Category: Travel

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Denver’s Hotel Monaco Exemplifies Kimpton Hospitality

the peoples palate with rich mauro
hotel service

So, we had four days free with no particular plans late last month; my son even had Thursday and Friday with no school.  We considered taking a trip somewhere but after looking at our options and deciding out-of-state travel was too expensive and too much of a hassle and in-state travel too risky with the weather, we decided to take a two-day “stay-cation” at the Hotel Monaco in downtown Denver.

We already knew this is a classy hotel. We’ been to many events their and have eaten at the excellent restaurant, Panzano several times. But we’d never stayed in a room before. We sure are glad we did this time. Granted, they knew I am a writer and offered a room at the press rate and then gave us two connected King rooms (one a suite). But there is no faking the elegant décor of the rooms and the high quality of the service.

The hotel also offers a commendable range of signature Kimpton amenities: hosted evening reception, a variety of accommodations for the disabled, pet friendly supports, and an extensive eco-friendly program.

And Panzano. Chef Elise Wiggins, a passionate proponent of the organic, local, seasonal movement, is a great chef whose crew delivers outstanding Italian fare. The sustainable approach is not a fad here. Panzano been recognized for its commitment that even extends to using only Seafood Watch approved seafood, fair trade coffee, and biodegrable packaging, to mention just a few responsible practices. And it all translates into soul satisfying food expertly prepared.

We’ve stayed at Kimpton hotels in San Francisco, Seattle, and Washington, D.C. before and Denver’s Hotel Monaco easily lived up to the quality we have come to expect from Kimpton hotels.

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Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico Enchant Humbled Colorado Visitors

rich mauro the peoples palate

Every year since my wife and I were married 25 years ago (many of those with Tricia’s parents and the last eleven with our son), we have tried to visit northern New Mexico. We have only missed a few of those years. And, as many great places as there are in this magical area, we have gravitated most often to Santa Fe.

We have enjoyed many fine accommodations over the years and this year we were able to stay at one of our favorites, the Eldorado Hotel. Part of the prestigious international luxury chain, Preferred Hotels & Resorts, the Eldorado is located right downtown about three blocks from the Plaza. As nice as our room was, we especially appreciated the friendly, attentive service from the staff – especially the front desk and the valet. Kudos!  Although the Santa Fe International Folk Art Market and the Sculptural Objects & Functional Art (SOFA WEST) exposition were the big attractions for the weekend (not to mention the Santa Fe Opera), we opted for a more leisurely weekend.

That meant one day strolling through the New Mexico Museum of Art. This nearly 100 year-old museum houses a sizable permanent collection of works, most created by New Mexico-based artists. We particularly enjoyed the exhibit “How the West was One: The Art of New Mexico,” which included 70 works by Native American, Hispanic, and European-American artists. It is a fascinating illustration of the intercultural history of New Mexico art over the last 125 years. The next day we made our obligatory visit to the Plaza to shop for Native American art, mostly silver jewelry from Native Americans who sell directly to the public from their places in front of the Palace of the Governors. We always end up buying something and this time was no different.

We also made our fifth journey through the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum (just a few blocks off the Plaza). We always enjoy this iconic artist’s dramatic and evocative works, both in the permanent collection and the changing exhibitions. The current exhibit of her abstract works showed a different, fascinating side of her art.  Another day we enjoyed visiting the newly transformed Railyard District one day. It’s really amazing the extent to which recent renovations of this area just outside of downtown has turned it into a destination, with a variety of shops and restaurants and, most importantly, one of the country’s best farmers’ markets.

Our other planned activity for the weekend was a stop at “Body of Santa Fe” for what has become almost a ritual for us in recent years – massages at the Body Spa. And afterwards snacks at the excellent vegetarian café.  Which leads me to the main reason I crave an annual Santa Fe fix: the food. As long as we have been coming to this special place, I remain convinced that this is one of the world’s great culinary cities. This is a city with soul. That soul originates from its history and culture and emanates from its food, a synthesis of its native and Spanish heritage with western U.S. influences. Recently, the food community here increasingly has enriched that heritage by celebrating the variety of the world’s cuisines and the importance of the local, organic ethic.

Our strategy on this trip followed that of previous visits: to combine old favorites with new discoveries. Dinner Friday night was at the Chocolate Maven, which qualified in both categories, since it has served breakfast and lunch but only recently opened for dinner. We had loved breakfast here before and the dinner menu posted online looked enticing.  We weren’t disappointed. For instance, entrees such as Mushroom Quinoa Chile Relleno (I’m a sucker for a good pepper and Maven’s Chile Relleno was fantastic), Enchiladas Oaxaca, and a great halibut special were most satisfying. I should add that there was a glitch in the kitchen during our meal but the management took care of the problem promptly and without urging from us and did so beyond expectations. Now that’s the way to run a restaurant.

For breakfast Saturday morning, we just wandered downstairs to enjoy a relaxing meal at the Eldorado’s highly regarded Old House restaurant. We had really good pancakes, breakfast burrito, eggs, pastries and strong coffee.  Saturday night, we met our friends Gail and Michael (who just happened to be at in Albuquerque for a conference and made a day trip to Santa Fe) for dinner at Restaurant Martin. Tricia and I had enjoyed Chef Martin Rios’ highly acclaimed food before when he was the Executive Chef at the Old House. So, we were excited to see what he would do with his own spot.  Located in a cozy house, this is an elegant, yet casual restaurant well worth a visit. Everything we had lived up to expectations but the Wild Mushroom and Nantucket Bay Scallop Risotto and Maine Diver Sea Scallops were the consensus favorites.

