The People's Palate with Rich Mauro

As I have noted here, in recent years, Rosé has become quite popular with the American consumer after decades of suspicion. Certainly, there was and continues to be an attraction to sweet blush wines like “White Zinfandel”. 

These days, though, it is the dry (or mostly dry) wines that have enjoyed attention. It seems like every winery in most every wine-producing region produces a pink wine in their portfolio. Luckily, there is more than enough quality among these crimson colored wines to satisfy even serious wine drinkers. 

Europeans have known for a long time the joy of drinking a good dry pink wine. The most common term is Rosé (French) but you may also see Rosato (Italian) and Rosado (Spanish). These days you are more likely to see Rosé.

This popularity is focused on dry wines modeled after European styles, not the sweet “blush” wines that have been popular for years. A variety of red grapes are used and the best wines are easy drinking, refreshing, yet flavorful. They exhibit bright, fresh fruit ranging from strawberry, cherry, raspberry, and cranberry to rhubarb, pomegranate, and watermelon. Expect a flavor profile similar to their red siblings, while they drink more like white wines.  

Enjoy these wines as an apéritif or with a full range of light foods. Compare European and American counterparts. Buy a couple of each and compare. 

Because of their vibrant freshness and lively fruit, pink wines are almost always best drunk young, so look for the most recent vintages available. Note, all wines here are 2019 vintage, unless otherwise stated.

There are essentially three ways to make a pink wine. The most common method is to crush red grapes and leave the juice in contact with the grape skins (the source of a wine’s color) only briefly. The second technique is a process called “saignée” in which a certain amount of juice is “bled off” shortly after red grapes are crushed. The third approach involves blending white and red wines to the desired effect.

Among Rosé devotees, France is the prime source. There is a dizzying array of French Rosés from all over the country (including Alsace, Loire, Champagne and Bordeaux) but most notably the south – places like Provence, Languedoc-Roussillon, Bandol, Rhône Valley, and Tavel. 

Provence in particular, the area along the Côte d’Azur, has a long history with Rosé as a prominent drink. And the Côtes de Provence appellation, where the wines are mostly grenache (often with cinsault and syrah), is especially popular. Coincidentally, my recommended wines are from wineries located a short distance from Saint-Tropez. Since you can’t travel there right now, imagine looking over the Mediterranean while sipping one of these delicate, refreshing wines.

From Château Minuty, an 18^th century estate using sustainable methods, there is the fragrant and floral, lightly spicy and tart but smooth “M de Minuty” ($23) and the estate grown “Prestige” ($30) offering a suggestion of creaminess. Domaine Cala, owned by Los Angeles celebrity Chef Joachim Splichal, has produced the savory, estate grown “Classic” ($18). A historic property, Commanderie de Peyrassol offers the fresh, crisp, juicy Cuvée de la Commanderie ($20). 

The nearby Côtes du Rhône is a fine source of good values. The Cellier des Dauphins Reserve ($11) shows a surprising textural component at this price from aging a short time on the lees. And Domaine La Manarine ($14) from its perch near Avignon and Château Mourgues du Grès “Fleur d’ Eglantine” ($14) from the Costières de Nîmes subregion both feature organic viticulture. 

Rhône/Provençal style wines also are popular in among many California wineries. Try another organic from Mendocino County’s Bonterra ($16) for its. I also found two good value wines from Paso Robles. Smashberry ($13) from Miller Family Vineyards, a large vineyard owner in Paso Robles, and Pink Pedals ($15) an all grenache wine from Chronic Cellars owned by two brothers whose family owns the highly regarded Peachy Canyon winery.  

While Rosé is produced in Burgundy, particularly from the village of Marsannay it is a minor production. But many California wineries have latched on to pinot noir as the grape of choice for Rosé. This is likely because the grape typically produces lighter colored wines anyway and tends to reveal its primary aromas and flavors at earlier ripeness than, say, cabernet sauvignon. 

And these were some of the favorites of my tasting, especially the Rodney Strong Russian River Valley ($25), which shows juicy fruit, good body and flavor interest worthy of serious food. The MacRostie Russian River Valley ($28) with fruit from a block of Thale’s Vineyard, the Jackson Estate Panorama Vineyard ($30) with fruit from a vineyard in Arroyo Seco, and Pisoni Vineyard’s “Lucy” ($19) from the Santa Lucia Highlands were not far behind in enjoyment. 

Similarly, Bordeaux produces a small amount of Rosé. But Napa’s Ehlers Estate Sylviane ($32), made with cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc, turned out to be my favorite of the tasting. New winemaker Laura Díaz Muñoz has a winner with this one for its intense flavor, minerality creamy texture. 

From Italy’s Veneto region, the Pasqua “11 Minutes” ($20) reflects vineyards that line the shores of Lake Garda. This wine is half the native corvina and surprisingly one-fourth the white trebbiano. 11 minutes refers to the length of time the winemaker allows for contact between juice and skins. From California, the 2018 Oak Ridge OZV Primitivo ($15) is intriguing to this longtime Zinfandel afficionado, as primitivo (originating from Apulia) is zinfandel’s genetic sibling. 

In Spain, tempranillo is the major red grape and the Cune Rosado ($14) stands out for its darker color, a result of longer skin contact yielding a more full-flavored wine. For a California version, “Rose Against the Machine” ($24), by Napa Valley’s Anarchist Winery uses Clarksburg fruit to produce a wine with razor sharp acidity. 

Finally, for those of you who still prefer sweet, quaffable wines, Ron’s Chillable Pink ($13) from River Road Vineyards in Sonoma fits the bill with soft fine/foamy bubbles. And only 7.1% alcohol. 

Readers of this column, please tell me why you aren’t drinking more (or any) Riesling. Wine writers (including myself), sommeliers, and most other wine professionals have touted the virtues of this wine for decades. But sales data show Riesling is still at best an afterthought for wine consumers. 

Still, the wines are special, with the ability to combine luscious fruit with bracing acidity into a restorative elixir. Typically, they are light but full flavored and low (sometimes quite low) in alcohol. And top German Rieslings can be some of the longest lived wines anywhere. So, I am determined to persist in my advocacy. And yet I can think of some reasons why consumers are skeptical. 

Part of the problem is the misconception Riesling is always sweet. “It’s too sweet”, I often hear. For many years, sweet wines were big sellers in this country and there was plenty of simple, cheap Riesling. Now, many drinkers think all sweet wines are inferior quality to dry wines. That’s never been true and I’ll try again to convince you of that.

“What, you mean it can be dry, too?” With that one, I think many American consumers just have no idea what to expect. Ironically, dry (or at least off-dry) is the most common style of Riesling around the world. 

And when it comes to German Riesling, the subject of this column, there are additional challenges. And it begins with the labels. There is a lot of valuable but hard to decipher information. And it’s not always easy to discern which rieslings are dry and which have some degree of sweetness (though some have taken to including a scale on the back label showing where the wine lands from dry to sweet).

Let me give you some tips to increase the probability of picking a quality wine – designated on the label as Qualiätswein. This indicates a wine from an officially sanctioned grape; grown in one of the 13 designated wine regions; and has passed the official quality wine test. 

Another helpful indicator of quality is the classification model of the VDP, a national association of nearly 200 wineries committed to the highest quality. While not part of the official German wine law and admitting excellent wine is available from nonmembers, its eagle logo on a bottle does signal the wine is from a seriously quality minded estate. At the tip of the quality pyramid is the “Grosse Lage” (Great Site – equivalent of Grand Cru in France) designation of a highest quality vineyard. 

