Category: Wine

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A CORNUCOPIA OF INTERNATIONAL WINES FOR YOUR HOLIDAY GATHERINGS, PART 3

White Wines

 

This time of year – truthfully all year long – I like to try a wide variety of wines. Certainly Chardonnay remains the most popular wine among consumers. And if you are looking for ideas for the holidays, I previously reviewed a large number of Chardonnays here.

For our purposes in this column, the focus is mostly on the so-called “aromatic whites” – Riesling, Pinot Grigio, and Sauvignon Blanc – along with a mélange of international varieties. Most of the delightful wines in this column are crisp, fruity, and fragrant. For generally reasonable prices, these wines also provide a refreshing combination of acidity and in many cases moderate alcohol – perfect for parties and the variety of foods available during the holidays.

 

Riesling. My favorite white wine, a good Riesling is enticingly aromatic with bracing acidity and typically green apple, citrus and stone fruit flavors. Most intriguing, there often is a distinctive mineral component. The wines below provide at least some sweetness, unless otherwise indicated.

 

2012 Thomas Schmitt Private Collection Spatlese ($16). Nice green apple with hints of steel and stone. Light and soft and pretty with a good balance of sweetness and acidity.

 

2012 Thomas Schmitt Private Collection Kabinet ($14). Similar to the Spatlese but lighter and less sweet; nice sipper and versatile.

 

2012 Beast “Sphinx” Wallula Vineyard Columbia Valley ($25). From the U.S., I especially enjoy Washington State Riesling these days. This one, made with grapes from a biodynamically farmed vineyard, is aromatic, flavorful and dry – and excellent.

 

2010 Brooks “Ara” Willamette Valley ($25). Another very dry wine, the Ara is nicely citrusy and sports bracing acidity.

 

Other good options:

 

  • 2012 J.Lohr Estates Bay Mist White Riesling ($10)
  • 2012 Martin & Weyrich “Allegro” Riesling ($12)
  • 2012 Fess Parker Riesling Santa Barbara County ($14)
  • 2012 Kendall-Jackson “Vintner’s Reserve” Riesling Monterey County ($13)
  • 2011 Woodbridge (by Robert Mondavi) Riesling ($8)

 

Pinot Gris/Grigio. Pinot Gris, the so-called “grey pinot,” reaches its epitome in Alsace and can be quite fine in Oregon but I found the 2011 La Crema Pinot Gris Monterey County ($20) to be impressive in its own right. Citrus, lime and honeydew present with a body of some weight and richness of texture.

 

Pinot Grigio, usually indicating the lighter Italian style, is best known among Americans. Typically, it tends to fresh citrus and melon carried in a brisk, yet easygoing frame. The following wines, listed in order of preference, all are worth trying:

 

  • 2012 Franz Keller Schwarzer Adler ($25)
  • 2011 Francis Coppola “Diamond Collection” ($16)
  • 2012 Oak Grove California ($8)
  • 2012 Pepi California ($10)
  • 2012 McManis California ($10)
  • 2011 Murphy-Goode California ($13)
  • NV Camelot California ($7)

 

Sauvignon Blanc. The brisk acidity, zesty white and green fruits (often grapefruit or gooseberry) and distinctive herbaceousness of Sauvignon Blanc enable this wine to pair with multiple foods. The 2012 Matua Valley Estate Series Paretai Marlborough ($17) was my favorite of this group for its green apple, grapefruit, citrus, and strong green herb notes. It is fairly full and nicely concentrated, yet balanced. The following also are enjoyable:

 

  • 2013 Matua Valley Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough ($12)
  • 2012 Pepi California ($10)
  • 2012 Tin Roof California ($10)
  • 2012 Oak Grove California ($8)

 

Pinot Blanc. A wine that often is mistaken for Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc shows its own charms, as with these two. The 2012 Franz Keller Schwarzer Adler ($25) reveals nice stone fruits and intriguing “wet rocks” minerality. The 2010 Brooks “Runaway White” ($15), a blend of two Oregon vineyards, has nice apple and citrus in a juicy and lively frame.

 

Blends. A winery’s multi-varietal blend also can be a fun alternative. Instead of just the character of one variety, these give you a chance to experience the how different aromas and flavors can come together to make a whole that is better than the sum of its parts. Two eminently affordable examples of this include the 2012 HandCraft “Inspiration White” ($13). This is a vibrant, aromatic blend of riesling, sauvignon blanc, viognier, moscato and pinot grigio. Even more affordable is the 2012 Smoking Loon “White Loonatic” ($8), a fruit-forward, approachable blend of viognier, chardonnay, muscat, and symphony.

 

Spain. The Rueda region in north central Spain not far from the great Ribera del Duero region has long been considered the source of Spain’s favorite white wines. Verdejo, the indigenous varietal of the region, produces wines with a nice balance of minerality and acidity. The crisp Verdejo wines of Rueda carry a hint of herbs with notes tropical and stone fruit. The 2012 Oro de Castilla Verdejo ($12) emphasizes tight citrus, lime and steely notes, while the 2012 12 Linajes Verdejo ($12) shows similar citrus but also apple, fennel and savory notes.

 

Viognier. One of three esteemed white Rhone varietals – along with Roussanne and Marsanne – Viognier can offer the richness of Chardonnay with exotic, tropical fruits. This is typically a pretty expensive wine but the 2012 McManis ($11) and 2012 Oak Grove ($8) both offer a sense of that experience for very affordable prices.

 

Other Whites. I don’t want to close without turning you on to a few fine southern European whites to add some variety to your holiday palates.

 

  • 2012 Rocca Sveva Soave Classico ($17), citrus – oranges and lemons – and stone fruit in a light but pleasing sweet/tart drink
  • 2012 Monte Velho White Alentejano ($10), this light blend of native roupeiro, antao vaz, and perrum varieties reminds me of fruit salad with touches of caramel and butterscotch
  • NV Memoro Vino Bianco D’italia ($10), intriguing blend of French and Italian grapes  – viognier, chardonnay, vermentino, and pecorino – fun for sipping
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A CORNUCOPIA OF INTERNATIONAL WINES FOR YOUR HOLIDAY GATHERINGS, PART 2

Sweet Wines

 

I love Porto, period. Yes, it’s sweet, often very sweet. And it’s red! And this time of year I just can’t resist it. There are a variety of styles, so it can be confusing trying to decide which to buy. A good place to start is with a Ruby Port, the youngest and most accessible Port. Aged three years in large vats to retain freshness, expect straightforward, grapey fruit. Fonseca Bin No. 27 ($21) – quite intense with lively red fruits and good structure – is a fine representative of the type.


