Category: Recommendations

From what I read in industry publications, Australian wine has been struggling in export markets recently, including the U.S., at least compared to the days when easy drinking volume brands dominated. Regardless, there has continued to be plenty of quality wines available for those who care to look for them. I sampled a few recently and found the wines below, especially the Yangarra, to be solid reds delivering fine value for the money. They emphasize quality over quantity.

• 2014 Insurrection Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon ($17). From cool climate regions of South Eastern Australia (Barossa Valley, Langhorne Creek and Padthaway), its 15% alcohol is consistent with its bold red fruits, mocha and powerful impact.
• 2013 Criterion Collection Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva ($17). This negociant sources wines from select regions around the globe. This one comes from Coonawarra in South Australia, a region coveted for fine Cabs, and shows nice plum with a hint of eucalyptus.
• 2014 Robert Oatley Cabernet Sauvignon Signature Series ($23). Regarded as one of Australia’s top winemakers for forty years, Oatley’s team uses fruit from the Western Australian region of Margaret River. It offers classic cab notes of dark berries and tobacco.
• 2013 Yangarra Grenache Old Vine ($32). I’ve enjoyed several previous vintages of this wine and the 2013 does not disappoint. From a biodynamically farmed vineyard in McLaren Vale, South Australia, these old vines have yielded a full, rich wine with intense dark berry fruit and intriguing meaty qualities.

By comparison, New Zealand wine has gained in popularity in the U.S. in recent years. Industry data shows the U.S. is now New Zealand’s biggest export market by volume. Admittedly, this is mostly on the strength of its unique style of Sauvignon Blanc, which now ranks second in the U.S. market among imported varietals by origin. Here’s a couple of white’s worth seeking out.

• 2015 Giesen Sauvignon Blanc ($15). From Marlborough on the South Island this family owned winery has fashioned a wine that displays light touches of the characteristic green fruits (gooseberry and lime) with a crisp, tart finish.
• 2014 Kim Crawford Unoaked Chardonnay ($17). Illustrating the popularity of New Zealand wine, Impact Databank lists Kim Crawford as the fourth largest wine brand priced above $14 in the U.S. This wine from the South Island’s East Coast expresses its tropical and citrus fruits unencumbered by oak, yet still drinks with enjoyable nutty tones and creamy texture.

New Zealand also has gained much attention rightly for Pinot Noir. Especially Pinot Noir from the South Island region of Central Otago, these wines tend to earthiness and harmonious purity of fruit.

• The 2012 Loveblock Pinot Noir ($34) is a good example of this. This winery is the labor of love of Erica and Kim Crawford (yes, that Kim Crawford). The wine’s estate grown grapes (their “Someone’s Darling Vineyard”) benefit from the location in a warmer area of Central Otago, typically a cooler growing region. It’s bright red fruit aromas are accented with a touch of baking spice and drink crisply with good concentration.
• The 2013 Trinity Hill Pinot Noir ($17) from the North Island region of Hawkes Bay, shows New Zealand can produce quality value priced Pinot, this time from Hawkes Bay this one shows New Zealand can produce quality value priced Pinot, this time from Hawkes Bay.

Trinity Hill’s 2013 ”The Trinity” ($17) also is evidence that other New Zealand reds can provide good value. A blend of 69% merlot, 15% tempranillo, 8% malbec, 4% touriga, and 4% cabernet franc, it has varietal notes of strawberry and cranberry with light spice and a slightly bitter finish. It is pleasantly earthy and fresh with a slightly bitter finish.

South Africa is the other Southern Hemisphere nation coming on strong in the wine world. Although grapes have been grown there for 366 years, it is really only within the last 25 that South African wine has emerged in international markets. Among the red wines, pinotage is South Africa’s most unique grape, while cabernet sauvignon is the most planted. But whites also are worth attention.  Here are just a few examples.

• I was intrigued with the 2014 Bellingham “Pinopasso” ($19), pinotage made in the manner of appassimento (drying the grapes to concentrate the juice) to honor the Italian prisoners of war who had been taken to South Africa during World War II and worked at Bellingham. From the Insignia Series, this is delivers assertive cherry and wild berry fruit with hints of cocoa.
• 2012 Kanonkop “Kadette” ($15). This entry-level blend of 54% pinotage, 29% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot, and 7% cabernet franc is a lot of wine for not a lot of money. From Stellenbosch, the center the South African wine industry, it is a bit rustic but has juicy dark fruits, hints of black olive and tea with a crisp finish
• Another blend from Stellenbosch, the 2013 Mulderbosch Faithful Hound ($25) is a Bordeaux-style mix of 39% cabernet sauvignon, 22% cabernet franc, 16% merlot, 14% malbec, and 9% petit verdot. It drinks full with solid structure and pleasing currant and blackberry offset by notes of tobacco
• Finally, a solid white wine choice is the 2013 Groot Constantia Sauvignon Blanc “Landgoed” ($20). From the first wine estate established at the Cape of Good Hope (1685), this is clean and fresh with green fruits and green herbs and is slightly spicy.

As a settler that came to America from humble origins in Europe (Croatia and southern Italy) and flourished, zinfandel is the quintessentially American grape.

Zinfandel is particularly successful in California. The exuberance and zesty raspberry, cherry and blackberry fruit in these typically bold wines often is accented with spice and a little wild character. They also are great values. Even as prices have crept up in recent years, most of the best wines are under $40. Most of the wines in this column are under $25.

While there are several locations in California where the grape does well, Sonoma County offers particularly hospitable climes. For instance, thirty-year-old Murphy-Goode, which offers a fine lineup notable for whimsical gaming related names, produced the 2013 “Liar’s Dice” ($21), a welcoming blend of Dry Creek Valley and Alexander Valley fruit offering jammy raspberry and black cherry with just a touch of spice.