If you are interested in the traditional “fruity” style (this style is my favorite) look for Qualitätswein mit Prädikat or Prädikatswein on the label. This indicates a wine made with grapes harvested at legally determined ripeness levels producing special characteristics, namely a naturally occurring balance of sweetness and acidity. There are six levels; three are reviewed here. Each of the wines below is from a Grosse Lage (great vineyard). 

Kabinett. Fine, light wines from ripe grapes usually slightly sweet with low alcohol 

• 2018 Schloss Johannisberg Rotlack ($42) ripe, rich, expressive, graceful
• 2018 Maximin Grünhäus Bruderberg ($38) balanced, elegant, lush, intense
• 2018 Dr. Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten ($28) spicy, earthy, juicy, intense, zesty, 
• 2018 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer ($26) fine, delicate, mineral, lush, bracing
• 2018 Dr. Loosen “Blue Slate” ($22) fresh, juicy, stony 

Spätlese. Very ripe, elegant with ripe fruit from later harvest; more intense in flavor and concentration andusually sweeter

• 2018 Schloss Johannisberg Grunlack ($60) bright, delicate, spicy, lush
• 2018 Maximin Grünhäus Herrenberg ($50) dense, piercing, mineral, opulent, tropical 
• 2018 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer ($34) concentrated, mineral, sleek, firm, herbal
• 2018 Dr. Loosen Erdener Treppchen ($34) red slate, well built, minerals 

Auslese. Exceptional sweet wines from fully ripe, botrytis-affected (also known as noble rot) grapes; best as dessert; all are 375ml bottles 

• 2018 Robert Weil Kiedrich Gräfenberg ($164) exuberant, mineral, layered, amazing intensity, piquant, lush, generous, precise, elegant, rich, 
• 2017 Dr. Loosen, Ürziger Würzgarten ($64) tropical, rich, spicy, intense, mineral, elegant, herbal, succulent
• 2018 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr ($56) luscious but structured, luxurious

The super sweet, super rare and super expensive “Beerenauslese”, “Trockenbeerenauslese” and “Eiswein” categories are not covered in this column.

I love the Prädikat wines, but it is the dry wines (“trocken” on the label) that are creating the most attention these days. However, there is a challenge for consumers as they can taste austere upon release compared to the soft, broad white wines we typically taste in the U.S. So, often, they require the patience of at least a few years to integrate, something that we consumers usually don’t have the patience for. Although they are worth the weight, luckily, the wines in my tasting present as more friendly for early consumption, which is consistent with reports about the 2018 vintage. 

At the peak of quality are the Grosses Gewächs, wines from Grosse Lage sites (often in special bottles embossed with the “GG” grape logo). An important feature of GGs is that naturally high acidity provides the foundation for remarkable aging potential. The wines below are bracing, fruitful, and firm with dramatic impact at first tasting. Interestingly, they were slightly different but even better the next day I tasted them. Mainly because the acidity had resolved a bit and allowed intense fruit to emerge. 

• 2018 Schloss Johannisberg Silberlack ($90) powerful yet balanced, pure, concentrated, refined  
• 2018 Maximin Grünhäus Abtsberg ($70) delicate frame yet a rich, complex fresh fruit with herb and mineral profile, generous 
• 2017 Dr. Loosen, Wehlener Sonnenuhr “Alte Reben” ($54) from old vines, focused, refined and fresh 

The following trocken wines are more friendly and approachable, displaying vibrant structure balanced with elegance. 

• 2018 Robert Weil Kiedrich Turmberg ($55) from an Erste Lage (or premier vineyard), intense, refined, definitive, juicy, stony, elegant, spice, mineral, graceful, luscious
• 2018 Wittmann Niersteiner ($34) from an Erste Lage, vibrant, supple, intense, lithe, rich
• 2018 Wittmann Riesling Estate ($20) bright, elegant, stony, forceful 
• 2018 Robert Weil ($20) intense, tangy, herbal, mineral 
• 2018 Fritz Haag ($20) brisk, delicate, mineral
• 2018 Dr. Loosen Red Slate ($18) floral, spicy 
• Fritz Haag Braunberger Tradition ($20) feinherb, delicate, light, fresh
• Robert Weil Tradition ($20) moderately sweet, fruity, lively

At the risk of adding to the confusion, I also really enjoyed several off-dry or semi-dry or semi-sweet wines (depending on your taste sensitivities). See what I mean. Two were labeled “feinherb” (meaning off-dry) and two were labeled “Tradition” but such labeling is optional. You may also see the term halbtrocken, a regulated term meaning half dry. 

• Maximin Grünhaus Abstberg Superior ($64) beautifully medium-dry, juicy, mineral, herbal, firm
• 2018 Schloss Johannisberg Gelblack ($35) feinherb, delightfully accessible sweet/ tart with mineral tinge
• 2018 Fritz Haag Braunberger Tradition ($20) feinherb, delicate, fine mineral, fresh
• 2018 Robert Weil Tradition ($20) moderately sweet, delicate, fruity, lively

Ultimately, my message is these wines are so good the challenges shouldn’t keep you from enjoying them. 

Chardonnay’s place at the pinnacle of popularity in the U.S. has lasted for nearly four decades. It is the most planted grape and number one in sales volume. I guess this shouldn’t be a surprise. Its adaptability to different growing conditions and winemaking styles at least partly explains this. 

There was a period of winemaking excess, primarily characterized by what is now considered overuse of oak. This eventually spurred a bit of a backlash, particularly among proponents urging consumers to drink ABC – Anything but Chardonnay. But consumers didn’t listen and kept drinking all styles. It seems the consumers’ motto has been Always Buy Chardonnay. 

More recently, winemakers have found a better balance. With Burgundy as the benchmark, what has been described as traditional practices – use of new oak barrels for fermentation and aging, malolactic fermentation, and aging on the lees – employed judiciously and tailored to the quality of the fruit, can produce delightfully balanced and enticingly complex wines. 

Done right, this produces in the best Chardonnays (in my opinion) wines of lush texture with vibrant acidity accented variously with notes of cream, butter, toast, vanilla, baking spice, butterscotch and nuts. The fruit will be intense and the grape’s natural citrus may be joined with apple, pear, peach, melon, fig or tropical fruit, depending on the climate of the vineyard and the ripeness at harvest. 

With such an enviable combination of body and depth with refreshing acidity, it’s not surprising Chardonnay has been such a success. The wines below (in order of my personal preference but all are recommended) deftly walk the line between opulence and freshness, pure fruit and richness, delivering complexity with oak influence more as seasoning than dominant flavoring. 

Most impressive in my tasting this year were four single vineyard wines from Ramey Wine Cellars, which I found emblematic of this style. Founded in 1996 by prominent winemaker David Ramey and his wife Carla (who handles the business side) after nearly twenty years at some of California’s best wineries, Ramey Wine Cellars is one of California’s leading, family-owned and operated wineries.  

The winery produces more than two dozen different wines, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux blends, Syrah, and Pinot Noir from vineyards in the Napa Valley and Sonoma County. But it is Chardonnay that has most distinguished Mr. Ramey throughout his forty-year career, during which he has become one of the most influential winemakers in California. And his record of success enables him access to some of the most highly regarded vineyards. 

These 2016 vintage wines (each $65) are lush yet structured, self-possessed yet robust, richly textured yet balanced with ebullient acidity. It was impossible to pick a favorite. 

