Category: Recommendations

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FRESH ROSÉS AND LIGHT REDS FOR SUMMER SIPPING

Think Pink for Summer!

 

DRY pink wines seem to be gaining appreciation in this country. Of course, sweet “blush” wines have been popular for years. Europeans, on the other hand, have known for a long time the joy of drinking a good pink wine. The most common term is Rosé (French) but you may also see Rosato (Italian) and Rosado (Spanish).

 

I’m talking about wines that are dry or occasionally only slightly sweet. Expect bright, fresh fruit aromas and flavors of strawberry, cherry, raspberry, or cranberry. Some even exhibit a red-like level of intensity, body and complexity. But the best always display fresh fruit aromas and flavors that approximate the profile of their red siblings but drink more like white wines. Because of their freshness and lively fruit, pinks are always best drunk young, so look for the most recent vintages available.

 

There are essentially three ways to make a pink wine. The most common method is to crush red grapes and leave the juice in contact with the grape skins (the source of a wine’s color) only briefly. The second technique is a process called “saignée” in which a certain amount of juice is “bled off” shortly after red grapes are crushed. The third approach involves blending white and red wines to the desired effect.

 

Among devotees, France is the prime source. There is a dizzying array of French Rosés from all over the country but most notably the south – places like Provence, Languedoc-Roussillon, Bandol, Cotes-du-Rhone, and Tavel. But just about every other wine producing country also has gotten into the act.

For instance, I came across a nice 2013 Pedroncelli Dry Creek Valley Signature Collection “Dry Rosé of Zinfandel” ($12). This 87 year-old winery has produced a flavorful rose at a fair price. From Spain, the 2013 Cune Rioja Rosado ($14), made from the dominant local red grape, tempranillo, was fresh and flavorful with tasty strawberry and raspberry notes.

 

And from Esporão, Portugal’s leading family winery since 1267, I have two recommended Rosados. The 2013 “Alandra” at $7 won’t break the bank and shows amazing depth of fruit (dark berries and cherries) for this price. It is a blend of indigenous arogonez and touriga nacional with syrah. The 2013 “Vinha da Defesa” ($15), which blends arogonez and syrah, offers fresh, fruity aromas and a touch of wild strawberries on the palate.

Finally, from South Africa the 2013 Mulderbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé ($12) not surprisingly is made from 100% cabernet sauvignon. It is a bit bigger than your typical rosé, yet is still refreshing with cherry and currant fruit.

 

Light Reds Have Their Place, Too

 

Like most folks, I drink a lot less red wine during warm weather months. But there are lighter reds that can be plenty satisfying this time of year. And don’t be afraid to chill them down a bit.

 

German Pinot Noir. You might think Germany is an unlikely place to look for what we call Pinot Noir and they call Spatburgunder. But try the four wines below and that attitude may change. While Riesling is justifiably the great wine import of Germany, the estates below (located in the Baden region) are considered among the best producers of German Pinot Noir. While a bit pricey and hard to find, these are light and fresh but flavorful and worthy of your attention.

                                                       

  • 2011 Franz Keller “Franz Anton” Schwartzer Adler ($42): bright red cherry, slightly earthy and smoky; bright fruit in the forefront with soft tannin
  • 2011Franz Keller Schwartzer Adler ($25): more complex with dark cherry, brown spices, oak, earth and mushroom notes but drinks with crisp red cherry
  • 2010 Bernhard Huber Malterdinger ($38): deep, sweet berry fruit is up front; earthy note joins a very fresh palate and a nicely bitter touch in the finish
  • 2010 Salwey Trocken ($22): plump dark red fruits blend with bitter herbs and earthy flourishes all drinking juicy and fresh

 

My recent tastings have revealed a handful of other good choices.

 

2010 CUNE Rioja Crianza ($14). This young wine comes from one of Spain’s older wineries (founded in 1879). Dominated by tempranillo with small amounts of local grapes mazuelo and garnacha, fermentation in stainless steel with just one year of oak aging, yields fresh, bright red berries with some earth and elegant, yet lively balance.

 

2012 Pedroncelli Sangiovese Alto Vineyards ($16). This nearly 90 year old winery was a pioneer of grape growing in Sonoma County’s Dry Creek Valley and is still family owned. Harkening to their Italian heritage this Tuscan-style wine offer dark cherry, forest, herb and light spice in a welcoming and easy drinking frame.

2010 Mulderbosch “Faithful Hound” ($18). This Bordeaux-style blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, petit verdot, cabernet franc, and malbec is soft but complex with forest and tobacco notes but also generous fruit assisted by stainless steel fermentation and barrel maturation. 

2011 Souverain Cabernet Sauvignon North Coast ($13). Souverain consistently produces some of California’s mostreliable wine values and this Cab (buttressed with dollops of four other grapes) is no exception. Fresh red fruits meld with cocoa for a juicy, satisfying drink.

 

 

2012 Caricature Cabernet Sauvignon ($17). Caricature is a fun label of lighthearted wines produced by LangeTwins Family Winery in the Lodi region east of the Bay Area. The area is known for producing flavorful grapes at low prices. Bright red cherry and red currant join cedar notes in a light and tangy drink.

 


2012 Gnarly Head Cabernet Sauvignon ($12). This is a label produced by the Indelicato Family, who has an over 80-year history of winegrowing in California. Committed to sustainable winegrowing in their Monterey and Lodi vineyards, they have produced a wine with fairly deep berry fruit that is soft but fresh and tangy with sweet fruit.

 

2011 Kendall-Jackson “Vintner’s Reserve” Summation ($17). Kendall-Jackson has grown over the last three decades into one of California’s largest wine producers but quality hasn’t suffered. The Vintner’s Reserve line still regularly offer good value. Summation is the red blend and this one is one-third syrah and one-third zinfandel, with dollops of at least five other grapes. Expect really nice black fruits with a whiff of smoke and a hint of wood wrapped in a smooth texture.

 

2011 Caricature Red Blend ($17). This blend is mostly cabernet sauvignon and zinfandel, which contributes vibrant cherry, prune and currant fruit while some oak aging imparts caramel notes. It all glides light and tangy over the palate, finishing refreshingly slightly bitter.

