family owns four certified biodynamic vineyard estates and every wine carries a green certification – sustainable, organic or biodynamic – from a third party. Try the 2012 Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon ($20), Merlot ($20), 2013 Chardonnay ($16), and 2013 North Coast Sauvignon Blanc ($15) and see what I mean.

In Mendocino County, Parducci Wine Cellars has a long commitment to business social responsibility, reclaiming 100% of the water used in the cellars, using 100% green power and earth-friendly packaging, and becoming the nation’s first carbon neutral winery. They also are a reliable producer of value priced wine. But I suggest you check out the “True Grit Reserve” portfolio – 2014 Chardonnay, and 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Blend and Petite Sirah (each $30) – representing special selections of the best quality grapes.

Even in the famous Napa Valley most producers recognize the value of sustainable practices. Under the direction of famed winemaker Miljenko “Mike” Grgich (and now his daughter Violet) Grgich Hills Estate was one of the earliest adopters. Today, most of its vineyards are certified organic and biodynamic and the winery converted its electricity to solar power. See what skilled artisans can do with great grapes with these current releases: 2013 “Fume Blanc” ($30) and Chardonnay ($43) and 2012 Zinfandel ($35), Merlot ($43) and Cabernet Sauvignon ($65).

Oregon’s wine industry also has been in the forefront of sustainable practices and Stoller Vineyards has been one of its leaders. The Stoller family has farmed the property since in 1943. Now, its vineyards have attained organic and Biodynamic certification and the winery is certified organic for operations and processing. Add Salmon Safe and LIVE certified. The winery also is solar-powered and the first in the world to receive LEED Gold certification. From the 2013 vintage enjoy the Dundee Hills Pinot Noir ($35) and Chardonnay ($30), and especially the Reserve Chardonnay ($35) and Pinot Noir ($45).

Packaging is another way producers enhance their environmental and economic bottom line. Newly released value brand Vin Vault offers its portfolio in a convenient box package that protects freshness (up to four weeks!) and offers energy savings in production, transportation and storage. Easy to open and reseal, portable, lightweight, and resistant to breakage, these are perfect for picnics and parties. Each 3-liter box holds the equivalent of four 750ml-sized bottles. Vin Vault is available in six varietals: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Red Blend.

So, this Earth Day (and beyond) raise a glass of sustainable wine knowing you can drink well while doing good.

NOTE: Featured Image Courtesy of Wikipedia

Sometimes, I think I don’t write enough about affordable wines. Of course, what’s “affordable” is relative. Usually described in wine magazines as “good values” or “everyday wines,” these generally are defined as wines that deliver good quality –correct varietal character, clean fruit and a sense of character for a reasonable price – nowadays usually for $20 or less. Don’t expect fancy single vineyard expressions. Do expect tasty, inviting wines that you’ll swear are worth more than you paid.

Kendall-Jackson. From the original brand Jess Jackson (who passed away in 2011) started in 1983, Kendall-Jackson has grown into one of the world’s largest family-owned wine companies. The “Vintner’s Reserve” line is still the company’s backbone and these new red releases are as exemplary as the white wines the brand is best known for.

• 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon ($24)
• 2013 Merlot ($19)
• 2013 Summation Blend ($17)
• 2014 Syrah ($17)

Rodney Strong. Founded in 1959 by Rodney Strong and owned by Tom Klein since 1989, they have had the same winemaker in Rick Sayre since 1979. The winery has built its reputation on delivering quality from Sonoma’s best appellations. This includes its Sonoma County designated wines.

• 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon ($20)
• 2012 Merlot ($20)
• 2013 Chardonay ($17)

Murphy-Goode. Located in the Alexander Valley region of Sonoma County, Murphy-Goode is a family-owned winery – twice. Founded 30 years ago by three friends, the winery now is part of Jackson Family Wines, while the original families are still involved. The fresh white wines below carry a California designation.

• 2014 Chardonnay ($14)
• 2014 Sauvignon Blanc “The Fume” ($14)
• 2014 Pinot Grigio ($14)

Silver Palm. This relatively new label is focused on sourcing grapes from California’s coastal regions. Grapes for the Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Chardonnay, which are labeled North Coast, come mostly from Mendocino but also Napa and Sonoma. The Pinot Noir is sourced from the Central Coast vineyards, mostly Monterey with some Santa Barbara.