Sunday morning, we all went to breakfast at Tune Up Café. From the research I had done before the trip, this sounded like our kind of place. All the reviews said great breakfast (and lunch and dinner), excellent New Mexican plates and even

some Salvadoran dishes. We all enjoyed our food (for instance, another fantastic Chile Relleno) but Tricia couldn’t stop exclaiming about her pancakes, which she said were the best she had ever had. Monday morning before heading on the road home, we stopped by Tune-Up Cafe again. We both had to reprise our dishes from the day before!  Dinner Sunday night was super casual as we opted for barbecue and beer at Cowgirl of Santa Fe. And I do mean super casual. I can only describe this sprawling restaurant that originated with the intent of “promoting the culture of the American Cowgirl” as a

kid friendly dive bar. There is even a play area for the little ones in the back. And the BBQ? Fall off the bone good.

Finally, I can’t end a review of our Santa Fe vacation without mentioning our perennial “pilgrimage” to El Santuario de Chimayo. Thanks to Tricia’s parents, who first suggested it, every time we come here, there is one day when we head north the 26 miles to Espanola, then east on the “High Road to Taos” about ten miles to Chimayo. Once there, we follow the footsteps of hundreds of thousands of others to the side room of the small but affecting adobe church where a well is filled with dirt from the surrounding hillsides. Legend says the dirt of this area has healing qualities and we always bring some home with us.  But truth be told, another reason why we are anxious to come to Chimayo is that we always have lunch at the Restaurante Ranch de Chimayo before heading back to Santa Fe. The food here is authentic New Mexico and very reasonably priced and they even offer a vegetarian chile.  Needless to say, we can’t wait to come back next year!

Check out more pictures from this trip here.

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J.L. Chave Seminar Demonstrates Greatness in Wine

One of the most common, thought-provoking, and debated questions in wine is “What makes a wine great?” In my experience writing about wine and attending countless seminars and tastings over the past fifteen years, this question is almost always looming. Sometimes it is the specific topic of discussion; other times it is the basic question underlying the stated topic.

This was the case recently at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen when I attended a Reserve Tasting called “The Rhone’s Singular Best: J.L. Chave.” I was sitting in a tent next to the Gondola at the base of Aspen Mountain. Almost filled with 100+ people, most of whom (not me) paid $250 to be there. Before us were eight glasses containing only about one-two ounces of wine each.

Staring at all those samples within inches of my mouth, my anticipation (which had been building since I was offered the opportunity to sign up for one Reserve Tasting and knew immediately the one I wanted) almost overflowed. Looking down at us (literally, not metaphorically, from the raised stage) were sommeliers Richard Betts, Robert Bohr, and Bobby Stuckey, F &W’s Ray Isle, and winemaker Jean-Louis Chave.

With Chave, making great wine has been a family heritage in Hermitage since 1481. Still, the 41 year-old Jean-Louis told us, “The vineyard is more important than who is making the wine. The vineyard was here before us and it will be here after us.”  So, great wine begins with the earth, in this case the Northern Rhone, specifically Hermitage. At a total of just over 300 acres, this tiny region is not much bigger than most Bordeaux chateau and is smaller than many California wineries. Production of the red wine (syrah grape) is similarly tiny, while that of the white wine (blend of marsanne/roussanne) is downright miniscule. Chave makes a total of less than 4000 cases.

The vineyards of Hermitage are on a granite hill above a curve in the Rhone River with low-yielding soils that also contain sandy gravel, flint, limestone and chalk. Importantly, they are on the left bank and are south facing (“because the vines look for the sun,” says Chave). Although it can get warm, he said the climate generally is cooler, more like Burgundy than Provence, more Continental than Mediterranean.

Next to great terroir, I have found it always increases one’s chances of getting a great wine if you choose a great producer – one with a track record of quality like Chave. As Richard Betts noted, the Chaves also have a reputation of producing excellent wine even in a subpar vintage, such as 2004 (the red in our tasting illustrated this point).  Jean Louis and his father Gerard are committed to producing wine in the traditional way but not just for the sake of tradition. They know modern technology can produce clean, clear, stable wines but those wines are all too often bland, simple and without character. Chave wines are produced naturally without chemicals or machines in the vineyards and with minimal intervention in the cellar.

When nature cooperates to produce perfectly ripe raw materials, the role of winemaker is to make sure the true character of the grapes, the vineyard where they originated, and the characteristics of the vintage are translated in the final wine. As Chave explained, each year they try to answer the question, “What is Hermitage.”  And after listening to Jean-Louis’ comments, Robert Bohr was moved to remark that he is more of a philosopher than someone just trying to sell wine.

With the Chave approach to winemaking, blending skills are critical. Jean-Louis explained the élevage, or upbringing, of his wines, where they vinify the grapes from each parcel they own separately. Then, when each site is fully expressed in these wines, they “blend the terroirs” so the final wine is the best expression of Hermitage.  I found it revealing when he pointed out that they never talk about syrah, just the vineyards. As Jean-Louis put it, “the grape is just a vector for the soil to express itself in the wine.” But the truth is, as Bobby Stuckey asserted, syrah does well in many places but nowhere is it like this.” And as Stuckey declared, “There is no makeup on these wines.”

In the hands of the Chave family, the Hermitage terroir yields both red and white wines that at their best are powerful, yet elegant; well structured, yet generous; concentrated, yet harmonious; and long-lived. Both also often exhibit savory elements and fennel/anise/ licorice notes. They also are expensive, with the white priced around $200 and the red about $250 … a bottle!

The whites in our tasting also showed distinctive honey, apricot, and tropical fruit, and lush, viscous textures. The 2007 added grains and a hint of chalk. The 2003 was more woodsy, with forest notes. The 2000 showed the potential for development of these wines, with nut, caramel and roasted grain notes but still very fresh and ripe fruit.  The reds delivered high-toned red and black berry fruit, with fennel, white (?) pepper, and meat. The 2007 added eucalyptus. The 2004 was a little brooding, with cured meat and darker fruit. The 2001 showed development of an earthy quality and velvety texture but was still quite tannic, with plenty of ripe fruit.

