Category: Recommendations

Whether you drink them with dessert, as dessert, or just to sip and and relax, sweet wines are appropriate throughout the year.  In this column, I give you some considerations for sweet wines to top your evening or anytime you desire a delicious dessert wine).

My first choice is Port. Sweet and red! And this time of year I just can’t resist it. The only challenge is there are a variety of styles, so it can be difficult deciding which to buy. This Portuguese elixir is a different sort of sweet wine. High alcohol (fortified with brandy) and bursting with red and black fruit flavors, it is powerful, even in styles that fashion a sense of elegance. The richness, intensity and natural sweetness balanced with refreshing tannin and finished with an alcoholic kick always warm my soul.

To many, the intensity and power of Vintage Port make it the most prized but it also usually is the most expensive approaching and sometimes exceeding $100 per bottle. A more affordable place to start is with a Ruby Port, the youngest and most accessible style. It is blended from several different vintages and offers fresh, straightforward, grapey fruit that is ready to drink upon release. Graham’s “Six Grapes” Reserve ($24) is one of the classics with its deep black fruits and aromas of ripe plums and dark cherries.

Or take a step up for Graham’s Six Grapes “Special Old Vines Edition” ($42), a very special elaboration of the style produced to commemorate 100 years of the Six Grapes emblem. It is more expensive but it’s pure cherry and berry flavors are concentrated yet fresh with a luscious     texture and hints of chocolate.

Some Port aficionados consider Tawny Port – known less for power and concentration than for complexity, purity and finesse – to be the ultimate expression of Port. Tawny Ports also marry several vintages but spend extensive time in casks, for periods ranging from ten to forty years.

While 20, 30 and 40 Year Old Tawnies are ethereal taste experiences; they also can cost from $50 to more than $100. For the best introduction to the style, 10-Year-Old Tawnies are the most accessible and affordable choice. I’ve been enjoying the Graham’s 10 Year Old ($36), which presents dried fruit notes (cherry and orange) that are still pure and vibrant, balanced with almonds, brown spices, and a touch of caramel.

Although some experiment with Port during a meal, it is best enjoyed slightly chilled at the end of the meal, either with dessert, cheese, dark chocolate or as dessert itself.

For those of you who prefer the lighter touch, though still quite rich nature of a white dessert wine, I suggest an Austrian from Kracher Wienlaubenhof. In recent years, Austria has drawn a lot of attention for its challengingly named but fresh, spicy and weighty Grüner Veltliner. What many people may not realize is that, like Germany, Austria produces some amazing sweet wines.

They typically also are labeled according to the same ripeness and sweetness levels as are German wines. And Kracher is the most famous name in Austrian wine.  A family-owned winery now on its third generation, Kracher is especially renowned for its dessert wines. Here are three special ones from the top three tiers that actually are reasonably priced.

As you go up this list of wines, they get sweeter, deeper and richer, increasingly complex and concentrated, potentially even influenced by the presence of botrytis. Again, these are enjoyed best with dessert or on their own but they actually can work well with spicy foods.

• 2011 Auslese Cuvée ($23, 375ml) 60% chardonnay, 40% welschriesling (unrelated to
  ermany’s riesling). A late harvest selection with bright and crisp peach, honey and lemon.

• 2011 Beerenauslese Cuvée ($34, 375ml) 60% welschriesling, 40% chardonnay. From individually selected berries, this one switches the grape ratio with the result of stronger honey notes, spice, balancing acidity.

• NV Trockenbeerenauslese ($28, 187ml) 55% welschriesling, 40% chardonnay, 5% traminer. From grapes so super ripe they are basically raisins with just a few drops per berry. They produce a wine so rich and lush with apricot and cream it is best drunk alone and savored in small doses.

Again, these wines are enjoyed best with dessert or cheese or on their own but they actually can work well with spicy foods. Enjoy!

When it comes to wine, South America is on the move.

Argentina has made a big splash with Malbec; Chile has made a lesser but still significant impact with Carmenere; and now Uruguay is poised to impress with Tannat. Tannat? You ask. Isn’t that a resident of an apartment building?