• 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon ($19)
• 2014 Merlot ($18)
• 2014 Pinot Noir Central Coast ($18)
• 2014 Chardonnay ($15)

Wild Horse. Located in San Louis Obispo County, this thirty-year-old winery was one of the pioneers of contemporary grape growing in the Central Coast. Originally focused on grapes from Paso Robles, they now produce a wide range of wines from vineyards throughout the Central Coast. The basic Central Coast line presents good introductions to the bounty of this area stretching roughly from Monterey to Santa Barbara.

• 2012 “GSM” ($15)
• 2014 Pinot Gris ($15)

The Federalist. The Federalist pays homage to our country’s Founding Fathers and their love of wine. The wines are crafted from grapes grown in Sonoma County and Lodi. The labels feature tributes to Alexander Hamilton, George Washington, John Adams and Ben Franklin. They even reference the Aaron Burr/Alexander Hamilton duel but curiously none reference Thomas Jefferson, the Founding Father most associated with wine. Notice the price on these Lodi wines.

• 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon ($17.76)
• 2014 Zinfandel ($17.76)

Josh Cellars. Founder Joseph Carr created this value line as a tribute to his father. Supplementing his namesake flagship wines, these are blended from North Coast grapes, especially Mendocino and Lake counties.

• 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon
• 2013 Legacy Blend
• 2013 Sauvignon Blanc

Is it coincidence that the “cradle of civilization” also is the likely origin of winemaking on the planet?

Although there isn’t absolute proof of those origins, the lands south of the Black Sea and east of the Mediterranean Sea have yielded the earliest known discoveries of winemaking dating at least 8000 years ago.

This includes the area known as Anatolia, comprising most of today’s Republic of Turkey, one of the oldest permanently settled regions in the world. The area also has a history of empire including those of Alexander the Great, Greek, Roman, and Byzantine, not to mention invasions from Mongols, Persians and Arabs. From 1300 to the early 1900s, Turkey was the base for the Ottoman Empire.

Throughout, there was grape growing and winemaking. Given this, I find it curious Turkish wines are seldom found on the shelves of U.S. wine stores. I hope that changes soon. I recently tasted two representative wines from indigenous grape varieties and, though an extremely small sample, I was quite impressed with the quality.

The wines are from Vinkara Winery in Kalecik, a small village in mountainous Anatolia. The red, a 2012 Kalecik Karasi Reserve (pronounced Kah-le-djic Car-ah-ser, $27) is medium bodied with bright red and black fruits, hints of spice and vanilla, with fresh acidity and a sleek texture. The white, a 2013 Narince (pronounced Nah-rin-djeh, $15) presents searing citrus and mineral notes followed by tight acid structure.

Although wines from the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia also are just beginning to emerge in international markets, like Turkey, they still haven’t entered the psyche of American wine drinkers. Yet, here too, there is a rich history of wine culture, dating at least back to 800 B.C.

This is the part of the Balkans that made up Yugoslavia whose break up in the early 1990s led to tragic ethnic conflict. The Republic of Macedonia is a landlocked country bordered by Kosovo, Serbia, Bulgaria, Greece, and Albania.

A brief review of the history of the area, again like Turkey, reveals millennia of conquests and empires. Most notably, Macedonia was the home of Alexander the Great who established one of the largest empires of the ancient period. The area has been under the influence of ancient Greece and later the Persian, Roman and Ottoman empires, the latter of which controlled Macedonia for over 500 years until its dissolution in the early 1900s.

Macedonia escaped much of the violence of the early 1990s but not the late 1990s, delaying improvements in trade and investment, including wine production, which only began to recover in the 2000s. In the last 15 years, though, the Macedonian wine industry has modernized dramatically but with a commitment to preserving indigenous varieties. Interestingly, my tasting revealed international grape varieties also do well here.

A vestige of this history, Macedonia has over 61,000 acres of vineyards, which are managed by 15,000 winemaking families and producers. I enjoyed wines from only two producers in the Tikves region, considered Macedonia’s vineyard heartland. But it was enough to convince me.

