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PEOPLE’S PALATE WINERY PROFILE: BONNY DOON VINEYARD

RANDALL GRAHM’S AND BONNY DOON’S QUEST FOR TERROIRISTIC SELF EXPRESSION BEARS FRUIT

 

Over the last few decades, the concept of terroir and its influence on the grapes grown in a given location and ultimately the wine from those grapes has been the subject of an enormous amount of discussion and as much debate. When I first saw mentions of the subject, it was mostly presented in terms of the geography and geology of the soil in which the grapevines are grown. Soon after, conversations incorporated the environmental conditions and climate. Then it was expanded to include factors influenced by humans – particularly the grape growing and winemaking.

 

Nowadays most commentators agree a “terroir driven wine” ultimately reflects the sum of the natural conditions of its place of origin and the human decisions in the vineyard and the cellar that attempt to express the unique characteristics of that location. Actually, beyond that it seems to me the extent to which a wine accomplishes that ideal is a result of a still poorly understood alchemy in which the wine is greater than the sum of its influences.

 

Enter Randall Grahm, a singular winemaking personality known as much for his gift at turning a phrase and clever prose incorporating literary and philosophical references. Mr. Grahm founded Bonny Doon winery thirty years ago and was one of the original “Rhone Rangers” (proponents of California wines made with grapes typical of France’s Rhone Valley). He has long been a proponent of “terroir driven” wines but to many seemed to have lost his way for a period when he focused more on growing his wine business (ultimately to nearly 500,000 cases a year).

 

Now, he has recommitted himself and his operation to making (actually I think he would prefer I say “shepherding” or “facilitating” or maybe “translating”) wines that reflect the vineyard source. A key decision in this regard he says is his decision to only use biodynamically farmed grapes and rely on indigenous yeasts for fermentation. There still are myriad practices employed in the cellar to achieve the style of wine Mr. Grahm prefers (which I would describe as more European – higher acidity, dryer fruit flavors, more earthy and herbal components) but he seems genuinely dedicated to decisions he thinks will produce wines optimally characteristic of their origin.

 

And the quality of the wines, at least based on my recent tasting, more than justify his approach. He still is focusing on Rhone varietals and now also “lesser-known varietals” like the Albarino reviewed below.

 

 

For the whites, the 2011 Albarino ($18) from the Central Coast vineyards Casa Grande near Soledad and Jesperson Ranch in San Louis Obispo is fun to drink. True to its varietal characteristics (the grape is mostly known for its wines from Spain and Portugal), this wine is fairly aromatic and quite lively in the mouth. I enjoyed its peach, melon and lime fruit, and a creamy note that adds weight.

 

The 2010 Le Cigare Blanc Beeswax Vineyard Arroyo Seco ($26) also is quite fragrant with floral, lemon, pear, and spice notes. This Rhône-style blend of roussanne and grenache blanc comes from a shielded from the cool Pacific winds by the Santa Lucia Mountains vineyard is medium-bodied, with a lush texture (possibly from the full malolactic fermentation) and intriguing mineral characteristics.

 

 

On to the reds, the 2010 Contra ($16) is described as an “Old Vine Field Blend” implying the vineyard sources are planted with multiple grapes and all the fruit is harvested and vinified together. About 2/3 carignane (old, nongrafted, dry-farmed, head-trained vines from Contra Costa County’s Gonsalves Vineyard) and 1/3 syrah (from Santa Maria Valley’s Bien Nacido Vineyard) with splashes of grenache, roussanne, grenache blanc, and mourvèdre, this is similar to a wine we might find from the south of France. Regardless, it is a fine value with mushroom aromas and nice ripe red and black fruits, a touch of licorice and spice followed by a medium body, supple texture and fresh acidity.

 

The 2009 Ca’ del Solo Nebbiolo Monterey County ($45) from the biodynamic Ca’ del Solo Estate Vineyard is rather pricey but it does deliver the goods. On the nose, there are pure red cherry, lightly floral and smoke notes, and maybe even a creamy quality. In the mouth, an underlying element of earth with a touch of fennel is the foundation for a juicy, lighter-bodied, brightly fruited wine.

 

The Chateauneuf-du-Pape style 2008 Le Cigare Volant ($38) has become somewhat iconic since its inception 25 years ago. It was one of the first such wines from one of the first Rhone Rangers. This vintage is 45 percent grenache (mostly from Ca’ del Solo estate) and 30 percent syrah (mostly from Bien Nacido vineyard), with smaller proportions of mourvedre, cinsault, and carignane. It shows tangy plum and hints of cherries and anise. I sense lightly dusty, woodsy notes in the nose. There is similar fruit in the broad mouth, while it closes with powdery, gravelly tannins.

The 2008 Le Cigare Volant Reserve en Bonbonne ($65) is a really interesting wine. It is a selection of the Cigare Volant separated to finish aging in 5-gallon glass bottles (called carboys or “bonbonnes”) rather than barrels or foudres. Possibly because of the nature of this container, particularly its reductive (oxygen free) nature, it does seem to have a bit more structure and taste a little fresher. Still, the bouquet presents evolved notes of dried berries and herbs with a pleasant suggestion of gravel. It is nicely concentrated and dry and finishes with noticeable tannic grip.

 

I would say these two wines are of roughly equal quality, although I preferred the Bonbonne. They’re just made in different styles. Maybe they should be thought of as different expressions of the vineyard sources as interpreted by the winemaker.

 

There also were three Syrahs in my tasting. One, the 2009 Le Pousseur Syrah ($25) was the only wine that didn’t impress me much. There was nothing wrong with its earthy, savory qualities and black cherry fruit. It just seemed rather one-dimensional.

 

In contrast, the 2008 Syrah Alamo Creek Vineyard ($35) had a lot going on. It opened with enticing red fruit. Then it followed with smoky dried herbs and a spice note that for some reason made me wonder if they came from the grape, the barrels in which the wine was aged, or the vineyard (which Grahm says is planted in an old riverbed in San Louis Obispo County). It had a similar flavor profile, with deep fruit, a touch of anise and savory, peppery, meaty flavors. This is all packaged in a solid structure, with distinct dryness, finishing with lively tannins.

 

Finally, the 2008 Syrah Bien Nacido Vineyard ($42) was the star of my tasting. From the cool climate, older vines and calcareous soils of Bien Nacido’s X-block, this is a fantastic wine. It was generous with its tart cherry and juicy berry fruit. Peppery, earthy and meaty elements emerged with time in the glass, all nicely balanced with fresh acidity. As with the best Syrahs, this wine deftly balanced power and elegance.

 

Based on the wines in my tasting, this partnership between the winemakers, wine growers, grapevines, and vineyards is bearing fine fruit and I look forward to following its further development.

 

 

NOTE: All photos obtained from Bonny Doon website.

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WEEKLY WINE RECOMMENDATIONS: MAKE YOUR VALENTINE’S DAY SPARKLE

Whether you are looking for a wine to impress your partner or just something good but moderately priced to enjoy together, your best bet this Valentine’s Day is a bottle of bubbly. Sparkling wine is ideal for special occasions and of course bubbly will make any occasion special. I’ve got some worthy suggestions to enliven your time together and I don’t mean just as a prelude to the evening but to enhance the enjoyment of your meal.

