Of course, the most important story in the world of wine in 2020 (as it was in the world and will be in 2021) was the COVID-19 pandemic. The pandemic affected every aspectof the wine industry. It shut down tasting rooms, almost eliminated sales demand from restaurants and bars and forced changes in how winery and vineyard staff work. Countless tasting events were cancelled, some were converted to virtual events, and others were scaled down to comply with public health orders.
“Pivot” became the most used word for enterprises of all kinds. In wine, switching to online sales, virtual tastings, and offering delivery and curbside pickup became necessary to survive. Expect these to continue in 2021. Overall wine sales ended up slightly, though large volume wines sold better than wines from smaller premium wineries. I do worry about retail selection being more limited, though access to online sales from smaller wineries offsets that somewhat.
Then one of the hottest summers on record brought one of the worst wildfire years on record. And shone a spotlight on the second most important wine story in 2020 – climate change. First in Australia, then America’s West Coast, especially in Oregon and Northern California, several wineries were damaged and some were destroyed, and vineyard workers were threatened, while “smoke taint” in vineyards has meant many wineries will not produce some of their wines this year.
More than 8,200 fires burned more than 4 million acres in California, more than double the previous record. In the U.S., there were 22 billion-dollar weather events, the sixth year in a row of $10+ billion-dollar weather events. The wildfires in California have been estimated to cost $5-$9 billion.
Even when the pandemic is “over”, the effects of climate change will continue. As global temperatures rise, growers are looking to higher altitudes to replace existing vineyards. Studies predict some wine regions will become incapable of the same quality within thirty years. In Bordeaux and other regions, they’re planting new grape varieties as a precaution. Scientific studies predict several wine regions will become incapable of producing the same quality in the next thirty years. More and more wineries are adopting practices to reduce their carbon footprint. Expect that to accelerate.
The debate over alcohol’s place in a healthy diet ratcheted up as a government advisory panel recommended the U.S. reduce the guidelines for men from no more than two glasses of alcohol a day to one. After a firestorm of opposition from industry, the USDA’s new dietary guidelines retained the existing definition of moderate alcohol consumption. The debate will continue, though. As will the debate over wine labeling, even as a majority of consumers support putting ingredient and nutritional information on the bottle.
If there wasn’t enough disruption already, the U.S. dramatically increasedtariffsagainst the European Union(notably French, German and Spanish non-sparkling wines) in 2019, and expanded tariffs in 2020 causing imports to the U.S. to drop considerably and cost many jobs. Europe responded by increasing sales to China. Needless to say, the industry hopes the new administration ends the tariffs.
The wine world also was not isolated from the social movements of the year. The Black Lives Matter protests and scandal at the Court of Master Sommeliers brought increased attention to the lack of diversity and revelations of sexual harassment and assault in the hospitality industry. It’s too soon to tell but there have been encouraging signs in the wine trade, restaurants and bars are beginning to take a serious look at racism and sexism within their own ranks.
All of these matters will still be at issue in 2021. What’s clear is that there will be no return to “normal”; maybe a new normal or several new normals; but there is no going back. And that is as it should be. Long standing assumptions were challenged. We learned a lot in 2020 (let’s hope it sticks). And hopefully perseverance and change will be the watch words for 2021.
So, maybe you got a gift card or some cash over the holidays and you decide to treat yourself to an exceptional wine – something for a special occasion, a bottle you’ve always wanted but couldn’t afford, or maybe something that says “good riddance 2020; let’s get 2021 off to a better start”. The following suggestions are the best wines I tasted this year that I haven’t already reviewed.
Your first impulse may be to pick up a highly coveted Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
2017 Spottswoode St. Helena Family Estate Grown ($225) While this estate dates to 1882, it has been producing wine under the current ownership since 1982. Notably, it was one of the first wineries to convert to organic growing in 1985 and has built a system of sustainability that also includes biodynamic methods. Now, Spottwoode’s estate Cabernet Sauvignon is consistently ranked as one of the most respected and sought-after Napa Cabs. This wine meets expectations with depth and concentration balanced with finesse and elegance. There is a layered complexity of multiple dark fruits, spices and herbs presented with dynamic energy that glides along a fine-grained texture.
2017 Chappellet Hideaway Vineyard ($125) Producing highly prized wines since 1967, especially Cabernet Sauvignon from its Pritchard Hill Estate, Hideaway is a single vineyard wine from secluded, rocky slopes of the estate. Luxurious oak is integrated nicely with forceful dark berries and mocha and tobacco notes. Its satiny palate ensures all this complexity coheres with grace and harmony.
2017 Turnbull Oakville Reserve ($85) Established in the heart of the Napa Valley in 1979, Turnbull has intentionally remained small and focused on Bordeaux varieties, especially cabernet sauvignon. This wine is fashioned from two estate vineyards in the Oakville appellation. It deftly balances intense dark fruits with a graceful texture. Rich fruit is complimented with woodsy notes and luscious oak.
Kendall-Jackson Stature Sonoma County ($100) Stature showcases the pinnacle of Kendall-Jackson winemaking with grapes that are estate sourced from the mountains, hillsides and ridges of Alexander Valley and Knights Valley. Featuring intense dark berry notes delivered on velvety tannins, this plush wine offers notes of tobacco, underbrush, sweet oak, chocolate and licorice leading to a nice, long finish.
2016 Duckhorn The Discussion ($155) This conversation among cabernet sauvignon (55 percent), merlot (43 percent), cabernet franc and petit verdot (one percent each) from the best lots of Duckhorn’s six best estate vineyards is rich, structured and concentrated, yet graceful with inviting oak and savory accents. Though it is drinking nicely with integrated tannins, additional time will allow its elements to resolve into a to fine consensus.
Looking to Europe, here are three Italian stars and a French luminary:
2016 Pio Cesare Barolo ($82) This family-owned producer since 1881in the Alba commune of Piemonte takes care to shape a classic interpretation of Barolo from its nebbiolo vineyards. This offering, an estate blend from five communes in the Barolo zone, is an excellent representation of the nature of Barolo with brisk acidity and firm tannins, yet elegance and bright fruit. It is enticingly fragrant and offers deep, dark fruit with mint and smoky notes. Well-integrated tannins deliver acidity and intensity. Is there such a thing as restrained richness?