• 2014 Stobi Zilavka (pronounced zhi-luv-ka, $11): fresh, nutty cashew and almond, lime and apricot
• 2014 Stobi R’Katsiteli (pronounced Rkah-tsee-tely, $15): hay and stone, green apple and gooseberry, brisk with good body, tangy finish
• 2013 Stobi Macedon Pinot Noir ($15): nice plum with a touch of earth and polished tannins
• 2014 Bovin Chardonnay ($15): initially smells like Sauvignon Blanc, then develops intense aromatics and flavors of herbs and chalk with deep citrus and tropical fruit
• 2013 Bovin Dissan ($30): made with the highly regarded vranec red grape there is plum and notes of fresh soil; medium body and quite flavorful with a sleek texture

So, if you are looking for something different or just feeling a bit adventurous, go to the source and try these ancient, yet modern wines. And if you can’t find them, urge your local retailer to stock them.

With winter’s cold settling in, I find myself craving heartier foods and heartier wines to accompany them. If you are looking for full flavored wines, too, especially ones that provide a lot of wine for the money, consider Petite Sirah and Syrah.

Until the last decade or so petite sirah was a largely unknown grape, used mostly for blending. Now, DNA testing has proven that the vast majority of what has been known by that name in California is actually durif, a variety that was propagated in the south of France in the 1880s by crossing the noble Rhone variety syrah and the obscure grape peloursin.

But the grape thrives in California. It often has been commented that there is nothing petite about Petite Sirah wines. While they often display a flavor profile similar to their parent syrah – dark berries, tobacco, leather, earth, mineral and pepper, with an ability to age well, they typically are wines of deep color, dense structure, rustic body and agibility.

A good introduction to the style is the 2013 Chronic Cellars “Suite Petite” ($15) with its big, brash fruit. Josh and Jake Beckett, whose parents own Peachy Canyon in Paso Robles, created this wine company focused on casual wines in 2008. And this wine delivers.

More serious is the 2013 Parducci “True Grit” Reserve ($30). In Mendocino County since 1932, Parducci was an early adopter of petite sirah and True Grit is their flagship wine. This vintage is meaty and woodsy with plenty of rustic tannins suggesting it’s best to let it evolve for a few years before enjoying.

Another pioneer of modern winemaking in Mendocino, Edmeades is best known for its Zinfandels. But their admirable 2012 Mendocino County Petite Sirah ($35) shows smoky, concentrated aromas and bright, spicy fruit, while a lush texture balances the initially tough tannins.

Since its establishment in 2005, Fulcrum Wines has distinguished itself as a Pinot Noir specialist. As the name Fulcrum indicates, the stated goal for the wines is balance, a quality that is a challenge to achieve with Petite Sirah. But, even while petite sirah is unusual for the pinot noir and chardonnay dominated Russian River Valley, Fulcrum has pulled it off with the 2012 “Landy Vineyard” ($45). Its ripe fruit is balanced with firm acidity, while its lush texture reveals ample tannins. It should gain complexity with time.

Syrah is widely recognized as one of the world’s great red wine grapes. At its best, its wines provide great concentration, complexity and elegance, with characteristic pepper, meat, and leather accents and an ability to develop for many years. Even a lower priced syrah will deliver forward fruit and a smooth texture that is just right for everyday drinking.

The 2013 Kendall-Jackson “Vintner’s Reserve” Santa Barbara County ($17) is a good example of a value drive syrah. It has notes of resin, smoke and earth balanced with solid fruit, while its solid structure is presented seamlessly.

Bob Lindquist founded Qupé Winery in 1982 with a name to honor the Chumash, the indigenous people of the California’s Central Coast and Channel Islands. His 2012 Qupé Santa Barbara County Syrah ($30) is admirably suggestive of a French Rhone’s bold textural qualities. It is deep and spicy but also savory and elegant with a solid structure.

Finally, here’s a fantastic syrah-dominated blend from Washington: the 2012 Buty Walla Walla Valley “Rediviva of the Stones” Rockgarden Estate ($60). Buty Winery is the fifteen-year-old project of Nina Buty that has quickly taken a place among the state’s best. A blend of 78% syrah, 13% cabernet sauvignon and 9% mourvedre, this wine entices with its intense aromatics and flavors that deftly blend fruit and savory elements into a wine of lively elegance, yet enough structure to improve over the next ten years.