• Ritchie Vineyard (Russian River Valley) dramatic impact, luscious oak, loads of mouthwatering fruit, luxurious palate 
• Rochioli Vineyard (Russian River Valley) concentrated, focused, powerful, balanced with graceful texture 
• Woolsey Road (Russian River Valley) bursting with zesty, well defined fruit, richly textured 
• Hyde Vineyard (Carneros) intense, precise, juicy, elegantly textured 

The wines below (in order of personal preference) deftly walk the line between opulence and freshness, pure fruit and richness, delivering complexity with oak influence more as seasoning than dominant flavoring. 

2017 Blue Farm Laceroni Vineyard ($70). Located in the southwestern Russian River Valley near Graton, this is oaky rich, concentrated, and lively, with hints of cinnamon. 

2017 MacRostie Dutton Ranch ($46). This Russian River Valley vineyard is one of the most prestigious in California. This example offers toasty oak, rich fruit; drinks fresh but soft. 

2018 Lombardi Sonoma Coast ($44). Blends its fruit nicely and balances definition, richness, and juicy acidity with creamy notes. 

2018 Chappellet Grower Collection El Novillero Vineyard ($49). This Carneros based wine shows brisk fruit, light creaminess, and a supple finish.

2017 Oceano Spanish Springs Vineyard ($38). This San Louis Obispo vineyard presents forward fruit, hint of oak, drinks firmly.

2017 Ram’s Gate Sonoma Coast ($46) opening freshness softens and broadens in the finish 

2017 Duckhorn Huichica Hills Vineyard ($58). Carneros fruit provides a nicely spiced, lightly buttery, rich wine.

2018 Frank Family Carneros ($38). Lush texture is balanced with a linear streak. 

For decades in California, pinot noir frustrated even the best winemakers. In recent years, though, California has begun to figure out the grape. Today, there are numerous appellations along a 500-mile stretch from Mendocino to Santa Barbara sourcing fine Pinot Noir. 

Especially during the last two decades, growers and winemakers have focused more on making food-friendly wines more reflective of their origins. They have identified vineyard sites characterized by proximity to a body of water (the Pacific Ocean or a river) and the associated fog and cool breezes leading to long growing seasons enabling optimal ripeness and naturally fresh acidity. 

And the wine’s popularity has surged. According to Nielson, Pinot Noir was the fifth most popular California wine in 2019, based on volume and sales (after chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, red blends, and pinot girgio/gris).

Pinot Noir at its best is all expression of its source. Wine industry folks use terms like appellation and especially terroir to encapsulate the influence of all the factors – climate, soil, surroundings and humans – that contribute to the making of a wine. With quality Pinot Noir, these seem to be even more important than with other wines.

In the glass, the best wines typically reveal pure red (mostly cherry) fruit with integrated forest, earth (occasionally mushroom), and brown spices, all delivered with a silky but fresh texture. The wines below are the best I tasted in recent months. 

The prices for such high-level wines (from the best producers and most renowned sites) are similarly high but consumer interest has remained even as prices have risen. Expect higher quality and smaller quantity, especially with vineyard designated wines. The best place to look for good values – high quality and lower price – are the appellation designated wines. And one could argue that single vineyard wines are not uniformly better than appellation but just different expressions of the grape.

Remote, rugged and sparsely populated, the Anderson Valley of Mendocino County is an unexpected (for some) source of fine Pinot Noir. About 110 miles north of San Francisco, the valley has a cool climate with ocean influences like fog despite running parallel Pacific. Not surprisingly, it has drawn the attention of wineries based in other regions. The wines tend to a lean, elegant style, with focused red fruits, and savory nuances. 

Cakebread. A respected Carneros Napa Valley producer who recognized the promise of Mendocino. From two estate vineyards, the 2017 Two Creeks Vineyards ($45) shows red fruits and herbs with its firm and slightly sweet presentation. 

Domaine Anderson. Owned by the French Champagne company Louis Roederer, which also owns fine Mendocino sparkling wine producers Roederer Estate and Scharfenberger, the 2015 ($40) is concentrated, earthy, and spicy. It has a tight structure but is welcoming. 

Goldeneye. The Duckhorn wine company, respected producers of Napa Valley Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, began acquiring vineyards in the Anderson Valley 25 years ago. Its 2017 wines are pricy but deliver the goods. 

• Ten Degrees ($125) big, ripe, assertive, balanced 
• Confluence Vineyard ($86) oaky, earthy 
• The Narrows Vineyard ($86) juicy, plump, tight 
• Split Rail Vineyard ($86) juicy, full 

Masút. An outlier geographically in this group as it is actually located in the nearby Eagle Peak AVA, this winery and vineyard is owned by the Fetzer family, an iconic name in Mendocino.  Masút is a Native American word meaning “dark, rich earth”. The 2016 Estate Vineyard ($40) is unique in this group for its blueberry fruit with spice and anise.  

Siduri Wines. Adam and Dianna Lee founded Siduri in 1994. A Pinot Noir specialist that now produces close to two dozen different Pinot Noirs throughout California and Oregon, Siduri’s first ever wine was from Anderson Valley. The 2017 Siduri ($40) shows deep, juicy black and red fruits, forest floor/underbrush but still tastes fresh and crisp, and is broad, and welcoming. 

Would you be surprised to hear that Sonoma County is considered one of the premier producers of Pinot Noir on the planet? When I first became interested in wine over forty years ago, I mostly associated Sonoma with Zinfandel, Chardonnay, Bordeaux-style wines and field blends. The fact that a few pioneers were producing notable Pinot Noir at the time flew under my radar.

Now, that has changed, especially for the Russia River Valley and Sonoma Coast AVAs (American Viticultural Area, a legally delineated growing region similar to an appellation in France). Over the last couple decades as growers and winemakers realized such cool climate sites tend to produce the best pinot noir grapes, the appeal of regions in proximity to bodies of water, most notably the Pacific Ocean and the Russian River, for the associated fog and cool breezes, increased dramatically. 

Occupying the center of Sonoma County, the Russian River Valley travels west roughly from Healdsburg to Guerneville in its north and Santa Rosa to Occidental in its south. Most pinot noir is grown in the western and southern areas. One such area is the separately identified Green Valley AVA near Occidental. It tends towards slightly cooler mornings but warmer afternoons. 

Closer to the Pacific in the western reaches of Sonoma, the Sonoma Coast extends from San Pablo Bay in the south to the border with Mendocino County in the north. The appellation is generally even cooler and experiences more rain than the Russian River Valley. But most vineyards are above the fog line, resulting often in slightly warmer weather. 

Within the expansive Sonoma Coast AVA, the Fort Ross – Seaview AVA settles in the northern reaches overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Vineyards within this area are generally located on high elevation ridges and slopes. The Petaluma Gap AVA is nestled in the southern end just 25 miles north of San Francisco. Its vineyards dot valleys and hillsides and are noted for the afternoon wind and fog that rolls in from Bodega Bay to the east.

Benziger. Initially from its ranch on Sonoma Mountain, this family has been a leader in sustainable, organic and biodynamic farming since the early 1980s. From its biodynamic de Coelo Vineyard in the Sonoma Coast (between Freestone and Bodega), its “Quintus” (2016, $69) is a special block that in this vintage shows a dark profile, with a linear streak, finishing with anise and spice.

Blue Farm. After nearly four decades in winegrowing and winemaking with Buena Vista and Donum Estate, Anne Moller-Racke is now devoted to Blue Farm, a project she started with planting a vineyard (in 2001) behind her historic farmhouse in Carneros. It now includes wines sourced from throughout Sonoma County. Her 2017 King Ridge Vineyard ($85), from the Fort Ross-Seaview AVA, is polished and velvety, concentrated yet balanced. 

