Category: Recommendations

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A CORNUCOPIA OF INTERNATIONAL WINES FOR YOUR HOLIDAY GATHERINGS, PART 4

Red Wines

 

In keeping with my usual imperative to broaden my wine horizons and to look for interesting wines from all over the world, especially during the holidays, I present a wide variety of red wine selections for this fourth and final installment of my special holiday recommendations series. By the way, if you are interested in Pinot Noir or Zinfandel, I recently reviewed several samples of these wines here and here.

 

Australia Rhone-style. I recently came across these four excellent Aussies and even though I plan a comprehensive review of Australian wines in the coming months, I decided I couldn’t wait to turn you to them.

 

2011 Yangarra Grenache McLaren Vale Old Vine ($32). Grenache is the main grape in Chateauneuf-du-Pape and even though the terroir is different, the varietal red cherry and raspberry fruit laden with black pepper spice comes through nicely, as does intriguing earthy notes delivered with a lush texture.

 

2010 Yangarra Shiraz McLaren Vale ($25). Known as Syrah most everywhere else, Australian Shiraz has made a big splash in international markets over the last couple decades; so much so that too much average stuff has flooded stores. Thankfully there still are ample supplies of the greatness this grape can achieve in Australia – like this one. It is quite aromatic with dark berry fruit seasoned with meaty and cocoa accents. In the mouth it is flavorful, rich and lively, with a balance of tannin and fruit to age gracefully.

 

 

2010 Two Hands “Gnarly Dudes” Shiraz Barossa Valley ($35). This is nearly as good as the Yangarra, with floral aromas, dark berries and sort of a smoky note. It is another big, rich wine but with sleek tannins and a fresh finish. Earthy spicy notes provide additional interest throughout.

 

2009 Torbreck “The Steading” Barossa Valley ($38). A classic “GSM” – grenache syrah and mourvedre (also sometimes, as in this case, called mataro) – this one is heavy on the grenache to great effect. Lots of red fruits and brown spices excite the opening then join with a rich, flavorful and firm palate that finishes with plenty of friendly tannins.

 

Blends. A winery’s multi-varietal red blend can be a fun alternative for any occasion. Instead of just the character of one variety, these give you a chance to experience the how different aromas and flavors can come together to make a whole that is better than the sum of its parts.

 

2010 Craggy Range “Te Kahu” Gimblett Gravels Vineyard ($22). This merlot dominated Bordeaux-style blend from the Hawkes Bay region of New Zealand just blew me away, especially at the price and given its origins. Deeply fruited with all sorts of plum, cherry and berry aromas and flavors, merged with mineral and spice qualities. Solid structure and medium body, while smooth tannins liven the engaging finish.

 

 

Troublemaker Blend 7 ($20). This is a fun, big fruited blend of syrah, grenache, mourvedre, zinfandel, and petite sirah from Austin Hope, one of the leading producers in Paso Robles. Notes of tobacco, vanilla and meat add further interest to this versatile wine, good for quaffing and comfortable at the table.

 

I also came across a few really friendly priced blends you will find ideal for cocktail parties, as well as large dinners, or even everyday sipping. I’m not talking huge complexity here, or even huge wines for that matter, just tasty, easy drinking enjoyment.

 

  • 2012 HandCraft “Inspiration Red” California ($13) – an eclectic, fruit forward blend of syrah, zinfandel, merlot, malbec & sangiovese

 

  • 2012 Smoking Loon “Red Loonatic” ($8) – syrah, alicante bouschet, petite sirah, zinfandel, tannat, sangiovese, touriga nacional, tempranillo, pinot noir…wow!

 

  • Spin the Bottle Red Wine ($11) – cabernet sauvignon, syrah and merlot make good companions

 

Miscellaneous Reds

 

2011 Ventisquero “Grey” Carmenere Single Block ($24). Ventisquero’s “Grey” line features all individual blocks from specific vineyards. This Carmenere hails from Block 5 of the Trinidad Vineyard in the Maipo Valley. Loads of black fruits, an earthy note and a touch of creamy oak flow through its aromas and flavors.

 

2009 Pertinace Nebbiolo ($18). It’s been fashionable for years now among wine critics to treat wine coops with disrespect. The conceit is usually that a collective of growers inevitably succumbs to the lowest common denominator, while individual producers are the only ones truly dedicated to excellence. Well, Cantina Pertinace, a cooperative of of twelve winegrowers in the region of Barbaresco, clearly proves this wrong. They produce an enviable line of Barolo, Barbaresco, Babera, Arneis and this enjoyable Nebiolo. Try this taste of the region for less than half the cost of Barolo.

 

2011 Alamos Malbec ($13). Alamos is the result of a collaboration between the great Catena family of Argentina and the great Gallo family of California. Dabs of syrah and bonarda enliven the malbec grown in the higher elevations of Mendoza. The result is

soft and fruity, easy drinking and a great value.

 

2010 Matchbook Tempranillo Dunnigan Hills ($15). Tempranillo, the grape responsible for most of Spain’s finest wines, has always been a challenge to grow successfully in California. But Matchbook seems to have figured out how to make an enjoyable, affordable wine out of it, with touches of tannat and graciano. Aged almost in a combination of American, French and Hungarian oak, this wine exhibits brown spice and cedar to compliment black and red fruits.

 

2011 Stickybeak Toscano IGT ($20). A surprising new collaboration between Australian wine importer Old Bridge Cellars and Italian vintner Alberto Antonini, this wine is a flavorful Sangiovese (with a touch of merlot and, from nearby Maremma, a bit of syrah) from the Tuscan commune of Cerreto Guidi.

 

2011 J. Lohr Estates Valdiguié Monterey ($10). This is a fun wine from a grape primarily grown in the Languedoc-Roussillon. It’s cultivated sparsely in California but J. Lohr has fashioned a grapey, interesting wine using partial carbonic maceration that simulates the drinking experience of a Beaujolais or maybe a light Pinot Noir.

 

2012 Monte Velho Red ($10). This time of year, I’m especially fond of Portuguese table wine. While Portugal is most famous for its great sweet Porto, table wine from the country has become a go-to choice for good values with authentic character.

