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RESTORED UNION STATION SET TO BECOME DENVER’S PREMIER COMMUNITY AND TOURISM GENERATOR

Photo Credit: Sarah Welch

New York has Grand Central Terminal; Washington, D.C. has Union Station. Now, with a massive, just completed restoration and redevelopment, Denver’s historic Union Station is poised to become a similar an economic catalyst and community focal point for the Mile High City. With a focus on preserving the historically significant features of the 1914 Beaux-Arts building, it has now returned to its origins as a multimodal transit hub and local hospitality destination.

The building, which also marks its 100th anniversary this year, was instrumental in transforming Denver from a dusty frontier town to the largest city between Chicago and San Francisco. Over the years, though, thanks mostly to the growth of automobile culture (though, also air travel), the station’s significance declined. With this renovation also has come a repurposing.

Denver Union Station (DUS) still serves as a transportation center but this time it is primed to be the central locus of Denver’s emerging multimodal culture – bringing together bus termini and adding eight new tracks for AMTRAK and light rail and connecting to two free downtown shuttles. Soon, there also will be commuter rail and a dedicated line to Denver International Airport.

With its soaring 65-foot ceilings and arched windows, the old waiting room has been christened “The Great Hall.” Retail stores dot the periphery and include an outpost of the justly famous Tattered Cover Bookstore, Bloom flower home decor and jewelry shop, and 5 Green Boxes creative gifts and jewelry store. The Station also includes a wide variety of eating and drinking establishments that thankfully are of much higher pedigree than one has come to expect at such terminals.

The old ticket windows have been turned into The Terminal Bar, which features more than 30 Colorado craft beers and a huge outdoor patio. Looking down on the Great Hall from the second floor balcony is The Cooper Lounge, where a wide variety of cocktails are available along with an extensive wine list.

Within the Great Hall is a pretty amazing array of restaurants:

  • Stoic & Genuine, a seafood restaurant from Chef Jennifer Jasinski; (Top Chef, winner of the 2013 James Beard Award for Best Chef Southwest and owner of Rioja, Bistro Vendôme, and Euclid Hall in nearby Larimer Square)
  • Mercantile Dining & Provision, a full service restaurant and market from Chef Alex Seidel (of Fruition, a Food & Wine Best New Chef in 2010) for locally made foodstuffs, many of them produced at Fruition Farms, Seidel’s 10-acre sheep dairy and creamery in nearby Larkspur
  • The Kitchen Next Door Community Pub, an extension of the Boulder restaurant
  • Snooze, A.M. Eatery, another location of the popular breakfast and lunch joint
  • Fresh Exchange, fast casual place serving salads, sandwiches, and more
  • MilkBox Ice Creamery, located in the station’s classic former barber shop, featuring Denver’s Little Man Ice Cream
  • PigTrain Coffee, featuring Colorado’s Novo Coffee
  • ACME Burgers and Brats

Visitors also can relax on the Wynkoop Plaza, a refreshing outdoor space with 300 water jets in front of the station.

And adjacent to DUS just to its south, Portland-based Thirsty Lion Gastropub & Grill actually was the first eatery to open in the redevelopment. Thirsty Lion serves lunch, happy hour and dinner but its main attraction probably is the 52 beers on tap. Still, they have created a welcoming place where friends, families and area workers equally can enjoy the pub’s seasonal menu, beers, craft cocktails and 25 wines by the glass in the expansive, unique interior or large outdoor patio. I was a guest for lunch recently and enjoyed Bacon Wrapped BBQ Prawns, Copper River Salmon, and a chocolate brownie made with porter beer! All were well executed and delivered by a friendly waitstaff.

 The upper floors of the north and south wings of the building are occupied by The Crawford Hotel, named for Colorado’s legendary preservationist, Dana Crawford. The Crawford is a 112-room independent hotel, featuring three styles of uniquely decorated guest rooms that reflect the different eras of the building’s 100+ year history, including:
  • “Pullman” rooms modeled after the vintage luxury private railroad sleeping cars
  • “Classic” rooms with a contemporary twist on traditional design styles featuring tall ceilings and large windows
  • “Loft” rooms with exposed wood timbers, high vaulted ceilings and contemporary designs meant to resemble lofts in the adjacent Lower Downtown neighborhood
  • five suites, meeting space, and private event spaces

Named to the National Register of Historic Places, Denver Union Station expects to achieve LEED certification from the U.S. Green Building Council.

As the late, great historian Tony Judt* has written, during the century (about 1860-1960) that saw the rapid development of urban American, localities that embraced rail – which included embracing train stations – promoted the growth of community and civic culture as the lynchpin of a vibrant economy. Again, that changed after World War II with the spreading isolation of automobile culture and the associated growth of suburbia. Development and investment moved away from the city, especially the city center.

Nowadays, we are experiencing something of a “Back to the Future” moment. Once again, trains and train stations are being reinvested by farsighted cities that recognize their value as economic assets but also as generators of community and community character. With the reawakening of Denver Union Station, Denver is well positioned to reap these benefits as our residents, businesses and visitors “share (this) public space to common advantage.”

 

 

*For more of Tony Judt on cities and rail:

http://mostlyeconomics.wordpress.com/2011/03/01/the-importance-of-railways-in-urban-economics-and-society-development/

http://www.nybooks.com/articles/archives/2010/dec/23/glory-rails/?pagination=false

http://www.nybooks.com/articles/archives/2011/jan/13/bring-back-rails/?pagination=false

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ZINFANDEL PROVES AGAIN WHY IT’S MY FAVORITE WINE

As my favorite wine, I naturally drink a lot of Zinfandel. One reason is it’s quite versatile with food. It is great with spicy foods like Italian and Indian. But it really shines with the barbecue and grilled foods especially enjoyable this time of year.

 

I mostly love Zinfandel because it captures the essence of exuberance and zest in a glass. Although it can be made in different styles, it typically is big and bold, with a brash texture and lively raspberry, cherry and blackberry fruit accented with spice (black pepper, sage) and a brash, even a little wild character often described as briar or bramble. It also represents great value, as most of even the best wines are under $50.