Late Bottled Vintage Port is made from good wines of a single year that didn’t quite make the cut for Vintage Port. But, after aging four to six years, it is ready to drink upon release and offers a sense of why Vintage Porto is so prized by connoisseurs. The 2007 Taylor Fladgate Late Bottled Vintage Porto ($22) is notable for its full body and blackberry fruit balanced with good acidity and soft tannins.


Tawny Port is known less for power and concentration than for complexity, purity of fruit and finesse. Tawnies are blended wines and the best indicate an average age. Expect admirable balance, elegance and complexity. The Taylor Fladgate 10 Year Old Tawny Porto ($35) presents pure vibrant fruit, hints of almonds, and fine balance.

 

There also are some interesting Port-style wines being produced in California. One I enjoyed recently is the 2008 Pedroncelli Four Grapes Port ($20). While many California producers make their Port-style wine using zinfandel, this wine uses the traditional Portuguese grapes Tinta Madera, Tinta Cao, Souzao, and Touriga Nacional. A little on the rustic side, it nicely conjures the character of a Ruby Port.

 

I also am aware many people this time of year host large holiday parties and, in an effort to offer a variety of wine drinking options to appeal to all their guests, look for sweet accessible wines for uncritical drinking. Here’s where wines like those from Sequin ($12) come in handy. Sweet and “delicately bubbled,” these wines can be sipped on their own or serve as a base for wine cocktails. There is a Rose, Pinot Grigio and Moscato.

 

Speaking of Moscato, if you like the sweet but not the bubbles, Smoking Loon’s 2012 “Blue Loon” Moscato ($8) might be right for you. It’s soft, fruity but not cloying with nice aromas and flavors reminiscent of fruit salad.

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A CORNUCOPIA OF INTERNATIONAL WINES FOR YOUR HOLIDAY GATHERINGS, PART 1

 

With all its holidays – Hannukah, Christmas, Kwanzaa, New Year’s Eve (at least) – and the associated company parties, family gatherings, and sundry holiday parties, the month of December may be the biggest month of the year for wine drinking opportunities. This situation presents consumers with opportunities and challenges – obviously many opportunities to drink various wines but equally as many challenges in deciding which wines to drink. With this in mind, I have organized this column basically as a shopping list to assist you in making those decisions.

 

First Up:Bubbly

 

More than any other wine, this time of year I look to sparkling wine as my first choice – whether it’s called Champagne, Cremant, Sekt, Prosecco, Cava, Spumante, or something else – and certainly it’s the prime choice for celebrations of all types. Of course, Champagne sets the standard an NV Brut is the most widely enjoyed style.  Really good choice here is the Laurent-Perrier NV Brut ($40) Its high proportion of chardonnay (50%) makes for a lively, fresh and elegant sparkler.

From Italy, Prosecco has achieved significant popularity in recent years and the Mionetto NV Brut Treviso ($14) is a solid example – fresh, pure and fruity. Another good choice is the Piccini NV Extra Dry ($16), which, despite its designation, actually reveals a bit of residual sugar. But it is hard for me to pass up the “Metodo Classico” of Ferrari, which grows it grapes on hillside vineyards in the foothills of the Alps not far from Lake Garda and makes it bubble using the Champagne Method. Their 2006 Ferrari Perlé ($35) – 100% chardonnay and aged five years – is elegant and refined.

And how about a “Methode Traditionelle” Sekt from Germany? I heartily recommend the 2008 Raumland Blanc de Noirs Vintage Brut Cuvee Marie-Louise ($45). A great surprise, this wine shows a lot of verve and esteemed character of 100% chardonnay.

Of course, there also are several excellent sparkling options from California. One of my favorite producers these days is Letitia in the Arroyo Grande Valley. The Laetitia NV Brut Cuvee ($25) is an enticing blend of pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot blanc, while the 2009 Laetitia Brut Rosé ($30) shows the enticing fruit and lush body of its pinot noir/chardonnay blend. If price is a major consideration, the Barefoot Bubbly line of sparklers always presents good values. At $10 a bottle, whether its for a cocktail party, toasting the New Year, or mimosas for a holiday brunch, Barefoot is the right bubbly.

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RIDGE LYTTON SPRINGS, THE EPITOME OF ZINFANDEL

FROM MY CELLAR:

 

Zinfandel is a curiously underappreciated variety. Forty years after its renaissance I still find myself having to explain to family, friends and acquaintances what it is, let alone just how great it can be. Even among my wine loving associates I am one of the few to list it among my favorite varieties.

 

So, I have made it part of my mission as a wine writer to sing its praises and have done so for all of the twenty years I have been writing about wine. I recently tasted more examples of what the grape can produce in California. I have a post on the website reviewing some impressive Zinfandel wines I tasted recently. In this post, I turn you on to the pleasures of the 2004 Ridge Vineyards “Lytton Springs” ($33 upon release in 2006).

 

It is worth noting that although the wine is 79% Zinfandel, 18% Petite Sirah, and 3% Carignane, the label focuses the vineyard. This is a common practice at Ridge, as CEO/Winemaker Paul Draper (who has been at Ridge over fifty years and is recognized as one of the world’s great winemakers) is known for his emphasis on site-specific wines. And Lytton Springs is not just a great zinfandel vineyard; it has been identified as one of the great vineyards in the world. We shouldn’t be surprised it is located in the Dry Creek Valley, which is well known as one of the most hospitable places to grow zinfandel.

Lytton Springs lies just north and west of Healdsburg on benchland and rolling hills. It benefits from foggy mornings followed by by warm, sunny afternoons and cool evenings. This and the not particularly fertile gravelly clay soils ensure that the grapes ripen slowly and achieve a balance that often proves elusive in other zinfandel vineyards.

 

Ridge had purchased Lytton Springs grapes beginning in 1972; then over the years took opportunities to buy various blocks until by 1995 they owned the complete estate including the winery. Sustainable and organic practices are followed in the vineyard and the winery. For instance, the new winery emphasizes energy conservation, solar energy, and environmentally sustainable construction materials.

 

In the vineyard, Lytton Springs supports 100 plus-year-old zinfandel vines planted in a “field blend” with petite sirah, carignane, mataro (also known as mourvèdre), and grenache. Draper’s and Ridge Vice President of Winemaking-Lytton Springs John Olney’s respect for the site is evident in the sustainable farming practices and moving it toward organic certification. This respect also means they maintain the field blend and focus on harvesting the grapes at optimal ripeness (too many wineries today harvest overripe grapes) to achieve wines that balance fruit and soil characteristics with manageable tannins and alcohol. Although Zinfandel can reach extremely high alcohol, this 2004 wine came in at an elevated but reasonable 14.5%.