J. Bucher. Having operated an organic dairy farm for many years, the Bucher family branched out in 1997 with the planting of the Bucher Vineyard in Russian River Valley. They began making estate grown wines in 2011, with the hiring of Siduri’s Adam Lee as winemaker. The 2017 Bucher Vineyard ($40) is complex mix of dark fruits, earth, spice, forest and saline note, deep, intense, spicy, crisp acids. Two special selections from the Bucher Vineyard – the rich, ripe, mouthwatering, slightly savory 2017 Pommard Clone ($55) and the intense but balanced, lush and lively 2017 Three Sixty ($65), from two blocks of Dijon clones – impressed.

Chappellet. From a winery that has been producing highly prized Napa Valley wines since 1967, its Grower’s Collection presents single vineyard wines from selected, highly respected growers in Sonoma County. Two from Russian River Valley – the deeply fruited, savory complex 2018 Dutton Ranch ($49) from a legendary vineyard and the luxurious, earthy, herbal 2018 Apple Lane Vineyard ($60) from the Green Valley, also farmed by the Dutton family – earned my respect. 

Emeritus. This Pinot Noir specialist was established in 1999 by Brice Cutrer Jones, originator of the wildly popular Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay. The winery produces wines from estate vineyards in the Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast. The 2017 Hallberg Ranch ($45) from Green Valley is juicy, elegant yet forceful. The 2017 Pinot Hill ($60) from a vineyard in the southern Sonoma Coast is refined and bracing with a note of sea spray. 

Gary Farrell. Since 1982, this winery has gained prestige for single vineyard wines from top Russian River Valley vineyards. Since 2012, the winemaking has been under the skilled stewardship of Theresa Heredia. The wine in my tasting, the tangy, juicy, slightly savory 2017 Russian River Selection ($45), featuring a select blend of barrels, blocks, and vineyards, expresses the essence of the valley. 

Lombardi. In 2013, after years in the wine industry, Tony and Christine Lombardi established their own winery, working with a variety of respected growers, especially near Petaluma. Their 2018 Sonoma Coast ($48) represents that AVA with bright, lively, fruit and prominent spice. The 2018 Hill Justice ($68) from a Sonoma Mountain vineyard on the eastern edge of the Petaluma Gap is structured yet elegant with forest notes. The 2018 Giusti Ranch ($68), which dates to the 1870’s in the Russian River Valley, is full and enticing, bright and juicy, with a cola note. 

MacRostie. An early pioneer of Sonama Coast, Steve MacRostie has worked with top Sonoma growers since 1987 and now has estate vineyards in the Sonoma Coast and Russian River Valley. From the latter, the 2017 Thale’s Vineyard ($58) presents lively, juicy fruit, with earth and spice. The 2017 Sonoma Coast ($34) is vibrant, lightly earthy, and gently tannic.

Ram’s Gate. Founded in 2011 in Carneros, now transitioning to organic production, Ram’s Gate sources grapes from throughout the county. The 2017 Sonoma Coast ($46) is dark fruited, fresh but lush, lightly woodsy, finishing with noticeable tannin.

Roger Roessler. Having spent over 40 years opening and running dozens of restaurant businesses, mostly in Durango, Santa Fe, and Albuquerque, Roger Roessler founded this winery in 2000. The 2017 “Red Birds” Sonoma Coast ($45) is nicely balanced, fresh with light mushroom. The 2018 “Black Pine” Russian River Valley ($30) balances full fruit with earthy and red pepper notes.

Ron Rubin. The owner of The Republic of Tea with a forty-year career in the beverage industry entered the wine business in 2011 with the purchase of River Road Vineyards and Winery in the Green Valley. The 2017 River Road Stephanie’s Cuvée ($30), the portfolio’s most expensive wine, has pure fruit, with a note of cinnamon. The 2017 Ron Rubin Russian River Valley ($25) is pure, direct, and spicy. 

Siduri. Siduri’s appellation wines are fine expressions of each selected growing region. The 2017 Russian River Valley ($40) exudes warmth with light spice and juicy fruit. 

Three Sticks. A family-owned winery founded in 2002 and led by vineyard owner Bill Price and winemakers Bob Cabral (formerly of Williams-Selyem) and Ryan Pritchard (worked several years at Colorado’s Boulder Creek Winery). The 2018 Price Family Estates ($65) from Sonoma Coast is deeply fruited, precise, lush, and lightly oaky. The 2018 Russian River Valley ($65) offers amazingly well-integrated fruit, luscious texture, and energetic structure.  

Straddling the southern reaches of Sonoma and Napa counties, Carneros rises from the San Pablo Bay. Carneros has transformed from sheep and dairy ranches to prime vineyard land over the last fifty years. Cooled by fog and winds from the bay, the resulting wines typically display admirable delicacy, balance and freshness. 

Blue Farm. From that estate vineyard behind her Carneros farmhouse I mentioned above, the 2017 Anne Katherina Vineyard ($65) is enticingly floral and silky. 

Cuvaison. This winery has been farming Carneros since 1969. Its 2017 “Swan” ($65) bottling is distinguished by a vibrant, balanced character. The Swan pinot noir clone is an heirloom selection from its estate. 

Artesa. Owned by Cordoniu, Spain’s oldest winery and the originator of Cava (Spanish sparkling wine). Its 2016 Los Carneros ($28), a really fine value, is refined and luscious, with notes of herbs and spice. 

Frank Family. 2017 ($38) This Napa Valley winery sourced fruit from the highly regarded Sangiacomo and Beckstoffer vineyards and the estate Lewis vineyard. It is sleek, earthy and spicy, while richly textured.

Certain microclimates in Monterey County enjoy a balance between cool Monterey Bay breezes from the west and the warming influences from the Salinas Valley to the east. 

Just inland from the bay, the vineyards of the Santa Lucia Highlands are planted on the hillsides of the Santa Lucia mountain range overlooking the Salinas Valley. There are many fine, pricy wines being produced from here. My tasting included two really good values. From mostly estate vineyards with some purchased fruit, the vibrant 2017 Siduri ($30) is a fine representation of the viticultural area. Made with Santa Lucia Highlands and Arroyo Seco (a few miles to the south) fruit, the 2018 J. Lohr “Falcon’s Perch” ($17) is a very good value with fresh, firm, savory; bright, lively red fruits, herbal notes and a hint of sweetness.

Just to the south of Monterey, San Louis Obispo county gets less attention for its wine regions, except for Paso Robles, which has emerged in the past two decades as a world class viticultural area. Beyond that there are a number of notable vineyards, many within just five miles of the Pacific Coast.

Oceano. Grapes are sourced from its estate Spanish Springs Vineyard, which they claim is the closest vineyard to the ocean in California, just 1.5 miles from Pismo Beach. Their 2018 ($45) is a bit closed right now but will improve as its herbal, woodsy qualities integrate with its focused red fruits.  

Santa Barbara County sports two regions of note – Santa Maria Valley and Santa Ynez Valley, especially Santa Rita Hills. The Santa Rita Hills in particular are notable for their east-west orientation, which funnels cooling Pacific Ocean breezes throughout the valley, has become a magnet for top Pinot.

Sea Smoke. Planted thirty years ago, the Sea Smoke estate vineyard is biodynamically farmed. The 2017 “Southing” ($70) is a selection of blocks intended to reflect the variety and complexity of the vineyard. Lush, intense, lightly minty, it is rich, full, and persistent.

The Hilt Estate. Just a few miles away from Sea Smoke, Hilt’s north-facing vineyards occupy the southwest corner of the Santa Rita Hills. The 2017 ($45) blends estate fruit with grapes from Santa Barbara’s famous Sanford & Benedict vineyard. It is pure, elegant, savory. 