Actually, it is a good but underappreciated red wine grape. Tannat is best known as the principal red grape of the Madiran region in southwest France near the Pyrénées. In Madiran, wines made with tannat (named for its high tannin content) tend toward a more rustic profile – robust, tough, dark, dense, and tannic – with flavors of raspberry and benefitting from several years of aging.

In researching this column, I was impressed to find Uruguay is the fourth-largest wine-producing country in South America, behind Chile, Argentina, and Brazil. It is located on the Atlantic coast between Brazil to the north and Argentina to the south. Although wine grapes have been grown there for over 250 years, commercial winemaking dates to the 1870s with the arrival of Spanish immigrants. Thus, the introduction of tannat is attributed to Basque immigrants, as the grape is believed to have originated in northern Spain. In addition to tannat, mostly French grapes like cabernet sauvignon, merlot, sauvignon blanc, and viognier are grown. Also gaining favor among the whites is the Spanish grape albariño.

In contrast to Argentina and Chile, most Uruguayan wine is consumed by the county’s 3.5 million residents. And something like 90 percent of the grapes for that wine is grown in vineyards in the south of the country not far from the capital Montevideo and along the coast in the Canelones, Montevideo, Colonia, Maldonado, Florida and San Jose departments. The most important viticultural region is Canelones, a short drive from Montevideo (which also makes it convenient for tourists) but notable wineries are springing up inland to the west and east along the coast, including Carmelo, near the border with Argentina, and outside the resort town of Punta del Este on the coast.

And the over 200 wineries are almost exclusively small, family-owned producers. I’m told that Uruguay’s total annual production of 10 million cases is less than that of a single large producer in Chile or Argentina.

Similar to what has happened with malbec in Argentina, Uruguayan wineries’ use of more modern techniques in the vineyard and the cellar work to soften tannat’s harsher tendencies. Also, Uruguay’s warmer conditions (moderated by its coastal, maritime climate) encourage a longer growing season enabling the grape to ripen more reliably. The result typically is still quite intense and concentrated but more stylish, fresh and vibrant and can be enjoyed immediately upon release. I think I also detected savory qualities and pleasant bitterness.

The six Tannats in this tasting are reviewed in alphabetical order. Prices are estimates.

2012 Artesana Tannat ($16). American-owned and founded in 2007 in the Las Brujas district of Canelones, Artesana’s wines are made by its two women winemakers from its sustainably farmed, estate grown grapes. With twelve months in French and American oak, this wine shows strong aromas and concentrated flavors of dark plum, with hints of toasty oak, dusty and meaty notes, and brusque tannins.

2012 Bodega Garzón “Vartietales” ($16). named after the nearby town of Garzon in the Maldonado department about eleven miles from the ocean and the resort of Punta del Este, Bodega Garzón is a dramatic project including nut and olive groves, along with numerous outdoor activities. They are building what the winery says will be the first LEED-certified winery outside of North America. The wine is earthy with dark plum, graphite and charred notes on the nose. It’s riper with powdery tannins and a refined palate.

2013 Gimenez Mendez Alta Reserva ($28). This 75-year-old family winery owns vineyards in four areas of Canelones. This one comes from Las Brujas and presents smoke, meat, spice and racy prune in the nose followed by ripe fruit and a chewy texture on the palate.

2013 “Pueblo del Sol” Reserva ($16). From Familia Deicas, in the Juanico district of the Canelones department, the winery was founded in 1830 has become a leader in the Uruguayan wine industry. This is a rather straightforward but pleasing mix of prune, raisin fruit with accents of meat and chalk. The palate is smooth and fresh.

2013 “Don Prospero” Tannat Malbec ($20). The 105-year-old Pizzorno Family Estate in Canelones produced this 50/50 estate bottled blend showing ripe dark fruits with smoke and herbs. It drinks lively and juicy.

2011 Reinaldo de Lucca Reserve ($24). Located in the El Colorado district of the Canelones department, this is a family whose heritage reaches to Piemonte in Italy. The 75-year-old De Lucca is distinguished by its emphasis on sustainable practices. This wine is quite ripe, sporting a roasted and earthy quality with bright cherry fruit and a firm structure.