 

The 2004 Lytton Springs is a beacon of what the zinfandel grape can achieve when grown in the right place and crafted by the right hands. Each variety and each lot were fermented separately with the natural yeast and the wine was allowed to undergo natural malolactic fermentation. After light egg white fining, it was aged on the lees and spent thirteen months in air-dried American oak.

Even at nine years of age the wine was still fresh and vibrant when I tasted it. Its aromas opened with pure brambly blackberry, accented with caramelized wood notes and hints of stone, and finished with a whiff of black pepper. Its beautiful, sweet tasting fruit was delivered in an excellently firm structure and a seamless texture that allowed the wine to slide deftly across my palate. The wine finished full and rich, with still some tannin. It easily could have kept for a few more years. After time in the glass, hints of black licorice emerged in the nose and especially the mouth.

 

I have been drinking Lytton Springs since the 1970’s (and every vintage since 1990) and the great balance of varietal fruit and terroir this 2004 delivered in an elegant, yet concentrated wine makes this one of my favorite Lytton Springs.

 

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THE INFINITE MONKEY THEOREM: URBAN WINERY SETS THE STANDARD FOR COLORADO WINE

The Infinite Monkey Theorem (IMT) is an urban winery located in the emerging (some say “hip”) RiNo (River North) district of Denver, Colorado. The Infinite Monkey Theorem also is a thought experiment that some have suggested dates as far back as Aristotle. In its simplest form, it basically postulates that a monkey hitting keys at random on a typewriter for an infinite amount of time will eventually type something intelligible.

1979 album from the great British Rock group

IMT (the winery) Founder and Winemaker Ben Parsons apparently chose the name because he saw it as an apt metaphor for winemaking. A winemaker essentially takes grape juice; puts it through various treatments; makes certain adjustments; and then hopes it ultimately turns into a delicious finished product.

 

While the probability of the theorem ever being proved is highly questionable (remember, it requires infinity), it’s relevance is vindicated with every new vintage of IMT wine. The winery just celebrated its fifth anniversary and in this short time arguably has garnered more attention and accolades than any other Colorado winery.

 

I had tasted several of the wines before and even attended their legendary “S’wine at the Mine” event at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen. I also was aware IMT, since its beginning, has made a name for being an innovator and skilled at marketing. This includes its attention grabbing labels and embrace of alternative packaging – namely cans, kegs, and growlers.

 

So, I decided it was time to visit the winery itself. Ben wasn’t around the day I was there but I enjoyed the company of the assistant winemaker Adam Teitelbaum.

 

The winery is housed in a 29,000-square-foot building that used to be the home of a weatherization agency. Today, it is a central member of a rapidly developing neighborhood. This space has allowed IMT to develop its consumer program to include tours, barrel tastings, and service in the Wine Lab tasting room, as well as private events (like a VIP party for the US Pro Cycling event) and weekly open-house parties. It was explained IMT seeks to be in tune with the younger demographic that is coming to characterize the neighborhood, which translate to various efforts to make wine more accessible and fun.

 

 

 

Adam explained, being an urban winery means being deeply involved with its neighborhood. IMT also hosts a regular schedule of community events, often partnering with local restaurants to provide the food. This past summer included live music for
 “First Friday Art Walk”, “Third Thursday Summer Supper & Song”, and painting and yoga classes. There is even a garden on the premises that supplies produce for a local restaurant. IMT also partners with The University of Colorado Cancer Center, donating a portion of all sales to cancer research.

 

The winery also has demonstrated its commitment to Colorado, using almost exclusively grapes from the Grand Valley on Colorado’s Western Slope, not to mention a willingness to experiment with lesser known grape varieties and blends. Adam showed me a good example of this during the tour: resting bottles of (what the winery says is Colorado’s first) Champagne Method sparkling wine, made with Colorado-grown albariño grapes, and just waiting to be hand riddled.

 

IMT will produce about 10,000 cases for the 2012 vintage from 146 tons of grapes. The location has the capacity to produce 25,000 cases from 400 tons of grapes. In the meantime, we tasted through some very good wines. My notes follow.

 

2012 Sauvignon Blanc & Semillon ($20) – green apple and citrus given more intrigue with lightly smoky and pleasantly chalky elements, held up with refreshing acidity

 

2012 Cabernet Franc ($25) – opens with floral, red plum, cassis, and spice that all carry over into a tasty drink showing the promise for this grape in Colorado

 

2012 Syrah ($25) – enticing blackberry fruit with added complexity from mineral, leather, and pepper notes, this is a rich wine, with a luscious texture and solid structure; this was my favorite sample; and it’s sealed with glass stopper; really cool

2013 Syrah fermenting in open top container

The Blind Watchmaker series is the winery’s signature line. I assume it is named after the book “The Blind Watchmaker: Why the Evidence of Evolution Reveals a Universe without Design” by evolutionary biologist Richard Dawkins. Unfortunately, I didn’t get a chance to pursue with my guide the relevance of this idea to IMT’s winemaking. Maybe next time. Regardless, the two wines reveal a design to please even the mot discriminating drinker.

 

2012 The Blind Watchmaker White ($25) – viognier and roussanne blend, aged nine months in neutral oak, showed nice butterscotch, honeysuckle and tropical fruits with good structure holding it all up

 

2012 Blind Watchmaker Red ($25) – petit verdot and merlot lead the blend with cabernet franc and syrah plus a dollop of viogier, blackberry, cherry and blueberry are wrapped in vanilla, followed by a whiff of graphite, solid fruit in the mouth flows along a seamless frame

 

IMT also produces varietal Riesling, Chardonnay, Verdelho (that’s right, the Portuguese grape), Petite Sirah, Petite Verdot, Black Muscat, Semillon, Malbec and a Rose, and just introduced its first dessert wine, a 2012 Orange Muscat.

 

The premier blend of the portfolio is the “100th Monkey,” a creative blend of cabernet franc, syrah, petite sirah, and malbec that has received high marks in national wine publications. The “hundredth monkey effect” refers to the proposition that once enough people adopt an idea or action, it can reach a threshold or critical mass that suddenly becomes accepted practice in the broader society. The idea has been promoted in popular culture through such works as Douglas Adams’ “The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy” and Ken Keyes, Jr.’s “The Hundredth Monkey.”

 

It is another fitting metaphor, as the folks at IMT seem to be operating on the principle that if they can attract enough people to try their wine, a tipping point will be reached and pretty soon everyone will be drinking it.

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FROM MY CELLAR

FROM MY CELLAR

 

2006 Mayacamas Chardonnay Napa Valley – Mt. Veeder ($35 on release)

This wine is all about delicious subtlety and balance. It reveals aromas of pure lemon and a suggestion of white peach with a layer of butterscotch and a steely note. These qualities carry over in the mouth where they are joined by stony (maybe flinty) qualities and nutty notes. It’s all delivered in a structure that is firm and crisp and picks up some viscosity midpalate, but stays light on its feet.