2015 Castiglion del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino ($70) This estate in the Montalcino zone of Tuscany is notable for its history (dates to the 12th century) and its size (5,000 acres including forest, resort and golf course). It has been owned by Massimo Ferragamo (of the shoe and fashion dynasty) since in 2003. The estate employs natural viticulture in growing the native sangiovese and has now been certified organic. The wine shows precise and energetic fruit balanced with a sense of richness as its intensity glides smoothly over the palate. It reveals complex herbs and spices and finishes with fine, dusty tannins.
2015 Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino ($80) Established in 1978 with the purchase of the medieval Castello Poggio alle Mura (which dates to at least 1438) and subsequently neighboring properties, its American owners restored the castello and have transformed the property into a leading producer of Brunello. Today, production is organic and the estate has been recognized for its environmental, ethical and social responsibility initiatives. This wine features bright red fruits, with almond, licorice, tobacco and spice notes. Its intensity glides on a silky texture finishing tight and long.
2017 Domaine des Tourettes Hermitage ($99) This northern Rhône estate is owned by producer Delas Frères, which dates to 1835. The Domaine des Tourettes Hermitage is the first wine to be produced exclusively from the estate’s vineyard farmed on the famous hill that overlooks the town of Tain-l’Hermitage. A blend of wines from three specially selected plots, this full-bodied cuvée offers intensely vibrant red fruit, with typically meaty, smoky, lightly peppery notes. A creamy palate reveals tannic grip.
If there ever was a reason to celebrate one year ending and a new year beginning, this is it. Several bottles over. From Argentina, California, France, Italy and Oregon, here’s good riddance to 2020 and a hopeful welcome to 2021.
Argentina. Domaine Bousquet Brut Pinot Noir/Chardonnay ($13). A pioneer in Tupungato, the highest district in the Uco Valley sub-region of Mendoza, Bousquet also is notable for its commitment to sustainable farming and organic production. All wines are 100 percent certified organic. This one is full of fresh apple, pear and cherry.
California. Frank Family Vineyards in Napa Valley has produced sparkling wine since its founding in 1993, continuing the tradition of the previous owner Hanns Kornell Champagne Cellars, which occupied the historic winery building (the original Larkmead Winery) from 1958 to 1992. The 2015 Brut Rosé ($55), with 90 percent pinot noir and 10 percent chardonnay, reveals pretty strawberry and cherry flavors gliding on a creamy palate. The 2016 Rouge ($55) despite more chardonnay (27 percent) and less pinot noir (73 percent), is ruby red as it experiences greater skin contact. It is vibrant, rich and creamy, with fresh acidity.
Sosie Wines is located in the Bennett Valley of Sonoma County, a geography that funnels cooling Pacific air inland. Sosie emphasizes a French winemaking style to achieve precision and finesse in their wines. The winery has produced two unique, intriguing sparklers featuring Rhone varieties. The 2018 “First Things First” ($30) is made from roussanne. Very dry, it displays crisp stone fruits wrapped in brioche. It is barrel fermented with native yeast and full malolactic fermentation to achieve a delightful creaminess. The 2018 “A Moment of Weakness” Sparkling Red ($35) is 100 percent syrah and reveals dark berries and plums, with baking spice.
Not surprisingly, the sparkling wine from Sea Smoke, a highly regarded Pinot Noir specialist is 100 percent pinot noir. From sustainable and biodynamic estate vineyards in Santa Barbara’s Santa Rita Hills, the 2015 “Sea Spray” Blanc de Noirs is another crisp, dry succulent wine. Fresh strawberries mix with brown butter in this energetic, complex bubbly.
France. Billecart-Salmon, founded in 1818, has produced a unique cuvée, which is entirely vinified in oak and composed of the three Champagne varieties – pinot nor, chardonnay, and pinot meunier – in equal proportions. The Brut Sous Bois ($80) shows a dramatic bouquet of citrus, cherry and butter and a harmonious expression of citrus and pear coupled with a creamy mouthfeel. As the name suggests, there also is a complimentary earthy component.
Italy. Foamy, fruity Prosecco from northeastern Italy has emerged in recent years as Italy’s go-to valuebollicine (bubbles). Adami, one of the best producers, is known for pioneering single vineyard Prosecco. Its distinctive production methods of giving the wines extended lees contact after initial fermentation and conducting the second fermentation in small batches throughout the year, instead of in one large batch shortly after harvest. Four recent releases illustrate the results:
“Garbèl” Treviso Brut ($17) dry, crisp and tart with lemon and pear;
“Bosco di Gica” Valdobbiadene Superiore Brut ($20) bottled with a touch of residual sugar, which lends body rather than sweetness to the palate, offers uplifting foam, brisk citrus with round texture, and tangy finish;
2019 “Col Credas” Valdobbiadene Rive di Farra di Soligo Extra Brut ($23) over nine years in development, it is very dry clean, refreshing and elegant with exotic fruit;
2018 “Vigneto Giardino” Valdobbiadene Rive di Colbertaldo Asciutto ($23) is from the family’s first vineyard (purchased in 1920) and in 1933 the first single-vineyard Prosecco ever made; it is fruity, focused and intense with a hint of anise. “Asciutto” means dry.
Although Piemonte in Italy’s northwest is most famous for its red wines – Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera, etc. – the region also excels with spumante. Enrico Serafino, established in the Roero district 140 years ago, produces fine reds but is best known as a specialist in the production of high quality Metodo Classico (referring to the Champagne Method). One the winery’s best is the 2016 “Oudeis” Alta Langa Brut DOCG ($28), made with chardonnay and pinot nero. Itis a fantastic value with dramatic apple, yeasty notes, and impressive structure.
Oregon. Since 1987, Argyle has been one Oregon’s top Pinot Noir and Chardonnay producers and arguably, the state’s best sparkling wine maker. Among its impressive portfolio, the 2016 Blanc de Noirs ($35), mostly pinot noir and a touch of pinot meunier from the Willamette Valley’s Eola-Amity Hills district. Its delightfully fresh and precise red berry fruit, savory notes and creamy texture a just the ticket.
It’s always a good idea to support local businesses. And “buy local” has become a popular outcry in recent years. While it is most common in arts and crafts and especially in food, it also is relevant for beer, wine and spirits. And especially with the economic challenges caused by the pandemic, it is even more important to support these small businesses. Since this is a wine column and I am based in Colorado, I am suggesting Colorado wine for the holidays this year.
