The People's Palate with Rich Mauro

Although sparkling wine is appropriate for any occasion, the holidays are its prime time. Lucky for us effervescent wine is so popular there are versions made in virtually every wine region. This column focuses on bubbles from France and Italy, ideal for any celebration, party, or even your nightly meal.

Champagne still is the world’s most prestigious bubbly. And Moët & Chandon, one of Champagne’s most historic (founded in 1743) and influential houses is an ideal place to start a stylistic exploration. Overall, these wines expertly balance richness and delicacy, just what I like in Champagne. These blends are dominated by pinot noir with significant but lesser amounts of pinot meunier and chardonnay.

Brut Impérial ($40) is Moët’s iconic cuvée. And with good reason. Currently available in a limited-edition embossed bottle, it would make a nice holiday gift. It is elegant and seamlessly juicy with apple and lemon with balance and complexity from toasty elements. The Brut Rosé Imperial ($40) is seductively lively, with intense, fresh red berries, delicate floral notes, and a luscious, expressive structure.

Moët’sGrand Vintage wines are special offerings. They will evolve for at least ten years. The 2009 Grand VintageExtra Brut($65) is delightfully rich, complex and concentrated with juicy, pitted and red fruits balanced with vanilla cream, almonds, toast and light spice. The 2009 Grand Vintage Rosé Extra Brut ($70) leads with ripe berries, then floral and lightly peppery notes. A sense of elegance compliments the firm texture. Toasty richness and complexity are its hallmarks. Given their age, both drink with refinement but will keep for severl years.

While Champagne is the benchmark for bottle fermented sparkling wine, there are good sparklers elsewhere in France, usually labeled Crémant, is an affordable alternative. I particularly like Crémant d’Alsace, made using the Champagne method. Lucien Albrecht, a winery that dates to 1698 is one of the best. has produced fine, citrusy Crémant Brut ($22) using chardonnay, pinot blanc, and pinot auxerrois or the 100 percent pinot noir Rosé Brut for its crisp, berry fruit, finesse and nice measure of complexity.

Prosecco, the fresh frizzantefrom the Veneto hills of northeastern Italy, has really gained in popularity in recent years. Made from the native glera grape, it is produced using the Charmat Method (bubbles from second fermentation in pressurized tanks, instead of in the bottle as with Champagne). Its fresh, delicate pear, citrus and peach fruit and frothy palate make for an easy drinking and modestly priced wine versatile for many occasions.

One of my all-time favorite producers (along with Bisol) is Adami, a family owned winery in the prized Valdobbiadene area. Established in 1920, they produce benchmark Prosecco bursting with varietal purity and white flowers. The “Garbel” Brut ($15) is quite full flavored for its price; the “Bosco di Gica” Brut ($18) is most lively and refreshing; and the 2017 “Vigneto Giardino” Brut ($22) is impressively focused and intense.

Lambrusco from Emilia-Romagna is enjoying a reintroduction to American consumers as artisan bubbly – exuberantly fruity berries and mostly dry, not the sickly sweet, mass-produced froth of the past. One of the best is Cleto Chiarli. The wines below are made from regional variations of the lambrusco grape.I suspect these still may be an acquired taste for some but I think they are delicious, versatile, and inexpensive.

The effusive, luscious, firm, savory, peppery Vigneto Cialdini ($15) is a good introduction to the style. The 2016 floral, fresh, crisp, lightly Premium Vecchia Modena ($15) shows a bit more depth. The succulent, spicy lightly Centenario Grasparossa di Castelvetro Amabile ($11) is a delightfully semi sweet exception to the rule.

Although Piemonte in Italy’s northwest is most famous for its red wines – Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera, etc. – the region also excels with spumante. Enrico Serafino established the winery in the Roero district 140 years ago and is one of the area’s most respected producers. In addition the winery is a leader in the production of what Italians call “Metodo Classico” or the Classic (read Champagne) Method.

Its 2013 Brut ($25), a chardonnay/pinot noir blend with enticing white flowers, stone fruit, orange oil, and a crisp but luscious texture, is a fine value. The 100 percent pinot noir 2014 Brut Rosé ($27) offers a sophisticated, lightly toasty experience. The 2010 Brut Zero ($52) is a very special wine, even at this price. A pinot noir/chardonnay blend, “Zero” means it is extremely dry. It also is “late disgorged”, meaning each bottle aged on its lees – a process that adds complexity – an extended period before being corked. Expect Creamy apple and pear with vibrant acidity and finesse.

(NOTE: All wines here are nonvintage unless otherwise noted.)

One of the hallmarks of Thanksgiving and other holiday dinners and other gatherings is the coming together of family and friends. As you consider what wines to serve with your holiday meals, why not continue the theme by pairing Chardonnay for the white and Pinot Noir for the red? Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are the most common grape varieties in Burgundy and two of the most popular grapes worldwide. The two have long been thought to be related, what with growing in the same region for centuries and their vines having almost identical leaves.

