The People's Palate with Rich Mauro

Out of the thousands known red grape varieties, three – cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and pinot noir – are the most popular. This column focuses on other French varieties – Bordeaux and Rhône –that definitely are worth drinking more often.

Malbec has become known mostly as the signature grape of Argentina. But its roots are in southern France, in Cahors and less so in Bordeaux.

2019 Chappellet Napa Valley ($75) from high on the highly sought after Pritchard Hill overlooking Napa Valley; trademark juicy red fruit, earth, tobacco, with concentration, toast, velvety texture 

2019 Brandlin Mount Veeder ($75) from a south-facing slope in the estate vineyard; intense blackberry, black currant, woody notes, tea, opulent oak, mouthfilling, 

Cabernet franc is a parent of cabernet sauvignon. It is a significant component of many Bordeaux blends. 

2019 Mt. Brave Mt. Veeder ($95) estate vineyard planted since the early 1860s; part of the Jackson Family Wines portfolio; concentrated fruit, dark cherries, slightly herbal, earthy note, Asian spice, graphite, fine tannins 

2021 Owen Roe “Rosa Mystica” ($42) Rosa Mystica was the original name of the estate vineyard in Washington’s Yakima Valley, now known as Union Gap Vineyard; dark fruits, earth, fresh tannins

Petit verdot likely is the least known grape allowed in a Bordeaux blend. We less often see it as a varietal wine but it can be a treat. 

2019 Ovis Lake County ($60) a selection of the best block of petit verdot in the Red Hills estate vineyard; deep blackberry, black cherry, herbs, black pepper, clove, rugged

Syrah is planted extensively in southern France. It is the sole variety in the wines of the Northern Rhône and a significant component in blends of the Southern Rhône. It also performs exceedingly well in Australia.

2019 Cuvaison “Diablo” Carneros-Napa ($55) a small lot estate selection; full, rich, ripe dark berries, cocoa, black pepper, firm tannins 

2020 Ram’s Gate Richard’s Vineyard ($70) vineyard in the Sonoma Valley known for award winning syrahs; intense dark fruits, powerful tannins, black pepper

2018 Fulldraw Vineyard FD2 ($55) considered their introduction to Fulldraw wines;

a leading family grower and producer of Rhône varieties in Paso Robles; 60% grenache, 40% syrah; estate grown, bright juicy strawberry, black raspberry, concentrated, full-bodied

2021 Horsepower Vineyards High Contrast Vineyard ($133) a project of vigneron Christophe Baron who founded the now cult status Cayuse in the Walla Walla Valley; specializing in single vineyard Syrah and Grenache wines; impressively complex, vibrant mixed berries, black tea, white pepper, mineral, polished mouthfeel, a stunner 

Grenache is the primary component of the southern Rhône Valley’s famous Châteauneuf-du-Pape and many other wines of southern France. Though, native to Spain, where it is known as garnacha. 

2021 Horsepower Vineyards Fiddleneck Vineyard ($133) dense, black and red fruits, fruit forward, floral, meaty, mineral, savory, full, firm, rich 

The Douro Valley of Portugal, with a winemaking heritage of around three thousand years, today is best known for Port, a wine with over a three hundred year history. a sweet, high alcohol (fortified with brandy) red wine, it is considered among the great wines in the world.

Naturally, Port is mostly thought of as a dessert wine, especially with chocolate desserts. But it can be enjoyed with other foods. Nuts and cheeses work well, too, especially blue cheeses. And some swear by game meats. Finally, I often enjoy Port itself as dessert.

Symington Family Estates is a leading premium port producer dating to 1882. All Symington vineyards are sustainably managed under a minimum intervention certification and a large number are organically. The family has an ambitious sustainability plan to adapt to climate change. In 2019 the company became a certified B Corporation, which is type of businesses audited for the highest standards of social and environmental responsibility. Here are recommendations for several of the wineries in their portfolio.

Cockburn’s Special Reserve ($22) founded in 1815; creator of the first Reserve Port, a special type of Ruby Port, in 1969; typically fresh, exuberant, intense berry, grapey fruit, luscious texture.

Graham’s Six Grapes, Reserve ($28) established in 1820; an early pioneer of estate owned vineyards; fragrant Ruby Port of rich dark fruits, chocolate, full bodied and structured but with finesse.

