Category: Wine

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ZINFANDEL IS RIPE FOR FALL GRILLING

I wonder how many wine drinkers will say, “Zinfandel is my favorite wine.” Count me in. I just love the lively wild berry (often described as bramble) fruit, brash texture, and spicy, peppery notes. It is especially enjoyable this time of year with all manner of grilled vegetables and meats, not to mention barbecue and other spicy foods.

 

And while the zinfandel grape, like so many other California grapes, actually has a European origin (Croatia!), it really is one of the few that makes indisputably better wine in California than anywhere else. And it is grown successfully all over the state. As it turns out, my recent tastings yielded enough recommendations – dominated by Sonoma, with three from Napa and one each from Mendocino and the Central Coast.

 

Outstanding

2010 Bella Dry Creek Valley “Barrel 32” ($55) – We shouldn’t be surprised this fourteen year-old Zinfandel specialist showed so well in my tastings. Winemaker Joe Healy has access to great old zinfandel vineyards and to another Zinfandel specialist, consulting winemaker Mike Dashe. This selection of Bella’s best barrels – aged 14 months 20% new French oak is big and brash, complex and rich, with tons of deep, extracted raspberry and cherry fruit, spices and sweet oak, a firm structure, yet a polished finish; Ageable

 

Excellent

 

2010 Bella Russian River Valley “Block 10” ($45) – aged in 20% new French and American oak, very ripe and rich combination of oak and intense blackberry fruit with chocolate, cassis, and black pepper, high alcohol but tastes balanced and finishes with friendly tannins, accented with 20% petite sirah; Ageable

2010 Amapola Creek Sonoma Valley Monte Rosso Vineyards “Vinas Antiguas” ($42) – After 15 years at Chateau St. Jean overlapping with 25 years at his own Arrowood Winery, Richard Arrowood, with his wife Alis, established a vineyard and winery on the Sonoma side of the Mayacamas Mountains and began producing wines under the Amapola Creek label. This unfiltered and unfined wine shows the pedigree of its mountain source and 118-year-old dry-farmed vines. It is dense, with cherry and blueberry fruit, licorice oak touches, pepper and spice notes, sleek texture, and noticeable but soft tannins.

 

2010 Bella Alexander Valley Big River Ranch ($38) – blended with 6% petite sirah, aged 12 months in 15% new French and America oak, full, rich, ripe and concentrated, loads of sweet blackberry and cherry fruit, spicy and earthy elements, a bit rough but reveals a certain elegance a solid structure

2010 Edmeades Mendocino County ($20) – New winemaker Ben Salazar has revitalized this long time Mendocino producer that is now part of Jackson Family Wines stable. Blended with 11% syrah and 10% petie sirah, aged 16 months in 20% new French and American oak, ripe, briary, cherry, raspberry, and blackberry, hints of oak, earth, and peppery spice, high alcohol, lively acidity but plump texture and soft tannins; Great Value

 

Very Good

 

2010 Bella Dry Creek Valley Maple Vineyard ($38) – aged 12 months in 20% new French and America oak, opens with an earthy (mineral?) note, then deep black fruits, but a bit rough, though nice blackberry and strong pepper flavors with smooth tannins

 

2010 Paraduxx Napa Valley “Z Blend” Red Wine ($48). Twenty years ago, when Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot specialist Napa Valley’s Duckhorn Winery wanted to produce a zinfandel-based blend, they decided to create a stand-alone label and winery. Following their duck theme, they named the new project Paraduxx, with a label displaying … well, think about it. The idea was to emulate the Super Tuscan wines of Italy and the Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon blends of Australia. Z Blend fuses 63% Zinfandel with 29% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot to make a complex, robust wine with the briary personality of Zinfandel and tannic structure of Cabernet.

 

2010 Paraduxx Napa Valley “C Blend” Red Wine ($52) – This flips the focus with 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Zinfandel, the power and herbaceousness of Cabernet compliments Zinfandel’s bright fruit, spice and broad palate.

 

2010 Dry Creek Vineyards Sonoma County “Heritage” ($19) – Founded in 1972 by David Stare, Dry Creek Vineyard was a pioneer of modern winemaking and viticulture in the Dry Creek Valley. Although the winery initially made its name with Sauvignon Blanc, it has recently gained much deserved attention for its Zinfandel. “Heritage” refers to the legacy of old vine budwood from Mazzoni Ranch vines in the Dry Creek Valley. Buttressed with 12% Petite Sirah, aged 14 months in 15% new French, American and Hungarian oak, this is a rustic, though easy going, expressive wine with peppery, smoky aromas and intriguing blackberry, chocolate and toast flavors buttressed with bright acidity and fresh tannins; Good Value

2010 Clos La Chance Central Coast ($15) – This twenty year old, family-owned winery produces wines from estate-grown fruit from vineyards near San Martin in Santa Clara County just east of the Santa Cruz Mountains. Blended with 11% petite sirah, aged 14 months in 20% new American oak, unfined and unfiltered. Really nice black cherry, black raspberry, and plum fruit are accented with a hint of vanilla. Fairly high alcohol, though juicy and spicy; great for everyday; Good Value.

 

Good

 

2010 Fritz Dry Creek Valley “Estate Grown” ($25) – Another family owned winery using estate grown fruit, this winery is over thirty years old. The wine is aged nine months in 30% new American oak, and is ripe and taut but a little of green, with solid acidity and tasty but somewhat shy fruit.

 

2011 Ranch Zabaco Sonoma Heritage Vines ($18) –This Zinfandel specialist, part of the massive Gallo family stable, has crafted a nice wine from grapes grown at three of their Dry Creek Valley vineyards. It is plump, with almost sweet black and red fruits, brown spices, and bright acidity, and is firm and spicy in the finish.

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THE BIG SUMMER 2013 CHARDONNAY REPORT

Chardonnay has long been considered the world’s greatest white wine grape. Its reputation for greatness has been firmly established by the heights it has achieved as the dominant white grape of Burgundy and Champagne. This reputation is probably the first thing that has attracted producers in other wine regions. It also turns out that chardonnay, like cabernet sauvignon, has an ability to make consistent, good wine in many regions around the world.

 

Consumers, for their part, have made chardonnay the most popular wine of any color in the world. And who could blame them? When done right, the grape yields a wine with a rich, full body and intense fruit that is easily recognizable and readily enjoyable.

 

Even a lower priced chardonnay should deliver rich, ripe fruit flavors, usually citrus or tropical, often also apple or pear, and sometimes melon or fig. Beyond accurate varietal fruit and an easy drinking style, more money should buy more body, concentration and complexity – such as an array of aromas and flavors, including spicy or toasty oak, honey, butter, cream, vanilla, butterscotch or hazelnut. Most of the wines, especially at higher price ranges, are best drunk within 2-4 years of release. The best wines should bring all this and more – intense flavors and layers of complexity, good acidic backbone, and succulent texture – but balance richness and weight with structure and acidity. They should combine both the power and grace that define the elusive quality of finesse. Here you will also find many that can improve with age.

 

The downside of chardonnay’s immense popularity is the rush to satisfy consumer demand has led to ill-advised plantings and overproduction. The result is many lackluster and uninteresting wines, particularly at the lower price ranges but also at the higher price levels. Because chardonnay’s popularity has grown even as the quantity of mediocre wine has increased, it has become something of a sport among wine journalists to trash the grape and the consumers who flock to it. Although it is clear that a lot of people are drinking a lot of bad chardonnay, my goal here is only to point readers to quality wines that deliver real flavor for your money.

 

Fortunately, there are plenty of responsible producers who consistently make wines that deliver the goods. And, if my tastings are any indication, producers as a whole have improved their offerings considerably, mostly by better balancing their use of new oak, malolactic fermentation, and sur lie aging (on “the lees”) to compliment ripe fruit and good acidity. It wasn’t long ago that in an article like this, I was able to recommend less than half of the wines I tasted. This time, I am recommending more than three-fourths.