Colorado has a burgeoning wine industry (over 130 businesses) that is growing in national recognition. “Colorado wine is a fine choice for holiday meals, particularly the crisp, dry Rieslings or Tempranillo and some Italian varieties that would be a great red option for the bird. And of course, Cabernet Franc for roast beef or lamb,” said Doug Caskey, executive director of the Colorado Wine Industry Development Board.
And, of course, think Colorado when looking for a holiday wine gift. Many wine shops in the state carry Colorado wine and many of the wineries have holiday gift offerings, whether individual bottles or special packages. A few of my favorites include Bookcliff Vineyards, Creekside Cellars and Bonacquisti. Most wineries have online sales available on their own websites which you can link to from www.coloradowine.com.
A special choice is The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey in Canyon City about two hours south of Denver, has many options worth perusing. You can purchase individual bottles but the winery offers a 15 percent case discount on most of their wines (assortments permitted) and 10 percent off six bottles. A special offering for the season is 20 percent off bottles of Riesling. You can choose from their full line of wines, including special releases like Divinity and Vineyard Sunset and exclusive bottlings, such as – Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and the flagship Revelation red wine blend – also are offered, although discounts are not available for these. They also are offering $15 shipping on orders over $125. You can choose by the bottle or cradled in a branded wooden gift box for an extra charge. Check out them out at https://abbeywinery.com.
The website also has numerous non-wine items available. A favorite is the set of 100% Extra Virgin Arbequina Olive Oil and Balsamic vinegar. Aged in Juniper and cypress barrels for up to eighteen years, the corrugated gift set ($47.50) contains olive oil, balsamic vinegar, seasoning mix, and a Portuguese hand-painted dipping dish.
I also have for you two good options from California wineries with a Colorado connection.
How about an opening to a new world of winemaking and wine photography with a gift from Aperture Cellars? Founded in 2009 in Sonoma County by winemaker and Boulder native Jesse Katz with his father, world famous photographer Andy Katz, each wine label features an original Andy Katz photograph. Andy is one of the most sought-after wine country photographers in the world, though his portfolio ranges beyond wine.
Jesse has said he prefers Sonoma County, especially its cool sites, because it offers the best of both worlds: new world fruit and old world elegance. I would describe his winemaking approach as allowing the energy the soil has translated into the grapes to shine through his wines just as a camera’s aperture allows light to shine through.
For someone not even forty years old yet, Jesse has an impressive list of accomplishments. His father brought him on visits to the most famous vineyards around the world. He got to experience wine as part of the food and cultural experience. Since graduating Fresno State, he traveled California and the world getting experience, including work at Chateau Petrus, Fess Parker, Screaming Eagle, Lancaster Estate and more. He also has made wine for Von Miller, and Justin Timberlake and Jessica Biel.
Cabernet Sauvignon is Aperture’s signature wine but what he calls the “Soil Series” also includes a Bordeaux Red Blend, and a Barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc, and Chenin Blanc. The “Site Series” offers single vineyard wines.
Aperture wines are available at select locations in Colorado, including retailers: and restaurants. The wines and special gift options also are available at the website (https://aperture-cellars.com).
And how about wine from Denver Broncos iconic quarterback John Elway? 7Cellars was founded by Elway and his business partner, along with Napa winemaker Rob Mondavi, Jr. about seven years ago. Now, 7Cellars has expanded with a new portfolio – The Farm Collection – created in collaboration with ONEHOPE Winery. The line of three varietal wines (2018 vintage retails for $19) celebrates Elway’s college days (“The Farm’ is the knickname for Stanford University) and is intended to be more approachable (in price and drinkability) than Elway’s Reserve wines.
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The 2018 Chardonnay is sourced from Arroyo Seco, the 2018 Pinot Noir from Monterey, and the 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso Robles. If you cannot find the wines in local shops, they can be purchased online at www.7cellars.com. There also is a three-bottle magnetic gift box for $110. And for each bottle purchased, 7Cellars makes a donation to Team Rubicon, a nonprofit organization that supports, trains and deploys U.S. veterans on disaster relief missions around the world. To date, more than 5,870 veterans have been supported through sales of 7Cellars wines.
Finally, if you are looking ahead to getting back out on the road in the coming months and have wine country in mind, again I suggest you keep it local. A nice guide is the recently released The Wines of Southwest U.S.A.($40).
In the book, author Jessica Dupuy presents a useful hand book to the wines and wineries of Colorado, Arizona, New Mexico, and Texas. In each chapter, she covers the history, climate, wine producing regions, and the challenges each state wine industry face the future. Of course, there are highlights of key wineries that shouldn’t be missed. Each chapter also concludes with welcome recommendations for where to eat and stay. This book would make a fine gift for any wine country traveler.
Despite a period early this century when its reputation took a hit, merlot is one of the most widely planted grape varieties in the world. It is the second most planted variety in the United States and the fourth most planted red variety in California. And Merlot is third in U.S. sales of California red wines after Cabernet Sauvignon and Red Blends.
Merlot wine can be mistaken for its sibling Cabernet Sauvignon. The major difference is that it tends to present a softer texture and rounder mouthfeel. Expect cherry and blueberry fruit and herbal, sometimes chocolatey notes.
It can produce Cabernet-like quality usually at more reasonable prices. And I did find several good values for this report. I also found the world-class quality one would expect at higher prices. Like Cabernet, the best wines are full, rich, featuring dark fruits and solid structure, often with savory or baking spice elements, balancing power, elegance, and complexity. All wines are listed in order of my preference, regardless of price.
Three Palms Vineyard, Calistoga, Napa Valley
2017 Duckhorn Three Palms Vineyard ($110) Considered by many California’s premier Merlot producer for the last 40 years. From the storied vineyard on the Napa Valley floor, this wine offers layers of succulent black cherry with toast, herbs and spice balanced with sweet oak. It is focused and rich but structured to develop well over the next several years.
2017 Chappellet Napa Valley ($45) This maker of some of Napa’s most prized Cabs, also excels with Merlot. Expect plump cherry, blackberry, vanilla, cocoa, and herbaceous accents, in a rich, seamless frame, with firming tannins.
2017 Duckhorn Rector Creek Vineyard ($100) This vineyard along Napa’s Silverado Trail, shows blueberry, baking spice, and a vanilla core. Structured but elegant. Should age well.
2016 Northstar Columbia Valley ($41) Washington state’s Merlot specialist; plump black cherry, cocoa notes, baking spice, herbs; presents as elegant and refined.