Clearly, Uruguay is set to emerge as a world-class wine and food destination. Foreign investment is funding exciting new wine projects, and some wineries are hiring high-profile consultants, such as Paul Hobbs, who is working for Juanico, Michel Rolland (Narbona) and Alberto Antonini (Garzon).

The wines are improving, the coastline is inviting and I keep reading the grass-fed beef is unparalleled (of course, certain Colorado ranchers might have something to say about that!). And the nation is taking another lesson from Argentina and more proactively promoting its wines, especially through Wines of Uruguay (who supplied the wines for this tasting). So expect better availability soon.

And Uruguay is forward looking beyond wine. Last year, The Economist named Uruguay Country of the Year, partly for legalizing same-sex marriage and partly for becoming the first country to legalize the production and the sale of marijuana, saying that those actions have “increased the global sum of human happiness at no financial cost.”

With improving quality and increasing promotion, especially through Wines of Uruguay (who supplied the wines for this tasting), Uruguayan wine is set to emerge on the international stage. Check it out!

Photo Credit: Featured Image Photo Courtesy of Duckhorn Vineyards

Did you get a gift card to a local wine shop this holiday season? Wondering what to do with it? Thinking it’ll be a nice treat to pick up something really good to save for a special occasion? Red or white, look down this column for some surefire options. These are the best wines I tasted this year that I haven’t already reviewed. If you really want to splurge, you

Given its pedigree and popularity, many of you likely will be on the lookout for a top notch California Cabernet Sauvignon. The Napa Valley winery Chappellet Vineyard, which has been producing at a high level since 1967, has the pedigree to match the grape. Its estate vineyards on Pritchard Hill produce classic mountain grown fruit – low yields and concentration. The 2012 Donn Chappellet Signature ($52) is a perfect example: dense but pure dark berries and firm tannins but great balance with an elegance inviting early consumption the structure to reward a decade of patience.

What about you Merlot lovers (or really anybody who loves red wine)? If you want to experience the heights of what West Coast Merlot can achieve, your search should begin with Duckhorn Vineyards, considered California’s premier Merlot producer for most of the last 40 years. The 2011 Three Palms Vineyard ($95), from the iconic vineyard on the northeast side of the Napa Valley floor, is the latest of what has been Duckhorn’s flagship wine since 1978. It offers layers of luscious red currant and cherry fruit with hints of toasty herbs and mocha spice. Like previous vintages, it has begun life tight and tough but is more appealing young than usual. Still, it will develop additional character and complexity with 5-10+ years time.

If you are a fan of the classic Burgundian varieties – chardonnay and pinot noir – a great winery for a splurge is Patz & Hall. This 26-year-old winery is a specialize in making single-vineyard and appellation specific Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines from some of California’s best vineyards. The 2012 Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay ($58) comes from the Carneros region and one of the state’s most renowned vineyards. It deftly balances crisp, zesty acidity with richness and generous fruit. It is big and bold but also shows floral, spice and mineral notes. Exuberant orange and lemon meet buttery richness.

The 2012 Jenkins Ranch Pinot Noir ($60), from a prized Russian River Valley Vineyard, is packed with sweet black cherry and raspberry accented with earthy, spicy and floral notes. An appealing savory character and a lush texture are balanced with a focused mouthfeel and vibrant tannin.

Speaking of pinot noir, those of you also attracted to sparkling wine should look for the 2012 Sea Smoke “Sea Spray” Blanc De Noirs ($80). Within just fifteen years, estate grown wines from Sea Smoke’s hillside vineyard in the Santa Rita Hills at the western end of the Santa Ynez Valley has become some of the state’s most sought after Pinot Noir. And now this dramatic sparkling wine joins the portfolio. It is 100 percent pinot noir made in the Champagne Method. Very dry and crisp but a rich, a creamy mouthfeel wraps bright raspberry and pink grapefruit.