 

Most wines in this report are from California but there are a few from other locales. The wines are listed in order of my personal preference within categories but all wines are recommended. Those that are likely to improve over time are marked “Ageable.”

 

EXCEPTIONAL

 

2011 Stonestreet “Bear Point” ($55) – mountain grown fruit, native yeast, 100% barrel fermented (malolactic and sur lie)and aged (50% new) 10 months; amazingly complex with orange, lemon nectarine and pineapple fruit, a honeyedrichness and a broad, creamy palate but a crisp mouthfeel and finishes with a mineral lift; Ageable

 

 

 

 

 

 

2011 Stonestreet “Broken Road” Alexander Valley ($40) – mountain grown fruit, native yeast, 100% barrel fermented (malolactic and sur lie) and aged (47% new) 10 months; intense and concentrated, smoky oak and buttery notes overlay complex lemon and orange citrus, apple and tropical fruit with mineral notes delivered with a rich, creamy texture balanced with vibrant acidity; Ageable

 

EXCELLENT

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2010 Patz & Hall “Hyde Vineyard” Carneros ($58) – native yeast, 100% malolactic and 52% barrel fermented and sur lie aged in barrel; toasty, buttery oak gives way to citrus, pear, tropical fruit, and stony notes over a fairly full, lush palate buttressed by strong acidity; Ageable

 

2011 Frank Family Vineyards Napa Valley ($35) – sourced from Frank Family’s Lewis Vineyard in Carneros, 100% barrel aged (one-third new) 10 months; juicy fruit of apple, citrus, apricot, and pineapple, caramel hazelnut oak spices and creamy texture balanced with fresh acidity, crisp finish

 

2011 Patz & Hall “Hudson Vineyard” Carneros ($55) – native yeast, 100% malolactic fermentation in barrel, barrel aged sur lie (55% new); oaky and buttery, with a lush palate but nicely balanced with lifted pear, tangerine and tropical fruit, and a rich but crisp texture

 

2011 Stonestreet Upper Barn ($75) – mountain grown fruit, native yeast, 100% barrel fermented (malolactic and sur lie) and aged (50% new) 10 months; opens with lush tropical fruit but powerful lemony acidity quickly asserts itself in this deeply concentrated and rich wine notable for its big, broad aromas and flavors that some may find overblown, while others may appreciate its intensity; Ageable

 

2011 Chappellet Napa Valley ($35) – sourced from cooler vineyards in southern Napa, 100% barrel aged on sur lie 8 months (one-third new); nice tropical notes, with a suggestion of toast and sweet oak precede a rounded texture, a bit of woody bitterness complimented by citrus, and tropical fruit, finishes light on its feet but lingers nicely

 

2011 Buty “Conner Lee Vineyard” Columbia Valley ($40) – initial fermentation in barrel sur lie, malolactic fermentation and aged in concrete, yields caramel apple leading into pear, pineapple and lemon fruit, elegant palate, balanced and supple rich finishes with juicy acidity.

 

2011 Patz & Hall “Dutton Ranch” Russian River Valley ($42) – native yeast, 100% malolactic fermentation in barrel (35% new) and barrel ages sur lie; Patz & Hall excels at the rich and oaky style and this one lavishes juicy pineapple, citrus, and pear with butter and cream but again offers ample acidity to keep it all together.

 

VERY GOOD

 

2011 Sequoia Grove Napa Valley ($28) – from Carneros fruit, stainless and barrel fermented (no malolactic), barrel aged 8 months sur lie; fine and firm, lively but well mannered, with citrus, orange, honey, toast and mineral notes, fresh and juicy

 

2011 La Crema Russian River Valley ($30) –100% barrel fermented (32% new) and malolactic fermentation, barrel aged 8½ months sur lie; quite aromatic with very nice lemon and crème brulee, clean, deep citrus and peach wrapped in fresh cream, fairly full and rich, ripe but well-balanced; Ageable

 

2010 Craggy Range “Kidnappers” Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand ($21) – native and inoculated yeast, stainless and barrel fermented and barrel aged 5 months; zesty citrus and tropical fruit meet a touch of oak and a suggestion of crushed nuts

 

2011 Kendall-Jackson “Grand Reserve” ($22) –100% barrel aged (one-third new) sur lie; from Santa Barbara and Monterey fruit, nice citrus and tropical fruit wrapped in light butterscotch with a touch of toasty oak

 

2011 Talbott “Sleepy Hollow Vineyard” Santa Lucia Highlands ($42) –100% barrel fermented and aged (30% new) sur lie 11 months; touches of sweet oak compliment concentrated apple, tropical and citrus fruit and mouthwatering acidity; Ageable

 

2010 Matanzas Creek Sonoma County ($26) – 100% barrel fermented (including malolactic) and aged (30% new) 10 months; nice mix of citrus and creamy oak, hint of butter, tight citrus in the mouth, an intriguing bitterness in middle, but a seamless texture

 

2011 Patz & Hall Sonoma Coast ($38) – native yeast, 100% barrel fermented and aged (40% new) 7 months; juicy citrus and tropical fruit, buttery aroma, creamy texture, and a fresh finish

 

2011 Francis Ford Coppola Winery “Director’s Cut” Russian River Valley ($21) – 100% barrel fermented (including malolactic) and aged (30% new) sur lie; citrus and baking spices are followed by a flavorful, sumptuous palate and a bright finish

 

2011 Talbott “Logan” Santa Lucia Highlands ($24) – a less expensive version of Sleepy Hollow Vineyard, 80% barrel fermented (20% stainless) and barrel aged 10 months; bright citrus, light cream, lemon merengue, touch of spice, rather firm and intense, quite a mouth impact, solid impact

 

2011 Davis Bynum “River West Vineyard” Russian River Valley ($30) – 100% barrel fermented (including malolactic) and aged (30% new) sur lie; toasty oak and vanilla, with grilled pineapple introduce a nice creamy entry, with butterscotch, but also lively dance on tip of the tongue, Barrel fermented full malolactic fermentation

 

2010 Grgich Hills Estate Grown Napa Valley ($42) – from organic and biodynamic American Canyon and Carneros fruit, native yeast, 100% barrel fermented (no malolactic) and aged (40% new) 10 months; citrus and pear fruit with solid backbone and crisp finish, a refreshing alternative to the big, buttery style

 

2010 Byron “Nielsen Vineyard” Santa Maria Valley  ($32) – native yeast, 100% barrel fermented (including malolactic) and aged (40% new) sur lie 12 months; nicely aromatic citrus, mango and orange, with a buttery note, good balance of fruit and acid; Ageable

 

2012 Freemark Abbey Napa Valley ($30) – stainless steel fermentation (including malolactic), barrel aged (15% new) 4 months; very fresh lemon and orange aromas and flavors, light touch and juicy palate

 

2011 “Charm Acres”, Sonoma Coast ($21) – 100% barrel fermented (no malolactic) and aged (25% new) sur lie 8 months; citrus and pear fruit, with a spicy note followed by an intense and mango and a touch of minerality

 

2012 Kendall-Jackson “Avant” ($17) – 54% stainless and 46% barrel fermented (partial malolactic) and aged (30% new) 10 months; citrus and floral notes throughout, lots of juicy fruit and a full body

 

2012 Kendall-Jackson “Vintner’s Reserve” ($17) – 100% barrel fermented (including malolactic) and aged sur lie; citrus and cream in nose and mouth, juicy, creamy texture, light spice in finish

 

GOOD

 

2010 Amapola Creek “Jos. Balli Vineyards” Sonoma Valley ($35) – light pear, citrus and oak and a lush texture

 

2011 La Crema Monterey County ($20) – Arroyo Seco fruit, tangy citrus and tropical fruit, light butterscotch

 

2011 Stoller “Reserve” Dundee Hills, Oregon ($35) – pleasant lemon, toast and oak, light, crisp, strong-tight citrus spine

 

2011 Rodney Strong “Chalk Hill Estate” Sonoma County ($22) – fresh, citrus, and orange, oily texture carries nice fruit

 

2011 Landmark “Overlook” ($25) – juicy tropical fruits, touch of cream with orange essence, creamy texture

 

