Fritz Groebe had that look in his eyes, a look of passion and dedication born of family and tradition, a tradition of family viticulture originating in the Rheinhessen 250 years ago. Mr. Groebe took over responsibility for winemaking at the family estate in Westhofen from his father in 1988. In the ensuing years, Fritz has committed to traditional methods, including organic cultivation.
four day visit to Germany’s Rhenhessen, Mosel and Nahe. I would say Mr. Groebe was the most traditionalist of all the growers we met. His wines are fermented in old wooden casks. And no screw caps here, he only uses cork (sustainably grown, of course) because it has a smaller carbon footprint. But others we met talked about using “integrated” approaches in the vineyard (spraying sulfur instead of pesticides, using compost instead of fertilizer). They may cut fruit to reduce yields and rely on the naturally occurring wild yeast to ferment the wine, yet use stainless steel tanks for fermentation.In the Rheinhessen, the flatter, rolling landscape is more conducive to organic practices. Many said they’re organic, though some admitted they weren’t certified. Actually, everyone we talked to professed to practice some level of sustainable agriculture. 
If the family business is to continue in the family, the younger generation must be prepared to take the reins as the older generation moves on. Another experience with this was when we met with three young Rheinhessen winemakers, part of a group called “Message in a Bottle” – Jochen Dreissigacker, whose family’s vineyards surround the village of Bechtheim and date to 1728; Johannes Becker (of Becker Landgraf in Felsenkeller), whose winery continues the tradition of two winemaking families from the 18th century; and Stefan Winter in Dittelsheim. Mostly in their twenties and thirties, they have moved confidently to modernize the quality of their families’ wines, while still respecting tradition.
Over in the Mosel, where winemaking dates to the Roman occupation 2000 years ago, I was surprised at first when we were told organic farming is “not possible.” It turns out, with the ridiculously steep slopes of most vineyards and the high natural humidity (promoting fungus), it’s just too difficult or too expensive. Still, everyone we talked to professed sustainability concerns saying, “we work close to the land.”
We spent two days visiting growers who produce wine from many of the valleys best vineyards. Our first stop was Dr. Loosen in Bernkastel. Ernst Loosen has run the family estate, which is about 200 years old, since 1988. Ernst was unable to host us for our tasting and dinner that night but his presence was certainly was felt in the wines. And there is quite an array of wines, as Dr. Loosen arguably is the most recognizable name in premium German Riesling in the U.S.
C.H. Berres, based in the village of Urzig, is much less well known in the U.S. but the wines are well worth seeking out. Markus Berres, who took over winemaking in 2006, is the 21st generation of the family business dating to 1510! Markus has modernized all facets of the operation, including closing all wines in screw caps.
For the Haag family in nearby Brauneberg, the tradition goes back to 1605. Oliver Haag now cultivates prime real estate on the village’s famed mountainside vineyards. The wines are sold under the “Fritz Haag” label.
One night we shared a tasting and dinner with four growers, all members of the “Bernkastel Ring” organization. Andreas Schmitges hosted us at his winery in Erden. Andreas took over the winery in 1990, continuing a tradition that goes back to 1744. We were joined by three others – Bernhard Werner, who has managed the family estate, which dates to 1650, from Leiwen since 1987; Stephan Pauly, whose family winery (Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler) is based in Wehlen and also dates to 1650; and Ernst Clusserath, who with his wife operates a small but important estate based in Trittenheim.
We finished our trip in the Nahe, maybe the least familiar premium German wine region to American consumers. This is really unfortunate. By comparison to the Mosel and the Rheinhessen, the small Nahe seems secluded, even hidden. Yet, its higher elevation, Nahe River, steep slopes, and varied slate, sedimentary, and volcanic soils yield some of Germany’s most distinctive and dramatic wines.
Again, we found the themes of family tradition and working close to the land. Jakob Schneider’s family has been in the wine trading business since 1575. After taking over winemaking responsibilities, he has really elevated the production of the family’s prime holdings around the villages of Niederhaus and Oberhaus.
