Category: Recommendations

There is a cornucopia of budget friendly, Italian white wines – small production, regional, native varieties – that are ideal for warm weather drinking. If there is a common thread along the peninsula, these all offer dramatic aromas and crisp, refreshing character. 

Pinot Grigio. If you are used to American Pinot Grigio, recalibrate your expectations. These northern Italian wines, show more weight, tangy pear, apple, peach, and hints of mineral: 2025 Riff ($13) from Alois Lageder, organically farmed from Tre Venezie in the Veneto. From Friuli Venezia Giulia, specifically Collio microclimate: 2024 Attems ($17) from Tuscany’s Marchesi Frescobaldi and 2022 Borgo Conventi ($22) from the owners of Villa Sandi impress with layered and textural profiles.

Sauvignon Blanc. Sometimes simply labeled Sauvignon, in northern Italy it leans to crisp, green apple, citrus, and subtle herbaceousness, celebrated for its aromatic complexity, vibrant acidity, and elegant minerality: 2025 San Leonardo “Vette” ($25) from one of Italy’s most prestigious and historic (300 years) family-owned wine estates, and the savory 2024 Borgo Conventi ($22). 

Vermentino. Grown mostly in Sardinia, Liguria and the western coast of Tuscany; think crisp, citrus, apple, suggestions of sea air: 2024 Aia Vecchia ($16) from the Bolgheri subregion; 2024 Massovivo ($22) from the Frescobaldi estate Tenuta Ammiraglia; Riva de la Rosa ($13) imported by California’s Riboli Family Wines.

Verdicchio. The signature white grape of the Marche region typically features delightfully brisk citrus, melon, and stone fruit. From the region’s oldest family-owned winery, Garofoli (1901): the complex, savory, elegant 2025 “Macrina” Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore ($20) and the fresh, fragrant, mineral 2025 “Aelya” Matelica ($21). 

Pecorino. In Abruzzo, the ancient local grape pecorino, thought to be extinct but recently resurrected, produces typically invigorating, fuller, but still delicate and balanced wines: 2024 Poggio Salaia “Torre Sambra” ($19) from an estate first cultivated in 1910; organic, vegan friendly.

Carricante. This white variety grows on the northern slopes of the Mt. Etna volcano in Sicily where the late-ripening berries develop a range of fruit, mineral and savory flavors: 2025 Tenuta Tascante Buonora ($32) from the Tasca family that has been farming grapes in Sicily for more than 150 years and is now a leader in Etna viticulture.

Inzolia. One of the most traditional white grapes of Sicily, often used in Marsala production, it also shines as a dry varietal wine. The precise, aromatic 2024 Sallier de La Tour ($17) from a  historic estate (1909) now is managed by the Tasca d’Almerita family. 

As “Father’s Day approaches, you might be thinking of giving dad a wine gift. While it may seem a bit of a stereotype that men prefer red wine, there is evidence this is true. So, here are some recommendations for your wine loving dad.

Cabernet Sauvignon continues to be the most popular. But instead of defaulting to Napa Valley, I suggest Paso Robles. Specifically, these from DAOU. Soul of a Lion (2023, $150), is produced from the estate in the prized Adelaida District, as a tribute to the DAOU founder’s father, in a lavish style that offers sweet berry fruit coated with vanilla oak and delivered with a lush mouthfeel.

Two DAOU Reserves combine fruit from the estate and select Paso Robles AVAs: 2022 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($60) blackberry, raspberry, plum, accented by licorice, thyme, vanilla, cocoa, cedar, rounded tannins; and 2022 Seventeen Forty ($80), a Bordeaux-inspired blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, and petit verdot, displays sweet dark berries and plum, coffee, vanilla, sage, mocha, and refined tannins.

After years in the shadows, Syrah is having a moment, emerging as a compelling option for red wine lovers. These first two are rich and powerful expressions shaped by terroir, climate and skillful winemaking. 

