The People's Palate with Rich Mauro

Some of my favorite wines anywhere have their origin in the south of France, especially the Rhône Valley. The valley, which runs roughly from Vienne in the north to Avignon in the south, is divided geographically and viticulturally into two regions – north and south. Most Rhône wines are red, though there are a few notable whites. 

The north is syrah country. The best wines tend toward substance and power, intensely concentrated fruit, pepper and strong tannins. The two leading appellations – Hermitage and Côte Rôtie – are among the most prestigious wines anywhere. But this makes their prices almost uniformly out of reach for most.

Not far behind in quality but more accessible in price is Cornas. A good example is the 2019 Vincent Paris “Granit 30” ($50): bright red and black fruit, concentrated but fresh, balanced with floral, mineral and savory notes, robust yet supple textured.

Other appellations vying for a place at the alternative table include St. Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage. The 2018 Tardieu-Laurent Crozes-Hermitage “Vieilles Vignes” ($35) is a particularly nice bottle of black fruits, herb, stone, white pepper, and floral notes glide along a silky palate.

The southern Rhône also has several appellations of interest, the most famous being Châteauneuf du Pape. In contrast to the northern Rhône, grenache is the most prominent grape and most of the wines are blends adding proportions of syrah mourvèdre and smaller amounts of cinsault, carignan and others. 

Arguably the best after Châteauneuf is Gigondas. Its vineyards often produce earthy wines of good structure. Like the 2017 Domaine St. Gayan “Origine” ($35): approachable, cherries, red plum, currant, cinnamon, supple tannins. 

Near Gigondas, Costières de Nîmes is a hidden treasure and a reliable source of value. Red blends dominate; syrah is the main variety, with grenache and mourvèdre, and small amounts of cinsault and carignan. My tasting revealed a fine 2019 Château Mourgues du Grès “Galets Rouges” ($18): savory and spicy notes in addition to violets, red fruit and dark berries; and organically grown 2018 Château Mourgues du Grès “Terre d’Argence” ($17): cassis, plum, stony, supple, chalky tannins. 

Costières de Nîmes white wines, also mostly blends, are as diverse and unique as its reds. The most common grapes include grenache blanc, viognier, marsanne, and roussanne. I enjoyed the 2022 Château De Valcombe “Chateau Blanc” ($13): fruity, pear, apple, anise, supple, round; and 2019 Domaine Gassier “Nostre Païs Blanc” ($17): fresh, lively, apple, orange, silky texture. 

Wines blended from different vineyards throughout the valley labeled Côtes du Rhône can be some of the best red wine values in the world. Solid, flavorful and tannic, they are great for everyday. Two good examples are the aromatic, minty, mellow 2017 Vidal-Fleury ($15); and 2019 Domaine Saint Gayan “Trescartes” ($15): juicy black cherry, earthy richness.

While sparkling wine is the wine of choice for special occasions, bubbly can be enjoyed any time and on any occasion. But you likely will want a sparkler that doesn’t carry the price tag of Champagne. Luckily, interesting, delicious and affordable sparkling wine is made just about everywhere on the planet. Often the Champagne grape varieties of pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier are used, though many experiment with other varieties. I offer several from Italy, a couple from France and several from California to give you a head start. (NOTE: All are nonvintage, unless otherwise state.)

Outside of Champagne, French Méthode Champenois (or Méthode Traditionelle) is known as Crémant and is a fine value. Crémant De Limoux from the Languedoc region typically is distinguished with the addition of chenin blanc. The Côté Mas “M” Brut ($13) is 60% chardonnay, 20% chenin blanc, 10% pinot noir, and 10% mauzac – citrus, green apple, pear, creamy texture. 

In Italy, it’s Metodo Classico. Franciacorta, from Lombardy, produces ripe, precise, complex, and silky bubbles. The 2017 Corte Bianca Rose Extra Brut ($48) is 80% pinot nero (noir), 20% chardonnay with a structure balanced between briskness and fullness, persistence, red berries, vanilla and mineral. The 1701 winery’s 2018 “Saten” Brut ($38) is 100% chardonnay, dry, fresh, with apple, orange, lemon and a salty note.

