Category: Wine

Now that temperatures have climbed into the 80s and 90s, I find myself turning to cool, refreshing white wines for relief from the heat and to accompany the lighter foods I also find myself craving. This first of several columns on white wines focuses on Sauvignon Blanc, listed in order of preference but all are recommended.

The grape is one of the parents (with cabernet franc) of the great red grape cabernet sauvignon. It is responsible for the Loire Valley wines of Sancerre and Pouilly Fume and, with semillon, the white Bordeaux of Graves and Sauternes. The grape also has found hospitable surroundings in New Zealand, South Africa, Australia, and Chile.

In California, winemakers are doing a better job these days of matching clones and vineyard sites and balancing the use of oak barrels and stainless steel in fermentation and aging to emphasize the grape’s zesty green, citrus sometimes tropical and fruits and distinctive herbaceousness. It’s typically quite aromatic, with crisp, refreshing acidity. These traits enable Sauvignon Blanc to pair nicely with the lighter foods of spring and summer.

The first wines I recommend here are mostly fermented and aged in stainless steel to emphasize the varietal characteristics, are lighter and recommended for their straightforward pleasure. Think of them as everyday patio sippers.

2013 Kendall-Jackson “Vintner’s Reserve” ($13). KJ keeps growing and acquiring new wineries but their original line continues to deliver quality at reasonable prices. This one’s succulent citrus and tropical fruit are accented with lemongrass finishing crisp.

2014 Decoy Sonoma County ($20). Baby brother to the Duckhorn below, vibrant herbal notes precede green and tropical fruits in a crisp but softer style.

2014 Pedroncelli East Side Vineyards ($14). From a family with a long history of winemaking the Dry Creek Valley, it’s juicy lime and tropical fruit drinks a little on the sweeter side, with fresh herb notes and a touch of hay to finish.

2014 Layer Cake California ($14). Touches of creamy oats compliment spicy grapefruit and lime for a juicy drink.

2014 Rodney Strong “Charlotte’s Home” ($17). Zesty lime and hints of hay and herbal notes join forces in a fresh, clean style.

2013 Lake Sonoma Sonoma Valley ($17). Nice grassy lemon and orange entry complimented with a touch of melon and richness from a dab of chardonnay.

2013 Wente “Louis Mel” ($15). Fruity tropical notes precede grassy lime fruit; drinks fresh and clean. From a family with five generations of experience growing grapes in the Livermore valley.

Sauvignon Blanc also can be a serious drink that goes exceptionally well with food. These wines in particular show character and complexity that are best enjoyed as accompaniments to food. They all share a winemaking approach that apportions fermentation and aging in stainless steel and at least some (mostly neutral) oak.

2013 Matanzas Creek Bennett Valley ($32). Wonderfully expressive with a broad range of citrus, melon, tropical fruits and lemongrass, this bracing drink, ends invitingly herbaceous.

2013 Duckhorn Napa Valley ($29). Crisp, tropical fruits join melon from 16% Semillon and richness from a significant use of oak, finishing with a touch of minerality.

2013 Atalon Napa Valley ($18). Fresh, lively grapefruit and lemon offset hay and herbal qualities resulting in a succulent drink.

2013 Grgich Hills Estate Napa Valley “Fume Blanc” ($30). Opens with juicy, bright lemon and melon qualities while a crisp, firm palate finishes with a spicy herb note.

2013 Matanzas Creek “Helena Bench” ($40). From Sonoma’s Knight’s Valley, this is strong on the herbal, green and spicy qualities of the grape with an assortment of citrus and tropical fruits wrapped in a tangy, yet rich finish.

2013 J. Lohr “Carol’s Vineyard” ($24). This Paso Robles winery also produced this Napa Valley wine of tasty citrus and light herbal notes; drinks crisp, fresh and tangy.

2013 Sonoma Loeb Sonoma Valley ($18). Spicy herbs and citrus with a slight chalky note; follows with melon and a spicy finish.