 

 

Any reason to drink Champagne is welcome and a classic like Nicolas Feuillatte’s Brut ($37) – 40% pinot noir, 40% pinot meunier, 20% chardonnay – with its refreshing notes of toasty apple and pear and a luscious structure is always a good choice. It might seem a bit cliché to recommend rosé but the Champagne Rosé ($49) – 60%pinot noir, 30% pinot meunier, 10% chardonnay – with its salmon-pink color, tangy red fruits and creamy texture is undeniable.

 

If you are looking for something sweet, the new “Sweet Sparklings” line from the Italian producer Caposaldo (known for its frizzante “Moscato”) is a good option. With three alternatives – each bottle is a different color, blend and level of sweetness but all are just $16 – these are sure to please the eye, palate and wallet.

 

  • Sweet Moscato (blue bottle) is 100% moscato bianco with succulent pear, peach and treademark spice aromas and flavors.
  • Sweet Pink Moscato (pink bottle) is 55% merlot, 45% moscato bianco emphasizes berries, with flowery and herbal notes.
  • Sweet Red Sparkling (red bottle) is a lightly sweet blend of 55% malvasia nera, 45% merlot is quite aromatic offering strong plum and red berry aromas and flavors.

 

If you want dry and modest price, try a Cava from Paul Cheneau. Owned by Giró Ribot, one of Spain’s preeminent family-owned Cava producers. I recently tasted five of the line that are worth your consideration. Like other Cava they feature indigenous Spanish grapes and are made using the traditional bottle fermented method. What distinguishes Paul Cheneau from other Cava is its French influence. A French winemaker created the brand and the wines do seem to reflect more of the elegance and balance generally expected of French sparklers.

 

The first three are 45% macabeo, 40% xarello and 15% parellada. For Valentine’s Day, the Lady of Spain Brut ($13) has to be your first choice, if for no other reason than its dramatic packaging showing a painting of a woman in a red dress on a yellow background. It is bottle aged at least 12 months and is fresh and fruity, with nice apple and citrus, yet well structured with a soft, fresh finish. If you can’t find that, though, don’t hesitate to pick up the Brut ($14), also bottle aged at least a year or the Brut Reserva ($16), bottle aged 24 months. The Brut is crisp and toasty with citrus fruit. The Brut Reserva is more elegant with succulent and vibrant apple, yet a smooth mouthfeel.

 

There also are two other good fizzy alternatives. The Brut Rosé ($15) is a blend of 85% trepat and 15% pinot noir. It is bottle aged up to two years and delivers nice red cherry in a lush but lively frame. For something a bit sweet, the Demi Sec ($15) – 45% Macabeo, 40% Xarello, 10% Chardonnay, 5% Parellada – is bottle aged two years and shows toasty notes and lively peach fruit.

 

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NORTHWEST WINES WELL WORTH CONSUMER ATTENTION

While most press and consumer attention is devoted to California wines, there are a great many great wines from Oregon and Washington we all should be seeking out. This article is but a brief introduction to a few of those.

 

Wine grapes have been grown in Oregon since the mid-1800’s but it really wasn’t until the 1960’s when the seeds, so to speak, were sown for the development of the modern Oregon wine industry. There were little more than a dozen wineries at the time trying to find their way in the wine world. Now there are over 400 and the state has become synonymous with world class Pinot Noir, which is by far the most common wine. Still, the industry is characterized by mostly smaller, family owned operations, certainly in comparison to California and even to some extent Washington. The largest winery in the state makes a little over 250,000 cases, with just about two million produced in the whole state.

 

Ponzi Vineyards, referring to founders Dick and Nancy Ponzi and now second generation winemaker Louisa Ponzi, was one of the pioneers of modern day winemaking in Oregon when their estate was planted in 1969. Beyond the estate vineyard, the family now owns several vineyards in the nearby Chehalem Mountains and continues its position as a leader in Oregon wine.

 

Ponzi’s Willamette Valley Pinot Noir has long been a reliable example of Oregon Pinot. The 2009 ($35) reflects good balance and length with juicy red fruits and hints of cola, spice and a touch of earth. The entry-level 2010 Tavola ($25), made from younger Ponzi vines and fruit from nearby growers, is a bit lighter but a very good value with its characteristic pinot aromas and flavors, silky palate, and lively acidity.

 

But Ponzi really showcases what its vineyards can do with its limited production, single vineyard bottlings. The 2010 Aurora Vineyard Pinot Noir benefits from its source’s location atop the Chehalem Mountains, 20-year-old vines, and southeastern exposure. Its ripe cherry and cranberry aromas and flavors are given intrigue with baking spices and the well-delineated frame is balanced with polished tannins. The 2010 Avellana Vineyard’s hillside orientation, younger vines and northwestern exposure yield a fresh and vibrant wine. This is juicy with tart red fruits, a slight herbal, invigorating acidity and supple tannins. I have to admit I was shocked when I saw these wines’ price – $100 – but there is no doubting these are excellent Oregon Pinot Noirs.

 

Dick Erath was another Oregon wine pioneer, having founded Erath Winery in the Dundee Hills in 1968. Today, winemaker Gary Horner produces over a dozen Pinot Noirs for Erath in a variety of price ranges. At a recent tasting of several of Gary’s wines I was especially impressed with the 2009 Prince Hill Vineyard ($45). He told us this vineyard is notable for its temperate climate and multiple slopes and exposures. The wine’s juicy red fruits, earth and spice notes and velvety texture were especially appealing. The 2009 Prince Hill 777 Clone ($50) also was quite nice and actually fuller bodied and firmer but also with succulent fruit. The other wine that really got me was the 2009 Leland Vineyard ($50). This vineyard has a south facing slope and cooler climate than Prince Hill. The wine was more elegant with deep, pure fruit and an enticingly silky texture.

 


In 1993, Bill and Cathy Stoller (who already were involved in Oregon wine as co-owners of Chehalem) purchased the Stoller family turkey farm and, realizing the potential of the rocky, low yielding soils, converted the property to a vineyard – Stoller Family Estate. The 2009 SV Estate Pinot Noir ($45) opens with enticing cinnamon spice and black cherry. It impacts the palate rather firmly but flows smoothly over the tongue. Although winemaker Melissa Burr crafts several more expensive special selections, this estate wine from “Senior Vines” is the wine that best reflects this unique property.

 


One of the things that really surprised me in my recent tasting was the high quality of the Oregon Chardonnays that also were included. Although Oregon deservedly has gained attention for Pinot Gris in recent years, this experience has convinced me to give more respect to Oregon’s Chardonnays.Ponzi’s 2010 Aurora Chardonnay ($60) has a lovely floral nose with citrus, pear, spice and what strikes me as a leesy note. There is similar fruit in the mouth, along with a rich texture yet vibrant acidity. The 2010 Avellana Chardonnay $60 is tight, focused and appealing, with the pear and citrus flavors rounded by a touch of spicy oak, lingering sweet lemon and apple, and a refreshing juicy finish.I was really blown away by the 2009 Stoller SV Estate Chardonnay ($28) especially at the price. Scents of pear, apple, and vanilla, with a light baked bread note lead into a vibrant but rich, creamy textured wine. It is bursting with flavor and character. The 2010 Reserve Chardonnay ($28) also is quite nice, with a lush mouthfeel and lively acidity balancing tropical fruit and a hint of spice.

