Category: Recommendations

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LOTS OF BUBBLES TO MAKE YOUR NEW YEAR SPARKLE

PEOPLE’S PALATE WEEKLY WINE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR DECEMBER 26, 2012

LOTS OF BUBBLES TO MAKE YOUR NEW YEAR SPARKLE

 

Although sparkling wine is always an appropriate choice for any occasion any time of year, no question the New Year, with all its toasts and “Champagne” brunches, are prime time for indulging a bit of bubbly. And effervescent wine is so popular, there are versions made in virtually every wine region.

 

Champagne

 

The benchmark for sparkling wine is that made in the Champagne region of northwestern France. Cool climate, limestone laced soils, and a nearly 300 year singular focus on the style (the “traditional method” – secondary fermentation in the bottle to capture the ”stars”) means Champagne is the benchmark for all things foamy. It also means the stuff is quite expensive. So, I suspect in most cases you will be looking for a nonvintage Brut. It’ll still set you back a pretty penny but with a top producer (like the two here) you’ll still get something special.

Charles Heidsieck. One of the oldest and most prestigious Champagne houses, established in 1851, the Charles Heidsieck house style typically is one the most complex and bold. Equal parts pinot noir, chardonnay, pinot meunier, with 40 percent reserve wines – some 10-15 years old – the Brut Reserve ($65) packs toasty brioche, pear and tropical fruits, with nutty notes in an amazingly lush frame. Even given the considerable cash commanded by Champagne, the Brut Reserve delivers a lot of wine for the money. 

Lanson. Over 250 years old (the fourth oldest Champagne house), Lanson has been absent from the U.S. market for a while but was recently reintroduced here. Lanson always was one of my favorite Champagnes, so I’m glad they’re back. And the Brut Rosé ($60) doesn’t disappoint. With 53 percent pinot noir, 32 percent chardonnay and 15 percent pinot meunier, the wine is exceedingly fresh and aromatic. This may be because Lanson eschews malolactic fermentation, meaning its wines typically retain more pure fresh fruit character. This one is loaded, with biscuit and floral aromas, red berry and citrus flavors and comes with an elegant texture.

 

Crémant

 

Beyond Champagne, there still are a wide variety of (mostly) more affordable choices for you. In France, Crémant is a term used to designate a high quality sparkling wine made using specified quality control practices including the “methode traditionnelle.”

 

Pierre Sparr Crémant d’Alsace. The Sparr family winery was established an amazingly long time ago in 1680. Pierre Sparr has access to many of the region’s finest vineyards, so maybe it shouldn’t be a surprise this is a highly respected producer. The Brut Reserve ($19) is 80 percent pinot blanc, 20 percent pinot auxerrois. The nose suggests the assertive melon, tropical and citrus fruit that dominates the palate. Fine mousse tickles the palate with minerals and hints of nuts. A fantastic value. The Brut Rosé ($19) is 100 percent pinot noir with fresh aromas of soft red berries and delicate, fruity flavors and lively acidity.

 

Gerard Bertrand Crémant de Limoux. Limoux, a small town and appellation in the Languedoc-Rousillon region of Mediterranean France, lays claim to producing sparkling wine by a second fermentation in the bottle long before Champagne.  Crémant de Limoux traces its history to 1531 and Benedictine monks at the abbey of Saint-Hilaire. Bertrand’s 2010 Crémant de Limoux ($16) is a blend of 70 percent chardonnay, 20 percent chenin blanc and 10 percent mauzac, the indigenous grape which used to dominate all Limoux sparkling wine. There is enticing flowery, citrus and toast on the nose and pleasant pear, apple and lemon flavors. I found the palate to show refined, frothy bubbles.

 

Prosecco

 

Prosecco from the Veneto region of northeastern Italy has become an extremely popular sparkling wine choice in recent years. Prosecco (the name of the production zone, while glera is the dominant grape), unlike the other sparklers in this report is produced using the Charmat Method. In this case, the bubbles are produced by inducing the second fermentation in a pressurized tank. The attraction is in fresh aromas and clean, delicate fruit, frizzante bubbles and low alcohol.