The 2022 Arkenstone Estate ($195) is organically grown on hillside slopes of Napa Valley’s Howell Mountain. It impresses with enveloping dark berry, plum, cocoa, olives, cured meat, and earth; a full-bodied, dynamic mouthfeel, polished tannins, and savory, peppery finish. The 2021 Bouchaine Estate ($125), from Napa’s cool-climate Carneros, opens with dense blackberry, black cherry, black pepper with hints of bacon, and licorice, but with nuance from aging in oak and on the lees. 

Santa Barbara also produces fine Syrah. A good of example is the 2023 Demetria Estate North Slope ($55). Family-owned in the Santa Ynez Valley, the hillside estate vineyard benefits from regenerative, biodynamic farming. A nod to the traditional Côte-Rôtie in the Northern Rhône, as it is supplemented with 5% viognier, it is vibrant, fresh with raspberry, chocolate, black pepper and an elegant palate.

Washington State has established itself as a Syrah leader. The 2022 Spring Valley “Nina Lee” ($65) is from a property in Walla Walla with an agricultural history dating to the mid-1850s and its first vintage in 1993. It impresses with bright cherry, hint of tobacco, strong structure and a pleasing mineral note.

While consumer white wine continues to be Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc enjoys an increasingly strong second place. It is one of the world’s most widely planted grape varieties, originating in Bordeaux and the Loire Valley, also notable in New Zealand, Chile, South Africa, and Australia. 

The grape’s flavor profile comes in several styles, though it’s usually assertively aromatic, with refreshing acidity. Generally, expect brisk green citrus but also other citrus (grapefruit) and occasionally stone fruit and a distinctive (sometimes spicy) herbaceousness. Riper wines fruit often display melon, nectarine, peach, or even tropical fruits. 

NOTE: These California wines are listed in order of preference within each category but all are recommended. 

There are many good values. These tend to be ebullient and spry with the focus on varietal fruit but all display the grape’s trademark character. Most of the wines are fermented and aged in stainless steel to emphasize freshness, while some use various amounts of mostly neutral oak to round out flavors and texture. 

• 2024 Rodney Strong Alexander Valley ($25) some time with oak and yeast compliment vibrant peach, tropical fruit, almond
• 2024 Matanzas Creek Sonoma County ($25) crisp, grapefruit, fresh herb
• 2023 Markham Napa Valley ($24) fresh grapefruit, lemon, tangy, stony note 
• 2024 Charles Krug Napa Valley ($23) zesty citrus, melon, lemongrass
• 2024 Brassfield High Valley ($22) pleasant lemon, grapefruit, tropical fruit
• 2024 Cuvaison Carneros ($28) estate fruit; juicy tropical fruit, spicy herb 

As consumer friendly as those wines are, for a few extra dollars, I found more complexity, intensity and flavor interest as prices escalated. 

• 2024 Brandlin Estate Mt. Veeder ($50) richness, complexity from mountain grown fruit; fermentation and aging in large oak barrels gives texture and depth; juicy tropical flavors, mineral notes
• 2022 Cliff Lede Napa Valley ($38) richness from semillon, intensity and aromatics from old vine musqué clone of sauvignon blanc; unctuousness from barrel fermentation and aging 
• 2024 Beaulieu Vineyard Napa Valley ($40) first sauvignon blanc from famous cabernet sauvignon producer; some time with oak and yeast add complexity and rich texture; lively lemon, peach, toast, almond
• 2024 Freemark Abbey ($35) refreshing citrus, stone fruit, bright yet polished
• 2024 Priest Ranch “Block 71” Napa Valley ($38) peach, melon, tropical fruit, mineral
• 2021 Duckhorn North Coast ($32) with semillon; bright citrus, tropical fruits 
• 2023 Whitehall Lane Napa Valley ($30) some time with oak and yeast add complexity and rich texture to its crisp citrus, pear, fig, tropical, biscuit

Cabernet Sauvignon from California (especially Napa Valley) wasn’t always the most popular red wine in America. Having established its pedigree centuries ago as a foundation of Bordeaux, the grape began to be planted in Napa Valley in the late 1800’s. Following Prohibition, the quality of Napa Cabernet gained increased attention. Then, in 1976, a Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Cabernet placed first at the “Judgement of Paris” and other Napa Cabs showed well. The prestige of Napa Cabernet has only grown since.