2011 J. Lohr “October Night” Arroyo Seco ($25) – pineapple and some lemon with butter and cream, nice lush texture

 

2011 Rodney Strong Sonoma County ($22) – butter, pineapple, touch of brown spice, light, fruity, spicy aftertaste

 

2012 Arrowood Sonoma County ($21) – lemon wrapped with oaky, buttery cloak with vanilla, tropical fruit, nicely balanced

 

2011 Byron Santa Maria Valley ($27) – nutty, creamy, toasty aromas followed by fig and honey flavors

 

2011 J. Lohr “Riverstone” Arroyo Seco ($14) – rather firm, a buttery note, decent citrus, touch of butterscotch in finish

 

2011 Jordan Russian River Valley ($30) – lightly creamy, oaky notes combine with pineapple and tart citrus in a lean frame

 

2011 Lange Twins Clarksburg ($15) – white plum, honey, smoke, soft and fruity, lingering finish

 

2011 Edna Valley Vineyards “Paragon Vineyard” ($12) – butterscotch, caramel, lemon merengue, light cream, fat and soft

 

2011 Talbott “Kali Hart” Estate Grown ($20) – nice tropical aromas, sugary overlay, somewhat light but tasty, a slight vegetal finish

 

2011 Clos LaChance Chardonnay Monterey County ($11) – toasty pineapple with touch of spice, bright citrusy flavors

 

2011 Matchbook “Old Head” Dunnigan Hills ($15)– fresh apple and lively tropical fruits

 

2011 Cambria “Katherine’s Vineyard” Estate Bottled Santa Maria Valley ($22) – a smoky, charred character, strong citrus in nose and mouth,

 

2011 Dark Horse California ($8) – lemon, toasty notes, with licorice scents

 

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HOPE FAMILY SHOWCASES THE BEST OF PASO ROBLES

On a recent press trip to Paso Robles, sponsored by Hope Family Wines, our host Austin Hope set the tone for the visit when he said it was his goal to show us the diversity of the region, not just his wines. I welcomed this, not only because Hope’s wines have long been among my favorites but also because I had been to Paso twice before and was eager to see how the region has developed.

 

Paso Robles is the largest American Viticultural Area (AVA) in California. It is also the name of the main town of about 30,000, whose original name was El Paso del Robles (“Passage of the Oaks”). But, after my visits to the area, I think Paso could just be short for “passion.

Austin Hope oversees Hope Family Wines (www.hopefamilywines.com), a family-owned and -operated enterprise encompassing five brands: Liberty School, Treana, Candor, Austin Hope and Troublemaker wines. Austin’s father, Chuck Hope moved his family from the Central Valley to Paso in 1978 to plant wine grapes pioneering families of the region. After growing grapes and developing vineyards throughout the eighties and early nineties, the family became convinced Paso Robles was capable of producing world-class wines and began producing their own wines.

 

They joined a handful of other pioneering families who helped promote the region, not just as a source of fine quality grapes but also as a complete wine travel destination. Today, Austin and Hope Family Wines also epitomize Paso Robles’ reputation for being on the cutting edge, a reputation Austin has fostered by experimenting with Rhone-style blends and multiple vintage wines.

At a tour of the Huerhuero Vineyard, a longtime source for entry level Liberty School wines, on the Eastside of Paso Robles, and of the nearby Hope Family Wines winemaking facility, we learned from General Manager of Vineyard Operations Suhky Sran, Winemaker J.C. Diefenderfer, and Assistant Winemaker Samantha Taylor about the family’s role in developing vineyards throughout Paso Robles and how they work with over 50 family-owned vineyards to produce fruit for the Liberty School wines. The brand had bee created in the 1970’s by the Wagner family of Napa’s Caymus Vineyards and the Hopes collaborated with the Wagners since the late 1980’s to supply cabernet sauvignon grapes. He Hope’s then took over sole responsibility for the brand in 1996.

 

Today, there is a range of varietals that deliver consistent quality for the money and are regularly recognized as a “Good Values” and “Best Buys.” Look for Cabernet Sauvignon (2010, $14), Chardonnay wines (2011, $14), Pinot Noir ($20), and Liberty School Merlot ($16). The wines are made in a more restrained, food friendly style with forward fruit, good varietal character, and moderate alcohol.

 

The Hopes then established Treana Winery in 1996, to produce high-end Rhone-style blends from Paso Robles and Central Coast fruit. JC explained to us the name Treana symbolizes the trinity of natural elements – sun, soil and ocean – that make Paso Robles and the Central Coast exceptional for growing wine grapes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

To give us a flavor for what this means, we toured the Mer Soleil Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands near Salinas (our only stop outside of Paso Robles). This Monterey County-based vineyard is the long-time major source for Treana White, one of the first white Rhone-style blends and still one of the most highly regarded. The current vintage (2011, $23) is a blend of equal parts viognier and marsanne. Floral and tropical aromatics precede ripe pear and honey flavors combined with a lush texture and balancing acidity.

 

The Treana Red (2010, $45), which Austin considers his flagship wine, is a blend of cabernet sauvignon and syrah. It combines the depth and structure of a Cab, with the fullness and class of syrah. It is a perfect example of Austin’s willingness to work outside-the-box. Not many wineries were combining Rhone and Bordeaux blends when he created this wine almost twenty years ago.

The Hopes also own a vineyard on the Westside of Paso Robles planted primarily to syrah and grenache, with some mourvedre. Austin crafts wines inspired by the Northern Rhône Valley from this estate grown fruit. Known as the Hope Family Vineyard, it is located 20 miles east of the Pacific Ocean in the Templeton Gap district of Paso Robles. The site’s rocky soils of clay and limestone make it ideal for the Rhône varietals to which it is planted.

 

At this site, we were given a fascinating overview of the sustainable farming practices – certified by Sustainability in Practice (SIP), www.sipcertified.com – employed in the vineyard. Beth Vukmanic Lopez, Sustainability in Practice Certification Manager explained how for over 15 years, SIP has helped growers, vineyards and consumers rethink their approach to sustainability. As Beth said, SIP Certified sustainable vineyards and wines is about looking at the whole farm and considering “people, planet and profit.” In this sense, SIP is complementary to organic practices, not necessarily a replacement. Of course, a winery needs to make a profit to stay in business but that is closely tied to the quality of the wines, which depends on the quality of the grapes, which is connected to healthy vineyards. But SIP practices also consider the well being of the vineyard and winery workers, an often over looked factor. An important element to the success of the program is the third party certification SIP provides using independent auditors.

 

At the winery and tasting room on site, we enjoyed a barrel tasting of 2012 vintage Austin Hope Syrah and Grenache. Austin told us he uses traditional Côte-Rotie as his benchmark in making his syrah. But, being in California, he added he likes his wines to taste like the old world wines “but with a little bit more.”

This approach showed through the current vintages we tasted. The Syrah (2010, $42) displayed a balance of savory and fruit elements. Aromatic, intense and full-bodied, it also was elegant with pure berry fruit, licorice and earthy complexity. The Grenache (2010, $42) revealed characteristics of dried red fruits, earth and spices with good concentration, firm acidity and soft tannins.

 

The Hopes haven’t stopped to rest on these successful brands. Another label, “Candor” was created in 2008. These multi-vintage wines, a Merlot and Zinfandel, are crafted from specially selected fruit from a variety of Central Coast vineyards. They exhibit excellent varietal flavor at a reasonable price. We tasted the Zinfandel Lot 4 ($20) and Merlot Lot 3 ($20), which I found notable for their true varietal flavor and fresh, bright fruit.

 

Finally, the newest label in the Hope Family stable, “Troublemaker,” places Austin Hope’s creativity and willingness to challenge convention on full display. Troublemaker Blend 6 ($20) is a multi-vintage montage of 50% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Zinfandel and 10% Petite Sirah. Its profile reflected its name with brash fruit and lively texture.

While it was great to learn about all the Hope wines, the trip was made really special by the inclusion of visits to some of Paso Robles most notable artisan producers and restaurants.