 

Those of you who prefer big, buttery Chardonnays may not like this as much as I do. I like some of those wines, too. But I find this Mayacamas much more satisfying. Everything is in proportion and no quality is overbearing.

 

The thin, rocky volcanic soil at Mayacamas’ mountain vineyard and the comparatively mild summers and but cold winters are conducive to high acid, intensely flavored grapes. In the cellar, this wine was spared malolactic fermentation and aged six months in larged American oak, then a year in smaller French oak barrels. It is typical for Mayacamas’ Chardonnays to reach maturity at five to eight years of age. And this one seems to have hit the mark right on schedule.

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ZINFANDEL IS RIPE FOR FALL GRILLING

I wonder how many wine drinkers will say, “Zinfandel is my favorite wine.” Count me in. I just love the lively wild berry (often described as bramble) fruit, brash texture, and spicy, peppery notes. It is especially enjoyable this time of year with all manner of grilled vegetables and meats, not to mention barbecue and other spicy foods.

 

And while the zinfandel grape, like so many other California grapes, actually has a European origin (Croatia!), it really is one of the few that makes indisputably better wine in California than anywhere else. And it is grown successfully all over the state. As it turns out, my recent tastings yielded enough recommendations – dominated by Sonoma, with three from Napa and one each from Mendocino and the Central Coast.

 

Outstanding

2010 Bella Dry Creek Valley “Barrel 32” ($55) – We shouldn’t be surprised this fourteen year-old Zinfandel specialist showed so well in my tastings. Winemaker Joe Healy has access to great old zinfandel vineyards and to another Zinfandel specialist, consulting winemaker Mike Dashe. This selection of Bella’s best barrels – aged 14 months 20% new French oak is big and brash, complex and rich, with tons of deep, extracted raspberry and cherry fruit, spices and sweet oak, a firm structure, yet a polished finish; Ageable

 

Excellent

 

2010 Bella Russian River Valley “Block 10” ($45) – aged in 20% new French and American oak, very ripe and rich combination of oak and intense blackberry fruit with chocolate, cassis, and black pepper, high alcohol but tastes balanced and finishes with friendly tannins, accented with 20% petite sirah; Ageable

2010 Amapola Creek Sonoma Valley Monte Rosso Vineyards “Vinas Antiguas” ($42) – After 15 years at Chateau St. Jean overlapping with 25 years at his own Arrowood Winery, Richard Arrowood, with his wife Alis, established a vineyard and winery on the Sonoma side of the Mayacamas Mountains and began producing wines under the Amapola Creek label. This unfiltered and unfined wine shows the pedigree of its mountain source and 118-year-old dry-farmed vines. It is dense, with cherry and blueberry fruit, licorice oak touches, pepper and spice notes, sleek texture, and noticeable but soft tannins.

 

2010 Bella Alexander Valley Big River Ranch ($38) – blended with 6% petite sirah, aged 12 months in 15% new French and America oak, full, rich, ripe and concentrated, loads of sweet blackberry and cherry fruit, spicy and earthy elements, a bit rough but reveals a certain elegance a solid structure

2010 Edmeades Mendocino County ($20) – New winemaker Ben Salazar has revitalized this long time Mendocino producer that is now part of Jackson Family Wines stable. Blended with 11% syrah and 10% petie sirah, aged 16 months in 20% new French and American oak, ripe, briary, cherry, raspberry, and blackberry, hints of oak, earth, and peppery spice, high alcohol, lively acidity but plump texture and soft tannins; Great Value

 

Very Good

 

2010 Bella Dry Creek Valley Maple Vineyard ($38) – aged 12 months in 20% new French and America oak, opens with an earthy (mineral?) note, then deep black fruits, but a bit rough, though nice blackberry and strong pepper flavors with smooth tannins

 

2010 Paraduxx Napa Valley “Z Blend” Red Wine ($48). Twenty years ago, when Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot specialist Napa Valley’s Duckhorn Winery wanted to produce a zinfandel-based blend, they decided to create a stand-alone label and winery. Following their duck theme, they named the new project Paraduxx, with a label displaying … well, think about it. The idea was to emulate the Super Tuscan wines of Italy and the Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon blends of Australia. Z Blend fuses 63% Zinfandel with 29% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot to make a complex, robust wine with the briary personality of Zinfandel and tannic structure of Cabernet.

 

2010 Paraduxx Napa Valley “C Blend” Red Wine ($52) – This flips the focus with 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Zinfandel, the power and herbaceousness of Cabernet compliments Zinfandel’s bright fruit, spice and broad palate.

 

2010 Dry Creek Vineyards Sonoma County “Heritage” ($19) – Founded in 1972 by David Stare, Dry Creek Vineyard was a pioneer of modern winemaking and viticulture in the Dry Creek Valley. Although the winery initially made its name with Sauvignon Blanc, it has recently gained much deserved attention for its Zinfandel. “Heritage” refers to the legacy of old vine budwood from Mazzoni Ranch vines in the Dry Creek Valley. Buttressed with 12% Petite Sirah, aged 14 months in 15% new French, American and Hungarian oak, this is a rustic, though easy going, expressive wine with peppery, smoky aromas and intriguing blackberry, chocolate and toast flavors buttressed with bright acidity and fresh tannins; Good Value

2010 Clos La Chance Central Coast ($15) – This twenty year old, family-owned winery produces wines from estate-grown fruit from vineyards near San Martin in Santa Clara County just east of the Santa Cruz Mountains. Blended with 11% petite sirah, aged 14 months in 20% new American oak, unfined and unfiltered. Really nice black cherry, black raspberry, and plum fruit are accented with a hint of vanilla. Fairly high alcohol, though juicy and spicy; great for everyday; Good Value.

 

Good

 

2010 Fritz Dry Creek Valley “Estate Grown” ($25) – Another family owned winery using estate grown fruit, this winery is over thirty years old. The wine is aged nine months in 30% new American oak, and is ripe and taut but a little of green, with solid acidity and tasty but somewhat shy fruit.

 

2011 Ranch Zabaco Sonoma Heritage Vines ($18) –This Zinfandel specialist, part of the massive Gallo family stable, has crafted a nice wine from grapes grown at three of their Dry Creek Valley vineyards. It is plump, with almost sweet black and red fruits, brown spices, and bright acidity, and is firm and spicy in the finish.

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THE BIG SUMMER 2013 CHARDONNAY REPORT

Chardonnay has long been considered the world’s greatest white wine grape. Its reputation for greatness has been firmly established by the heights it has achieved as the dominant white grape of Burgundy and Champagne. This reputation is probably the first thing that has attracted producers in other wine regions. It also turns out that chardonnay, like cabernet sauvignon, has an ability to make consistent, good wine in many regions around the world.