2017 Duckhorn Atlas Peak ($78) High-elevation vineyards yield concentrated dark fruits, with vanilla, spice and rich, silky tannins.
2016 St. Supéry Napa Valley Estate Vineyard ($50) Opens with a sense of sweet blueberry and blackberry; cocoa, oak and spice accent a lush but firm texture.
2017 Duckhorn Carneros ($78) With fruit from the famousnHyde and Hudson vineyards, this shows bright cherry and raspberry, wrapped in vanilla, with a hint of spice.
2017 Ehlers Napa Valley Estate ($55) Dark berries, lightly spicy and minty, shows admirable depth and richness, with fine-grained tannins.
2017 Duckhorn Napa Valley ($56) Fresh dark cherry and plum, touch of toasty oak and spice, sense of firmness but supple and elegant.
2017 Rutherford Hill Atlas Peak ($60) From a California Merlot pioneer; deep cherry, pretty vanilla, and herbal notes open lean but fill out and close as a deeply fruity wine.
2018 Barnett Vineyards Spring Mountain ($70) Juicy cherry and blueberry, followed by woody, earthy notes; fresh but soft, stewed fruit and anise flavors close.
Finally, four solid values for every day:
The Napa Valley fruit of 2017 Markham ($29) is juicy and supple, with a sense of concentration.
Alexander Valley fruit gives the 2018 Chelsea Goldschmidt “Guidestone Rise” ($22) juicy blue and black fruit, hints of creamy and minty oak, and accessible, refreshing texture.
Sonoma County grapes supply the flavorful red fruit of the softly fresh 2018 Decoy ($25).
The bright red berries of the lush 2018 Selby ($24) are accented with savory notes.
Originally published in the Colorado Spring Gazette on November 18, 2020.
While cabernet sauvignon, merlot and pinot noir dominate red wine sales in the U.S. and most other markets, what are referred to as Rhône varieties – especially grenache, syrah and mourvèdre – can produce quality that rivals and often surpasses the big three.
Grenache is the preferred variety in Southern Rhône, as it adapts well to the range of soils and growing conditions in the area and is the prime grape in the fine blends ofChâteauneuf-du-Pape. It is chock full of currant and red fruit flavors and contributes body and finesse.
Syrah is the star of Northern Rhône, producing the great wines of Hermitage andCôte-Rôtie. It is characterized by complex notes of dark fruits, herbs and spice. Low in acidity and high in tannins, it acts as a balancing force for the blend.
Mourvèdre makes a fine companion to grenache and syrah in the blended wines of the region. It usually contributes smaller percentages, except for the wines of Bandol. It provides deep color, structure and an array of flavors including blueberry, blackberries and herbs, black pepper and smoke.
These wines are often quite expensive. So, I suggest you try “Côtes du Rhône” for an affordable introduction. The red blends must be comprised of a minimum of 30% grenache, and grenache, syrah and mourvèdre are required to make up at least 70% of the blend. This allows winemakers to express their diverse terroir while showcasing their expertise and creating a consistent style.
2017 J.L. Chave Sélection “Mon Coeur” ($22). Wine growers in the northern Rhône since 1481, Chave Hermitage, both rouge (syrah) and blanc (marsanne), are considered by many to be the epitome of such wines. Jean-Louis Chave Selections, the négociant line that sources grapes from various areas in the northern Rhône, represents a more accessible way for the consumer to experience the wines of the Chave family. “Mon Coeur” is a blend of half estate and half purchased organically grown grapes, with 60 percent grenache. As with all things Chave, quality – cherry compote, savory notes, touches of anise and earth – is eminent even at the entry level.
2017 Ferraton “Samorëns” ($16). A producer-négociant founded in 1946 that has pioneered estate-bottled wines in the Rhône; with 85 percent grenache, this blend shows nice red fruits, with hints of leather, earth cinnamon, and tea notes, and silky tannins.
2016 Domaine St. Gayan ($16) based in the Southern Rhone appellation of Gigondas and notable for wines from very old vines (some up to 100 years in age); with 75 percent grenache it reveals a depth, richness and complexity not often found at this level.
2017 Jean-Luc Colombo Les Abeilles ($14). From one of the premier producers in the northern appellation of Cornas, this is open and round in mouthfeel with cherry and plum preserves, vanilla and anise.
2016 Celliers des Dauphins Reserve ($15). Essentially a grower’s cooperative created in 1967 as the Union of Côtes du Rhône winegrowers bringing together 2,300 winemaking families in the southern Rhône Valley; with 60 percent grenache, it reveals bright berries, dark forest and pepper.
And I had a bit of a ringer in my Côtes du Rhône tasting, a 2017 Ferraton “La Matinière” Crozes-Hermitage ($26). A 100 percent syrah wine from the northern Rhône, this wine is a fine value and can be thought of as a more approachable (in terms of early drinking and price) alternative to the more complex and expensive Hermitage. Its crisp, generous dark fruits are offset with earthy accents, including pepper, smoke, leather, and mineral delivered in a velvety mouthfeel.
The California Rhône style wines in my tasting, though all in a significantly higher price range, provide a useful comparison. In general, they can be characterized as displaying deeper, riper fruit, while staying true to varietal character.
2015 Ramey Syrah Rodgers Creek Vineyard ($65). Best known for great Chardonnays, Ramey also produces fine red wines, including this impressive single vineyard Syrah from a vineyard in the sought after Petaluma Gap area of Sonoma Coast. Made with 8 percent viognier following a common practice in Hermitage, it deftly balances ripe, fresh and generous berries and dark plum withsavory elements of chocolate, pepper, licorice and earth. It’s focused but has soft tannins and a rich texture.
2016 Mi Sueno Syrah Napa Valley ($55). From a husband and wife team with a resume that includes making wine for and supplying grapes to some of California’s most prestigious wineries; expect a full, rich, wine of intense black fruits, with peppery, meaty accents and firm tannins.
Bootleg, a brand that emphasizes crafting wines without constraint from a specific varietal, appellation, or winemaking tradition, produces two red wine blends: “Red Blend”, which combines Napa Valley sources, and “Prequel”, which focuses on Sonoma County fruit. The varieties in each blend change from year to year but both contain significant amounts of syrah and petite sirah. These are exuberant, bold wines for those who prefer an opulent style.
The 2016 Red Blend ($38) adds merlot to the blend and deftly balances structure, and finesse, with bright red fruit, oaky and earthy notes, with a fresh, full texture. The 2016 Prequel ($35) – 85 percent syrah and 15 percent petite sirah – is a luscious wine of refreshing dark berries, complimented with black pepper, woodsy and toasty oak, drinking with velvety tannins.