 

Villa Creek (www.villacreek.com) has long been a destination restaurant for Paso Robles.

Artisan (www.artisanpasorobles.com) grows some of its ingredients at a local organic farm and showcased a distinctive wine on tap program.

Thomas Hill Organics (www.thomashillorganics.com) is a casual market-bistro that serves spectacularly fresh food, not surprising since most of it comes from their own organic farm.

Il Cortile Ristorante (www.ilcortileristorante.com) features exceptional homemade pastas, fresh seafood, and top-quality meats.

 

All of the restaurants craft dishes as much as possible from seasonal, locally grown ingredients from small producers, much of it organically or sustainably farmed. At these restaurants, farm-to-table is not just a marketing slogan. They live it every day. I will say without hesitation these places are as good as the best restaurants in any city in the nation.

 

And as if that wasn’t enough, to give us a sampling of the top quality artisan products being produced in the area we also toured two special places.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A visit to the Kiler Ridge Olive Farm (http://kilerridge.com) with founders Audrey Burnam & Gregg Bone was eye opening. Although it is just minutes from downtown Paso Robles the hilly, picturesque location transports visitors to another location, specifically Italy. Kiler Ridge uses sustainable farming practices and currently maintains 2,500 olive trees – varieties originating from Italy and Sicily.

 

Gregg and Audrey were gracious hosts. Gregg provided us with an extensive overview of his production process and explained in amazing detail why most of the “extra virgin” olive oil we buy in the supermarket isn’t really, regardless of what’s on the label.

 

It was particularly enlightening to me to actually taste the difference. The Kiler Ridge oils were noticeably fresher and displayed distinct grassy and peppery flavors. Greg explained this is because his oils have much higher polyphenol content – he even said, “I’m a polyphenol producer, not an olive oil producer.” Polyphenols are strong antioxidants with many health benefits. Bottom line, though, the oils were delicious but admittedly might be an acquired taste for some consumers used to blander commercial oils.

 

And they presented us with the most eye opening taste sensation I have hade in years: vanilla ice cream topped with sea salt, my choice of Kiler Ridge olive oil and balsamic syrup. All I can say is “wow!” It was delicious with all the savory and sweet elements melding together beautifully.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We also took a refreshing break from winetasting for a tour of the Firestone Walker Brewery (www.firestonebeer.com) with Brewmaster Matt Brynildson. Firestone Walker (named for owners Adam Firestone and David Walker) has been brewing since 1996 but moved from Santa Barbara to Paso Robles in 2001. Firestone Walker and Brewmaster Brynildson are one of the nation’s most awarded breweries and are particularly notable for their use of barrel fermentation for several of their ales.

 

I wholeheartedly recommend the next time you are considering a vacation to wine country, make Paso Robles your destination. The number of wineries has grown from about forty 25 years ago to over 200 (mostly small and family-owned) today. But that is only the beginning of this region’s story. Passionate, dedicated artisan producers with a commitment to sustainability are to be found everywhere in the region.

 

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FOOD & WINE MAGAZINE BRINGS THE WORLD OF WINE TO ASPEN

While the cooking demonstrations and wine seminars are the foundation of the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen, another hallmark of the Classic is all the receptions, parties, and other special events. This year was no exception. I had so many invitations, I just couldn’t make them all … and believe me I tried.

 

But I still had many opportunities to discover new wines and meet new winemakers. For me, one of the best things about the Classic is the opportunity it presents to meet winemakers and winery owners and to taste wines from producers whom I seldom or never get a chance to try.

For instance, I had a chance to sit down with Michael Martini, the third generation winemaker for the Louis M. Martini Winery in the Napa Valley. Michael, who has been the winemaker for this family (a family that has an over 100 year old history of winemaking in California) since 1977, was anxious to tell me about (and have me taste) his wines. Mariola Varona Bayola, the Export Manager for Bodegas Martin Codax, also joined us. Martín Códax is a 27 year old Spanish winery that is best known for its Albariño. Confused that representatives of a California winery and a Spanish winery both were at this meeting? Don’t be, both are now owned by the Gallo family. And both were delightful lunch companions. And their wines – Martini Cabs and Codax Albariño – were equally enjoyable.

 

It was a treat to be able to attend a reserve tasting moderated by Master Sommelier Richard Betts on “The Extraordinary Wines of California’s Sine Qua Non.” Now, if you have never heard of Sine Qua Non, don’t worry. That just means you are not a wine geek. Sine Qua Non is a “cult wine” among the cult wines. You can only buy them if you first get on their mailing list and then wait only God knows how long to get in. Maybe you can find one on a restaurant wine list but it probably will cost hundreds of dollars. This is what is special about these reserve tasting’s. They offer rare opportunities to taste equally rare and extraordinary wines.

All of the wines we tasted reflected differing blends of various Rhone varietals – the reds presented different expressions of syrah and grenache, while the whites showed off combinations of roussanne, viognier, and chardonnay. My key take away from the tasting is that the wines definitely lived up to their hype. First and foremost, all six wines showed off beautiful fruit. The use of oak showed in balance with the depth of fruit and acidity.

 

It’s a ritual every year to wander the Grand Tasting Tent, where producers from all over the world display their wares, in the hopes of making new discoveries. As with previous years, I ended up on a sort of world tour. I don’t have room to list all the wines tasted but here are a few highlights.

Although Australia is best known for many great Shiraz, I’m glad I was persuaded to take the road less traveled and try some really outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. From Penley Estate, a highly regarded winery in the Coonawarra region of South Australia, I enjoyed the “Phoenix” and Reserve Cabs and chatting with Proprietor/Chief Winemaker Kym Tolley. From the Yarra Valley region of Victoria, I really was impressed with Pinot Noirs from Giant Steps and Innocent Bystander, partly because one usually doesn’t think of great Pinot Noir from Australia but also because Owner/Winemaker Phil Sexton was pouring and explaining the wines. Before leaving Australia, I found one more wine I also highly recommend: the Vasse Felix “Heytesbury” Cabernet Sauvignon from the Margaret river region of Southwestern Australia.

 

Representing Portugal, the Esporão Assobio, which is made predominantly from touriga nacional, tinta roriz and touriga franca grapes, is a distinguished single vineyard red worthy of any serious wine drinker. If you think the only Portugal wine worth drinking is Port (and Port is great stuff), think again. There is a lot of great Portuguese dry table wine and Assobio is one of the best.

 

Wines from Spain for many years has hosted a whole tent as a separate location within the Grand Tasting park and it is always a great place to hunt for new wines. This year I was especially impressed with the wines at the “Drink Ribera” (that’s Ribera del Duero, one of Spain’s most important regions). My favorites were the Bodegas Montecastro, from high altitude vineyards, and Alejandro Fernandez Tinto Pesquera, from a pioneer of modern Spanish wine. Both are excellent representations of tempranillo, Spain’s most distinguished grape.

 

I finished my tour in the tent tasting several California wines, with the highlights being the following, all really outstanding, wines:

 

  • 2011 Franciscan Cuvée Sauvage Chardonnay
  • 2009 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
  • 2009 Simi Cabernet Sauvignon Landslide Vineyard
  • 2009 Franciscan Magnificat (Bordeaux-style blend)
  • 2009 Mt. Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
  • 2010 Ravenswood Zinfandel Belloni Vineyard

As for the receptions, the annual Wines from Spain/Jose Andres Spanish Barbecue was another stunner. Hosted at an amazing trophy home/mansion in the mountains above the Buttermilk ski area, there were again delectable grilled meats and shrimp, tasty charcuterie, and a wonderful array of cheeses. Of course, there also were some excellent wines. I was impressed enough with three wines – Bodegas Roda Rioja  “Roda 1,” Bodegas Muga Rioja “Torre Muga,” and Bodegas Emilio Moro Ribera del Duero “C21 Malabrigo” – to actually write them down amid all the happy chaos.