 

Washington, Oregon’s neighbor to the north, has an even longer recorded history with wine grapes dating to 1825. But, similar to Oregon, it really wasn’t until the 1960’s and 1970’s when Washington’s wine industry began to show signs of its world class potential. Still, by 1981, there were only nineteen wineries. But by 1996, there were eighty, then 360 in 2005, and 740 in 2011! (SOURCE: Washington Wine Commission) Today, Washington is the second largest premium wine producer in the United States.

 

Every consideration of Washington’s modern wine history has to begin with Chateau Ste. Michelle, which actually dates to 1934 but really established itself as the most influential pioneer of Washington commercial winemaking in the 1970’s when famed enologist Andre Tchelistcheff spent time consulting with the winery. Today, the wine company encompasses more than two-dozen estates and partnerships around the world. In this column, I highlight three of those projects.

 

 

Spring Valley Vineyard produces wine from 100 percent estate-grown fruit in Walla Walla. While Ste. Michelle now owns the label, the original owners, Shari and Dean Derby, continue to own the vineyards. I recommend the two Bordeaux-style blends in this tasting. The 2009 Frederick ($50) is named after Shari Corkrum Derby’s father Frederick Corkrum. This mix of 55 percent cabernet sauvignon and 31 percent merlot, with small amounts of cabernet franc, petit verdot and malbec, sports cherry and berry on the nose and in the mouth. It is highly focused, with hints of oak, and excellent concentration but moderate tannins on the finish. The 2009 Uriah ($50) is named after Shari’s grandfather Uriah Corkrum who farmed in the Walla Walla area in the late 1800’s. Another Bordeaux-style blend, this one is dominated by merlot (54 percent), and cabernet franc (35 percent), with dollops of petit verdot and malbec. It is nicely defined with ripe, cherry and blueberry aromas and flavors. Lively on the palate, it also delivers light touches of herbs and spice and finishes with elegance.

 

 

Col Solare, which translates as “shining hill,” is a partnership between Ste. Michelle Wine Estates and Tuscany’s Marchesi Antinori established in 1995 to produce a world-class Cabernet Sauvignon-based red wine from Columbia Valley fruit. In recent years, the wines have featured more fruit from the Red Mountain sub-appellation and will eventually include fruit from the winery’s Red Mountain estate vineyards. Col Solare quickly established itself as one of the premier Bordeaux-style blends in Washington and the 2008 Col Solare ($70) continues the streak. With 67 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 20 percent Merlot, 10 percent Cabernet Franc, and 3 percent Syrah, this impressive, complex wine combines intense aromas of cherry, herbs, black currant, plum, and dark berries. There is similar luscious fruit in the elegant, yet full-bodied structure and strong but refined tannins mark the finish.

 

Col Solare also produces a second wine called understandably “Shining Hill.” But the 2009 Shining Hill Columbia Valley ($45), a blend of 69 percent cabernet sauvignon and 21 percent merlot with pinches petit verdot, cabernet franc, and syrah, sure delivers more than one would expect from that designation. It displays scents of plum and blackberry fruit, with a touch of mocha and tobacco. Ripe fruits in the mouth are joined by nice oak notes, along with hints of brown spices and cedar. Firm but supple tannins balance the elegant finish.

 

Although now also making other wines, Northstar began in 1994 as
 and remains a Merlot specialist. Since its founding, Northstar helped put Washington State Merlot on the world wine map and these recent vintages demonstrate the winery is still a leading producer of merlot-based wines. The 2008 Merlot Walla Walla Valley ($50) loads up on black fruits and cherries, tobacco and chocolate, accented with a smoky, woodsy note. Similar intense flavors follow with added oak and spice, a solid structure and strong but accessible tannins. The 2008 Merlot Columbia Valley ($40) is spicier and feature more red fruits. It also is more velvety in texture, with fine tannins that make the wine more drinkable now.

 



Cadaretta is a small, family-owned winery in Walla Walla that continues the agricultural history of the Middleton family that goes back over 110 years. The family began growing grapes just 22 years ago and established the winery just five years ago but already is already making its mark. The 2009 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($40) offers assertive red fruit aromas that meld nicely with mild herbal and earthy notes, while an emerging hint of cocoa adds complexity. Juicy red fruits also spread across the mouth with a supple impression and finishes with smooth tannins.

 

 

The Mercer family is now into its fourth generation of farming the Horse Heaven Hills. Mercer Estates is the family-owned winery that emerged in 2005 out of about forty years of grape growing experience, including the original planting of the acclaimed Champoux vineyard. I was really impressed with a couple of white wines from Mercer I tasted recently. The 2010 Riesling Yakima Valley ($15) is dry but enlivened with juicy peach, tropical and citrus flavors and a crisp finish. Just plain delicious. The 2010 Pinot Gris Columbia Valley ($15) also is impressive at the price. Light and Juicy melon and pear aromas and flavors are delivered in a glossy, broad textured, even a bit creamy wine.

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TWO COLD BEERS TO WARM YOUR JANUARY


I sampled two new releases from Deschutes Brewery tonight. Turns out, it’s a pretty good way to spend a cold night in Denver. One of them, Red Chair IPA was striking in that I had tasted last year and my notes tonight were almost the same as then. And that’s a good thing. So, rather than plagiarize myself for a review, I will just quote last years’ (also found here: http://rmpeoplespalate.com/blog/?p=495):

Once in a while, this wine guy gets an opportunity to sample new craft beer releases. I’m happy to have one now to recommend: Red Chair NWPA (Northwest Pale Ale), the new seasonal beer from Deschutes Brewery of Bend, Oregon.

Deschutes says Red Chair (6.2% ABV) is named after the oldest operating lift at Mt. Bachelor. They call it their debut Northwest Pale Ale, though not unlike the last year’s Red Chair IPA. I never tasted the IPA; so, I’ll take their word for it.

This one sits in the glass with a copper color and a loosely foamy head. As I sniff, I pick up hints of citrus, bread, caramel, and herbal lemongrass. Sipping reveals more toast and citrus. Dry, bitter hops emerge but don’t overpower. A malty counterpoint asserts itself then gives way to more hops in the finish.

I relate to it as a cross between an IPA and American pale ale. It is medium bodied and well balanced, with a hoppy personality moderated by malty qualities. I’m told Red Chair began as an experimental beer to test new hops and hopping techniques. Additionally, seven European and domestic malts are key to the formula. The success of the experiment shows in the final product.

Maybe I shouldn’t be surprised Red Chair cleaned house the World Beer Awards.

I also was impressed with Deschutes Hop Henge Experimental IPA. At 10.6 percent alcohol and 95 IBUs, I think this beer (available as a 22 ounce bomber) would be classified as an Imperial IPA/Double IPA, which basically is a stronger, hoppier version of India Pale Ale. And Hop Henge is defined by intensity in both its aromas and flavors. Expect peppery, citusy hops – mostly Cascade and Centennial, with Millennium, Delta, Mosaic, and Citra – and smooth, malty, somewhat caramel flavored malts – Pale, Munich crystal, and Carastan. It drinks with a good backbone of citrus/grapefruit and finishes nicely spicy. Ultimately, this is a powerful but well balanced brew that will keep you alert while you’re drinking but will threaten to put you to a pleasant sleep soon after.