So, whether it is “sirah” or “syrah,” these substantial reds are ideal candidates for you’re your winter meals.

One of my favorite things about the holiday season is it provides prime opportunities to open special bottles of wine. And what makes a special occasion even more special? For many people, it’s a bottle of sparkling wine. Whether for parties, toasts, or even better a holiday meal, the holidays are prime time for indulging a bit if bubbly.

Of course, Champagne gets most of the buzz but effervescent wine is so popular, there are versions made in virtually every wine region. This column focuses on these other effervescent wines.

There is a lot of good French sparkling wine beyond Champagne (designated Crémant) and most are made using the “Methode Champenoise” (the Champagne Method where the second fermentation occurs in the bottle) but still much more affordable.

Crémant d’Alsace is one of the best of these. It typically is light and fruity but offers a nice measure of complexity. I found two Brut Rosés from two of the most important Crémant producers in Alsace, both 100% pinot noir. The Lucien Albrecht ($22) offers a crisp taste of strawberry and has finesse. The Pierre Sparr ($19) has fresh aromas of soft red berries and delicate, fruity flavors and lively acidity.

Crémant de Limoux comes from vineyards surrounding the town of Limoux in the Languedoc-Rousillon region, which lays claim to producing sparkling wine by a second fermentation in the bottle long before Champagne. Domaines Paul Mas “Cote Mas” Brut ($16), a blend of 60% chardonnay, 20% chenin blanc, 10% pinot noir and 10% mauzac, has enticing flowery, citrus and toast on the nose and pleasant pear, apple and lemon flavors.

Spanish Cava, also is produced by the traditional method. Long an affordable alternative to Champagne, it uses indigenous grapes (macabeo, xarel-lo, parellada) grown in the Penedès Valley in Catalonia not far from Barcelona.

Two of the most reliable producers are Codorníu and Paul Cheneau. Anna de Codorníu Brut ($15) celebrates the life of Codorníu’s last heiress. It was the first Cava to use chardonnay in its cuvee, 70 percent in this release that reveals some richness with a solid structure and a creamy texture. The Paul Cheneau Brut ($14) suggests a French influence with a creamy elegance and structure.

One of the best California sparkling wine producers, Gloria Ferrer, actually has a Spanish connection:it was founded by owners of Freixenet, the world’s largest producer of Methode Champenoise. Its impressive line of sparklers includes the Sonoma Brut ($22) is dominated by pinot noir with a touch of chardonnay. It best reflects the house style of fresh white fruits and mildly toasty elements delivered with a delicate, sleek texture. As a contrast, the Blanc de Blancs ($22) is all chardonnay. It’s crisp with citrus, apple and creamy vanilla. The Blanc de Noirs ($22) tantalizes with sweet sensations of pretty red fruits. Then presents a luscious palate that finishes with zest. Finally, the 2007 Royal Cuvée Brut Late Disgorged ($37) composed of 2/3 pinot noir and 1/3 chardonnay is the peak of Gloria Ferrer production. Apple, citrus, cherry, and vanilla make delightful appearances with a rich, creamy texture and a crisp finish.

Prosecco, from the hills north of Venice around the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, is made predominantly using the native glera grape using the Charmat Method. The bubbles are produced in large stainless steel tanks to preserve glera’s fresh aromas and clean, delicate fruit. Prosecco. With its soft bubbles and low alcohol it makes a great aperitif, probably why it is the traditional base for the famous Venetian cocktail, the Bellini.

One of its premier producers boasting a tradition in the area to 1542, is Bisol whose Desidero JEIO Brut ($17) shows delightful fresh apple, apricot and citrus. A real treat, the 2014 Crede Brut ($25) is an impressive single vineyard selection with a delicate mousse but intense fruit.