Finally, you should snap up the 2017 Calera Central Coast ($30) the first chance you get. Comprised of fruit from ten vineyards throughout the Central Coast from Monterey to Santa Barbara, this wine is amazing for being such an amalgam (and at this price). It presents red and black fruits, earthy/underbrush notes, hints of spice, and star anise. 

Early this past March, Italy became the European epicenter of the COVID-19 pandemic and the first to impose a nationwide lockdown. And northern Italy, including the Veneto and Piemonte, was the hardest hit. This is the fourth and last of my series of columns on Italian wine regions; I pay tribute to these regions (and the nearby Alto Adige) as the country slowly opens up. 

First up, the Veneto is home to cultural touchstones like Venice, Padua and Verona. And to important wine growing regions, particularly for the purposes of this column the province of Verona. These days, the Veneto’s most popular wine is the bubbly Prosecco but Soave (white) and Valpolicella (red) in the area around Verona, after years of mass production, have reemerged in recent years as fine, affordable wines.

Two of the best producers in the region are Azienda Agricola Inama and Tenuta Sant’Antonio. Inama is particularly notable for impressive Soave from the Classico zone, the original area of production. The indigenous garganega is the primary white grape, typically yielding crisp wines suggesting citrus, honeydew, and a touch of appealing bitterness. I found the 2019 “Vin Soave” ($16), the entry-level Soave Classico aged in stainless steel to be a fantastic value. A single vineyard wine, the 2017 “Vignetti di Carbonare” ($28) is richer and more complex. 

Tenuta Sant’Antonio is operated by the Castagnedi family, which has tended vineyards in the Valpolicella area for over one hundred years and now produces organically farmed, estate-grown wines including Soave but are best known for Valpolicella and Amarone. The native corvina is the most important grape in these blends. Entry level Valpolicella, like the 2018 Nanfrè ($15), which saw no oak, typically are fresh and light, offering tart red cherry and hints of cinnamon. 

At the tip of the Valpolicella pyramid is Amarone della Valpolicella. Amarone is typically the flagship of a producer. It is a special type of Valpolicella made using the ancient “appassimento” process, which involves drying the grapes to concentrate the juice. 

The 2015 Sant’Antonio “Selezione Antonio Castegnedi” ($47), with three months of appassimento, is a fine representative amply displaying the power and deep dark fruits, hints of baking spice, mocha, smoke and tobacco typical of this raisiny, complex wine. Another really good example comes from Familia Pasqua (2015, $50). It is a plump, fleshy accessible wine, with generous notes of blackberry and dried plum, spice, tar and leather. 

An in between style, Valpolicella Ripasso achieves richer flavors by macerating fresh Valpolicella with grape materials remaining after Amarone fermentation. The result is a wine like the 2017 Sant’Antonio Monti Garbi ($22) with its intense black fruits and admirable complexity.

In the northeast corner of Italy, in the shadow of the Dolomites, Italy’s Alto Adige is largely known for producing crisp, aromatic white wines from a range of indigenous varietals. Red wines from the region’s native grapes, such as lagrein and teroldego, are growing in recognition as well. 

Alois Lageder, a family owned winery with six generations of winemaking near Bolzano, has emerged as arguably the most influential producer in the region. Respecting traditional winemaking methods, while working to advance biodynamic farming, if you like crisp white wines, you must try these.

For fine entry level values, get the 2018 Pinot Grigio ($16) – brisk citrus, melon, and quinine with a tight structure and spicy finish and the 2018 Pinot Bianco ($15) – delightfully aromatic, lime and lemongrass with a rounded palate. These wines are amazing values. 

Lageder also produces impressive special selections.  These next two wine exemplify Lageder’s reputation as an innovator. A very successful experiment, the 2017 Pinot Grigio “Porer” ($26) blends freshly pressed juice with juice fermented on the skins and some on skins and stems, an unusual process for white wines. The blended wine was aged both in stainless steel and large oak casks. While I found the aroma subdued, the palate is ebullient with zesty melon, citrus and stone fruits and a lush texture. The 2018 Manzoni Bianco “Forra” ($31) is made from a rare variety, a cross between riesling and pinot bianco. It offers lots of citrus, apple and apricot, with brisk acidity and a sumptuous texture. 

West of Milano, Piemonte rests in view of the western Alps but is also influenced by proximity to the Mediterranean. While Tuscany is arguably Italy’s best-known province, Piemonte is equally prized for its food and wine. Here, nebbiolo reigns as does sangiovese in Tuscany. Similarly, its best wines carry other, usually place names like Barolo and Barbareso. Typically, these wines offer red berry fruit notes with tight, grippy tannins and are some of the most expensive from Italy. 

I recently tasted two good examples at more affordable prices. Founded in 1878 in the Roero subregion in the southern Piemonte near the town of Cuneo, Enrico Serafino is a premier producer of sparkling wines but also Piemonte’s other signature wines. The 2015 Barolo “Monclivio” ($40), from grapes grown on the neighboring Langhe hillsides, shows fruity red berry, with hints of sweetness, eucalyptus, oak and the woods before firm tannins close. 

Another good introduction is the 2015 Barolo ($45) from winemaker and owner Luca Bosio, located in the heart of the Langhe. It is a bit darker fruited and quite earthy. And a nice comparison with a different expression of nebbiolo is Bosio’s 2015 Barbaresco ($37) with its intriguing tart red fruits and saline qualities. 

And for an even more affordable taste try a “Langhe Nebbiolo” like the 2017 Enrico Serafino “Picotener” ($25), which vinifies a rare sub-variety of nebbiolo to make a spicy wine of softer texture and light tannin.  

For all the prestige of nebbiolo, barbera is often said to make the wine the locals drink most. Typically, the grape produces a hearty but accessible red wine with juicy cherry, herbs and a touch of licorice. Bosio’s 2018 Barbera d’Asti ($13) combines a refreshing mouthful with firm tannin.

Finally, Piemonte also sources several fine white wines, notably from moscato, arneis and cortese. I had a nice example of the indigenous cortese grape grown in the area around the town of Gavi. Enrico Serafino’s 2018 Gavi di Gavi “Grifo del Quartaro” ($17) opens with nice peach and grapefruit notes and drinks brisk and tangy. 

In my experience, interest in southern Italy generally takes a back seat to places like Rome, Tuscany and Venice. But it is fascinating geography (and culture and history) and produces some of the peninsula’s most interesting wines. The focus is on indigenous grape varieties, some of which have been revitalized and transformed after years of indifference. This column highlights three of the several interesting regions.

Abruzzo is notable for its mountains, national parks, and Adriatic coast. But its wines haven’t received the attention they deserve. Fattoria La Valentina, is one of the producers dedicated to elevating the quality and status of Abruzzo wines. To this end, La Valentina produces only local plantings of montepulciano d’abruzzo, trebbiano d’abruzzo, and pecorino, with all its estates farmed organically or undergoing conversion. The 2016 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo ($15) is a fine value that justifies the effort. 

I also was impressed by the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo from Azienda Agricola Binomio, a collaboration of La Valentina winemaker Sabatino Di Properzio and Stefano Inama (winemaker of Inama in the Veneto). In 2000, they planted a high elevation site near the Majella National Park with low-yielding vines known as the so-called “Africa Clone” (the clusters are an odd shape reminiscent of the African continent). The 2015 Riserva ($52) is a modern style wine with aspirations to world class recognition. It is ripe with mature tannins but evokes rusticity. 