Moving on to another continent, Australia long has been recognized as producing the best syrah-based wines (here it’s called shiraz) next to France’s Rhone Valley. So, it shouldn’t be a surprise that Michel Chapoutier (whose family is one of the great Rhone producers) would partner with the wine importer Anthony Terlato to produce wine here. It also shouldn’t be a surprise that after just ten vintages Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier has emerged as a perennial winery to watch. Their 2011 “lieu dit Malakoff” Shiraz ($50) shows its mountain-grown origins in the Pyrenees of Central Victoria with solid structure and intensity but also lively acidity. This Malakoff vineyard is sleek with fine tannins delivering juicy black fruits and savory, earthy, meaty notes with touches of chocolate and black pepper

The 2009 L-Block Shiraz ($60) is a special selection from a L-shaped parcel of Lieu Dit Malakoff. It is distinguished by dramatic aromas and flavors of wild berry, stone, white pepper and anise. Particularly full bodied and layered, its silky texture is just right for the succulent fruit.

Finally, if you really want to splurge, here’s the most expensive and arguably the best wine of this esteemed list. And don’t be surprised that it comes from Chile. Also, don’t be surprised it comes from Concha y Toro, Chile’s largest wine company. It’s the 2010 Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon “Puente Alto Vineyard” ($125). This high-end label honors Don Melchor who created Concha y Toro in 1883. The vineyard is located in the Alto Maipo at the foot of the Andes Mountains, considered the best terroir for Cabernet Sauvignon in Chile. With 3% cabernet franc, it is balanced and fresh, mouth filling and sophisticated. Complexity is the key word for its aromas and flavors – black and red fruits, meat, herbs, baking spices, cocoa, oak and graphite. Fine tannins give it a lively lush texture but a firm finish. Eminently enjoyable now, it will age well for at least ten years. No wonder it was ranked #9 in The Wine Spectator’s Top 100. And with over 10,000 cases made, it should be the easiest of the wines in this column to find.

Photo Credit: Wikipedia

America is a nation of immigrants. Not surprisingly, we have a long history of enjoying wines imported from other countries, especially Europe. For instance, some of us remember Thomas Jefferson as much for his love of French wine as for his founding father role. Of course, America’s best wines are made from vines that “immigrated” from other places, again primarily Europe.

So, this Thanksgiving I plan to share with my family several wines imported from European countries well known for their great wines.

From my own country of origin – Italy – I am looking forward to four Tuscan wines. From Castello di Nipozzano, a property that dates to the 11^th century and now is owned by Frescobaldi, one of the great families of Italian wine, the 2010 Riserva Chianti Rufina ($25) is a really good value. With its pure black fruit and herbal spice notes, it is full yet balanced enough to be easy drinking as it finishes with a refreshing palate.

The 2011 “Vecchie Viti” Chianti Rufina ($30) is another excellent value. Made with grapes from old vines, it ironically is a tradition in the Frescobaldi family to dedicate the wine to new borns in the family. It is aromatic and drinks with elegance offering bright red fruits, licorice and spice.

The other two wines I’m interested in give a nod to Italy’s neighbor France by blending the native sangiovese with small amounts of French varieties. The 2011 Brancaia Tre Rosso ($23) (as its name indicates) melds three grape varieties – sangiovese, merlot and cabernet sauvignon – from Brancaia’s three Tuscan estates into a sleek whole with cherry fruit and touches of spice and chocolate with roasted notes.

From Castello Banfi’s estate vineyards in the southern hills of Montalcino, comes another modernistic assemblage – its name means “dark beauty” signifying a cuvee of red grape varieties primarily sangiovese with small amounts of French varieties. The 2011 “BelnerO” ($29) delivers tasty black cherry and plum accented with vanilla, coffee and light mineral notes, reflecting the area’s stony, calcareous terroir.

Bordeaux in France is one of the most celebrated wine regions in the world. Beyond the expensive wines of the famous chateau, though, is a lot of sound, affordable wine. I’m especially intrigued with the 2012 Les Hauts de Lagarde ($13), which is made from organically grown grapes and is non-GMO verified by the Non-GMO Project. Its 65% merlot, 25% cabernet sauvignon, and 10% cabernet franc yield a soft drink with a touch of oak, a smoky, earth character and pretty plum and cherry fruit.