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WHAT’S COLD, DRY, LIGHT AND WHITE ALL OVER … AND JUST IN TIME FOR JANUARY?

PEOPLE’S PALATE WEEKLY WINE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR JANUARY 7, 2013

No, it’s not snow. It’s white wine from France, at least for the purposes of this column.

 

I admit I usually prefer red wines (and Port!) during the cold months but recently I suddenly had a hankering for some crisp whites, cold weather be damned. These wines from Alsace and Loire really hit the spot. So, I thought I’d share them with you. And, keeping in mind your post-holiday bank accounts may be somewhat depleted, all are under $20 a bottle.

 

Something like 92 percent of all Alsatian wine is white. Unlike other French regions, the best wines (those whose appellation of origin is controlled by law, known as A.O.C.) are labeled with the name of the grape variety (and the wine inside is 100 percent). Of particular interest to me, the region is the premier home of my two favorite white grape varieties – riesling (although Germany ranks here, too) and gewürztraminer.

At their best, these wines have excellent fruit intensity, intriguing savory notes, and fine balancing acidity. And Pierre Sparr is one of the best producers. The firm’s entry-level wines (all screw capped) are excellent introductions to the region. The 2011 Riesling ($15) is lightly floral with juicy lime and peach fruit, a stony element and firm acidity. The 2011 Gewurztraminer ($17) delights with intense aromas of tangerine, peach and pear and off dry, textbook lychee flavors, with a touch of anise in a rich, oily texture wine. The 2010 Alsace One ($13) is a blend of muscat, riesling and pinot gris. It is fragrant and floral with lively tropical, apple and mineral notes, good acidity and a crisp finish.

 

At the far west end of the Loire Valley within reach of the Atlantic Ocean’s salty breezes lies the Muscadet appellation. There is much unique about the wines here. Melon de Bourgogne is the only grape variety grown and it is virtually unique to this region, even though it originated in Burgundy. These wines are one of the great accompaniments to fish and seafood, and especially oysters.

 

My favorites come from the Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine area, located between the two rivers in the name. The terrior – igneous and metamorphic rock and the influence of the ocean – produces very dry wines but they are light and crisp, with fresh citrus (lemon, lime, grapefruit) aromas that evoke the ocean breeze, brisk acidity offset with minerality, and a tangy, occasionally slightly bitter finish. They are vinified sur lie in which the lees (yeast cells remaining after fermentation) are kept in the wine until bottling to enhance the lively character. The 2009 Andre Michel Bregeon ($16) really evokes the saline spray of the nearby ocean and those oysters you’ll be eating with it. The 2010 Domaine de la Quilla ($13) shows more of the stony minerality. Finally, the 2008 les Clissages D’Or ($16) emphasizes the citrus and herbal qualities.

 

 

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LOTS OF BUBBLES TO MAKE YOUR NEW YEAR SPARKLE

PEOPLE’S PALATE WEEKLY WINE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR DECEMBER 26, 2012

LOTS OF BUBBLES TO MAKE YOUR NEW YEAR SPARKLE

 

Although sparkling wine is always an appropriate choice for any occasion any time of year, no question the New Year, with all its toasts and “Champagne” brunches, are prime time for indulging a bit of bubbly. And effervescent wine is so popular, there are versions made in virtually every wine region.

 

Champagne

 

The benchmark for sparkling wine is that made in the Champagne region of northwestern France. Cool climate, limestone laced soils, and a nearly 300 year singular focus on the style (the “traditional method” – secondary fermentation in the bottle to capture the ”stars”) means Champagne is the benchmark for all things foamy. It also means the stuff is quite expensive. So, I suspect in most cases you will be looking for a nonvintage Brut. It’ll still set you back a pretty penny but with a top producer (like the two here) you’ll still get something special.

Charles Heidsieck. One of the oldest and most prestigious Champagne houses, established in 1851, the Charles Heidsieck house style typically is one the most complex and bold. Equal parts pinot noir, chardonnay, pinot meunier, with 40 percent reserve wines – some 10-15 years old – the Brut Reserve ($65) packs toasty brioche, pear and tropical fruits, with nutty notes in an amazingly lush frame. Even given the considerable cash commanded by Champagne, the Brut Reserve delivers a lot of wine for the money. 

Lanson. Over 250 years old (the fourth oldest Champagne house), Lanson has been absent from the U.S. market for a while but was recently reintroduced here. Lanson always was one of my favorite Champagnes, so I’m glad they’re back. And the Brut Rosé ($60) doesn’t disappoint. With 53 percent pinot noir, 32 percent chardonnay and 15 percent pinot meunier, the wine is exceedingly fresh and aromatic. This may be because Lanson eschews malolactic fermentation, meaning its wines typically retain more pure fresh fruit character. This one is loaded, with biscuit and floral aromas, red berry and citrus flavors and comes with an elegant texture.

 

Crémant

 

Beyond Champagne, there still are a wide variety of (mostly) more affordable choices for you. In France, Crémant is a term used to designate a high quality sparkling wine made using specified quality control practices including the “methode traditionnelle.”

 

Pierre Sparr Crémant d’Alsace. The Sparr family winery was established an amazingly long time ago in 1680. Pierre Sparr has access to many of the region’s finest vineyards, so maybe it shouldn’t be a surprise this is a highly respected producer. The Brut Reserve ($19) is 80 percent pinot blanc, 20 percent pinot auxerrois. The nose suggests the assertive melon, tropical and citrus fruit that dominates the palate. Fine mousse tickles the palate with minerals and hints of nuts. A fantastic value. The Brut Rosé ($19) is 100 percent pinot noir with fresh aromas of soft red berries and delicate, fruity flavors and lively acidity.

 

Gerard Bertrand Crémant de Limoux. Limoux, a small town and appellation in the Languedoc-Rousillon region of Mediterranean France, lays claim to producing sparkling wine by a second fermentation in the bottle long before Champagne.  Crémant de Limoux traces its history to 1531 and Benedictine monks at the abbey of Saint-Hilaire. Bertrand’s 2010 Crémant de Limoux ($16) is a blend of 70 percent chardonnay, 20 percent chenin blanc and 10 percent mauzac, the indigenous grape which used to dominate all Limoux sparkling wine. There is enticing flowery, citrus and toast on the nose and pleasant pear, apple and lemon flavors. I found the palate to show refined, frothy bubbles.

 

Prosecco

 

Prosecco from the Veneto region of northeastern Italy has become an extremely popular sparkling wine choice in recent years. Prosecco (the name of the production zone, while glera is the dominant grape), unlike the other sparklers in this report is produced using the Charmat Method. In this case, the bubbles are produced by inducing the second fermentation in a pressurized tank. The attraction is in fresh aromas and clean, delicate fruit, frizzante bubbles and low alcohol.

 

Valdo. Valdo Spumanti was established in 1926 and has been owned by the Bolla family since 1940. The Valdo Brut DOC ($12) opens with floral aromas and delivers lively, fruity pear and apple flavors. Valdo also has released a new Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut. Designated “Oro Puro” ($16), Prosecco’s fresh, lively style certainly is present but there is evidence of greater complexity and fuller flavors as the grapes are from the finest (usually higher altitude) hillside estate vineyards and the wine undergoes an extended aging period. Also consider Valdo’s Nerello Mascalese Rosé ($14), in which the nerello grape adds color, raspberry and spice to the blend. It’s not Prosecco but is similar in style.