When visualizing Italy as a boot, Puglia is the heel. And Masseria Li Veli is notable of course for its wines but also for its work to reclaim a historic property, known as a masseria – an ancient farmhouse that was converted to a winery in the late 19th century – and transforming it into a state-of-the-art operation dedicated to producing sustainably farmed native varieties. The result is another round of flavorful, good value wines: an ebullient 2018 Primitivo “Orion” ($15) and a hardy, spicy 2018 Li Veli Salice Salentino “Passamante”($15).

In addition to Li Veli, the current owners the Falvo family founded the “ASKOS” project with the goal of rediscovering ancient Puglian varieties. The wines with this label are produced exclusively from ancient indigenous grapes to honor the region’s history with these unique grapes. I especially enjoyed a fresh, juicy 2018 Susumaniello ($21) and a crisp, aromatic 2019 Verdeca ($20).

The theme of a revival of indigenous grapes particularly applies to Sicily. And the Tasca family, one of Sicily’s oldest winemaking family’s, has been at the forefront of preserving and promoting these local grapes since the 1830’s. With five estates, Tasca d’Almerita also is passionate about sustainability both in the vineyards and inside the winery. Principles include efficient use and conservation of natural resources, low-impact environmental strategies, environmental protection and biodiversity, the wellness of workers, and the health of consumers. 

Tenuta Regaleali estate, located within the Contea di Sclafani (in the inland Sicilian countryside southeast of Palermo) is the family’s home base. It has been in the Tasca family for almost two centuries. Under the Tenuta Regaleali label, they produce a dizzying array of fine values: 

• 2017 Perricone “Guarnaccio” ($20) Guarnaccio is a local name for perricone, which was once widely planted across Sicily but fell out of favor due to phylloxera and increased investment in international grapes. Traditionally used as an important component of blends, usually with nero d’avola, this shows appeal as a varietal wine with strong tannins, high acidity and subtle earthiness. 
• 2018 Catarratto “Antisa” ($22) An ancient grape and a late ripener (“antisa” translates to “waiting” in local dialect) has been one of the grapes in Marsala wines, Tasca d’Almerita sources Catarratto from a high-elevation site, around 3,000 feet. Antisa highlights the grape’s naturally high acidity and ability to create a fuller bodied wine using no oak. 
• 2016 Nero d’Avola “Lamùri” ($20) Lamùri translates to “love” in the local Sicilian dialect, this 100 percent nero d’avola wine, is fresh, elegant, and full of finesse; a fine example of why I like Nero d’Avola so much. 
• 2018 Le Rose ($15) pink wine made from nerello mascalese. This is no trend-seeking rosato as it has been produced since 1961. It is delightfully high acid and quite full for a pink wine. 
• 2018 Grillo “Cavallo delle Fate” ($20) an ancient variety that is a spontaneous cross between zibbibo and catarratto, grillo, which means “cricket” in Italian, is historically known as an important grape used in the production of Marsala but is also incredibly dynamic as a dry varietal wine as this wine evidences. 
• 2018 Bianco ($15) a blend of native inzolia, grecanico, catarratto and chardonnay, this is well-rounded with a crisp acidity that makes for an easy-to-drink white wine. 
• 2016 Nero d’Avola ($15) fermented in stainless steel and aged in large oak barrels, this red is aromatic, peppery, and very fresh. 

More recently, the Tasca family has ventured to other historic sites on the island. One is the high elevation vineyards surrounding Mount Etna (the tallest, most active volcano in Europe), an area that has gained renewed attention from many producers in recent years. in 2007, they founded Tenuta Tascante (a portmanteau of Tasca + Etna) with estate vineyards focused on the native varietals of nerello mascalese and carricante.  The 2016 Nerello Mascalese “Ghiaia Nera” ($21) the volcanic, sandy, calcium-rich slopes of Mount Etna, generate a dark wine with balanced acidity, floral aromas, and bountiful tannins. 

2017 Carricante “Buonora” ($21) Carricante is an ancient white grape indigenous to Mount Etna that delivers wines with salty citrus qualities and minty herbal notes. It is considered a rediscovered varietal, even though it’s existed for over a thousand years on the island and possesses a high natural acidity. This one is a really fine example.

Regaleali also acquired two estates on smaller neighboring islands, Tenuta Whitaker (on the ancient island of Mozia and Sallier de La Tour in the Monreale) and Tenuta Capofaro (on Salina in the Aeolian archipelago). 

One result of the Tenuta Whitaker project (a collaborative effort with the Whitaker Foundation to reestablish the historical vineyards as they would have been planted by Joseph Whitaker, a British settler who purchased Mozia in the 19th century) is the 2018 Mozia Grillo ($22). Grillo is a traditional blending grape that is a cross between moscato and catarratto. Mozia is a heritage site that houses an active archeological dig and a study of the Phoenecian settlement dating back to 800 BCE. This is a lovely wine. 

In 2002, the Tasca family founded Tenuta Capofaro with the purchase of malvasia vineyards on the island of Salina. The estate vineyards, which lead from the mountains to the sea, surround the family’s five-star resort where visitors can enjoy the wines paired to local cuisine and more. A highlight of their current production is the 2018 Didyme ($26). It is wonderfully fresh and elegant. 

While Chianti is the best-known Tuscan wine, there are many other fascinating options from Tuscany well worth your attention. Interestingly, most still use sangiovese (Chianti’s signature grape) as their foundation. 

Your first choice should be Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, which is produced around the town of Montepulciano south of Siena. Though not as well-known as Chianti or Brunello di Montalcino (produced around the nearby town of Montacino), it can be good value quality alternative.

The wines must contain at least 70 percent sangiovese (known locally as prugnolo gentile) blended with other local varieties like canaiolo nero and mammolo. Generally, Vino Nobile presents refreshing, vibrant red fruit with hints of earth and spice. With gentle tannins, it offers easy drinking and versatile food matching.

A relative newcomer to the commune, acquiring its first vineyards in 1961, Poliziano, which farms its vineyards organically, is a good place to look. The (2016, $30) sports additions of colorino, canaiolo and merlot and offers bright black cherry and plum, with notes of earth, vanilla, toasty oak, spice, and licorice in a solid frame with polished tannins. Aged for 2 years, at least 1 year in oak barrels, it needs a year or two to reach its peak.

Poliziano also produces a Rosso di Montepulciano (2017, $17), a lower priced version of Vino Nobile made with added doses of various local varieties. The wine is aged in oak barrels for 1 year yielding a soft, balanced palate of plum and cherry, with hints of earth and leather.

At the other end of the Poliziano spectrum is the 2015 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano “Asinone” ($63), a single vineyard wine considered the epitome of the estate. With tiny additions of canaiolo and merlot, its succulent, deep berry fruit comes with vanilla, toast and notes of leather, earth, and spice, delivered in a rich, robust, yet polished palate with fine-grained tannins. This one should evolve nicely for several years. 

For a region that is grounded in so much history and tradition, Tuscany also has become a center of innovation over the last several decades. Ever hear of a “Super Tuscan”? It was in Chianti in the 1970s where the “Super Tuscans” (not an official designation) emerged as a reaction to what some considered too rigid traditional regulations for making Chianti wine and the declining quality of much Chianti of the time. Although use of Bordeaux varieties are the most common additions, experimentation with other French grapes, like syrah also has gained interest. Many of these wines are quite expensive and considered among the best wines Italy has to offer. 