But, though some have labeled the white grape “pinot chardonnay”, there never was conclusive evidence of familial connection. And chardonnay is not usually included in descriptions of the “pinot family of grapes” – pinot noir, pinot blanc, pinot gris, pinot meunier. These are the same variety but different clones expressing mutations that have occurred over centuries. Now, DNA fingerprinting suggests that chardonnay is the result of a cross between pinot noir and gouais blanc (a Croatian grape the Romans are thought to have brought to France). Turns out pinot noir is actually one of chardonnay’s parents.

Pinot Noir typically produces lighter-bodied red wines with low to moderate tannins, notable for aromas and flavors of cherries and brown spices. Chardonnay produces white wines known for their aromas of white and yellow fruit, flowers and minerals. Consider sharing the following wine families with your family this Thanksgiving.

Cambria. Based in the Santa Maria Valley in Santa Barbara County, Cambria is a Chardonnay and Pinot Noir specialist owned by Jackson Family Estates (creators of Kendall-Jackson wines). These are sustainably farmed, estate grown wines named after the founding family’s daughters: 2015 Chardonnay Katherine’s Vineyard ($22) ripe, stone fruit, creamy, toasty and 2015 Pinot Noir Julia’s Vineyard ($25) full flavored red dark and fruits, spice.

Cuvaison. Established in the Napa Valley in 1969, Cuvaison was an early pioneer of the Carneros region. Benefitting from the cooling effects of San Pablo Bay and sustainable farming practices, these estate bottled wines are distinguished by vibrant, balanced character: 2016 Pinot Noir ($42) light-bodied wine of red fruits and black tea with velvety tannins and 2016 Chardonnay ($26) redolent of stone fruits, with nice vanilla, crips acidity, and a plush texture.

Davis Bynum. A pioneer of chardonnay and pinot noir in the Russian River Valley, which is now one of California’s most acclaimed regions for those varieties, Davis Bynum also has claim the first single vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir from a vineyard planted in 1973. Today, it is owned by the family that owns Rodney Strong Vineyards. The 2016 Pinot Noir Jane’s Vineyard ($35) reveals generous bright red berries in a fruity style with forest and brown spice notes, somewhat tough tannins leading to a firm finish; the 2015 Chardonnay River West Vineyard ($25) offers nice apple, pineapple, and creamy notes in a fresh, lush texture.

Dutton Ranch. This one’s actually a vineyard source, not a winery. Six generations of Duttons have farmed in Sonoma County. But this story begins when Warren and Gail Dutton founded Dutton Ranch in 1964. Today, sons Joe and Steve co-own Dutton Ranch with their mother Gail and farm 1200 acres of certified sustainable grapes and 200 acres of certified organic apples, all within the Green Valley-Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast appellations. Upwards of six dozen wineries produce wines from Dutton Ranch grapes. Joe and Steve also co-own their own wineries.

Dutton Estate. Joe and Tracy Dutton established their winery nearby in 1994 and produce wines from Dutton Ranch fruit. Their Sister’s Collection blends fruit from several Dutton Ranch vineyards. The brisk, fruitful, succulent 2015 Chardonnay Kyndall’s Reserve ($42) pleases with pretty lemon and a touch of mineral. The 2015 Pinot Noir “Karmen Isabella” ($46) charms with sweet red fruits and floral notes, complimented with a touch of forest elements. It is elegant, fresh, and earthy.

Dutton-Goldfield. Steve and Theresa Dutton founded Dutton-Goldfield winery in 1998 with winemaker Dan Goldfield. Their Dutton Ranch wines are distinguished by lively fruit and luscious textures: The 2016 Pinot Noir ($44) is supple with full plum and black and an impressive earthy character. The 2015 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch ($38) showed lovely pear and apple fruit in a luscious, elegant palate, with hints of mineral.

Frank Family. Hollywood executive Rich Frank founded this winery in 1992 near Calistoga after purchasing the historic Larkmead winery (established 1884) property. Frank Family has become highly awarded for its Cabernets and I’ve also enjoyed their Zinfandel and sparkling wine. But the winery also now produces fine Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs primarily from the family owned Lewis Vineyard in Carneros and other prime Carneros vineyards. The 2016 Pinot Noir ($38) opens with pretty cherry accented with earthy, woodsy elements. It drinks lushly textured and spicy. The 2016 Chardonnay ($35) is invigorating, with juicy citrus; it drinks lively and richly textured.

La Crema. Another Chardonnay and Pinot Noir specialist from the Jackson family, this time producing wines from multiple appellations and even Oregon. The Russian River Valley wines are stars. The Monterey and Sonoma Coast wines are especially good values.

Russian River Valley: 2015 Pinot Noir ($40) distinguished by strong earthy qualities, loaded with red berries proffered in an elegant but slightly chewy finish; 2016 Chardonnay ($30) fine citrus, pear and tropical fruits are enhanced with a sense richness

Sonoma Coast: 2016 Pinot Noir ($25) bright cherry, and lightly spicy notes compliment an oaky, velvety finish; 2016 Chardonnay ($23) light touches of apple, pear and cinnamon glide along a brisk frame

Monterey: 2016 Pinot Noir ($23) slight minty note leads into nice cherry and a silky, fresh texture; 2016 Chardonnay ($20) citrus and gingerbread, lush, creamy texture

Ladera. Ladera Estate is a twenty-year-old winery established by Midwesterners who traded in ranching for vineyards on Mount Veeder and Howell Mountain. Today, the owners continue to focus on fruit from high elevation vineyards. But they also added the Pillow Road Vineyard in the southwest Russian River Valley ten years ago for their Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, which are distinguished by vibrant and velvety textures. 2015 Ladera Pinot Noir RRV Pillow Road Vineyard ($50) herbs, smoked black cherry and blackberry black cherries, mulberries warm plums hints of underbrush and stewed tea full-bodied savory flavors firm, high-toned, chewy texture, velvety smooth and concentrated it finishes on an herbal note cardamom black tea; 2015 Pinot Noir Chardonnay Pillow Road Vineyard ($50) intense, exuberant, creamy up-front acidity freshness floral velvety and exotic nutmeg and cardamom, oak and acidity integrated well.