The Kunde family winemaking history in Sonoma Valley goes back to 1904. Their 2014 ($22) from estate grown, sustainably farmed fruit serves up plump blackberry and baking spice with a supple texture.

In the Dry Creek Valley, the Dry Creek Vineyard has pioneered the grape since its founding in 1972. The 2014 “Heritage Vines” ($22) is the winery’s successful attempt to combine old vine character (rustic, concentrated) with young vine qualities (fresh, elegant). “Heritage” refers to young vines grafted from 100-year-old budwood. This one is toasty, with intense fruit.

With the same winemaker since 1979, Rodney Strong has become a premier Sonoma winery. The 2013 “Knotty Vines” ($25) deftly blends of old vine Russian River Valley, Dry Creek Valley and Alexander Valley fruit. Its blue and black fruits come with anise and woodsy and spicy notes in a solid but inviting frame.

Decoy is the entry level brand in the Duckhorn portfolio of wines. Their 2014 ($25) blends fruit from various Sonoma County sources. It is well-balanced, elegant yet juicy with intense fruit, fresh anise and wood notes.

Although Ridge Vineyards actually is located in the Santa Cruz Mountains near San Jose, Paul Draper (who just retired from Ridge after over fifty years at the helm) has been a leading proponent of Sonoma County Zinfandel. During that time, Ridge has specialized in vineyard specific Zinfandels from all over the state but mostly Sonoma.

The 2014 Geyserville ($40) from Alexander Valley actually is what is called a “field blend” (including petite sirah, carignane, and mataro). So, the resulting wine is only 60% zinfandel. It is full flavored and focused but elegant, with a touch of white pepper. Ridge has been making a wine from this 130-year-old vineyard since 1966. The 2014 Ridge East Bench ($30) is quintessential Dry Creek Valley as it bursts with jammy, spicy cherry fruit accented with baking spices. Unusual for Ridge, it is 100% zinfandel. It is a worthy addition to the iconic Lytton Springs Vineyard wine, also from Dry Creek Valley.

Of course, I like Zinfandel all year long, especially with spicy foods. But it really shines with the barbecue and grilled foods particularly enjoyable this time of year.

NOTE: Featured Image Photo Courtesy of Dry  Creek Vineyard

For decades in California, pinot noir frustrated even the best winemakers. With Burgundy as the benchmark and Oregon making great strides, in California it became known as the “heartbreak grape.” In recent years, though, California has begun to figure out pinot noir. Producers are employing better clones and winemaking matched to more appropriate sites. Today, there are numerous appellations along a 500-mile stretch from Mendocino to Santa Barbara sourcing fine Pinot Noir.

The best sites are characterized by proximity to the Pacific Ocean and are impacted by the associated cooling breezes (and sometimes fog) leading to long growing seasons that encourage optimum ripeness with powerful, fresh acidity, yet notable elegance. I tasted over 60 wines for this report. Most were good but many did not, in my opinion, deliver a level of quality to justify the increasingly high prices. The ones in this report do.

Remote, rugged and sparsely populated, the Anderson Valley of Mendocino County is an unexpected source of fine Pinot Noir. The wines typically are concentrated, with noticeable tannin structure but deftly balance power and elegance as demonstrated by the 2013 FEL Savoy Vineyard ($70), which also reveals varietal notes of red fruits and forest notes. Nearly as good at half the price, the 2014 Jackson Estate ($32) delivers its abundance with grace and poise. Two other wines worth seeking out are the rich 2013 Goldeneye ($55) and the inviting 2013 La Crema Anderson Valley ($50).

Having supplied the most wines in my tasting, I found many good choices from Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley. My favorites were the robust and deep but bright 2013 Patz & Hall Chenoweth Ranch ($60), the pure, complex and expansive 2012 Donum Estate Grown ($72), and the fruitful, luscious 2014 Sonoma-Loeb Dutton Ranch ($39). Not far behind was the savory, luxurious 2013 Davis Bynum Dijon Clone 777 ($55) and the juicy, fresh 2013 Patz & Hall Burnside ($75).

The cool Sonoma Coast is California’s newest “hot” region for Pinot Noir. Disputes about the overly large boundaries aside, producers have found many ideal sites that have garnered high accolades. Patz & Hall dominated my tasting with three fine choices led by the 2014 Jenkins Ranch ($60) – with its concentrated fruit, full body and strong earty, savory notes – followed by the similarly intense 2014 Gap’s Crown Vineyard ($70) and the flavorful, well structured 2014 Sonoma Coast ($48). Not far behind were three wines from MacRostie: 2013 Wildcat Mountain ($50) for its pure fruit and spicy herbs, 2013 Goldrock Ridge ($56) with its supple, savory nature, and 2013 Sonoma Coast ($34) for vibrant fruit and anise tinged character.

Straddling the southern end of Sonoma and Napa counties, Carneros is cooled by winds from the San Pablo Bay. The two wines from Carneros in my tasting both were outstanding. The 2012 Donum Estate Grown ($72) delivered an enticing complex of focused fruit, layered earth, spice and herb notes all riding on a luxurious frame. The 2014 Patz & Hall Hyde Vineyard ($75) was deeply fruited, firmly textured, and attractively earthy.

In California’s Central Coast, notably Monterey, San Louis Obispo and Santa Barbara counties, as with the North Coast, most of the best sites are characterized by proximity to the Pacific Ocean and are impacted by the associated cooling breezes (and sometimes fog) leading to long growing seasons that encourage optimum ripeness with powerful, fresh acidity, yet notable elegance.

In the northern part of Monterey County, certain microclimates enjoy a balance between the cold winds coming off the Monterey Bay and the heat of the Salinas Valley inland. The south facing slopes of the Santa Lucia Highlands is such a place and the wines here have rocketed to acclaim in the last decade, though they are generally small production. The 2013 Patz & Hall Pisoni Vineyard ($90) was the one such wine in my tasting and it shined with jammy dark fruit, lavish texture and lasting impact.