Super Tuscans also may be made from a single variety like sangiovese or Cabernet Sauvignon, or a blend of different indigenous grapes. A good example of this latter type is the 2015 Badia a Cotibuono “Montebello” ($61). Wine has been made at what is now known as Badia a Cotibuono (Abbey of Good Harvest) for nearly a thousand years and possibly as far back as Etruscan and Roman times. The same family has owned the property since 1846. It is one of the region’s premier Chianti Classico producers. A field blend of nine indigenous local grape varieties (mammolo, sangiovese, canaiolo, ciliegiolo, colorino, foglia tonda, malvasia nera, sanforte and pugnitello), Montebello is produced from the family’s organic vineyards and vinified using only natural yeasts. It is beautifully intense and aromatic, with cherry, blackberry, spice, and licorice, presented with depth and complexity.

And then there is the Tuscan coast. Winegrowing here curiously gained increased attention mainly since the 1970s as the “Super Tuscans” emerged. I say curiously because the first of what became known as the “Super Tuscans” was Sassacaia, initially produced in 1944 on an estate near the town of Bolgheri a few miles from the Tuscan coast and sold commercially beginning 1968. It is comprised of 85 percent cabernet sauvignon and 15 percent cabernet franc.

The Bolgheri region soon became a frontier of innovation, experimenting with single variety wines, French/Italian blends, and more modern winemaking techniques. Ornellaia, first release in 1985, is considered another of the original “Super Tuscans” from the Bolgheri region. It is a cuvée of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc & petit verdot. At around $240 per bottle, it is out of reach for most. 

However, Le Serre Nuove dell’ Ornellaia, its sibling introduced in 1997 (described as a “second wine” in the Bordeaux tradition in that its grapes come from younger vines on the Ornellaia estate), is an affordable alternative by comparison. The 2015 ($75), is a fine wine in its own right. It features more merlot in its blend with cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and petit verdot. It combines concentrated dark fruits, toasted vanilla, spice and savory notes, with a depth of flavor, a rich palate, approachable tannins, and aging potential. This is another wine that will evolve nicely over several years. 

Also in Bolgheri, Aia Vecchia is the winery of a family of growers over several generations who decided to bottle their harvest about twenty-three years ago. The winery focuses on Bordeaux varietals to produce a portfolio of small-lot, high-quality blends. The 2017 “Sor Ugo” ($40) is 57 percent cabernet sauvignon, 22 percent merlot, 18 percent cabernet franc, and 3 percent petit Verdot. It drinks with enticing red and black fruit compote, smoky notes; it’s powerful and concentrated, with firm but friendly tannins.

Remember what I wrote earlier that it was in Chianti in the 1970s where the “Super Tuscans” emerged. We have “Tignanello”, first vintage 1971, as a blend of sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc, to thank for that. Current vintages sell for around $135. But not all “Super Tuscans” are expensive. Production has evolved over the last forty years to the point where many estates craft quite good wines at quite affordable prices. These next three wines (each from a highly respected Chianti producer) are especially good values. 

2015 Ruffino “Modus” ($25) introduced in 1997; one-third each sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon and merlot; lavish cherry and plum, with oak spice and vanilla delivered in a viscous palate, finishing with solid tannins. 

2016 Tenuta Frescobaldi di Castiglioni ($25) a blend of mostly cabernet sauvignon and merlot with a small amount of cabernet franc and sangiovese from the family’s 700-year-old Castiglioni estate; mixed berries, earthy and herbal notes, soft but energetic texture.

2014 Selvapiana “Villa Petrognano” ($21) produced from organic vineyards in the Pomino subzone (historically known for the prevalence of French varieties near the winery’s base in Chianti Rufina); sangiovese, merlot and cabernet sauvignon combine for a lithe, smoky wine balanced with lively red fruits. 

2017 Renzo Masi “Erta e China” ($16) also fashioned with grapes from the Rufina area, this half sangiovese and half cabernet sauvignon wine smacks of crisp cherry and spice.

Finally, in recent years the southwestern Tuscan area of Maremma, which had a historical reputation as much associated with cows and horses as grapes also has begun to generate interest. One of the most notable new denominations is Morellino di Scansano. By law the wines must be at least 85 percent sangiovese (known as morellino locally) from vineyards around the village of Scansano. Poliziano established a presence here with its Lohsa project in 1998. Its 2017 ($16) contains 15 percent ciliegiolo and exhibits earthy, smoky dark fruits with rustic tannins that resolve nicely with time. 

As I worked through my recent tastings of Italian wines, I couldn’t help but have my mind wander thinking about the whole country being shut down. I began to think of my tastings as a virtual tour, since I nor most anyone else can travel there.

I start my virtual vinous tour of Italy with Tuscany, specifically Chianti – the region and the wine. 

The primary grape in Chianti wines is sangiovese. Typically, it yields wines with fresh, medium bodied wines with lively cherry and sometimes plum, currant, and raspberry and a sense of elegance. Sangiovese is often blended with small percentages of native varieties like canaiolo, colorino, malvasia nera and ciliegiolo and lately (under loosened production rules) cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and petit Verdot. Complexity is revealed in forest-like notes, and sometimes white pepper and a hint of star anise. enticing floral aromas herb, baking spice clove licorice vibrant, firm, linear palate and fresh acidity balanced, silky, smooth tannins.

Compared to the quality available, the wines are exceptional values. Those labeled simply Chianti are good everyday wines. The designation Chianti Classico indicates the wine comes the original zone and is often considered to produce the best wines. Wines labeled Riserva usually are selections of the producer’s finest fruit and receive extended time maturing in barrel and bottle before release. I also found several wines from the Chianti Rufina zone, which is generally considered to be the best sub-region after Chianti Classico.

OUTSTANDING

2016 Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva ($36) organically grown and vinified grapes from this historic (founded 1051) “Abbey of Good Harvest” estate; concentrated, lively fruit; graceful, elegant, balanced, nicely integrated, smooth tannins 

2015 Selvapiana Chianti Rufina “Vigneto Bucerchiale” ($36) another property with a history dating to medieval times, now certified organic; 100 percent sangiovese, exuberant, minty, woodsy, earthy notes, herbs, smoke, licorice; elegant, refined tannins

EXCELLENT

2013 Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione ($70) yet another medieval estate (founded in 1141); a selection of the best grapes from the estate vineyard; intense, bright fruits, toasty oak, mocha, licorice; firm, luscious palate, assertive tannins 

2013 Nipozzano Vecchie Viti Chianti Rufina ($30) from another 11th century estate (see a pattern here?), follows a tradition of reserving a private collection for each newborn child in the family from the oldest vines (“vecchie viti”); elegant, polished, complex

2015 Brolio Chianti Classico Riserva ($30) sunny fruit, spice, mocha, smoky, integrated and balanced, tight structure, graceful tannins

2015 Querciabella Chianti Classico ($30) founded in 1974; made with 100% estate grown organic sangiovese grapes; creamy oak, espresso, tangy ripe fruit, earthy, herbal, rounded finish 

VERY GOOD

2014 Ruffino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Riserva Ducale Oro ($41) founded 140 years ago, now one of the most recognizable Chianti names; deep, ripe, intense, oaky 

2014 Nipozzano Chianti Rufina Riserva ($26) vibrant, juicy, woodsy, hints of leather and spice cinnamon 

2016 Selvapiana Chianti Rufina ($19) high toned, forest notes, graceful, licorice

2016 Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico “RS” ($16) lively fruit, dusty tannins, herbal, earthy

2017 Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico ($20), fresh straightforward, hint of tobacco, touch fruity on finish 

2018 Renzo Masi Chianti Rufina ($12) entry level Chianti, made using grapes from around Chianti but mostly Rufina; typically fresh, accessible; ideal for daily drinking

As I noted in my last column, my recent California Cabernet Sauvignon tastings were dominated by Napa Valley, both in quality and the number of wines tasted. Although the valley has a long agricultural history that has little to do with Cabernet Sauvignon, you wouldn’t know it if you just looked at the last forty years. Over this time, “Napa Cab” has gone from strength to strength. From winning the famous Paris tasting in 1976 to becoming one of the most prestigious wines in the world.