 

Valdo. Valdo Spumanti was established in 1926 and has been owned by the Bolla family since 1940. The Valdo Brut DOC ($12) opens with floral aromas and delivers lively, fruity pear and apple flavors. Valdo also has released a new Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut. Designated “Oro Puro” ($16), Prosecco’s fresh, lively style certainly is present but there is evidence of greater complexity and fuller flavors as the grapes are from the finest (usually higher altitude) hillside estate vineyards and the wine undergoes an extended aging period. Also consider Valdo’s Nerello Mascalese Rosé ($14), in which the nerello grape adds color, raspberry and spice to the blend. It’s not Prosecco but is similar in style.

 

Mionetto. Another one of Prosecco’s top producers, Mionetto traces its origin to 1887. They also areone of the zone’s most creative, as evidenced by the lighter, gently-sparkling and lower alcohol style of Mionetto’s “IL” ($13). The fruity aroma of pear and citrus is followed by a fresh and crisp wine with apple and peach flavors. The Mionetto Prosecco Brut DOC Treviso ($15) is a bit floral and more intensely fruity with notes of apple and citrus. It also is drier and pleasantly brisk.

 

Enza. Enza Extra Dry ($15) is a new brand produced for the importer W.J. Deutsch by the Cantina Colli del Soligo, a cooperative of growers throughout the Veneto. The slightly higher residual sugar is nicely balanced with just the right touch of acidity. The delicate bouquet offers with scents of pear and apple with a lightly floral, while the mouth also exhibits citrus and peach.

 

Moscato and Moscato d’Asti

 

You have to give the Italians credit for creativity and their fascination with spumante. As much as they are rightly recognized for their red wines, I have been told the Italians are just as proud of their sparkling wines. In addition to Prosecco and the impressive Franciacorta (none reviewed here), the Piemontese have come up with one of the most delightful of all. Made from the moscato bianco (white Muscat) grape in the vineyards surrounding the town of Asti, moscato d’Asti is enticingly aromatic, delightfully sweet, slightly fizzy (frizzante), and very low alcohol (5.5%), making it perfect as an aperitif or a dessert wine.


Vietti Moscato d’Asti. With a 200 year tradition of winemaking, this highly regarded producer is recognized as one of the first in the Piemonte to bottle single-vineyard wines and for pioneering the resurrection of the indigenous areneis white grape.  They also make one of the best Moscato d’Asti. The 2012 “Cascinetta” ($15) uses only the best moscato grapes with extended maturation. The resulting wine intense aromas of honey, peach and orange, with hints of spice and a suggestion of flowers. On the palate, it is loaded with apple, pear and lemon, while its delicate sweetness is balanced with bracing acidity leading to a fresh finish.

 

 

Caposaldo Moscato. Caposaldo is a brand brought to the U.S. by the importer Kobrand. The Moscato IGT ($10) actually is not a Moscato d’Asti but I include it here for ease of reference. The grapes are grown in the Provincia di Pavia in northern Italy’s Lombardy region. It is a bit less sweet and higher in alcohol (but still very low at 7%). And the price sure is right.

 

Cava

 

Spanish Cava has long been my go-to bubbly for parties and friendly accompaniment for meals. Most Cava is produced by the tradition method in the Penedès valley in Cataluna not far from Barcelona. Most Cava features the indigenous grapes Macabeo, Xarel-lo, Parellada. It’s recently had competition from Prosecco but is still a great choice.

 

Codorníu. Codorníu has been a premier sparkling wine producer since 1872 when the family introduced the traditional method to Spain. The family’s winemaking history actually stretches back more than 450 years to 1551. Anna de Codorníu Brut ($15) celebrates the life of Codorníu’s last heiress and the family she guided. It was the first Cava to use chardonnay in its cuvee, 70 percent in this release with 30 percent parellada. It shows some richness and a little sweetness, with a solid structure and a creamy texture and more fruit than expected – citrus, tropical and strawberry aromas; and apple, citrus, and raspberry flavors.

 

Poema.  Poema is a top-quality, small-production Cava house that emphasizes sustainable practices, suchasorganic fertilizer and no herbicides. The Brut ($13) is notable for its fresh bread, citrus, apple and even mineral notes. Its crisp, fruity and well-balanced profile positions it as a great choice. 