Dry pink wines, while appreciated in Europe for centuries, faced a schizophrenic reaction from Americans toward the end of the last century. As sweet “blush” wines like White Zinfandel became wildly popular, most dry wine drinkers decided all rosés were sweet and not worth their time.

Europeans have known for a long time the joy of drinking pale red wine. Whether Rosé (French), Rosato (Italian) or Rosado (Spanish), they are mostly dry. They show bright, fresh fruit aromas and flavors of strawberry, cherry, raspberry, cranberry or rhubarb. The best approximate the profile of their red siblings but drink more like white wines. Because of their freshness, pink drinks are always best enjoyed young; so look for the most recent vintages available.

Most wine producing countries now have gotten into the act with a wide variety of grapes and finally these wines seem to be gaining appreciation in this country. I my opinion, rosé should be inexpensive, no matter how good it is. With the exception of sparkling wine, it is less expensive to make and is made for early consumption. So, here I have focused on wines priced $20 or less. 

From France, the 2014 M. Chapoutier “Belleruche” Cotes-du-Rhone ($16) fashions grenache, syrah and cinsault into a brisk wine with strawberry and cherry notes. The nonvintage Lucien Albrecht Brut Rose Cremant d’Alsace ($22) adds bubbles to pinot noir for a crisp taste of strawberry; an affordable alternative to Champagne.

And France’s neighbors also are reliable sources. I have Italian recommendations that span the length of the boot. The 2014 Mezzacorona ($10) delivers creamy cherry from local lagrein grapes sustainably farmed at the foot of the Dolomiti (Italian Alps). One of Brunello di Montalcino’s best producers uses estate grown sangiovese to produce the brisk red berries of the 2014 Il Poggione “Brancato” ($18).

The 2013 Villa Gemma Cerasuolo D’Abruzzo ($20), made from the indigenous montepulciano grapes in the Abruzzo region south of Rome is bright and full of tangy strawberry and cherry. Sicily sources the 2014 Stemmari ($10) whose tart red fruit features sustainably farmed native nero d’Avola grapes.

The Iberian Peninsula also appreciates these wines. The light, tart cherry of the 2014 Vina Real ($14) from Rioja comes from 85% viura (white grape) and 15% tempranillo. Spain’s neighbor Portugal was well represented with the sharp raspberry of the 2014 Esporao “Defesa” ($15), a blend of aragonês and syrah.

Even South Africa is worth a look. The 2014 Goats do Roam “Fair Trade Goats Rose” ($10) as the bottle notes uses mostly shiraz grenache, gamay noir, and mourvedre grapes that are “fair trade certified sourced from fair trade producers” for a slightly sweet impression. The strawberry and cranberry fruit of the 2014 Mulderbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé ($14) is full bodied for a rose.

American producers increasingly are making nice rosés, too. I have been a fan of the Pedroncelli Dry Rose of Zinfandel as long as I can remember. Actually, Pedroncelli has been making this wine since 1958. A blend of free run and saignee juice, the 2014 “Signature Collection” Dry Creek Valley ($12) is easygoing with raspberry and spice.

From Washington, the 2014 Charles & Charles Rosé Columbia Valley ($14) is lively and flavorful, with pretty watermelon and creamy spice aromas and flavors, finishing off-dry. This collaboration between wine entrepreneur Charles Bieler and winekmaker Charles Smith (K Vintners) is a fanciful blend of mostly syrah, mourvedre, cabernet sauvignon, grenache, cinsault, and counoise.

And finally an unconventional recommendation. I typically crave a glass of Port in the cold of winter but I also have found an elegant, pure Tawny Port (they are best served slightly chilled anyway) can be quite enjoyable during warmer weather, too. The Warre’s 10 Year Old “Otima” ($30/500ml) offers an intriguing mix of fresh and dried cherry and orange, with hints of toffee, almonds and caramel. Balanced, intense and refined, it is an ideal cocktail.