 

Mionetto. Another one of Prosecco’s top producers, Mionetto traces its origin to 1887. They also areone of the zone’s most creative, as evidenced by the lighter, gently-sparkling and lower alcohol style of Mionetto’s “IL” ($13). The fruity aroma of pear and citrus is followed by a fresh and crisp wine with apple and peach flavors. The Mionetto Prosecco Brut DOC Treviso ($15) is a bit floral and more intensely fruity with notes of apple and citrus. It also is drier and pleasantly brisk.

 

Enza. Enza Extra Dry ($15) is a new brand produced for the importer W.J. Deutsch by the Cantina Colli del Soligo, a cooperative of growers throughout the Veneto. The slightly higher residual sugar is nicely balanced with just the right touch of acidity. The delicate bouquet offers with scents of pear and apple with a lightly floral, while the mouth also exhibits citrus and peach.

 

Moscato and Moscato d’Asti

 

You have to give the Italians credit for creativity and their fascination with spumante. As much as they are rightly recognized for their red wines, I have been told the Italians are just as proud of their sparkling wines. In addition to Prosecco and the impressive Franciacorta (none reviewed here), the Piemontese have come up with one of the most delightful of all. Made from the moscato bianco (white Muscat) grape in the vineyards surrounding the town of Asti, moscato d’Asti is enticingly aromatic, delightfully sweet, slightly fizzy (frizzante), and very low alcohol (5.5%), making it perfect as an aperitif or a dessert wine.


Vietti Moscato d’Asti. With a 200 year tradition of winemaking, this highly regarded producer is recognized as one of the first in the Piemonte to bottle single-vineyard wines and for pioneering the resurrection of the indigenous areneis white grape.  They also make one of the best Moscato d’Asti. The 2012 “Cascinetta” ($15) uses only the best moscato grapes with extended maturation. The resulting wine intense aromas of honey, peach and orange, with hints of spice and a suggestion of flowers. On the palate, it is loaded with apple, pear and lemon, while its delicate sweetness is balanced with bracing acidity leading to a fresh finish.

 

 

Caposaldo Moscato. Caposaldo is a brand brought to the U.S. by the importer Kobrand. The Moscato IGT ($10) actually is not a Moscato d’Asti but I include it here for ease of reference. The grapes are grown in the Provincia di Pavia in northern Italy’s Lombardy region. It is a bit less sweet and higher in alcohol (but still very low at 7%). And the price sure is right.

 

Cava

 

Spanish Cava has long been my go-to bubbly for parties and friendly accompaniment for meals. Most Cava is produced by the tradition method in the Penedès valley in Cataluna not far from Barcelona. Most Cava features the indigenous grapes Macabeo, Xarel-lo, Parellada. It’s recently had competition from Prosecco but is still a great choice.

 

Codorníu. Codorníu has been a premier sparkling wine producer since 1872 when the family introduced the traditional method to Spain. The family’s winemaking history actually stretches back more than 450 years to 1551. Anna de Codorníu Brut ($15) celebrates the life of Codorníu’s last heiress and the family she guided. It was the first Cava to use chardonnay in its cuvee, 70 percent in this release with 30 percent parellada. It shows some richness and a little sweetness, with a solid structure and a creamy texture and more fruit than expected – citrus, tropical and strawberry aromas; and apple, citrus, and raspberry flavors.

 

Poema.  Poema is a top-quality, small-production Cava house that emphasizes sustainable practices, suchasorganic fertilizer and no herbicides. The Brut ($13) is notable for its fresh bread, citrus, apple and even mineral notes. Its crisp, fruity and well-balanced profile positions it as a great choice. 

California

 

Barefoot Bubbly. For my California selection, I’m recommending a reliable choice in the so-called “value” category – Barefoot Bubbly. Barefoot Cellars has been churning out good value wines since 1986. Today, they produce thirteen still wines and seven sparkling. The mainstays of the Barefoot Bubbly line are the Brut Cuvée and Extra Dry, each ($11). The Brut is not as dry as the term usually indicates. But it is clean and crisp, with nice lemon and apple fruit balanced with creamy notes. The Extra Dry shows nice fresh tropical fruit; it is slightly sweet but finishes with refreshing acidity. These wines are ideal for parties and family gatherings and make a good base for the ever popular mimosa.

 

 

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PEOPLE’S PALATE WEEKLY WINE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR DECEMBER 19, 2012

SWEETS FOR THE HOLIDAYS

 

Something about the cold weather and holidays always gets me in the mood for a good dessert wine. I’ve discovered a few that I am looking forward to helping me get through the holidays and the rest of winter.

 

Port

 

Although I enjoy Port all year long, there is something about cold weather that gets me thinking about stocking up on this special dessert wine from Portugal’s Douro River Valley. The warming quality of Port’s intensity and high alcohol really hits the spot this time of year. There are many styles and a number of special designations but the wines are so good, the little extra effort it takes to understand them will be greatly rewarded. Actually, there are two basic styles: mostly wood-aged Port, usually classified as Tawny; and mostly bottle-aged Port, including Vintage, Late Bottled Vintage and Ruby.

 

Vintage Port is made only in exceptional years from the finest grapes in the top vineyards. They are dark, with intense fruit, great depth, and tannic grip. They also are quite expensive. Since I can’t afford Vintage Port often, one of my favorite alternatives is made by Ficklin Vineyards, a family operation that has been producing highly regarded California Port-style wines for three generations. The 1996 Ficklin Vintage Port ($36), though less intense than the Portuguese version, still is impressively rich and ready to enjoy immediately but will develop well.

 

Late Bottled Vintage Port (or LBV) also is an affordable alternative. It is made from good wines of a single year that didn’t quite make the cut for Vintage Port. Aged four to six years before bottling, it is ready to drink upon release but can last a few years. I enjoyed Dow’s 2007 LBV ($22), from the family’s fourth winemaking generation, for its full body and blackberry fruit balanced with good acidity and soft tannins.

 

Ruby Port is the youngest and most accessible Port. Aged three years in large vats to retainfreshness, expect straightforward, grapey fruit. Cockburn’s “Special Reserve” ($22), crafted to be more concentrated than a standard Ruby by this 200 year old producer, is a delectable choice with aromas of ripe plums and dark cherries and concentrated flavors to match. Fonseca Bin No. 27 ($21), another nearly two hundred year old family winery is quite intense with lively red fruits and good structure. Here again, Ficklin is a California alternative worth considering. I have been drinking the Old Vine Tinta Port ($18), which is produced using a unique solera blending system, for more than 30 years and it has never disappointed me.

 

Tawny Port is known less for power and concentration than for complexity, purity of fruit and finesse. Tawnies areblended wines and the best indicate an average age. Expect the balance, elegance and complexity to increase with the older wines. The Taylor Fladgate 20 Year Old ($56) is amazingly pure with vibrant, deep fruit, nutty complexity and great balance. The Fonseca 10 Year Old ($33) is quite fine in its own right and certainly more affordable, though a little sharper and not as complex. And don’t forget Ficklin’s Aged 10 Years ($28), which I enjoyed for its attractive plum and cinnamon and lingering finish.