But I was especially impressed this year with the reception for the “Chef’s Club by Food & Wine” restaurant. This is a special restaurant within the St. Regis hotel that features a rotating lineup of Food & Wine Best New Chefs doing the cooking. What was really cool was the collection of fine Colorado artisan producers presenting their creations in the courtyard. Kudos to Continental Sausage (Denver), Licious Organics (Boulder), Linger restaurant (Denver), Quixotic Tilapia Farm (Canon City), Magpies (Eagle), Aero Farm (Lakewood), Outrageous Gluten-Free Baking (Denver), Jumpin’ Good Goat Dairy (Buena Vista), Etalia Gluten-Free Breads (Boulder), Raquelitas Tortillas (Denver), and

Esoteric Foods “Zuke” Pickled Products (Boulder).

 

Needless to say, it was another year of discovery at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen. I already can’t wait for next year.

 

 

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SMITHSONIAN CHRONICLES TRANSFORMATION OF AMERICAN FOOD & WINE

Volumes have been written about the transformations that occurred in American society in the last half of the Twentieth Century. Certainly, no arena of American society has seen more change since the end of World War II than that of food production and consumption.

 

A new exhibit, “Food: Transforming the American Table,” which opened at the Smithsonian National Museum of American History last November, really brings these changes to life in a unique and effective way. I had a chance to view the exhibit recently and heartily recommend you visit it, too.

Fourteen years in the making, co-curator of the exhibit, Paula Johnson told me this first major Smithsonian exhibition on food history is intended to illuminate the transformation of how food is produced, how we eat, and what we eat. Ms. Johnson also wanted to make sure I noted she made a conscious decision to include a section on wine in recognition of its growing significance in American food culture and the increasing acceptance of its place at the American table. I will touch on this later in this column and will go into greater detail about the wine section, including my subsequent interview with winemaker Warren Winiarski (a critical figure in American wine history), in a future article.

Courtesy of Smithsonian

The exhibit employs a variety of displays to illustrate the post-war changes. It begins with “Julia’s Kitchen.” This literally is the kitchen from Julia Child’s Cambridge, MA home with original table, appliances, and utensils. It was quite remarkable to peer through the glass and witness this iconic space.

Courtesy of Smithsonian

“New and Improved” – a display highlighting the introduction of various new scientific approaches to farming, processing and distribution – recalls various developments in what I would call the industrialization of food. Even as science and technology (most notably in the form of chemical fertilizers and pesticides) produced higher yields, more certainty and lower costs in the fields, new appliances and access to more energy changed the way people prepared meals.

 Viewing the display, I also got a sense of how all this intersected with the American myth of “progress” and how advertising slogans like “better living through chemistry” were deployed in an industry offensive to convince the American people (who had just survived the Great Depression and World War II) the changes would always make life better. Of course, it wasn’t all good news. A section of the display titled “A System for Abundance” tells a story of the difficult, dangerous lives of the workers in the field.

Courtesy of Smithsonian

Curator Johnson aptly characterized “Resetting the Table” as illustrating the complementary and contradictory trends of the time – showing how immigrants, activists, and global travelers all challenged what had become convention. The display first takes a look at the rise of ethnic food and its connection to the country’s history as a nation of immigrants. To me it illustrates an insight into how immigrants adapted to their new environment and how those of us already here have benefited from a broadening of our exposure to previously unfamiliar foods, cultures and people.

 

This section also chronicles the rise of alternative visions of American food culture that emerged in the 1960’s and 1970’s – often associated with what has been labeled the “counterculture” and “back-to-the-land” movements – and focused on small scale, organic production. Being reminded of the “Do It Yourself” advice of Mother Earth News it becomes clear these alternatives were (and are) not anti-science, as often has been charged. Rather, they reflected a different approach to science – one that used new discoveries to assist nature, not subjugate or appropriate it. And viewing copies of fondly remembered books like Dick Gregory’s Natural Diet for Folks Who Eat and the Moosewood Cookbook I realized also these were a call to recover an appreciation of quality, an assertion that food can taste good and be good for you.

While millions of Americans were embracing the new culture of convenience and abundance, these alternative voices drew attention to the trade offs and the long-term effects of mass production (industrial, large-scale, centralized) and mass consumption (consumerism, planned obsolescence, disposable): impacts on the environment, individual health and workers.

Courtesy of Smithsonian

This period also was a time of great transformation in wine. The “Wine for the Table” section calls attention to the complicated relationship this country has had with alcohol – specifically, in this case, fermented grape juice. Much has been made over the years of Thomas Jefferson’s affinity for wine; and even more has been written about the origins and legacy (and reality) of Prohibition.

 

Most people today still probably don’t realize wine grapes have been cultivated since the 1700’s on the East Coast; and probably only a few more realize the boom in California winegrowing that began about the mid-1800’s. Not surprisingly, in 1950, wine was mostly an afterthought for most Americans. Julia Child deserves credit here as well for introducing to the public the European tradition of drinking wine with food.


Then, in the 1960’s and 1970’s, a group of truly visionary California winemakers (many of whom benefited from consultation with the great winemaker André Tchelistcheff) transformed the industry, not only in California but – with a little help from the famous “Paris Tasting of 1976” – throughout the U.S. and really, over the following decades, the whole world.

 

The exhibit highlights contributions from now icons of the California wine industry, such as Robert Mondavi, who left his family’s winery to start his own winery and became arguably the greatest ambassador of California wine. And Miljenko “Mike” Grgich at Chateau Montelina and Warren Winiarski at Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars – the winners of the 1976 tasting – are well represented. These and others, of course, emulated French winemaking practices like using small oak barrels, along with what I’ll call modern winemaking techniques like using stainless steel tanks and temperature-controlled fermentation to vastly increase quality.

Display highlighting heritage of California Zinfandel

Actually, the transformation of wine after 1950 reflects many of the same forces as with food – the intersection of agriculture with business with marketing with culture. At the same time as these smaller producers were showing the world California could match European quality, large-scale wine production (most notably the Gallo family – shown on the cover of a 1972 issue of Time) emerged to introduce wine to the American public in a volume and at a price most could enjoy on a daily basis.

 

Over the last two decades especially, there has been a growing interest in organic and other forms of sustainable agricultural and cellar practices. Sometimes it seems like every winery large and small is touting its efforts in this regard. The key here, as Mr. Winiarski pointed out to me, seems to be to find ways to harness science, technology and cultural forces, while retaining the lessons of tradition.

Courtesy of Smithsonian

Finally, in what I think was a brilliant idea, they have included what they call the “Open Table” in the middle of the exhibit.  It is a place where “(v)isitors will have the opportunity to take a seat at a large, communal table and engage in conversation about a wide range of food-related issues and topics.” Here, the museum is inviting visitors to go beyond just being passive viewers of the exhibition. They are saying eating food and drinking wine are essentially social, convivial activities (not to mention economic and political activities). Visitors are encouraged to discuss the themes of the exhibit and even examine how this history has influenced each of our own eating and drinking choices.

 

As I have pondered this fascinating exhibit, it has occurred to me the unwritten theme could be “Back to the Future.” The natural food movement that began in the 1960’s has evolved and grown parallel to the growth of industrial food and the current renewed emphasis on local, small scale production grows in significance alongside the “Big Ag” of multinational corporations that for their part still dominate.

 

The 2000’s especially have seen a renewed commitment to authentic food and wine, with more emphasis on organic, local and small-scale production. The battles between these often opposing forces are heating up over the food world’s role in climate change and the pros and cons of GMOs. We even may be in the midst of another period of transformation. Maybe the Smithsonian should consider making the exhibit permanent and plan to add more years.

 

The exhibit will run indefinitely, and more information can be found at http://americanhistory.si.edu or by calling the public line at (202) 633-1000.

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A QUICK TRIP TO SPAIN

When I first got interested in wine (way too long ago to admit) Spanish wine basically was a go-to choice for good values for every day drinking. Even the storied Rioja seemed an afterthought in discussions of the world’s finest wines. That seemed largely true even twenty years ago, when I first started writing about wine.