 

These red wines are delightfully crisp, fruity, and fragrant. And they are easy drinking and natural matches for the lighter foods of summer, as well as grilled and barbecued. For generally reasonable prices, these wines also provide a refreshing combination of acidity and in many cases moderate alcohol – perfect for warm weather. Enjoy!

 

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FRESH, FRAGRANT WHITES ARE PERFECT FOR WARM WEATHER

What I like most about spring and summer is the blossoming of aromas and how that signals the awakening of life after the slumber of winter.  And a cool, light, crisp, refreshing white wine is just the compliment for the warmer weather. Below are a variety of recommendations from my tastings over the past several months.

 

German Riesling. My favorite white wine any time of year is German Riesling. These wines typically are enticingly aromatic with bracing acidity and typically green apple, citrus and stone fruit flavors. Most intriguing, there often is a distinctive mineral component. It produces aromatic wines of high acid and, unusual for a white wine, potentially long life. The fragrant, flowery aromas lead into fresh green apple, pear and occasionally peach, apricot, pineapple, or mineral flavors are delivered with bracing acidity. The wines below provide some blanced sweetness.

  • 2012 Bischofliche “Ayler Kupp” Kabinett ($23) – a single vineyard wine from the Mosel is fresh, fruitful and satisfying, with just a hint of sweetness.
  • 2012 Friedrich-Wilhelm-Gymnasium “Graacher Himmelreich” Kabinett ($23) – similar to the Ayler but more pronounced apple.
  • 2012 Schloss Vollrads Spatlese ($31) – from a storied estate in the Rheingau, this one is sweeter but delightfully fresh with minerality.
  • 2012 “Fritz Willi” (by Friedrich Wilhelm Gymnasium, $12) – a good entry-level wine is another successful effort by a venerable winery to produce a wine labeled in a more consumer friendly manner. It is made from grapses sourced from the Graacher Himmelreich, Graacher Domprobst, Bernkasteler Badstube, Trittenheimer Apotheke and Falkensteiner Hofberg vineyards in the Mosel and Saar valleys.

 

Chenin Blanc. Native to the Loire Valley, Chenin Blanc also is a personal favorite and has found a few hospitable locales in California. There, it is usually produced in a fruity, slightly sweet style, though a few brave souls (like Dry Creek Vineyard) make a dry style inspired by the fine wines of the Loire Valley Savennieres. The 2013 Dry Creek Vineyard ($12) made with grapes from Clarksburg near Sacramento, is always a reliable choice. This stainless steel fermented wine is quite fragrant with peach, melon, apple and citrus.

South Africa also is quickly becoming a reliable source of good Chenin Blanc, as the 2011 Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc “Steen op Hout” ($14) demonstrates. Although this wine saw some time in barrel, it is fresh, fruity, and bright, with deep apple, pear and cashew in nose and zesty acidity and tropical fruit mouth.

 

California Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio. There may be no better summer wine than a crisp, refreshing Pinot Gris. Just in time for the warmer weather. Pinot Gris, the so-called “grey pinot,” also can be a fine choice this time of year. It reaches its epitome in Alsace and can be quite fine in Oregon but I found the 2013 MacMurray Estate Vineyards Russian River Valley Pinot Gris ($20), the first bottling under the winery’s new label, to have enticingly rich flavors of pear, baked apple, dried fig and white peach. It is fermented in stainless steel and one-quarter is aged on the lees.

Pinot Grigio, usually suggesting a lighter Italian style, is the best known type among Americans. At half the price, the 2013 Belle Ambiance California Pinot Grigio ($10) is typical of the style, as it tends to fresh citrus and melon carried in a brisk, yet easygoing frame.

 

Spain. Native grapes from Spain’s northwest region of Rías Baixas and the northern region of Rioja, which is better known for its red wines, make for light hearted, zesty summer sippers. The 2013 Cune “Monopole” Rioja ($15) is produced using local viura, the major white grape of the region, which, like its namesake macbeo in Penedes, is noted for its aromatics and acidity.

 

From Rías Baixas, the 2013 Terras Gauda “O Rosal” ($24) is a blend dominated by albariño (the most important white grape of that region), with additions of loureiro and caiño blanco (which had almost disappeared from the region but was recovered by Terras Gauda in the 1990s). all from the O Rosal Valley, this blend produces a wine with crisp and lively fresh citrus, orange and peach deepened with an earthy touch.

 

Italy. While Italy is justly famous for its red wines, there also is a plethora of interesting white wines. Much of that interest, as with Spain, comes from the indigenous grapes. Someday I need to write a whole article on Italy’s whites but for now here are a few nice ones from Italy’s northeast.

 

From the northeastern province Friuli near Venice, the 2012 Masi Masianco ($15) is a unique, enticing blend of mostly pinot grigio and some indigenous verduzzo produced using the traditional winemaking method of drying the grapes before fermentation (known as appassimento) to increase concentration and intensity. crisp citrus, honey Lemon, peach, dried apricot, honey, touch of spice, honey and cantaloupe melon

 

Prosecco, with its light, frothy flavors has achieved significant popularity in recent years. It comes from an unlikely area in the Veneto, in the hills just north of Venice and is made using the native glera grape. Affordable and eminently drinkable (typically lower alcohol), it is a versatile for many occasions. I recently enjoyed the Prosecco from La Marca ($17) from a 40-year-old cooperative representing 5,000 local winegrowers who farm more than 17,000 acres. Its clean, refreshing style and delicate, apple fruit are quite appealing. Another good option, the Piccini Prosecco ($16) also was very nice, with a profile of white flowers, white peaches, and pears.

 

Speaking of Italian bubbly, you may not be aware the “Metodo Classico” (the Champagne Method) bubbly made in the Franciacorta region in the foothills of the Alps not far from Lake Garda is some of the best sparkling wine in the world. Franciacorta also uses the traditional Champagne grapes pinot noir and chardonnay. The Berlucchi family gets credit for initiating the practice in the 1970’s. Their 2006 Berlucchi Franciacorta ‘61 Brut ($35) – 100% chardonnay and bottle aged five years – is crisp, elegant and refined. The ’61 refers to 1961 as the year the brand was founded.  With apple and pear fragrances and velvety texture, this wine displays lovely depth and a zesty acidity.