Portuguese producer Heredade do Esporao has fashioned this excellent value from equal amounts of the indigenous grapes trincadeira, aragonez and castelao.  It’s pretty straightforward but is solid and firm, with tasty fruit.

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A CORNUCOPIA OF INTERNATIONAL WINES FOR YOUR HOLIDAY GATHERINGS, PART 3

White Wines

 

This time of year – truthfully all year long – I like to try a wide variety of wines. Certainly Chardonnay remains the most popular wine among consumers. And if you are looking for ideas for the holidays, I previously reviewed a large number of Chardonnays here.

For our purposes in this column, the focus is mostly on the so-called “aromatic whites” – Riesling, Pinot Grigio, and Sauvignon Blanc – along with a mélange of international varieties. Most of the delightful wines in this column are crisp, fruity, and fragrant. For generally reasonable prices, these wines also provide a refreshing combination of acidity and in many cases moderate alcohol – perfect for parties and the variety of foods available during the holidays.

 

Riesling. My favorite white wine, a good Riesling is enticingly aromatic with bracing acidity and typically green apple, citrus and stone fruit flavors. Most intriguing, there often is a distinctive mineral component. The wines below provide at least some sweetness, unless otherwise indicated.

 

2012 Thomas Schmitt Private Collection Spatlese ($16). Nice green apple with hints of steel and stone. Light and soft and pretty with a good balance of sweetness and acidity.

 

2012 Thomas Schmitt Private Collection Kabinet ($14). Similar to the Spatlese but lighter and less sweet; nice sipper and versatile.

 

2012 Beast “Sphinx” Wallula Vineyard Columbia Valley ($25). From the U.S., I especially enjoy Washington State Riesling these days. This one, made with grapes from a biodynamically farmed vineyard, is aromatic, flavorful and dry – and excellent.

 

2010 Brooks “Ara” Willamette Valley ($25). Another very dry wine, the Ara is nicely citrusy and sports bracing acidity.

 

Other good options:

 

  • 2012 J.Lohr Estates Bay Mist White Riesling ($10)
  • 2012 Martin & Weyrich “Allegro” Riesling ($12)
  • 2012 Fess Parker Riesling Santa Barbara County ($14)
  • 2012 Kendall-Jackson “Vintner’s Reserve” Riesling Monterey County ($13)
  • 2011 Woodbridge (by Robert Mondavi) Riesling ($8)

 

Pinot Gris/Grigio. Pinot Gris, the so-called “grey pinot,” reaches its epitome in Alsace and can be quite fine in Oregon but I found the 2011 La Crema Pinot Gris Monterey County ($20) to be impressive in its own right. Citrus, lime and honeydew present with a body of some weight and richness of texture.

 

Pinot Grigio, usually indicating the lighter Italian style, is best known among Americans. Typically, it tends to fresh citrus and melon carried in a brisk, yet easygoing frame. The following wines, listed in order of preference, all are worth trying:

 

  • 2012 Franz Keller Schwarzer Adler ($25)
  • 2011 Francis Coppola “Diamond Collection” ($16)
  • 2012 Oak Grove California ($8)
  • 2012 Pepi California ($10)
  • 2012 McManis California ($10)
  • 2011 Murphy-Goode California ($13)
  • NV Camelot California ($7)

 

Sauvignon Blanc. The brisk acidity, zesty white and green fruits (often grapefruit or gooseberry) and distinctive herbaceousness of Sauvignon Blanc enable this wine to pair with multiple foods. The 2012 Matua Valley Estate Series Paretai Marlborough ($17) was my favorite of this group for its green apple, grapefruit, citrus, and strong green herb notes. It is fairly full and nicely concentrated, yet balanced. The following also are enjoyable:

 

  • 2013 Matua Valley Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough ($12)
  • 2012 Pepi California ($10)
  • 2012 Tin Roof California ($10)
  • 2012 Oak Grove California ($8)

 

Pinot Blanc. A wine that often is mistaken for Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc shows its own charms, as with these two. The 2012 Franz Keller Schwarzer Adler ($25) reveals nice stone fruits and intriguing “wet rocks” minerality. The 2010 Brooks “Runaway White” ($15), a blend of two Oregon vineyards, has nice apple and citrus in a juicy and lively frame.

 

Blends. A winery’s multi-varietal blend also can be a fun alternative. Instead of just the character of one variety, these give you a chance to experience the how different aromas and flavors can come together to make a whole that is better than the sum of its parts. Two eminently affordable examples of this include the 2012 HandCraft “Inspiration White” ($13). This is a vibrant, aromatic blend of riesling, sauvignon blanc, viognier, moscato and pinot grigio. Even more affordable is the 2012 Smoking Loon “White Loonatic” ($8), a fruit-forward, approachable blend of viognier, chardonnay, muscat, and symphony.

 

Spain. The Rueda region in north central Spain not far from the great Ribera del Duero region has long been considered the source of Spain’s favorite white wines. Verdejo, the indigenous varietal of the region, produces wines with a nice balance of minerality and acidity. The crisp Verdejo wines of Rueda carry a hint of herbs with notes tropical and stone fruit. The 2012 Oro de Castilla Verdejo ($12) emphasizes tight citrus, lime and steely notes, while the 2012 12 Linajes Verdejo ($12) shows similar citrus but also apple, fennel and savory notes.

 

Viognier. One of three esteemed white Rhone varietals – along with Roussanne and Marsanne – Viognier can offer the richness of Chardonnay with exotic, tropical fruits. This is typically a pretty expensive wine but the 2012 McManis ($11) and 2012 Oak Grove ($8) both offer a sense of that experience for very affordable prices.

 

Other Whites. I don’t want to close without turning you on to a few fine southern European whites to add some variety to your holiday palates.