 

Some things to keep in mind, though: Zinfandel tends toward high alcohol. The wines in my tastings ranged from 14% to 15.5%. Interestingly, nearly every wine contained some amount of petite sirah, usually to add backbone. Most will drink well for up to five years. Finally, I enjoyed the wines more when they were slightly chilled to 55 or 60 degrees. Here are my recommendations listed roughly in order of preference:

 

OUTSTANDING

2010 Bella “Rocky Ridge Vineyard” Rockpile ($45) – From one of the best Zinfandel producers, this high elevation (1300 feet) vineyard has produced a fine Zin that also will age well. It is dramatic and intense with brambly raspberry, cherry and blackberry, also spice and anise; it manages to be full-bodied yet elegant.

 

 

 

 

EXCELLENT

 

2012 Dry Creek Vineyard “Old Vine” Dry Creek Valley ($30) – The average 90+ year-old vines yield a firm but luscious wine of concentrated, briary black cherry and blackberry fruit, with suggestions of sweetness and spice.

 

2010 Bella “Lily Hill Estate” Dry Creek Valley ($40) – This vineyard, originally planted in 1915, has produced a big, juicy wine of concentrated wild berries and spicy herbs, with woodsy notes and a lush but firm texture that suggests improvement over time.

 

2011 Amapola Creek “Monte Rosso Vineyard” Sonoma Valley “Vinas Antiguas” ($42) –This unfiltered and unfined wine shows the pedigree of its mountain source and 118-year-old dry farmed vines. It is dense, with cherry and blueberry fruit, licorice, pepper and spice notes, sleek texture, and noticeable but soft tannins.

 

2012 Dry Creek Vineyard “Heritage Vines” Dry Creek Valley ($19) –This is rustic, though easy going, expressive with wild berry, pepper, chocolate and spice, all buttressed with bright acidity and fresh tannins.

 

VERY GOOD

 

2012 Artezin Mendocino ($17) – Also rustic, this delights with lively raspberry and boysenberry, spicy herb, a soft mouthfeel but solid tannic structure.

 

2011 Frank Family Napa Valley ($37) – As with most Napa wineries, Frank Family is best known for Cabernet but I’ve always enjoyed the Zin and this is another winner. Its ripe cherry and raspberry fruit compliment anise, spicy herb, sweet oak and a suggestion of minerality.

 

2012 Rancho Zabaco “Sonoma Heritage Vines” Sonoma County ($15) – Over half of the grapes for this Zinfandel specialist’s wine come from the Dry Creek Valley. It is plump, with juicy black and red fruits, brown spices, firm and spicy in the finish. Excellent value.

 

2010 Grgich Hills “Estate Grown” Napa Valley ($35) – From the winery’s organic and biodynamic Miljenko’s Vineyard, this is ripe and juicy as cherry and raspberry join chocolate, licorice and spicy herb in a dense wine finishing with firm tannins and some heat.

 

2011 The Federalist Dry Creek Valley ($29) – Honoring our founding fathers and zinfandel’s distinctly American character, this one offers tart cherry and spicy herb, balanced with brambly raspberry and blackberry and an intriguing char note.

 

2011 Artezin Dry Creek Valley ($25) – A solid Zin of juicy, ripe blackberries accented with earth and chocolate, weighty but balanced.

 

2010 Renwood “Premier Old Vine” Amador County ($20) –This one is loaded with jammy raspberry followed by spicy notes. Ample fruit nicely balances its firm structure.

 

2011 Four Vines ”Biker” Paso Robles ($18) – Another Zin specialist, zesty red fruits, spice and toasted herb flavors are its inviting calling cards.

 

2012 Pedroncelli “Mother Clone” Dry Creek Valley ($16) – After four generations in Sonoma, the Pedroncelli family still produces trustworthy Zins. This one’s peppery with black and tart red fruits, creamy and spicy notes, fresh acids and smooth tannins.

 

2011 Coup de Grâce Red Wine Lodi ($28) – intense old-vine character with spicy black and red berry fruit, licorice, earth, and full-bodied texture; not for the faint-hearted

 

OTHER GOOD ZINS WORTH YOUR ATTENTION

 
2012 Edmeades Mendocino ($20) – fermented with native yeast, briary red and black berries, hints of creamy oak, earth, and tobacco, lively acidity and ample tannins

 

2012 Zin-phomaniac Old Vines Lodi ($17) – The racy label beckons you but the wine delivers. Sourced from vineyards ranging from 20 to 75 years old, it’s very full-bodied, suggesting sweetness, with dark cherry, caramel and spice.

 

2012 Murphy-Goode Liar’s Dice Sonoma County ($21) – a welcoming blend of Dry Creek and Alexander Valley fruit offering jammy raspberry and black cherry with just a touch of spice

 

2012 Decoy Sonoma County ($25) – part of the Duckhorn portfolio, quite aromatic bright red berry tones, exuberant acidity finishing with a chalky note

 

2012 Rodney Strong Knotty Vines Sonoma County ($25) – a fine blend of old vine Russian River and Alexander Valley fruit, bright red cherry and cranberry with smoky and spicy notes, fairly tannic

 

2012 Caricature Old Vine Lodi ($17) – from the LangeTwins fifth generation Lodi farm, including some 100-year-old vines, spicy blackberry and boysenberry, with creamy, smoky notes

 

2011 Renwood Fiddletown Amador County ($25) – a rustic style, woodsy notes but quite ripe and peppery with a hint of anise, finishes tannic

 

2012 Kendall-Jackson “Vintner’s Reserve” Mendocino ($17) – brambly raspberry, plump and juicy blueberry, finishing with some grip

 

2012 Four Vines “Truant” California ($12) – juicy blue fruits, plump, easy drinking with good depth

 

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SUMMER’S WINDING DOWN BUT STILL SOME SEASONAL RELEASES TO TRY

There is still a month of summer left and I have some fascinating new releases for your consideration. This is really an impressive and creative line up. So, get out there and try them before they’re all gone.

 

Ska “Esteval” Cream Stout

5.8% ABV |

 

Estival is part of Ska’s Seasonal Stout Series, fitting for a summer release with its modest alcohol and medium body. Brewed with orange blossom honey, milk sugar, and aged on orange peels, it opens with notes of cream and coffee as a bit of that orange pokes through. On the palate, the orange flavor is more pronounced, while the creaminess persists. Full-flavored, yet lighter in body, it will make a great alternative when you feel like something more substantial than a lager or pale ale but still not too heavy.