Graham’s 10 Year Old Tawny ($42) Tawny Port is distinguished from Ruby Port by a process that marries multiple vintages for average periods ranging from ten to forty years in cask; balances delicacy and elegance; nutty aromas combined with hints of honey and figs on the nose, mature fruit flavors and a long, luscious finish.

Graham’s 20 Year Old Tawny ($70) enticing complexity of almond, orange and berry fruits mellowed by aging, sense of purity; smooth, balanced, elegant finish.

Dow’s 2018 Late Bottled Vintage ($30) dating to 1798; Dow’s has a long history as one of the most important names in Port; fresh black fruit, intense, structured, peppery; one of Port’s best values, Late Bottled Vintage Port is a Vintage Port in style, but less expensive and more accessible.

Ramos Pinto 10 Year Old “Quinta De Ervamoira” ($40) nestled in the Douro Superior sub-region close to the Spanish border; vineyards planted vertically, in a unique amphitheater fashion, instead of terraced; extreme summer heat concentrates the grapes; recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage site; rich notes of searing dried plum, almond, tangy orange; delightfully mellow with succulent fig and plum, with
hints of vanilla

Sonoma County may be the most diverse wine region in California. But over the last couple decades, as growers and winemakers realized its cool climate sites, most notably the western and southern reaches of the Russian River Valley, tend to produce outstanding pinot noir grapes. The proximity to bodies of water – the river and the ocean – and associated fog and cool breezes, ensure long ripening seasons and optimum flavor development.

Wines in this column are listed in order of my preference but all are highly recommended.

2021 Paul Hobbs George Menini Estate ($95) From one of the most prestigious wineries in the world, this is the inaugural release from this vineyard, acquired in 2012. Located in the Sebastopol Hills in the southwest region of the Russian River Valley. This Pinot deftly balances juicy acidity with supple tannins and savory nuance with bright fruit.

2021 Chappellet Apple Lane Vineyard “Three Blocks” ($70) From a winery that has been producing highly prized Napa Valley wines since 1967, its Grower’s Collection presents single vineyard wines from selected, highly respected growers in Sonoma County. This vineyard is in the Green Valley subregion and the wine is a special selection of the most prized vineyard blocks. Beautiful red fruits, baking spices, herbal notes, luscious texture.

2019 DuMOL Estate Vineyard ($75) Also known as the Coffee Lane Vineyard, this coastal ridge top property the Green Valley district – with its cooling breezes and proximity to the fog that make it the coolest area in the Russian River Valley – consistently produces fine wines. And with high-density planting, this means higher acidity, tannin and ageability, concentration dense texture, nuance and depth, balanced by vibrant acidity

2019 En Route Les Pommiers ($60) Founded by the highly respected Napa winery Far Niente, this wine sources grapes from top vineyards throughout the valley. This results in a deep, rich, savory wine of ripe red fruits and enticing baking spices.

2019 Inman Family Wines OGV Estate ($75) Dedicated to “eco ethics”– sensitive farming, low intervention winemaking and environmentally responsible business practices, it’s no surprise the Olivet Grange Vineyard (OGV) located in the Santa Rosa Plain neighborhood of the Russian River Valley has been farmed organically since purchased in 1999. Made without any additions to the juice and fermented with the native yeast and naturally available malolactic bacteria. This yields a wine of fresh red berries, focus, and earth, minerality, and savory spice.

2019 Lynmar Estate Quail Hill Vineyard ($76) With a four-decade legacy rooted in stewardship, community, and purpose, Lynmar’s sustainably farmed estate Quail Hill Vineyard has produced a generous wine of juicy dark fruits, forest, tea and mushroom notes.

2021 Rodney Strong Reserve ($60) Family-owned since 1959, this Sonoma pioneer makes consistently exceptional wines and is distinguished for its commitment to the community and sustainability practices. Expect red fruits, baking spices, and fresh tannins.

2021 Naidu Wines Russian River Valley ($60) This is the first Indian immigrant, female-founded and operated winery in the United States. With a focus on single vineyard, single variety wines sustainably made using minimal intervention winemaking, this wine is sourced from their estate vineyard and the Marshall Ranch Vineyard. Expect intense cherry and plum, firm impact, an earthy, loamy note, and focused freshness.

2019 Emeritus Hallberg Ranch ($48) In 1999, after selling his iconic Sonoma–Cutrer Vineyards, Brice Cutrer Jones founded Emeritus with the singular focus on estate grown Pinot Noir. The dry farmed Hallberg Ranch in Green Valley has yielded a wine of bright red fruits, floral notes, light spice, and fine-grained tannins.