But over time a trend evolved of overripe and over oaked wines, borderline sweet, with excessive weight, power and softness that mask terroir. The recommended wines below, listed in order of my preference, show harmony, balance, intensity with subtlety, nuances of mineral and earth, oak as a complement, and solid structure.

2022 Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour Private Reserve ($180) celebrated estate founded in 1900 came to international fame after renowned winemaker André Tchelistcheff joined in 1938; herbaceous, earthy accents, enticing red fruits and cedar 

2021 Turnbull Oakville Reserve ($110) all estate winery; exceptional blend of select lots; impresses with mixed dark berries, loamy earth, fresh, velvety, powdery tannins, broad palate 

2022 Chappellet Signature ($95) at the peak of Pritchard Hill, one of Napa’s finest wineries produces benchmark mountain grown wines; concentrated, abundant berry elements, cedar, cocoa, graphite, tobacco, oak spice, silky texture 

2022 Revana Napa Valley ($125) Cabernet specialist; sourced from specially selected 

estate vineyards; rich dark currant, tobacco, loamy soil, cocoa, texture shows a sense of airiness 

2021 Freemark Abbey Napa Valley ($75) second Napa winery founded by a woman (1886); impressed at the Judgement of Paris; sourced from specially selected sites; dark fruits, cedar, oak spice, leather, well structured, rich texture 

2021 Silver Oak Napa Valley ($165) founded in 1972 by Coloradan Ray Duncan and Christian Brothers winemaker Justin Meyer; deep, slightly sweet berries, licorice, aging in American oak adds signature coconut, supple texture

2022 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Artemis ($75) grapes from select Napa vineyards combined with estate-grown fruit; pretty cherry, elegant structure, some richness 

 2022 Sullivan Coeur de Vigne ($95) property dates to 1821 but winery was established in 1972 with planting guided by Andre Tchelistcheff; concentrated cherry, sage, plum, cassis, tobacco, cedar, velvety mouthfeel 

2022 Stags’ Leap Winery ($65) grapes were first planted here in 1873; 100 years later the modern winery began production; lively, black and red berries, fresh powdery tannin

Despite its generally recognized wine characteristics of butter, vanilla, rich texture, citrus, apple, tropical fruit, etc., the chardonnay grape presents essentially a blank slate for producers. Sometimes this unfortunately means winemakers are tempted to imprint their own personality or react to perceived consumer preferences. But with the wines below winemakers attempt to express the source and the personality of the grape. 

Anderson Valley

2023 Dutcher Crossing Ferrington ($49) highly regarded vineyard; tart apple, pear, citrus, light oak, balancing acidity

2023 Kendall-Jackson Sable Mountain ($50) high elevation vineyard; delicate stone and tropical fruit, vanilla, Asian spice, rounded finish

Sonoma Coast

2022 Sonoma-Cutrer Les Pierres ($46) premium selection from rocky estate vineyard; ripe pear, apple, roasted hazelnut, rich, butter pastry 

Russian River Valley

2023 Davis Bynum River West Vineyard ($30) vineyard in the Middle Reach of the valley; bracing citrus, peach and tangerine, spicy accent 

2023 J Vineyards ($40) sourced from top vineyards throughout the appellation; zesty lemon, pear, pineapple, hint of ginger, supple finish 

Carneros

2023 Cuvaison Kite Tail ($70) special old vine lot from estate Tai vineyard; brilliant citrus, peach, toasty vanilla, creamy mouthfeel

2024 Frank Family ($40) blend of winery’s Lewis Vineyard, famed Winery Lake, Beckstoffer, and Sangiacomo fruit; beautiful zesty lemon, tropical fruit, hints of vanilla, brioche

2023 Bouchaine Estate ($40) blend of the estate’s best blocks; noticeable creamy oak, fresh apple, juicy grapefruit, light toast 

2023 Bouchaine Unoaked ($40) old vine estate fruit fermented and aged without wood barrels, secondary fermentation or lees stirring; apple, lemon, pear leap from the glass 