California

 

Barefoot Bubbly. For my California selection, I’m recommending a reliable choice in the so-called “value” category – Barefoot Bubbly. Barefoot Cellars has been churning out good value wines since 1986. Today, they produce thirteen still wines and seven sparkling. The mainstays of the Barefoot Bubbly line are the Brut Cuvée and Extra Dry, each ($11). The Brut is not as dry as the term usually indicates. But it is clean and crisp, with nice lemon and apple fruit balanced with creamy notes. The Extra Dry shows nice fresh tropical fruit; it is slightly sweet but finishes with refreshing acidity. These wines are ideal for parties and family gatherings and make a good base for the ever popular mimosa.

 

 

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PEOPLE’S PALATE WEEKLY WINE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR DECEMBER 19, 2012

SWEETS FOR THE HOLIDAYS

 

Something about the cold weather and holidays always gets me in the mood for a good dessert wine. I’ve discovered a few that I am looking forward to helping me get through the holidays and the rest of winter.

 

Port

 

Although I enjoy Port all year long, there is something about cold weather that gets me thinking about stocking up on this special dessert wine from Portugal’s Douro River Valley. The warming quality of Port’s intensity and high alcohol really hits the spot this time of year. There are many styles and a number of special designations but the wines are so good, the little extra effort it takes to understand them will be greatly rewarded. Actually, there are two basic styles: mostly wood-aged Port, usually classified as Tawny; and mostly bottle-aged Port, including Vintage, Late Bottled Vintage and Ruby.

 

Vintage Port is made only in exceptional years from the finest grapes in the top vineyards. They are dark, with intense fruit, great depth, and tannic grip. They also are quite expensive. Since I can’t afford Vintage Port often, one of my favorite alternatives is made by Ficklin Vineyards, a family operation that has been producing highly regarded California Port-style wines for three generations. The 1996 Ficklin Vintage Port ($36), though less intense than the Portuguese version, still is impressively rich and ready to enjoy immediately but will develop well.

 

Late Bottled Vintage Port (or LBV) also is an affordable alternative. It is made from good wines of a single year that didn’t quite make the cut for Vintage Port. Aged four to six years before bottling, it is ready to drink upon release but can last a few years. I enjoyed Dow’s 2007 LBV ($22), from the family’s fourth winemaking generation, for its full body and blackberry fruit balanced with good acidity and soft tannins.

 

Ruby Port is the youngest and most accessible Port. Aged three years in large vats to retainfreshness, expect straightforward, grapey fruit. Cockburn’s “Special Reserve” ($22), crafted to be more concentrated than a standard Ruby by this 200 year old producer, is a delectable choice with aromas of ripe plums and dark cherries and concentrated flavors to match. Fonseca Bin No. 27 ($21), another nearly two hundred year old family winery is quite intense with lively red fruits and good structure. Here again, Ficklin is a California alternative worth considering. I have been drinking the Old Vine Tinta Port ($18), which is produced using a unique solera blending system, for more than 30 years and it has never disappointed me.

 

Tawny Port is known less for power and concentration than for complexity, purity of fruit and finesse. Tawnies areblended wines and the best indicate an average age. Expect the balance, elegance and complexity to increase with the older wines. The Taylor Fladgate 20 Year Old ($56) is amazingly pure with vibrant, deep fruit, nutty complexity and great balance. The Fonseca 10 Year Old ($33) is quite fine in its own right and certainly more affordable, though a little sharper and not as complex. And don’t forget Ficklin’s Aged 10 Years ($28), which I enjoyed for its attractive plum and cinnamon and lingering finish.

 

 

Some California producers make a Port-style wine often using zinfandel because of itsability to develop naturally high alcohol levels without fortification. The 2009 Dashe Late Harvest Zinfandel (375 ml, $24) certainly conjures the character of a Ruby Port. It has fine structure and acidity, with aromas and flavors of raspberry and black pepper. The 2009 St. Francis Sonoma County Port ($38) is a rich, blend of cabernet sauvignon, zinfandel, merlot, syrah, and alicante bouchet. Aromas of spice and dark fruits lead to exuberant wild berry flavors and a silky texture.

 

Banyuls

 

Where the south of France hugs the Mediterranean Sea, the Languedoc and the Roussillon produce a wide variety of sweet wines, mostly from variations of the white grape muscat and occasionally the red grape grenache. Most of these wines (known as Vin Doux Naturel) are made by fortifying the partially fermented wine with grape spirits. This report covers three of the best.