2021 Cherry Pie Huckleberry Snodgrass Vineyard ($58) Cherry Pie wines are a collection of single and multi-vineyard Pinot Noirs from top microclimates, farmed sustainably and vinified with minimal interference. This vineyard produced racy red fruits and floral notes, while the winemaking encouraged the openness and smooth tannins of the finished wine.

2021 Sonoma-Cutrer ($36) This 43-year-old winery, led by an all-female winemaking team, produces certified sustainable wines. This one is elegant with red berries, cola, savory spices, black tea, earth, and vanilla notes.

Straddling southern Napa and Sonoma, Carneros is mostly distinguished by the cooling influences of the San Pablo Bay and Pacific Ocean. Officially recognized in 1983 the region is defined not just by geology but by its unique climatic characteristics: foggy mornings and breezy, sun-soaked afternoons.

2021 Cherry Pie Toro Hills ($55) Part of the historic Donnell Ranch property located in the southwestern corner of Carneros-Sonoma County, now managed by the famed Sangiacomo family, this wine shows vibrant fruit, dried herbs, cola, mocha, and a touch of spice delivered on a rich palate.

2019 Sean Walker McBride Aisling Vineyard “Old Vine” ($42) From Napa’s Crosby Roamann winery whose single vineyard selections are released under the winemaker’s eponymous label, this is an organic Carneros-Sonoma vineyard. The Aisling Vineyard, Los Carneros, Sonoma is an organic old vine pinot noir vineyard. This wine opens with red fruits, hints of spicy pepper, clove and earthy notes.

Featured Image Courtesy of Inman Family Wines

 World class Pinot Noir is consistently available these days from various regions in California and Oregon. Because it is especially transparent of the site in which it is grown, many wineries’ best, most distinctive wines are single vineyard or estate grown expressions from the coolest sites. I have organized my recommendations by appellation and listed the wines in order of my preference within each appellation.

Each wine reflects the grape’s signature characteristics of red berry fruit, though dark fruits peak in occasionally. Earthy, mushroom, herbal and even floral, mint or anise notes also appear. Creaminess and baking spices from oak add complexity. 

Oregon’s Willamette Valley, whose Coast Range moderates the cooling Pacific Ocean and Cascade Mountains chill the desert heat of Eastern Oregon, has become Pinot Noir nirvana. Try the 2021 Archery Summit Dundee Hills ($65). Established in 1993 by the owners of Napa Valley’s Pine Ridge in one of Oregon’s most sought-after appellations, this shows lively red and black fruit accented with cocoa, minerally spice, and graceful tannins.

Mendocino County’s Anderson Valley, heavily influenced by the nearby Pacific Coast, fog-cooled hillside and mountain terrain yields wines of focus and nuance. Here are three fine examples of why this region should get more attention from consumers.

• 2019 Domaine Anderson Estate ($55) part of the Louis Roederer portfolio, blended from two certified organic vineyards; bright red fruit, enticing savory notes blended from two certified organic- vineyards.
• 2020 FEL “Savoy Vineyard” ($75) part of the Clif Lede portfolio, FEL’s home vineyard and flagship wine; notable for polished texture and silky tannins
• 2020 MacRostie “Day Ranch” ($58) vineyard on an alluvial terrace nestled against a mountainside at the coolest northern most edge of the Anderson Valley; aromatic, complex, dense, black and red fruits, new oak richness, luxurious cocoa, earth, solid backbone of acidity

The Sonoma Coast is too large and diverse an appellation – it spans the county from the wind-swept northern coast to the rolling hills of the southern dairy farms – to generalize attributes except to say most vineyards experience extremely cool Pacific winds and fog. And that many of California’s most celebrated Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are sources from Sonoma Coast vineyards and its many sub-appellations. The Freestone AVA, a sheltered, pastoral valley, is the source for the 2021 Joseph Phelps “Freestone Vineyards” ($70).  From two hillside estate vineyards, it is vibrant lively, with succulent red berries, savory spice, earth, bright acid structure.

Just to the south of Monterey, San Louis Obispo County is gaining more attention for its wine regions, including Paso Robles, Arroyo Grande and Edna Valley, which have emerged in the past two decades as world class viticultural areas. The 2020 Chamisal Estate Grown “Morrito” ($100) is from a special block of the estate hillside vineyard in the Edna Valley; it has floral aromatics, tart red fruits, and engaging mushroom accents.