For some reason, it seems California Sauvignon Blanc has often been an afterthought with consumers. Not only does it consistently play second fiddle in popularity to Chardonnay, it seems there is always a new fave that steals consumer’s attention – Pinot Grigio, even New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc – even if only for a limited time.
But that may be changing. Growers and winemakers are taking the grape more seriously and quality has improved even as more offerings are available. And people who watch these kinds of things say consumer interest is ticking up. This is good news as there arguably is more good California Sauvignon Blanc on the market than ever.
The grape has a noble heritage as a parent (with cabernet franc) of cabernet sauvignon. It is responsible for the Loire Valley wines of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé and, with semillon, the white Bordeaux of Graves and Sauternes. The grape also has found hospitable surroundings in New Zealand, South Africa, Australia, and Chile.
Its flavor profile comes in several styles, though it’s usually assertively aromatic, with refreshing acidity. Generally, expect brisk green citrus (lime, gooseberry) but also other citrus, especially grapefruit, and a distinctive (sometimes spicy) herbaceousness. Some also are evocative of fresh cut hay or grass. Wines made from riper fruit often display melon, nectarine or peach, or even tropical fruits.
While growers are paying more attention to where and how the grape is planted, winemakers are employing creative approaches in the cellar. Usually most of a wine is fermented and aged in stainless steel to emphasize fresh, varietal characteristics but occasionally some of the wine is conditioned with time in other containers, like oak.
I found a number of “good values” around $20 and under. These tend to be lighter with the focus on varietal fruit but all display the grape’s trademark refreshing character. Think of them as everyday go-tos.
2019 Bonterra California ($14) made with organic grapes; vibrant citrus and stone fruit, subtle hint of grass
2019 Rodney Strong Charlotte’s Home Sonoma County ($17) apple and tropical fruit, lean and spicy
2019 Imagery California ($20) a value driven brand from the Benziger family; tropical and grapefruit, herbal
As consumer friendly as these wines are, I found more complexity and flavor interest as prices escalated.
2019 Ehler’s Estate St. Helena ($32) certified organic vineyard, aged sur lie (lees stirring) in stainless drums; succulent, citrus, full-bodied, savory, crisp
2018 Robert Mondavi “Fumé” Napa Valley ($24) the wine that first drew consumer attention to sauvignon blanc about 55 years ago; barrel fermented and aged sur lie with 13 percent Semillon; succulent lemon-lime, fresh, juicy, herbal notes
2018 The Paring Santa Ynez Valley ($25) a project of the owners of Jonata and The Hilt wines (same as the owners of the Denver Nuggets and Colorado Avalanche); aged in 1/3 new French oak, 1/3 neutral French, 1/3 stainless steel; vibrant, tropical fruit, fruity, anise
2019 Clockwise Russian River Valley ($30) from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir specialist MacRostie and vineyards farmed by the respected Dutton family; sauvignon musquéclone; mix of oak and stainless; tangy citrus and stone fruits, plush
2019 Acumen Mountainside ($30) winery focused on Napa Valley hillside vineyards makes this wine from Dry Creek Valley hillside vineyards; 67 percent in neutral oak, 33 percent in stainless steel; piercing citrus, herbs and fresh hay, spicy
2019 Ram’s Gate Carneros Estate ($38) 10 percent new French oak, 70 percent neutral barrels, 20 percent stainless steel; juicy tropical fruit, hint of pepper
In recent years, an elite of wines of exceptional character has emerged to the point where well-known wine author Karen MacNeill has coined the term “Super Sauvignons”. These wines may benefit from the use of several types of fermenting and aging vessels –concrete tanks, new and used oak, stainless steel barrels, and amphorae – for fermentation, along with practices such as lees stirring to build complexity and texture.
The wines below share a complex profile of bright, ripe fruit, mineral savory notes, and sophisticated, rich textures. And they are cellar worthy. Notably, each winery below is from the Napa Valley.
2019 Spottswoode ($42) combines 2/3 Napa fruit and 1/3 Sonoma fruit, elevated with a combination of French oak, small stainless steel barrels, a clay amphora, and one ceramic and two concrete tanks; balances textural vibrancy and richness, with structure and complexity
2018 Acumen PEAK Atlas Peak Estate ($75) from high altitude Attelas Vineyard, lees stirring; intense citrus and stone fruit, minerals and spicy herbs, oaky richness, supple yet stimulating
2019 Turnbull “Josephine” Oakville ($50) aged in French oak barrels, concrete and amphorae; tropical fruit, lush textyre, stony notes, perky structure
2018 Cuvaison Méthode Béton Carneros Estate Grown ($40) the “method” is aging on the lees in concrete eggs (bétons); crisp, persistent, intense, juicy lemon/lime, graceful, yet structured, grassy
NOTE: Wines are listed in order of preference within each category but all are recommended.
In this column I introduce you to a few of the wines from two regions less known to American consumers. Both produce (mostly dry) Riesling wines that can equal the quality from Germany. Both also produce remarkable wine wines from other, even lessen known white varieties.
Bordering Switzerland and Germany, Alsace is known primarily for its fresh, aromatic white wines. Riesling, gewurztraminer, and pinot gris comprise over half of all production. They display finesse with a solid structure in a range of styles: dry, off-dry and occasionally dessert.
Alsatian Rieslings are distinguished with attractive, pure aromas, fresh green apple and citrus fruit, steely or mineral notes. Typically, the wines carry more weight than their German cousins but the aromatics and acidity are just as bracing.
Get an introduction with the 2016 Mittnacht “Les Fossiles” ($20) – from a family-run estate founded in 1958 and an early pioneer of the biodynamic winemaking movement – for its distinctive paraffin aroma and tangy tangerine fruit; and the fresh, easy drinking, stony edged 2016 Paul Blanck ($16), a producer that traces its history to the 17th century and also focuses on sustainability.
I have to say, though, I am especially attracted to Alsatian Gewürztraminer. While the variety (which translates to “spicy traminer”) originated in the foothills of the Italian Alps near the city of Tramin in the Alto Adige, the most and most prized Gewürztraminer is produced in Alsace. Quite special and unique, it is a great value and pairs nicely with foods such as Thai, Indian, Middle Eastern North African, Asian and Latin American.