Scheid. From one of Monterey’s largest growers (having farmed the Salinas Valley since 1972) and their cool-climate, certified sustainable, estate vineyards in the Santa Lucia Highlands: 2016 Pinot Noir Doctor’s Vineyard ($75) red fruits with herbal and spice, and a zesty finish; and 2016 Chardonnay Escolle Vineyard ($45) nice lemon, orange and pineapple with a mineral note and a light but lively texture.

Sea Slopes. From Fort Ross Vineyards & Winery, these wines are are excellent values for the price intended as more approachable and elegant expressions of Sonoma Coast fruit than their Fort Ross flagship wines. The 2016 Pinot Noir ($35) lively, red berries and plum, hints of spice, smooth texture; the 2016 Chardonnay ($30) opens with brown butter, citrus and spice, and follows with a firm, lively palate.

Sea Smoke. This twenty-year-old winery’s vineyards in the Sta. Rita Hills, which benefit from cooling Pacific Ocean fog (the ‘sea smoke’), also are farmed organic and biodynamic. Sea Smoke is known for its rich, complex, full-bodied but elegant wines. The 2015 Pinot Noir “Southing” ($60) – Southing refers to the south-facing hillside bluffs on the Sea Smoke estate vineyard – presents copious amounts of dramatic cherry and red fruits, with savory, smoky,  licorice, a firm structure, and a powerful, seamless palate.  The 2015 Pinot Noir “Ten” ($82), a selection of ten clones from the estate vineyard, is complex, yet harmonious, with bright red fruits and black cherry, spicy clove, anise and earthy notes. The 2015  Chardonnay ($60) dramatic pear and peach fruit meld with citrus and vanilla oak all head together with a bracing structure.

Whether you realize it or not most wines you drink are blends of multiple grapes (even those varietally labeled) from different vineyards. And industry sales data reveal more wineries these days are featuring wines specifically as blends.

Yes, certain grapes are popular for a reason and make fine wine flying solo, usually something to do with distinctive aromas, flavors or overall character. But just as cultural diversity is a societal strength, so winemakers of all stripes have found varietal diversity to have unique benefits. Try any of the wines below (reviewed in order of preference within each category) and you will taste the synergy in a product that embodies the classic sentiment of the whole being greater than the sum of its parts.

For many, the Bordeaux formula blending various percentages of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec, and petit verdot is the template.  For a winery that produces over 1.6 million cases of wine a year, J. Lohr maintains impressive quality at all price points. For our purposes here, a case in point is the Cuvée Series, which takes the exploration of Bordeaux blends so seriously theiy explore three of the main regions of Bordeaux. I’ve recommended these before and the current vintage (2014, $50) continues to impress.

Cuvée POM (Pomerol) 82% merlot + 18% malbec; my favorite of the trio; rich, succulent black cherry and plum, savory chocolate and spices, aroma of fresh soil, full-bodied; drinks supple and juicy, with refined tannins, seamlessly balanced

Cuvée PAU (Pauillac) 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Malbec; 11% petit verdot + 7% merlot; rich, luscious dark berries; intriguing interplay of savory, sweet and oak elements;  quite full with a velvety texture

Cuvée ST. E (Saint-Émilion) 59% cabernet franc, 33% cabernet sauvignon, 7% malbec + 1% petit verdot; juicy plum and blackberry; with roasted notes and hints of oak; fleshy mouthfeel

The wines below are variations on the classic Bordeaux-style blend. Listed in order of preference, each should improve and drink well for the next ten years.

2014 Charles Krug “Generations” Family Reserve  ($60) 84% cabernet sauvignon, 9% petit verdot, 4% merlot + 3% malbec; herbal, earthy notes frame lively fruit, wrapped in rustic tannins

2014 50 Harvests “Meritage” Napa Valley Oak Knoll District ($50) 75% cabernet sauvignon + 25% petit verdot; deep, forward fruit, herbal, fresh textured; a fine collaboration of Napa winemaker Mitch Cosentino and Lodi winemaker Paul Scotto

2014 Acumen “Mountainside” Napa Valley ($45) 42% cabernet sauvignon, 19% malbec, 19% merlot, 14% cabernet franc + 6% petit verdot; minty, herbaceous, earthy, intense, spicy finish, needs time to come together

2016 Chappellet “Mountain Cuvee” Napa Valley ($34) 51 cabernet sauvignon, 13 malbec, 24 merlot, 3 cabernet franc + 9 petit verdot; lively, concentrated, sweet fruit, savory, herbal

2013 Dry Creek Meritage Dry Creek Valley ($26) all five Bordeaux varieties but mostly 40% Merlot and 33% Cabernet Sauvignon; restrained but  juicy berries, touch of  dried herb and spice, drying tannins needs time to resolve

For others, the “Super Tuscans” of Italy are the benchmark, showcasing sangiovese, though often substituting zinfandel and sometimes syrah.