Being closer to the ocean and those strong, cold winds, there are fewer such prime sites in Monterey’s Carmel Valley. Albatross Ridge has found a really good one with coveted limestone soils only seven miles from the ocean. The extreme conditions, including steep slopes, yield sophisticated expressions of Pinot Noir, such as the 2013 Estate Reserve ($55) with its bright fruit and mineral qualities.

Further south in San Louis Obispo County, cool, damp coastal breezes and heavy fog also benefit the small regions of Edna Valley and the adjacent Arroyo Grande Valley. A handful of small, artisan producers have shown the promise of these relatively small growing areas. The 2014 Talley Stone Corral Vineyard ($58) is a fine representative of Edna Valley, marked by textural lushness and beautiful balance. Talley also provided two outstanding wines from Arroyo Grande in my tasting: the amazingly intense, vibrant, deeply flavored 2014 Rincon Vineyard ($64) and the rich, beautifully pure, complexly layered 2014 Rosemary’s Vineyard ($75).

Finally, a few miles farther south in Santa Barbara County (an hour and a half north of Los Angeles) two regions rival Sonoma as California’s best source of Pinot Noir. Typically, Santa Maria Valley wines, such as the 2013 Presqu’ile ($42) tend toward elegance, bright fruit and precise structure, while the 2013 Presqu’ile Vineyard ($60) is fuller bodied with more spice and earth and a silky texture. Also consider the 2013 Dierberg Vineyard ($44), it’s silky, persistent, mineral tinged and generous.

The Santa Rita Hills sub-appellation within the Santa Ynez Valley is distinctive as it runs in a west-to-east direction that efficiently funnels cooling fog and winds from the Pacific Ocean. From Sanford, the pioneering winery of the region, the 2012 Santa Rita Hills ($42) has nice red fruit with pleasant earthy and smoky notes. More recently, Sea Smoke has emerged as a benchmark winery of the area. Its 2013 Southing ($60) offers loads of fruit and lively structure, yet drinks approachable with intriguing savory notes.

LOOK TO GERMANY AND FRANCE FOR WHITE WINE ALTERNATIVES

For the last installment in my series of columns on white wines to cool off this hot summer, I am excited to be reviewing wine from Germany and Alsace. These regions source my favorite white grapes, specifically riesling and gewürztraminer, but also pinot gris and pinot blanc.

From my recent tasting, I present several good entry-level wines that are notable for their fresh fruit, mineral or spice character, and refreshing acidity, and for being mostly dry and low alcohol.

The Mosel River Valley is the most picturesque and romantic of all German wine regions and the Fritz Haag winery and vineyards is located in Brauneberg in the heart of the central Mosel, considered by many the prime source for great German Riesling.

These 2014 Rieslings are fantastic values at $22. The “Trocken” is dry as its name indicates, with bright green apple and peach and a sense of its reddish slate origins. The Mosel “Qualitatswein” reveals hints of sweetness with fresh peach, citrus and fine slate. Both are rather intense but drink with finesse.

Great wine also is made along the Ruwer River, a tributary of the Mosel, south of the city of Trier. Here, the von Schubert family has produced great wines under the name Maximin Grünhauser since the late nineteenth century.

The 2014 estate Rieslings also are fine values at $22 and are light and elegant but full flavored. The “Feinherb” is juicy and a smooth texture mineral grip spice honey and apple off dry savory and complex. The “Trocken” is bright and fresh, solidly structured with steely, crisp apple and pear savory notes.

In the nearby Rheingau, the Robert Weil estate’s Wilhelm Weil farms the family’s vineyards, which have been around since 1875, organically. At the risk of sounding like a broken record, the 2014 Rieslings are great values delivering aromatic, intense and bracing drinks at just $20.

The “Trocken” offers abundant pome, citrus, pear and stone fruits, with power and a sense of richness, accented with steely and stony impressions, finishing with a touch of spice. The “Tradition” is slightly sweet, with tangy, brisk lemon and peach, and a steely finish.

Robert Weil also supplied the two exceptions to this column’s mostly dry criteria. They are more expensive but their extra ripeness and intensity justify the splurge. The 2013 Tradition Kabinett ($30) wraps stony, mineral qualities around slightly sweet, luscious peach, lemon and apple. The 2013 Tradition Spätlese ($40) impresses with its aromatics and lively but creamy texture, while presenting deep, honeyed fruit.

The Pfalz is Germany’s second largest wine region and a leading proponent of dry Riesling. Villa Wolf, an estate dating to 1750s, has produced two fine 2014 wines for a modest $12. The Dry Riesling sports steely green citrus and the (surprise) Gewürztraminer offers a lovely peach and citrus with a gulpable freshness.

Just across the border between Germany and France, the Alsace region also is revered for its Rieslings. Typically the wines carry more weight but the aromatics and acidity are just as bracing. The 2013 Hugel Riesling “Hugel” ($22) is a fine example. Founded in 1639, this still family owned company rich and ripe white fruits dry citrus fruit

But Alsace excels with other grapes, too. Like the very aromatic 2013 Trimbach Gewürztraminer ($24) and its bright fruit, full-body, concentrated orange and spicy finish. I also enjoyed the 2013 Gustave Lorentz Pinot Blanc Reserve ($20) for its citrusy freshness and the 2014 Cave de Cleebourg Pinot Gris “Prestige” ($15), a fairly full-bodied wine with nice pear and peach and a rich texture.

Look to Germany and France for White Wine Alternatives

For the last installment in my series of columns on white wines to cool off this hot summer, I am excited to be reviewing wine from Germany and Alsace. These regions source my favorite white grapes, specifically riesling and gewürztraminer, but also pinot gris and pinot blanc.

From my recent tasting, I present several good entry-level wines that are notable for their fresh fruit, mineral or spice character, and refreshing acidity.