(Featured Image: Courtesy Sea Smoke Vineyard)

Chardonnay has something like a 30-year record as America’s favorite white wine. Its deserved reputation for greatness (particularly the white wines of Burgundy) undoubtedly is at least partly responsible for that popularity. Another likely reason consumers have been so drawn to the wine is it can be made in different styles to appeal to different tastes and occasions. Regardless of style, Chardonnays typically offer ripe fruit flavors of citrus, apple, pear, or tropical, and sometimes melon or fig.

Many wineries attempt to emulate the richness and depth associated with Burgundy, the benchmark for the grape. It used to be common in California for such wineries to go to extremes employing full malolactic fermentation (converts sharper malic acid to richer lactic acid) and 100% fermentation and aging in new oak barrels. Such wines are rare today. But the wines below still use significant amounts of these to great effect, deftly walking the line between richness and freshness.

Two single vineyard wines from MacRostie the 2012 “Wildcat” ($38), from an intemperate location in the Sonoma Coast and 2012 “Sangiacomo” ($44), from a historic and prized vineyard in Carneros are rich and full-bodied wines with oak influences but still loads of pure fruit.

Talbott Vineyards has pioneered modern viticulture and winemaking in Monterey since 1982. First with the extreme mountaintop Diamond T Vineyard and then the flagship Sleepy Hollow Vineyard, its wines have built a reputation for power and intensity. These 2012 wines also display impressive balance. The 2012 “Sarah Case” ($52) is an elegant special selection of the best lots from the Sleepy Hollow Vineyard. “Diamond T” ($52) shows the vineyard’s signature minerality and bracing acidity. The “Audrey” ($75) is a complex special selection of the best lots from Diamond T. Impressively, all are bottled in screw caps!

Migration is a winery in the Duckhorn family dedicated to exploring the Burgundian varietals chardonnay and pinot noir as they are expressed in top California growing regions. From 2012 there is a lush Russian River Valley ($32) and rich, intense single vineyard wines from the Charles Heintz Vineyard Sonoma Coast ($55), the Searby Vineyard in Russian River Valley ($55), and Dierberg Vineyard in Santa Maria Valley ($55).

I also found the purity of the 2012 Sea Smoke “Streamside” Santa Rita Hills ($60) from estate grown fruit and the concentration of the 2012 Sonoma-Loeb “Envoy” ($38),  which benefits from Sangiacomo fruit, to be excellent.

I often get comments from readers that I don’t write enough about affordable, everyday wines. Usually described in the wine magazines as “good values,” these days that generally refers to wines that deliver good quality for $20 or less. But I know many readers wish that meant $10 or less. Well, inflation is a reality and while there are countless wines that provide correct varietal character, clean fruit and a sense of character for a reasonable price – my definition of “good value” – in my opinion it is extremely difficult find them at $10 or less.

Still, I kick off this column with a collection of just such wines. As with many value wines they carry a “California” appellation since they contain fruit from many areas of the state. Many other value wines will list a county appellation like Sonoma or Santa Barbara. Don’t expect fancy single vineyard expressions. Do expect tasty, inviting wines that you’ll swear are worth more than you paid for them.

 Oak Grove. Founded in 1999, Oak Grove is sort of like a European négociant in this case searching all over California to source their fruit. The white wines are typically light and refreshing. On the other hand, the red wines in my tasting – Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel, Shiraz, and Petite Sirah – are full flavored and easy drinking. All are 2013 “Family Reserve” wines and priced at $8. What Oak Grove has achieved here is remarkable at this price.

Wente Vineyards. Family owned since 1883 in the Livermore Valley, the fifth generation is continuing the tradition of good value everyday wines. Wente was a pioneer of Chardonnay in California and released the first varietally labeled Chardonnay in 1936. They apply that expertise to many other varietals, including these fine values.