 

 

Some California producers make a Port-style wine often using zinfandel because of itsability to develop naturally high alcohol levels without fortification. The 2009 Dashe Late Harvest Zinfandel (375 ml, $24) certainly conjures the character of a Ruby Port. It has fine structure and acidity, with aromas and flavors of raspberry and black pepper. The 2009 St. Francis Sonoma County Port ($38) is a rich, blend of cabernet sauvignon, zinfandel, merlot, syrah, and alicante bouchet. Aromas of spice and dark fruits lead to exuberant wild berry flavors and a silky texture.

 

Banyuls

 

Where the south of France hugs the Mediterranean Sea, the Languedoc and the Roussillon produce a wide variety of sweet wines, mostly from variations of the white grape muscat and occasionally the red grape grenache. Most of these wines (known as Vin Doux Naturel) are made by fortifying the partially fermented wine with grape spirits. This report covers three of the best.

 

From the terraced vineyards near the seaside town of the same name, Banyuls, (grenache is the dominant grape) is a truly underappreciated sweet red wine. Since it is red and fortified, it is tempting to compare Banyuls to Port. But there are differences, such as lower alcohol and a slightly lighter style. A fine example comes from one of the estates of the Dauré family, one of the Roussillon’s leading producers. The 2009 Les Clos de Paulilles “Rimage” (500 ml, $25) does bear a resemblance to Vintage Port with its blackberry, cherry fruit and chocolate notes.

 

Muscat de Saint Jean de Minervois

 

Muscat de Saint Jean de Minervois is one of the most important muscat based Vin Doux Naturel. It comes from high altitude vineyards on an arid plain near the Languedoc community of the same name and north of the historic town of Narbonne. The wine is made with muscat blanc à petit grains, the best of the many muscat varieties. I found the nonvintage Les Petit Grains (375 ml, $14), from Les Vignerons de la Méditerranée (the growers association responsible for the good value Val d’Orbieu wines) to be a fine representative of the appellation. Its dramatic aromatics and fruit forward apricot, citrus and honey qualities are enticingly satisfying.

 

Muscat de Rivesaltes

 

In the Rousillon region, neighbor to the Pyrenees Mountains that form the border with Spain, Muscat de Rivesaltes is an appellation that accounts for most of France’s Muscat production. The Dauré family’s other estate, Château de Jau (which dates to 1792) is a standard bearer in the Rousillon and its Muscat de Rivesaltes is a fine example of the type. Although much Rivesaltes is made with the lesser muscat of Alexandria, the 2009 Chateau de Jau Muscat de Rivesaltes (500 ml, $25) is distinguished by the use of muscat blanc à petit grains. It is similar to the Les Petit Grains, though in a lighter, more refreshing style.

 

Sauternes

 

Many consider Sauternes the greatest of all sweet wines. The production zone is located just south of Bordeaux. This storied wine results from the marriage of late harvested semillon (with small amounts of sauvignon blanc or occasionally muscadelle), and the amazing “noble rot” known as botrytis cinerea. This leads to deeply concentrated juice that yields luscious nectar of a wine – honeyed, earthy and even a little spicy. For a great introduction to the wonders of Sauternes at a fair price, enjoy the 2008 Château de Cosse (375 ml, $25), This is the second wine of the great Château Rieussec. Yet it carries all of the qualities one would look for in fine Sauternes.

 

Tokaji Aszu

 

Although it is largely unknown among American consumers, Tokaji Aszu (pronounced TOE-keye-ee AH-zhu) is one of the greatest sweet wines on the planet. The Tokaj-Hegyalja region is about 150 miles northeast of Budapest, Hungary in the Zemplen Mountains at the confluence of the Tisza and Bodrog rivers. It is here, not France or Germany, where the first discovery of the botrytis cinerea (the “noble rot”) was documented over 400 years ago, when it was realized the juice from rotten grapes could produce an unctuous, sweet wine. Tokaji Aszu is crafted from indigenous grapes – primarily furmint, harslevelu and muscat blanc. Its unique production method involves blending a dry base wine with a sweet paste of aszu (the botrytis-infected grapes) in various proportions. The amount of residual sugar in the wine is ranked in levels ranging from 3 puttonyos up to 6 puttonyos. No surprise Tokaji Aszu became celebrated, favored by royal families throughout Europe. It’s rich, thick and refreshing because of the high acidity, with the flavors of dried apricots and oranges.

 

Today, the Royal Tokaji Wine Company, founded just in 1990, is the most importantproducer of Tokaji Aszu and lucky for us the most readily available in America. These wines can be ridiculously expensive, so it is a real treat to find such quality at reasonably accessible prices. The 2007 5 Puttonyos “Red Label” (500 ml, $43) is a wine for superlatives. Amazingly luscious but lively, balanced and refreshing, you are likely to discern tropical, apricot, peach, and orange aromas and flavors. Intriguing hints of honey and earth cross the rich palate balanced with firming acidity. The 2009 Mád Cuvée Late Harvest (375 ml, $20) is made from vineyards near the town of Mád not far from Tokaj. It is lighter and fresher but definitely has a sense of richness – an excellent introduction to the style, exhibiting a fine balance between fruity sweetness and taut acidity.

 

 

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THE PEOPLE’S PALATE WEEKLY WINE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR DECEMBER 9, 2012

For this People’s Palate Weekly Wine Recommendations, I feature two types of wine that are ideal choices for holiday meals and festivities.

 

The white is a Vinho Verde from the region of the same name in northwestern Portugal. Vinho Verde translates to “green wine” and for good reason. The cool, wet climate and granite soils here present growers a challenge to harvest ripe grapes. Those that do produce a pleasantly aromatic, light bodied wine that is high in acid, (sometimes with a bit of fizz on the tongue), and brisk apple and citrus fruit, occasionally accented with mineral or savory elements. Low in alcohol, they are perfect as an aperitif and with lighter dishes.

 

There are about half a dozen key grapes used in varying proportions and many of the finished wines are bottled nonvintage – blended from more than one harvest. Arguably alvarinho is the finest of these. Actually, alvarinho is the Portuguese name for the albarino grape grown in nearby Galicia across the border in Spain.  Compared to other Vinho Verde, it yields a more fragrant, full-bodied, wine that is higher in alcohol and can reveal quite a bit of richness and character.

 

This certainly proved the case with this week’s selection – the 2011 Vera Alvarinho Vinho Verde ($16). The Vera is 100% alvarihno from vineyards in a warmer, drier area. There is a slight tingle on the tongue, followed by rich flavors of ripe apple, lemon and lime. This depth of fruit is balanced with bright acidity and the wine finishes with spice notes. Enticing now, this is a wine with enough character to age and for a few years.

 


 

I actually have another fun VV choice for you – the Broadbent Vinho Verde ($10). This delightfulwine (at a great price) opens with the impression of a light sparkling wine and that is confirmed in the mouth with fairly significant spritz. A touch of fresh green apple and a clean finish makes this a great quaffer. This is a nonvintage wine, so look on the back label for the “Seal of Guarantee” (Selo de Garantia) and the “/2011” notation.

 

My red wine choice this week is Beaujolais. My first offering is the Beaujolais Nouveau from Georges Duboeuf. This time of year, Beaujolais is a choice red wine option and Beaujolais Nouveau is especially fun. Every year, on the third Thursday of November, the Beaujolais Nouveau is released to great fanfare, as it is traditionally the first wine of the new harvest.