2015 Ferrari-Carano “Siena” Sonoma County Red Wine ($21) sangiovese, malbec, cabernet sauvignon + petite sirah; zesty, fruit-forward red berries, lush, anise and cocoa tinged

2014 Treana “Red” ($45) 75% cabernet sauvignon + 25% syrah; from one of Paso Robles pioneer wineries; intense fruit, tobacco, mocha and woodsy notes add complexity, lush, powerful

Duckhorn Winery’s Paraduxx winery is exemplary here. It is a winery devoted to making only blends. Each of these will benefit from a few years development.

2014 Atlas Peak ($80) 55% cabernet sauvignon + 45% sangiovese; firm, full, oaky, earthy, smooth structure, spicy finish

2014 Howell Mountain ($80) 65% cabernet sauvignon + 35% syrah; dense dark fruit, herbal, leathery, tannic finish

2015 Napa Valley Proprietary Red Wine ($50) 54% cabernet sauvignon, 19% merlot, 16% zinfandel + 11% petit verdot; intense, bright fruit, forest and tobacco notes, smooth

Still others take southern France as inspiration, blending grapes like syrah, grenache, mourvedre, and petite sirah. The ones in this report, though, also mix in Bordeaux and Italian grapes. This is California, after all.

2013 Ancient Peaks “Oyster Ridge” Paso Robles Maragarita Ranch ($60) 75% cabernet sauvignon, 15% syrah, 5% petite sirah + 5% malbec; my favorite of the whole tasting; massive, complex, packed with intense dark fruits, herbs, licorice, mocha, spice, and rich polished texture; will age well

2015 Rodney Strong “Upshot” Sonoma County ($28) 44% zinfandel, 29% merlot, 15% malbec, 7% petit verdot + 5% Riesling (?!); don’t ask me about the resiling because I don’t know how or why that got in there; I just know this offers user friendly, zesty fruit, with hints of tobacco and toast ; it has a lush, slightly dusty texture

2016 Lucas & Lewellen “Hidden Asset” Santa Barbara County ($29) 32% malbec, 30% merlot, 26% syrah, 9% petite sirah + 3% cabernet franc; oaky, menthol, fruity dark berries, light spice, smooth

2016 Pedroncelli “Sonoma Classico” Barrel Select Dry Creek Valley ($19) merlot, zinfandel, petite sirah, syrah; bright fruit, baking spices, dried herbs, smoky notes, rustic texture; good value

California Zinfandel has long been my favorite red wine. There are many reasons it should be yours, too. It can be made in different styles: from bold and jammy with high alcohol to balanced, elegantand nuanced. Expect fresh, succulentfruit, a brash, wild character, moderate tannin, and spicy accents.

It is grown successfully all over the California. And some zinfandel vineyards are among the oldest in the U.S. Thus, the term “Old Vine” has become a badge of honor for producers and a clue to a more concentrated, intense wine.

Zinfandel is the quintessentially American grape, an immigrant that came to California in the early 1800s from Eastern Europe and has succeeded there better than anywhere else. It offers excellent value, considering the overall quality, which can rival the finest wines. Almost all the best are under $50 and there are countless good ones under $30.

Sonoma County (with beauties from the Dry Creek, Russian River, Sonoma and Alexander valleys) is arguably the premier source of superior Zinfandel in the state. Not all the valleys were represented in my tasting but here is ample evidence.

From Dry Creek Valley, the Pedroncelli family offers the zesty, minty, sleek 2015 Mother Clone ($19) from some vines over 100 and the woodsy, spicy, rustic 2016 Bushnell Vineyard ($26).The Dry Creek Vineyard produces its intense, lively, firm 2016 Old Vine ($35) from average 95+ year-old vines.

The cool-climate of the Russian River Valley is better known for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. But the valley’s Zins similarly are notable for good acidity and elegance. The comparison holds for Dutton Goldfield, who’s zesty, refined, seamless, complex 2015 Dutton Ranch Morelli Lane Vineyard ($50) originates from a 100+ vineyard. And Sidebar offers a rich, heady 2016 Old Vine ($28), a field blend from the pre-1900 Alegria Vineyard.

I also had three good ones carrying a Sonoma County designation. The tight, concentrated 2016 Dry Creek Vineyard “Heritage Vines” ($24), from young vines grafted to pre-Prohibition budwood; rich, juicy 2015 Decoy ($25), the entry-level brand in the Duckhorn portfolio; and one of my favorites from the tasting, the seamless, fruit-filed 2016 Bear Flag ($30).

Though the Napa Valley is best known for Cabernet Sauvignon, it is surprisingly reliable for Zinfandel. Good examples include: luscious, peppery 2016 Frank Family Napa Valley ($37) and juicy, focused, sleek 2013 Grgich Hills ($36).