Tasting these wines, I realized another key to their greatness is balance. There is amazing complexity but no component is in excess. Rather, all the components are seamlessly integrated.  Although powerful and concentrated, they are well proportioned and complex. They reflect the winemakers’ skill and philosophy but also the vintage and terroir. They are an expression of their origin – the region, people and culture of Hermitage. This is their greatness.

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Paso Robles Emerges As World Class Wine, Food, Travel Destination

Five years ago when I first visited Paso Robles I thought the area showed great promise as a viticultural zone. A recent visit as part of a group of journalists assembled by the Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance showed me how much the area has matured as a grape growing, winemaking and culinary destination. And how much promise there is for even more progress.

Paso Robles is the largest American Viticultural Area (AVA) in California. It is also the name of the main town of about 30,000, whose original name was El Paso del

Robles (“Passage of the Oaks”). But, after my recent visit to the area, I think Paso could just be short for “passion.”

From our home base at the elegant Hotel Cheval, just off the square in downtown Paso, we visited a wide variety of vineyards, wineries, restaurants and other food purveyors

Dinner the first night was at Artisan in downtown Paso where Chef Chris Kobayashi (who has cooking credentials from San Francisco and the Napa Valley restaurants) crafts dishes as much as possible from seasonal, locally grown ingredients from small producers.

We were joined by the following “pioneers”:

• Jason Haas, whose father, the respected importer Robert Haas and the Perrin brothers of the esteemed Chateau Beaucastel established Tablas Creek in 1989, kicking off Paso’s journey to becoming a Rhone varietal mecca.

• Justin Baldwin, who with his wife Deborah established Justin Vineyards in 1981and turned it into a popular destination with an elegant inn and gourmet restaurant, while showing Paso can produce great Bordeaux varietal-based wines.

• Steve Lohr, son of Jerry Lohr, founder of J. Lohr, which moved into Paso in 1988 and has grown into one of the area’s largest and most widely available labels, while building a reputation for excellent value.

Continuing the pioneer theme, our tours the next day took us to two of the area’s oldest farming families. We began the day at Steinbeck Vineyards where six generations have farmed what is now 500 acres of vines. Cindy (Steinbeck) Newkirk explained their sustainable farming practices and noted that they sell 99 percent of their grapes to such producers as Eberle, Justin, J. Lohr, and Treana. The family decided to open their own winery in 2005 and now release their own wines (Cabernet Sauvignon, Viognier, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, and The Crash made by longtime area winemaker Steve Glossner) with the other one percent.

Cindy also explained her foray into “agritourism” with the creation of The Wine Yard, a classroom in the vineyard offering an historical overview of the region, vineyard jeep tours and viticultural education.

The next stop was a particular treat for the Zinfandel lover (not to mention the Italian) in me: the legendary Dusi vineyard. The Dusi family tradition in Paso began in 1923 when Great Grandparents Sylvester and Catarina Dusi purchased a ranch on the east side of the Salians River (which today roughly parallels Highway 101) and began planting zinfandel vines. This property, farmed for many years by their son Benito and today by his son Mike has supplied the fruit for the celebrated Ridge Paso Robles Zinfandels since 1976. I have fond memories of drinking many of those Ridge wines over the years.

Benito’s brother Dante planted another zinfandel vineyard on the west side in 1945 and can still be seen driving a tractor through the head pruned, dry farmed vines (I have a picture to prove it!). It was here that we sampled several Dusi Zinfandels from new Paso-based wineries in an enlightening tasting that presented examples of the character of the Vineyard – usually bold, dramatic, spicy, intense.

• J. Dusi. Dante’s granddaughter Janell pays tribute to her grandfather and family heritage by adding intriguing Carignane, Grappa and Port to the regular Zinfandel.

• Four Vines. Winemaker Christian Tietje and his partners have cultivated a eccentric image with flamboyant labels that match the flashy wines.

• Grey Wolf. This family-owned winery founded by Joe and Shirlene Barton in 1994 now has son Joe as its winemaker. He makes a wide range of Zinfandels, Rhone-style wines, as well as cabernet-based wines.

• Turley. This has been an iconic name in California winemaking ever since they released their first wines in 1993. There are now dozens of Turley Zinfandels from all over the state. But they thought so highly of Paso, they bought the old Pesenti vineyard and established a winery here. Malani Anderson, representing the company, presented their amazingly pure Dusi Zin.

We followed these tours with lunch at Thomas Hill Organics a friendly, casual market-bistro two blocks from the downtown square that served spectacularly fresh food, not surprising since it much of it came from their own organic farm. Joeli Yaguda of Pasolivo, a gourmet olive oil company, also treated us to a fascinating tasting of locally grown olive oils.

Alex and Monica Villicana joined us to share wines from their Villicana winery. Although Alex and Monica were SoCal folks, their connection to Paso goes back to 1990 when Alex began working harvests there. Six years later, they purchased property, planted a vineyard and in 2002 moved their family to Paso to focus full time on their winery. They make very interesting wines and even share a tasting room with Pasolivo.

Dinner that night was at the home of L’Aventure owner/winemaker Stephan Asseo and his wife Beatrice. Also attending were close friends and neighboring vintners Terry and Jennifer Hoage, of Terry Hoage Vineyards, and Marc Goldberg and Maggie D’Ambrosia, of Windward Vineyard. This was a smart move by the alliance, as these friends amply demonstrated the camaraderie of the Paso Robles wine community. Local chef and caterer Jeffrey Scott prepared the meal, with food sourced from within a 30-mile radius of Paso Robles. Here is additional information about these three outstanding wineries.