 

  • 2012 Rocca Sveva Soave Classico ($17), citrus – oranges and lemons – and stone fruit in a light but pleasing sweet/tart drink
  • 2012 Monte Velho White Alentejano ($10), this light blend of native roupeiro, antao vaz, and perrum varieties reminds me of fruit salad with touches of caramel and butterscotch
  • NV Memoro Vino Bianco D’italia ($10), intriguing blend of French and Italian grapes  – viognier, chardonnay, vermentino, and pecorino – fun for sipping
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A CORNUCOPIA OF INTERNATIONAL WINES FOR YOUR HOLIDAY GATHERINGS, PART 2

Sweet Wines

 

I love Porto, period. Yes, it’s sweet, often very sweet. And it’s red! And this time of year I just can’t resist it. There are a variety of styles, so it can be confusing trying to decide which to buy. A good place to start is with a Ruby Port, the youngest and most accessible Port. Aged three years in large vats to retain freshness, expect straightforward, grapey fruit. Fonseca Bin No. 27 ($21) – quite intense with lively red fruits and good structure – is a fine representative of the type.


Late Bottled Vintage Port is made from good wines of a single year that didn’t quite make the cut for Vintage Port. But, after aging four to six years, it is ready to drink upon release and offers a sense of why Vintage Porto is so prized by connoisseurs. The 2007 Taylor Fladgate Late Bottled Vintage Porto ($22) is notable for its full body and blackberry fruit balanced with good acidity and soft tannins.


Tawny Port is known less for power and concentration than for complexity, purity of fruit and finesse. Tawnies are blended wines and the best indicate an average age. Expect admirable balance, elegance and complexity. The Taylor Fladgate 10 Year Old Tawny Porto ($35) presents pure vibrant fruit, hints of almonds, and fine balance.

 

There also are some interesting Port-style wines being produced in California. One I enjoyed recently is the 2008 Pedroncelli Four Grapes Port ($20). While many California producers make their Port-style wine using zinfandel, this wine uses the traditional Portuguese grapes Tinta Madera, Tinta Cao, Souzao, and Touriga Nacional. A little on the rustic side, it nicely conjures the character of a Ruby Port.

 

I also am aware many people this time of year host large holiday parties and, in an effort to offer a variety of wine drinking options to appeal to all their guests, look for sweet accessible wines for uncritical drinking. Here’s where wines like those from Sequin ($12) come in handy. Sweet and “delicately bubbled,” these wines can be sipped on their own or serve as a base for wine cocktails. There is a Rose, Pinot Grigio and Moscato.

 

Speaking of Moscato, if you like the sweet but not the bubbles, Smoking Loon’s 2012 “Blue Loon” Moscato ($8) might be right for you. It’s soft, fruity but not cloying with nice aromas and flavors reminiscent of fruit salad.

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NEW BREWS FOR THE HOLIDAY SEASON

Three breweries. Ten beers. Tons of fla,vor. Breweries everywhere are coming out with their seasonal and holiday brews to warm your cockles (look it up). Below is just a fraction of what’s available but each is guaranteed to please. Happy holidays!

 

Samuel Adams

 

 

Ruby Mild. The company says this limited release is inspired by the English mild ales popular in the 1800s. Its ruby color and prominent malty aroma comes from seven malts, including traditional English malts like Marris Otter and its light citrusy notes are attributable to East Kent Golding hops. There also are intriguing clove and brown butter elements in the nose. This pleasant easy drinking brew (5.6 ABV, 20 IBU) sports a light sour cherry flavor, with malty and chalky notes, finishing with a nice hoppy lift. An ideal accompaniment to holiday meals.

 

 

 

Fat Jack Double Pumpkin Ale. With more than 28 pounds of pumpkin per barrel, accented with more of those East Kent Golding hops and malts including rye Special B and smoked malt, this selection from the Small Batch catalogue actually does show classic pumpkin pie spices like cinnamon, nutmeg and allspice. In the mouth, roasted and smoked malts deliver hints of molasses and caramel and pretty high alcohol (8.5 ABV 25 IBU) but still with a smooth mouth feel. Obviously perfect for Thanksgiving.

 

 

Tetravis. A new addition to the Barrel Room Collection, Tetravis is modeled after a Belgian-style Quadrupel – blended, aged, and cask conditioned. While brewed with low bitterness Hallertau Mittelfrueh noble hops and Special B, Carafa 1, and Munich malts, it gets its unique character from blending in a special Belgian-style sour ale they call “Kosmic Mother Funk” that is a blend of Brettanomyces yeast and bacteria aged in Hungarian barrels for a year (and is blended into each Barrel Room Collection beer in varying levels). This one also is bottle conditioned with Champagne yeast. All this results in a heady brew that variously exhibits fruitcake, plum, currant, caramel, sour cherry, earth, molasses, raisin, fig, clove, and spice! With all this complexity and high alcohol (10.2 ABV, 18 IBU), this one is best with dessert or by itself after dinner.

 

Deschutes


Hop Trip Fresh Hop Pale Ale. “Fresh hop” means the Deschutes team brings just harvested hops from the fields of nearby Salem to the brewery in Bend within four hours of picking. Those include Salmon Safe Nugget, Centennial, and Fresh Crystal hops that are balanced with NW Pale, Extra Special, Cara-Munich, and Carapils malts. Refreshing citrus, pine and resin notes meld with grapefruit, spice, caramel, and tropical notes. Even at a friendly 5.3 ABV and 38 IBU, it delivers solid, mouthfilling, citrusy and spicy flavors nicely balanced with malty character.

 

 

Jubelale. A festive winter warmer ale, Jubelale, now in its 26th year, actually is the first brew ever bottled by Deschutes. With six types of hops and five types of malts, I found this impressively flavorful and complex. It opened with roasted coffee and chestnut (or was it chicory?) aromas that carried into the mouth. That palate carried its 6.7 ABV well and showed excellent depth, offering mocha and malt character, with a sharp hoppy (70 IBU) lift in the finish.

 

 

Chasin’ Freshies Fresh Hop IPA. Another fresh hop beer, this one comes from the Bond Street Series (their seasonal special release program). In contrast to Hop Trip, it is made with newly harvested Bravo and Amarillo hops (note: last year’s version emphasized Cascade hops) and at 65 IBU, nearly three-fourths more IBU. These are complimented with Pilsner Malt and Flaked Oats
. And it sure is fresh. There is a lot of grapefruit, fairly high alcohol (7.2 ABV), but also an earthy note and an intriguing suggestion of green grass.