For many, Lodi is synonymous with Zinfandel, as it grows an estimated 40 percent of California’s Zinfandel grapes. Its hallmark is good value, like these: jammy, smooth 2015 Seven Deadly Zins Old Vine ($16) and the berry compote of 2017 Cline Old Vine ($12).

A couple of other hidden gems: a bright, juicy 2014 Edmeades Mendocino County ($20); and the surprisingly rich and flavorful for the price 2016 Cline Ancient Vines ($15).

Finally a special feature: Ravenswood was established 1976 by Joel Peterson and both have reached icon status in California wine for an array of single-vineyard Zinfandels. Here are three (2015, $39), each from old vines: the concentrated, minty, luscious Dickerson Vineyard (Napa Valley) is one of the few 100 percent Zinfandel; dense, structured, licorice of Teldeschi Vineyard (Dry Creek Valley); and full-bodied, deep, energetic Belloni Vineyard (Russian River Valley).

Although cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir, zinfandel, and merlot remain the most popular red wine grapes in California, if you’re like me, you crave something different now and then. Here are a few of the most interesting alternatives – mostly Bordeaux and Rhône varieties – I’ve tasted the past several months.

One of the traditional Bordeaux blending varieties, petit verdot contributes color, tannin and intensity, bold dark fruit and a floral note to the flavor profile. It is made as a single varietal wine in the U.S. but you’re still more likely to find it in a blend like the spicy, herbal, soft 2016 French Bar “Gold Dust Red” ($19).

Another Bordeaux blender, malbec’s appeal as a varietal wine is based largely on a profile of forward dark fruit, mocha, admirable depth, and user-friendly texture. The 2014 Rodney Strong Reserve ($40) elevates this profile with structure, density, and seamlessness.

And then there is cabernet franc, which also plays a supporting role in Bordeaux blends. It is noted for bold red fruits, discreet acidity, and savory bell pepper. The 2016 Ironstone ($14) nicely balances bright fruit, and pepper. Although pricey, the supple, luscious 2015 Chappellet ($85), from one of Napa Valley’s best wineries, bursts with deep fruit, vanilla, mocha, and brown spice.

Syrah is most famous for its prominent role in the great wines of the Rhône Valley. It produces aromatic, fairly full-bodied wines, with dark berries, black pepper, meatiness, and ample but polite tannins. Like in the impressive 2013 Pomar Junction Paso Robles ($38).

These days, I especially appreciate the Rhône blends from Paso Robles. The 2014 ONX “Reckoning” ($59), whose two-thirds syrah is supplemented with grenache, malbec, and petite sirah, is an impressive offering. Complex, structured, and rich, it delivers ripe fruit, with savory, earthy and peppery notes. Also fantastic is the 2014 Tablas Creek “Esprit de Tablas” ($55). Modeled after Châteauneuf-du-Pape, it combines mourvèdre, grenache, syrah, and counoise. Another complex wine, it offers pungent forest notes, smoky anise and a solid frame integrate with a silky texture.

A delightful exception to my Paso rule, the 2014 Paraduxx Napa Valley “Candlestick Blend” ($58), two-thirds syrah/one-third grenache, is vigorous and concentrated, with tobacco, dried herbs and smoky oak.

One of my favorite “alternative reds” is the Rhône origin grape petite sirah. It makes a robust, dense wine of dark berries, tobacco, leather, earth, and pepper. The following wines are excellent examples.

• 2016 Michael David “Petite Petit” ($18) with 15 percent petit verdot, rich, sweet, concentrated, lush, spicy
• 2015 Scheid Hames Valley ($36) peppery, rustic but lush
• 2015 Two Angels “Red Hills” ($27) full, firm, spicy, gripping
• 2015 French Bar ($19) dried flowers, sweet fruit,

Grown extensively in southern France and Spain, carignan often is blended for color, acidity and tannin. As a varietal wine, like the 2016 1000 Stories “Batch Blue” ($19), which happens to be Bourbon Barrel-Aged, it can show red fruits with spicy and savory notes.

Finally, an exception to the French theme: dolcetto, an important grape in Piemonte, offers juicy plum, earthy, and light with friendly tannins, good acidity, combining bitter and sweet flavors. The 2016 Scheid “Riverview” ($34) is notable for its flowery nose, powdery texture, and tight acidity.

I have tasted and reviewed quite a large number of wines in the first eight months of this year. But looking over my notes recently, I realized there still were a number of wines that just hadn’t made their way into one of my columns.

I noted many of these were value priced wines that would make nice everyday-type drinking through the rest of summer and into the cooler seasons. Don’t look for depth or complexity in these wines, just an easy drinking, consumer friendly experience that delivers solid quality for a reasonable price.

First up, I was surprised to find eight recommendable Pinot Noirs. Not long ago, it was almost impossible to find sound, affordable Pinot Noir. Start with the organic Mendocino grapes of the soft, spicy 2016 Bonterra ($16) or the Willamette Valley fruit of the forward, supple 2016 Oregon Trails ($20).