2014 Maximin Grünhauser

Carl von Schubert produces beautifully light and clear, highly delicate Rieslings from the Ruwer. Riesling cannot taste finer than here. finesse and transparency

Riesling Feinherb, ($22)

[87] pure and elegant and balanced with juicy fruit and a smooth texture but also a nice mineral grip and salinity in the long finish.

(90) exotic spice here with honey and apple off dry and juicy but also savory and complex, finishing on a lingering, slightly bitter note.

Riesling Trocken ($22)

[87] bright and fresh light, round and dry elegance and finesse, and nicely structured finish with nutty flavors. The delicate acidity is stimulatingly fresh.

(85) Ripe apple and baked pear are matched to savory notes

(88) earthy and bitter minerals lend a savory tone to the apple and lime- dry crisp and sheer but finishes bold with a steely, cool resonance

2014 Fritz Haag

bright, clear, elegant and finesse stunning, refined and terroir-driven wines

For Fritz Haag in nearby Brauneberg in the heart of the central Mosel, the tradition goes back to 1605. Also an accomplished producer of sweet Rieslings, even the entry level 2013 Trocken ($22) transmits a sense of the reddish slate soil under pinning the bright green apple and honeydew.

Riesling Trocken ($22)

[88] clear and intense bouquet of ripe apples intermixed with lovely slate aromas Full-bodied, round and elegant, juicy Riesling with tropical fruit and ripe peach aromas; well balanced Bottled stunningly intense and aromatic

(87) Notes of honeysuckle and almond to the citrus and ripe apple and pineapple crisp acidity.

(91) Cool, mineral elegance and pristine tangerine and quince zesty, dry and light bodied with a lemony finish

Mosel Riesling QbA ($22)

[90] lovely, clear, bright, fresh and delicate with nice white stone fruit and fine slate, round, light and fruity, frisky and filigreed Riesling of great finesse.

(86) Peach and ripe apple, with firm acidity and notes of dried herb. Finishes with hints of pineapple and sage.

(91) a touch of honey-lemon sweetness zesty, citrus, lip smackingly fresh, green herb and lime notes

Robert Weil Rheingau

Wilhelm Weil, organic farming

Across the Rhein River north of Rheinhssen, the Rheingau, is one of the most distinguished wine regions of the world. And while that reputation has been built on the sweeter wines, today many fine trocken are being made – like these two from Robert Weil. The 2013 Riesling Trocken ($20) delivers a lot of wine for the money. Following pure, intense aromas of nectarine and gooseberry, an initial steely, minerally impression in the mouth is joined by juicy and a touch spicy flavors.

2014 Trocken ($20)

[87] clear, precise and aromatic white peach, intense and racy, with power and juiciness, mineral

(88) Juicy and fresh, citrus, pear and apple, hints of pepper and dried sage show on the crisp, minerally finish

(90) Steel and stones, lemon and grapefruit, medium bodied but texturally quite rich,

2014 Tradition ($20)

[90] a lovely, clear, precise and aromatic, white fruits, piquant and racy, slightly sweet great finesse and elegance, low alcohol is below 11%

(89) a bit tight and closed off, brisk off-dry fresh, tart lemon and peach flavors, mineral with a honed, steely finish

2013 Tradition Kabinett ($30)

[89+] 2014 intense and stony, quite ripe and sweet, concentrated, almost Spätlese and quite rich

(89) Well-structured, lemon and apple, accented by hints of cream, crisp and pure, with a zesty finish

(92) Whispers of saffron and pollen lend mineral intensity to succulent yellow peach and cherry notes juicy revitalizing semisweet

2013 Tradition Spätlese ($40)

[87+] 2014 a selection from the three hillside crus and the Wasseros; intense fruit and slate, round and sweet, elegant, very accessible with a nice grip and salinity in the finish

(91) Direct and fresh, with delicate apple and lemon, hints of honey and allspice, lively and elegant, creamy texture.

(94) profoundly aromatic, sprightly-sweet, opulent floral perfume of rose petals and orange blossoms, remarkably elegant, crisp honeydew and peach flavors zesty

2014 Villa Wolf Pfalz

Just to the south of the Rheinhessen, the Pfalz is Germany’s second largest wine region. Growers here have been proclaiming the greatness of dry Riesling more than any other German region. In my tasting, the Pfalz was represented by Villa Wolf, an estate dating to 1753.

Riesling Dry ($12)

(86) relaxed, apple and pear, zesty spiciness, mint and citrus notes

(87) savory, nutty, slightly smoky fresh tangerine crisp, cutting acidity elegance

2014 Gewürztraminer ($12)

(88) invigorating freshness not complex or concentrated, floral exuberance and crisp peach and pear, quaffable

Alsace

Alsace wines have the weight, aromatics and acidity to accentuate the unique character of just about any fermented food.

Another fun choice would be crisp, dry Alsatian versions of these grapes, like these from Hugel, a family owned company since 1639! The 2013 Riesling ($12) is aromatic and refreshing; the 2012 Pinot Gris “Classic” ($24) is a special selection revealing impressive weight and enticing nutty qualities. Also, check out the spicy lychee of the 2012 Gewürztraminer ($24) and the 2014 “Gentil,” a delicate but aromatic blend.

2013 Hugel Riesling “Hugel” ($22)

pleasing sourness of bracing acidity but fairly rich and ripe

[86] white fruits some nutty lively, bright and clean Pure, racy, bone dry and slightly salty good structure, and grip and refreshing citris fruit

(90) fresh, harmonious, floral overtone mix of nectarine, chalky mineral, orange and pink grapefruit zesty

2013 Trimbach Gewürztraminer ($24)

very aromatic, full-bodied and slightly spicy

[89] bright fruit quite spicy, herbal and floral, lemon, elegant, piquant and mineral mouthwatering salinity and fruitiness, really ripe, fresh and dry well balanced

(90) Linear and finely knit, fresh acidity cantaloupe, nectarine and ginger, minerality in the finish, elegant.