 

Well, that’s so Twentieth Century. Today, Spanish wines must be included in any serious discussion of the world’s finest wines but what’s really cool is there still are plenty of great everyday values.

 

In the fine wine category, I include two recently tasted wines from two highly respected producers. Bodegas RODA was founded in the late 1980s by Maria Rottlant and Carmen Dauvella. This is a thoroughly modern winery making thoroughly modern wines but wines that pay tribute to the centuries old traditions of the Rioja. Each vintage, the seventeen best vineyards (all vines are 30-100 years old) are selected to ferment separately and then three blends are fashioned to express different styles of tempranillo, Spain’s signature red grape.

 

The 2006 RODA Reserva ($45) is 100 percent tempranillo aged in French oak of which half is new. It shows textbook red berry fruit character, though maybe a bit sweet. That is offset with toasty, earthy, smoky notes and fresh acidity. It finishes with elegant, supple tannins.

 


In nearby Toro, we find more evidence of the modern winemaking renaissance in Spain and Bodegas Farina is one of the leaders, which is interesting in that it also is one of the oldest family wineries in the region, founded in 1942. It wasn’t long ago Toro was virtually unknown outside of Spain.Not so today and wines like the 2006 Gran Dama de Toro ($45) are the reasons why. The wine is full-bodied and intense. It opens with aromas of oak, black fruits, bacon, and toast. It is packed with dense blackberry, cherry, and plum fruit accented with an herbal touch. Highly structured with strong tannins, it finishes surprisingly harmonious.As I mentioned, there are still countless good value, everyday wines from Spain. I found several in my tasting. 

Another region that has witnessed revitalization is the home of the “Man of La Mancha.” While this area is believed to be the largest single winegrowing region in the world, with most of the vineyard land given over to growing grapes for brandy or bulk wine, a number of entrepreneurs have embarked on a seemingly Quixotic quest to grow fine premium table wines. One such winery is Finca Constancia, near Toledo in the La Mancha region of Central Spain southwest of Madrid. It is owned by González Byass, a leading producer (founded in 1835 and still family owned and managed) of Spanish wines, Sherries and liqueurs, with the most notable brand being Tio Pepe. Finca Constancia was created as a single estate property to produce single parcel wines similar to the principles of Bordeaux.

 

The vineyard is planted to numerous international varietals (cabernet sauvignon, syrah, cabernet franc, petit verdot, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay) but also many indigenous varietals (tempranillo, graciano, verdejo and garnacha. With the designation “Vino de la Tierra de Castilla,” the wines below are built upon both new plantings and existing vineyards and take advantage of the more flexible production techniques under the Denomination of Origin laws.

 

  • Finca Constancia Red Blend ($15). A blend of syrah, cabernet franc and garnacha; herbal notes compliment cherry fruit and spice; soft feel but lifted with crisp acidity.

 

  • 2011 Parcela 23 ($20). 100 percent tempranillo, single vineyard; deep, dark fruit, light spice; though a little thin in the middle, it’s concentrated, fresh dark berries and woodsy spices please.

 

  • 2011 Parcela 52 ($20). A 100 percent verdejo, single vineyard white wine ringer; quite aromatic, light and fresh, with brisk limejuice accented with green herb notes and a lively spritz.
  •  2010 Altos de la Finca ($35). From the highest vineyards on the estate, this creative blend of petite verdot and syrah for the extra money adds admirable intensity with deep black fruits, dusty oaky notes followed by a nicely dry finish.
I was quite pleased to find several values from Rioja, the most famous Spanish wine growing region in the southern part of the Basque country. First up are two from Bodegas Bilbainas, which was founded in 1859 and today is the largest estate in the Rioja Alta and fourth largest in all of Rioja.

 

The 2009 Vina Pomal ($12) takes its name from a 108-year-old vineyard, though the grapes are from 10- to 20-year-old vines. It is a fairly traditional Rioja of 100 percent Tempranillo (interestingly aged in 90% American oak). It is designated a Crianza, meaning it has been aged a minimum of one year, with six months in barrel. I liked the earthy red fruits of this straightforward but tasty wine, with its lively palate and lively mouthfeel.

 

Another vineyard lends its name to the 2011 Vina Zaco ($15). Also 100 percent Tempranillo from 10- to 20-year-old vines, it is best understood as a new style Rioja. And it’s an excellent style. Aged equally in American and French oak, it opens with bright cherry and raspberry. The palate has good weight and depth. It is quite full and flavorful, with a juicy finish and aftertaste.

The ancestors of the Bodegas Miguel Ángel Muro have been making wine since 1892 and growing wine grapes even longer. Miguel’s 2008 “Muro Bujanda” Rioja Crianza ($14) is just a fantastic value. Bright cherry and red currant aromas join roasted and lightly creamy notes. Similar flavor profile marks the intense fruit and touches of spice.

 

Founded over a century ago in the Rioja Alavesa by the grandfather of the current owner, Ruiz de Vinaspro makes wines from vines that range from 40-100 years of age. The 2007 Ruiz de Vinaspro Rioja ($15) is 100 percent tempranillo. It sports toasty blueberry and blackberry fruit. The palate is very dry mixing fresh tannins and woodsy herbs with lively wild berry fruit. A little closed at first, it opens up nicely with time.

 

Finally, just in time for summer, the 2010 Bodegas Sumarroca “Temps Flors” ($14) if a delightful, refreshing wine. Sumarroca is located in the Penedes region of Catalonia near Barcelona. The name translates to “time of the flowers” and the unique blend of xarel-lo Muscat and gewürztraminer mirrors that expression in the wine’s aroma (though it’s actually named after a local flower festival). This fruity, off-dry wine sports appealing fruity notes of lychee and tropical fruits balanced with good fruit intensity, perfect for quaffin

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A QUICK TRIP TO SPAIN

When I first got interested in wine (way too long ago to admit) Spanish wine basically was a go-to choice for good values for every day drinking. Even the storied Rioja seemed an afterthought in discussions of the world’s finest wines. That seemed largely true even twenty years ago, when I first started writing about wine.

 

Well, that’s so Twentieth Century. Today, Spanish wines must be included in any serious discussion of the world’s finest wines but what’s really cool is there still are plenty of great everyday values.

 

In the fine wine category, I include two recently tasted wines from two highly respected producers. Bodegas RODA was founded in the late 1980s by Maria Rottlant and Carmen Dauvella. This is a thoroughly modern winery making thoroughly modern wines but wines that pay tribute to the centuries old traditions of the Rioja. Each vintage, the seventeen best vineyards (all vines are 30-100 years old) are selected to ferment separately and then three blends are fashioned to express different styles of tempranillo, Spain’s signature red grape.

 

The 2006 RODA Reserva ($45) is 100 percent tempranillo aged in French oak of which half is new. It shows textbook red berry fruit character, though maybe a bit sweet. That is offset with toasty, earthy, smoky notes and fresh acidity. It finishes with elegant, supple tannins.

 


In nearby Toro, we find more evidence of the modern winemaking renaissance in Spain and Bodegas Farina is one of the leaders, which is interesting in that it also is one of the oldest family wineries in the region, founded in 1942. It wasn’t long ago Toro was virtually unknown outside of Spain.Not so today and wines like the 2006 Gran Dama de Toro ($45) are the reasons why. The wine is full-bodied and intense. It opens with aromas of oak, black fruits, bacon, and toast. It is packed with dense blackberry, cherry, and plum fruit accented with an herbal touch. Highly structured with strong tannins, it finishes surprisingly harmonious.As I mentioned, there are still countless good value, everyday wines from Spain. I found several in my tasting. 

Another region that has witnessed revitalization is the home of the “Man of La Mancha.” While this area is believed to be the largest single winegrowing region in the world, with most of the vineyard land given over to growing grapes for brandy or bulk wine, a number of entrepreneurs have embarked on a seemingly Quixotic quest to grow fine premium table wines. One such winery is Finca Constancia, near Toledo in the La Mancha region of Central Spain southwest of Madrid. It is owned by González Byass, a leading producer (founded in 1835 and still family owned and managed) of Spanish wines, Sherries and liqueurs, with the most notable brand being Tio Pepe. Finca Constancia was created as a single estate property to produce single parcel wines similar to the principles of Bordeaux.