 

The next two beers, like Jubelale, are best suited with dessert or after dinner. They also are capable of aging for up to a year.

 

Black Butte Porter XXV. This 25th Birthday Reserve of Deschutes’ flagship  beer uses cocoa nibs and roasted coffee from local producers. A final aging in whiskey casks imparts intensity and complexity. This well structured drink has so much going on I picked up layers of chocolate, coffee, anise and dried fruit – fig, currant, berry, plum, cherry, and date. And it packs quite a punch with 11.3 ABV and 65 IBU.

 

 

 

Abyss 2013 Reserve Imperial Stout. The eighth vintage of this extreme stout is a powerhouse – note its 11.0 ABV and 70 IBU. It is made with licorice and blackstrap molasses, vanilla bean and cherry bark all aged in bourbon, pinot noir and Oregon oak barrels. What you get out of all this is a concoction that offers hints of molasses, licorice, chocolate, and caramel in a frame of great depth and complexity.

 

 

Oskar Blues

 

Old Chub. A really fascinating Scottish strong ale, its generous amounts of malted barley and specialty grains, with a dash of beechwood-smoked malt result in a full flavored brew – also evidenced by it 8% ABV and 60 IBU. Earthy aromas of mocha, date, caramel, and toasty brown sugar are followed by flavors of roasted grains, sweet malt, caramel raisin, cocoa, blueberry, mocha, and spice. Whew!

 

 

Ten Fidy Imperial Stout. And then there is this, an impressive stout, large scaled in every way (10.5 ABV 98 IBU). It is strong and full and complex but not heavy. Start with an opening blast of resin, molasses, roasted barley, oat, chocolate, caramel, and coffee balanced with strong hoppy character. In the mouth there is more of the same but you will immediately notice a roasted malt flavor (likely from the two-row malt and chocolate malt) finishing with a nice bitter note that actually seems understated given its high IBU.

 

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RIDGE LYTTON SPRINGS, THE EPITOME OF ZINFANDEL

FROM MY CELLAR:

 

Zinfandel is a curiously underappreciated variety. Forty years after its renaissance I still find myself having to explain to family, friends and acquaintances what it is, let alone just how great it can be. Even among my wine loving associates I am one of the few to list it among my favorite varieties.

 

So, I have made it part of my mission as a wine writer to sing its praises and have done so for all of the twenty years I have been writing about wine. I recently tasted more examples of what the grape can produce in California. I have a post on the website reviewing some impressive Zinfandel wines I tasted recently. In this post, I turn you on to the pleasures of the 2004 Ridge Vineyards “Lytton Springs” ($33 upon release in 2006).

 

It is worth noting that although the wine is 79% Zinfandel, 18% Petite Sirah, and 3% Carignane, the label focuses the vineyard. This is a common practice at Ridge, as CEO/Winemaker Paul Draper (who has been at Ridge over fifty years and is recognized as one of the world’s great winemakers) is known for his emphasis on site-specific wines. And Lytton Springs is not just a great zinfandel vineyard; it has been identified as one of the great vineyards in the world. We shouldn’t be surprised it is located in the Dry Creek Valley, which is well known as one of the most hospitable places to grow zinfandel.

Lytton Springs lies just north and west of Healdsburg on benchland and rolling hills. It benefits from foggy mornings followed by by warm, sunny afternoons and cool evenings. This and the not particularly fertile gravelly clay soils ensure that the grapes ripen slowly and achieve a balance that often proves elusive in other zinfandel vineyards.

 

Ridge had purchased Lytton Springs grapes beginning in 1972; then over the years took opportunities to buy various blocks until by 1995 they owned the complete estate including the winery. Sustainable and organic practices are followed in the vineyard and the winery. For instance, the new winery emphasizes energy conservation, solar energy, and environmentally sustainable construction materials.

 

In the vineyard, Lytton Springs supports 100 plus-year-old zinfandel vines planted in a “field blend” with petite sirah, carignane, mataro (also known as mourvèdre), and grenache. Draper’s and Ridge Vice President of Winemaking-Lytton Springs John Olney’s respect for the site is evident in the sustainable farming practices and moving it toward organic certification. This respect also means they maintain the field blend and focus on harvesting the grapes at optimal ripeness (too many wineries today harvest overripe grapes) to achieve wines that balance fruit and soil characteristics with manageable tannins and alcohol. Although Zinfandel can reach extremely high alcohol, this 2004 wine came in at an elevated but reasonable 14.5%.

 

The 2004 Lytton Springs is a beacon of what the zinfandel grape can achieve when grown in the right place and crafted by the right hands. Each variety and each lot were fermented separately with the natural yeast and the wine was allowed to undergo natural malolactic fermentation. After light egg white fining, it was aged on the lees and spent thirteen months in air-dried American oak.

Even at nine years of age the wine was still fresh and vibrant when I tasted it. Its aromas opened with pure brambly blackberry, accented with caramelized wood notes and hints of stone, and finished with a whiff of black pepper. Its beautiful, sweet tasting fruit was delivered in an excellently firm structure and a seamless texture that allowed the wine to slide deftly across my palate. The wine finished full and rich, with still some tannin. It easily could have kept for a few more years. After time in the glass, hints of black licorice emerged in the nose and especially the mouth.

 

I have been drinking Lytton Springs since the 1970’s (and every vintage since 1990) and the great balance of varietal fruit and terroir this 2004 delivered in an elegant, yet concentrated wine makes this one of my favorite Lytton Springs.

 

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THE INFINITE MONKEY THEOREM: URBAN WINERY SETS THE STANDARD FOR COLORADO WINE

The Infinite Monkey Theorem (IMT) is an urban winery located in the emerging (some say “hip”) RiNo (River North) district of Denver, Colorado. The Infinite Monkey Theorem also is a thought experiment that some have suggested dates as far back as Aristotle. In its simplest form, it basically postulates that a monkey hitting keys at random on a typewriter for an infinite amount of time will eventually type something intelligible.

1979 album from the great British Rock group

IMT (the winery) Founder and Winemaker Ben Parsons apparently chose the name because he saw it as an apt metaphor for winemaking. A winemaker essentially takes grape juice; puts it through various treatments; makes certain adjustments; and then hopes it ultimately turns into a delicious finished product.