 

 

 

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IT’S A COGNAC! IT’S A SHERRY! IT’S A PORT! NO, IT’S A BEER!

A review of the latest (2013) Samuel Adams Utopias

The new 2013 release of Samuel Adams Utopias is the latest in a nearly thirty year journey of founder Jim Koch to redefine what beer can be. As with so much in the craft beer industry, Samuel Adams has been a pioneer of what has come
to be known as “Extreme Beer.”

Beginning with Triple Bock in 1994, Samuel Adams has been in the forefront of the movement to push the envelope of complexity and alcohol. Triple Bock came in at 17.5% alcohol by volume (ABV). In 2000, Samuel Adams released Millennium Ale at 21% ABV. Then came Utopias in 2002 at 25% ABV. Since then, a new edition of Utopias has been released roughly every two years. The 2013 edition clocks in at 28% ABV. That’s liqueur territory!

 

Certainly the craft beer world has continued to challenge convention about styles and variations on styles of beer. That includes ingredients, brewing methods and alcohol levels. But Sam Adams’ Utopias really challenges all conceptions of what beer can be.

 

It’s still brewed with hops and malts using traditional methods. Utopias begins with two-row Caramel and Munich malts and Hallertau Mittelfrueh, Spalt Spalter, and Tettnang Tettnanger hops. Several yeast strains (including one used for Champagne) are used in fermentation. And maple syrup is added. But that is where normalcy ends.

 

Added to the mix for the first time is the brewery’s wild ale, “Kosmic Mother Funk” (KMF), a Belgian-style wild ale barrel-aged nine months-to-two years in large Hungarian oak casks. A lot of craft beers these days are aged in wood barrels but Utopias takes this, yes, to extremes. It undergoes a blending process similar to wine, in this case combining batches aged in a variety barrels, including Port casks and Rum barrels from Nicaragua. The final blend includes some batches that have been aged up to twenty years in a variety of barrels. And this year a portion was aged in single use bourbon casks from Buffalo Trace Distillery.

 

So, how does all this taste? First, newcomers to the brew will be surprised to find it is not carbonated. Also unusual for beer, Samuel Adams recommends Utopias be sipped and savored at room temperature (basically the same as Cognac: about a two-ounce pour in a snifter).

 

It opens with aromas of caramel and maple followed by an explicitly briny sensation, like sea breeze. There are alcoholic notes reminiscent of Cognac accented with toffee. You might also notice vanilla and tobacco. It drinks smooth and viscous with layers of complexity. There also are tangy and berry fruit elements keeping the taste lively amidst the sweetness and a distinct alcoholic burn.

 

Naturally, Utopias is packaged in unique 24-ounce ceramic bottles fashioned to look like a traditional copper brew kettle. It is sealed with a basic crown cap but also a resealable screw cap. That combined with the high alcohol and lack of carbonation allow Utopias to be enjoyed over long period.

 

Here’s the one catch, though: that 24-ounce bottle retails at $200. This will prove an obstacle most will not be able to overcome. Heck, most of us would be unwilling to spend that much even on a great wine or Scotch. But, if you have the money or can get together with some friends on a bottle or even find it somewhere by the glass, it will be an experience I doubt you’ll regret.

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SPRING RELEASES TO WELCOME WARMER WEATHER

[Cover photo courtesy Oregon State University Extension Service]

 

Yes, it is finally getting warmer and breweries are happily releasing their spring seasonals. And we all are the better for it. Here a few I tasted recently you will enjoy alone or as an accompaniment for the lighter foods of the season.

 

Deschutes

Fresh Squeezed IPA. I really liked the debut release of this beer last summer and really enjoyed this year’s model as well.  So I’m glad it now will be available year-round in 6-packs. Like all of the beers in the Bond Street Series, this hop-centric brew was formerly exclusive to the brewery’s Bend and Portland Oregon brew pubs. Its juicy, spicy citrus aroma and flavor – thanks to loads of Citra, Mosaic and Nugget hops – presage a balancing malt profile from Pale, Crystal, and Munich malts. Its 6.4% ABV and 60 IBU drink smooth and refreshing.

 

Samuel Adams

 

Double Bock. A seasonal since 1988 – but a style that dates to the 13th century – this one is lager brewed with a half pound of malt per bottle. Tettnang, Tettnanger, and Hallertau Mittelfrueh hops join the Samuel Adams two-row pale malt blend and Caramel 60 malts to produce, yes, sweet caramel and toffee, but also coffee and even cherry notes, finishing with subtle hop character. 9.5% ABV and 25 IBUs

 

Escape Route. A new, limited release beer, Kölsch style (sort of an ale/lager hybrid originating in Cologne, Germany) is a delightful unfiltered, easy drinking (or what is typically called “sessionable”) beer with just 5.0% ABV and 30 IBUs. It uses Aramis and Strisselspalt hops, with Samuel Adams two-row pale malt blend, acidulated malt, flaked barley, and carafoam malts.

 

Oskar Blues

 

Gubna Imperial IPA. Volume 4 of this seasonal release is post-fermentation dry hopped with Sorachi Ace, Chinook and Mosaic hops to a level that Oscar Blues only describes as 100+ IBUs! The hops are augmented with Rye malt (double the amount of previous versions), North American Pale malt and a bit of Munich malt. All this really shows in its intensity of strong grapefruit piercing all the way through followed by spice notes. Lemon citrus and even hints of red berries add interest on the palate, as does the lively bitter finish.

 

 

Upslope Brewing (Flatiron Park Tap Room)

 

Upslope Brewing Company brewed its first batch of Pale Ale for public consumption in the fall of 2008. Since then, this creative brewery has established itself firmly in its home base of Boulder and throughout Colorado winning numerous medals and palates to its well made beers. I stopped by their Flatiron Park Tap Room the other day to do a little tasting and heartily recommend the following beers.