Central Coast

2023 Bernardus ($30) from select vineyards throughout Monterey County; broad spicy, apple, pear, citrus pastry 

2023 Daou Reserve Willow Creek District ($52) cool, maritime influenced region home to some of Paso Robles finest wineries; ripe, lemon, honeysuckle, vanilla, rich texture

2022 Talley Rosemary’s Vineyard ($70) estate vineyard in Arroyo Grande Valley bordering the Pacific; vibrant, intense citrus, stone fruit, salty ocean note, creamy, spectacular 

2023 Kendal-Jackson Camelot Highlands ($50) high elevation vineyard with 40 year old vines in the Santa Maria Valley; juicy citrus, peach, nice touch of toasty oak

2023 The Hilt Estate Sta. Rita Hills ($50) Pacific Ocean influenced climate and soils; sea spray, exciting lime, apricot, seashells, broad palate, creamy rich

2023 Alma Rosa Sta. Rita Hills ($38) El Jabali estate vineyard; oceanic minerality, precise, honeyed citrus, pear, supple, seamless 

2024 Diatom Santa Barbara County ($25) no oak, pure citrus, melon and stone fruit, saline note, herbal tone, supple, fantastic value 

Over the years, Pinot Noir in California has had its ups and downs. But these days, you can find outstanding wines in just about every region the length of the state. Seek out as many the wines below as you can find. 

Anderson Valley 

Nestled amidst the rugged alluvial ridges and towering redwoods of coastal Mendocino County, the far-flung Anderson Valley is celebrated for producing cool-climate wines of outstanding quality. 

2022 Goldeneye Gowan Creek ($90) estate vineyard part of the Duckhorn portfolio; focused, juicy dark berries licorice, toasty oak 

2023 Kendall Jackson Outland Ridge ($60) high eastern ridge vineyard; lavish dark berries, tea, mushrooms, allspice

Russian River Valley

Fog and breezes from the Pacific Ocean and the river are moderated by a bit more sun, encouraging wines with bright red fruit capable of balancing fruit intensity with supple structure. The wines produced 

2021 Ram’s Gate Bush Crispo Vineyard ($80) vineyard located in the acclaimed Olivet Lane district; dense red fruit, tea, spicy, robust impact but elegant structure

2020 B. Wise Silver Eagle Vineyard ($75) limited release from a vineyard located on a plateau separating the Russian River Valley from the Sonoma Coast; raspberry, plum, wet earth, white pepper, toasty oak, smooth texture

2021 Arista ($70) blends several cool climate vineyards from across the appellation; intense, vibrant dark fruit, anise, spice, firm texture 

2022 Bricoleur ($65) inviting red fruits, hibiscus, tobacco, exotic spice, bright finish 

Petaluma Gap

Marked by Pacific Ocean fog and steady winds funneled west to east in southern Sonoma County to the San Pablo Bay, the Petaluma Gap creates an ideal cool-climate setting for producing vibrant and expressive wines.

2023 Kendall Jackson Cloud Landing ($55) located between San Pablo Bay and Pacific Ocean; concentrated, lively dark cherries, forest floor, baking spice, fine grained tannins

Sonoma Coast

A large appellation mostly featuring similar cool climate conditions in various microclimates and high elevation vineyards, though often with more rainfall. The Sonoma Coast AVA extends from San Pablo Bay to the border with Mendocino County. 

2021 Three Sticks Gap’s Crown Vineyard ($75) one of Three Sticks’ “Heritage Vineyards” in located on the western slope of Sonoma Mountain in what now is known as the Petaluma Gap; packed with all sorts of juicy red and dark berry fruit, impressive richness, touch of earth, warm spices, balanced with supple tannins

Carneros

Straddling southern Napa and Sonoma, Carneros is distinguished by the cooling influences of the San Pablo Bay and Pacific Ocean: foggy mornings and breezy, sun-soaked afternoons. 

2022 Bouchaine Estate ($50) the oldest continuously family-owned property in Napa’s Carneros; red fruit, herbal shades, soft palate

2023 Cuvaison Mariafeld ($80) unique Swiss clone produces vibrant, deep, dynamic red fruits, silky texture 

Santa Lucia Highlands

Just inland from the Monterey Bay, the vineyards of the Santa Lucia Highlands are planted on the hillsides of the Santa Lucia mountain range overlooking the Salinas Valley. There are many fine, pricy wines being produced from here. 