 

While the probability of the theorem ever being proved is highly questionable (remember, it requires infinity), it’s relevance is vindicated with every new vintage of IMT wine. The winery just celebrated its fifth anniversary and in this short time arguably has garnered more attention and accolades than any other Colorado winery.

 

I had tasted several of the wines before and even attended their legendary “S’wine at the Mine” event at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen. I also was aware IMT, since its beginning, has made a name for being an innovator and skilled at marketing. This includes its attention grabbing labels and embrace of alternative packaging – namely cans, kegs, and growlers.

 

So, I decided it was time to visit the winery itself. Ben wasn’t around the day I was there but I enjoyed the company of the assistant winemaker Adam Teitelbaum.

 

The winery is housed in a 29,000-square-foot building that used to be the home of a weatherization agency. Today, it is a central member of a rapidly developing neighborhood. This space has allowed IMT to develop its consumer program to include tours, barrel tastings, and service in the Wine Lab tasting room, as well as private events (like a VIP party for the US Pro Cycling event) and weekly open-house parties. It was explained IMT seeks to be in tune with the younger demographic that is coming to characterize the neighborhood, which translate to various efforts to make wine more accessible and fun.

 

 

 

Adam explained, being an urban winery means being deeply involved with its neighborhood. IMT also hosts a regular schedule of community events, often partnering with local restaurants to provide the food. This past summer included live music for
 “First Friday Art Walk”, “Third Thursday Summer Supper & Song”, and painting and yoga classes. There is even a garden on the premises that supplies produce for a local restaurant. IMT also partners with The University of Colorado Cancer Center, donating a portion of all sales to cancer research.

 

The winery also has demonstrated its commitment to Colorado, using almost exclusively grapes from the Grand Valley on Colorado’s Western Slope, not to mention a willingness to experiment with lesser known grape varieties and blends. Adam showed me a good example of this during the tour: resting bottles of (what the winery says is Colorado’s first) Champagne Method sparkling wine, made with Colorado-grown albariño grapes, and just waiting to be hand riddled.

 

IMT will produce about 10,000 cases for the 2012 vintage from 146 tons of grapes. The location has the capacity to produce 25,000 cases from 400 tons of grapes. In the meantime, we tasted through some very good wines. My notes follow.

 

2012 Sauvignon Blanc & Semillon ($20) – green apple and citrus given more intrigue with lightly smoky and pleasantly chalky elements, held up with refreshing acidity

 

2012 Cabernet Franc ($25) – opens with floral, red plum, cassis, and spice that all carry over into a tasty drink showing the promise for this grape in Colorado

 

2012 Syrah ($25) – enticing blackberry fruit with added complexity from mineral, leather, and pepper notes, this is a rich wine, with a luscious texture and solid structure; this was my favorite sample; and it’s sealed with glass stopper; really cool

2013 Syrah fermenting in open top container

The Blind Watchmaker series is the winery’s signature line. I assume it is named after the book “The Blind Watchmaker: Why the Evidence of Evolution Reveals a Universe without Design” by evolutionary biologist Richard Dawkins. Unfortunately, I didn’t get a chance to pursue with my guide the relevance of this idea to IMT’s winemaking. Maybe next time. Regardless, the two wines reveal a design to please even the mot discriminating drinker.

 

2012 The Blind Watchmaker White ($25) – viognier and roussanne blend, aged nine months in neutral oak, showed nice butterscotch, honeysuckle and tropical fruits with good structure holding it all up

 

2012 Blind Watchmaker Red ($25) – petit verdot and merlot lead the blend with cabernet franc and syrah plus a dollop of viogier, blackberry, cherry and blueberry are wrapped in vanilla, followed by a whiff of graphite, solid fruit in the mouth flows along a seamless frame

 

IMT also produces varietal Riesling, Chardonnay, Verdelho (that’s right, the Portuguese grape), Petite Sirah, Petite Verdot, Black Muscat, Semillon, Malbec and a Rose, and just introduced its first dessert wine, a 2012 Orange Muscat.

 

The premier blend of the portfolio is the “100th Monkey,” a creative blend of cabernet franc, syrah, petite sirah, and malbec that has received high marks in national wine publications. The “hundredth monkey effect” refers to the proposition that once enough people adopt an idea or action, it can reach a threshold or critical mass that suddenly becomes accepted practice in the broader society. The idea has been promoted in popular culture through such works as Douglas Adams’ “The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy” and Ken Keyes, Jr.’s “The Hundredth Monkey.”

 

It is another fitting metaphor, as the folks at IMT seem to be operating on the principle that if they can attract enough people to try their wine, a tipping point will be reached and pretty soon everyone will be drinking it.

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FROM MY CELLAR

FROM MY CELLAR

 

2006 Mayacamas Chardonnay Napa Valley – Mt. Veeder ($35 on release)

This wine is all about delicious subtlety and balance. It reveals aromas of pure lemon and a suggestion of white peach with a layer of butterscotch and a steely note. These qualities carry over in the mouth where they are joined by stony (maybe flinty) qualities and nutty notes. It’s all delivered in a structure that is firm and crisp and picks up some viscosity midpalate, but stays light on its feet.

 

Those of you who prefer big, buttery Chardonnays may not like this as much as I do. I like some of those wines, too. But I find this Mayacamas much more satisfying. Everything is in proportion and no quality is overbearing.

 

The thin, rocky volcanic soil at Mayacamas’ mountain vineyard and the comparatively mild summers and but cold winters are conducive to high acid, intensely flavored grapes. In the cellar, this wine was spared malolactic fermentation and aged six months in larged American oak, then a year in smaller French oak barrels. It is typical for Mayacamas’ Chardonnays to reach maturity at five to eight years of age. And this one seems to have hit the mark right on schedule.

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HOPE FAMILY SHOWCASES THE BEST OF PASO ROBLES

On a recent press trip to Paso Robles, sponsored by Hope Family Wines, our host Austin Hope set the tone for the visit when he said it was his goal to show us the diversity of the region, not just his wines. I welcomed this, not only because Hope’s wines have long been among my favorites but also because I had been to Paso twice before and was eager to see how the region has developed.