The rest, as it turns out, all benefit from California Central Coast fruit. The juicy 2016 Hess Select ($20) from the Santa Lucia Highlands of Monterey County; and the herbal, minty 2016 District 7 ($20), from Scheid Family Wines and cool-climate, certified sustainable, estate vineyards in Monterey County. Also from Scheid, the bright, savory 2016 Ranch 32 ($17) uses sustainably farmed, estate vineyards from Arroyo Seco area of Monterey.

Farther south, the bright, spicy, herbal 2015 Lucas & Lewellen ($20) also benefits from estate vineyards located in Santa Barbara County and the flavorful 2016 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve ($17) combines Monterey and Santa Barbara County fruit to fine effect.

I also found seven solid Cabernet Sauvignons. From Sonoma County, the 2016 Rodney Strong ($17), 2016 Chateau Souverain ($14), and 2015 Louis M. Martini ($20), are perennial good values with fine character, as is the substantial 2016 J. Lohr Seven Oaks ($17)from Paso Robles.

The fairly intense 2016 District 7 ($20) from Monterey County; the oaky, slightly sweet 2016 Ravage ($13) from Lodi; and the aromatic, structured 2015 Pacific Crest McNary Vineyard ($20) from the Horse Heaven Hills region in Washington all are good options.

And there were six worthy Chardonnays: the lively, lemony 2016 Rodney Strong Sonoma County ($17), focused 2016 Chehalem “Inox” Unoaked Oregon ($20), spicy, creamy 2016 La Crema Monterey ($20), buttery 2016 Edna Valley Vineyards Central Coast ($15), caramel apple 2016 Chateau Souverain North Coast ($14), and tropical 2016 EmBRAZEN ($16) – the label is a tribute to women’s empowerment and advancement, featuring heralded Latin singer Celia Cruz on the label.

I also was impressed with four blends. From Cline family vineyards in Contra Costa County and Carneros farmed according to the Green String Method, a type of sustainable farming, enjoy the pleasant red fruits and spiceof the 2016 farmhouse Red ($13)and the lively, citrus and pear of the 2017 farmhouse White ($13). Sonoma County’s Pedroncelli offers the exuberant floral, steely 2017 friends.white  ($13) and the fruitful, savory 2016 friends.red ($13).

Finally, two Rosés: the pinot gris-based 2017 Band of Roses ($13), from the highly regarded Washington State producer Charles Smith Wines and one of my all-time favorites, the lively, flavorful Pedroncelli Dry Rosé of Zinfandel (2017, $17).

I once was at a seminar on Italian at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen and Victor Hazan began by declaring, “The color of [Italian] wine is red.” Well, as much as I tend to agree, I am here to say the color also is white and green, completing the colors of the Italian flag.

Italy is a cornucopia of vinous diversity, a boot overflowing with, by some estimates, over 2000 indigenous varieties. There are really good white wines from familiar grapes like chardonnay, sauvignon, gewürztraminer, sylvaner, and pinot grigio. There also is a cornucopia of varieties mostly regional-focused, small production wines well worth seeking out, most of which arebudget friendly. Here I highlight just a few.

The large northeastern regions of Veneto, Trentino-Alto Adige and Friuli-Venezia Giulia arguably have led the revolution in Italian white wine production. Most of these wines are unoaked to retain natural freshness. In general, the wines are notable for dramatic aromas, precise structure, and refreshing acidity.

Probably most recognizable to American consumers, Pinot Grigio can be produced in a variety of styles but is generally pleasingly light, brisk melon and citrus notes have been a winning combination. There are boatloads of insipid plonk produced but also quite a bit of distinctive, consumer friendly wines. Like these:

• 2017 Ecco Domani Limited Edition Venezia($12), bright, fresh easy drinking
• 2017 MezzaCorona Trentino ($14) estate bottled, crisp, lean, herbal and mineral
• 2017 Attems Friuli ($20) founded in 1106 and now owned by the Frescobaldi family, it’s crisp citrus, apple, apricot and supple palate reveal vibrant fruitiness
• 2016 Jermann FVG ($30) really satisfying with bracing, flavorful citrus, honey melon, peach and mineral

The pinot grigio grape also features prominently as half of a blend pinot bianco, ribolla gialla, and sauvignon by Villa Russiz, a winery in Friuli very near the border with Slovenia. The 2016  “Les Enfants” ($22) is flavorful and creamy with lively fresh lime flavors, with hints of peach and minerality, pera almond. Villa Russiz also offers a fine 2016 Pinot Bianco ($26) from Collio, a subregion revered for its white wines. It’s lively, with apricot, pear, herb and mineral notes.

Most consumers probably know Soave but don’t recognize garganega, its dominant grape.  Specific to the Veneto, Soave also went through a period of mediocrity. But in the hands of attentive wineries, Soave’s (especially from the original Classico zone) reputation has been restored. Typically, its apple, citrus, and stone fruit are nicely balanced with almond notes. The 2016 Pieropan ($20), from a family whose winemaking heritage dates to 1880, is delightfully aromatic, bracing and mouthfilling with apple and peach,orchard fruit, lemon, stone. I remember tasting it in the 1980’s and for the first realizing just how good Soave can be. While the Inama family has been making Soave Classico for “only” forty-plus years, though they have a long history in the region between Verona and Vicenza. Their 2017 “Vin Soave” ($15) delightfully light with touches of apple, nectarine, lemon, pear,stone and almond. The 2016 “Vigneti di Foscarino” ($25) is a special selection of old vines on the east side of the Monte Foscarino that is vinified (such as barrel fermentation) to recall traditional styles; yielding a wine with a lush texture and notes of apricot, pear and melon balanced with almond.