 

As with all four of the stouts in the Seasonal Stout Series, Estival is released in cans. Based in Durango, Colorado, Ska Brewing was founded in 1995 and produces over a dozen beers, many of which are available in cans. Can or bottle or tap, make a point of checking out this one.

 

Breckenridge “Buddha’s Hand”

6% ABV | 15 IBU

 

This is the first release in Breckenridge’s “Mountain Series” designed for beers using special ingredients. The Mountain Series is a collection of pilot, small batch, and seasonal brews intended to showcase the creativity and experimentation in the brewery’s original Breckenridge brewpub and usually only available at the pub. As Breckenridge now maintains its production facility in Denver and has become the nation’s 40th largest craft brewery, the Mountain Series celebrates the brewery’s origin in 1990 as a small, ski town brewpub.

 

This limited edition, special release is a Belgian-style Witbier (wheat beer) brewed with the ancient citron fruit called “Buddha’s Hand,” a tropical fruit segmented into finger-like sections, said to resemble the hand of Buddha. This crisp and refreshing ale leads with creamy malt and mixed citrus fruits accented with pine notes. Similar flavors are supplemented with the taste of cardamom while it finishes crisp and refreshing.

Buddha’s Hand is included in the new Rocky Mountain Sampler 12-pack, which also features three of the brewery’s favorites, like Vanilla Porter, Avalanche, and Lucky U IPA. Future Mountain Series inclusions also will offer a seasonal touch to the package.

 

Deschutes

 

Deschutes offers us three special releases, each of which certainly can be enjoyed now but might be even better if you let them age a few months. Founded in 1988 as a brewpub in Bend, Oregon, Deschutes Brewery is known for brewing a diverse line-up of beers. And each of these would make good drinking any time of year.

 

Foray Belgian-Style IPA

6.4% ABV | 60 IBU

Malt: Pilsner, Carapils

Hops: Nugget, Amarillo, Mosiac, CTZ, Galaxy

Other: Belgian Yeast Strain

 

Foray is a brand-new addition to Deschutes’ Bond Street Series lineup (available in 22-ounce bottles and draft). It made its way into those bottles the same way all the Bond Street Series beers do – by being a popular “experiment” at Deschutes’ pubs. I would describe it as a hybrid incorporating elements of traditional Belgian ale delivering fruity notes and an American India Pale Ale with its typically pronounced citrusy hop character. A fairly new style, more and more breweries are releasing Belgian-style IPAs. They can only aspire to this level of quality.

 

Black Butte XXVI

10.8% ABV |

Malt: Pale, Wheat, Midnight Wheat, Chocolate, Crystal

Hops: Millennium, Cascade, U.S. Tettnang

Other: Theo Chocolate Cocoa Nibs, Pomegranate Molasses, Cranberries

 

Every year, Deschutes celebrates its anniversary with this double version of the flagship Black Butte Porter (part of the Reserve Series available in 22-ounce wax-dipped bottles and draft). But they don’t just replicate the same formula. They experiment with new ingredients. Past Black Butte’s have included chilies, chocolate nibs, dates, and figs, among other additions. This year, Deschutes says they decided to add cranberries, pomegranate molasses and Theo’s cocoa nibs. And half of the batch was aged in bourbon barrels.

 

This is a “Wow!” beer in all ways. The nose is loaded with coffee, chocolate, honey, coriander, orange, malt, and an herbal note reminiscent of basil. It also reveals hints of vanilla and of raisiny red fruit I can only assume come from those cranberries and pomegranates. These qualities carried over into my mouth, where they were joined by a balancing bitterness, some spice and a lingering aftertaste.

 

Doppel Dinkel Bock (Conflux Series No. 3)

10.5% ABV | 17 IBU

Malt: Spelt Malt, Carared Malt, Pilsner, Wheat Malt, Chocolate Wheat

Hops: Bravo, US Tettnang, Citra

Other: Traditional German Ale Yeast

 

One thing that is so cool about the craft beer industry is that even with the rapid growth of the past few years, both in terms of sales volume and new breweries, brewers don’t just compete for market share. There is an amazing amount of collaboration and collegiality.

 

I have one notable example here: this collaboration beer between Deschutes and Germany’s Distelhauser. After a friendship that spans two decades, they decided to collaborate on this unique beer. The brew deftly balances the dinkel malt (spelt, instead of the typical wheat, or weiss, malt) profile from Germany with the hop qualities of the Pacific Northwest. Deschutes describes this as an “imperial spelt beer.” The result features aromas of coffee, sweet malt, cherry vanilla, and a slight spiciness. It drinks full bodied but smooth.

 

Samuel Adams Latitude 48 IPA and Latitutde 48 IPA Single Hop Varieties

6.0% ABV | 60 IBU

Malt: Samuel Adams two-row pale malt blend, Caramel 60, and Gambrinus Honey

Hops: Hallertau Mittelfrueh, East Kent Golding, Zeus, Simcoe, Ahtanum, Mosaic

Other: Top-fermenting Ale yeast strain

 

Finally, a fascinating exercise in “hopology.” Latitude 48 IPA is brewed with a blend of five different hop varieties from notable growing regions in Germany, the UK, and the US, all (interestingly) close to the 48th Latitude. There is seldom an opportunity for those of us outside the brewing process to experience separately the character of the individual hop varieties in a beer.

 

Needless to say, I was quite surprised to find the box left on my doorstep contained not only samples of Latitute 48 IPA but also samples of single-hop IPAs for each of the five varieties. What the brewery calls “Samuel Adams Latitude 48 IPA Deconstructed” is available in 12-packs, so you can you can try the hop study yourself. It’s a brilliant idea and my tasting notes follow, first for the single hop bottles, then for the whole package:

 

Mosaic (Yakima Valley, WA) – pronounced grapefruit and some tropical notes, both on the nose and the palate, with the palate showing a little malt but mostly citrus and some tropical notes

 

East Kent Goldings (East Kent, UK) – spicy grapefruit dominates the very fresh aromas but a piney note emerges; tangy citrus joins a similar profile in the mouth, then it turns leafy and bitter just before pomegranate emerges; all this happens with a malty underpinning and finishes bitter and resinous, and maybe even tobacco (!)