• After beginning his winemaking career in Bordeaux but becoming frustrated with the strictures of Bordeaux law, Stephan and Beatrice searched California for a place to locate their own winery. In 1997, they decided Paso Robles was ideal and L’Aventure has become one of Paso’s most celebrated wineries. Asseo crafts some of the most highly sought after wines from the area. His innovative blends – varying combinations of cabernet sauvignon, petite verdot and Rhone varietals.

• After a 13-year NFL career, Terry Hoage and his wife Jennifer, who had been an interior designer, decided on new careers as vintners. They established Terry Hoage Vineyards with the purchase of a vineyard in 2002 and have quickly gained wide recognition for their solely Rhone-style w

ines (of course, all with clever football-related names).

• It’s something you don’t hear much in this region but at Windward Marc Goldberg and Maggie D’Ambrosia produce fine Pinot Noir and only Pinot Noir. Attracted by the success that Dr. Stanley Hoffman and the great Andre Tchelistcheff had with the storied Hoffman Mountain Rnach Pinot Noirs of the 1960s and 1970s, they came to Paso in 1990 to realize a life long dream to make high quality, Burgundian-style pinot.

The next morning showcased Paso’s current claim to fame and what many believe to be the region’s future: Rhone varietals. A panel of nine winemakers/owners gathered at Hope Family Wines to present wines representing the quality and diversity of Rhone-style wines from the region.

• Viognier from Thatcher, whose winemaker Sherman Thatcher, is a former craft brewer who also produces distinctive Zinfandel and Rhone-style wines.

• Roussanne from Kenneth Volk, the founder of Wild Horse winery, who has been committed to Paso since 1981. Although his new, eponymous winery is located

in Santa Barbara, he produces his Bordeaux-style wines and most of his Rhone style wines from Paso fruit.

• Cote du Robles Blanc (roussanne and Grenache blanc) from Eberle. Gary Eberle’s history in Paso reaches back to 1973 and his own winery dates to 1979. Even as attention is paid to the many new Paso wineries, pioneers like Eberle continue to deserve attention.

• A Rhone blend Rose from Anglim, a mostly Rhone focused winery worth your attention, especially the blends.

• Grenache from Austin Hope. The Hope family has been respected grape growers in the region since 1978. Now under the direction of son Austin, the family also produces Treana, Liberty School, and Candor wines.

• “Damas Noir” Mourvedre from Villa Creek. The owners established a popular restaurant in downtown Paso Robles in 1997 and gradually moved into winemaking. Both are worth seeking out.

• Cuvee des Cinc (five Rhone varietals) from Edward Sellers. Ed and his wife Dani left other careers to come to Paso in 2003 and now specialize in Rhone-style win

es, particularly several innovative blends.

• Petite Sirah from Vina Robles. Here is another European transplant, this time from Switzerland, that recognized the potential for great wine from Paso Robles. A Paso resident for 12 years now, Vina Robles produces a wide ranges of wines.

After the tasting, we had lunch outdoors at Farmstand 46, a gourmet deli and the only restaurant (not counting winery cafes) located among the cluster of wineries best accessed from Highway 46 West. This oasis is a collaboration by the owners of Four Vines and the Executive Chef

of Villa Creek restaurant.

Besides location, they really have created a great thing here. The vegetables and herbs come almost exclusively from their own organic garden planted on the property. Most of the meats come from local producers. And the pizzas! We had a delightful lunch of gourmet pizzas cooked in the outdoor wood-fired oven.

After lunch, we made the 45-minute drive to the Hearst Ranch, where about a 1000 cattle graze on the 150,000 acres surrounding the famous Hearst Castle near San Simeon. The ranch is dedicated to producing grass fed beef for its healthier composition, better taste, and its benefits for animal welfare and the environment. And we washed down our juicy samples of beef with wines from the new Hearst Winery.

We finished our day in the seaside village of Cayucos where we enjoyed a special dinner at the gorgeous Cass House Inn & Restaurant. Chef Jensen Lorenzen, who works closely with local farmers and foragers, prepared the meal. We were joined the owners of four of Paso’s newest wineries.

• Co-owner Karl Wittstrom of Ancient Peaks, which was established in 2005 and boasts the southernmost vineyard in the Paso Robles AVA. The property also includes a working cattle ranch.

• Aram Deirmenjian of Kiamie, who comes from a family of table grape growers, founded Kiamie in 2004 with partner Greg Johnson. Aram believes that blends are the future of Paso wine. So, that’s all winemaker Steve Glosser makes, and he may just prove Aram right.

• Kevin Jussila of Kukkula. Jussila and his family moved from southern California to Paso in 2004. They now produce Zinfandel, Rhone varietals and Cabernet Sauvignon, which soon will be certified organic.

• Neil Collins of Lone Madrone. Neil, who has been the winemaker at Tablas Creek since 1998, has also been making Lone Madrone wine with his sister Jackie Meisinger since 1996.

Surely, Paso Robles has seen impressive winery growth. There were approximately 35 wineries in 1995, 50 in 2000, 100 in 2005, and around 200 today. But that is only the beginning of this region’s story. there are six basic reasons why this region in the Central Coast of California may just be the next great wine destination.

Terroir. There are more calcareous soils (limestone soils highly prized by vintners) than anywhere else in California. It has one of the greatest diurnal temperature swings (often 40-50 degrees between day and night). It has one of the longest, most consistent growing seasons. And there is a wide diversity of soils, topography and microclimates.

Fruit. There is a foundational grape – zinfandel – that has long drawn attention to the region. The region now is emerging as the best source of Rhone-style wines outside of the Rhone itself. And it still produces large quantities of cabernet sauvignon that provides a base for many producers all over California.