Alta Langa from southern Piedmont reportedly was Italy’s first sparkling wine, dating to the mid-1800s. The 2018 Enrico Serafino “Oudeis” Brut ($30), 80% pinot noir, 20% chardonnay, offers refined citrus, light toast, elegant palate and admirable complexity.

California also makes many fine sparkling wines. Most of the best use the traditional method and Champagne grapes pinot noir, chardonnay, pinot meunier. 

Frank Family. A premier Napa Valley producer since its establishment in 1992, these wines are sourced from its acclaimed Lewis Vineyard in Carneros: 2016 Blanc de Blancs ($60), 100% chardonnay; lively citrus, delicate, rich; 2017 Brut Rosé ($60) 100% pinot noir; complex red berries, citrus, full, yet refined texture.

Laetitia. Another longtime favorite of mine. From the Arroyo Grande Valley in California’s Central Coast, these Estate grown bubbles are especially affordable. The Brut Cuvee RM ($29), 67% chardonnay, 33% pinot noir, offers apple, brioche, creamy lemon and toasty notes. The 2020 Brut Rosé RM ($29) 65% chardonnay, 35% pinot noir leans to strawberry, peach, and fresh bread. 

Seppi. This is a new one to me and the wines are impressive. The debut project from Kelsey Phelps Finch, granddaughter of Napa Valley pioneer Joseph Phelps. The 2018 Blanc de Blancs ($48), 100% chardonnay, presents crisp green apple, grapefruit, toasted brioche and richness. The 2018 Brut Rosé ($52), 95% chardonnay, 5% pinot noir, shows raspberry with apple, pear and hints of baking spices.

While there’s a tradition of presenting special holiday gifts, special often just means expensive. A wine gift, for instance, is even more special if it is something distinctive. I’ve tasted two such table wines that fit that description. 

2019 Donnafugata “Mille e una Notte” ($91) From a 40-year-old winery and a family with 170 years’ experience winemaking in Sicily; a blend of mostly nero d’avola, petit verdot, syrah. Loads of dark fruits (cherry, currant, plum) meld with olive, spice, cocoa and a hint of licorice in a richly concentrated wine that will surprise anyone. 

2012 Bertani Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico ($130) From a benchmark Valpolicella producer (since 1857) and creator of the first Amarone in 1958. Native corvina (80%) and rondinella are dried for 99 days to concentrate the juice which then is aged eight years. The result is juicy dark red fruits – berries, plums, currants, notes of anise, balsamic, dried herb, mineral, smoke, earth, savory spice. A wine of intensity and dramatic richness, but with fine definition and elegant tannins.

After dinner and dessert wines certainly fit the special description. 

2016 Dolce ($100, 375 ml) From a premier Napa Valley winery that focuses on (of course) on Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, this late harvest wine (88% sémillon, 12% sauvignon blanc from winery owned vineyards solely dedicated to this wine) is modeled after France’s Sauternes. Aging 28 months in 100% new oak imparts luxurious notes of crème brûlée, vanilla and light cinnamon to balance unctuous, lively apricot, pear, and honeysuckle.

2016 Domaine Sigalas Vinsanto ($100) From one of Greece’s finest producers and the flagship grape variety of the Greek island of Santorini, assyrtiko, along with 25% aidini. While assyrtiko is mostly made into a diverse range of refreshing white wines, its typical texture, acidity, and minerality, make it ideal for Vinsanto, a naturally sweet wine from sun dried grapes. After long fermentation and aging in oak barrels seven years, a succulent mix of fig, raisin, spice, molasses, hazelnut, butterscotch, maple, and honey, emerge with luscious elegance.