On to Spain and the value theme of this column continues. The 2010 Bodegas Iranzo “Vertus” ($12) is another wine made from organically grown grapes and verified non-GMO. Iranzo, with vineyards in the hills just west of the Mediterranean coast near Valencia, claims to be Spain’s oldest estate bottled winery dating back to 1335. The wine is 100% tempranillo and a Crianza (meaning aged six months). The result is fresh red berries, raisin and savory notes with a soft but tight texture.

Although the 2009 CUNE Rioja Reserva ($28) is twice the price of the Vertus, it is well worth the extra investment. It comes from a winery founded in 1879 and still family-owned and -operated. It is 85% tempranillo (with the rest equal parts mazuelo, graciano and garnacha) and the extra time in barrel and bottle (minimum total of three years for Reserva) produces a nicely balanced wine. While it still exhibits fresh, bright black and red berries, it is offset with a touch of earth and drinks elegant, yet lively.

Finally, I really like these outstanding “einwanderers” from Germany. For my money, German Riesling is the ideal white wine for Thanksgiving (or anytime of year!). As luscious and delicious as are the riper and sweeter Spätlese and Auslese, it is the off-dry Kabinett that is most suited to drinking with the widest variety of foods.

Making wine in the Mosel Valley since 1561, the wines of Friedrich-Wilhelm-Gymnasium have been a favorite choice of mine for many years. The 2012 Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett ($22) is delightful with its crisp lemon, peach, apricot, green apple and pear; and I even think I can taste the blue slate minerality that is the hallmark of this vineyard.

From the Mittelrhein, an area sandwiched between the more famous Mosel and Rheingau, the Weingart estate has produced a 2012 Bopparder Hamm Engelstein Kabinett that is a particular treat. With the exceedingly steep slopes of the area, it is not surprising relatively few attempt viticulture here. But I’m sure glad Florian Weingart has accepted the challenge. This wine, marked “feinherb +” to indicate it is a little sweet, is quite racy with juicy pear, apple, and lemon, followed by intriguing spiciness.

The 2011 Von Winning Riesling “in Deidesheim” ($20) comes from a winery founded in 1849 in the Pfalz region (stretching south of the Rheingau). This one is bracing with citrus, green apple and pear and an underlying hint of minerality.

Happy Thanksgiving to all, whatever you are drinking!

Beginning in the early 1990’s, the popularity of Merlot wines from California grew almost exponentially among American consumers. According to The Wine Institute, just over 15,000 tons were crushed in 1990 and over 292,000 tons were crushed in 2004! American consumers were drawn to the wine’s easy drinking, approachable profile.

But then Sideways (the movie) happened. With this Pinot Noir-centric movie’s disparaging of Merlot, suddenly the associated wines became suspect, even though some of the great wines of the world are made of predominately of merlot. But reports of Merlot’s death were exaggerated. While production has fluctuated over the ensuing decade, Merlot remains the second most popular California red wine.

Much of that is soft, admittedly bland swill. But here I’m concerned with introducing discerning consumers to quality choices. At an everyday price, the 2012 William Hill Central Coast ($17) is a solid value, with tasty bright red berry fruit, an earthy note and satiny texture.

Interestingly, my recent tastings did not include any wines in the $20-$30 range. But I did find two just over $30 a bottle that should entice you. The 2010 Clos du Val Napa Valley ($35) is balanced and elegant, focused on cherry fruit. It is buttressed with a significant amount of cabernet sauvignon and dollops of petite verdot and cabernet franc. If you prefer super ripeness, you’ll think this lean and shy. I appreciate its firmness and freshness.

In contrast, the 2011 Freemark Abbey Napa Valley ($34) is more luscious and supple. It is blended with small amounts of cabernet sauvignon, petite verdot and cabernet franc, making it rich in dark cherries and brown spices.

For a few dollars more, the 2009 Grgich Hills Napa Valley ($42) is attractive for its complex mix of sweet red and black fruit, with coffee, herbal and cedar notes. It’s quite tasty and rich, though somewhat lean in style, with a touch of heat in the finish.

But I was really impressed with these excellent wines from the fifteen-year-old Buty winery in Washington State. The 2010 “Merlot-Cabernet Franc” ($40), using fruit from the Conner Lee Vineyard and Champoux Vineyard and blended with 42% cabernet franc, offers a mix of well focused dark berry fruit accented with herbs, brown spices and bittersweet chocolate delivered in a silky, elegant frame.