 

Consumers, for their part, have made chardonnay the most popular wine of any color in the world. And who could blame them? When done right, the grape yields a wine with a rich, full body and intense fruit that is easily recognizable and readily enjoyable.

 

Even a lower priced chardonnay should deliver rich, ripe fruit flavors, usually citrus or tropical, often also apple or pear, and sometimes melon or fig. Beyond accurate varietal fruit and an easy drinking style, more money should buy more body, concentration and complexity – such as an array of aromas and flavors, including spicy or toasty oak, honey, butter, cream, vanilla, butterscotch or hazelnut. Most of the wines, especially at higher price ranges, are best drunk within 2-4 years of release. The best wines should bring all this and more – intense flavors and layers of complexity, good acidic backbone, and succulent texture – but balance richness and weight with structure and acidity. They should combine both the power and grace that define the elusive quality of finesse. Here you will also find many that can improve with age.

 

The downside of chardonnay’s immense popularity is the rush to satisfy consumer demand has led to ill-advised plantings and overproduction. The result is many lackluster and uninteresting wines, particularly at the lower price ranges but also at the higher price levels. Because chardonnay’s popularity has grown even as the quantity of mediocre wine has increased, it has become something of a sport among wine journalists to trash the grape and the consumers who flock to it. Although it is clear that a lot of people are drinking a lot of bad chardonnay, my goal here is only to point readers to quality wines that deliver real flavor for your money.

 

Fortunately, there are plenty of responsible producers who consistently make wines that deliver the goods. And, if my tastings are any indication, producers as a whole have improved their offerings considerably, mostly by better balancing their use of new oak, malolactic fermentation, and sur lie aging (on “the lees”) to compliment ripe fruit and good acidity. It wasn’t long ago that in an article like this, I was able to recommend less than half of the wines I tasted. This time, I am recommending more than three-fourths.

 

Most wines in this report are from California but there are a few from other locales. The wines are listed in order of my personal preference within categories but all wines are recommended. Those that are likely to improve over time are marked “Ageable.”

 

EXCEPTIONAL

 

2011 Stonestreet “Bear Point” ($55) – mountain grown fruit, native yeast, 100% barrel fermented (malolactic and sur lie)and aged (50% new) 10 months; amazingly complex with orange, lemon nectarine and pineapple fruit, a honeyedrichness and a broad, creamy palate but a crisp mouthfeel and finishes with a mineral lift; Ageable

 

 

 

 

 

 

2011 Stonestreet “Broken Road” Alexander Valley ($40) – mountain grown fruit, native yeast, 100% barrel fermented (malolactic and sur lie) and aged (47% new) 10 months; intense and concentrated, smoky oak and buttery notes overlay complex lemon and orange citrus, apple and tropical fruit with mineral notes delivered with a rich, creamy texture balanced with vibrant acidity; Ageable

 

EXCELLENT

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2010 Patz & Hall “Hyde Vineyard” Carneros ($58) – native yeast, 100% malolactic and 52% barrel fermented and sur lie aged in barrel; toasty, buttery oak gives way to citrus, pear, tropical fruit, and stony notes over a fairly full, lush palate buttressed by strong acidity; Ageable

 

2011 Frank Family Vineyards Napa Valley ($35) – sourced from Frank Family’s Lewis Vineyard in Carneros, 100% barrel aged (one-third new) 10 months; juicy fruit of apple, citrus, apricot, and pineapple, caramel hazelnut oak spices and creamy texture balanced with fresh acidity, crisp finish

 

2011 Patz & Hall “Hudson Vineyard” Carneros ($55) – native yeast, 100% malolactic fermentation in barrel, barrel aged sur lie (55% new); oaky and buttery, with a lush palate but nicely balanced with lifted pear, tangerine and tropical fruit, and a rich but crisp texture

 

2011 Stonestreet Upper Barn ($75) – mountain grown fruit, native yeast, 100% barrel fermented (malolactic and sur lie) and aged (50% new) 10 months; opens with lush tropical fruit but powerful lemony acidity quickly asserts itself in this deeply concentrated and rich wine notable for its big, broad aromas and flavors that some may find overblown, while others may appreciate its intensity; Ageable

 

2011 Chappellet Napa Valley ($35) – sourced from cooler vineyards in southern Napa, 100% barrel aged on sur lie 8 months (one-third new); nice tropical notes, with a suggestion of toast and sweet oak precede a rounded texture, a bit of woody bitterness complimented by citrus, and tropical fruit, finishes light on its feet but lingers nicely

 

2011 Buty “Conner Lee Vineyard” Columbia Valley ($40) – initial fermentation in barrel sur lie, malolactic fermentation and aged in concrete, yields caramel apple leading into pear, pineapple and lemon fruit, elegant palate, balanced and supple rich finishes with juicy acidity.

 

2011 Patz & Hall “Dutton Ranch” Russian River Valley ($42) – native yeast, 100% malolactic fermentation in barrel (35% new) and barrel ages sur lie; Patz & Hall excels at the rich and oaky style and this one lavishes juicy pineapple, citrus, and pear with butter and cream but again offers ample acidity to keep it all together.

 

VERY GOOD

 

2011 Sequoia Grove Napa Valley ($28) – from Carneros fruit, stainless and barrel fermented (no malolactic), barrel aged 8 months sur lie; fine and firm, lively but well mannered, with citrus, orange, honey, toast and mineral notes, fresh and juicy

 

2011 La Crema Russian River Valley ($30) –100% barrel fermented (32% new) and malolactic fermentation, barrel aged 8½ months sur lie; quite aromatic with very nice lemon and crème brulee, clean, deep citrus and peach wrapped in fresh cream, fairly full and rich, ripe but well-balanced; Ageable

 

2010 Craggy Range “Kidnappers” Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand ($21) – native and inoculated yeast, stainless and barrel fermented and barrel aged 5 months; zesty citrus and tropical fruit meet a touch of oak and a suggestion of crushed nuts

 

2011 Kendall-Jackson “Grand Reserve” ($22) –100% barrel aged (one-third new) sur lie; from Santa Barbara and Monterey fruit, nice citrus and tropical fruit wrapped in light butterscotch with a touch of toasty oak

 

2011 Talbott “Sleepy Hollow Vineyard” Santa Lucia Highlands ($42) –100% barrel fermented and aged (30% new) sur lie 11 months; touches of sweet oak compliment concentrated apple, tropical and citrus fruit and mouthwatering acidity; Ageable

 

2010 Matanzas Creek Sonoma County ($26) – 100% barrel fermented (including malolactic) and aged (30% new) 10 months; nice mix of citrus and creamy oak, hint of butter, tight citrus in the mouth, an intriguing bitterness in middle, but a seamless texture