 

Coincidentally available just in time for the holidays, the 2012 Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau ($10) is one of the most widely available and always a good choice. The color is a deep purplish ruby and the wine mimics that impression with vibrant, forward berry fruit, balanced with good structure. It is best served chilled.

 

But Nouveau isn’t your only Beaujolais option. There are 12 different Beaujolais appellations, 10 of which are associated with a key village and are known as “Crus” to designate the region’s most celebrated and unique wines. Gamay is the primary varietal of Beaujolais, representing 99 percent of the region’s wines. Beyond Beaujolais, cultivation of gamay is rare, making drinking the region’s wines a unique experience.

 

The Beaujolais region is actually part of the Burgundy region. It is located in the south of Burgundy just north of Lyon in eastern France. Granite soils, some laced with limestone and clay, and abundant sunshine provide an environment in which the grapes develop deep fruit and a solid structure.

 

From Duboeuf, you can’t go wrong with the 2011 Morgon “Jean Descombes” ($16). The Jean Descombes is a perennial favorite of mine. It has loads of black cherry and plum fruit and finishes with and intriguingly savory element.

 

My other Beaujolais selection comes from Louis Jadot, the iconic Burgundy producer – 2010 Louis Jadot Moulin-à-Vent “Château des Jacques” ($22). Maison Louis Jadot bought the Château des Jacques in 1996 and produces several Moulin à Vent, Fleurie, Morgon, and Chenas under this label. This wine is quite full-bodied, with deep black cherry fruit and savory brown spices. The plump texture is buttressed with noticeable tannin. If for some reason you don’t drink it up now, this one definitely can develop over the next several years.

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HOLIDAY WINE GIFTS 2012 – CALIFORNIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON AND BLENDS

Throughout most of the year I’m pretty much an “ABC” guy (Anything but Cabernet or Chardonnay). I’m not militant about it mind you. I just appreciate diversity, adventure. I find trying different wines from different grapes, from different regions educational … and exciting. And there is so much out there to try.

 

But, for some reason, when the holidays come around, I turn all traditional and look for a top notch California Cabernet Sauvignon to give as gives to family and friends. If you are at all like me in this regard, you should appreciate the following list. For those of you who are reading this and saying, “What a cop out,” you have to acknowledge that great California Cab’s (and I include in this various blends) are fine wines in their own right and as a bonus carry a certaincaché that carries extra value for special occasion. And maybe next year I’ll be more creative.

 

The following wines are listed in order of my preference but all are recommended. I also provide information about the wine’s style to help you choose.

 

2009 Francis Ford Coppola Winery “Eleanor” ($50)

This wine is produced in honor of Coppola’s wife, with the grapes coming from the esttate’s vineyards in Sonoma (72 percent) and Napa (28 percent). Winemaker Corey Beck has blended Syrah (54 percent) and Cabernet Sauvignon (46 percent) into a rich, and luscious but supple wine. It shows ripe, mouthfilling fruit of currants, raspberries and black cherries, all layered with notes of black pepper, earth, and herbs. While it is full flavored and well structured, it also is the essence of balance, finishing with fine-grained tannins. This wine is enjoyable now but should develop for 10-15 years.

 

 

2009 Caymus Napa Valley ($68)

Caymus has been one of California’s premier Cabernet producers for nearlyforty years. The Wagnerfamily’s Special Selection is almost always near the top of critic’s lists and the Napa Valley bottling isn’t far behind. This vintage is flashy and opulent, supple and luxurious, with a creamy texture. It exhibits succulent flavors of dark berries, currants and cassis. Yet it has a solid structure that maintains a certain elegance. I sense added complexity in touches of mocha, tobacco, espresso and underbrush. Delicious to drink now and over the next 10 years.

 

2008 Frank Family Napa Valley ($50)

This winery, founded by long time Hollywood executive Rich Frank and Connie Frank twenty years ago, just seems to get better with each successive vintage. Todd Graff, who has been the winemaker since the beginning, has crafted a big, rich, ripe wine loaded with delectable plum, currant and blackberry fruit accented nicely with oak, herbal and tobacco notes. But the wine harmonizes all this in a supple texture and elegant finish. It can be enjoyed now and for another ten years.

 

2008 Rodney Strong “Symmetry” Alexander Valley ($55) 

This winery has been a Sonoma County pioneer since 1959 and arguably is making its best wines ever. Tom Klein, whose family has owned the winery since 1989, and Rick Sayre, who has been the winemaker since 1979, have continued this pioneering approach to sustainability, where they have taken these practices farther than almost any winery in California – including solar powered electricity and getting certified carbon neutral. Symmetry is a classic Bordeaux-style blend dominated by 79% cabernet sauvignon. This wine definitely falls into the big, ripe and rich category. It fills the mouth with blackberry, blueberry, plum, cassis, and currant fruit. Layers of complexity emerge from woodsy, meaty, mineral, and cedar notes. The dense fruit and considerable tannins call for lengthy aging (5-15 years) but suggest it will be well worth the wait.

 

2008 Hess Collection 19 Block Cuvee Mt. Veeder ($36)

This is another in a string of recent successes for what is essentially a Bordeaux-style blend of 69 percent cabernet sauvignon with malbec, syrah, merlot and petit verdot. It is a good example of the owner (Swiss businessman Donald Hess’ (who founded the winery in 1978) commitment to mountain grown fruit and sustainable practices. The wine shows the expected concentrated fruit – in this case blackberry and black currant. However, it also displays a softer texture than expected from high altitude grapes. Herbal, wood and forest notes add complexity, while friendly tannins encourage short-term drinking (bit it will hold for ten plus years.

 

 

 2008 Rodney Strong Reserve Alexander’s Valley ($45)

This is another Rodney Strong wine packed full of ripe dark fruits. Savory notes add complexity, as do hints of herbs, licorice, chocolate and oak. The wine has such juicy flavors and well-mannered tannins, it seems to beg for early drinking but should reward patience for a good ten years.

 

2008 Grgich Hills Napa Valley Estate Grown ($60)

Now here’s a wine made in … what shall I call it? The traditional style? The Old World style? It certainly is not what has come to be known as the “fruit bomb” overblown Napa style of recent years. Under the direction of Mike Grgich, who has been making wine in Napa for over fifty years, the winery has seen its estate vineyards certified organic and biodynamic and converted its electricity to solar power. But the wines remain true the higher acid, elegant style. This wine clearly presents strong tannins but they frame deep, pure blackberry, cherry and currant fruit. There also are noticeable woodsy, savory notes of tobacco, spice and licorice. Enjoyable now, I think it will be better in five years and will drink well at least another ten.

 

2009 Priest Ranch Somerston Vineyards Napa Valley ($48)

Somerston Vineyards in the far eastern reaches of the Napa Valley has been a working ranch since 1847, which has included grape growing for only about the last forty. A few years ago, realizing the quality of the fruit, the current owners decided to make their own wine. With this vintage, winemaker Craig Becker has crafted another fine example of mountain grown fruit. It is a big, rich, powerful style where ripe berries are joined with complex notes of loam, earth, leather, and licorice. It all rides on a plush texture and ends with soft, though firm tannins. It’s friendly enough to drink now but might be even better in five and should evolve for another decade.