The 2011 “Merlot Cabernet-Franc” Conner Lee Vineyard ($45), blended with 33% cabernet franc, shows nice balance of red and black fruits steadied with crisp but lush acidity and accented with earthy, savory and spice notes. Both beckon you to drink them now but will develop for the next five to ten years.

These are all very good wines. Still, if you want to experience the heights of what West Coast Merlot can achieve, your journey should begin with Duckhorn Vineyards. Duckhorn produced its first wines in 1978 and quickly established a reputation as one of California’s best Merlot producers. Over the years, they have developed a style both for their Cabernets and Merlots that generally has been described as hard or tough when young, certainly rich and full-bodied, with generous fruit and ample tannins calling for aging 5-10+ years. Doesn’t sound like the stereotype of the soft, quaffable Merlot, does it? The only downside is this level of quality comes at a price. Duckhorn wines occupy the upper stratosphere of wine pricing. But the following new releases will reward the investment.

• 2010 Napa Valley ($54) represents the craft of blending – in this case several prized vineyards to express the essence of Napa Valley – yielding a structured wine with powerful black fruits, prominent oak and strong tannins.

• 2010 Carneros ($70) from vineyards in the southern end of the valley that benefit from the cooling influence of the San Pablo Bay, is tighter and more tannic, a bit earthy, but with sweeter, brighter cherry and plum.

• 2010 Atlas Peak ($70) shows the elements of mountain grown fruit – wild berry, currant and cola, firm tannins yet velvety palate, substantial weight and rich finish.

• 2010 Three Palms Vineyard ($90) on the northeast side of the valley floor, is Duckhorn’s flagship wine made since 1978. Its signature is to begin life hard, tight and tough, gradually yielding succulent currant and cherry fruit and developing herb and mocha notes rewarding patience with richness and complexity.

• 2010 Rector Creek Vineyard ($90), located near Yountville, was the most immediately satisfying for its more approachable tannins, softer texture, luscious berry and cherry fruit, and creamy oak.

• 2009 Stout Vineyard ($85), from a vineyard on Howell Mountain, is another one with hard tannins and a tough facade. Yet, it is really rich in black and red fruits, toasty oak and a polished palate.

NOTE: Featured Image photo courtesy of Close du Val Winery

As my favorite wine, I naturally drink a lot of Zinfandel. One reason is it’s quite versatile with food. It is great with spicy foods like Italian and Indian. But it really shines with the barbecue and grilled foods especially enjoyable this time of year.

I mostly love Zinfandel because it captures the essence of exuberance and zest in a glass. Although it can be made in different styles, it typically is big and bold, with a brash texture and lively raspberry, cherry and blackberry fruit accented with spice (black pepper, sage) and a brash, even a little wild character often described as briar or bramble. It also represents great value, as most of even the best wines are under $50.

Some things to keep in mind, though: Zinfandel tends toward high alcohol. The wines in my tastings ranged from 14% to 15.5%. Interestingly, nearly every wine contained some amount of petite sirah, usually to add backbone. Most will drink well for up to five years. Finally, I enjoyed the wines more when they were slightly chilled to 55 or 60 degrees. Here are my recommendations listed roughly in order of preference:

OUTSTANDING

2010 Bella “Rocky Ridge Vineyard” Rockpile ($45) – From one of the best Zinfandel producers, this high elevation (1300 feet) vineyard has produced a fine Zin that also will age well. It is dramatic and intense with brambly raspberry, cherry and blackberry, also spice and anise; it manages to be full-bodied yet elegant.

EXCELLENT

2012 Dry Creek Vineyard “Old Vine” Dry Creek Valley ($30) – The average 90+ year-old vines yield a firm but luscious wine of concentrated, briary black cherry and blackberry fruit, with suggestions of sweetness and spice.

2010 Bella “Lily Hill Estate” Dry Creek Valley ($40) – This vineyard, originally planted in 1915, has produced a big, juicy wine of concentrated wild berries and spicy herbs, with woodsy notes and a lush but firm texture that suggests improvement over time.