 

2011 Patz & Hall Sonoma Coast ($38) – native yeast, 100% barrel fermented and aged (40% new) 7 months; juicy citrus and tropical fruit, buttery aroma, creamy texture, and a fresh finish

 

2011 Francis Ford Coppola Winery “Director’s Cut” Russian River Valley ($21) – 100% barrel fermented (including malolactic) and aged (30% new) sur lie; citrus and baking spices are followed by a flavorful, sumptuous palate and a bright finish

 

2011 Talbott “Logan” Santa Lucia Highlands ($24) – a less expensive version of Sleepy Hollow Vineyard, 80% barrel fermented (20% stainless) and barrel aged 10 months; bright citrus, light cream, lemon merengue, touch of spice, rather firm and intense, quite a mouth impact, solid impact

 

2011 Davis Bynum “River West Vineyard” Russian River Valley ($30) – 100% barrel fermented (including malolactic) and aged (30% new) sur lie; toasty oak and vanilla, with grilled pineapple introduce a nice creamy entry, with butterscotch, but also lively dance on tip of the tongue, Barrel fermented full malolactic fermentation

 

2010 Grgich Hills Estate Grown Napa Valley ($42) – from organic and biodynamic American Canyon and Carneros fruit, native yeast, 100% barrel fermented (no malolactic) and aged (40% new) 10 months; citrus and pear fruit with solid backbone and crisp finish, a refreshing alternative to the big, buttery style

 

2010 Byron “Nielsen Vineyard” Santa Maria Valley  ($32) – native yeast, 100% barrel fermented (including malolactic) and aged (40% new) sur lie 12 months; nicely aromatic citrus, mango and orange, with a buttery note, good balance of fruit and acid; Ageable

 

2012 Freemark Abbey Napa Valley ($30) – stainless steel fermentation (including malolactic), barrel aged (15% new) 4 months; very fresh lemon and orange aromas and flavors, light touch and juicy palate

 

2011 “Charm Acres”, Sonoma Coast ($21) – 100% barrel fermented (no malolactic) and aged (25% new) sur lie 8 months; citrus and pear fruit, with a spicy note followed by an intense and mango and a touch of minerality

 

2012 Kendall-Jackson “Avant” ($17) – 54% stainless and 46% barrel fermented (partial malolactic) and aged (30% new) 10 months; citrus and floral notes throughout, lots of juicy fruit and a full body

 

2012 Kendall-Jackson “Vintner’s Reserve” ($17) – 100% barrel fermented (including malolactic) and aged sur lie; citrus and cream in nose and mouth, juicy, creamy texture, light spice in finish

 

GOOD

 

2010 Amapola Creek “Jos. Balli Vineyards” Sonoma Valley ($35) – light pear, citrus and oak and a lush texture

 

2011 La Crema Monterey County ($20) – Arroyo Seco fruit, tangy citrus and tropical fruit, light butterscotch

 

2011 Stoller “Reserve” Dundee Hills, Oregon ($35) – pleasant lemon, toast and oak, light, crisp, strong-tight citrus spine

 

2011 Rodney Strong “Chalk Hill Estate” Sonoma County ($22) – fresh, citrus, and orange, oily texture carries nice fruit

 

2011 Landmark “Overlook” ($25) – juicy tropical fruits, touch of cream with orange essence, creamy texture

 

2011 J. Lohr “October Night” Arroyo Seco ($25) – pineapple and some lemon with butter and cream, nice lush texture

 

2011 Rodney Strong Sonoma County ($22) – butter, pineapple, touch of brown spice, light, fruity, spicy aftertaste

 

2012 Arrowood Sonoma County ($21) – lemon wrapped with oaky, buttery cloak with vanilla, tropical fruit, nicely balanced

 

2011 Byron Santa Maria Valley ($27) – nutty, creamy, toasty aromas followed by fig and honey flavors

 

2011 J. Lohr “Riverstone” Arroyo Seco ($14) – rather firm, a buttery note, decent citrus, touch of butterscotch in finish

 

2011 Jordan Russian River Valley ($30) – lightly creamy, oaky notes combine with pineapple and tart citrus in a lean frame

 

2011 Lange Twins Clarksburg ($15) – white plum, honey, smoke, soft and fruity, lingering finish

 

2011 Edna Valley Vineyards “Paragon Vineyard” ($12) – butterscotch, caramel, lemon merengue, light cream, fat and soft

 

2011 Talbott “Kali Hart” Estate Grown ($20) – nice tropical aromas, sugary overlay, somewhat light but tasty, a slight vegetal finish

 

2011 Clos LaChance Chardonnay Monterey County ($11) – toasty pineapple with touch of spice, bright citrusy flavors

 

2011 Matchbook “Old Head” Dunnigan Hills ($15)– fresh apple and lively tropical fruits

 

2011 Cambria “Katherine’s Vineyard” Estate Bottled Santa Maria Valley ($22) – a smoky, charred character, strong citrus in nose and mouth,

 

2011 Dark Horse California ($8) – lemon, toasty notes, with licorice scents

 

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HOPE FAMILY SHOWCASES THE BEST OF PASO ROBLES

On a recent press trip to Paso Robles, sponsored by Hope Family Wines, our host Austin Hope set the tone for the visit when he said it was his goal to show us the diversity of the region, not just his wines. I welcomed this, not only because Hope’s wines have long been among my favorites but also because I had been to Paso twice before and was eager to see how the region has developed.

 

Paso Robles is the largest American Viticultural Area (AVA) in California. It is also the name of the main town of about 30,000, whose original name was El Paso del Robles (“Passage of the Oaks”). But, after my visits to the area, I think Paso could just be short for “passion.

Austin Hope oversees Hope Family Wines (www.hopefamilywines.com), a family-owned and -operated enterprise encompassing five brands: Liberty School, Treana, Candor, Austin Hope and Troublemaker wines. Austin’s father, Chuck Hope moved his family from the Central Valley to Paso in 1978 to plant wine grapes pioneering families of the region. After growing grapes and developing vineyards throughout the eighties and early nineties, the family became convinced Paso Robles was capable of producing world-class wines and began producing their own wines.

 

They joined a handful of other pioneering families who helped promote the region, not just as a source of fine quality grapes but also as a complete wine travel destination. Today, Austin and Hope Family Wines also epitomize Paso Robles’ reputation for being on the cutting edge, a reputation Austin has fostered by experimenting with Rhone-style blends and multiple vintage wines.