 

The vineyard is planted to numerous international varietals (cabernet sauvignon, syrah, cabernet franc, petit verdot, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay) but also many indigenous varietals (tempranillo, graciano, verdejo and garnacha. With the designation “Vino de la Tierra de Castilla,” the wines below are built upon both new plantings and existing vineyards and take advantage of the more flexible production techniques under the Denomination of Origin laws.

 

  • Finca Constancia Red Blend ($15). A blend of syrah, cabernet franc and garnacha; herbal notes compliment cherry fruit and spice; soft feel but lifted with crisp acidity.

 

  • 2011 Parcela 23 ($20). 100 percent tempranillo, single vineyard; deep, dark fruit, light spice; though a little thin in the middle, it’s concentrated, fresh dark berries and woodsy spices please.

 

  • 2011 Parcela 52 ($20). A 100 percent verdejo, single vineyard white wine ringer; quite aromatic, light and fresh, with brisk limejuice accented with green herb notes and a lively spritz.
  •  2010 Altos de la Finca ($35). From the highest vineyards on the estate, this creative blend of petite verdot and syrah for the extra money adds admirable intensity with deep black fruits, dusty oaky notes followed by a nicely dry finish.
I was quite pleased to find several values from Rioja, the most famous Spanish wine growing region in the southern part of the Basque country. First up are two from Bodegas Bilbainas, which was founded in 1859 and today is the largest estate in the Rioja Alta and fourth largest in all of Rioja.

 

The 2009 Vina Pomal ($12) takes its name from a 108-year-old vineyard, though the grapes are from 10- to 20-year-old vines. It is a fairly traditional Rioja of 100 percent Tempranillo (interestingly aged in 90% American oak). It is designated a Crianza, meaning it has been aged a minimum of one year, with six months in barrel. I liked the earthy red fruits of this straightforward but tasty wine, with its lively palate and lively mouthfeel.

 

Another vineyard lends its name to the 2011 Vina Zaco ($15). Also 100 percent Tempranillo from 10- to 20-year-old vines, it is best understood as a new style Rioja. And it’s an excellent style. Aged equally in American and French oak, it opens with bright cherry and raspberry. The palate has good weight and depth. It is quite full and flavorful, with a juicy finish and aftertaste.

The ancestors of the Bodegas Miguel Ángel Muro have been making wine since 1892 and growing wine grapes even longer. Miguel’s 2008 “Muro Bujanda” Rioja Crianza ($14) is just a fantastic value. Bright cherry and red currant aromas join roasted and lightly creamy notes. Similar flavor profile marks the intense fruit and touches of spice.

 

Founded over a century ago in the Rioja Alavesa by the grandfather of the current owner, Ruiz de Vinaspro makes wines from vines that range from 40-100 years of age. The 2007 Ruiz de Vinaspro Rioja ($15) is 100 percent tempranillo. It sports toasty blueberry and blackberry fruit. The palate is very dry mixing fresh tannins and woodsy herbs with lively wild berry fruit. A little closed at first, it opens up nicely with time.

 

Finally, just in time for summer, the 2010 Bodegas Sumarroca “Temps Flors” ($14) if a delightful, refreshing wine. Sumarroca is located in the Penedes region of Catalonia near Barcelona. The name translates to “time of the flowers” and the unique blend of xarel-lo Muscat and gewürztraminer mirrors that expression in the wine’s aroma (though it’s actually named after a local flower festival). This fruity, off-dry wine sports appealing fruity notes of lychee and tropical fruits balanced with good fruit intensity, perfect for quaffin

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KOSHER WINES FOR PASSOVER

Passover this year started the evening of March 25th and ends the evening of April 2nd. If you are still looking for kosher wine for your meals and ceremonies, look no further than Golan Heights Winery.

 

Founded in 1983, Golan Heights is owned by four kibbutzim (collective communities) and four moshavim (cooperative communities). From its home base in Galilee, the most northern and generally considered the best appellation in Israel, Golan Heights has from its beginning been a leader in creating and nurturing a fine wine culture in Israel.

 

If you are looking for an affordable, every day sort of wine, try the “Golan” or “Mount Hermon” brands. The 2011 Mount Hermon Red ($12) is a traditional Bordeaux-style blend and the 2011 Mount Hermon White ($12) combines sauvignon blanc and chardonnay, while the 2010 Golan Cabernet Sauvignon ($15) provides good varietal character. These are younger, more accessible wines that still offer good quality and flavor.

 

 

“Yarden” (Hebrew for the Jordan River, which divides the Golan Heights from Galilee) is the winery’s premier label and flagship brand benefiting from Golan’s finest grapes from the best vineyards. This is seen in the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon ($32), which is a bit pricey but is nicely done, with good fruit, full body, and some complexity, though a soft texture for a Cab. It is especially apparent in the 2008 Merlot ($25), which is just plain excellent and a great value. It is complex and full, with good concentration and structure and bright, focused fruit. As with the Cabernet, the alcohol – at 15 percent – is somewhat high for my preference.

Now for dessert. The 2008 “HeightsWine” (375ml, $27) is a type of “ice wine” manmade exclusively from gewürztraminer, where very ripe handpicked clusters are frozen in the winery. Then the whole clusters are pressed gently and the rich, concentrated juice is fermented very slowly over a number of months. This process yields a wine of intense aromatics and flavors of multiple white and orange fruits accented with spice and a luscious texture that would make a great dessert on its own.

For a different type of dessert wine, Yarden has released a new, Port-style wine, the 2008 “T2” ($50). It is made from two Portuguese varieties – Touriga Nacional and Tinta Cao – and fortified with brandy. The resulting wine is sweet; the red and black berry fruit is ripe; and the palate presents nice earth, spice, and chocolate notes. The texture is a bit rough but the wine compares well with most Portuguese Port.

 

Although there are only a few days left, there is still time to enjoy these wines for Passover. And they are of such quality they merit your consideration any time of the year.

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PEOPLE’S PALATE WINERY PROFILE: BONNY DOON VINEYARD

RANDALL GRAHM’S AND BONNY DOON’S QUEST FOR TERROIRISTIC SELF EXPRESSION BEARS FRUIT

 

Over the last few decades, the concept of terroir and its influence on the grapes grown in a given location and ultimately the wine from those grapes has been the subject of an enormous amount of discussion and as much debate. When I first saw mentions of the subject, it was mostly presented in terms of the geography and geology of the soil in which the grapevines are grown. Soon after, conversations incorporated the environmental conditions and climate. Then it was expanded to include factors influenced by humans – particularly the grape growing and winemaking.

 

Nowadays most commentators agree a “terroir driven wine” ultimately reflects the sum of the natural conditions of its place of origin and the human decisions in the vineyard and the cellar that attempt to express the unique characteristics of that location. Actually, beyond that it seems to me the extent to which a wine accomplishes that ideal is a result of a still poorly understood alchemy in which the wine is greater than the sum of its influences.

 

Enter Randall Grahm, a singular winemaking personality known as much for his gift at turning a phrase and clever prose incorporating literary and philosophical references. Mr. Grahm founded Bonny Doon winery thirty years ago and was one of the original “Rhone Rangers” (proponents of California wines made with grapes typical of France’s Rhone Valley). He has long been a proponent of “terroir driven” wines but to many seemed to have lost his way for a period when he focused more on growing his wine business (ultimately to nearly 500,000 cases a year).

 

Now, he has recommitted himself and his operation to making (actually I think he would prefer I say “shepherding” or “facilitating” or maybe “translating”) wines that reflect the vineyard source. A key decision in this regard he says is his decision to only use biodynamically farmed grapes and rely on indigenous yeasts for fermentation. There still are myriad practices employed in the cellar to achieve the style of wine Mr. Grahm prefers (which I would describe as more European – higher acidity, dryer fruit flavors, more earthy and herbal components) but he seems genuinely dedicated to decisions he thinks will produce wines optimally characteristic of their origin.