 

Hallertau Mittelfreuh (Bavaria, Germany) – presents with spicy lemon and pine, then the palate follows with creamy, malty notes wrapped in more spice and some citrus

 

Simcoe (Yakima Valley, WA) – opens malty with hints of grapefruit and a sense of firmness, all of which continues in the mouth, which is dominated by grapefruit

 

Zeus (Yakima Valley, WA) – pleasant lime and light malt characterize the otherwise understated bouquet; drinks with strong citrus – lime and grapefruit – some spice, and a nicely bitter aftertaste

 

Latitude 48 IPA (reconstructed) – The nose presents mostly sweet malt character with light touches of citrus and pine. Drinking it reveals more prominent grapefruit and spice, with touches of tobacco. It is full and solid finishing crisp with a nicely bitter touch. This is a milder IPA style and is a welcome alternative to the many “monster” IPAs out there.

 

Certainly, it mirrors the citrus, spice, tobacco, and bitterness found variously in the single hop varieties. But none of the qualities dominate the overall brew. And maybe that’s the point of the study – suggestions of the character of each hop variety can be discerned in the whole but success in creating a balanced brew means that none overwhelms the others. In the end, the whole is greater or at least different than the sum of its parts.

 

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CHARDONNAYS FRESH ENOUGH FOR SUMMER HEAT

(Featured image courtesy of Sequoia Grove Vineyard.)

 

Chardonnay has something like a 30 year record as America’s favorite white wine. Its deserved reputation for greatness undoubtedly is at least partly responsible for that popularity. Another likely reason consumers have been so drawn to the wine is it can be made in different styles to appeal to different tastes and occasions.

 

Many wineries attempt to emulate the richness and depth of Burgundy, the benchmark for the grape. Thankfully, at least as many produce lighter, fresher, fruitier versions that can easily keep fans drinking their favorite wine throughout the heat of the summer.

 

These Chardonnays typically offer the grape’s ripe fruit flavors – usually citrus, apple, pear, or tropical, and sometimes melon or fig – but in a more easy drinking style and less of the spicy or toasty oak, honey, butter, cream, vanilla, butterscotch or hazelnut.

 

The key to the most successful examples is balancing use of oak barrels and secondary malolactic fermentation to compliment ripe fruit with good acidity. Judicious use of oak means less oak period but also less new oakand less time in barrel. Most are whole cluster pressed to preserve the freshness of the juice. Many only partially undergo the malolactic that softens and rounds out the juice.

 

I have tasted over three dozen Chardonnays in the last few months and have selected the following seventeen worth your attention.

Some, like the 2012 Four Vines “Naked” ($12), actually eschew oak altogether fermenting the juice in stainless steel tanks and aging the wine in bottle. Its bright, a bit sweet citrusy Santa Barbara County fruit shines through without inhibition. Only ten percent of the Sonoma County fruit that comprises the 2012 Decoy ($20) spent time in barrel, complimenting its slightly sweet citrus, pear and spice notes. The just fifteen percent of barrel time seen by the 2012 Pedroncelli “Signature Collection” ($14) disappears behind its lively lemon/lime and tropical Dry Creek Valley fruit.

 

 

The following wines successfully use just slightly more barrel treatment. The 2013 CrossBarn (by Paul Hobbs) Sonoma Coast ($25) – with its hazelnut and butter notes, racy citrus, apple and pineapple – is a real treat. At everyday prices, the 2011 Souverain North Coast ($13) – with just enough oak to balance the sweet fruit cocktail flavors –delivers refreshing drinking. The 2012 Murphy Goode California ($14) is juicy, viscous and like tasting lemon cream pie. The 2012 Rodney Strong Sonoma County ($17) quite aromatic, with fresh citrus orange, a juicy crisp finish, and an intriguing touch of licorice.

 

The 2012 Sequoia Grove Napa Valley ($28) takes a different approach. While the wine is barrel aged and fermented, more than two-thirds of those barrels are neutral oak. And significantly, the wine did not go through the secondary malolactic fermentation that would have softened its crisp citrus, apple and pear flavors.

 

And the 2012 Artesa Carneros ($20) strikes a middle ground with half stainless steel, half oak and half malolactic yielding a fresh and juicy wine, featuring lively tropical and orange fruits broadened by lightly creamy notes. With a similar approach, the 2012 Wente “Morning Fog” Livermore Valley ($15) achieves a pleasantly fruit forward style.

 

 

As much as I came to prefer the lighter touch in my tastings, I also found several wines that underwent full malolactic fermentation and were treated with significant oak during both fermentation and aging (though spare on the new oak) but deftly walk the line between richness and freshness, making them fine choices for current drinking. Despite the abbreviated notes, they all are very good wines.

 

  • 2011 Matanzas Creek Sonoma County ($26) succulent
  • 2012 Kendall-Jackson “Grand Reserve”($22) dramatic fruit impact
  • 2011 J. Lohr “Highlands Bench” Santa Lucia Highlands ($25) focused, deep fruit
  • 2012 Byron Santa Barbara County ($17) spicy lemon cream
  • 2012 La Crema Sonoma Coast ($23) ripe white peach
  • 2012 Alta Maria Santa Maria Valley ($28) brisk but full fruited
  • 2012 Wente “Riva Ranch” Arroya Seco ($22) mixed citrus/tropical fruits

 

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FRESH ROSÉS AND LIGHT REDS FOR SUMMER SIPPING

Think Pink for Summer!

 

DRY pink wines seem to be gaining appreciation in this country. Of course, sweet “blush” wines have been popular for years. Europeans, on the other hand, have known for a long time the joy of drinking a good pink wine. The most common term is Rosé (French) but you may also see Rosato (Italian) and Rosado (Spanish).

 

I’m talking about wines that are dry or occasionally only slightly sweet. Expect bright, fresh fruit aromas and flavors of strawberry, cherry, raspberry, or cranberry. Some even exhibit a red-like level of intensity, body and complexity. But the best always display fresh fruit aromas and flavors that approximate the profile of their red siblings but drink more like white wines. Because of their freshness and lively fruit, pinks are always best drunk young, so look for the most recent vintages available.