 

From the terraced vineyards near the seaside town of the same name, Banyuls, (grenache is the dominant grape) is a truly underappreciated sweet red wine. Since it is red and fortified, it is tempting to compare Banyuls to Port. But there are differences, such as lower alcohol and a slightly lighter style. A fine example comes from one of the estates of the Dauré family, one of the Roussillon’s leading producers. The 2009 Les Clos de Paulilles “Rimage” (500 ml, $25) does bear a resemblance to Vintage Port with its blackberry, cherry fruit and chocolate notes.

 

Muscat de Saint Jean de Minervois

 

Muscat de Saint Jean de Minervois is one of the most important muscat based Vin Doux Naturel. It comes from high altitude vineyards on an arid plain near the Languedoc community of the same name and north of the historic town of Narbonne. The wine is made with muscat blanc à petit grains, the best of the many muscat varieties. I found the nonvintage Les Petit Grains (375 ml, $14), from Les Vignerons de la Méditerranée (the growers association responsible for the good value Val d’Orbieu wines) to be a fine representative of the appellation. Its dramatic aromatics and fruit forward apricot, citrus and honey qualities are enticingly satisfying.

 

Muscat de Rivesaltes

 

In the Rousillon region, neighbor to the Pyrenees Mountains that form the border with Spain, Muscat de Rivesaltes is an appellation that accounts for most of France’s Muscat production. The Dauré family’s other estate, Château de Jau (which dates to 1792) is a standard bearer in the Rousillon and its Muscat de Rivesaltes is a fine example of the type. Although much Rivesaltes is made with the lesser muscat of Alexandria, the 2009 Chateau de Jau Muscat de Rivesaltes (500 ml, $25) is distinguished by the use of muscat blanc à petit grains. It is similar to the Les Petit Grains, though in a lighter, more refreshing style.

 

Sauternes

 

Many consider Sauternes the greatest of all sweet wines. The production zone is located just south of Bordeaux. This storied wine results from the marriage of late harvested semillon (with small amounts of sauvignon blanc or occasionally muscadelle), and the amazing “noble rot” known as botrytis cinerea. This leads to deeply concentrated juice that yields luscious nectar of a wine – honeyed, earthy and even a little spicy. For a great introduction to the wonders of Sauternes at a fair price, enjoy the 2008 Château de Cosse (375 ml, $25), This is the second wine of the great Château Rieussec. Yet it carries all of the qualities one would look for in fine Sauternes.

 

Tokaji Aszu

 

Although it is largely unknown among American consumers, Tokaji Aszu (pronounced TOE-keye-ee AH-zhu) is one of the greatest sweet wines on the planet. The Tokaj-Hegyalja region is about 150 miles northeast of Budapest, Hungary in the Zemplen Mountains at the confluence of the Tisza and Bodrog rivers. It is here, not France or Germany, where the first discovery of the botrytis cinerea (the “noble rot”) was documented over 400 years ago, when it was realized the juice from rotten grapes could produce an unctuous, sweet wine. Tokaji Aszu is crafted from indigenous grapes – primarily furmint, harslevelu and muscat blanc. Its unique production method involves blending a dry base wine with a sweet paste of aszu (the botrytis-infected grapes) in various proportions. The amount of residual sugar in the wine is ranked in levels ranging from 3 puttonyos up to 6 puttonyos. No surprise Tokaji Aszu became celebrated, favored by royal families throughout Europe. It’s rich, thick and refreshing because of the high acidity, with the flavors of dried apricots and oranges.

 

Today, the Royal Tokaji Wine Company, founded just in 1990, is the most importantproducer of Tokaji Aszu and lucky for us the most readily available in America. These wines can be ridiculously expensive, so it is a real treat to find such quality at reasonably accessible prices. The 2007 5 Puttonyos “Red Label” (500 ml, $43) is a wine for superlatives. Amazingly luscious but lively, balanced and refreshing, you are likely to discern tropical, apricot, peach, and orange aromas and flavors. Intriguing hints of honey and earth cross the rich palate balanced with firming acidity. The 2009 Mád Cuvée Late Harvest (375 ml, $20) is made from vineyards near the town of Mád not far from Tokaj. It is lighter and fresher but definitely has a sense of richness – an excellent introduction to the style, exhibiting a fine balance between fruity sweetness and taut acidity.