2022 Rombauer Vineyards ($55) blend of eight vineyards; rich red cherry, plum, tea, light creamy note

Arroyo Grande Valley

At the southern end of San Louis Obispo County, in California’s Central Coast, the Arroyo Grande Valley is often overlooked but some fine Pinot Noir is made here. Just a few miles from the Pacific, this is California’s coolest wine growing region. Grapes are influenced by the marine conditions making cool, complex, balanced wines.

2023 Talley Vineyards Rosemary’s Vineyard ($90) Talley estate vineyard in view of Pacific Ocean; juicy, ripe red and dark fruit, herbs, savory spice, elegant, chalky texture 

Santa Rita Hills

In Santa Barbara County, the Santa Ynez Valley, especially Santa Rita Hills is notable for its west-east orientation, which funnels cooling Pacific Ocean breezes throughout the valley, has developed a reputation for top Pinot Noir. Also, experiencing marine influences, leading to vivacious, silken wines.

2021 Alma Rosa Barrel Select ($90) special selection from the El Jabali estate vineyard; nicely concentrated, bright red fruit, luscious acidity, earthy notes, 

well-structured, chalky tannins

2023 The Hilt Estate ($50) blend of rich, juicy fruit from Bentrock estate and opulent, and intense fruit from Radian estate; lively dark fruit, savory, fine structure 

Some of my favorite wines anywhere have their origin in the south of France, especially the Rhône Valley. The valley, which runs roughly from Vienne in the north to Avignon in the south, is divided geographically and viticulturally into two regions – north and south. Most Rhône wines are red, though there are a few notable whites. 

The north is syrah country. The best wines tend toward substance and power, intensely concentrated fruit, pepper and strong tannins. The two leading appellations – Hermitage and Côte Rôtie – are among the most prestigious wines anywhere. But this makes their prices almost uniformly out of reach for most.

Not far behind in quality but more accessible in price is Cornas. A good example is the 2019 Vincent Paris “Granit 30” ($50): bright red and black fruit, concentrated but fresh, balanced with floral, mineral and savory notes, robust yet supple textured.

Other appellations vying for a place at the alternative table include St. Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage. The 2018 Tardieu-Laurent Crozes-Hermitage “Vieilles Vignes” ($35) is a particularly nice bottle of black fruits, herb, stone, white pepper, and floral notes glide along a silky palate.

The southern Rhône also has several appellations of interest, the most famous being Châteauneuf du Pape. In contrast to the northern Rhône, grenache is the most prominent grape and most of the wines are blends adding proportions of syrah mourvèdre and smaller amounts of cinsault, carignan and others. 

Arguably the best after Châteauneuf is Gigondas. Its vineyards often produce earthy wines of good structure. Like the 2017 Domaine St. Gayan “Origine” ($35): approachable, cherries, red plum, currant, cinnamon, supple tannins. 

Near Gigondas, Costières de Nîmes is a hidden treasure and a reliable source of value. Red blends dominate; syrah is the main variety, with grenache and mourvèdre, and small amounts of cinsault and carignan. My tasting revealed a fine 2019 Château Mourgues du Grès “Galets Rouges” ($18): savory and spicy notes in addition to violets, red fruit and dark berries; and organically grown 2018 Château Mourgues du Grès “Terre d’Argence” ($17): cassis, plum, stony, supple, chalky tannins. 

Costières de Nîmes white wines, also mostly blends, are as diverse and unique as its reds. The most common grapes include grenache blanc, viognier, marsanne, and roussanne. I enjoyed the 2022 Château De Valcombe “Chateau Blanc” ($13): fruity, pear, apple, anise, supple, round; and 2019 Domaine Gassier “Nostre Païs Blanc” ($17): fresh, lively, apple, orange, silky texture. 

Wines blended from different vineyards throughout the valley labeled Côtes du Rhône can be some of the best red wine values in the world. Solid, flavorful and tannic, they are great for everyday. Two good examples are the aromatic, minty, mellow 2017 Vidal-Fleury ($15); and 2019 Domaine Saint Gayan “Trescartes” ($15): juicy black cherry, earthy richness.