 

2008 Dry Creek Vineyard The Mariner Dry Creek Valley ($40)

In 1972, David Stare was one of the pioneers of the rebirth of winemaking in the Dry Creek Valley. While the valley and Dry Creek Vineyard are best known for Zinfandel, a fair amount of high quality cabernet sauvignon –based wines also are produced. The Mariner is the winery’s Bordeaux-style blend (42% cabernet sauvignon, 35% merlot, with the rest petit verdot, malbec and cabernet franc). This vintage impresses for its solid structure framing rich dark fruits and overlayed with dried herbs, wood and tobacco notes. It is quite dry. Drink over the next decade.

 

2009 Round Pond Estate Rutherford ($50)

Located in the heart of the coveted cabernet cornucopia that is the Rutherford appellation of the Napa Valley, the MacDonnell family has been growing grapes here since the early 1980’s. Recently, they decided to make their own wine from their highly sought after grapes. This Estate wine is flashy, rich, and supple. Abundant, sweet blackberry and currant fruit is wrapped in generous oak and shows hints of cocoa. The lush palate gains chewy density in the finish. Give it a couple of years to allow the fruit and tannin to meld; then enjoy it over the next decade.

 

2008 Newton The Puzzle Spring Mountain District ($80)

This winery has occupied the upper echelons of Napa’s elite since it was established 35 years ago. It’s wines are notable for their origins in high altitude vineyards in the Spring Mountain District on the west side of the Napa Valley and the use of indigenous yeast in fermentation and their bottling without filtration. The Puzzle is a blend of 42% merlot and 36% cabernet sauvignon, with cabernet franc, petit verdot and malbec. It is made is a super ripe style with loads of plum, blackberry, currant, and cherry fruit. There is plenty of oak and hints of herbs, cola, and tobacco. With all that fruit and elegant, restrained tannins, one would be tempted understandably to drink it now but it might develop complexity if you cellar it for five or ten years.

 

2008 Freemark Abbey Napa ($40)

Freemark Abbey is one of Napa Valley’s oldest wine properties, having been established in 1886. It also played an important part in the revival of California wine, as there were two Freemark Abbey wines included in the famous 1976 Paris Tasting. The 2008 Cab emphasizes a fruit-driven, approachable style. Lively red currant and cherry fruit is deepened with spice, tobacco and licorice notes. While there is noticeable oak and fairly firm tannins, the texture is supple making this a wine to enjoy within the next few years.

 

Below are eight other wines presented without tasting notes because I’m running long. But they still are recommended and I plan to review them in more detail in another column.

 

2009 Duckhorn Napa ($68)

2008 Jordan Alexander Valley ($52)

2009 J. Lohr Carol’s Vineyard Napa ($40)

2009 Treana Red Paso Robles ($35)

2009 Atalon Napa ($35)

2008 Dry Creek Vineyard Meritage Sonoma County ($28)

2009 Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve Sonoma County ($28)

2008 Dry Creek Vineyard Dry Creek Valley ($25)

 

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THE PEOPLES PALATE: WEEKLY WINE RECOMMENDATIONS

THE PEOPLES PALATE: WEEKLY WINE RECOMMENDATIONS 

(for the week of November 25, 2012)

 

Tio Pepe “Fino en Rama” ($25)

 

Tio Pepe is the well-known brand of Sherry produced by Spain’s Gonzalez & Byass, one of the nation’s oldest Sherry producers, having been established in 1835 in Jerez.

 

Sherry, of course, is the fortified wine produced in the area lying between Jerez de la Frontera, Puerto de Santa María and San Lucar de Barrameda in southern Spain. Fino is the light, dry style of Sherry achieved by vinification of the palomino grapes under a coating of yeast (called “flor”) that forms on the aging wine and prevents it from oxidizing. Then, the use of the solera system to blend different vintages lends complexity to the finished wine.

 

Fino en Rama is a specific version of Fino intended to be as fresh and pure as possible (“en rama” can translate as “raw”). This is achieved by minimal treatment of the wine after it is removed from cask. This year, the Tio Pepe Fino en Rama celebrates the 200th anniversary of the birth of Manuel Maria Gonzalez, the producer’s founder.

 

This Tio Pepe comes from the finest four casks selected in the spring, when the flor is at its thickest. And critically, unlike most other Sherry (even some en rama), this wine is unfined and unfiltered. Nothing is added to clarify the juice or to filter dissolved solids; these are achieved mostly with settling. So you get all the natural components of the original wine and more complexity than the typical Fino (which is normally fined and filtered to stabilize it for transport).

 

The resulting wine opens with hints of butterscotch and caramel aromas accented by lemon, spice, minerals, and that trademark almond character. The palate is fresh, tangy and savory. It shows admirable finesse, even delicacy on the palate but at 15% alcohol, it still finishes with a kick.

 

Fino en Rama (even more so that a regular Fino) is best drunk shortly after bottling. It should be served chilled, refrigerated after opening and drunk within three months. It makes a fine aperitif. It is perfect for cheese, fish, Asian food, egg dishes, nuts and, what else, tapas.

 

Only about 200 cases of this special wine is available in the U.S.; so look for it now.

 

2010 Domaine du Pré Baron Sauvignon Touraine ($12)

 

For most folks, the Loire Valley probably is mostly associated with the dozens of dramatic medieval chateau dotted along the Loire River. For those of us fascinated with wine, it is more importantly a key wine region in France. Although the Loire often is overshadowed by Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne and the Rhone Valley, the region produces an amazing diversity of wines well worth any wine lover’s investigation.

 

Take for instance Sauvignon Blanc. Some know it likely originated in Bordeaux where it has achieved acclaim among connoisseurs, especially those from the Graves district, where it is blended with semillon. But I might argue it has achieved a purer expression in the Loire Valley. And certainly Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume, districts located at the eastern end of the valley, have achieved well-deserved recognition for their renditions.

 

I will be writing more about those wines and others from the Loire Valley in the coming months but here I present an excellent choice for you to experience a fine Loire Sauvignon at an everyday price.

 

The best source for such value priced Sauvignon is the Touraine district, which lies at the center of the Loire Valley. Named after the city of Tours, it stretches along the Loire River and is the Valley’s largest district. “Touraine” also is the regional appellation (sort of like “Sonoma” on a California label).

 

Sauvignon Blanc typically is quite aromatic, light, fresh and lively, with invigorating acidity. Its flavor profile includes prominent herbal notes (sometimes even described as grassy) and fruit notes of citrus, grapefruit and sometimes gooseberry (as often seems most pronounced with New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc). In the Touraine, the mostly sandy clay, occasionally flinty soils, yield racy wines that can show some minerality.

 

Touraine de Sauvignon (as it is technically known) may not have quite the complexity or refinement of Sancerre or Pouilly Fumé but from a dedicated grower (like the Mardon family of Pré Baron) it can be eminently satisfying. And with attractive pricing, it is a more than reasonable alternative to its more expensive relatives.

 

This wine, made without the use of oak, shows really nice spicy herb flecked citrus notes and a touch of flinty, smoky aromas. The palate has a fair amount of weight, which carries nice orange and lemon flavors. It is crisp and lively, perfect for light dishes, including chicken, fish and shellfish, and even salads.