Location. Paso Robles is centrally located about half way between Los Angeles and San Francisco. It is just 10-20 miles east of the Pacific Ocean, several quaint seaside villages, and the Hearst Castle. It is also a relatively short drive to Monterey in the north and Santa Barbara in the south.

Food. During this visit, we were treated to an amazing variety and quality of raw ingredients – some of the freshest, purest I’ve ever tasted – and some of the most creative cooking. I was impressed by the extent to which almost everyone had embraced sustainable practices.

People. Passionate, dedicated growers and vintners – families who have made Paso their home for generations and who are being joined by a new generation who has chosen to come to this place because of its beauty and potential (see above) but also because of the camaraderie among the producers.

Hospitality. Ninety percent of the wineries make 5000 case or less. They are family run businesses. And you are likely to find one of those family members there when you visit the winery.

For these reasons, I believe Paso Robles may be the next great wine region, if it isn’t already. Anyone looking for a wine country vacation should put Paso Robles at the top of their list.

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The Temecula Valley

My niece, Cari, is my idea of a wine aficionado. She not only is knowledgeable about a wide range of wines and wine regions, she also is passionate about all aspects of wine. And she is especially knowledgeable and enthusiastic about her home wine region, the Temecula Valley. So much so she has been begging my family and I to come visit her for several years now. Of course, she’s wanted to see us, but I know she also has been anxious to show me the Temecula Valley.

The Temecula Valley is southern California’s wine country. The first thing I noticed about the valley was its rather convenient location for tourist visits, being close to the suburban housing developments nearby. It also is just 60 miles northeast of San Diego and 90 miles southeast of LA. If you are taking your kids to nearby Legoland, visiting friends in the area or just want a wine country experience other than Napa and Sonoma, the Temecula Valley is a worthy option.

Head east from I-15 on Rancho California Road, which becomes the valley’s main drag (sort of like what Highway 29 is for Napa Valley). You can expect to find a wine country experience similar to that of any larger, better know region. Among the 30+ wineries, there are small, family wineries and larger, modern wineries. Several feature restaurants, well-stocked gift shops and facilities for special events, and many tasting rooms offer discounts for veterans.

As for the vineyards, the valley struck me as a region with more similarity in terrain, soil and climate than I have seen in other regions I have visited. Most vineyards sit at a fairly high elevation, 1100-1600 feet. Although there is some variation, the soils are largely decomposed granite. The climate features warm, dry days and cool evenings. Although separated from the Pacific Ocean by the Santa Rosa Range, the Rainbow Gap funnels the moderating ocean breezes into the valley.

Traveling on Rancho California Road, one of the first wineries you will see as you enter the valley is Hart Winery. Joe Travis, Nancy Hart and their three sons began planting vineyards in 1974 and added the winery in 1980. This small, family operation has the feel of a place that hasn’t changed much in the last 30 years. That’s a good thing – the rustic barn-like winery recedes to leave the emphasis on thewide range of wines.

A short distance up the Road, John Poole established Mount Palomar Winery’s first vineyards also in 1969 and began making his own wine in 1975. His son, Peter, took over operation in 1985. Today, Mount Palomar includes an estate comprised of vineyards, a large piazza, concert stage, and terraces plus the winery and visitor’s center. The wines emphasize Bordeaux style blends and Italian varieties (bottled under the Castelletto name).

Across the road, Falkner Winery is located high on a hill with a spectacular view overlooking the Valley. Ray and Loretta Falkner left corporate careers to establish the property in 2000. A showcase winery, with extensive inside and outside tasting areas, wedding and banquet facilities are available. The focus here is on blended wines, including Super Tuscan Style and Bordeaux Style red blends.

Expect an even more impressive tourist attraction winery is the Ponte Family Estate. It was conceived and built by Ponte brothers Roberto and Claudio, grape growers in Temecula since 1984. A large tasting room-market-gift shop greets the visitor. We also enjoyed a fine, elegant lunch at the outdoor Smokehouse Restaurant. A bit off the beaten path, at the far end of Rancho California Road, Doffo Winery is worth the extra effort. Marcelo Doffo purchased the property in 1997. From the road it looked like another nice home with a large garage. Inside, though, the hospitable Doffo family busily attended to their customers need.

Two of the best wineries we visited were located completely off the main road. Cougar Vineyards and Winery (purchased in 2005) is the culmination of what startedas a hobby for Rick and Jennifer Buffington 16 years ago. The small production focuses primarily on Italian varietals. Nicholas and Cindy Palumbo purchased what is now Palumbo Family Vineyards

and Winery in1998. Another small, family run winery, the Palumbo’s are committed to small lot, handcrafted wines from varieties that are grown only on the property. Specializing in full-bodied reds, the estate-grown and produced offerings include both single variety bottlings as well as a few special blends.

There is much more to the valley than we could cover in two days, including a full-fledged resort and a few large, commercial wineries, like Callaway Vineyard and Winery (think the golf equipment company of the same name). Having pioneered wine production in the valley in 1969, Callaway has become the valley’s largest, best known and most widely distributed producer. But Cari and I agreed that the smaller, family-owned operations are our preference. Callaway’s Sweet Nancy certainly is a fine dessert but the other highlights all came from family wineries: Hart’s full flavored 2007 Sauvignon Blanc, Mt. Palomar’s Solera Cream Sherry, Ponte’s 2006 Dolcetto, Doffo’s 2005 Syrah and 2005 Mistura (cabernet/syrah), Cougar’s 2006 Aglianico and 2006 Malbec, and Palumbo’s 2005 Cabernet Franc Catfish Vineyard and “Tre Fratelli” (Bordeaux blend).