 

And the quality of the wines, at least based on my recent tasting, more than justify his approach. He still is focusing on Rhone varietals and now also “lesser-known varietals” like the Albarino reviewed below.

 

 

For the whites, the 2011 Albarino ($18) from the Central Coast vineyards Casa Grande near Soledad and Jesperson Ranch in San Louis Obispo is fun to drink. True to its varietal characteristics (the grape is mostly known for its wines from Spain and Portugal), this wine is fairly aromatic and quite lively in the mouth. I enjoyed its peach, melon and lime fruit, and a creamy note that adds weight.

 

The 2010 Le Cigare Blanc Beeswax Vineyard Arroyo Seco ($26) also is quite fragrant with floral, lemon, pear, and spice notes. This Rhône-style blend of roussanne and grenache blanc comes from a shielded from the cool Pacific winds by the Santa Lucia Mountains vineyard is medium-bodied, with a lush texture (possibly from the full malolactic fermentation) and intriguing mineral characteristics.

 

 

On to the reds, the 2010 Contra ($16) is described as an “Old Vine Field Blend” implying the vineyard sources are planted with multiple grapes and all the fruit is harvested and vinified together. About 2/3 carignane (old, nongrafted, dry-farmed, head-trained vines from Contra Costa County’s Gonsalves Vineyard) and 1/3 syrah (from Santa Maria Valley’s Bien Nacido Vineyard) with splashes of grenache, roussanne, grenache blanc, and mourvèdre, this is similar to a wine we might find from the south of France. Regardless, it is a fine value with mushroom aromas and nice ripe red and black fruits, a touch of licorice and spice followed by a medium body, supple texture and fresh acidity.

 

The 2009 Ca’ del Solo Nebbiolo Monterey County ($45) from the biodynamic Ca’ del Solo Estate Vineyard is rather pricey but it does deliver the goods. On the nose, there are pure red cherry, lightly floral and smoke notes, and maybe even a creamy quality. In the mouth, an underlying element of earth with a touch of fennel is the foundation for a juicy, lighter-bodied, brightly fruited wine.

 

The Chateauneuf-du-Pape style 2008 Le Cigare Volant ($38) has become somewhat iconic since its inception 25 years ago. It was one of the first such wines from one of the first Rhone Rangers. This vintage is 45 percent grenache (mostly from Ca’ del Solo estate) and 30 percent syrah (mostly from Bien Nacido vineyard), with smaller proportions of mourvedre, cinsault, and carignane. It shows tangy plum and hints of cherries and anise. I sense lightly dusty, woodsy notes in the nose. There is similar fruit in the broad mouth, while it closes with powdery, gravelly tannins.

The 2008 Le Cigare Volant Reserve en Bonbonne ($65) is a really interesting wine. It is a selection of the Cigare Volant separated to finish aging in 5-gallon glass bottles (called carboys or “bonbonnes”) rather than barrels or foudres. Possibly because of the nature of this container, particularly its reductive (oxygen free) nature, it does seem to have a bit more structure and taste a little fresher. Still, the bouquet presents evolved notes of dried berries and herbs with a pleasant suggestion of gravel. It is nicely concentrated and dry and finishes with noticeable tannic grip.

 

I would say these two wines are of roughly equal quality, although I preferred the Bonbonne. They’re just made in different styles. Maybe they should be thought of as different expressions of the vineyard sources as interpreted by the winemaker.

 

There also were three Syrahs in my tasting. One, the 2009 Le Pousseur Syrah ($25) was the only wine that didn’t impress me much. There was nothing wrong with its earthy, savory qualities and black cherry fruit. It just seemed rather one-dimensional.

 

In contrast, the 2008 Syrah Alamo Creek Vineyard ($35) had a lot going on. It opened with enticing red fruit. Then it followed with smoky dried herbs and a spice note that for some reason made me wonder if they came from the grape, the barrels in which the wine was aged, or the vineyard (which Grahm says is planted in an old riverbed in San Louis Obispo County). It had a similar flavor profile, with deep fruit, a touch of anise and savory, peppery, meaty flavors. This is all packaged in a solid structure, with distinct dryness, finishing with lively tannins.

 

Finally, the 2008 Syrah Bien Nacido Vineyard ($42) was the star of my tasting. From the cool climate, older vines and calcareous soils of Bien Nacido’s X-block, this is a fantastic wine. It was generous with its tart cherry and juicy berry fruit. Peppery, earthy and meaty elements emerged with time in the glass, all nicely balanced with fresh acidity. As with the best Syrahs, this wine deftly balanced power and elegance.

 

Based on the wines in my tasting, this partnership between the winemakers, wine growers, grapevines, and vineyards is bearing fine fruit and I look forward to following its further development.

 

 

NOTE: All photos obtained from Bonny Doon website.

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WEEKLY WINE RECOMMENDATIONS: MAKE YOUR VALENTINE’S DAY SPARKLE

Whether you are looking for a wine to impress your partner or just something good but moderately priced to enjoy together, your best bet this Valentine’s Day is a bottle of bubbly. Sparkling wine is ideal for special occasions and of course bubbly will make any occasion special. I’ve got some worthy suggestions to enliven your time together and I don’t mean just as a prelude to the evening but to enhance the enjoyment of your meal.

 

 

Any reason to drink Champagne is welcome and a classic like Nicolas Feuillatte’s Brut ($37) – 40% pinot noir, 40% pinot meunier, 20% chardonnay – with its refreshing notes of toasty apple and pear and a luscious structure is always a good choice. It might seem a bit cliché to recommend rosé but the Champagne Rosé ($49) – 60%pinot noir, 30% pinot meunier, 10% chardonnay – with its salmon-pink color, tangy red fruits and creamy texture is undeniable.

 

If you are looking for something sweet, the new “Sweet Sparklings” line from the Italian producer Caposaldo (known for its frizzante “Moscato”) is a good option. With three alternatives – each bottle is a different color, blend and level of sweetness but all are just $16 – these are sure to please the eye, palate and wallet.

 

  • Sweet Moscato (blue bottle) is 100% moscato bianco with succulent pear, peach and treademark spice aromas and flavors.
  • Sweet Pink Moscato (pink bottle) is 55% merlot, 45% moscato bianco emphasizes berries, with flowery and herbal notes.
  • Sweet Red Sparkling (red bottle) is a lightly sweet blend of 55% malvasia nera, 45% merlot is quite aromatic offering strong plum and red berry aromas and flavors.

 

If you want dry and modest price, try a Cava from Paul Cheneau. Owned by Giró Ribot, one of Spain’s preeminent family-owned Cava producers. I recently tasted five of the line that are worth your consideration. Like other Cava they feature indigenous Spanish grapes and are made using the traditional bottle fermented method. What distinguishes Paul Cheneau from other Cava is its French influence. A French winemaker created the brand and the wines do seem to reflect more of the elegance and balance generally expected of French sparklers.

 

The first three are 45% macabeo, 40% xarello and 15% parellada. For Valentine’s Day, the Lady of Spain Brut ($13) has to be your first choice, if for no other reason than its dramatic packaging showing a painting of a woman in a red dress on a yellow background. It is bottle aged at least 12 months and is fresh and fruity, with nice apple and citrus, yet well structured with a soft, fresh finish. If you can’t find that, though, don’t hesitate to pick up the Brut ($14), also bottle aged at least a year or the Brut Reserva ($16), bottle aged 24 months. The Brut is crisp and toasty with citrus fruit. The Brut Reserva is more elegant with succulent and vibrant apple, yet a smooth mouthfeel.

 

There also are two other good fizzy alternatives. The Brut Rosé ($15) is a blend of 85% trepat and 15% pinot noir. It is bottle aged up to two years and delivers nice red cherry in a lush but lively frame. For something a bit sweet, the Demi Sec ($15) – 45% Macabeo, 40% Xarello, 10% Chardonnay, 5% Parellada – is bottle aged two years and shows toasty notes and lively peach fruit.