 

There are essentially three ways to make a pink wine. The most common method is to crush red grapes and leave the juice in contact with the grape skins (the source of a wine’s color) only briefly. The second technique is a process called “saignée” in which a certain amount of juice is “bled off” shortly after red grapes are crushed. The third approach involves blending white and red wines to the desired effect.

 

Among devotees, France is the prime source. There is a dizzying array of French Rosés from all over the country but most notably the south – places like Provence, Languedoc-Roussillon, Bandol, Cotes-du-Rhone, and Tavel. But just about every other wine producing country also has gotten into the act.

For instance, I came across a nice 2013 Pedroncelli Dry Creek Valley Signature Collection “Dry Rosé of Zinfandel” ($12). This 87 year-old winery has produced a flavorful rose at a fair price. From Spain, the 2013 Cune Rioja Rosado ($14), made from the dominant local red grape, tempranillo, was fresh and flavorful with tasty strawberry and raspberry notes.

 

And from Esporão, Portugal’s leading family winery since 1267, I have two recommended Rosados. The 2013 “Alandra” at $7 won’t break the bank and shows amazing depth of fruit (dark berries and cherries) for this price. It is a blend of indigenous arogonez and touriga nacional with syrah. The 2013 “Vinha da Defesa” ($15), which blends arogonez and syrah, offers fresh, fruity aromas and a touch of wild strawberries on the palate.

Finally, from South Africa the 2013 Mulderbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé ($12) not surprisingly is made from 100% cabernet sauvignon. It is a bit bigger than your typical rosé, yet is still refreshing with cherry and currant fruit.

 

Light Reds Have Their Place, Too

 

Like most folks, I drink a lot less red wine during warm weather months. But there are lighter reds that can be plenty satisfying this time of year. And don’t be afraid to chill them down a bit.

 

German Pinot Noir. You might think Germany is an unlikely place to look for what we call Pinot Noir and they call Spatburgunder. But try the four wines below and that attitude may change. While Riesling is justifiably the great wine import of Germany, the estates below (located in the Baden region) are considered among the best producers of German Pinot Noir. While a bit pricey and hard to find, these are light and fresh but flavorful and worthy of your attention.

                                                       

  • 2011 Franz Keller “Franz Anton” Schwartzer Adler ($42): bright red cherry, slightly earthy and smoky; bright fruit in the forefront with soft tannin
  • 2011Franz Keller Schwartzer Adler ($25): more complex with dark cherry, brown spices, oak, earth and mushroom notes but drinks with crisp red cherry
  • 2010 Bernhard Huber Malterdinger ($38): deep, sweet berry fruit is up front; earthy note joins a very fresh palate and a nicely bitter touch in the finish
  • 2010 Salwey Trocken ($22): plump dark red fruits blend with bitter herbs and earthy flourishes all drinking juicy and fresh

 

My recent tastings have revealed a handful of other good choices.

 

2010 CUNE Rioja Crianza ($14). This young wine comes from one of Spain’s older wineries (founded in 1879). Dominated by tempranillo with small amounts of local grapes mazuelo and garnacha, fermentation in stainless steel with just one year of oak aging, yields fresh, bright red berries with some earth and elegant, yet lively balance.

 

2012 Pedroncelli Sangiovese Alto Vineyards ($16). This nearly 90 year old winery was a pioneer of grape growing in Sonoma County’s Dry Creek Valley and is still family owned. Harkening to their Italian heritage this Tuscan-style wine offer dark cherry, forest, herb and light spice in a welcoming and easy drinking frame.

2010 Mulderbosch “Faithful Hound” ($18). This Bordeaux-style blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, petit verdot, cabernet franc, and malbec is soft but complex with forest and tobacco notes but also generous fruit assisted by stainless steel fermentation and barrel maturation. 

2011 Souverain Cabernet Sauvignon North Coast ($13). Souverain consistently produces some of California’s mostreliable wine values and this Cab (buttressed with dollops of four other grapes) is no exception. Fresh red fruits meld with cocoa for a juicy, satisfying drink.

 

 

2012 Caricature Cabernet Sauvignon ($17). Caricature is a fun label of lighthearted wines produced by LangeTwins Family Winery in the Lodi region east of the Bay Area. The area is known for producing flavorful grapes at low prices. Bright red cherry and red currant join cedar notes in a light and tangy drink.

 


2012 Gnarly Head Cabernet Sauvignon ($12). This is a label produced by the Indelicato Family, who has an over 80-year history of winegrowing in California. Committed to sustainable winegrowing in their Monterey and Lodi vineyards, they have produced a wine with fairly deep berry fruit that is soft but fresh and tangy with sweet fruit.

 

2011 Kendall-Jackson “Vintner’s Reserve” Summation ($17). Kendall-Jackson has grown over the last three decades into one of California’s largest wine producers but quality hasn’t suffered. The Vintner’s Reserve line still regularly offer good value. Summation is the red blend and this one is one-third syrah and one-third zinfandel, with dollops of at least five other grapes. Expect really nice black fruits with a whiff of smoke and a hint of wood wrapped in a smooth texture.

 

2011 Caricature Red Blend ($17). This blend is mostly cabernet sauvignon and zinfandel, which contributes vibrant cherry, prune and currant fruit while some oak aging imparts caramel notes. It all glides light and tangy over the palate, finishing refreshingly slightly bitter.

 

These red wines are delightfully crisp, fruity, and fragrant. And they are easy drinking and natural matches for the lighter foods of summer, as well as grilled and barbecued. For generally reasonable prices, these wines also provide a refreshing combination of acidity and in many cases moderate alcohol – perfect for warm weather. Enjoy!

 

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FRESH, FRAGRANT WHITES ARE PERFECT FOR WARM WEATHER

What I like most about spring and summer is the blossoming of aromas and how that signals the awakening of life after the slumber of winter.  And a cool, light, crisp, refreshing white wine is just the compliment for the warmer weather. Below are a variety of recommendations from my tastings over the past several months.

 

German Riesling. My favorite white wine any time of year is German Riesling. These wines typically are enticingly aromatic with bracing acidity and typically green apple, citrus and stone fruit flavors. Most intriguing, there often is a distinctive mineral component. It produces aromatic wines of high acid and, unusual for a white wine, potentially long life. The fragrant, flowery aromas lead into fresh green apple, pear and occasionally peach, apricot, pineapple, or mineral flavors are delivered with bracing acidity. The wines below provide some blanced sweetness.