• 2013 Morning Fog Chardonnay ($15)
• 2012 Southern Hills Cabernet Sauvignon ($18)
• 2013 Louis Mel Sauvignon Blanc ($15)
• 2011 Sandstone Merlot ($18)
• 2012 Riverbank Riesling ($15)

Murphy-Goode. Located in the Alexander Valley region, Murphy-Goode is a family-owned winery – twice. Founded 30 years ago by three friends, the winery now is part of Jackson Family Wines, while the original families are still involved. Another producer of a wide range of wines, for the purposes of this column the value wines carry a California appellation. These include a solid 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon ($15), an inviting 2012 Merlot ($15), a silky 2013 Pinot Noir ($15), a fresh 2013 Pinot Grigio ($13), and a fruitful 2013 Chardonnay ($14).

Also look for the 2012 Homefront Red ($15), a nice six varietal blend whose sales benefit Operation Homefront, providing emergency and other financial assistance to the families of service members and wounded warriors.

Rodney Strong Vineyards. Founded in 1959 by Broadway dancer Rodney Strong and owned by Tom Klein since 1989, the winery has had the same winemaker in Rick Sayre since 1979. Throughout all this time, the winery has built its reputation on delivering quality and value at all price levels. This includes its Sonoma County designated wines – a characterful 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon ($20), a lush 2012 Merlot ($20), and a surprisingly complex 2013 Chardonnay ($17).

Renwood. This longtime Amador County winery has built a well-deserved reputation for Zinfandel but also can be a good source of affordable wines made from Rhone and Italian varieties. The value Zinfandels include the jammy, spicy 2012 “Premier Old Vine” Amador County ($20) and the briary, red fruited 2012 California ($15). The 2012 Clarion Red Blend ($20) combines equal parts zinfandel, petite syiah, syrah and marsanne into a seductive whole.

Byron. One of the viticultural pioneers of Santa Barbara County having planted the first vineyard to vinifera grapes in 1964, Byron has been in the forefront of winemaking achievement in the area ever since. The 2012 Pinot Noir Santa Barbara County ($19) and 2013 Chardonnay Santa Barbara County ($16) are fine introductions to the region.

Every winemaker says they believe “wine is made in the vineyard.” They talk about terroir and vineyard expression but that depends on decisions made by the winemaker in the cellar. Winemakers, whether they admit it or not, generally try to achieve a certain style.

California Cabernet Sauvignon is a good example of this. California Cabernet – especially from the Napa Valley – has become something of a phenomenon in recent decades with a general style of wine that emphasizes richness and concentration. Of course there are variations on the theme. Though, whether the wine is blended from multiple sources or a single vineyard, this style is recognizable in pronounced fruit, lavish oak (much of it new); a full body, supple texture, and refined tannins. Ideally, all this results in a wine that is enticing to drink now but can be aged and enjoyed for many years.

Duckhorn Vineyards has a 35-year history of producing what could be described as “quintessentially Napa Valley Cabernet.” Over the years, their portfolio has grown to include regional, appellation and single vineyard bottlings and has acquired a dedicated following. In 2011, Duckhorn successfully pulls off this style at all levels. The 2011 Napa Valley – the lowest priced offering at $60 – wraps sweet oak around juicy red fruit finishing with moderate but ample tannins.

The 2011 Rutherford Appellation ($95) displays more up front berry and currant fruit while the appellation’s signature dusty earth sensation melds well with strong tannins structured to evolve over time. The 2011 Monitor Ledge ($95) ups the ante with more intense fruit including a good 25% dose of merlot) balanced with 85% new oak and tough but manageable tannins. An intense drink now, it should develop some elegance and complexity over time.

But not everyone in Napa has jumped on the bandwagon. For a good style contrast look to the 2011 Grgich Hills Napa Valley Estate Grown ($60). Grgich Hills is known for producing wines in what generally is described as an “Old World” style. More like traditional Bordeaux, there is less of an emphasis on assertive fruit and more on lively acidity and firm structure. This is still Napa, so there is a sense of concentrated red fruits, but the Old World style asserts itself with stronger hints of earth and dried herbs. This certified organic and biodynamic wine is quite dry and should reward patience, as these wines typically evolve intriguing savory qualities.