For a contemporary interpretation of gargenega, try the 2017 Scaia Garganega – Chardonnay ($13). A second label of Tenuta Sant’Antonio, Scaia is a project with a mission to craft a style of wines that respect the traditions of Veneto but tilt to modern tastes. One way they do that is to blend local grapes with international varieties, like this blend of 55 percent garganega and 45 percent chardonnay that is the most aromatic of the wines in my tasting, with a brisk tropical fruit but a lush texture and herbal notes.

Vermentino is a rare variety, grown mostly on the island of Sardegna, Liguria, and the western coast of Toscana, where it produces crisp, medium-bodied wines with refreshing citrus, apple and suggestions of sea air and almond. I found two excellent values  from the Maremma hills of Toscana. The 2016 Aia Vecchia($12) from a small, family owned winery of respected grape growers offers really nice energetic fruit with a hint of minerality and 2016 Rocca di Montemassi “Calasole” ($15) nicely adds melon and vanilla to the profile.

Over on the eastern coast of Central Italy on the Adriatic Sea, verdicchio is the signature white grape of the Le Marche region. The grape mirrors the green in the Italian flag as its name comes from the word “verde” reflecting the wines naturally green shades. Typically refreshing, it features apple, citrus, and stony notes. One of the most respected producers and the oldest family-owned winery in the region (dating back to 1871), Garofoli specializes in the grape, especially from the prestigious Castelli di Jesi area. Its 2017 “Macrina” ($14) is fresh, elegant, and structured with hints of peaches, lemon and mineral. The 2015 “Podium” ($25), a special selection of grapes from a single-vineyard, is impressively fruited and more structured  with notes of apples, honey and toast with almond with minerality.

Finally, two other wines from either end of the peninsula.

In Piemonte in the northwest, Arneis is a prominent white grape that yields typically full flavored wines with lower acidity and softer, fuller texture than the other grapes in this report. Luca Bosio has produced a 2016 ($20) with notes of lime, tangerine, almonds, and flowers. While the grape is thought to have originated in the Roero subregion of Piemonte, this one comes from the nearby Langhe, also known for its prized Barolo and Barbaresco.

Sicily’s grillo is one of several distinctive indigenous varieties on the island worth trying. And coming from Tasca D’Almerita, one of the most prestigious Sicilian estates with over 200 years of winegrowing. A leader in Italy in environmental, social and economic sustainability, the winery’s 2017 Tenuta Whitaker ($22), actually located on the former Phoenician island of Mozia off the western tip of Sicilia, is impressively flavorful with potency and deep citrus fruit and spice in a rather viscous frame.

I have been touting the pleasures of dry rosé for two decades. So, I have been gratified over the last two years to see pink wines finally gaining appreciation in this country.

Of course, sweet “blush” wines have been popular for years but industry publications report wines like White Zinfandel have declined in sales, while drier versions modeled after European styles experience double-digit growth. Even rosé wine festivals are popping up, like the one in Denver this past summer.

Regardless of the grapes used and origins, the best rosé wines display aromas and flavors that approximate the profile of their red siblings but drink more like white wines. Expect bright, fresh fruit aromas and flavors ranging from strawberry, cherry, raspberry, and cranberry to rhubarb, pomegranate, and watermelon. Occasionally, you’ll find intriguing mineral or herbal shades. (Note, all wines below are 2017 vintage, unless otherwise stated.)

Thankfully, this growth has been accompanied by improved quality, as I found in my recent tastings. And I find it interesting that many wineries seem to have latched on to pinot noir as the grape of choice. This is likely because the grape typically produces lighter colored wines anyway and tends to reveal its primary aromas and flavors at earlier ripeness than, say, cabernet sauvignon.

From Oregon’s Willamette Valley, I especially enjoyed the tart intensity of the Left Coast ($24), the tangy, balanced Stoller ($25), and juicy WillaKenzie Estate ($23). I also was intrigued by the Left Coast White Pinot Noir ($24): my notes read, “Looks white; smells white; tastes white but somehow drinks definitely pink.”

From California, I found several (in order of my preference but all are recommended) from various appellations.

• Russian River Valley: Rodney Strong ($25) fresh, juicy
• Mendocino County: Copain Tous Ensemble ($25) intense, earthy
• Santa Maria Valley: Cambria Julia’s Vineyard ($25) spicy, tangy
• Santa Rita Hills: Sanford ($22) tart, mineral
• Monterey County: Scheid ($19) bright, floral
• Napa Valley: Educated Guess ($17) delicate, lingering
• Monterey County: District 7 ($16) full, juicy

Rhône varieties, especially syrah, also are popular. I was particularly impressed with the brisk, spicy Sidebar Russian River Valley Syrah ($21); the Klinker Brick “Bricks & Roses” Lodi ($15), an enticing blend of grenache, carignan, syrah, and mourvèdre; and the distinctive green apple and rose of the Rabble “Mossfire Ranch” Syrah ($25) from Paso Robles.