2011 Amapola Creek “Monte Rosso Vineyard” Sonoma Valley “Vinas Antiguas” ($42) –This unfiltered and unfined wine shows the pedigree of its mountain source and 118-year-old dry farmed vines. It is dense, with cherry and blueberry fruit, licorice, pepper and spice notes, sleek texture, and noticeable but soft tannins.

2012 Dry Creek Vineyard “Heritage Vines” Dry Creek Valley ($19) –This is rustic, though easy going, expressive with wild berry, pepper, chocolate and spice, all buttressed with bright acidity and fresh tannins.

VERY GOOD

2012 Artezin Mendocino ($17) – Also rustic, this delights with lively raspberry and boysenberry, spicy herb, a soft mouthfeel but solid tannic structure.

2011 Frank Family Napa Valley ($37) – As with most Napa wineries, Frank Family is best known for Cabernet but I’ve always enjoyed the Zin and this is another winner. Its ripe cherry and raspberry fruit compliment anise, spicy herb, sweet oak and a suggestion of minerality.

2012 Rancho Zabaco “Sonoma Heritage Vines” Sonoma County ($15) – Over half of the grapes for this Zinfandel specialist’s wine come from the Dry Creek Valley. It is plump, with juicy black and red fruits, brown spices, firm and spicy in the finish. Excellent value.

2010 Grgich Hills “Estate Grown” Napa Valley ($35) – From the winery’s organic and biodynamic Miljenko’s Vineyard, this is ripe and juicy as cherry and raspberry join chocolate, licorice and spicy herb in a dense wine finishing with firm tannins and some heat.

2011 The Federalist Dry Creek Valley ($29) – Honoring our founding fathers and zinfandel’s distinctly American character, this one offers tart cherry and spicy herb, balanced with brambly raspberry and blackberry and an intriguing char note.

2011 Artezin Dry Creek Valley ($25) – A solid Zin of juicy, ripe blackberries accented with earth and chocolate, weighty but balanced.

2010 Renwood “Premier Old Vine” Amador County ($20) –This one is loaded with jammy raspberry followed by spicy notes. Ample fruit nicely balances its firm structure.

2011 Four Vines ”Biker” Paso Robles ($18) – Another Zin specialist, zesty red fruits, spice and toasted herb flavors are its inviting calling cards.

2012 Pedroncelli “Mother Clone” Dry Creek Valley ($16) – After four generations in Sonoma, the Pedroncelli family still produces trustworthy Zins. This one’s peppery with black and tart red fruits, creamy and spicy notes, fresh acids and smooth tannins.

2011 Coup de Grâce Red Wine Lodi ($28) – intense old-vine character with spicy black and red berry fruit, licorice, earth, and full-bodied texture; not for the faint-hearted

OTHER GOOD ZINS WORTH YOUR ATTENTION

 
2012 Edmeades Mendocino ($20) – fermented with native yeast, briary red and black berries, hints of creamy oak, earth, and tobacco, lively acidity and ample tannins

2012 Zin-phomaniac Old Vines Lodi ($17) – The racy label beckons you but the wine delivers. Sourced from vineyards ranging from 20 to 75 years old, it’s very full-bodied, suggesting sweetness, with dark cherry, caramel and spice.

2012 Murphy-Goode Liar’s Dice Sonoma County ($21) – a welcoming blend of Dry Creek and Alexander Valley fruit offering jammy raspberry and black cherry with just a touch of spice

2012 Decoy Sonoma County ($25) – part of the Duckhorn portfolio, quite aromatic bright red berry tones, exuberant acidity finishing with a chalky note

2012 Rodney Strong Knotty Vines Sonoma County ($25) – a fine blend of old vine Russian River and Alexander Valley fruit, bright red cherry and cranberry with smoky and spicy notes, fairly tannic

2012 Caricature Old Vine Lodi ($17) – from the LangeTwins fifth generation Lodi farm, including some 100-year-old vines, spicy blackberry and boysenberry, with creamy, smoky notes

2011 Renwood Fiddletown Amador County ($25) – a rustic style, woodsy notes but quite ripe and peppery with a hint of anise, finishes tannic

2012 Kendall-Jackson “Vintner’s Reserve” Mendocino ($17) – brambly raspberry, plump and juicy blueberry, finishing with some grip

2012 Four Vines “Truant” California ($12) – juicy blue fruits, plump, easy drinking with good depth

(Featured image courtesy of Sequoia Grove Vineyard.)