Other fine Prosecco worth seeking out: Mionetto Brut Treviso ($15) is a bit floral, with intense, fresh fruit; Mionetto Gran Rose Extra Dry ($15) is a fun alternative with red currant and pomegranate; Villa Sandi ($) produces another fine Prosecco from Treviso with ripe apple; Valdo Brut “Oro Puro” ($20) offers a fresh, lively style with evidence of greater complexity and fuller flavors.

With all its holidays and the associated parties and family gatherings, December may be the biggest month of the year for adventurous wine drinking opportunities. This also presents challenges deciding what (and what you can afford) to drink. Not to worry; I’m here to help.

For white wines, I prefer crisp, fruity, fragrant and food friendly. For reasonable prices, these wines also provide a refreshing combination of acidity and moderate alcohol.

Riesling, with its enticing aromatics, bracing acidity and apple, citrus and stone fruit flavors, is one of my favorite choices this time of year. One of Germany’s best, Dr. Loosen offers entry-level Rieslings produced with grapes from contracted growers. The 2012 Dr. L Dry ($14) is crisp and refreshing; the 2012 Dr. L ($14) is off dry, light and pleasantly fruity.

Pinot Gris, with fresh citrus, melon and more weight, provides a different drinking experience. The fruit forward, brisk and easygoing 2014 Willamette Valley Vineyards ($16) and the impressively rich and complex 2014 Raptor Ridge ($20) prove why this grape has emerged as the premier white wine of Oregon.

Another fun choice would be crisp, dry Alsatian versions of these grapes, like these from Hugel, a family owned company since 1639! The 2013 Riesling ($12) is aromatic and refreshing; the 2012 Pinot Gris “Classic” ($24) is a special selection revealing impressive weight and enticing nutty qualities. Also, check out the spicy lychee of the 2012 Gewürztraminer ($24) and the 2014 “Gentil,” a delicate but aromatic blend.

Sauvignon Blanc typically sports zesty white and green fruits (often grapefruit or gooseberry) and distinctive herbaceousness that pairs with multiple foods. The 2014 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve ($13) is notable for its lush texture. The 2104 Avant ($13) is lighter and fresher with more forward fruit.

Chardonnay continues to be the most popular wine among American consumers. So, expecting many of you will be looking for modestly priced but still flavorful Chardonnays, I suggest the juicy apple and light cream of 2013 Talbott “Kali Hart” ($20), the toasty, delicate apple of 2013 Old Soul ($14), and the brisk citrus of 2013 La Merika ($13).

Diversity is the message of the season for red wines, too. While I drink mostly full-bodied wines during cold weather months, I still find a place for light reds, especially when faced with a wide variety of foods to match. The 2014 Willamette Valley Vineyards “Whole Cluster” ($22) uses whole cluster fermentation of pinot noir to promote freshness and fruit. Light but still flavorful, the 2014 Balletto Rose of Pinot Noir ($18) shows delightfully crisp strawberry notes.

Zinfandel is always a good choice this time of year. Its brash red fruit and peppery accents compliment many foods. The 2013 Renwood Premier Old Vine ($20) reflects hefty, dense Amador fruit. The 2013 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve ($17) bursts with bright, fresh Mendocino berries. And two: 2013 OZV “Old Vine” ($11) and 2012 Concrete ($20) reveal jammy Lodi fruit.

Cabernet Sauvignon is the most popular red wine in America, second overall only to Chardonnay. These will satisfy your craving: 2013 Joel Gott “815” ($18) for its luscious red fruit, 2013 Decoy ($25) for its intense fruit and lush texture, and 2013 Our Daily Cab ($11) for its fresh tasting organic fruit (also vegan, gluten free and no added sulfites).

Finally, a multi-varietal red blend can be a fun alternative for any occasion. Different aromas and flavors from different grapes come together to make a whole that is better than the sum of its parts. I like these two from Chronic Cellars (by brothers Jake and Josh Beckett who worked for their family’s Peachy Canyon Winery). The 2014 Purple Paradise ($15) shows lots of nice juicy red fruits from zinfandel, syrah, petite sirah and grenache. The 2013 Dead Nuts ($24) bursts with berry flavors thanks to zinfandel, tempranillo and petite sirah. Also delightful is the 2013 Charles & Charles “Post No. 35” ($12), a voluptuous blend of cabernet sauvignon and syrah.