And there were two delightful rosé blends of mostly pinot noir and syrah: Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve (juicy, round, $17) and Decoy (herbal, intense, $20). I also enjoyed the tart, spicy Edna Valley ($16), blending tempranillo, syrah, grenache, and mourvedre and the slightly sweet 2016 Sterling Vintner’s Collection ($14), blending syrah, tempranillo, and zinfandel. Then there were unexpected varietals, like the full, robust Ladera ($30), 100 percent malbec from Napa Valley’s famed Stagecoach Vineyard and a firm, herbal Scotto ($18), 100 percent sangiovese from Mohr-Fry Vineyard in Lodi.

The biggest surprise was Julia’s Dazzle ($20) from Long Shadows Washington State winery. It is 100 percent pinot gris is late harvested to generate more intense flavor and copper color. The result was a model rosé, juicy and vibrant, with hints of spice and green apple.

And now some of those imported rosés.

Europeans have known for a long time the joy of drinking a good dry pink wine and the French term – rosé – has become the most common name worldwide. The French especially, appreciate a good dry pink wine. There is a dizzying array of French rosés from all over the country, though, most notably the south – places like Provence, Rhône Valley, Tavel, and Languedoc-Roussillon.

Rosé from Provence in particular is having its moment. Imports have exploded in the last couple years. Characterized by extremely light salmon color, they are made predominantly using grenache with additions of cinsault and syrah and sometimes a touch of mourvèdre or carignan. I detected a characteristic flavor profile of delicate red berries and citrus fruits, juicy, fresh and a suggestion of creaminess. Here are my favorites from my tasting:

• Château de Berne “Inspiration” ($20) from a property in the hills of Provence where vines have grown since Roman times and that sports a five star hotel and Michelin starred restaurant
• Ultimate Provence “Urban” ($23) located in the countryside on the outskirts of St Tropez; also part of the Berne portfolio; mostly syrah
• Fleur de Mer ($20) a 50 year old cooperative near Saint Tropez
• M de Minuty ($19) an 18^thcentury estate using sustainable methods

Rhône Valley Rosés, similarly based primarily on grenache, syrah, and cinsault, tend to be a bit richer, offering more intensity. I enjoyed the Ferraton “Samorëns” Côtes de Rhône ($15), from organic and biodynamic vineyards, which adds a nice herbal note.

Tavel, a rosé-only appellation in the Southern Rhône, is notable for its darker, more concentrated Rosés. With family connections to this land originating in 1780 and now farmed mostly organically, the Domaine Lafond “Roc-Epire” ($19) as it turns out was my favorite of the tasting. It’s full-bodied with intriguing caramel and spice. From an even older property (1460) in the Costières de Nimes sub-appellation near Tavel, the Chateau de Campuget “Tradition” ($11) is a fine choice in a lighter style with syrah dominating.

Continuing southwest I found two good ones from Roussillon. In theCôtes du Roussillon subregion, the great Rhône Valley producer Michel Chapoutier crafts the fresh, lively Les Vignes de Bila-Haut ($15). Nearby, in an area designated Department 66 (an administrative division in the near the Pyrenees and France’s border with Spain), California winemaker Orin Swift own a winery with the same name and makes the firm, round, spicy, alcoholic “Fragile” Rosé ($18).

And I found a nice interloper from Burgundy to the north from respected producer Roche de Bellene: the Bellenos Rosé of Gamay Noir ($16) from Beaujolais offers crisp apple and watermelon flavors.

Italians also love Rosé, though it is often labeled Rosato. I had two nice ones from Tuscany in my tasting. From the coastal Maremma subregion, the 2016 Aia Vecchia “Solido” ($14) is a flavorful blend of sangiovese and merlot. The Frescobaldi family (who has produced fine wines in Tuscany for over 700 years) offers the delightful “Alie” ($25) is a unique, balanced blend of syrah and vermentino from grapes grown on their estate in also Maremma.

Another winery owned by the Frescobaldi family, the Attems estate (which dates to 1106) in the northeastern region of Friuli Venezia-Giulia produced the 2016 Pinot Grigio “Ramato” ($20). This is a rare, charming wine from this white grape. The wine’s copper hue results from prolonged skin contact during fermentation.

Also in the northeast, this time the Vento, theTenuta Sant’Antoniowinery (a well-known maker of traditional Valpolicella and Soave) also produces fresh, focused wines from local and international varieties under the Scaia label. The Rosato ($13), 100 percent the native rondinella, is lively and juicy.

If you crave pink bubbly, try Cleto Chiarli NV Brut di Noir Rosé Spumante ($15), a Lambrusco from the local grasparossa grape and pinot nero (pinot noir). Made in Emilia-Romagna, Lambrusco produces a range of styles, including this Rosé, with its touch of cinnamon and sea air. Cleto Chiarli has been a benchmark for traditional, honest and high-quality Lambrusco for nearly 160 years in Modena.

Although blush wines have now become something of a fad, these are all seriously good wines that will help you cool off during the heat of the summer but will refresh any time of year.