After a setback in the 1990s when its vineyard sources were ravaged by Pierce’s Disease and vineyard acreage fell from 2,300 to 1,300 acres, the valley seems to have largely recovered and should benefit from the replanting that has followed. Many producers are getting especially good results with Rhone and Italian varietals. The Temecula Valley looks poised for a fine future. I look forward to tracking its progress.

For information on Temecula Valley, the winegrowers’ association, and travel information, check out http://www.temeculawines.org/.

For winery details and to shop for Temecula wines, go to http://www.shoptemeculawines.com/.

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Visit Santa Fe for Great Food (but Don’t Forget Albuquerque)

If cities have a soul, Santa Fe’s soul emanates from its food, a synthesis of its native and Spanish heritage with Western U.S. influences and more recently an appreciation of the variety of the world’s cuisines and the importance of the local, organic ethic. My wife and I have visited Santa Fe at least once a year for the past 22 years (the last nine with our son). We also have made excursions to Taos and Albuquerque but it is Santa Fe that draws us each year. We are well aware of its reputation as an ultra chic, elitist enclave but we ignore that aspect of the city when we visit to focus on the history and culture.

And most importantly the food. As long as we have been coming to this special place, I am impressed at how many restaurants from those early days are still around. There have been some lamentable closures, though, the most recent of which was the shuttering of Cloud Cliff Bakery, Cafe and Art Space. Stopping by Cloud Cliff for breakfast on our last day before heading home had become a tradition. I always looked forward to a dose of their organic food, eclectic art and progressive politics to complete our trip.

The disappointment of losing Cloud Cliff was balanced on this weekend trip by our successful strategy of trying out restaurants we had never been to before. Some of these had been around a while but for some reason we just hadn’t made our way to them until now. Maria’s New Mexican Kitchen (www.marias-santafe.com) is a Santa Fe icon, having served its popular menu of New Mexican standards under its current ownership for 23 years. We went for lunch and enjoyed our meal so much we wondered why it took us so long to get there. By the way, I had a beer with my lunch but everything I read says their margaritas are legendary. For dinner our first night we ate at Andiamo (www.andiamoonline.com) in the Railyard District. I had read good things about this place for several years and we were glad we finally made it in. This is serious Italian food at reasonable prices. Located in a cozy house, this is an elegant, yet casual restaurant well worth a visit. For breakfast the next day, we stopped by Counter Culture (no website), whose name is an apt double entendre for this funky, casual place. We enjoyed our breakfast: pancakes, burrito, eggs, pastries and really good coffee. But looking at the extensive list of sandwiches on the lunch menu, I made a mental note that this would be a lunch stop next year.

rich mauro the peoples palate

But I have to say the highlight of the trip was our dinner at La Boca, (www.labocasantafe.com) which is located just a couple of blocks north of the Plaza. The place, as it happens, recently had been named the city?s best new restaurant by several publications. La Boca essentially is a tapas restaurant, which was perfect for us because we like to try a variety of items when we dine, especially at a restaurant for the first time. The prices were reasonable, though you must be careful because those little dishes can add up just like at a sushi restaurant. The only down side is that the place is very small, even a little cramped.

This year, we decided to spend our last day in Albuquerque. In addition to taking our son to the impressive Museum of Natural History and Science, we enjoyed three very good meals. For dinner Friday night, we went to the Nob Hill Bar & Grill. This place was the perfect combination for us: a lively neighborhood bar and restaurant that serves very good food. No question this is a hip, hopping place ? and it deserve to be, as much for its contemporary take on comfort foods, as for its inviting atmosphere. The next morning we went back to the Nob Hill neighborhood for breakfast at the Flying Start Cafe. The draw was hearty entrees, an extensive array of baked goods, and strong coffee, not to mention a great selection of magazines. As a bonus, the restaurant (and its seven sibling restaurants and related Satellite coffeehouses) prides itself on using organic ingredients whenever possible and sourcing as many products as possible from local producers. If I lived in Albuquerque, I’m sure I’d be at this place at least three or four times a week. Before we made our way back to Denver that afternoon, we stopped at the Gold Street Caffe in downtown for a quick lunch. We found a small but friendly and nicely appointed restaurant. Our sandwiches were large, well made and tasty; a fine send off before we headed home.

I have long been of the opinion that Santa Fe is one of the best dining cities in the country. First, the city has its own unique cuisine, a blend of Spanish, Mexican and Native American influences, but also has great restaurants serving a wide variety of world cuisines. Our recent trip confirmed this once again. And the last day of our trip gave us some hints that Albuquerque is worth more attention in the future.

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Winery at Holy Cross Abbey, A True Local Winery

This month’s column is presented as my contribution to Regional Wine Week. A project of Jeff Siegel, wine columnist for the Fort Worth Star-Telegram, and Dave McIntyre, wine columnist for the Washington Post, the goal is to focus attention on local wineries. With every state now having a winery (Colorado is nearing 70) and quality improving steadily, this a good time to discover (or rediscover) our local wineries. To learn more, check out www.drinklocalwine.com during the week of October 6.

Canon City, Colorado is one of the last places I would have expected to find a winery, let alone a really good one. But that just shows my own ignorance. Being from Denver, I pretty much only knew Canon City as the home of state and federal prisons and the gateway to the Royal Gorge (the world’s highest suspension bridge). But there it is about three miles east of town, The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey. Given the Catholic Church’s long history with viticulture, it shouldn’t be too surprising to find a winery here. Plus, the Canon City area has a log farming tradition, reaching back to the late 1800s that developed on the heels of the nearby mining boom. Benedictine monks built the Holy Cross Abbey in the early 1920s on orchard land. The Abbey was the base for the order and it’s education programs and, of course, the monks made wine.