At a tour of the Huerhuero Vineyard, a longtime source for entry level Liberty School wines, on the Eastside of Paso Robles, and of the nearby Hope Family Wines winemaking facility, we learned from General Manager of Vineyard Operations Suhky Sran, Winemaker J.C. Diefenderfer, and Assistant Winemaker Samantha Taylor about the family’s role in developing vineyards throughout Paso Robles and how they work with over 50 family-owned vineyards to produce fruit for the Liberty School wines. The brand had bee created in the 1970’s by the Wagner family of Napa’s Caymus Vineyards and the Hopes collaborated with the Wagners since the late 1980’s to supply cabernet sauvignon grapes. He Hope’s then took over sole responsibility for the brand in 1996.

 

Today, there is a range of varietals that deliver consistent quality for the money and are regularly recognized as a “Good Values” and “Best Buys.” Look for Cabernet Sauvignon (2010, $14), Chardonnay wines (2011, $14), Pinot Noir ($20), and Liberty School Merlot ($16). The wines are made in a more restrained, food friendly style with forward fruit, good varietal character, and moderate alcohol.

 

The Hopes then established Treana Winery in 1996, to produce high-end Rhone-style blends from Paso Robles and Central Coast fruit. JC explained to us the name Treana symbolizes the trinity of natural elements – sun, soil and ocean – that make Paso Robles and the Central Coast exceptional for growing wine grapes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

To give us a flavor for what this means, we toured the Mer Soleil Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands near Salinas (our only stop outside of Paso Robles). This Monterey County-based vineyard is the long-time major source for Treana White, one of the first white Rhone-style blends and still one of the most highly regarded. The current vintage (2011, $23) is a blend of equal parts viognier and marsanne. Floral and tropical aromatics precede ripe pear and honey flavors combined with a lush texture and balancing acidity.

 

The Treana Red (2010, $45), which Austin considers his flagship wine, is a blend of cabernet sauvignon and syrah. It combines the depth and structure of a Cab, with the fullness and class of syrah. It is a perfect example of Austin’s willingness to work outside-the-box. Not many wineries were combining Rhone and Bordeaux blends when he created this wine almost twenty years ago.

The Hopes also own a vineyard on the Westside of Paso Robles planted primarily to syrah and grenache, with some mourvedre. Austin crafts wines inspired by the Northern Rhône Valley from this estate grown fruit. Known as the Hope Family Vineyard, it is located 20 miles east of the Pacific Ocean in the Templeton Gap district of Paso Robles. The site’s rocky soils of clay and limestone make it ideal for the Rhône varietals to which it is planted.

 

At this site, we were given a fascinating overview of the sustainable farming practices – certified by Sustainability in Practice (SIP), www.sipcertified.com – employed in the vineyard. Beth Vukmanic Lopez, Sustainability in Practice Certification Manager explained how for over 15 years, SIP has helped growers, vineyards and consumers rethink their approach to sustainability. As Beth said, SIP Certified sustainable vineyards and wines is about looking at the whole farm and considering “people, planet and profit.” In this sense, SIP is complementary to organic practices, not necessarily a replacement. Of course, a winery needs to make a profit to stay in business but that is closely tied to the quality of the wines, which depends on the quality of the grapes, which is connected to healthy vineyards. But SIP practices also consider the well being of the vineyard and winery workers, an often over looked factor. An important element to the success of the program is the third party certification SIP provides using independent auditors.

 

At the winery and tasting room on site, we enjoyed a barrel tasting of 2012 vintage Austin Hope Syrah and Grenache. Austin told us he uses traditional Côte-Rotie as his benchmark in making his syrah. But, being in California, he added he likes his wines to taste like the old world wines “but with a little bit more.”

This approach showed through the current vintages we tasted. The Syrah (2010, $42) displayed a balance of savory and fruit elements. Aromatic, intense and full-bodied, it also was elegant with pure berry fruit, licorice and earthy complexity. The Grenache (2010, $42) revealed characteristics of dried red fruits, earth and spices with good concentration, firm acidity and soft tannins.

 

The Hopes haven’t stopped to rest on these successful brands. Another label, “Candor” was created in 2008. These multi-vintage wines, a Merlot and Zinfandel, are crafted from specially selected fruit from a variety of Central Coast vineyards. They exhibit excellent varietal flavor at a reasonable price. We tasted the Zinfandel Lot 4 ($20) and Merlot Lot 3 ($20), which I found notable for their true varietal flavor and fresh, bright fruit.

 

Finally, the newest label in the Hope Family stable, “Troublemaker,” places Austin Hope’s creativity and willingness to challenge convention on full display. Troublemaker Blend 6 ($20) is a multi-vintage montage of 50% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Zinfandel and 10% Petite Sirah. Its profile reflected its name with brash fruit and lively texture.

While it was great to learn about all the Hope wines, the trip was made really special by the inclusion of visits to some of Paso Robles most notable artisan producers and restaurants.

 

Villa Creek (www.villacreek.com) has long been a destination restaurant for Paso Robles.

Artisan (www.artisanpasorobles.com) grows some of its ingredients at a local organic farm and showcased a distinctive wine on tap program.

Thomas Hill Organics (www.thomashillorganics.com) is a casual market-bistro that serves spectacularly fresh food, not surprising since most of it comes from their own organic farm.

Il Cortile Ristorante (www.ilcortileristorante.com) features exceptional homemade pastas, fresh seafood, and top-quality meats.

 

All of the restaurants craft dishes as much as possible from seasonal, locally grown ingredients from small producers, much of it organically or sustainably farmed. At these restaurants, farm-to-table is not just a marketing slogan. They live it every day. I will say without hesitation these places are as good as the best restaurants in any city in the nation.

 

And as if that wasn’t enough, to give us a sampling of the top quality artisan products being produced in the area we also toured two special places.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A visit to the Kiler Ridge Olive Farm (http://kilerridge.com) with founders Audrey Burnam & Gregg Bone was eye opening. Although it is just minutes from downtown Paso Robles the hilly, picturesque location transports visitors to another location, specifically Italy. Kiler Ridge uses sustainable farming practices and currently maintains 2,500 olive trees – varieties originating from Italy and Sicily.

 

Gregg and Audrey were gracious hosts. Gregg provided us with an extensive overview of his production process and explained in amazing detail why most of the “extra virgin” olive oil we buy in the supermarket isn’t really, regardless of what’s on the label.

 

It was particularly enlightening to me to actually taste the difference. The Kiler Ridge oils were noticeably fresher and displayed distinct grassy and peppery flavors. Greg explained this is because his oils have much higher polyphenol content – he even said, “I’m a polyphenol producer, not an olive oil producer.” Polyphenols are strong antioxidants with many health benefits. Bottom line, though, the oils were delicious but admittedly might be an acquired taste for some consumers used to blander commercial oils.