Wild Belgian Pale Ale. A collaboration with Crooked Stave Artisan Beer Project in Denver, this is the first installment of their new Ferus Fluxus (or “Wild Flow”) series. For this barrel-aged project, this limited release Belgian style pale ale – brewed with Trappist ale yeast and coriander – was inoculated with strains of Brettanomyces and Lactobacillus in first-use red wine barrels where it conditioned for nine months. 7.5%ABV and 30 IBU

 

Oatmeal Stout. This sessionable stout won a Bronze Medal at last year’s GABF Pro-Am Competition. It is easy drinking with a silky smooth mouth feel. The oatmeal rounds out the bolder chocolate, roasted malt and coffee flavors in this brew. 5% ABV

 

Sticke Altbier. A traditional German ale that has its roots in lager brewing.  Malty without being sweet, earthy mushroom note and a slight tangy finish. This is a good example of the style. 7.0% ABV

 

Craft Lager. Upslope’s largest selling beer also is distinguished by the commitment to donate one

percent of revenues from its sales to Trout Unlimited for its Rivers Campaign to protect watersheds throughout Colorado. It soffers light malt and citrus flavors that surprisingly linger. 4.8% 15 IBU

 

Brown Ale. Another GABF winner (silver medal in 2012), this classic brown ale is loaded with coffee and roasted qualities in nose and mouth but drinks firm and finishes with a nice bitter note. 6.7% 45 IBU

 

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FLAVORFUL BREWS TO CARRY YOU THROUGH THE REST OF WINTER

From porters to IPA’s, to stouts to lagers, there is no shortage of fermented malts and hops (and many brewed with various herbs, spices and other special ingredients) to satisfy your beer hungers over the coming months. Below I review ten seasonals to consider for your enjoyment.

 

Boulder Beer Company

“Shake” Chocolate Porter (5.9% ABV, 39 IBU)

 

Colorado’s first craft brewery established in 1979 Boulder Beer continues to churn out fine quality brews. “Shake” uses five different grains, including chocolate wheat, with cocoa nibs to achieve an excellent chocolate porter. Its nose is rich in chocolate and creamy with a hint of sweetness. Coffee notes emerge with time. It drinks with a similar profile, is full-bodied and deep but is lively as it glides over the tongue. Lucky for us, “Shake” has been added to full time list.

 

 

Breckenridge Brewery

Imperial Express (2013) “Hoppy Imperial Red Ale” (10% ABV, 70 IBU)

 

This beer is a collaboration with Never Summer Industries created to celebrate opening day of the ski season. Breckenridge Brewery and Never Summer Industries engaged in a joint project. Never Summer created an inaugural “Artist Series” snowboard. John Vogl, a Denver artist with a small studio called The Bungaloo, created the artwork, which is a drawing of an elk seemingly rising up from the mountains. For its part of the collaboration, Breckenridge crafted this limited release named after the highest chairlift at Breckenridge Ski Resort, reaching an elevation of 12,840 feet. The hops show in the citrus and spice notes jumping out of the glass. This assertive character continues in the mouth and is completed with a peppery finish. The draft-only beer will be available throughout Colorado while supplies last.

 

Ska Brewing Co.

Hibernal Vinifera Stout (8% ABV, 53 IBU)

 

I was really intrigued by the idea of using wine (actually wine grape juice) in a brew. But, frankly, I was skeptical. Hibernal Vinifera Stout is the second beer in the Durango based brewery’s “Seasonal Stout” series. It is oak aged and brewed with malbec grape juice. All this contributes to a flavor profile that shows creamy malt, fresh green herb, and lemongrass aromas followed by a very intense palate, with a resiny quality and hints of tannin and pleasant bitterness. This beer/wine experiment definitely is successful. And the creative packaging for the Hibernal Vinifera Stout features Ska’s True Blonde character as the Sumerian goddess of grapes and the cold season, Ngeshtin-ana.

 

Deschutes Brewery

Red Chair NWPA Northwest Pale Ale (6.2% ABV, IBUs 60)

 

Over the last few years, Deschutes’ Red Chair (named for the oldest operating ski lift lift at Mt. Bachelor) has become a favorite of mine. Whenever I’m looking at a beer list and can’t decide what I want, if “Red Chair” is on the list, I always know I can count on it to satisfy. The beer basically is Dechutes’ attempt to produce a balanced beer drinking experience – malty but not too and hoppy but not too. Deschutes says they have taken the IPA style and rounded out the edges. And mostly they are correct.  In this year’s model, I pick up a malty entry followed by hoppy notes. In the mouth, the play reverses.  The hops open up and the malts follow. It all finishes clean with a citrusy finish.

 

Samuel Adams

 

I am constantly amazed at the variety and depth of Sam Adams production. And even more impressed with the consistently high quality. With so many choices, no one is going to like every release but there is no question they all are well made and most are just plain good. It’s no different with this group. You may not find every one to your liking but you I bet  they all will find their fans.

 

Winter Lager (5.6% ABV, 22 IBUs)

Heavy on the malt, light on the hops, this has a much darker color than I expected from a lager (but then the company’s press material describes it as a wheat bock). Brewed with orange peel, ginger, and cinnamon, the nose is malty with spicy herb notes. The palate follows a creamy head with tangerine, spicy herb, malty notes, and a slightly bitter finish.

 

Cherry Chocolate Bock (5.8% ABV, 11 IBUs)

With this special seasonal release, it’s the cocoa nibs and cherries that play a starring role. The beer opens with dramatic cherry followed by the expected chocolate notes all accompanied by hints of vanilla sweetness. It drinks to a similar flavor similar profile but shows more tart cherry and rounds out with rich chocolate.

 

Juniper IPA (5.8% ABV, 50 IBUs)

 

Another special release, the name pretty much says it all: aromas show nice spicy and forest notes (gotta be the juniper berries) and citrus. The flavor is similar with a refreshing finish.

 

“Merrymaker” Gingerbread Stout (9.0% ABV, 25 IBUs)

 

Cinnamon, clove, nutmeg and ginger generate intense aromas that compliment the roasted stout character, while it all is lifted with a citrusy close. For me, the mouth shows more of the roasted and coffee notes while the spices recede to the background and are welcome with a cherry-like finish.