But times change. Eventually, the winemaking stopped and in 1985, the Abbey school closed. Still, some of the fathers dreamt of resurrecting the Abbey’s winemaking tradition. They hired Matt Cookson in 2000 to consult in the planting of a vineyard on the property. Matt had been a winemaker in New York and in California (where he worked for St. Francis, Keenan and Rombauer) and had been coming to Colorado to consult with wineries on the Western Slope. The fathers realized an opportunity when they saw it and asked Matt and his wife Sally to help them build and operate a winery and tasting room. The couple already had developed an attraction to the area and decided to make the move from California. Over the following five years, the Cooksons built a successful operation. Then, in 2006, the Abbey closed and the Winery’s future suddenly was in doubt. But the timing of the closure was fortuitous. The fathers were able to sell the winery to Larry Oddo, a New York City accountant who had just moved to Canon City the year before with his family looking for a change in lifestyle.

The Cooksons became partners with Oddo in 2007. And with this partnership, The Winery has continued the success that began in 2002, when the winery produced 3000 cases. This year, they produced nearly 13,000 cases, which Matt says may be more than any other Colorado winery. As Matt continues to win awards for his wines, Sally has led the sales and marketing. This has included organizing special events such as hosting fundraisers, a bike ride, an art and music weekend, and the annual Harvest Fest. Sally also has grown the tasting room/gift shop into a bona fide tourist attraction. Housed in a charming cottage, walk through the doors and you might think you are at an intimate family owned winery in California. Within this welcoming environment, you will find bottles of wine, of course; art and crafts from Colorado and around the world; cooking, wine and travel books; and a variety of food- and wine-related accessories.

Tasting of most wines is complimentary, although the Reserves cost $1. There also is a comforting tree-lined park where you can sip wine or eat while enjoying views of the nearby vineyard, the Abbey and the Rocky Mountains. All of this success hinges on the quality of the wines and here there is no doubt. I have tasted many of Matt’s wines over the last few years and continue to be impressed, as I was at the winemaker dinner on the Friday night before this year’s Harvest Fest. As committed as Matt is to Colorado and Colorado grapes (with most grown on Colorado’s Western Slope), he is not afraid to go out of state, if necessary, to get the best fruit. At the dinner, several of the wines were sourced from California and Washington.

We tasted an American Riesling ($14), which Matt considers his flagship. Good acidity lifts peach and apple flavors. And most of the grapes are from Washington. We followed with a crisp, fruitful 2007 Sauvignon Blanc Reserve ($25) made with grapes from Lodi and a succulent 2007 Chardonnay ($19), whose tropical fruit came courtesy of Monterey.  Colorado, though, was well represented by the full, rich 2006 Merlot Reserve ($26), the oaky, curranty 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve ($26), and the soft, tangy 2006 Cabernet Franc ($22). The meal was brought to a fine completion with the Port-style 2004 Colorado Merlot “Divinity” ($25). The Winery also uses Colorado grapes for its regular release Sauvignon Blanc, ($16) Cabernet Sauvignon ($20), Merlot ($20) and Syrah ($21). The Winery also produces several fun (read mostly sweet) wines: Apple Blossom (from locally grown apples, $12), Vineyard Sunset (White Merlot/White Zinfandel. $11), Colorado Nouveau (whole berry fermented Merlot, $14), and Wild Canon Harvest (a light red wine made from around 21 varieties, $11).

Ultimately, what is equally impressive to me is how the Winery and Matt, Sally and Larry have become an integral part of the local community.  From the hosting of special events and fundraisers to using artwork from local artists Edward Adamic, and Paula Fasken on labels. From hiring area native, Jeff Stolz ,as assistant winemaker to using apples from nearby Colon Orchards and Juniper Valley Farms for the Apple Blossom. And, in what is surely the most populist wine I know of, the Wild Canon Harvest is made from grapes grown by upwards of 100 local growers.  It seems to me this is the essence of Regional Wine Week and of what it means to be a local winery.

THE DETAILS: The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey, 3011 E. Highway 50, Canon City, CO 81212; (719) 276-5191, toll free 877-422-9463; www.abbeywinery.com. The winery is about two hours south of Denver, 45 minutes south of Colorado Springs and 40 minutes west of Pueblo. The tasting room/gift shop is open Monday-Saturday 10-6 and Sunday 11-5.

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Food and Wine Classic in Aspen Also Features Prime Spirits and Beer

food and fine classsic aspen 2009Samuel Adams Chocolate Bock (750 ml, $15) lives up to its name but is balanced and flavorful. Two good values in Sherry, the medium intensity Dry Sack ($15) and Dry Sack 15 ($26), a complex, rich Oloroso. Grand Duque de Alba “Solera Gran Reserva” ($46), a smooth, rich Spanish brandy sporting deep aromas and flavors of nuts, caramel, butterscotch and brown spices. Lovers of cream liqueurs should skip the Baileys and seek out Crema de Alba ($25). Remy Martin 1989 Vintage Cognac is truly special and rare with rich, complex aromas and flavors and “only” $300 a bottle! You think that’s expensive? The amazingly concentrated and complex The Macallan 55 Year Old Single Malt Scotch is bottled in Lalique crystal and rings in at $12,000, which, come to think of it, makes the little splash I had worth about $240!food and wine classic aspen 2008