(91) creamy notes of rose, orange and mandarin oil, concentrated, punchy, focuses on taste rather than aroma, rounded and rich, immensely concentrated, structured.

2013 Gustave Lorentz Pinot Blanc Reserve ($20) <NR>

fresh, citrusy unoaked

(84) 2011 Snappy acidity, smoke, melon, kumquat and slivered almond

2014 Cave de Cleebourg Pinot Gris Prestige ($15)

full-bodied, slightly smoky, richly-textured with heady honey and stone fruit aromas

(88) Fresh and creamy, snappy acidity floral, peach, ground spice and smoke notes Tangy citrus and salted almond accents

(84) 2013 soft, rounded and smooth, fresh acidity, ripe pear and quince

2015 Costieres de Pomerols Picpoul de Pinet HB ($10) co-op of 450 growers

[89] lots of salty minerality, bitter citrus and hints of rose petal, juicy, medium-bodied clean and refreshing

(87) 2014 supple texture, apple, citrus and peach almond, fig and savory, spicy finish

<88> fresh and lively, ruby-red grapefruit and zesty acidity

Domaine Collin Cremant de Limoux Brut Cuvee Tradition ($16) <NR>

CRISP, FRESH MEDITERRANEAN WHITES PERFECT FOR SUMMER

As hot as it’s been this summer one would be forgiven for thinking we somehow have been transported to the Mediterranean. Of course, instead of beautiful ocean views, we have beautiful mountain views. But we still can enjoy some crisp, refreshing white wines from Mediterranean countries.

Italy, Spain and Portugal are all countries best known for their reds but their whites can be ideal choices for summer. While there are important differences, they all share enticing aromatic and occasionally mineral notes but mostly a welcome freshness and vibrancy of fruit. With a couple of notable exceptions, these are light, dry wines to sip, gulp and simply enjoy. And they come with the added intrigue of mostly be made from indigenous grapes.

Although Italy’s Pinot Grigio is a clone of France’s Pinot Gris, it is widely planted throughout northeastern Italy and is Italy’s best-known “Bianco.” And many of the best come from the Alto Adige (also called Südtirol in German or South Tyrol in English) near the Dolomiti Mountains nestled between Switzerland and Austria. Importantly, the wines recommended here are not your average light, fruity quaffers.

My favorite was the 2013 Tramin “Unterebner” ($24), a surprisingly complex single vineyard wine of lemon, cashew and caramel, amazing quality from this cooperative of growers. Nearly as good were the 2014 Terlan ($24) – fresh tangerine and pear from a 120 year old producer and the 2015 Erste+Neue ($19) – crisp citrus and peach from one of the oldest cooperatives in the region.

I also enjoyed the 2015 Alois Lageder “Porer” ($25) for stone fruit and mineral notes. The citrusy 2015 Castelfeder “Luna Nuda” ($15) is a solid everyday choice.

And Italy has interesting Bianco beyond Pinot Grigio. Also from Alto Adige, try the 2014 Alois Lageder Gewürztraminer ($25) with lychee, apricot and viscous texture. The 2015 Castelfeder “Vom Stein” Pinot Bianco ($17) impresses with lush green apple and lime.

And here are three very fine wines from central Italy. Abruzzo: stony, plummy 2015 Villa Gemma Colline Teatine (trebbiano grape, $20); Umbria: honeyed peach and pear of 2014 Terre de la Custodia “Grechetto Colli Martani” ($20); Lazio: the creamy, nutty green citrus and caramel of 2012 Falesco “Ferentano” (roscetto grape, $25) from the producer that hs put this relatively unknown region on the wine map.

In Spain, the albariño of Rías Baixas (near the northwestern, Galician coast) has gained the most prestige. My favorite was the 2014 Sin Palabras “Castrovaldés” ($20) from Castro Brey for its lemon, mineral and suggestion of sea breeze.

Close behind was the 2014 Terras Gauda “O Rosal” ($24), for lively citrus, orange and peach deepened with an earthy touch. The winery’s 2014 Abadía de San Campio ($20) pleases with tropical fruit and a nice round texture. The 2014 Pablo Padin “Segrel” ($14) is a good introduction to the grape.

From the Rioja, the 2015 CVNE “Monopole” ($13) is produced using local viura, which, like its namesake macabeo in Penedes, is noted for its aromatics and acidity, in this case honey, lemon, apple and a touch of quinine. Still family-owned, five generations CVNE has been making wine since 1879 and Monopole for 100 years.

Across the border from Rias Baixas, the “green wine” of Portugal’s Vinho Verde region traditionally has received the most buzz among those in the wine industry. But the savvy consumer also should look to the whites of the Alentejo region southeast of Lisbon.

Herdade do Esporão, a leading Portuguese family winery since 1267 in the forefront of introducing Portuguese whites to the modern world, has fashioned several excellent values:

2014 “Duas Castas” 2 ($13), gouveio and antão vaz grapes yield a fruity, enticingly aromatic wine with bracing acidity;

2015 Verdelho V ($16) for tangy green citrus and good concentration;

2014 “Monte Velho” ($10) blends antão vaz, roupeiro and perrum for creamy cashew, green citrus and a grassy note;

2013 “Alandra” ($7), antão vaz, arinto and perrum deliver nutty, creamy apple and lime.

[Featured Image Courtesy of International Riesling Foundation]

SAUVIGNON BLANC PROVIDES FRESHING DRINKING FOR WARMER WEATHER

With the blistering weather, it’s natural for wine drinkers to think about cooling off with a refreshing white wine. While most U.S. consumers still turn first to Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc is an ideal alternative.