Chardonnay has something like a 30 year record as America’s favorite white wine. Its deserved reputation for greatness undoubtedly is at least partly responsible for that popularity. Another likely reason consumers have been so drawn to the wine is it can be made in different styles to appeal to different tastes and occasions.

Many wineries attempt to emulate the richness and depth of Burgundy, the benchmark for the grape. Thankfully, at least as many produce lighter, fresher, fruitier versions that can easily keep fans drinking their favorite wine throughout the heat of the summer.

These Chardonnays typically offer the grape’s ripe fruit flavors – usually citrus, apple, pear, or tropical, and sometimes melon or fig – but in a more easy drinking style and less of the spicy or toasty oak, honey, butter, cream, vanilla, butterscotch or hazelnut.

The key to the most successful examples is balancing use of oak barrels and secondary malolactic fermentation to compliment ripe fruit with good acidity. Judicious use of oak means less oak period but also less new oakand less time in barrel. Most are whole cluster pressed to preserve the freshness of the juice. Many only partially undergo the malolactic that softens and rounds out the juice.

I have tasted over three dozen Chardonnays in the last few months and have selected the following seventeen worth your attention.

Some, like the 2012 Four Vines “Naked” ($12), actually eschew oak altogether fermenting the juice in stainless steel tanks and aging the wine in bottle. Its bright, a bit sweet citrusy Santa Barbara County fruit shines through without inhibition. Only ten percent of the Sonoma County fruit that comprises the 2012 Decoy ($20) spent time in barrel, complimenting its slightly sweet citrus, pear and spice notes. The just fifteen percent of barrel time seen by the 2012 Pedroncelli “Signature Collection” ($14) disappears behind its lively lemon/lime and tropical Dry Creek Valley fruit.

The following wines successfully use just slightly more barrel treatment. The 2013 CrossBarn (by Paul Hobbs) Sonoma Coast ($25) – with its hazelnut and butter notes, racy citrus, apple and pineapple – is a real treat. At everyday prices, the 2011 Souverain North Coast ($13) – with just enough oak to balance the sweet fruit cocktail flavors –delivers refreshing drinking. The 2012 Murphy Goode California ($14) is juicy, viscous and like tasting lemon cream pie. The 2012 Rodney Strong Sonoma County ($17) quite aromatic, with fresh citrus orange, a juicy crisp finish, and an intriguing touch of licorice.

The 2012 Sequoia Grove Napa Valley ($28) takes a different approach. While the wine is barrel aged and fermented, more than two-thirds of those barrels are neutral oak. And significantly, the wine did not go through the secondary malolactic fermentation that would have softened its crisp citrus, apple and pear flavors.

And the 2012 Artesa Carneros ($20) strikes a middle ground with half stainless steel, half oak and half malolactic yielding a fresh and juicy wine, featuring lively tropical and orange fruits broadened by lightly creamy notes. With a similar approach, the 2012 Wente “Morning Fog” Livermore Valley ($15) achieves a pleasantly fruit forward style.

As much as I came to prefer the lighter touch in my tastings, I also found several wines that underwent full malolactic fermentation and were treated with significant oak during both fermentation and aging (though spare on the new oak) but deftly walk the line between richness and freshness, making them fine choices for current drinking. Despite the abbreviated notes, they all are very good wines.

• 2011 Matanzas Creek Sonoma County ($26) succulent
• 2012 Kendall-Jackson “Grand Reserve”($22) dramatic fruit impact
• 2011 J. Lohr “Highlands Bench” Santa Lucia Highlands ($25) focused, deep fruit
• 2012 Byron Santa Barbara County ($17) spicy lemon cream
• 2012 La Crema Sonoma Coast ($23) ripe white peach
• 2012 Alta Maria Santa Maria Valley ($28) brisk but full fruited
• 2012 Wente “Riva Ranch” Arroya Seco ($22) mixed citrus/tropical fruits