For more information, check out: http://www.foodandwine.com/promo/classic/

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Meadowood

rich mauro the peoples palate

In the Napa Valley, It Doesn’t Get Any Better Than Meadowood. I have had the pleasure of staying at the Meadowood resort in the Napa Valley twice now, first in March of 2006 and again in July 2007. Nestled in a valley, a crease really, in the eastern foothills of the Napa Valley (roughly as far north as St. Helena), Meadowood is an amazing property. There is a refreshingly rustic feel to being surrounded by forest as you rest in your cottage. But make no mistake; Meadowood is a refined and eminently civilized place. Once inside your cottage, you feel as if you are in an elegant hotel.The civility is reinforced by the availability of golf, tennis and croquet. And a nightly wine reception offers a white and red Napa Valley wine to enjoy and an opportunity for conversation with fellow visitors.A notable offering is an extensive wine education program directed by Master Sommelier Gilles Chambure. Guests can (for an additional charge) avail themselves of a wide array of wine tasting sessions, winery tours and other wine-related services.And now The Restaurant at Meadowood has become a jewel of the resort. I left our meal there in July convinced that this is one of the best restaurants in the Napa Valley. Chef Joseph Humphrey prepares impeccable contemporary cuisine using fresh, local, seasonal ingredients (some even from the Meadowood’s own organic garden).There are three-course ($65), four-course ($80) and five-course ($95) Prix Fixe menus, as well as a Chef’s Tasting Menu ($120). Of course, the wine list is heavy on Napa Valley wines but there is also an impressive selection of wines from around the world.It is no surprise to me that Esquire recently named The Restaurant one of the best new restaurants in America and the Michelin Guide just gave it two stars (three is the most they give).Granted, both the resort and the restaurant are very expensive. But the next time you are looking for a splurge, you can do no better than Meadowood.

For more information, check out: http://www.meadowood.com/winecuisine/the-restaurant/

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Hank’s is a Great Choice for Seafood in Washington D.C.

I just had to report on a great restaurant I discovered while I was in Washington, DC recently. Whenever I am in DC I consider it a must to visit the area around Dupont Circle. With some of the city’s best bookstores (like Kramerbooks) and museums (most notably the Phillips Collection) and arguably the liveliest street life in the city, rich maurothis area draws me much more that traditional tourist favorites like Georgetown.

Actually, the main attraction for me is the wealth of cafes and neighborhood restaurants. And on a recent visit I was invited to sample the fare at a recent addition to the neighborhood, Hank’s Oyster Bar. The restaurant is located just a few blocks from Dupont Circle in the heart of the diverse neighborhood around 17th and Q streets. In case you didn’t know, the Dupont Circle area also has long been one of DC’s most gay friendly neighborhoods. And Hank’s is run by Jamie Leeds, a skilled chef and restaurateur who just happens to be a lesbian. After spending years laboring in other DC restaurants, she opened her own place in May 2005. Jamie has modeled the restaurant after the popular oyster bars and seafood hangouts in Boston, New York and San Francisco. Hank’s also is a tribute to chef Leeds’s late father who was a fisherman.

Being a neighborhood restaurant, it is moderately sized, with seating for about 65 people inside and around 20 outside. The menu changes daily, offering several inviting specials but also many seafood classics. We immediately felt welcome, and not because they knew I was going to write a review. The place just felt welcoming and we could sense the pleasure of the diners, and see it on their faces. Naturally, we started with a look at the blackboard for the daily oyster and clam selection ($2 each), which also listed sake oyster shooters, jumbo shrimp cocktail and seafood ceviche. Then some excellent sourdough bread bridged the gap until our small plates ($6 to $13) arrived. We enjoyed lobster bisque and fried oysters but the popcorn shrimp and calamari, Caesar salad, and crab cakes looked just as good. The night we were there they also offered special small plates of steamed Penn Cove mussels, chilled Old Bay peel & eat shrimp, and shad roe with bacon. When it came to sampling the large plates ($11 to $22), we opted for the daily fish specials. Sable fish, mahi mahi and Arctic char all were fresh and expertly prepared.

The regular menu offered an oyster Po’ Boy, fried oysters, Ipswitch clams, a lobster and roll seared scallops. Believe me, it was a difficult choice. For those not in the mood for fish, there is a daily-changing “Meat & Two” menu (plus two sides). This included offerings such as short ribs, chicken schnitzel, pork chop, Flat Iron steak, Hangar steak and Beef Brisket. Hank’s also offers a market veggie plate. Sides ($4 each) are much more than the typical Cole Slaw, French Fries, and onion rings, although they have those, too. We adventured out of our comfort zone to order French green lentils, sesame snow peas and collard greens and were not disappointed. The one drawback is that Hank’s does not serve dessert (the kitchen’s too small) but they try to make up for it by bringing some excellent dark chocolate along with the bill.

Although some in our group still were disappointed, I just looked at it as a convenient excuse to move on to one of the great cafes in the area. And the wine list? Well, since this is a wine column I must tell you that the list is a really good match for the food and accessibly priced. Among the whites, we could choose sauvignon blanc from France or South Africa and chardonnay from France or California. But there also were more interesting choices, like French Muscadet, Austrian Gruner Veltliner, and Alsatian Pinot Gris. The red wines also were well chosen. A prime choice for fish, there was pinot noir from France, California and Oregon. But it was also nice to see alternatives, such as tempranillo from Spain, shiraz from Australia and malbec from Argentina. Once I got back to Denver, I wanted to see if I was alone in my favorable impression and found just the opposite. A few examples: Troy Petenbrink in The Washington Blade wrote, “Hank’s Oyster Bar is an excellent and much needed addition to the 17th Street dining scene.” Tom Sietsema of the Washington Post concluded, “Though the atmosphere is casual, this fish is first-rate.” And the Washingtonian magazine recently ranked Hank’s as one of the city’s top 100 restaurants.

Bottom line, Hank’s is a great neighborhood restaurant, a casual place where the food is anything but casual. And, in true neighborly fashion, the prices (including the wines) are more reasonable than other D.C. restaurants of comparable quality. If only Denver had a place like this.

VITAL STATISTICS: 1624 Q Street, NW, between 16th and 17th Streets. (202-462-4265). Hours: Sun-Tue 5:30pm-10pm; Wed- Sat 5:30pm-11pm; Sat-Sun Brunch 11am-3pm. Website: www.hanksdc.com