It has a noble heritage as a parent of cabernet sauvignon. It is responsible for the Loire Valley wines of Sancerre and Pouilly Fume and, with semillon, white Bordeaux. The grape also has found hospitable surroundings in New Zealand, South Africa, Australia, and Chile. California, too, is excelling.

Sauvignon Blanc’s flavor profile comes in several styles. Generally expect brisk green citrus (lime, gooseberry) and a distinctive herbaceousness. Many also display peach, tropical fruits and melon. It’s typically quite aromatic, with refreshing acidity. These qualities make it an exceptional accompaniment to food.

Sauvignon Blanc also is a relative good value. And the best value of my tasting was the 2015 Rodney Strong “Charlotte’s Home Vineyard” ($17). Its crisp citrus core joined juicy peach and melon notes.

Other good values: 2015 Liberated North Coast ($17) – strong green citrus and lemongrass notes; 2015 J. Lohr “Flume Crossing” ($14) – more green citrus, fresh but slightly sweet; 2015 Decoy Sonoma County ($20) – tropical fruits precede a touch of hay in a crisp a firm but soft style.

One of the most reliable sources of good value Sauvignon Blanc is the Dry Creek Vineyard. Its 2015 Dry Creek Valley ($18) opens with tropical fruit followed by spicy herbal notes. The entry level 2015 “Fume Blanc” Sonoma County ($14) is energetic with pleasing hints of tonic water. And the 2014 “Taylor’s Vineyard” Musqué Clone ($18) is quite aromatic with spicy herb and surprising viscosity.

For just a few bucks more, I found two fine examples from Sonoma’s Russian River Valley, usually better known fro Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The 2015 Martin Ray ($20) neatly blends citrus and tropical fruits. The 2015 Davis Bynum “Virginia’s Block-Jane’s Vineyard” ($25) offers brisk grapefruit with intriguing creamy and spicy tones. And the 2015 Cuvaison “Solitaire” ($24) from Napa Valley deftly balanced citrus and green herb.

I was even more surprised with a good showing from two Santa Barbara samples: 2014 Presqu’ile Santa Maria Valley ($22) with its juicy lime and savory herbs and 2015 Star Lane Happy Canyon ($22) for a nice mix of bready and lively apple to accent citrus.

And in a little diversion to the Northwest, the 2014 J. Christopher Willamette Valley ($20) was colored green with apple and gooseberry and the 2014 Cadaretta “SBS” Columbia Valley ($23) delivered nice round peach and melon benefitting from 20% Semillon.

Finally two of the three most expensive wines delivered on their price premium with extra measures of complexity and flavor. The 2015 Duckhorn Napa Valley ($30) delivered a tight but rich texture and a creamy, licorice infused finish. The 2014 J. Christopher Uber-Sauvignon “Croft Vineyard” ($35) was intensely aromatic with gooseberry and herbal qualities delivered with confident impact.

[Featured Image Courtesy of Wine Folly, http://winefolly.com]

THINK PINK FOR SUMMER’S WINE DRINK

DRY pink wines finally seem to be gaining appreciation in this country. Of course, sweet “blush” wines have been popular for years. Europeans, on the other hand, have known for a long time the joy of drinking a good dry pink wine. The most common term is Rosé (French) but you may also see Rosato (Italian) and Rosado (Spanish).

Expect bright, fresh fruit aromas and flavors of strawberry, cherry, raspberry, or cranberry. Some even exhibit a red wine level of intensity, body and complexity. But the best always display fresh fruit aromas and flavors that approximate the profile of their red siblings but drink more like white wines. Because of their vibrant freshness and lively fruit, pinks are almost always best drunk young, so look for the most recent vintages available.

There are essentially three ways to make a pink wine. The most common method is to crush red grapes and leave the juice in contact with the grape skins (the source of a wine’s color) only briefly. The second technique is a process called “saignée” in which a certain amount of juice is “bled off” shortly after red grapes are crushed. The third approach involves blending white and red wines to the desired effect.

Most wine producing countries now have gotten into the act with a wide variety of grapes.

Among Rosé devotees, France is the prime source. There is a dizzying array of French Rosés from all over the country but most notably the south – places like Provence, Languedoc-Roussillon, Bandol, Cotes-du-Rhone, and Tavel. Rosé from Provence in particular offers consistent quality at reasonable prices.

Rosé from Provence in particular offers consistent quality at reasonable prices. Generally blends dominated by grenache supplemented with syrah and cinsault, my favorite in the tasting was the organically grown 2015 Chateau Sainte Marguerite “Symphony” (40% grenache, 40% cinsault, 20% syrah, $29), followed closely by the 2015 Domaine Saint Aix “AIX” (60% grenache, 20% syrah 15% cinsault, 5% carignan, $19) and 2015 Maison Belle Claire (55% grenache, 25% syrah, 20% cinsault, $15).

Other good choices from France included the 2015 Chateau d’Oupia Minervois (syrah, grenache and cinsault, $17) and the 2014 Saget La Perrière “La Petite Perrière” Loire Valley (100% pinot noir, $14). The best of the bunch, though, was the 2013 Domaine de la Mordoree “la Dame Rousse” (50% grenache, 30% syrah, 20% cinsault, $20). This Cotes-du-Rhone offered focused fruit, balanced with unique richness and complexity.