I love the unique heady aromas, flavors and textures. The most prominent aroma is lychee, while others have noted tropical, honeydew and grapefruit, rose, ginger, honey, and especially a piquancy often associated with spices like cinnamon. In the mouth it presents with a creamy, unctuous texture along with more body than the typical white wine, even Chardonnay or Viognier. Even though mostly dry, there usually is a sense of mild sweetness but it will be balanced with good acidity.
Get acquainted with the precise, medium-sweet intensity and subtle spiciness of the 2015 Agathe Bursin “Dirstelberg” ($19), a rich, well-structured wine from a winemaker who was born into a family of vintners and established her own small winery in 2000. Or try the exceptional, medium bodied, off-dry, wonderfully rich 2015 Albert Boxler ($32). The Boxler family has been involved in wine since 1673 and have bottled estate wines since 1946. All the vineyards are farmed organically.
Austrian wines arguably are even less familiar to American consumers, though wine has been made there for two millennia. But that is starting to change. Conveniently, most of the best wines come from regions that straddle the Danube River, particularly Lower Austria (Niederösterreich). With dramatic improvements over the last few decades, the wines are distinguished for zesty, fruity, elegant qualities.
Riesling has been grown in Austria at least since the 1700s but only recently has begun to establish a reputation with today’s consumers for quality wines. Almost always dry, they are notable as taut and exuberant, with fresh, fruity citrus, peach and apricot accented with stony traces.
The 2017 Cobenzl “Ried Preussen” 1ÖTW ($24), from a premier single vineyard in Nussberg just outside of Vienna and from a winery owned by the city of Vienna, is precise, refreshing and juicy. The 2017 Schauer Kitzeck-Sausal ($30), from a vineyard near Austria’s southern mountains, is aromatic, brilliant, and lively with an herbal tinge. Kitzeck is the central settlement in the Sausal mountain range in Southern Styria (Südsteiermark) on Austria’s southern border and one of the highest altitude winegrowing areas in central Europe.
But Austria’s signature and most widely planted grape is grüner veltliner. It produces an assertive, steely, rich, dry white with a unique piquant aroma and flavor, usually associated with lime (though other citrus and stone fruits can make an appearance), white pepper, and herbs.
There were four good examples in my tasting:
2018 Proidl “Freiheit” ($19). Making wine in Senftenberg in the Kremstal since 1738, Freiheit means freedom and signals this wine comes from some of the first privately owned vineyard land in the region not controlled by the Church or a feudal estate. It offers a touch of white pepper and pleasant juiciness, while remaining light on its feet.
2018 Pollerhof “Phelling” ($24). From a single vineyard near Roschitz in the Weinviertel in the north-east corner of the country about five miles from the Czech border; it is elegant, fresh, fruity and focused, with a touch of minerality and a slight spritz.
2017 Fritsch “Ried Mordthal” 1ÖTW ($29). Located in the community of Oberstockstall-Kirchberg in the Lower Austrian wine growing region of Wagram, Fritsch is a practitioner of biodynamic viticulture. This first class single vineyard wine shows intense, slightly sweet fruit, with stony, herbal notes fruity; it is invigorating yet luscious.
2017 Tegernseerhof “Bergdistel” Smaragd ($33). Sourced from several vineyards around the winery’s base in Dürnstein in the Wachau (only an hour from Vienna), Smaragd indicates the highest classification of ripeness of the grapes typically yielding weightier more complex and richly textured wines. This one displays more tropical fruit with white pepper and herbal touches in an expansive yet nicely defined palate of juicy acidity.
Since most of us still can’t travel to any of the destinations we would like. I’ve decided to craft a world tour wine values as a temporary replacement.
Let’s start our tour with stops in South America’s two best known wine countries – a red wine from Argentina and a white wine from Chile.
Argentina’s Mendoza is its signature wine region. The dramatic high-altitude landscape at the foot of the Andes Mountains births many world class Malbecs and even more fine everyday Malbecs and some that combine both qualities into one bottle. Imagine this backdrop as you enjoy the half malbec with syrah and cabernet sauvignon 2018 Domaine Bousquet “Gaia” Red Blend ($20). A pioneer in Tupungato, the highest district in the Uco Valley sub-region of Mendoza, Bousquet also is notable for its commitment to organic production.
Next, we pass over the Andes to Chile whose wine growing regions are surrounded by the Andes to the east, the Pacific Ocean to the west, the Atacama Desert to the north and ancient glaciers to the south. Visualize this as you sip the 2017 Cono Sur “Bicicleta” Viognier Reserva ($12), a surprisingly tasty wine from an unexpected grape grown in unexpected soil.
Then, we fly over the Pacific Ocean to New Zealand and on to South Africa.
Geographically, New Zealand’s wine regions, like the country, are divided between the functionally named North Island and South Island. Our tour takes us to the South Island. Here, Sauvignon Blanc, especially from the Marlborough district at the north end of the island, has become New Zealand’s most popular wine. The distinctive heady profile of wines from here is dominated by things green – namely gooseberry, lime, herbs, even fresh grass – and sometimes a hint of pepper. Picture yourself cruising the Marlborough Sounds viewing winding coastline while quaffing the 2018 Spy Valley ($20) makes quite an impression with bracing acidity and bright fruit flavors lemongrass, intense or the 2019 White Cliff Winemakers Selection ($16) decent intensity and length.
Pinot Noir, especially from the Central Otago district at the south end of the South Island, has emerged as New Zealand’s signature red wine. Conjure the district’s mountains near Queenstown or the ocean from Dunedin as you savor the 2018 Loveblock Pinot Noir ($30). It’s bright red fruit, baking spice accents and good concentration, is a good example of why this area has become a benchmark. Industry veterans Kim and Erica Crawford established this artisan winery following the sale of their Kim Crawford brand.
Now, it is on to South Africa where the wine industry is poised to take its place on the world stage.
Most South African wine is produced in the Western Cape region, with Cape Town, South Africa’s oldest settlement as its main city. Bordered by the Atlantic and Indian oceans, the region features incredible views of water to the south and mountains to the north. First up is the organic 2019 Aslina Sauvignon Blanc ($19). Made by owner Ntsiki Biyela, the first black woman winemaker in South Africa, this is a wine – herbal, succulent, vibrant – that can rival the best from New Zealand.