 

Cold Snap (5.3% ABV, 7 IBUs)

Here’s where I ran in to a hurdle, two actually. I have never been much for Belgian or (Belgian-style) white ales but, regardless, I tend to think they are much better on a warm spring day. Cold Snap, though, created more interest as it is brewed not just with wheat but Grains of Paradise, anise, hibiscus, orange peel, coriander, and dried plums. I picked up notes of citrus, clove, and found it drank dry and crisp. Guess what? It actually would be great on a warm spring day!

 

Rebel IPA (6.5% ABV, 45 IBUs)

 

And now back to more hops. Rebel IPA celebrates founder Jim Koch’s and Samuel Adams’ revolutionary (beer) spirit. According to the brewery, Rebel is the first IPA brewed with all-American hops. But it is not an overpoweringly hoppy beer, unlike many these days. I sniffed a pleasant citrus opening followed with some spice and pine notes, then hints of malt nicely wrapping up. It drinks nicely fresh and dry with tangy grapefruit.

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A CORNUCOPIA OF INTERNATIONAL WINES FOR YOUR HOLIDAY GATHERINGS, PART 4

Red Wines

 

In keeping with my usual imperative to broaden my wine horizons and to look for interesting wines from all over the world, especially during the holidays, I present a wide variety of red wine selections for this fourth and final installment of my special holiday recommendations series. By the way, if you are interested in Pinot Noir or Zinfandel, I recently reviewed several samples of these wines here and here.

 

Australia Rhone-style. I recently came across these four excellent Aussies and even though I plan a comprehensive review of Australian wines in the coming months, I decided I couldn’t wait to turn you to them.

 

2011 Yangarra Grenache McLaren Vale Old Vine ($32). Grenache is the main grape in Chateauneuf-du-Pape and even though the terroir is different, the varietal red cherry and raspberry fruit laden with black pepper spice comes through nicely, as does intriguing earthy notes delivered with a lush texture.

 

2010 Yangarra Shiraz McLaren Vale ($25). Known as Syrah most everywhere else, Australian Shiraz has made a big splash in international markets over the last couple decades; so much so that too much average stuff has flooded stores. Thankfully there still are ample supplies of the greatness this grape can achieve in Australia – like this one. It is quite aromatic with dark berry fruit seasoned with meaty and cocoa accents. In the mouth it is flavorful, rich and lively, with a balance of tannin and fruit to age gracefully.

 

 

2010 Two Hands “Gnarly Dudes” Shiraz Barossa Valley ($35). This is nearly as good as the Yangarra, with floral aromas, dark berries and sort of a smoky note. It is another big, rich wine but with sleek tannins and a fresh finish. Earthy spicy notes provide additional interest throughout.

 

2009 Torbreck “The Steading” Barossa Valley ($38). A classic “GSM” – grenache syrah and mourvedre (also sometimes, as in this case, called mataro) – this one is heavy on the grenache to great effect. Lots of red fruits and brown spices excite the opening then join with a rich, flavorful and firm palate that finishes with plenty of friendly tannins.

 

Blends. A winery’s multi-varietal red blend can be a fun alternative for any occasion. Instead of just the character of one variety, these give you a chance to experience the how different aromas and flavors can come together to make a whole that is better than the sum of its parts.

 

2010 Craggy Range “Te Kahu” Gimblett Gravels Vineyard ($22). This merlot dominated Bordeaux-style blend from the Hawkes Bay region of New Zealand just blew me away, especially at the price and given its origins. Deeply fruited with all sorts of plum, cherry and berry aromas and flavors, merged with mineral and spice qualities. Solid structure and medium body, while smooth tannins liven the engaging finish.

 

 

Troublemaker Blend 7 ($20). This is a fun, big fruited blend of syrah, grenache, mourvedre, zinfandel, and petite sirah from Austin Hope, one of the leading producers in Paso Robles. Notes of tobacco, vanilla and meat add further interest to this versatile wine, good for quaffing and comfortable at the table.

 

I also came across a few really friendly priced blends you will find ideal for cocktail parties, as well as large dinners, or even everyday sipping. I’m not talking huge complexity here, or even huge wines for that matter, just tasty, easy drinking enjoyment.

 

  • 2012 HandCraft “Inspiration Red” California ($13) – an eclectic, fruit forward blend of syrah, zinfandel, merlot, malbec & sangiovese

 

  • 2012 Smoking Loon “Red Loonatic” ($8) – syrah, alicante bouschet, petite sirah, zinfandel, tannat, sangiovese, touriga nacional, tempranillo, pinot noir…wow!

 

  • Spin the Bottle Red Wine ($11) – cabernet sauvignon, syrah and merlot make good companions

 

Miscellaneous Reds

 

2011 Ventisquero “Grey” Carmenere Single Block ($24). Ventisquero’s “Grey” line features all individual blocks from specific vineyards. This Carmenere hails from Block 5 of the Trinidad Vineyard in the Maipo Valley. Loads of black fruits, an earthy note and a touch of creamy oak flow through its aromas and flavors.

 

2009 Pertinace Nebbiolo ($18). It’s been fashionable for years now among wine critics to treat wine coops with disrespect. The conceit is usually that a collective of growers inevitably succumbs to the lowest common denominator, while individual producers are the only ones truly dedicated to excellence. Well, Cantina Pertinace, a cooperative of of twelve winegrowers in the region of Barbaresco, clearly proves this wrong. They produce an enviable line of Barolo, Barbaresco, Babera, Arneis and this enjoyable Nebiolo. Try this taste of the region for less than half the cost of Barolo.

 

2011 Alamos Malbec ($13). Alamos is the result of a collaboration between the great Catena family of Argentina and the great Gallo family of California. Dabs of syrah and bonarda enliven the malbec grown in the higher elevations of Mendoza. The result is

soft and fruity, easy drinking and a great value.

 

2010 Matchbook Tempranillo Dunnigan Hills ($15). Tempranillo, the grape responsible for most of Spain’s finest wines, has always been a challenge to grow successfully in California. But Matchbook seems to have figured out how to make an enjoyable, affordable wine out of it, with touches of tannat and graciano. Aged almost in a combination of American, French and Hungarian oak, this wine exhibits brown spice and cedar to compliment black and red fruits.