France’s neighbors also are reliable sources. Here’s a line up of my favorites:

Spain:

2015 Hacienda de Arinzano Rosé de Tempranillo ($20): fresh cherry and raspberry

2015 Vina Real Rioja (85% viura [white grape] and 15% tempranillo, $14): citrus and peach

2015 Cune (CVNE) (100% tempranillo, $14): fresh and tasty strawberry and raspberry

Italy:

2015 Falesco “Vitano” Umbria (30% sangiovese, 30% merlot, 30% cabernet sauvignon, 10% aleatico, $12): juicy strawberries, vibrant cranberry

Portugal:

2015 La Defesa (70% aragonez [Portuguese version of tempranillo] and 30% syrah, $13): raspberries, cherry, watermelon, spice and earth

Other good choices (from places you might not have expected!):

2014 Galil Mountain Galilee (a unique combination of 74% sangiovese, 23% pinot noir, 3% grenache, $12): tangy cherry and raspberry, creamy texture

2015 Villa Wolf Pinot Noir Rosé (from Germany’s Pfalz, $12): spicy cherry and raspberry

2015 Los Vascos Chile (90% cabernet sauvignon, 10% syrah, $14): lovely, creamy cherry, nicely tart

I also have been pleased to find improved quality from California and Oregon:

More good Grenache Rosé:

2015 J. Lohr “Gesture” Paso Robles ($18): juicy, hint of sweetness

2015 Halter Ranch Paso Robles (67% Grenache, 22% Picpoul Blanc, 8% Mourvèdre and 3% Syrah, $21): zesty, tangy raspberry

For you Pinot Noir lovers, these are really satisfying :

2015 Ponzi Willamette Valley ($22): pure, lightly tart cherry and spice

2015 Stoller Dundee Hills ($25): crisp pomegranate and light spice

2015 Willamette Valley Vineyards ($24): earthy, intense spicy cherry

2015 Martin Ray Russian River Valley ($20) savory, creamy plum

2015 Cuvaison “Vin Gris” Napa Valley ($20): firm strawberry and citrus

2014 Balletto Russian River Valley ($18): delightfully fresh citrus and strwberry

And the zinfandel-based 2015 Head High (49% zinfandel, 44% syrah, 4% grenache, 3% tempranillo, $18) offers spicy red berries with a surprisingly creamy texture.

Finally, you can’t beat some fine bubbly during the hot weather:

Ferrari Rosé Trento (pinot nero and chardonnay, $36) vibrant, rich cherry, strawberry

Lucien Albrecht Cremant d’Alsace Brut Rosé (100% pinot noir, $22) strawberry and raspberry with a saline note

Bisol Desiderio “Jeio” Cuvee Rosé (merlot and pinot nero, $17) light, fresh and crisp

And two 100% pinot noir sparkling splurges worth their high cost:

2012 Sea Smoke “Sea Spray” L.D. Blanc de Noirs Santa Lucia Highlands ($80): complex and full, yet elegant

Laurent-Perrier Champagne “Cuvee Rosé” Brut ($99): intense, luxurious and structured, yet drinks with finesse

[Featured Image courtesy of Provence Wine Council]

Whether you realize it or not most wines you drink are blends of multiple grapes from different vineyards, even the ones varietally labeled. And more and more, wineries are featuring wines specifically as blends.

Last November, the consumer survey company, Nielsen identified a growing trend toward more red wine blends, even calling red blends “currently the craft beer of the wine category.” The report also stated “more than 40% of the new entries in 2014 were blends, with more than three quarters of these being reds. No other wine type has even come close to the same amount of new offerings to market.”

For many, the Bordeaux formula of blending various percentages of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec, and petit verdot is the template. For others, the “Super Tuscans” of Italy are the benchmark, though usually substituting zinfandel for sangiovese. Still others take southern France as their inspiration, blending grapes like syrah, grenache, mourvedre, and petite sirah. Finally, some mix and match various grapes to achieve a desired style.

Try any of the wines below (reviewed roughly in order of preference within each category) and you will taste the synergy winemakers can achieve in creating a product that embodies the classic sentiment of the whole being greater than the sum of its parts.

One of the best wines of my tasting, the Bordeaux-style 2012 Franciscan “Magnificat” ($55), is 73% cabernet sauvignon, 19% merlot, 3% petit verdot, 3% malbec and 2% cabernet franc. Solid structure and luscious currant and plum are accented with spice, licorice and firm tannins. Nearly as good, the 2012 Dry Creek Vineyard “The Mariner” ($45) – 56% cabernet sauvignon, 25% merlot, 8% petit verdot, 8% malbec and 3% cabernet franc – impresses for its framing of lush dark fruits, dried herbs and spice.

Two other worthy choices: 2012 Leviathan ($48) – 45% cabernet sauvignon, 25% cabernet franc, 16% merlot and 14% syrah – dense, sweet berries, creamy, cedary notes, smooth texture but tannic backbone; 2013 Taken Napa Valley Red Wine ($30) – 60% cabernet sauvignon and 40% merlot – easy drinking with dark fruits, roasted notes and a refreshing finish

And then there is J. Lohr, which takes the exploration of Bordeaux blends so seriously their “Cuvée Series” (2012, $50) explores three of the main regions of Bordeaux.

• Cuvée POM. Imitating Pomerol – 78% merlot, 14% malbec, 5% cabernet franc, and 3% cabernet sauvignon present powerful tannin and woodsy elements, accented with strong dark fruits
• Cuvée PAU. fashioned after Pauillac – 76% cabernet sauvignon, 10% malbec, 8% merlot, 5% petit verdot, and 1% cabernet franc result in jammy plum and currant, wrapped in forest notes with a touch of tobacco and smooth tannins
• Cuvée ST. E. taking Saint-Émilion as its model – 55% cabernet franc, 34% merlot, 8% malbec, and 3% cabernet sauvignon – rich black fruits and smoky, dusty oak with earthy notes and a suggestion of pencil lead; finishes with strong but disciplined tannins

While J. Lohr’s Cuvee series uses Bordeaux as its reference, Duckhorn Winery’s Paraduxx project for the most part emulates Super Tuscans, with zinfandel standing in for sangiovese.