  • 2012 Bischofliche “Ayler Kupp” Kabinett ($23) – a single vineyard wine from the Mosel is fresh, fruitful and satisfying, with just a hint of sweetness.
  • 2012 Friedrich-Wilhelm-Gymnasium “Graacher Himmelreich” Kabinett ($23) – similar to the Ayler but more pronounced apple.
  • 2012 Schloss Vollrads Spatlese ($31) – from a storied estate in the Rheingau, this one is sweeter but delightfully fresh with minerality.
  • 2012 “Fritz Willi” (by Friedrich Wilhelm Gymnasium, $12) – a good entry-level wine is another successful effort by a venerable winery to produce a wine labeled in a more consumer friendly manner. It is made from grapses sourced from the Graacher Himmelreich, Graacher Domprobst, Bernkasteler Badstube, Trittenheimer Apotheke and Falkensteiner Hofberg vineyards in the Mosel and Saar valleys.

 

Chenin Blanc. Native to the Loire Valley, Chenin Blanc also is a personal favorite and has found a few hospitable locales in California. There, it is usually produced in a fruity, slightly sweet style, though a few brave souls (like Dry Creek Vineyard) make a dry style inspired by the fine wines of the Loire Valley Savennieres. The 2013 Dry Creek Vineyard ($12) made with grapes from Clarksburg near Sacramento, is always a reliable choice. This stainless steel fermented wine is quite fragrant with peach, melon, apple and citrus.

South Africa also is quickly becoming a reliable source of good Chenin Blanc, as the 2011 Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc “Steen op Hout” ($14) demonstrates. Although this wine saw some time in barrel, it is fresh, fruity, and bright, with deep apple, pear and cashew in nose and zesty acidity and tropical fruit mouth.

 

California Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio. There may be no better summer wine than a crisp, refreshing Pinot Gris. Just in time for the warmer weather. Pinot Gris, the so-called “grey pinot,” also can be a fine choice this time of year. It reaches its epitome in Alsace and can be quite fine in Oregon but I found the 2013 MacMurray Estate Vineyards Russian River Valley Pinot Gris ($20), the first bottling under the winery’s new label, to have enticingly rich flavors of pear, baked apple, dried fig and white peach. It is fermented in stainless steel and one-quarter is aged on the lees.

Pinot Grigio, usually suggesting a lighter Italian style, is the best known type among Americans. At half the price, the 2013 Belle Ambiance California Pinot Grigio ($10) is typical of the style, as it tends to fresh citrus and melon carried in a brisk, yet easygoing frame.

 

Spain. Native grapes from Spain’s northwest region of Rías Baixas and the northern region of Rioja, which is better known for its red wines, make for light hearted, zesty summer sippers. The 2013 Cune “Monopole” Rioja ($15) is produced using local viura, the major white grape of the region, which, like its namesake macbeo in Penedes, is noted for its aromatics and acidity.

 

From Rías Baixas, the 2013 Terras Gauda “O Rosal” ($24) is a blend dominated by albariño (the most important white grape of that region), with additions of loureiro and caiño blanco (which had almost disappeared from the region but was recovered by Terras Gauda in the 1990s). all from the O Rosal Valley, this blend produces a wine with crisp and lively fresh citrus, orange and peach deepened with an earthy touch.

 

Italy. While Italy is justly famous for its red wines, there also is a plethora of interesting white wines. Much of that interest, as with Spain, comes from the indigenous grapes. Someday I need to write a whole article on Italy’s whites but for now here are a few nice ones from Italy’s northeast.

 

From the northeastern province Friuli near Venice, the 2012 Masi Masianco ($15) is a unique, enticing blend of mostly pinot grigio and some indigenous verduzzo produced using the traditional winemaking method of drying the grapes before fermentation (known as appassimento) to increase concentration and intensity. crisp citrus, honey Lemon, peach, dried apricot, honey, touch of spice, honey and cantaloupe melon

 

Prosecco, with its light, frothy flavors has achieved significant popularity in recent years. It comes from an unlikely area in the Veneto, in the hills just north of Venice and is made using the native glera grape. Affordable and eminently drinkable (typically lower alcohol), it is a versatile for many occasions. I recently enjoyed the Prosecco from La Marca ($17) from a 40-year-old cooperative representing 5,000 local winegrowers who farm more than 17,000 acres. Its clean, refreshing style and delicate, apple fruit are quite appealing. Another good option, the Piccini Prosecco ($16) also was very nice, with a profile of white flowers, white peaches, and pears.

 

Speaking of Italian bubbly, you may not be aware the “Metodo Classico” (the Champagne Method) bubbly made in the Franciacorta region in the foothills of the Alps not far from Lake Garda is some of the best sparkling wine in the world. Franciacorta also uses the traditional Champagne grapes pinot noir and chardonnay. The Berlucchi family gets credit for initiating the practice in the 1970’s. Their 2006 Berlucchi Franciacorta ‘61 Brut ($35) – 100% chardonnay and bottle aged five years – is crisp, elegant and refined. The ’61 refers to 1961 as the year the brand was founded.  With apple and pear fragrances and velvety texture, this wine displays lovely depth and a zesty acidity.

 

 

 

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SUMMER SEASONALS PROVIDE REFRESHMENT FOR THE HEAT OF SUMMER

Featured Image: “Summer wildflowers in the Rocky Mountains” courtesy of  Adirondack Explorer.

 

Every year as summer draws near, America’s craft brewers roll out their summer seasonals. The MO is to produce beers with light body, low alcohol and refreshing flavors. Often such beers emphasize lightness too much for my taste – too often they are also light on flavor. Usually, when I’m looking for something more delicate, I’ll pass on the “summer beer” and go for maybe a Pale Ale or an IPA. But the beers below are different. Yes, they are lighter and more refreshing but they also give ample flavor – and the term “summer seasonal” a more respectable name.