 

Paso Robles is the largest American Viticultural Area (AVA) in California. It is also the name of the main town of about 30,000, whose original name was El Paso del Robles (“Passage of the Oaks”). But, after my visits to the area, I think Paso could just be short for “passion.

Austin Hope oversees Hope Family Wines (www.hopefamilywines.com), a family-owned and -operated enterprise encompassing five brands: Liberty School, Treana, Candor, Austin Hope and Troublemaker wines. Austin’s father, Chuck Hope moved his family from the Central Valley to Paso in 1978 to plant wine grapes pioneering families of the region. After growing grapes and developing vineyards throughout the eighties and early nineties, the family became convinced Paso Robles was capable of producing world-class wines and began producing their own wines.

 

They joined a handful of other pioneering families who helped promote the region, not just as a source of fine quality grapes but also as a complete wine travel destination. Today, Austin and Hope Family Wines also epitomize Paso Robles’ reputation for being on the cutting edge, a reputation Austin has fostered by experimenting with Rhone-style blends and multiple vintage wines.

At a tour of the Huerhuero Vineyard, a longtime source for entry level Liberty School wines, on the Eastside of Paso Robles, and of the nearby Hope Family Wines winemaking facility, we learned from General Manager of Vineyard Operations Suhky Sran, Winemaker J.C. Diefenderfer, and Assistant Winemaker Samantha Taylor about the family’s role in developing vineyards throughout Paso Robles and how they work with over 50 family-owned vineyards to produce fruit for the Liberty School wines. The brand had bee created in the 1970’s by the Wagner family of Napa’s Caymus Vineyards and the Hopes collaborated with the Wagners since the late 1980’s to supply cabernet sauvignon grapes. He Hope’s then took over sole responsibility for the brand in 1996.

 

Today, there is a range of varietals that deliver consistent quality for the money and are regularly recognized as a “Good Values” and “Best Buys.” Look for Cabernet Sauvignon (2010, $14), Chardonnay wines (2011, $14), Pinot Noir ($20), and Liberty School Merlot ($16). The wines are made in a more restrained, food friendly style with forward fruit, good varietal character, and moderate alcohol.

 

The Hopes then established Treana Winery in 1996, to produce high-end Rhone-style blends from Paso Robles and Central Coast fruit. JC explained to us the name Treana symbolizes the trinity of natural elements – sun, soil and ocean – that make Paso Robles and the Central Coast exceptional for growing wine grapes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

To give us a flavor for what this means, we toured the Mer Soleil Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands near Salinas (our only stop outside of Paso Robles). This Monterey County-based vineyard is the long-time major source for Treana White, one of the first white Rhone-style blends and still one of the most highly regarded. The current vintage (2011, $23) is a blend of equal parts viognier and marsanne. Floral and tropical aromatics precede ripe pear and honey flavors combined with a lush texture and balancing acidity.

 

The Treana Red (2010, $45), which Austin considers his flagship wine, is a blend of cabernet sauvignon and syrah. It combines the depth and structure of a Cab, with the fullness and class of syrah. It is a perfect example of Austin’s willingness to work outside-the-box. Not many wineries were combining Rhone and Bordeaux blends when he created this wine almost twenty years ago.

The Hopes also own a vineyard on the Westside of Paso Robles planted primarily to syrah and grenache, with some mourvedre. Austin crafts wines inspired by the Northern Rhône Valley from this estate grown fruit. Known as the Hope Family Vineyard, it is located 20 miles east of the Pacific Ocean in the Templeton Gap district of Paso Robles. The site’s rocky soils of clay and limestone make it ideal for the Rhône varietals to which it is planted.

 

At this site, we were given a fascinating overview of the sustainable farming practices – certified by Sustainability in Practice (SIP), www.sipcertified.com – employed in the vineyard. Beth Vukmanic Lopez, Sustainability in Practice Certification Manager explained how for over 15 years, SIP has helped growers, vineyards and consumers rethink their approach to sustainability. As Beth said, SIP Certified sustainable vineyards and wines is about looking at the whole farm and considering “people, planet and profit.” In this sense, SIP is complementary to organic practices, not necessarily a replacement. Of course, a winery needs to make a profit to stay in business but that is closely tied to the quality of the wines, which depends on the quality of the grapes, which is connected to healthy vineyards. But SIP practices also consider the well being of the vineyard and winery workers, an often over looked factor. An important element to the success of the program is the third party certification SIP provides using independent auditors.

 

At the winery and tasting room on site, we enjoyed a barrel tasting of 2012 vintage Austin Hope Syrah and Grenache. Austin told us he uses traditional Côte-Rotie as his benchmark in making his syrah. But, being in California, he added he likes his wines to taste like the old world wines “but with a little bit more.”

This approach showed through the current vintages we tasted. The Syrah (2010, $42) displayed a balance of savory and fruit elements. Aromatic, intense and full-bodied, it also was elegant with pure berry fruit, licorice and earthy complexity. The Grenache (2010, $42) revealed characteristics of dried red fruits, earth and spices with good concentration, firm acidity and soft tannins.

 

The Hopes haven’t stopped to rest on these successful brands. Another label, “Candor” was created in 2008. These multi-vintage wines, a Merlot and Zinfandel, are crafted from specially selected fruit from a variety of Central Coast vineyards. They exhibit excellent varietal flavor at a reasonable price. We tasted the Zinfandel Lot 4 ($20) and Merlot Lot 3 ($20), which I found notable for their true varietal flavor and fresh, bright fruit.

 

Finally, the newest label in the Hope Family stable, “Troublemaker,” places Austin Hope’s creativity and willingness to challenge convention on full display. Troublemaker Blend 6 ($20) is a multi-vintage montage of 50% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Zinfandel and 10% Petite Sirah. Its profile reflected its name with brash fruit and lively texture.

While it was great to learn about all the Hope wines, the trip was made really special by the inclusion of visits to some of Paso Robles most notable artisan producers and restaurants.

 

Villa Creek (www.villacreek.com) has long been a destination restaurant for Paso Robles.

Artisan (www.artisanpasorobles.com) grows some of its ingredients at a local organic farm and showcased a distinctive wine on tap program.