Bosman Family Vineyards
Right now, though, Chenin Blanc arguably is the country’s most successful white wine. South Africa has more plantings of Chenin Blanc than any other wine-producing region (including its home in France’s Loire Valley) – in fact, more than the rest of the world combined! It is my choice for most the distinctive South African white wine. From the Paarl district north of Cape Town, conjure the nearby slopes of the Simonsberg Mountains as you relish the fresh citrus, nectarine and stone fruit of the 2019 Bosman “Generation 8” ($25) or the melon and citrus of the 2019 Backsberg Estate ($14).
Heading north, we journey to the Iberian Peninsula where we will enjoy wines from Portugal and Spain.
For our tour of Portugal we will enjoy wines from Symington Family Estates, one of the most prestigious wine companies in the country. Their home base is in the striking Douro River Valley, home to the famous Port wines. Evoke the winding river lined with steep terraced vineyards as you imbibe the 2015 Dow’s Late Bottled Vintage Port ($24). Think of it as Vintage Port in style, but not in price. Ready to drink upon release, it can give you a taste of Vintage Port character at a much more affordable price. I especially enjoyed its heady aromas and flavors of sweet berries, cassis, and oak, and a touch of licorice in a full-bodied, lush wine balanced with modest tannins.
Touriga Nacional vines at Quinta da Perdiz
But Portugal has long been a premier source of fine table wine values. For instance, the 2017 Vale do Bomfim ($13) is a “go to” value wine for me. Made with fruit – touriga nacional and touriga franca – from vineyards that supply Dow’s Ports, it suggests dark plum followed by peppery and stony notes and drinks rather firm and full. Under the Prats + Symington label, the 2017 Post Scriptum de Chryseia ($27), also mostly touriga nacional and touriga franca, is more expensive but a lot more wine. It reveals structured but animated fruit matched with fine tannins. It is an earlier drinking version of the flagship Chryseia wine.
The Alentejo in southern Portugal also is gaining popularity for improved quality and value and for the focus on local grape varieties. And the Symington’s new Quinta Fonte Souto estate in the Portalegre sub-region east of Lisbon has made a big splash with its inaugural releases. Since ‘souto’ refers to the large forested area including a chestnut grove on the property, consider that while you enjoy the aromatic, fruity, creamy yet crisp 2018 “Branco” ($25) – 75 percent arinto/25 percent Verdelho – and the 2017 “Tinto” ($25), mostly alicante bouschet and trincadeira, for its concentrated currants with a lush texture and savory notes.
Nearby Spain has one of the world’s most expansive wine cultures with notable vineyard areas and distinctive native grapes reflecting enormous wine diversity in every region of the country. Arguably the most famous region is Rioja located in the Ebro River Valley in north central Spain. In view of the Sierra de Cantabria Mountains, its vineyards are blanketed with tempranillo vines, Spain’s most planted red grape. The variety typically exhibits cherry fruit and savory notes of cherry, tobacco and spice. Rioja is a good value in all price categories. But the 2016 Vina Real “Crianza” ($17), part of the CVNE stable, is an even more fabulous value for its expressive fruit and fine tannins. Even less expensive, the 2018 Kirkland Reserva ($10) is supple, earthy and fresh.
And for a nice comparison, the next best-known region is the Ribera del Duero just southwest of Rioja. Here, tempranillo is known as tinto fino or tinta del país and produces several of Spain’s greatest, most expensive wines. The 2017 Bela Crianza ($19) is a good introduction to the area. It has a nice balance of fruit and oak, fresh cherry and plum, with notes of licorice, smoke and dark chocolate, light tannins and lively acidity support the supple texture.
Spain’s most respected white wine comes from the region of Rías Baixas in Galicia in northwestern Spain, known as “Green Spain”. The reason? Wines from albariño. If you like Sauvignon Blanc but not the herbaceousness so much, you’ll love the bracing citrus and savory qualities of albariño. Imagine the breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean as you savor the bracing, persistent 2019 Bodegas Muriel “Pazo Cilleiro” ($20).
We finish our tour in France enjoying value “Flower Label” wines from Burgundy by famous négociant Georges Duboeuf. France’s Burgundy region (located in the valleys and slopes west of the Saône River) is famous for red wines made from pinot noir and white wines made from chardonnay.
Its Mâconnais district takes its name from the town of Mâcon and is best known as a source of good value white wines usually labeled Mâcon-Villages. The unoaked 2018 ($23) offers a typical Mâcon character of taut citrus, peach and honeysuckle. The wines from Pouilly-Fuissé traditionally have been popular in the U.S., even though a bit more expensive. The 2018 ($40) is fuller with deeper citrus, apple, and tropical fruit.
Turn to Beaujolais, located just north of the city of Lyon, for red wine values. Though its main grape is gamay, not pinot noir. Famous for its fresh, fruity, amiable, it is generally best enjoyed slightly chilled. Made using a special whole bunch fermentation process (known as carbonic maceration), it is known for a flavor profile of mostly bright red fruits, floral, herbal and mineral notes, and lively acidity. There are generic Beaujolais wines that can be tasty and particularly affordable and there are Beaujolais-Villages wines like the 2018 ($14), which gives fruity, generous, medium-bodied wines. And then there are top-level wines from specific vineyards near 10 specially designated villages and that fall somewhere in between both in quality and price. The 2018 Morgon ($22) is more concentrated and rich, with fresh, silky tannins.
Sparkling wine is so popular some version of it is made in almost every country that produces wine. Sadly, most of it is drunk only during holidays or special occasions. Whether it’s called Champagne, Cremant, Sekt, Prosecco, Cava, Spumante, or something else, sparkling wine is the prime choice for celebrations of all types.
That certainly is understandable. Just as bubbles rise, sparkling wines seem by their very nature to elevate a wine and the wine drinking experience.
My mission here is to convince you to drink sparkling wine throughout the year. Luckily, there are many reasonably priced sparklers to make that an easy choice. And what better time than summer (or fall, winter or spring). That they are best chilled; are versatile with food – available as red, white or pink – and have palate cleansing bubbles, all give them an advantage over most other wines.
NOTE: All wines in this column are nonvintage unless otherwise identified.
While Champagne is the benchmark for sparkling wine, there are good sparklers elsewhere in France. Usually labeled Crémant, these also are made using the “Methode Champenoise” or “Methode Traditionnelle” (meaning the bubbles are created using the method where a second fermentation occurs in the bottle thus trapping the resultant carbonation). Notably, they an affordable alternative.