 

2011 Stickybeak Toscano IGT ($20). A surprising new collaboration between Australian wine importer Old Bridge Cellars and Italian vintner Alberto Antonini, this wine is a flavorful Sangiovese (with a touch of merlot and, from nearby Maremma, a bit of syrah) from the Tuscan commune of Cerreto Guidi.

 

2011 J. Lohr Estates Valdiguié Monterey ($10). This is a fun wine from a grape primarily grown in the Languedoc-Roussillon. It’s cultivated sparsely in California but J. Lohr has fashioned a grapey, interesting wine using partial carbonic maceration that simulates the drinking experience of a Beaujolais or maybe a light Pinot Noir.

 

2012 Monte Velho Red ($10). This time of year, I’m especially fond of Portuguese table wine. While Portugal is most famous for its great sweet Porto, table wine from the country has become a go-to choice for good values with authentic character.

Portuguese producer Heredade do Esporao has fashioned this excellent value from equal amounts of the indigenous grapes trincadeira, aragonez and castelao.  It’s pretty straightforward but is solid and firm, with tasty fruit.

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A CORNUCOPIA OF INTERNATIONAL WINES FOR YOUR HOLIDAY GATHERINGS, PART 3

White Wines

 

This time of year – truthfully all year long – I like to try a wide variety of wines. Certainly Chardonnay remains the most popular wine among consumers. And if you are looking for ideas for the holidays, I previously reviewed a large number of Chardonnays here.

For our purposes in this column, the focus is mostly on the so-called “aromatic whites” – Riesling, Pinot Grigio, and Sauvignon Blanc – along with a mélange of international varieties. Most of the delightful wines in this column are crisp, fruity, and fragrant. For generally reasonable prices, these wines also provide a refreshing combination of acidity and in many cases moderate alcohol – perfect for parties and the variety of foods available during the holidays.

 

Riesling. My favorite white wine, a good Riesling is enticingly aromatic with bracing acidity and typically green apple, citrus and stone fruit flavors. Most intriguing, there often is a distinctive mineral component. The wines below provide at least some sweetness, unless otherwise indicated.

 

2012 Thomas Schmitt Private Collection Spatlese ($16). Nice green apple with hints of steel and stone. Light and soft and pretty with a good balance of sweetness and acidity.

 

2012 Thomas Schmitt Private Collection Kabinet ($14). Similar to the Spatlese but lighter and less sweet; nice sipper and versatile.

 

2012 Beast “Sphinx” Wallula Vineyard Columbia Valley ($25). From the U.S., I especially enjoy Washington State Riesling these days. This one, made with grapes from a biodynamically farmed vineyard, is aromatic, flavorful and dry – and excellent.

 

2010 Brooks “Ara” Willamette Valley ($25). Another very dry wine, the Ara is nicely citrusy and sports bracing acidity.

 

Other good options:

 

  • 2012 J.Lohr Estates Bay Mist White Riesling ($10)
  • 2012 Martin & Weyrich “Allegro” Riesling ($12)
  • 2012 Fess Parker Riesling Santa Barbara County ($14)
  • 2012 Kendall-Jackson “Vintner’s Reserve” Riesling Monterey County ($13)
  • 2011 Woodbridge (by Robert Mondavi) Riesling ($8)

 

Pinot Gris/Grigio. Pinot Gris, the so-called “grey pinot,” reaches its epitome in Alsace and can be quite fine in Oregon but I found the 2011 La Crema Pinot Gris Monterey County ($20) to be impressive in its own right. Citrus, lime and honeydew present with a body of some weight and richness of texture.

 

Pinot Grigio, usually indicating the lighter Italian style, is best known among Americans. Typically, it tends to fresh citrus and melon carried in a brisk, yet easygoing frame. The following wines, listed in order of preference, all are worth trying:

 

  • 2012 Franz Keller Schwarzer Adler ($25)
  • 2011 Francis Coppola “Diamond Collection” ($16)
  • 2012 Oak Grove California ($8)
  • 2012 Pepi California ($10)
  • 2012 McManis California ($10)
  • 2011 Murphy-Goode California ($13)
  • NV Camelot California ($7)

 

Sauvignon Blanc. The brisk acidity, zesty white and green fruits (often grapefruit or gooseberry) and distinctive herbaceousness of Sauvignon Blanc enable this wine to pair with multiple foods. The 2012 Matua Valley Estate Series Paretai Marlborough ($17) was my favorite of this group for its green apple, grapefruit, citrus, and strong green herb notes. It is fairly full and nicely concentrated, yet balanced. The following also are enjoyable:

 

  • 2013 Matua Valley Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough ($12)
  • 2012 Pepi California ($10)
  • 2012 Tin Roof California ($10)
  • 2012 Oak Grove California ($8)

 

Pinot Blanc. A wine that often is mistaken for Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc shows its own charms, as with these two. The 2012 Franz Keller Schwarzer Adler ($25) reveals nice stone fruits and intriguing “wet rocks” minerality. The 2010 Brooks “Runaway White” ($15), a blend of two Oregon vineyards, has nice apple and citrus in a juicy and lively frame.

 

Blends. A winery’s multi-varietal blend also can be a fun alternative. Instead of just the character of one variety, these give you a chance to experience the how different aromas and flavors can come together to make a whole that is better than the sum of its parts. Two eminently affordable examples of this include the 2012 HandCraft “Inspiration White” ($13). This is a vibrant, aromatic blend of riesling, sauvignon blanc, viognier, moscato and pinot grigio. Even more affordable is the 2012 Smoking Loon “White Loonatic” ($8), a fruit-forward, approachable blend of viognier, chardonnay, muscat, and symphony.

 

Spain. The Rueda region in north central Spain not far from the great Ribera del Duero region has long been considered the source of Spain’s favorite white wines. Verdejo, the indigenous varietal of the region, produces wines with a nice balance of minerality and acidity. The crisp Verdejo wines of Rueda carry a hint of herbs with notes tropical and stone fruit. The 2012 Oro de Castilla Verdejo ($12) emphasizes tight citrus, lime and steely notes, while the 2012 12 Linajes Verdejo ($12) shows similar citrus but also apple, fennel and savory notes.