Pio Cesare Barolo Chinato ($110) From one of Piedmont’s most highly regarded producers, this is a “digestif”, traditionally drunk after a meal to aid digestion. Though there is little scientific evidence of medicinal properties, digestifs still are widely popular. This one uses an ancient family recipe: an infusion of chinchona (China Calissaja and Succirubra barks that contains quinine), macerated for 21 days in a small amount of Barolo, plus a mixture of aromatic herbs, including gentian roots, rhubarb, cardamom seeds, sweet and bitter orange, cinnamon. The result drinks with impressive purity and definition, at times displaying each of those ingredients. At just 16% ABV, it is sweet, fresh, and rich, it’s delightful neat and served with dark chocolate dessert or ice cream.

Colorado Wine has been growing and improving by large leaps over the last thirty years. Which is especially welcome this time of year as wine from Colorado makes a fine holiday gift. 

A good place to start is with the 2023 Governor’s Cup Wine Collection winners (https://coloradowine.com/governors-cup/) (all made from Colorado grapes, honey, or other fruit). The winning wineries include Alfred Eames, Balistreri, BookCliff, Dragon Meadery, Restoration, Sauvage Spectrum, Snowy Peaks, Peachfork and Storm Cellar. 

Look for these and other Colorado wines at local shops or online. And of course, the Winery at Holy Cross Abbey is just down the road. You could travel to the Western Slope. 

You also can go to Denver to pick up Balistreri’s award-winning Syrah-CSU Vineyard. At their north Denver winery, winemaker John, his wife Birdie and daughter Julie offer tastings, tours, a fine lunch seven days a week, and space for special events. 

I also recommend a visit to nearby Spero Winery. Spero is open for free tasting on Saturdays 1-5 p.m. or by appointment. And expect complimentary cheese and deli meats available to accompany your tastes. They also can accommodate private tastings, group visits, and special events. 

Another family endeavor, Clyde is the winemaker and his wife June (who is John Balistreri’s sister) manages the business (and just about everything else). The wines I tasted during my visit – Gewurztraminer, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc – fit the style Clyde said he seeks, robust and fruit forward. 

One thing I found fascinating during my conversations with both families is that both John (since 1998) and Clyde (since 1999) have always made their wines using more “traditional” approaches. Clyde uses sulfites sparingly, doesn’t rack or fine his wines, and ages the reds at least two years in barrel.

John goes even further fermenting the grapes with their own yeast and eschewing sulfites, additives, filtering and fining, Basically what these days is called “natural winemaking”. 

Both make their white wines fermenting the juice on their skins, an ancient way of making wine. Skin contact wines (recently dubbed “orange wine”) typically have a golden tint, tart and nutty flavors, and more body than the typical white wine. 

Many in the wine industry praise “maverick” winemakers producing “natural wine” and “orange wine” like they are something new. Clyde and John were making such low intervention wines long before they became fashionable.

One thing for sure, these are not bland, homogenous wines. They are bold, fruity and (to me pleasantly) spicy. And one thing for sure these families know hospitality. Taking care of their customers seems to just be in their blood. And maybe most impressive is that Clyde is 85 and John is 81. Thankfully, they get up every day to make fine wine for us.

As there’s a tradition of people seeking special gifts for the holidays, if you are looking for a wine splurge, California Cabernet Sauvignon is a great place to start. The following recommendations are the best California Cabs I tasted this year. As a bonus, each of these wines has the capacity to age well and improve with time. 

2020 Daou “Soul of a Lion” Paso Robles ($150) named after the founders’ father, this powerful, complex wine naturally is the crown jewel of the winery’s production; 81% cabernet sauvignon, 13% cabernet franc, 6% petit verdot from estate vineyards in the Adelaida District of Paso Robles; intense, blackberry, blackcurrants fruit, savory notes of tobacco, leather, graphite, truffle, cocoa, full-bodied, with a firm structure, yet soft mouthfeel  

2018 Ladera “Reserve” Napa Valley ($179) this 100% cab is sourced from Ladera’s high elevation estate vineyard (Ladera means “hillside” in Spanish) on Howell Mountain, directly opposite the winery along the Silverado Trail, just east of Calistoga; concentrated, flawlessly ripe blueberry, cassis, with mocha, cedar, rocky loam, and a hint of mint, it’s full-bodied, rich and velvety, intense, with amazing energy  