I particularly like Crémant d’Alsace. Alsace is better known for amazing Rieslings and Gewürztraminers but its Crémant is produced from the classic Champagne varieties – pinot noir and chardonnay – though pinot blanc, pinot gris and riesling may make it into some blends. A good example is the Lucien Albrecht, Brut Rosé ($23). From a winery that dates to 1698 and was a pioneer in the establishment of the first Alsace Crémants about fifty years ago, this 100 percent pinot noir offers crisp strawberry fruit with finesse and a creamy palate.
One I don’t see very often but enjoyed in my tasting is Crémant de Loire. Gratien & Meyer, a producer of fine sparklers in Saumur for over 150 years has combined Champagne grapes (Pinot Noir and Chardonnay) with Loire grapes (Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc for a fine Brut Rosé ($18).
Italians take their bubbly every bit as seriously as do the French and have been making it nearly as long. Prosecco, the fresh, foamy, fruity frizzante from northeastern Veneto has vaulted in popularity in recent years. Made from the native glera grape in the hills north of Venice, Prosecco (the name of the production zone) unlike the other sparklers in this report is produced using the Charmat Method. In this case, the bubbles are produced by inducing the second fermentation in pressurized stainless steel tanks, instead of the bottle. This preserves glera’s fresh aromas and clean, delicate fruit (pear, citrus, apple and peach) at lower alcohol than most bubbly.
Founded in 1887, Mionetto today is one of the widest distributed Prosecco brands. Its Prestige Brut ($14) offers a lively, delicate palate. Pasqua, maker of popular value wines for 95 years, name checks Veneto’s star-crossed lovers with an elegant, “Romeo & Juliet” Brut ($16).
Lambrusco from Emilia-Romagna is enjoying a reintroduction to American consumers as artisan bubbly – exuberantly fruity berries and mostly dry, not the sickly sweet, mass-produced froth of the past. One of the best is Cleto Chiarli, which has been making Lambrusco near Modena in Emilia Romagna since 1860. Chiarli makes only Lambrusco (with the Charmat Method) and uses only estate grapes. I suspect these still may be an acquired taste for some but I think they are delicious, versatile, and flavorful.
Nonvintage Brut di Noir Rosé ($16) tart, juicy, easy drinking
Cava is Spain’s contribution that has long been a go-to for wallet-friendly fizz. It is typically produced by the traditional method with the indigenous grapes macabeo, xarel-lo, and parellada in the Penedès not far from Barcelona.
Having made wine since 1861, Freixenet produced its first sparkling sparkling wine in 1914 and has grown to be the world’s largest producer of Champagne Method wines. Two of its most popular wines ($15) are the delicate, fresh Cordon Negro Brut and berried, slightly sweet Brut Rosé.
Codorníu, has been making Cava since 1872 when the family introduced the traditional method to Spain. Its Clasico Brut, made using native grapes, at ($11) is its most popular and accessible wine. It also produces an interesting line using the traditional Champagne grapes. The Anna de Codorníu line is a tribute to the last person in the family that bore the surname Codorníu. The NV Brut Rosé ($15), 70 percent pinot noir and 30 percent chardonnay, focuses on refreshing, lightly sweet cherry and strawberry but also a hint of green apple.
svresva 002
Segura Viudas is situated on an estate that dates to the 11th century, which may be one reason the owners have such an appreciation on sustainability. Its crown jewel, the full, elegant Reserva Heredad ($30), is blended from just macabeo and parellada and is a fine example of what extra attention like aging on the lees can accomplish.
California sparkling wine consumption also has grown significantly in recent years, in fact the fastest of all categories in the past year. California makes many truly fine sparkling wines. One of the best comes from the Ferrer family, owner of Spain’s Freixenet, who has been producing highly regarded sparkling wines under the Gloria Ferrer label since 1986 from estate vineyards in Carneros. The Blanc de Noirs ($22) was represented in my tasting. At 92 percent pinot noir and 8 percent chardonnay it showed vibrant cherry and apple, with a creamy palate. Also look for the Sonoma Brut ($22), Blanc de Blancs ($22) and Brut Rosé ($27).
Roederer Estate, which was founded in Mendocino County in 1981 by the Champagne Louis Roederer family, has long been a favorite of mine. These wines are sourced from organically farmed estate vineyards in the Anderson Valley. Importantly, they add oak-aged reserve wines to each year’s cuvée, a practice common in Champagne, to achieve a characteristic richness and complexity. The Brut ($24) is 60 percent chardonnay and 40 percent pinot noir.
Also notable in my tasting, the inaugural sparkling wine of a young Sonoma County winery, the 2018 Sosie “Bare Necessity” Sparkling Rosé ($30) benefits from native fermentation and no additives.
Farther north in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, Argyle has produced sparkling wine since its founding in 1981. Its 2016 Brut ($28), its foundational wine, is comprised of the traditional Champagne grapes while aging three years on the lees in 30 percent neutral oak. This adds up to richness with a juicy lemon custard character.
After all this, though, Champagne still is the world’s most prestigious sparkling wine and is considered the standard for other bubbly. Typically blends of pinot noir and chardonnay with dollops of pinot meunier, the best Champagnes expertly balance richness and delicacy.
A nonvintage Brut is the most widely enjoyed style, partly because it is the most affordable. It also represents the signature style of a Champagne house, as it is blended to achieve a yearly consistency. A good example is the Alfred Gratien Classic Brut ($50). This winery has been making bubbly since 1864 and is one of the last remaining Champagne houses carrying out the entire vinification process using wood. This bottling (mostly chardonnay with pinot noir and pinot meunier) does not undergo malolactic fermentation but is aged five years on the lees and fermented and matured in barriques, giving it a rich texture, with crisp, apple and citrus.
A good nonvintage Rosé also is a special experience. Billecart-Salmon, founded in 1818, has been making Champagne Rosé since the 1840s. Its Brut Rosé ($90), vinified in stainless steel and aged on lees three years, offers crisp red fruits and fresh bread with a rich, slightly spicy palate.
Finally, sometimes you want something special and Vintage Champagne fits the bill. Such it is with the 2008 Laurent-Perrier Brut Millésimé ($80). Laurent-Perrier has chosen to make vintages very rarely, only selecting the very best years. This one’s luxurious fruit is a perfect example why. Half chardonnay and half pinot noir, it is aged seven years on the lees, yielding enticing ripe citrus and apple, with toasty, creamy, and spicy notes that drink firmly yet elegantly.