Many wineries try to strike a balance between the two styles. The three below do a good job of combining the ripeness of California fruit with the nuances of Bordeaux. Basically, that means neither the fruit nor the oak hit you over the head. Instead, they join together to caress your palate. A good example is the 2012 Atalon Napa Valley ($35). There is plenty of red and black fruitbut also noticeable earth and herbal notes. The tannins are fairly soft, inviting early consumption. It finishes on a slightly (pleasantly) bitter note that should help it pair well with a variety of foods.

With the 2012 Sequoia Grove Napa Valley ($38) 11% cabernet franc and 10% merlot soften and round out the wine. Combined with firm acidity and intense fruit, we have what could be called a California expression of the Bordeaux style.

The 2011 Freemark Abbey Napa Valley ($44) – from one of Napa Valley’s oldest wine properties, having been established in 1886 – finds this new/old balance more through blending. It’s only 76 percent cabernet sauvignon with 18 percent merlot and dollops of cabernet franc, petite verdot and malbec. There is still plenty of lively Napa fruit, touches of creamy oak and fairly firm tannins. But none of these overwhelm. Instead, they compliment to achieve a seamless whole.

Sonoma County is the other California Cabernet powerhouse, especially with vineyards from Alexander, Sonoma and Dry Creek valleys.

The 2012 Rodney Strong Alexander Valley ($28) to my palate falls more into the New World” style. This bottling continues to be one of the best Cabernet values around. Its extravagant black fruits and toasty oak make for a fairly full-bodied, complex wine finishing with refined tannins. This enables it to entice the drinker into early consumption but also tempt you to wait a few years to see how it develops.

Another one of the better values in this price range, the 2012 Kendall-Jackson Sonoma County “Grand Reserve” ($30) even shows more woodsy, spicy complexity than one would expect to take the drinking experience beyond the wholly enjoyable berry fruit.

The 2011 Arrowood Sonoma County ($30) offering is mostly Sonoma Valley fruit with some Alexander Valley. It strikes a nice compromise (as in successfully melding different characteristics) between bright red fruit, fresh tannins and soft texture to achieve a result that encourages current consumption.

Whether you prefer wines with deep, jammy fruit and opulent oak or wines with more reserved fruit but a more complex array of flavor nuances. Or you like big, tannic monsters or wines with polish and finesse. This column hopefully has demonstrated there are outstanding California Cabernet Sauvignons that can accomplish both.

As I wrote recently, Paso Robles (“passage of the oaks”) arguably is the most interesting wine region in California, which makes it one of the most interesting wine regions in the world. One of the most appealing elements is that it isn’t just about, say good Cabernet Sauvignon, though there is plenty of that. It’s that so many less familiar taste experiences await you – including Zinfandel and a wide variety of Rhône-style wines.  While there are many good wines priced $15 and under, even the (increasingly more common) higher priced wines represent better values than comparable wines from better-known regions.Here is a rundown from my recent tastings.

J. Lohr. Jerry Lohr was a pioneer of modern Central Coast winegrowing and is one of the producers most responsible for the emergence of Paso Robles as a world-class wine region. Today, J. Lohr is one of the largest growers and wineries in the area producing over three-dozen different wines in a range of price categories.

I recently tasted several from the Rhône-inspired “Gesture” portfolio: a complex and spicy 2012 Syrah ($30), a ripe and woodsy 2012 Mourvèdre ($30), a crisp and creamy 2013 RVG (roussanne, viognier, grenache blanc, $30), a rich and juicy 2013 Viognier ($25), and a light, refreshing 2013 Grenache Rosé ($18).

Austin Hope. The Hope family has been farming Paso for nearly 40 years. Austin has lead the family’s venture into winemaking and produces a variety of wines under several different labels but the best are released under his own. The elegant and welcoming 2011 Grenache ($42), and powerful and succulent 2011 Syrah ($42) remind me why I have long been a fan.

Tablas Creek. In 1989, importer Robert Haas and the Perrin family of Château Beaucastel decided Paso Robles was the ideal place for their joint venture. They produce almost exclusively Rhône-style wines from organic, estate grown grapes. At all levels the wines are distinctive and represent excellent values.