2020 Paul Hobbs “Coombsville” ($120) Paul Hobbs is one of the most highly respected winemakers and consultants on the planet; based in Sonoma, his eponymous winery consistently produces top quality wines from Sonoma and Napa vineyards; this one’s 100% cab from vineyards located at the southeastern edge of the Napa Valley at the foot of the Vaca Mountains; concentrated black cherries, cassis, and blackberries, with notes of tobacco, cinnamon, earth and toast; it’s full-bodied, wrapped in velvety texture 

2017 Mount Veeder “Reserve” ($125) producing wine from high elevation vineyards on Mayacamas Mountains hillsides in the Mt. Veeder AVA on the westside of Napa Valley; 88% cabernet sauvignon, 6% malbec, 6% merlot; intense, succulent black and blue fruits, enticing touches of warm spices, light char, earthy, herbaceous, mineral notes, all held together with fresh, powerful tannins

2018 Gundlach-Bundschu “Vintage Reserve” 160th Anniversary ($140) these families have farmed the (now regenerative organic) Rhinefarm estate vineyard since 1858; this limited bottling is from the west slopes of the Mayacamas Mountains in the Sonoma Valley AVA; 82% cabernet sauvignon, with cabernet franc, malbec, merlot and petit verdot; its bright cassis, blackberry fruit opens to fresh earth, herbs, and complimentary oak, finishing with elegant tannins

2019 Kendall-Jackson “Estates Collection” Hawkeye Mountain ($70) the Estates Collection showcases many of the best Jackson family-owned vineyards; the high-elevation Hawkeye Mountain estate rises to 2,400 feet in Sonoma’s Alexander Valley; it boasts deep red berries with fluid mineral, tobacco, and cedar notes, and glides elegantly along the polished palate muscular, yet soft tannins

I think it is fair to say that Chianti traditionally has been the best known Tuscan wine in the U.S. Speaking of tradition, though, stubborn insistence on adhering to outdated rules led to a decline in quality in the 1960s and 70s. With the introduction of the so-called Super Tuscans in the 1970s and stricter production rules for Chianti beginning in the 1980s, we have tasted steady increases in quality since. 

The primary grape in Chianti, and most Tuscan wines, is sangiovese. Typically, it yields medium bodied wines with lively red fruits, firm, dry structure, and silky tannins. Complexity is revealed in spice, earth, forest, and mineral notes. It often is blended with other native varieties, and increasingly Bordeaux grapes. 

My recent tasting highlighted the amazing quality for the price of a relatively new top quality level of Chianti Classico designated “Gran Selezione”, indicating a selection of the best grapes, requiring 80% sangiovese, estate fruit, and longer aging. 

Two outstanding wines from San Felice are exemplary:

• 2018 “Poggio Rosso” ($58) concentrated, toasty spice, mineral notes 
• 2019 “Il Grigio” ($50) lush, intense, vibrant, savory 

The 2019 Rialzi ($50) from Tenuta Perano was nearly as impressive with its vibrant, toasty, spicy herb character. 

Chianti Rufina generally is considered the next best production zone. And Nipozzano is one of its premier producers. Its 2019 “Vecchie Viti” ($30) from old vines, is elegant, juicy, earthy, stony with nice volume. 

Brunello di Montalcino (100% local sangiovese clone grown around Montalcino in southern Tuscany) is even more prized than Chianti, though usually more expensive. These are some of the most concentrated, muscular, long-lived expressions of sangiovese, as seen in the wines below. 

• 2018 Campogiovanni ($80) owned by San Felice; rich red fruits, dense, full but accessible, herbal, tannic 
• 2018 Castiglion del Bosco ($60) powerful, rich, broad, brawny, darker, savory iron, friendly tannins 

Super Tuscans usually still feature sangiovese but with nonindigenous grapes, particularly cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah. The 2020 Tenute Luce “Lucente” ($40) is an example of a fine moderately priced one. It’s 75% merlot/25% sangiovese, lively, toasty, soft textured with spicy oak and tobacco. 