While sparkling wine is the wine of choice for special occasions, bubbly can be enjoyed any time and on any occasion. But you likely will want a sparkler that doesn’t carry the price tag of Champagne. Luckily, interesting, delicious and affordable sparkling wine is made just about everywhere on the planet. Often the Champagne grape varieties of pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier are used, though many experiment with other varieties. I offer several from Italy, a couple from France and several from California to give you a head start. (NOTE: All are nonvintage, unless otherwise state.)

Outside of Champagne, French Méthode Champenois (or Méthode Traditionelle) is known as Crémant and is a fine value. Crémant De Limoux from the Languedoc region typically is distinguished with the addition of chenin blanc. The Côté Mas “M” Brut ($13) is 60% chardonnay, 20% chenin blanc, 10% pinot noir, and 10% mauzac – citrus, green apple, pear, creamy texture. 

In Italy, it’s Metodo Classico. Franciacorta, from Lombardy, produces ripe, precise, complex, and silky bubbles. The 2017 Corte Bianca Rose Extra Brut ($48) is 80% pinot nero (noir), 20% chardonnay with a structure balanced between briskness and fullness, persistence, red berries, vanilla and mineral. The 1701 winery’s 2018 “Saten” Brut ($38) is 100% chardonnay, dry, fresh, with apple, orange, lemon and a salty note.

Alta Langa from southern Piedmont reportedly was Italy’s first sparkling wine, dating to the mid-1800s. The 2018 Enrico Serafino “Oudeis” Brut ($30), 80% pinot noir, 20% chardonnay, offers refined citrus, light toast, elegant palate and admirable complexity.

California also makes many fine sparkling wines. Most of the best use the traditional method and Champagne grapes pinot noir, chardonnay, pinot meunier. 

Frank Family. A premier Napa Valley producer since its establishment in 1992, these wines are sourced from its acclaimed Lewis Vineyard in Carneros: 2016 Blanc de Blancs ($60), 100% chardonnay; lively citrus, delicate, rich; 2017 Brut Rosé ($60) 100% pinot noir; complex red berries, citrus, full, yet refined texture.

Laetitia. Another longtime favorite of mine. From the Arroyo Grande Valley in California’s Central Coast, these Estate grown bubbles are especially affordable. The Brut Cuvee RM ($29), 67% chardonnay, 33% pinot noir, offers apple, brioche, creamy lemon and toasty notes. The 2020 Brut Rosé RM ($29) 65% chardonnay, 35% pinot noir leans to strawberry, peach, and fresh bread. 

Seppi. This is a new one to me and the wines are impressive. The debut project from Kelsey Phelps Finch, granddaughter of Napa Valley pioneer Joseph Phelps. The 2018 Blanc de Blancs ($48), 100% chardonnay, presents crisp green apple, grapefruit, toasted brioche and richness. The 2018 Brut Rosé ($52), 95% chardonnay, 5% pinot noir, shows raspberry with apple, pear and hints of baking spices.

While there’s a tradition of presenting special holiday gifts, special often just means expensive. A wine gift, for instance, is even more special if it is something distinctive. I’ve tasted two such table wines that fit that description. 

2019 Donnafugata “Mille e una Notte” ($91) From a 40-year-old winery and a family with 170 years’ experience winemaking in Sicily; a blend of mostly nero d’avola, petit verdot, syrah. Loads of dark fruits (cherry, currant, plum) meld with olive, spice, cocoa and a hint of licorice in a richly concentrated wine that will surprise anyone. 

2012 Bertani Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico ($130) From a benchmark Valpolicella producer (since 1857) and creator of the first Amarone in 1958. Native corvina (80%) and rondinella are dried for 99 days to concentrate the juice which then is aged eight years. The result is juicy dark red fruits – berries, plums, currants, notes of anise, balsamic, dried herb, mineral, smoke, earth, savory spice. A wine of intensity and dramatic richness, but with fine definition and elegant tannins.

After dinner and dessert wines certainly fit the special description. 