Just a short way down the road in Oberhausen,
the Donnhoff estate is in the process of transition
from father Helmut to son Cornelius. The family’s
ancestors came to the area in 1750 to work in the
copper mines. Now, Donnhoff wines are prized
the world over.
In Munster-Sarmsheim, Kruger-Rumpf is another family affair. Georg has assumed responsibility for winemaking, while his father consults and his mother runs the restaurant fronting the property. If you ever get a chance to go to the Nahe, make sure to stop by the restaurant. in the meantime, enjoy the wines here.
Finally, did you know Germany is the world’s largest consumer of sparkling wine? I surely didn’t and never gave it much thought either beyond considering it a pleasant curiosity. That stat came from Volker Raumland, who produces what many consider Germany’s best “sekt.” And which I will assert to be as good as many Champagne.
With that exception, almost all of the wines I tasted with these growers were from one grape, Riesling. If you think that would have gotten boring, not with this noble grape and not with wines from such dedicated talented growers. I suggest you take your own trip to your favorite wine shop or restaurant seek out the wineries mentioned here.
Of course, there wouldn’t be anything to write about without the amazing vineyards. And each grower showed a certain pride, even reverence for their vineyards. We especially heard a lot about slate – the layered, metamorphic rock of sedimentary, clay and sometimes volcanic origins notable for high mineral and crystalline content. These slate soils are prized for their ability to hold moisture and heat and to impart a distinctive sense of those minerals in the resulting wine.
Next, it was off to Jimmy’s restaurant for a casual dinner hosted by Ferrer Wine Estates and featuringsome of their fine sparklers. While visiting with Eva Bertran, Executive Vice President at Freixenet USA, I enjoyed the Segura Viudas Reserva Heredad ($20) and Freixenet ElyssiaPinotNoir Brut from their extensive line of Cava. I also enjoyed talking and and tasting with Gloria Ferrer (the family’s California winery) winemaker Bob Iantosca. His limited release 2005 Anniversary Cuvee ($45) was especially complex and flavorful.
chef Jose Andres. Besidesgreat food, the event featured too many Spanish wines to taste them all or even keep tasting notes but I was impressed enough with the 2006 Bodegas Muga Reserva Seleccion ($40) to write it down in my notesand recommend it here. And that was just the first night! Friday night upped the ante.
At a reception hosted by importer Wilson Daniels, the array of fine winesfrom their international portfolio was truly impressive. I felt like a kid in a candy store, as there were numerous wines that impacted me, from white Burgundy (Leflaive 2008 Pulighy-Montrachet, Laroche 2009 Reserve de l’Obedience Chablis Grand Cru and 2009 Petite Chablis) and Rhone Valley whites (Tardieu Laurent 2007 Hermitage, 2009 Condrieu and 2007 Chateauneuf-du-Pape) to Barbaresco (2005 Ceretto Bricco Asili), Tokaji Aszu (1999 Royal Tokaji 6 Puttanyos), and California Cabernet Sauvignion (2008 Lancaster Estate). Whew!
delectables with fine wines from Portuguese winery Esporao. My favorite at thistasting was the 2009 Esporao Reserva ($20), an enticing blend of indigenous and international varieties.
USA.This tasting featured just one wine, and an Argentinean wine at that: the 2007 Cheval des Andes ($80). This wine, a joint venture between Terrazas de Los Andes and Chateau Cheval Blanc, blends cabernet sauvignon, malbec and petite verdot into a wine that rivals the best of Bordeaux. It was so special it seemed perfectly appropriate that it was the only one at the tasting.
Then it was to the reprise of the Kobrand happy hour. And what a treat it was to have a chance to taste many of the great Lousi Jadot Burgundies, wines even wine writers seldom get to taste. Just look at this line up! 1978 Chevalier Montrachet les Demoiselles1978 Bonnes Mares 1985 Gevrey Chambertin Clos St. Jacques 1986 Batard Montrachet 1989 Vosne Romanee Suchots 1990 Chambertin Clos de Beze 1991 Corton Charlemagne 1996 Beaune Greves 1996 Corton Pougets 1999 Meursault Genevrieres.