 

 

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THE PEOPLE’S PALATE WEEKLY WINE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR DECEMBER 9, 2012

For this People’s Palate Weekly Wine Recommendations, I feature two types of wine that are ideal choices for holiday meals and festivities.

 

The white is a Vinho Verde from the region of the same name in northwestern Portugal. Vinho Verde translates to “green wine” and for good reason. The cool, wet climate and granite soils here present growers a challenge to harvest ripe grapes. Those that do produce a pleasantly aromatic, light bodied wine that is high in acid, (sometimes with a bit of fizz on the tongue), and brisk apple and citrus fruit, occasionally accented with mineral or savory elements. Low in alcohol, they are perfect as an aperitif and with lighter dishes.

 

There are about half a dozen key grapes used in varying proportions and many of the finished wines are bottled nonvintage – blended from more than one harvest. Arguably alvarinho is the finest of these. Actually, alvarinho is the Portuguese name for the albarino grape grown in nearby Galicia across the border in Spain.  Compared to other Vinho Verde, it yields a more fragrant, full-bodied, wine that is higher in alcohol and can reveal quite a bit of richness and character.

 

This certainly proved the case with this week’s selection – the 2011 Vera Alvarinho Vinho Verde ($16). The Vera is 100% alvarihno from vineyards in a warmer, drier area. There is a slight tingle on the tongue, followed by rich flavors of ripe apple, lemon and lime. This depth of fruit is balanced with bright acidity and the wine finishes with spice notes. Enticing now, this is a wine with enough character to age and for a few years.

 


 

I actually have another fun VV choice for you – the Broadbent Vinho Verde ($10). This delightfulwine (at a great price) opens with the impression of a light sparkling wine and that is confirmed in the mouth with fairly significant spritz. A touch of fresh green apple and a clean finish makes this a great quaffer. This is a nonvintage wine, so look on the back label for the “Seal of Guarantee” (Selo de Garantia) and the “/2011” notation.

 

My red wine choice this week is Beaujolais. My first offering is the Beaujolais Nouveau from Georges Duboeuf. This time of year, Beaujolais is a choice red wine option and Beaujolais Nouveau is especially fun. Every year, on the third Thursday of November, the Beaujolais Nouveau is released to great fanfare, as it is traditionally the first wine of the new harvest.

 

Coincidentally available just in time for the holidays, the 2012 Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau ($10) is one of the most widely available and always a good choice. The color is a deep purplish ruby and the wine mimics that impression with vibrant, forward berry fruit, balanced with good structure. It is best served chilled.

 

But Nouveau isn’t your only Beaujolais option. There are 12 different Beaujolais appellations, 10 of which are associated with a key village and are known as “Crus” to designate the region’s most celebrated and unique wines. Gamay is the primary varietal of Beaujolais, representing 99 percent of the region’s wines. Beyond Beaujolais, cultivation of gamay is rare, making drinking the region’s wines a unique experience.

 

The Beaujolais region is actually part of the Burgundy region. It is located in the south of Burgundy just north of Lyon in eastern France. Granite soils, some laced with limestone and clay, and abundant sunshine provide an environment in which the grapes develop deep fruit and a solid structure.

 

From Duboeuf, you can’t go wrong with the 2011 Morgon “Jean Descombes” ($16). The Jean Descombes is a perennial favorite of mine. It has loads of black cherry and plum fruit and finishes with and intriguingly savory element.

 

My other Beaujolais selection comes from Louis Jadot, the iconic Burgundy producer – 2010 Louis Jadot Moulin-à-Vent “Château des Jacques” ($22). Maison Louis Jadot bought the Château des Jacques in 1996 and produces several Moulin à Vent, Fleurie, Morgon, and Chenas under this label. This wine is quite full-bodied, with deep black cherry fruit and savory brown spices. The plump texture is buttressed with noticeable tannin. If for some reason you don’t drink it up now, this one definitely can develop over the next several years.