Also, as the region has evolved, numerous “sub-appellations” (such as Mt. Veeder, Rutherford, Howell Mountain, Stags Leap, Coombsville and Pritchard Hill, Spring Mountain, Atlas Peak, St. Helena, and Oak Knoll) have emerged to display localized character offering special appeal. The only drawback is prices continue to escalate. 

Still, the wines below deliver the expected Napa Valley style and quality. My favorites displayed firm backbone and vigor, with mature fruit (often blackberry and black currant), classic herbal qualities, and notes of vanilla or toasted oak resulting in a whole that coheres all of its parts. Others were super ripe and broad mouthed but with enough vitality to appeal to my sensibilities. 

I have listed recommended wines in order of my preference.

2015 Chappellet Pritchard Hill ($235) from a winery that has been producing highly prized Napa Valley wines since 1967, Pritchard Hill is its flagship and one of Napa’s iconic Cabernets. Beyond most our budgets, there is no questioning it is outstanding. Everything about this mountain grown wine is large scaled, with concentrated dark berries, richness and complexity throughout. It has the structure and savory complexity to evolve and drink well for at least 20 years. 

2015 Chappellet Hideaway Vineyard ($125) with grapes from the rocky slopes of the Pritchard Hill estate, it is nearly as good as the flagship at half the price. Juicy and lively, yet luscious and satiny, it is wonderfully integrated.

2016 Ackerman Napa Valley ($95) made with grapes from the family’s certified organic Stonehaven Estate in Coombsville in southeastern Napa, the wine’s deep aromas and flavors of cedar, mint and cocoa integrate nicely with lively baking spice, vibrant, and firm tannins. 

2016 Duckhorn Napa Valley ($78) making quintessential Napa Valley wines since 1978, this offers intensity of fruit and solid tannin with herbs and anise along with hints of tobacco and spice. 

2016 Mi Sueno Lynn’s Vineyard ($95) from an estate owned vineyard on Mt. Veeder, Mexican-American immigrants Rolando (who has made wine at some of Napa’s most prestigious wineries) and Lorena (who co-owns the winery and their vineyard management company). Character reminiscent of fruit compote incorporates nicely with toasty oak and tobacco accents in a sleek texture. 

2017 Ehlers Estate ($55) from the winery’s estate grown organic vineyard in Napa’s St. Helena sub-appellation, minty, herbal plum rich and solid. All of the proceeds from the sale of its wines support heart research. 

2016 Gamble Napa Valley ($60) from a family of Napa Valley farmers since 1916 now making their own wine, expect a friendly wine with vibrant fruit and notes of spice and tobacco, finishing with solid tannins.

2016 Mount Veeder Napa Valley ($44) named after the sub-appellation on the southwestern edge of the valley, fruit from its high elevation vineyards yielded this good value wine with a smooth and viscous palate delivering chocolate and toasted oak. 

2016 Mount Veeder Napa Valley ($44) named after the sub-appellation on the southwestern edge of the valley, fruit from its high elevation vineyards yielded this good value wine with a smooth and viscous palate delivering chocolate and toasted oak. 

2017 Silver Ghost Napa Valley ($35) this newly launched Cabernet specialist named after a great grandfather’s favorite car, the 1909 Rolls-Royce Silver Ghost, has combined fruit from Calistoga and Yountville vineyards to produce an outstanding value.

2017 Acumen Mountainside ($65) from two organically farmed estate vineyards on Atlas Peak in the southwestern hills of the valley, this one’s rich but austere, with plump fruit and herbal, smoky notes finishing dry.

2016 Charles Krug Napa Valley ($39) the valley’s oldest winery, established in 1858, and still producing quality like this ripe, juicy, nicely restrained and centered wine; a good value.

2015 Ladera Estate ($60) estate grown grapes from high elevation vineyards on Mount Veeder and Howell Mountain yield a robust, dense wine with spicy herbs and juicy red fruit followed by firm tannins.

2016 J. McClelland Napa Valley ($45) winemakers Mitch Cosentino and Paul Scotto created this winery to honor long-time Napa Valley veteran John McClelland. This wine shows deep fruit, herbal accents, and a firm texture.  

2016 Black Stallion Estate ($28) the Napa property of the Indelicato family, who came to California in 1924 and today is one of the largest wine companies in the U.S. located on the Silverado Trail in the Oak Knoll district of southeastern Napa; this good value offers a fairly rich, fruit forward character with a smooth but firm finish. 

Even as consumers experiment more with variety in their wine choices, Cabernet Sauvignon continues to reign as California’s premier wine. Maybe that is because as a group, the wines are better than ever. Other reviewers have noted this and it was born out in my recent tastings. 

And as growers and winemakers learn more about the best conditions for cultivating the grape and the best practices for elevating those grapes into wine, these are yielding wines of exquisite balance – rich and ripe but resolved with definition and freshness. 

Napa Valley is the undisputed leader of California Cabernet Sauvignon wines and it was in my tastings. But prices generally are higher than comparable wines from other regions. Luckily, there also are good value Cabernets (defined here as under $30) available from other regions. These wines are the focus of this column. My next column will feature Napa Valley.

First, there were a couple good ones carrying a California designation, meaning they contain grapes from multiple regions. Interestingly, they are from two large wine companies: 2017 Storypoint ($20), vinted by Gallo, shows forward fruit and 2016 Silver Palm ($22), part of the Jackson family of wines, is rather full and firm.

I found several from Lodi, the region in central California with a reputation for a good quality/price relationship. The call words for the wines below are a sweetness, richness and softness. 

• 2016 The Federalist ($18), sporting Benjamin Franklin on the label, sports cherry and vanilla 
• 2017 Mettler Estate Grown ($25) offers plum and blackberry 
• 2015 Michael David “Earthquake” ($26) presents smoke and tobacco to offset deep fruit

I also was impressed with several wines from Paso Robles on the Central Coast, California’s most underappreciated cabernet sauvignon region. The 2017 Concannon ($19) tilts to fresh red berries finishing with a slight, appealing char. The other three wines were all from J. Lohr, one of Paso Robles pioneer wine producers dating to 1974. This family owned operation produces reliable quality at various price levels. 

The 2016 Seven Oaks ($17) is a perennial good value. Enjoy its sweet, lush fruit. Then there was the 2016 Hilltop ($35), from high elevation, sustainably farmed vineyards. It is toasty with succulent fruit, with an herbal tinge and oaky note, finishing with a sleek texture and crisp tannin. And recently J. Lohr created “Signature” (2016, $100) as its entry into high-end wine. And it’s a successful one. It’s extracted, powerful, and rich with succulent fruit, and oaky espresso, spice and savory qualities. 

My tastings also turned up a few good options from California’s northern wine regions. Concannon’s Mother Vine Livermore Valley Reserve (2016, $44) is produced with “Concannon Clones” that have long been a standard for wineries throughout the state. Its laden with plum and red fruits, a hint of tobacco, and nicely balanced with a lush palate and easy tannins. 

The 2017 Benziger Sonoma Valley Reserve ($40) is made with organic grapes and delivers scents of wild herbs and green olive to preview flavors of blackberry with powdery tannins. Finally, the 2016 Shannon Ridge “Ovis” ($60), from Lake County’s High Valley, is quite seductive with lots of fruit accented with menthol and tobacco followed with a sleek palate closing with grippy tannins.