Esprit de Tablas and Esprit de Tablas Blanc are the signature wines. They can rightly be called California versions of Château Beaucastel. The vines were propagated from cuttings from Beaucastel and like Beaucastel the red blend (2012, $55) emphasizes mourvèdre and the white blend (2012, $45) emphasizes roussanne.

The Côtes de Tablas tier was not represented in my tasting but can be described as a California version of good Cotes du Rhône. Similarly, the Patelin de Tablas line seems modeled after the lesser-known southern Rhône regions of Côtes du Ventoux (red) and Côtes du Luberon (white). Patelin de Tablas (2012, $20) is based on syrah; Patelin de Tablas Blanc (2013, $20) is based on grenache blanc. Tablas Creek also excels with varietal wines. I tasted two and both were very good: a bright and delicate 2012 Grenache ($40) and a lush and savory 2012 Roussanne ($35).

Paso Robles has become so highly regarded others want in on the act, like the wineries below.

Rabble Wine Company. Rob Murray, a grower for many years recently got into winemaking and looked to Paso Robles with two brands. Tooth & Nail deftly blends Rhône and Bordeaux varietals: cabernet sauvignon, syrah, petite sirah and malbec for “The Possessor” (2012, $27) and malbec and syrah for “The Fiend” (2012, $27). Force of Nature focuses more on varietals, like the concentrated and woodsy 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon ($23) and the lush, enticing 2013 Zinfandel ($23). Also, I don’t normally comment on labels but all of the Force of Nature labels but, as you can see here with the Zinfandel, Force of Nature’s labels are remarkable.

Halter Ranch. Crafting 100% estate-grown wines that are sustainably farmed, Halter Ranch also produces several Rhône and Bordeaux inspired wines worth seeking out. The 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon ($32) was well made and satisfying.

Niner Estates. This winery has been producing wines made from sustainably grown estate grapes in its LEED Certified winery since the early 2000s. My tasting showcased a deeply fruited and focused 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Bootjack Ranch ($35), a velvety, earthy 2012 Malbec ($30) and an intense, savory and spicy 2012 Syrah ($30).

Clayhouse. Based in Washington State, the Middleton family established Clayhouse ten years ago. I tasted two really good values, both from the family’s Estate Red Cedar Vineyard: a nicely balanced, fruit forward 2012 Malbec ($14) and a 2012 Syrah ($14) loaded with berry fruit.

And these are just the beginning. With over 200 wineries and now 11 AVAs (geographically delineated American Viticultural Areas), not to mention numerous artisan food producers, a growing number of excellent restaurants and Firestone Walker brewery (when you need a break from all that great wine), Paso Robles is also a fantastic wine travel destination.

Whether you drink them with dessert, as dessert, or just to sip and and relax, sweet wines are appropriate throughout the year.  In this column, I give you some considerations for sweet wines to top your evening or anytime you desire a delicious dessert wine).

My first choice is Port. Sweet and red! And this time of year I just can’t resist it. The only challenge is there are a variety of styles, so it can be difficult deciding which to buy. This Portuguese elixir is a different sort of sweet wine. High alcohol (fortified with brandy) and bursting with red and black fruit flavors, it is powerful, even in styles that fashion a sense of elegance. The richness, intensity and natural sweetness balanced with refreshing tannin and finished with an alcoholic kick always warm my soul.

To many, the intensity and power of Vintage Port make it the most prized but it also usually is the most expensive approaching and sometimes exceeding $100 per bottle. A more affordable place to start is with a Ruby Port, the youngest and most accessible style. It is blended from several different vintages and offers fresh, straightforward, grapey fruit that is ready to drink upon release. Graham’s “Six Grapes” Reserve ($24) is one of the classics with its deep black fruits and aromas of ripe plums and dark cherries.

Or take a step up for Graham’s Six Grapes “Special Old Vines Edition” ($42), a very special elaboration of the style produced to commemorate 100 years of the Six Grapes emblem. It is more expensive but it’s pure cherry and berry flavors are concentrated yet fresh with a luscious     texture and hints of chocolate.