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THE PEOPLES PALATE: WEEKLY WINE RECOMMENDATIONS

THE PEOPLES PALATE: WEEKLY WINE RECOMMENDATIONS 

(for the week of November 25, 2012)

 

Tio Pepe “Fino en Rama” ($25)

 

Tio Pepe is the well-known brand of Sherry produced by Spain’s Gonzalez & Byass, one of the nation’s oldest Sherry producers, having been established in 1835 in Jerez.

 

Sherry, of course, is the fortified wine produced in the area lying between Jerez de la Frontera, Puerto de Santa María and San Lucar de Barrameda in southern Spain. Fino is the light, dry style of Sherry achieved by vinification of the palomino grapes under a coating of yeast (called “flor”) that forms on the aging wine and prevents it from oxidizing. Then, the use of the solera system to blend different vintages lends complexity to the finished wine.

 

Fino en Rama is a specific version of Fino intended to be as fresh and pure as possible (“en rama” can translate as “raw”). This is achieved by minimal treatment of the wine after it is removed from cask. This year, the Tio Pepe Fino en Rama celebrates the 200th anniversary of the birth of Manuel Maria Gonzalez, the producer’s founder.

 

This Tio Pepe comes from the finest four casks selected in the spring, when the flor is at its thickest. And critically, unlike most other Sherry (even some en rama), this wine is unfined and unfiltered. Nothing is added to clarify the juice or to filter dissolved solids; these are achieved mostly with settling. So you get all the natural components of the original wine and more complexity than the typical Fino (which is normally fined and filtered to stabilize it for transport).

 

The resulting wine opens with hints of butterscotch and caramel aromas accented by lemon, spice, minerals, and that trademark almond character. The palate is fresh, tangy and savory. It shows admirable finesse, even delicacy on the palate but at 15% alcohol, it still finishes with a kick.

 

Fino en Rama (even more so that a regular Fino) is best drunk shortly after bottling. It should be served chilled, refrigerated after opening and drunk within three months. It makes a fine aperitif. It is perfect for cheese, fish, Asian food, egg dishes, nuts and, what else, tapas.

 

Only about 200 cases of this special wine is available in the U.S.; so look for it now.

 

2010 Domaine du Pré Baron Sauvignon Touraine ($12)

 

For most folks, the Loire Valley probably is mostly associated with the dozens of dramatic medieval chateau dotted along the Loire River. For those of us fascinated with wine, it is more importantly a key wine region in France. Although the Loire often is overshadowed by Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne and the Rhone Valley, the region produces an amazing diversity of wines well worth any wine lover’s investigation.

 

Take for instance Sauvignon Blanc. Some know it likely originated in Bordeaux where it has achieved acclaim among connoisseurs, especially those from the Graves district, where it is blended with semillon. But I might argue it has achieved a purer expression in the Loire Valley. And certainly Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume, districts located at the eastern end of the valley, have achieved well-deserved recognition for their renditions.

 

I will be writing more about those wines and others from the Loire Valley in the coming months but here I present an excellent choice for you to experience a fine Loire Sauvignon at an everyday price.

 

The best source for such value priced Sauvignon is the Touraine district, which lies at the center of the Loire Valley. Named after the city of Tours, it stretches along the Loire River and is the Valley’s largest district. “Touraine” also is the regional appellation (sort of like “Sonoma” on a California label).

 

Sauvignon Blanc typically is quite aromatic, light, fresh and lively, with invigorating acidity. Its flavor profile includes prominent herbal notes (sometimes even described as grassy) and fruit notes of citrus, grapefruit and sometimes gooseberry (as often seems most pronounced with New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc). In the Touraine, the mostly sandy clay, occasionally flinty soils, yield racy wines that can show some minerality.

 

Touraine de Sauvignon (as it is technically known) may not have quite the complexity or refinement of Sancerre or Pouilly Fumé but from a dedicated grower (like the Mardon family of Pré Baron) it can be eminently satisfying. And with attractive pricing, it is a more than reasonable alternative to its more expensive relatives.

 

This wine, made without the use of oak, shows really nice spicy herb flecked citrus notes and a touch of flinty, smoky aromas. The palate has a fair amount of weight, which carries nice orange and lemon flavors. It is crisp and lively, perfect for light dishes, including chicken, fish and shellfish, and even salads.