2016 Dolce ($100, 375 ml) From a premier Napa Valley winery that focuses on (of course) on Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, this late harvest wine (88% sémillon, 12% sauvignon blanc from winery owned vineyards solely dedicated to this wine) is modeled after France’s Sauternes. Aging 28 months in 100% new oak imparts luxurious notes of crème brûlée, vanilla and light cinnamon to balance unctuous, lively apricot, pear, and honeysuckle.

2016 Domaine Sigalas Vinsanto ($100) From one of Greece’s finest producers and the flagship grape variety of the Greek island of Santorini, assyrtiko, along with 25% aidini. While assyrtiko is mostly made into a diverse range of refreshing white wines, its typical texture, acidity, and minerality, make it ideal for Vinsanto, a naturally sweet wine from sun dried grapes. After long fermentation and aging in oak barrels seven years, a succulent mix of fig, raisin, spice, molasses, hazelnut, butterscotch, maple, and honey, emerge with luscious elegance.

Pio Cesare Barolo Chinato ($110) From one of Piedmont’s most highly regarded producers, this is a “digestif”, traditionally drunk after a meal to aid digestion. Though there is little scientific evidence of medicinal properties, digestifs still are widely popular. This one uses an ancient family recipe: an infusion of chinchona (China Calissaja and Succirubra barks that contains quinine), macerated for 21 days in a small amount of Barolo, plus a mixture of aromatic herbs, including gentian roots, rhubarb, cardamom seeds, sweet and bitter orange, cinnamon. The result drinks with impressive purity and definition, at times displaying each of those ingredients. At just 16% ABV, it is sweet, fresh, and rich, it’s delightful neat and served with dark chocolate dessert or ice cream.

Colorado Wine has been growing and improving by large leaps over the last thirty years. Which is especially welcome this time of year as wine from Colorado makes a fine holiday gift. 

A good place to start is with the 2023 Governor’s Cup Wine Collection winners (https://coloradowine.com/governors-cup/) (all made from Colorado grapes, honey, or other fruit). The winning wineries include Alfred Eames, Balistreri, BookCliff, Dragon Meadery, Restoration, Sauvage Spectrum, Snowy Peaks, Peachfork and Storm Cellar. 

Look for these and other Colorado wines at local shops or online. And of course, the Winery at Holy Cross Abbey is just down the road. You could travel to the Western Slope. 

You also can go to Denver to pick up Balistreri’s award-winning Syrah-CSU Vineyard. At their north Denver winery, winemaker John, his wife Birdie and daughter Julie offer tastings, tours, a fine lunch seven days a week, and space for special events. 

I also recommend a visit to nearby Spero Winery. Spero is open for free tasting on Saturdays 1-5 p.m. or by appointment. And expect complimentary cheese and deli meats available to accompany your tastes. They also can accommodate private tastings, group visits, and special events. 

Another family endeavor, Clyde is the winemaker and his wife June (who is John Balistreri’s sister) manages the business (and just about everything else). The wines I tasted during my visit – Gewurztraminer, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc – fit the style Clyde said he seeks, robust and fruit forward. 

One thing I found fascinating during my conversations with both families is that both John (since 1998) and Clyde (since 1999) have always made their wines using more “traditional” approaches. Clyde uses sulfites sparingly, doesn’t rack or fine his wines, and ages the reds at least two years in barrel.

John goes even further fermenting the grapes with their own yeast and eschewing sulfites, additives, filtering and fining, Basically what these days is called “natural winemaking”. 

Both make their white wines fermenting the juice on their skins, an ancient way of making wine. Skin contact wines (recently dubbed “orange wine”) typically have a golden tint, tart and nutty flavors, and more body than the typical white wine. 

Many in the wine industry praise “maverick” winemakers producing “natural wine” and “orange wine” like they are something new. Clyde and John were making such low intervention wines long before they became fashionable.

One thing for sure, these are not bland, homogenous wines. They are bold, fruity and (to me pleasantly) spicy. And one thing for sure these families know hospitality. Taking care of their customers seems to just be in their blood. And maybe most impressive is that Clyde is 85 and John is 81. Thankfully, they get up every day to make fine wine for us.