 

Viognier. One of three esteemed white Rhone varietals – along with Roussanne and Marsanne – Viognier can offer the richness of Chardonnay with exotic, tropical fruits. This is typically a pretty expensive wine but the 2012 McManis ($11) and 2012 Oak Grove ($8) both offer a sense of that experience for very affordable prices.

 

Other Whites. I don’t want to close without turning you on to a few fine southern European whites to add some variety to your holiday palates.

 

  • 2012 Rocca Sveva Soave Classico ($17), citrus – oranges and lemons – and stone fruit in a light but pleasing sweet/tart drink
  • 2012 Monte Velho White Alentejano ($10), this light blend of native roupeiro, antao vaz, and perrum varieties reminds me of fruit salad with touches of caramel and butterscotch
  • NV Memoro Vino Bianco D’italia ($10), intriguing blend of French and Italian grapes  – viognier, chardonnay, vermentino, and pecorino – fun for sipping
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A CORNUCOPIA OF INTERNATIONAL WINES FOR YOUR HOLIDAY GATHERINGS, PART 2

Sweet Wines

 

I love Porto, period. Yes, it’s sweet, often very sweet. And it’s red! And this time of year I just can’t resist it. There are a variety of styles, so it can be confusing trying to decide which to buy. A good place to start is with a Ruby Port, the youngest and most accessible Port. Aged three years in large vats to retain freshness, expect straightforward, grapey fruit. Fonseca Bin No. 27 ($21) – quite intense with lively red fruits and good structure – is a fine representative of the type.


Late Bottled Vintage Port is made from good wines of a single year that didn’t quite make the cut for Vintage Port. But, after aging four to six years, it is ready to drink upon release and offers a sense of why Vintage Porto is so prized by connoisseurs. The 2007 Taylor Fladgate Late Bottled Vintage Porto ($22) is notable for its full body and blackberry fruit balanced with good acidity and soft tannins.


Tawny Port is known less for power and concentration than for complexity, purity of fruit and finesse. Tawnies are blended wines and the best indicate an average age. Expect admirable balance, elegance and complexity. The Taylor Fladgate 10 Year Old Tawny Porto ($35) presents pure vibrant fruit, hints of almonds, and fine balance.

 

There also are some interesting Port-style wines being produced in California. One I enjoyed recently is the 2008 Pedroncelli Four Grapes Port ($20). While many California producers make their Port-style wine using zinfandel, this wine uses the traditional Portuguese grapes Tinta Madera, Tinta Cao, Souzao, and Touriga Nacional. A little on the rustic side, it nicely conjures the character of a Ruby Port.

 

I also am aware many people this time of year host large holiday parties and, in an effort to offer a variety of wine drinking options to appeal to all their guests, look for sweet accessible wines for uncritical drinking. Here’s where wines like those from Sequin ($12) come in handy. Sweet and “delicately bubbled,” these wines can be sipped on their own or serve as a base for wine cocktails. There is a Rose, Pinot Grigio and Moscato.

 

Speaking of Moscato, if you like the sweet but not the bubbles, Smoking Loon’s 2012 “Blue Loon” Moscato ($8) might be right for you. It’s soft, fruity but not cloying with nice aromas and flavors reminiscent of fruit salad.

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NEW BREWS FOR THE HOLIDAY SEASON

Three breweries. Ten beers. Tons of fla,vor. Breweries everywhere are coming out with their seasonal and holiday brews to warm your cockles (look it up). Below is just a fraction of what’s available but each is guaranteed to please. Happy holidays!

 

Samuel Adams

 

 

Ruby Mild. The company says this limited release is inspired by the English mild ales popular in the 1800s. Its ruby color and prominent malty aroma comes from seven malts, including traditional English malts like Marris Otter and its light citrusy notes are attributable to East Kent Golding hops. There also are intriguing clove and brown butter elements in the nose. This pleasant easy drinking brew (5.6 ABV, 20 IBU) sports a light sour cherry flavor, with malty and chalky notes, finishing with a nice hoppy lift. An ideal accompaniment to holiday meals.

 

 

 

Fat Jack Double Pumpkin Ale. With more than 28 pounds of pumpkin per barrel, accented with more of those East Kent Golding hops and malts including rye Special B and smoked malt, this selection from the Small Batch catalogue actually does show classic pumpkin pie spices like cinnamon, nutmeg and allspice. In the mouth, roasted and smoked malts deliver hints of molasses and caramel and pretty high alcohol (8.5 ABV 25 IBU) but still with a smooth mouth feel. Obviously perfect for Thanksgiving.

 

 

Tetravis. A new addition to the Barrel Room Collection, Tetravis is modeled after a Belgian-style Quadrupel – blended, aged, and cask conditioned. While brewed with low bitterness Hallertau Mittelfrueh noble hops and Special B, Carafa 1, and Munich malts, it gets its unique character from blending in a special Belgian-style sour ale they call “Kosmic Mother Funk” that is a blend of Brettanomyces yeast and bacteria aged in Hungarian barrels for a year (and is blended into each Barrel Room Collection beer in varying levels). This one also is bottle conditioned with Champagne yeast. All this results in a heady brew that variously exhibits fruitcake, plum, currant, caramel, sour cherry, earth, molasses, raisin, fig, clove, and spice! With all this complexity and high alcohol (10.2 ABV, 18 IBU), this one is best with dessert or by itself after dinner.

 

Deschutes


Hop Trip Fresh Hop Pale Ale. “Fresh hop” means the Deschutes team brings just harvested hops from the fields of nearby Salem to the brewery in Bend within four hours of picking. Those include Salmon Safe Nugget, Centennial, and Fresh Crystal hops that are balanced with NW Pale, Extra Special, Cara-Munich, and Carapils malts. Refreshing citrus, pine and resin notes meld with grapefruit, spice, caramel, and tropical notes. Even at a friendly 5.3 ABV and 38 IBU, it delivers solid, mouthfilling, citrusy and spicy flavors nicely balanced with malty character.

 

 

Jubelale. A festive winter warmer ale, Jubelale, now in its 26th year, actually is the first brew ever bottled by Deschutes. With six types of hops and five types of malts, I found this impressively flavorful and complex. It opened with roasted coffee and chestnut (or was it chicory?) aromas that carried into the mouth. That palate carried its 6.7 ABV well and showed excellent depth, offering mocha and malt character, with a sharp hoppy (70 IBU) lift in the finish.