 

Deschutes Twilight Summer Ale. This summer seasonal from Deschutes is ideal for the warm weather. Inthe style of a Pale Ale it is fairly strong with hoppy bitterness (provided by whole cone Amarillo, Northern Brewer, Cascade, and Tettnang hops) and a refreshing citrus, slightly spicy aroma. This is nicely complimented by Cara-Pils and Carastan malts, which add roundness, softening the hoppy edges. The aroma offers fresh wheaty, malty notes, which are reprised in a firm palate and a crisp, slightly hoppy finish. Overall, it shows nicely balanced malt and hop qualities, with 35 IBUs. Not too heavy, not too light, its 5% ABV is just right for warm weather sipping.

 

Samuel Adams Porch Rocker. This is a good example of a seasonal brew specifically concocted in this case for the summer heat and outdoor activities. Lemon is added to the Samuel Adams two-row pale malt blend and Hallertau Mittelfrueh Noble hops and it sure shows through. As the company notes, this is a take on a Bavarian Radler, which typically combines lager and lemonade. It’s lightness is emphasized by its low 4.5% ABV and 8 IBUs.

 

Samuel Adams Summer Ale. This one is a different take on the summer seasonal. It is an American wheat ale refreshed with Hallertau Mittelfrueh and Saaz Noble hops that, along with the addition of lemon peel, presents a bright citrus note. But this time the citrus is balanced with malty notes from Samuel Adams two-row pale malt blend and malted wheat and a suggestion of pepper from the addition of Grains of Paradise. It all makes for a pleasant sipper for a pleasant summer day. 5.3% ABV and IBUs 7 

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IT’S A COGNAC! IT’S A SHERRY! IT’S A PORT! NO, IT’S A BEER!

A review of the latest (2013) Samuel Adams Utopias

The new 2013 release of Samuel Adams Utopias is the latest in a nearly thirty year journey of founder Jim Koch to redefine what beer can be. As with so much in the craft beer industry, Samuel Adams has been a pioneer of what has come
to be known as “Extreme Beer.”

Beginning with Triple Bock in 1994, Samuel Adams has been in the forefront of the movement to push the envelope of complexity and alcohol. Triple Bock came in at 17.5% alcohol by volume (ABV). In 2000, Samuel Adams released Millennium Ale at 21% ABV. Then came Utopias in 2002 at 25% ABV. Since then, a new edition of Utopias has been released roughly every two years. The 2013 edition clocks in at 28% ABV. That’s liqueur territory!

 

Certainly the craft beer world has continued to challenge convention about styles and variations on styles of beer. That includes ingredients, brewing methods and alcohol levels. But Sam Adams’ Utopias really challenges all conceptions of what beer can be.

 

It’s still brewed with hops and malts using traditional methods. Utopias begins with two-row Caramel and Munich malts and Hallertau Mittelfrueh, Spalt Spalter, and Tettnang Tettnanger hops. Several yeast strains (including one used for Champagne) are used in fermentation. And maple syrup is added. But that is where normalcy ends.

 

Added to the mix for the first time is the brewery’s wild ale, “Kosmic Mother Funk” (KMF), a Belgian-style wild ale barrel-aged nine months-to-two years in large Hungarian oak casks. A lot of craft beers these days are aged in wood barrels but Utopias takes this, yes, to extremes. It undergoes a blending process similar to wine, in this case combining batches aged in a variety barrels, including Port casks and Rum barrels from Nicaragua. The final blend includes some batches that have been aged up to twenty years in a variety of barrels. And this year a portion was aged in single use bourbon casks from Buffalo Trace Distillery.

 

So, how does all this taste? First, newcomers to the brew will be surprised to find it is not carbonated. Also unusual for beer, Samuel Adams recommends Utopias be sipped and savored at room temperature (basically the same as Cognac: about a two-ounce pour in a snifter).

 

It opens with aromas of caramel and maple followed by an explicitly briny sensation, like sea breeze. There are alcoholic notes reminiscent of Cognac accented with toffee. You might also notice vanilla and tobacco. It drinks smooth and viscous with layers of complexity. There also are tangy and berry fruit elements keeping the taste lively amidst the sweetness and a distinct alcoholic burn.

 

Naturally, Utopias is packaged in unique 24-ounce ceramic bottles fashioned to look like a traditional copper brew kettle. It is sealed with a basic crown cap but also a resealable screw cap. That combined with the high alcohol and lack of carbonation allow Utopias to be enjoyed over long period.

 

Here’s the one catch, though: that 24-ounce bottle retails at $200. This will prove an obstacle most will not be able to overcome. Heck, most of us would be unwilling to spend that much even on a great wine or Scotch. But, if you have the money or can get together with some friends on a bottle or even find it somewhere by the glass, it will be an experience I doubt you’ll regret.

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CRISP, REFRESHING SAUVIGNON BLANC WELCOMES WARMER WEATHER

As the weather warms and animals and plants come out of their hibernation, so too do many humans – at least metaphorically. It is natural to begin thinking about picnics, grilling and sitting out on the patio sipping a refreshing white wine.

 

Sauvignon Blanc is an ideal, if often underappreciated choice for such moments. The grape is one of the parents (with cabernet franc) of the great red grape cabernet sauvignon. It is responsible for the Loire Valley wines of Sancerre and Pouilly Fume and, with semillon, the white Bordeaux of Graves and Sauternes. The grape also has found hospitable surroundings in New Zealand, South Africa, Australia, and Chile.

 

In this column, I focus on California, where winemakers are doing a better job these days of matching clones and vineyard sites, and balancing the use of oak and stainless steel in fermentation and aging to emphasize the grape’s zesty green and citrus fruits and distinctive herbaceousness. These traits enable Sauvignon Blanc to pair nicely with the lighter foods of spring and summer.

 

Everyday Patio Sippers

 

As with other wines, there are Sauvignon Blancs that are lighter, varietally correct, and recommended for their straightforward pleasure.

2012 Souverain North Coast ($13). Tangy citrus and tropical fruit accented with grassy, herbal notes and firm acidity given extra texture with a touch of oak and lees aging.

 

2013 Decoy Sonoma County ($20). Pungent herbal notes precede sweet green fruits and a firm style that finishes with a touch of bitterness.

 

2012 Sticky Beak Russian River Valley ($17). Nice grassy and grapefruit entry complimented with a touch of richness from a judicious use of oak fermentation.

 

2013 Pedroncelli Dry Creek Valley East Side Vineyards ($13). Fermented 100% in stainless steel, juicy lemon, lime and orange drink softly, with fresh herb notes and a touch of hay.