The Sta. Rita Hills, in southern Santa Barbara County, is a small, transverse valley that funnels cool ocean breezes layers of marine fog over the vineyards, which are bounded by the Purisma Hills to the north and the Santa Rosa Hills to the south. It is widely considered to be the source of many of Santa Barbara’s finest Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The Hilt Estate and Alma Rosa Winery provide fine evidence of this. 

The 2021 The Hilt Estate ($50) is located in an oceanic, sun-drenched, windy corner of Sta. Rita Hills, encompassing abrupt hills, jagged peaks and fog-blanketed canyons. Sourced from estate vineyards, Radian and Bentrock, this wine reflects the various grape clones and soil types of the estate. It reveals fine red berry fruit, earth and spice tones, and powdery tannins.

Alma Rosa Winery is situated on the north-facing slopes of the Santa Rosa Hills. Founded in 2005 by Richard Sanford, the first to plant pinot noir in this area in 1971, the sustainably farmed property is now owned by Bob and Barb Zorich. Of course, they specialize in Pinot Noir but also Chardonnay and Rhone varieties. These single vineyard pinots benefit from judicious use of oak and are bottled unfined and unfiltered. 

• 2021 El Jabali ($90) Alma Rosa’s certified orgnic estate vineyard, vibrant, silky 
• 2021 Rancho La Viña ($82) located in the southwest corridor of the Sta. Rita Hills; rich dark fruits, racy acidity yet smooth texture
• 2021 La Encantada ($82) just seven miles from the ocean, organically farmed, delicate juicy fruit, bright acidity, chalky tannins, spicy finish 

NOTE: Featured image courtesy of MacRostie Vineyards.

Now that the holidays are past, I tend to look for value wines to ease my already light wallet. While that usually means budget friendly wines ideal for everyday drinking, it also can mean wines that over deliver quality for the price. Lately, I have settled on these brands as reliable options.

Métier. This is a new line of wines from DeLille Cellars, one of Washington’s best wineries. These wines are exemplary of the approachability and excellence of Washington State wine and the Columbia Valley AVA. They are designed at a more approachable price point: brisk Sauvignon Blanc ($20), intriguing Red Blend ($25), and bold Cabernet Sauvignon ($30).

J.Lohr. The J. Lohr Estates tier from this Central Coast winegrower since1974 features an extensive array of good values from certified sustainable estate grown vineyards. My current favorites are: 2022 Wildflower Valdiguié ($13) a grape with origins in France’s Languedoc, made in a Beaujolais style; the sleek 2021 Falcon’s Perch Pinot Noir ($17); and the lively 2021 Pure Paso® Proprietary Red Wine – cabernet sauvignon, petite sirah blend ($27). Among the whites, look for three 2021 Chardonnays from Monterey’s Arroyo Seco AVA – Riverstone ($14), Arroyo Vista ($25) and the single vineyard October Night ($25).

The Mill Keeper. An offshoot of Napa Valley’s Gamble Family Vineyards, Mill Keeper wines are built on long term relationships with farmers to source fruit from generational vineyards and preserve family-owned farms. The multivintage supple Cabernet Sauvignon ($26) and bright Chardonnay ($24), and crisp Bordeaux blend 2022 Rosé ($21) are fine choices.

Landmark “Overlook”. Sonoma Valley based Landmark Vineyards has been dedicated to producing handcrafted, ultra-premium wines sourcing grapes from unique vineyard sites throughout California since 1974. The “Overlook” line (2021, $27): Pinot Noir – blend of Monterey, Santa Barbara and Sonoma regions – and Chardonnay – sourced from top Sonoma County vineyards, including Petaluma Gap, Carneros and Russian River Valley.

True Myth. Located in the heart of the Central Coast, True Myth sources grapes from such fine AVAs as Paso Robles – 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon ($24) – and Edna Valley – 2022 Pinot Noir San Luis Obispo ($28). True Myth also supports the Pollinator Partnership in efforts to protect the endangered pollinators.

Textbook. We all know how expensive Napa Valley wines are but Textbook produces some fine values from Napa fruit, like its lush 2021 Chardonnay ($27) and its structured 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon ($40). And its 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles ($27) also is flavorful and appealing for the price.

Chronic Cellars. This winery is committed to showcasing the appealing quality of Paso Robles fruit with playful, eye-catching labels. Check out these 2021s ($17): the dark fruits of the Cabernet Sauvignon “Sir Real”, the power of the Petite Sirah “Suite Petite”, and the enticing 2021 Red Blend “Purple Paradise”.