Some Port aficionados consider Tawny Port – known less for power and concentration than for complexity, purity and finesse – to be the ultimate expression of Port. Tawny Ports also marry several vintages but spend extensive time in casks, for periods ranging from ten to forty years.

While 20, 30 and 40 Year Old Tawnies are ethereal taste experiences; they also can cost from $50 to more than $100. For the best introduction to the style, 10-Year-Old Tawnies are the most accessible and affordable choice. I’ve been enjoying the Graham’s 10 Year Old ($36), which presents dried fruit notes (cherry and orange) that are still pure and vibrant, balanced with almonds, brown spices, and a touch of caramel.

Although some experiment with Port during a meal, it is best enjoyed slightly chilled at the end of the meal, either with dessert, cheese, dark chocolate or as dessert itself.

For those of you who prefer the lighter touch, though still quite rich nature of a white dessert wine, I suggest an Austrian from Kracher Wienlaubenhof. In recent years, Austria has drawn a lot of attention for its challengingly named but fresh, spicy and weighty Grüner Veltliner. What many people may not realize is that, like Germany, Austria produces some amazing sweet wines.

They typically also are labeled according to the same ripeness and sweetness levels as are German wines. And Kracher is the most famous name in Austrian wine.  A family-owned winery now on its third generation, Kracher is especially renowned for its dessert wines. Here are three special ones from the top three tiers that actually are reasonably priced.

As you go up this list of wines, they get sweeter, deeper and richer, increasingly complex and concentrated, potentially even influenced by the presence of botrytis. Again, these are enjoyed best with dessert or on their own but they actually can work well with spicy foods.

• 2011 Auslese Cuvée ($23, 375ml) 60% chardonnay, 40% welschriesling (unrelated to
  ermany’s riesling). A late harvest selection with bright and crisp peach, honey and lemon.

• 2011 Beerenauslese Cuvée ($34, 375ml) 60% welschriesling, 40% chardonnay. From individually selected berries, this one switches the grape ratio with the result of stronger honey notes, spice, balancing acidity.

• NV Trockenbeerenauslese ($28, 187ml) 55% welschriesling, 40% chardonnay, 5% traminer. From grapes so super ripe they are basically raisins with just a few drops per berry. They produce a wine so rich and lush with apricot and cream it is best drunk alone and savored in small doses.

Again, these wines are enjoyed best with dessert or cheese or on their own but they actually can work well with spicy foods. Enjoy!

When it comes to wine, South America is on the move.

Argentina has made a big splash with Malbec; Chile has made a lesser but still significant impact with Carmenere; and now Uruguay is poised to impress with Tannat. Tannat? You ask. Isn’t that a resident of an apartment building?

Actually, it is a good but underappreciated red wine grape. Tannat is best known as the principal red grape of the Madiran region in southwest France near the Pyrénées. In Madiran, wines made with tannat (named for its high tannin content) tend toward a more rustic profile – robust, tough, dark, dense, and tannic – with flavors of raspberry and benefitting from several years of aging.

In researching this column, I was impressed to find Uruguay is the fourth-largest wine-producing country in South America, behind Chile, Argentina, and Brazil. It is located on the Atlantic coast between Brazil to the north and Argentina to the south. Although wine grapes have been grown there for over 250 years, commercial winemaking dates to the 1870s with the arrival of Spanish immigrants. Thus, the introduction of tannat is attributed to Basque immigrants, as the grape is believed to have originated in northern Spain. In addition to tannat, mostly French grapes like cabernet sauvignon, merlot, sauvignon blanc, and viognier are grown. Also gaining favor among the whites is the Spanish grape albariño.