 

2012 Lange Twins Lodi Musque Clone ($13). Brisk gooseberry, citrus and tropical fruits join woodsy herbs.

 

Best with Food

 

Sauvignon Blanc can be fun and a serious drink. These wines show more character and complexity that are best enjoyed as accompaniments to food.

2012 Grgich Hills Estate Napa Valley “Fume Blanc” ($30). Always a favorite from this storied producer, this opens with enticing citrus and tropical fruit that balance assertive herbaceous qualities. It enters with bracing acidity (though shows a certain richness) giving a mouthwatering, juicy impact that makes for enjoyable drinking now while suggesting it can satisfy for a few years.

 

2012 Alta Maria Vineyards Santa Barbara County ($18). Fresh herbs with lively grapefruit, lemon and orange citrus qualities, are buttressed with juicy acidity.

 

2012 Clos du Val Napa Valley ($24). This all stainless steel wine offers bright acidity and very ripe lemon citrus and peach, with green herb notes, finishing brisk but surprisingly round and viscous.

 

Matanzas Creek’s Exploration of Sauvignon Blanc

 

With the release of its 2012 portfolio, Matanzas Creek looks to cement a place as one of planet’s top Sauvignon Blanc producers. These wines all share a winemaking approach that apportions fermentation and aging in stainless steel and neutral, large oak barrels.

 

2012 Sonoma County ($21). Quite fragrant and flavorful, its range of grapefruit and other citrus, hints of melon, fig and spicy herb are delivered with a delightful texture and bracingly fresh throughout. A touch of semillon adds complexity.

2012 Bennett Valley ($32). Wonderfully expressive with a broad range of citrus, melon and tropical fruits, plus melon and lemongrass, this is intense and bracing, balancing spot on herbaceousness with earth notes, and lingering invitingly. It will drink well for several years.

2012 Helena Bench Knight’s Valley ($40). This one is really strong on the herbal, green and spicy qualities of the grape. You are likely to find an assortment of citrus and tropical fruits but also mineral, stone and smoke, all wrapped in a tangy, yet rich finish.

 

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CALIFORNIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON: VALUES ARE HARD TO FIND BUT THEY ARE THERE

 

 

Over the last several months, I have tasted 46 California Cabs from a wide range of prices. While California produces thousands of Cabs, this sample has lead me to conclude it’s getting harder to find good values in California Cabernet. Still, they are there and I have included 16 in this report. Recommended wines are listed in order of preference in each category.

 

Everyday Drinking

 

I know some of you will be asking, “what about wines under $10?” Well, everyone I tasted in the past year just didn’t make the cut. It is disappointing that solid quality is getting harder to find for less than $20 a bottle. I did find one admirable option in the 2012 William Hill North Coast ($14). It’s a really good value with solid structure and tasty fruit.

 

After that, we quickly are over $20 a bottle. But at least I found some gems for you.

 

2011 Rodney Strong Alexander Valley ($28). This is one of the best values in this report and is a perennial value. Its extravagant black fruits and toasty oak make for a complex wine finishing with refined tannins.

 

2012 Decoy Sonoma County ($25). Lots of dark fruits wrapped in caramel oak. A bit hard and tannic at first but opens up nicely. Will evolve for a few years.

 

2011 Silver Palm North Coast ($22). Quite forceful blackberry, pine and woodsy notes but a lighter, smooth texture

 

2011 Rodney Strong Sonoma County ($20). Nice black fruits and a light earthy note, soft and amiable.

 

Sweet Spot of Quality/Value

 

These wines are definitely a step up, sure in price but importantly also in quality. Yes, we’re now over $30 and even $40 a bottle. But if you are willing to spend more money, these wines will deliver your money’s worth. Further, the wineries listed in this section are ones I have found to be extremely reliable in recent years.

 

2010 Stonestreet “Monument Ridge” ($45). Bursting with beautiful berry fruits accented with touches of spicy herbs, graphite and mocha and a complex fruit/oak/tannin profile. Gorgeous now, it might be even better in five years.

 

2010 Frank Family Napa Valley ($50). Inviting black and red currants, with creamy oak and licorice, a solid structure and layered texture make this all around delicious. Noticeable tannins suggest 5-10 years of further development.

 

2011 Atalon Napa Valley ($35). Opens with intriguing earthy, minty and herbal notes that mix with generous red and black fruits. It is fairly full with a juicy palate finishing on a pleasantly bitter note.

 

2011 Kendall-Jackson “Grand Reserve” ($30). Strong, woodsy-minty-smoky aromas precede rich, blackberry and boysenberry fruit. This continues on the palate gliding along finishing with powdering tannins.

 

2009 Arrowood Sonoma County ($30). Bright cherry, tealeaf and pine scents introduce vibrant red berries, a soft palate, and a finish of fresh tannins.

 

2010 J. Lohr Hilltop ($35). Opens noticeably gravelly and moderately plummy. It’s soft and smooth with succulent fruit and a round finish. Made in an appealing, easy-drinking style.

 

Splurges

 

2009 Duckhorn Howell Mountain ($80). Duckhorn is known for making big, tough, tannic Cabs and this one doesn’t stray too far. Yet, it also reveals an elegance that allows abundant black cherry and currant fruit to emerge along with cocoa and cedar notes. It is inviting now but will drink well for at least ten years.

 

2010 Grgich Hills Napa Valley ($60). Shows a vibrant beam of lively acidity as its core, as is this winery’s style. Around that is built a frame of concentrated cassis and cherry, with hints of earth and dried herbs.  This certified organic and biodynamic wine should please for at least ten years.

 

2008 Dry Creek Endeavour ($65). Big, ripe, with rich oak, deep berry fruit and rich chocolate flavors offset with a loamy note, this one will be at its best in a few years and should have a long future.

 

2010 Duckhorn Napa Valley ($70). Very structured and firm suggesting patience is needed to fully enjoy its already beckoning currant and blackberry fruit, cedar and spice bouquet and lush texture.

 

2010 Cakebread Napa Valley ($60). Enticingly juicy and nicely concentrated red and black fruits are balanced with oak, dried herb and earth notes and finished with fine tannins. This is another one enjoyable now but a candidate for long aging.