NOTE: Featured image is courtesy of Textbook Vineyards.

While sparkling wine is the wine of choice for special occasions, bubbly can be enjoyed any time and on any occasion. Champagne, with its bottle fermentation method yielding impressive complexity, intensity and ability to improve with age, has become the benchmark for producers and consumers. But you likely will want a sparkler that doesn’t carry the price tag of Champagne.

Luckily, interesting, delicious and affordable sparkling wine is made just about everywhere on the planet. Often the Champagne grape varieties of pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier are used, though many experiment with other varieties. I offer several from Italy, a couple from France and several from California to give you a head start.

But it also is quite expensive and that has spurred other producers to find ways to make Champagne (also known as traditional) method bubbly at (usually) more accessible prices. Some seek to emulate Champagne so much that they use the same grape varieties (various combinations of pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier), though many experiment with other varieties. They often also produce the fizz using the same method, variously described as Méthode Champenois (Champagne Method) or Methode Traditionelle (Traditional Method).

The list below highlights traditional method wines worth seeking out. (NOTE: All are nonvintage, unless otherwise state.)

Outside of Champagne, Méthode Champenois is known as Crémant and is a fine value. Crémant De Limoux from the Languedoc region typically is distinguished with the addition of chenin blanc. The Côté Mas “M” Brut ($13) is 60% chardonnay, 20% chenin blanc, 10% pinot noir, and 10% mauzac – citrus, green apple, pear, creamy texture.

In Italy, the traditional method is known as Metodo Classico. And Franciacorta, a small region in Lombardy northeast of Milan at the foot of the Alps, sources some of the best bubbles (made mostly with chardonnay and pinot noir) outside of Champagne. Typically, these offer high energy, precise and complex moderate alcohol, silky acidity and ripe fruit. Suggestions of citrus, peach and nectarine are present, alongside, floral notes.

It also is on the forefront of sustainability practices. Corte Bianca is committed to organic growing practices, protection of biodiversity, and green building. Its 2017 Rosé Extra Brut ($48) is 80% pinot nero (noir), 20% chardonnay with a structure balanced between briskness and fullness, persistence, red berries, vanilla and mineral. sustainability principles.
The winery 1701 Franciacorta is set on a historic property but is firmly set in the present and focused on the future. Dedicated to organic practices, it also is the first certified biodynamic Franciacorta. Its 2018 “Satèn” Brut ($38) is a special type of Franciacorta produced with 100% chardonnay and softer bubbles. It is dry and fresh, with apple, orange, lemon and a salty note.

Alta Langa from southern Piedmont reportedly was Italy’s first sparkling wine, dating to the mid-1800s. Enrico Serafino, the oldest operating producer in Piedmont’s Roero region, is a leader in Alta Langa sparkling wine. In 1878, they began making Metodo Classico sparkling wines from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The 2018 “Oudeis” Brut ($30), made primarily from pinot noir for flavor and body, with 20% chardonnay for refined citrus and toasty complexity.

California also makes many fine sparkling wines. Most of the best use the traditional method and Champagne grapes pinot noir, chardonnay, pinot meunier.

Frank Family. A premier Napa Valley producer since its establishment in 1992, these wines are sourced from its acclaimed Lewis Vineyard in Carneros: 2016 Blanc de Blancs ($60), 100% chardonnay; lively citrus, delicate, rich; 2017 Brut Rosé ($60) 100% pinot noir; complex red berries, citrus, full, yet refined texture.

Laetitia. Another longtime favorite of mine. From the Arroyo Grande Valley in California’s Central Coast, these Estate grown bubbles are especially affordable. The Brut Cuvée RM ($29), 67% chardonnay, 33% pinot noir, offers apple, brioche, creamy lemon and toasty notes. The 2020 Brut Rosé RM ($29) 65% chardonnay, 35% pinot noir leans to strawberry, peach, and fresh bread.

Seppi. This is a new one to me and the wines are impressive. The debut project from Kelsey Phelps Finch, granddaughter of Napa Valley pioneer Joseph Phelps. The 2018 Blanc de Blancs ($48), 100% chardonnay, presents crisp green apple, grapefruit, toasted brioche and richness. The 2018 Brut Rosé ($52), 95% chardonnay, 5% pinot noir, shows raspberry with apple, pear and hints of baking spices.