 

 

Chasin’ Freshies Fresh Hop IPA. Another fresh hop beer, this one comes from the Bond Street Series (their seasonal special release program). In contrast to Hop Trip, it is made with newly harvested Bravo and Amarillo hops (note: last year’s version emphasized Cascade hops) and at 65 IBU, nearly three-fourths more IBU. These are complimented with Pilsner Malt and Flaked Oats
. And it sure is fresh. There is a lot of grapefruit, fairly high alcohol (7.2 ABV), but also an earthy note and an intriguing suggestion of green grass.

 

The next two beers, like Jubelale, are best suited with dessert or after dinner. They also are capable of aging for up to a year.

 

Black Butte Porter XXV. This 25th Birthday Reserve of Deschutes’ flagship  beer uses cocoa nibs and roasted coffee from local producers. A final aging in whiskey casks imparts intensity and complexity. This well structured drink has so much going on I picked up layers of chocolate, coffee, anise and dried fruit – fig, currant, berry, plum, cherry, and date. And it packs quite a punch with 11.3 ABV and 65 IBU.

 

 

 

Abyss 2013 Reserve Imperial Stout. The eighth vintage of this extreme stout is a powerhouse – note its 11.0 ABV and 70 IBU. It is made with licorice and blackstrap molasses, vanilla bean and cherry bark all aged in bourbon, pinot noir and Oregon oak barrels. What you get out of all this is a concoction that offers hints of molasses, licorice, chocolate, and caramel in a frame of great depth and complexity.

 

 

Oskar Blues

 

Old Chub. A really fascinating Scottish strong ale, its generous amounts of malted barley and specialty grains, with a dash of beechwood-smoked malt result in a full flavored brew – also evidenced by it 8% ABV and 60 IBU. Earthy aromas of mocha, date, caramel, and toasty brown sugar are followed by flavors of roasted grains, sweet malt, caramel raisin, cocoa, blueberry, mocha, and spice. Whew!

 

 

Ten Fidy Imperial Stout. And then there is this, an impressive stout, large scaled in every way (10.5 ABV 98 IBU). It is strong and full and complex but not heavy. Start with an opening blast of resin, molasses, roasted barley, oat, chocolate, caramel, and coffee balanced with strong hoppy character. In the mouth there is more of the same but you will immediately notice a roasted malt flavor (likely from the two-row malt and chocolate malt) finishing with a nice bitter note that actually seems understated given its high IBU.

 

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RIDGE LYTTON SPRINGS, THE EPITOME OF ZINFANDEL

FROM MY CELLAR:

 

Zinfandel is a curiously underappreciated variety. Forty years after its renaissance I still find myself having to explain to family, friends and acquaintances what it is, let alone just how great it can be. Even among my wine loving associates I am one of the few to list it among my favorite varieties.

 

So, I have made it part of my mission as a wine writer to sing its praises and have done so for all of the twenty years I have been writing about wine. I recently tasted more examples of what the grape can produce in California. I have a post on the website reviewing some impressive Zinfandel wines I tasted recently. In this post, I turn you on to the pleasures of the 2004 Ridge Vineyards “Lytton Springs” ($33 upon release in 2006).

 

It is worth noting that although the wine is 79% Zinfandel, 18% Petite Sirah, and 3% Carignane, the label focuses the vineyard. This is a common practice at Ridge, as CEO/Winemaker Paul Draper (who has been at Ridge over fifty years and is recognized as one of the world’s great winemakers) is known for his emphasis on site-specific wines. And Lytton Springs is not just a great zinfandel vineyard; it has been identified as one of the great vineyards in the world. We shouldn’t be surprised it is located in the Dry Creek Valley, which is well known as one of the most hospitable places to grow zinfandel.

Lytton Springs lies just north and west of Healdsburg on benchland and rolling hills. It benefits from foggy mornings followed by by warm, sunny afternoons and cool evenings. This and the not particularly fertile gravelly clay soils ensure that the grapes ripen slowly and achieve a balance that often proves elusive in other zinfandel vineyards.

 

Ridge had purchased Lytton Springs grapes beginning in 1972; then over the years took opportunities to buy various blocks until by 1995 they owned the complete estate including the winery. Sustainable and organic practices are followed in the vineyard and the winery. For instance, the new winery emphasizes energy conservation, solar energy, and environmentally sustainable construction materials.

 

In the vineyard, Lytton Springs supports 100 plus-year-old zinfandel vines planted in a “field blend” with petite sirah, carignane, mataro (also known as mourvèdre), and grenache. Draper’s and Ridge Vice President of Winemaking-Lytton Springs John Olney’s respect for the site is evident in the sustainable farming practices and moving it toward organic certification. This respect also means they maintain the field blend and focus on harvesting the grapes at optimal ripeness (too many wineries today harvest overripe grapes) to achieve wines that balance fruit and soil characteristics with manageable tannins and alcohol. Although Zinfandel can reach extremely high alcohol, this 2004 wine came in at an elevated but reasonable 14.5%.

 

The 2004 Lytton Springs is a beacon of what the zinfandel grape can achieve when grown in the right place and crafted by the right hands. Each variety and each lot were fermented separately with the natural yeast and the wine was allowed to undergo natural malolactic fermentation. After light egg white fining, it was aged on the lees and spent thirteen months in air-dried American oak.

Even at nine years of age the wine was still fresh and vibrant when I tasted it. Its aromas opened with pure brambly blackberry, accented with caramelized wood notes and hints of stone, and finished with a whiff of black pepper. Its beautiful, sweet tasting fruit was delivered in an excellently firm structure and a seamless texture that allowed the wine to slide deftly across my palate. The wine finished full and rich, with still some tannin. It easily could have kept for a few more years. After time in the glass, hints of black licorice emerged in the nose and especially the mouth.

 

I have been drinking Lytton Springs since the 1970’s (and every vintage since 1990) and the great balance of varietal fruit and terroir this 2004 delivered in an elegant, yet concentrated wine makes this one of my favorite Lytton Springs.