Thomas Hill Organics (www.thomashillorganics.com) is a casual market-bistro that serves spectacularly fresh food, not surprising since most of it comes from their own organic farm.

Il Cortile Ristorante (www.ilcortileristorante.com) features exceptional homemade pastas, fresh seafood, and top-quality meats.

 

All of the restaurants craft dishes as much as possible from seasonal, locally grown ingredients from small producers, much of it organically or sustainably farmed. At these restaurants, farm-to-table is not just a marketing slogan. They live it every day. I will say without hesitation these places are as good as the best restaurants in any city in the nation.

 

And as if that wasn’t enough, to give us a sampling of the top quality artisan products being produced in the area we also toured two special places.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A visit to the Kiler Ridge Olive Farm (http://kilerridge.com) with founders Audrey Burnam & Gregg Bone was eye opening. Although it is just minutes from downtown Paso Robles the hilly, picturesque location transports visitors to another location, specifically Italy. Kiler Ridge uses sustainable farming practices and currently maintains 2,500 olive trees – varieties originating from Italy and Sicily.

 

Gregg and Audrey were gracious hosts. Gregg provided us with an extensive overview of his production process and explained in amazing detail why most of the “extra virgin” olive oil we buy in the supermarket isn’t really, regardless of what’s on the label.

 

It was particularly enlightening to me to actually taste the difference. The Kiler Ridge oils were noticeably fresher and displayed distinct grassy and peppery flavors. Greg explained this is because his oils have much higher polyphenol content – he even said, “I’m a polyphenol producer, not an olive oil producer.” Polyphenols are strong antioxidants with many health benefits. Bottom line, though, the oils were delicious but admittedly might be an acquired taste for some consumers used to blander commercial oils.

 

And they presented us with the most eye opening taste sensation I have hade in years: vanilla ice cream topped with sea salt, my choice of Kiler Ridge olive oil and balsamic syrup. All I can say is “wow!” It was delicious with all the savory and sweet elements melding together beautifully.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We also took a refreshing break from winetasting for a tour of the Firestone Walker Brewery (www.firestonebeer.com) with Brewmaster Matt Brynildson. Firestone Walker (named for owners Adam Firestone and David Walker) has been brewing since 1996 but moved from Santa Barbara to Paso Robles in 2001. Firestone Walker and Brewmaster Brynildson are one of the nation’s most awarded breweries and are particularly notable for their use of barrel fermentation for several of their ales.

 

I wholeheartedly recommend the next time you are considering a vacation to wine country, make Paso Robles your destination. The number of wineries has grown from about forty 25 years ago to over 200 (mostly small and family-owned) today. But that is only the beginning of this region’s story. Passionate, dedicated artisan producers with a commitment to sustainability are to be found everywhere in the region.

 

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PEOPLE’S PALATE WINERY PROFILE: BONNY DOON VINEYARD

RANDALL GRAHM’S AND BONNY DOON’S QUEST FOR TERROIRISTIC SELF EXPRESSION BEARS FRUIT

 

Over the last few decades, the concept of terroir and its influence on the grapes grown in a given location and ultimately the wine from those grapes has been the subject of an enormous amount of discussion and as much debate. When I first saw mentions of the subject, it was mostly presented in terms of the geography and geology of the soil in which the grapevines are grown. Soon after, conversations incorporated the environmental conditions and climate. Then it was expanded to include factors influenced by humans – particularly the grape growing and winemaking.

 

Nowadays most commentators agree a “terroir driven wine” ultimately reflects the sum of the natural conditions of its place of origin and the human decisions in the vineyard and the cellar that attempt to express the unique characteristics of that location. Actually, beyond that it seems to me the extent to which a wine accomplishes that ideal is a result of a still poorly understood alchemy in which the wine is greater than the sum of its influences.

 

Enter Randall Grahm, a singular winemaking personality known as much for his gift at turning a phrase and clever prose incorporating literary and philosophical references. Mr. Grahm founded Bonny Doon winery thirty years ago and was one of the original “Rhone Rangers” (proponents of California wines made with grapes typical of France’s Rhone Valley). He has long been a proponent of “terroir driven” wines but to many seemed to have lost his way for a period when he focused more on growing his wine business (ultimately to nearly 500,000 cases a year).

 

Now, he has recommitted himself and his operation to making (actually I think he would prefer I say “shepherding” or “facilitating” or maybe “translating”) wines that reflect the vineyard source. A key decision in this regard he says is his decision to only use biodynamically farmed grapes and rely on indigenous yeasts for fermentation. There still are myriad practices employed in the cellar to achieve the style of wine Mr. Grahm prefers (which I would describe as more European – higher acidity, dryer fruit flavors, more earthy and herbal components) but he seems genuinely dedicated to decisions he thinks will produce wines optimally characteristic of their origin.

 

And the quality of the wines, at least based on my recent tasting, more than justify his approach. He still is focusing on Rhone varietals and now also “lesser-known varietals” like the Albarino reviewed below.

 

 

For the whites, the 2011 Albarino ($18) from the Central Coast vineyards Casa Grande near Soledad and Jesperson Ranch in San Louis Obispo is fun to drink. True to its varietal characteristics (the grape is mostly known for its wines from Spain and Portugal), this wine is fairly aromatic and quite lively in the mouth. I enjoyed its peach, melon and lime fruit, and a creamy note that adds weight.

 

The 2010 Le Cigare Blanc Beeswax Vineyard Arroyo Seco ($26) also is quite fragrant with floral, lemon, pear, and spice notes. This Rhône-style blend of roussanne and grenache blanc comes from a shielded from the cool Pacific winds by the Santa Lucia Mountains vineyard is medium-bodied, with a lush texture (possibly from the full malolactic fermentation) and intriguing mineral characteristics.

 

 

On to the reds, the 2010 Contra ($16) is described as an “Old Vine Field Blend” implying the vineyard sources are planted with multiple grapes and all the fruit is harvested and vinified together. About 2/3 carignane (old, nongrafted, dry-farmed, head-trained vines from Contra Costa County’s Gonsalves Vineyard) and 1/3 syrah (from Santa Maria Valley’s Bien Nacido Vineyard) with splashes of grenache, roussanne, grenache blanc, and mourvèdre, this is similar to a wine we might find from the south of France. Regardless, it is a fine value with mushroom aromas and nice ripe red and black fruits, a touch of licorice and spice followed by a medium body, supple texture and fresh acidity.