In contrast to Argentina and Chile, most Uruguayan wine is consumed by the county’s 3.5 million residents. And something like 90 percent of the grapes for that wine is grown in vineyards in the south of the country not far from the capital Montevideo and along the coast in the Canelones, Montevideo, Colonia, Maldonado, Florida and San Jose departments. The most important viticultural region is Canelones, a short drive from Montevideo (which also makes it convenient for tourists) but notable wineries are springing up inland to the west and east along the coast, including Carmelo, near the border with Argentina, and outside the resort town of Punta del Este on the coast.

And the over 200 wineries are almost exclusively small, family-owned producers. I’m told that Uruguay’s total annual production of 10 million cases is less than that of a single large producer in Chile or Argentina.

Similar to what has happened with malbec in Argentina, Uruguayan wineries’ use of more modern techniques in the vineyard and the cellar work to soften tannat’s harsher tendencies. Also, Uruguay’s warmer conditions (moderated by its coastal, maritime climate) encourage a longer growing season enabling the grape to ripen more reliably. The result typically is still quite intense and concentrated but more stylish, fresh and vibrant and can be enjoyed immediately upon release. I think I also detected savory qualities and pleasant bitterness.

The six Tannats in this tasting are reviewed in alphabetical order. Prices are estimates.

2012 Artesana Tannat ($16). American-owned and founded in 2007 in the Las Brujas district of Canelones, Artesana’s wines are made by its two women winemakers from its sustainably farmed, estate grown grapes. With twelve months in French and American oak, this wine shows strong aromas and concentrated flavors of dark plum, with hints of toasty oak, dusty and meaty notes, and brusque tannins.

2012 Bodega Garzón “Vartietales” ($16). named after the nearby town of Garzon in the Maldonado department about eleven miles from the ocean and the resort of Punta del Este, Bodega Garzón is a dramatic project including nut and olive groves, along with numerous outdoor activities. They are building what the winery says will be the first LEED-certified winery outside of North America. The wine is earthy with dark plum, graphite and charred notes on the nose. It’s riper with powdery tannins and a refined palate.

2013 Gimenez Mendez Alta Reserva ($28). This 75-year-old family winery owns vineyards in four areas of Canelones. This one comes from Las Brujas and presents smoke, meat, spice and racy prune in the nose followed by ripe fruit and a chewy texture on the palate.

2013 “Pueblo del Sol” Reserva ($16). From Familia Deicas, in the Juanico district of the Canelones department, the winery was founded in 1830 has become a leader in the Uruguayan wine industry. This is a rather straightforward but pleasing mix of prune, raisin fruit with accents of meat and chalk. The palate is smooth and fresh.

2013 “Don Prospero” Tannat Malbec ($20). The 105-year-old Pizzorno Family Estate in Canelones produced this 50/50 estate bottled blend showing ripe dark fruits with smoke and herbs. It drinks lively and juicy.

2011 Reinaldo de Lucca Reserve ($24). Located in the El Colorado district of the Canelones department, this is a family whose heritage reaches to Piemonte in Italy. The 75-year-old De Lucca is distinguished by its emphasis on sustainable practices. This wine is quite ripe, sporting a roasted and earthy quality with bright cherry fruit and a firm structure.

Clearly, Uruguay is set to emerge as a world-class wine and food destination. Foreign investment is funding exciting new wine projects, and some wineries are hiring high-profile consultants, such as Paul Hobbs, who is working for Juanico, Michel Rolland (Narbona) and Alberto Antonini (Garzon).

The wines are improving, the coastline is inviting and I keep reading the grass-fed beef is unparalleled (of course, certain Colorado ranchers might have something to say about that!). And the nation is taking another lesson from Argentina and more proactively promoting its wines, especially through Wines of Uruguay (who supplied the wines for this tasting). So expect better availability soon.

And Uruguay is forward looking beyond wine. Last year, The Economist named Uruguay Country of the Year, partly for legalizing same-sex marriage and partly for becoming the first country to legalize the production and the sale of marijuana, saying that those actions have “increased the global sum of human happiness at no financial cost.”

With improving quality and increasing promotion, especially through Wines of Uruguay (who supplied the wines for this tasting), Uruguayan wine is set to emerge on the international stage. Check it out!