• 2013 Paraduxx Napa Valley ($48) – 73% cabernet sauvignon, 13% merlot, 10% zinfandel, 4% petit verdot – strong tobacco and mint notes and solid tannins
• 2012 Atlas Peak ($80) – 65% cabernet sauvignon, 35% zinfandel – firm structure from cab complimented with bright zin berry fruit finishing with a touch of spice
• 2012 Paraduxx Howell Mountain ($80) – 60% zinfandel, 40% cabernet sauvignon – dense red fruits with strong mouthfeel and strong tannic finish
• 2012 Rector Creek Vineyard ($80) – 70% zinfandel, 30% cabernet sauvignon – really shows lively, brambly zin fruit with a complex, focused structure
• 2012 “X²”  ($95) – 90% cabernet sauvignon, 10% zinfandel – pronounced “X squared,” its intense, complex, barrel selection

Two other worthy choices: 2012 Cuttings ($50) – mostly cabernet sauvignon with the rest petite sirah and zinfandel – very ripe fruit with peppery spice and round texture; 2013 Field Stone “Convivio” ($16) – 74% merlot, 19% sangiovese, 5% malbec, 2% cabernet sauvignon – noticeable wood, fresh fruit, firm tannins.

Other good examples that don’t necessarily follow any pattern:

2013 Edmeades “Edmeades’ Folly” ($26) – 47% zinfandel, 23% syrah, 15% merlot, 15% petit sirah – from Mendocino, nice sleek sensation burst with juicy berries and good grip

2013 Beast “Wildebeest” ($25) – 59% syrah, 14% cabernet sauvignon, 11% cabernet franc, 8% malbec 7% Grenache, 1% merlot – bright fruit, lively texture, easy drinking

2013 Conundrum ($25) – mostly zinfandel, with petite sirah, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot – sweet red fruits, mint, light tannins

2013 Decoy Red Wine Sonoma County ($25) – 25% merlot, 20% cabernet sauvignon, 15% zinfandel, 15% cabernet franc, 11% petit sirah, 9% petit verdot, and 5% malbec – dark fruits, forest notes, firm impact, clean finish

2013 Taken “Complicated” ($20) – mostly grenache and syrah and a bit of carignan – ripe, juicy berries, touch of pepper, black licorice, smooth texture

2013 Hess Select “Treo” Winemaker’s Red Blend ($19) – 33% petit sirah, 26% syrah, 22% zinfandel, 25% cabernet franc, 16% merlot – nice plum, savory notes, good body, fresh finish

Nonvintage Q & A Red Wine ($15) – merlot and cabernet sauvignon, with ruby cabernet, and petit sirah – opens with pepper and anise, nice spicy zin fruit

2014 Oak Grove “Winemaker’s Red” Family Reserve ($9) – 50% zinfandel, 35% cabernet sauvignon, 15% petite sirah – pie-like plum fruit, soft and juicy, lightly spicy finish

WINEMAKER VISITS OFFER BENEFITS OF FIRST HAND ACCESS

For a wine devotee, Colorado is a blessed place. We have particularly savvy wine consumers and good distribution of a wide variety of wines. Thus, we are graced with countless visits from wineries eager to tap into our sophisticated market.

One of the more enjoyable aspects of being a wine writer is the opportunity to meet and taste with winery personnel and winemakers. Though, I usually don’t write about these visits because of the loss of objectivity given the circumstances.

Occasionally, this is balanced by the knowledge and perspective gained meeting these creative, dedicated individuals. At three recent visits, I tasted wines that I would have recommended under any circumstances.

One such visit was with Theresa Heredia, winemaker at Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery. Founded in 1982, the winery has grown in acclaim for its artisan Russian River Valley Chardonnay’s and Pinot Noirs.

Now Theresa, who joined the winery in 2012 from Joseph Phelps’ Freestone Vineyards, carries on the tradition. She told me she prefers wines with fresh fruit, natural acidity, structure, and earthiness that reflect site specificity.

She feels her emphasis on picking at lower sugar levels, whole cluster fermentation, extended maceration, and judicious use of oak, including fermentation in large puncheons, yield wines that emphasize primary fruit characteristics but develop more interesting and complex, savory qualities.

And it showed in the wines I tasted: impressive single vineyard Pinots from Bacigalupi and Hallberg vineyards and a Chardonnay from Rochioli, as well as eminently drinkable Russian River Valley designated wines.

My other visits of note were from Italians. Talking with Alfredo Falvo it became clear Masseria LiVeli in Puglia is a labor of love for the Falvo family. Alfredo’s father, Alberto built Avignonesi Winery in Montepulciano, Tuscany into a worldwide force while the family owned it from 1974 to 2009. Now, the family is solely focused on LiVeli.

Alfredo shared the interesting history of this property as a “masseria.” The Salento area of Puglia is fascinating for the concentration of these ancient land estates having their roots in the period of the Norman conquest of the South.

And I find it really cool (that’s a technical wine term) that Li Veli focuses its production on traditional varieties. I enjoyed white wines from fiano and verdeca and red wines from negroamoro (Salice Salentino) and primitivo.

Finally, I visited with Giorgia Casadio of Villa Trasqua, named for the high plateau in the Castellina sub-region of Chianti Classico, just north of Siena. Giorgia explained that Villa Trasqua is new to the U.S. and based on my experience these sangiovese-based, mostly organic wines are well worth you seeking out.

Of course, Villa Trasqua produces estate Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Riserva, including a remarkable single vineyard Riserva, “Nerento.” As Giorgia pointed out, I found Villa Trasqua’s wines to balance deftly the traditional savory, high acid Tuscan style with more modern upfront fruit.

But their winemaker, Franco Bernabei, one of the most respected in Italy, also fashions fine “Super Tuscan wines. In addition to the Chiantis, I enjoyed the entry level Traluna but was really impressed with the 2008 Trasgaia, made of 50% sangiovese, 40% cabernet sauvignon and 10% cabernet franc.

I came away from each of these winery visits with a better understanding of the winemaking craft, as well as a better appreciation for the challenges and satisfactions of making world-class wine.