 

The 2009 Ca’ del Solo Nebbiolo Monterey County ($45) from the biodynamic Ca’ del Solo Estate Vineyard is rather pricey but it does deliver the goods. On the nose, there are pure red cherry, lightly floral and smoke notes, and maybe even a creamy quality. In the mouth, an underlying element of earth with a touch of fennel is the foundation for a juicy, lighter-bodied, brightly fruited wine.

 

The Chateauneuf-du-Pape style 2008 Le Cigare Volant ($38) has become somewhat iconic since its inception 25 years ago. It was one of the first such wines from one of the first Rhone Rangers. This vintage is 45 percent grenache (mostly from Ca’ del Solo estate) and 30 percent syrah (mostly from Bien Nacido vineyard), with smaller proportions of mourvedre, cinsault, and carignane. It shows tangy plum and hints of cherries and anise. I sense lightly dusty, woodsy notes in the nose. There is similar fruit in the broad mouth, while it closes with powdery, gravelly tannins.

The 2008 Le Cigare Volant Reserve en Bonbonne ($65) is a really interesting wine. It is a selection of the Cigare Volant separated to finish aging in 5-gallon glass bottles (called carboys or “bonbonnes”) rather than barrels or foudres. Possibly because of the nature of this container, particularly its reductive (oxygen free) nature, it does seem to have a bit more structure and taste a little fresher. Still, the bouquet presents evolved notes of dried berries and herbs with a pleasant suggestion of gravel. It is nicely concentrated and dry and finishes with noticeable tannic grip.

 

I would say these two wines are of roughly equal quality, although I preferred the Bonbonne. They’re just made in different styles. Maybe they should be thought of as different expressions of the vineyard sources as interpreted by the winemaker.

 

There also were three Syrahs in my tasting. One, the 2009 Le Pousseur Syrah ($25) was the only wine that didn’t impress me much. There was nothing wrong with its earthy, savory qualities and black cherry fruit. It just seemed rather one-dimensional.

 

In contrast, the 2008 Syrah Alamo Creek Vineyard ($35) had a lot going on. It opened with enticing red fruit. Then it followed with smoky dried herbs and a spice note that for some reason made me wonder if they came from the grape, the barrels in which the wine was aged, or the vineyard (which Grahm says is planted in an old riverbed in San Louis Obispo County). It had a similar flavor profile, with deep fruit, a touch of anise and savory, peppery, meaty flavors. This is all packaged in a solid structure, with distinct dryness, finishing with lively tannins.

 

Finally, the 2008 Syrah Bien Nacido Vineyard ($42) was the star of my tasting. From the cool climate, older vines and calcareous soils of Bien Nacido’s X-block, this is a fantastic wine. It was generous with its tart cherry and juicy berry fruit. Peppery, earthy and meaty elements emerged with time in the glass, all nicely balanced with fresh acidity. As with the best Syrahs, this wine deftly balanced power and elegance.

 

Based on the wines in my tasting, this partnership between the winemakers, wine growers, grapevines, and vineyards is bearing fine fruit and I look forward to following its further development.

 

 

NOTE: All photos obtained from Bonny Doon website.

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WHAT’S COLD, DRY, LIGHT AND WHITE ALL OVER … AND JUST IN TIME FOR JANUARY?

PEOPLE’S PALATE WEEKLY WINE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR JANUARY 7, 2013

No, it’s not snow. It’s white wine from France, at least for the purposes of this column.

 

I admit I usually prefer red wines (and Port!) during the cold months but recently I suddenly had a hankering for some crisp whites, cold weather be damned. These wines from Alsace and Loire really hit the spot. So, I thought I’d share them with you. And, keeping in mind your post-holiday bank accounts may be somewhat depleted, all are under $20 a bottle.

 

Something like 92 percent of all Alsatian wine is white. Unlike other French regions, the best wines (those whose appellation of origin is controlled by law, known as A.O.C.) are labeled with the name of the grape variety (and the wine inside is 100 percent). Of particular interest to me, the region is the premier home of my two favorite white grape varieties – riesling (although Germany ranks here, too) and gewürztraminer.

At their best, these wines have excellent fruit intensity, intriguing savory notes, and fine balancing acidity. And Pierre Sparr is one of the best producers. The firm’s entry-level wines (all screw capped) are excellent introductions to the region. The 2011 Riesling ($15) is lightly floral with juicy lime and peach fruit, a stony element and firm acidity. The 2011 Gewurztraminer ($17) delights with intense aromas of tangerine, peach and pear and off dry, textbook lychee flavors, with a touch of anise in a rich, oily texture wine. The 2010 Alsace One ($13) is a blend of muscat, riesling and pinot gris. It is fragrant and floral with lively tropical, apple and mineral notes, good acidity and a crisp finish.

 

At the far west end of the Loire Valley within reach of the Atlantic Ocean’s salty breezes lies the Muscadet appellation. There is much unique about the wines here. Melon de Bourgogne is the only grape variety grown and it is virtually unique to this region, even though it originated in Burgundy. These wines are one of the great accompaniments to fish and seafood, and especially oysters.

 

My favorites come from the Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine area, located between the two rivers in the name. The terrior – igneous and metamorphic rock and the influence of the ocean – produces very dry wines but they are light and crisp, with fresh citrus (lemon, lime, grapefruit) aromas that evoke the ocean breeze, brisk acidity offset with minerality, and a tangy, occasionally slightly bitter finish. They are vinified sur lie in which the lees (yeast cells remaining after fermentation) are kept in the wine until bottling to enhance the lively character. The 2009 Andre Michel Bregeon ($16) really evokes the saline spray of the nearby ocean and those oysters you’ll be eating with it. The 2010 Domaine de la Quilla ($13) shows more of the stony minerality. Finally, the 2008 les Clissages D’Or ($16) emphasizes the citrus and herbal qualities.