 

And they presented us with the most eye opening taste sensation I have hade in years: vanilla ice cream topped with sea salt, my choice of Kiler Ridge olive oil and balsamic syrup. All I can say is “wow!” It was delicious with all the savory and sweet elements melding together beautifully.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We also took a refreshing break from winetasting for a tour of the Firestone Walker Brewery (www.firestonebeer.com) with Brewmaster Matt Brynildson. Firestone Walker (named for owners Adam Firestone and David Walker) has been brewing since 1996 but moved from Santa Barbara to Paso Robles in 2001. Firestone Walker and Brewmaster Brynildson are one of the nation’s most awarded breweries and are particularly notable for their use of barrel fermentation for several of their ales.

 

I wholeheartedly recommend the next time you are considering a vacation to wine country, make Paso Robles your destination. The number of wineries has grown from about forty 25 years ago to over 200 (mostly small and family-owned) today. But that is only the beginning of this region’s story. Passionate, dedicated artisan producers with a commitment to sustainability are to be found everywhere in the region.

 

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FOOD & WINE MAGAZINE BRINGS THE WORLD OF WINE TO ASPEN

While the cooking demonstrations and wine seminars are the foundation of the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen, another hallmark of the Classic is all the receptions, parties, and other special events. This year was no exception. I had so many invitations, I just couldn’t make them all … and believe me I tried.

 

But I still had many opportunities to discover new wines and meet new winemakers. For me, one of the best things about the Classic is the opportunity it presents to meet winemakers and winery owners and to taste wines from producers whom I seldom or never get a chance to try.

For instance, I had a chance to sit down with Michael Martini, the third generation winemaker for the Louis M. Martini Winery in the Napa Valley. Michael, who has been the winemaker for this family (a family that has an over 100 year old history of winemaking in California) since 1977, was anxious to tell me about (and have me taste) his wines. Mariola Varona Bayola, the Export Manager for Bodegas Martin Codax, also joined us. Martín Códax is a 27 year old Spanish winery that is best known for its Albariño. Confused that representatives of a California winery and a Spanish winery both were at this meeting? Don’t be, both are now owned by the Gallo family. And both were delightful lunch companions. And their wines – Martini Cabs and Codax Albariño – were equally enjoyable.

 

It was a treat to be able to attend a reserve tasting moderated by Master Sommelier Richard Betts on “The Extraordinary Wines of California’s Sine Qua Non.” Now, if you have never heard of Sine Qua Non, don’t worry. That just means you are not a wine geek. Sine Qua Non is a “cult wine” among the cult wines. You can only buy them if you first get on their mailing list and then wait only God knows how long to get in. Maybe you can find one on a restaurant wine list but it probably will cost hundreds of dollars. This is what is special about these reserve tasting’s. They offer rare opportunities to taste equally rare and extraordinary wines.

All of the wines we tasted reflected differing blends of various Rhone varietals – the reds presented different expressions of syrah and grenache, while the whites showed off combinations of roussanne, viognier, and chardonnay. My key take away from the tasting is that the wines definitely lived up to their hype. First and foremost, all six wines showed off beautiful fruit. The use of oak showed in balance with the depth of fruit and acidity.

 

It’s a ritual every year to wander the Grand Tasting Tent, where producers from all over the world display their wares, in the hopes of making new discoveries. As with previous years, I ended up on a sort of world tour. I don’t have room to list all the wines tasted but here are a few highlights.

Although Australia is best known for many great Shiraz, I’m glad I was persuaded to take the road less traveled and try some really outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. From Penley Estate, a highly regarded winery in the Coonawarra region of South Australia, I enjoyed the “Phoenix” and Reserve Cabs and chatting with Proprietor/Chief Winemaker Kym Tolley. From the Yarra Valley region of Victoria, I really was impressed with Pinot Noirs from Giant Steps and Innocent Bystander, partly because one usually doesn’t think of great Pinot Noir from Australia but also because Owner/Winemaker Phil Sexton was pouring and explaining the wines. Before leaving Australia, I found one more wine I also highly recommend: the Vasse Felix “Heytesbury” Cabernet Sauvignon from the Margaret river region of Southwestern Australia.

 

Representing Portugal, the Esporão Assobio, which is made predominantly from touriga nacional, tinta roriz and touriga franca grapes, is a distinguished single vineyard red worthy of any serious wine drinker. If you think the only Portugal wine worth drinking is Port (and Port is great stuff), think again. There is a lot of great Portuguese dry table wine and Assobio is one of the best.

 

Wines from Spain for many years has hosted a whole tent as a separate location within the Grand Tasting park and it is always a great place to hunt for new wines. This year I was especially impressed with the wines at the “Drink Ribera” (that’s Ribera del Duero, one of Spain’s most important regions). My favorites were the Bodegas Montecastro, from high altitude vineyards, and Alejandro Fernandez Tinto Pesquera, from a pioneer of modern Spanish wine. Both are excellent representations of tempranillo, Spain’s most distinguished grape.

 

I finished my tour in the tent tasting several California wines, with the highlights being the following, all really outstanding, wines:

 

  • 2011 Franciscan Cuvée Sauvage Chardonnay
  • 2009 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
  • 2009 Simi Cabernet Sauvignon Landslide Vineyard
  • 2009 Franciscan Magnificat (Bordeaux-style blend)
  • 2009 Mt. Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
  • 2010 Ravenswood Zinfandel Belloni Vineyard

As for the receptions, the annual Wines from Spain/Jose Andres Spanish Barbecue was another stunner. Hosted at an amazing trophy home/mansion in the mountains above the Buttermilk ski area, there were again delectable grilled meats and shrimp, tasty charcuterie, and a wonderful array of cheeses. Of course, there also were some excellent wines. I was impressed enough with three wines – Bodegas Roda Rioja  “Roda 1,” Bodegas Muga Rioja “Torre Muga,” and Bodegas Emilio Moro Ribera del Duero “C21 Malabrigo” – to actually write them down amid all the happy chaos.

But I was especially impressed this year with the reception for the “Chef’s Club by Food & Wine” restaurant. This is a special restaurant within the St. Regis hotel that features a rotating lineup of Food & Wine Best New Chefs doing the cooking. What was really cool was the collection of fine Colorado artisan producers presenting their creations in the courtyard. Kudos to Continental Sausage (Denver), Licious Organics (Boulder), Linger restaurant (Denver), Quixotic Tilapia Farm (Canon City), Magpies (Eagle), Aero Farm (Lakewood), Outrageous Gluten-Free Baking (Denver), Jumpin’ Good Goat Dairy (Buena Vista), Etalia Gluten-Free Breads (Boulder), Raquelitas Tortillas (Denver), and

Esoteric Foods “Zuke” Pickled Products (Boulder).

 

Needless to say, it was another year of discovery at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen. I already can’t wait for next year.