The 2019 San Felice “Vigorello” ($58) is a blend of 35% pugnitello (a native vine rediscovered by San Felice), 30% merlot, 30% cabernet sauvignon and 5% petit verdot. It presents an enticing bouquet and full figure with spice, mineral, herbs, brightness, and tight tannins. 

Many of the most famous Super Tuscans come from the Bolgheri area along the western Tuscan coast. Typically, the wines exhibit bright cherry fruit, firm, dry structure, and earthy qualities. Another amazing value is the 2021 Podere Sapaio “Volpolo” ($36) 70% cabernet sauvignon, 15% merlot and 15% petit verdot with firm but elegant texture, pure fruit, floral and earthy notes. 

As the calendar marches us into holiday season, most of us will begin soon to plan for our Thanksgiving Day meal. Choosing the wine can be challenging, though. There are so many different types of food, flavors and textures.

First, rule: relax. It’s easy to go down a rabbit hole trying to come up with the perfect match. Turkey actually is versatile, though I don’t suggest heavy, complex reds. In my experience, light- to medium-bodied reds better compliment the meat. And they work with the accompaniments, too.

Pinot Noir comes to mind first. Specifically Pinot Noir D’Alsace for its supple, balanced palate and bright red fruit (cherry, strawberry, cranberry) with savory spice flavors. The 2019 Jean-Baptiste Adam “Les Natures” ($30) made with organically grown grapes, balances vitality with silky tannins. With its solid acidity, it also would be a good complement to ham, creamy potatoes or green beans. Its earthiness harmonizes root vegetables and gravy. And its red fruit stands up to cranberry sauce. 

If you prefer white wine, I recommend dry Alsatian Riesling. It is distinguished by pure aromas, plentiful, focused green apple and citrus fruit, and a bracing grip on the palate. A wine like the 2020 Domaine Emile Beyer “Tradition” ($24) will carve through the fat in the meat and gravy, the stuffing, potatoes, yams and balance the cranberry sauce. 

A Riesling Grand Cru would be even more interesting with its intensely aromatic, fresh, elegant and crystal clear fruit and sharp mineral notes. The 2020 Meyer-Fonne “Wineck-Schlossberg” ($50) is quite energetic, with ripe fruit, finesse and racy precision. 

Alsatian Gewürztraminer is another favorite of mine and can make a good pairing. I love the grapefruit and lychee fruit and warm spice, presented with an unctuous texture, as in the 2019 Trimbach Gewurztraminer d”Alsace ($34). These qualities enable it to deftly hold up to the variety of flavors and textures, sweet and savory. And it carries its higher alcohol (14.5%) with balance. Even more so, the 2017 Lucien Albrecht “Spiegel Grand Cru” ($35) delivers intense aromas and flavors with a luscious, lavish texture.

Now that we have dinner covered, what about an aperitif or something for dessert? Namely bubbly, known as Crémant d’Alsace, for both. Made using the Champagne Method with pinot noir or chardonnay (occasionally with pinot blanc, pinot gris or riesling). 

A good example is the Lucien Albrecht Brut Rose ($23). This 100 percent pinot noir offers crisp strawberry and raspberry with finesse and a creamy palate. The 2019 Domaine Christophe Mittnacht “Terres d’Etoiles” Extra Brut ($29) made with certified biodynamic pinot auxerrois, pinot blanc, riesling, pinot gris, and pinot noir, is elegant, and fresh with intriguing sherry notes. Each has a flavor profile and acidity structure that actually also would work well the meal. 

Zinfandel is a special grape. But it is underappreciated. It has the second largest production in California next to Cabernet Sauvignon. But is the fourth in sales. It’s time we do our part to move Zinfandel up on the list.

Characteristics include exuberance, bold, succulent red berries, peppery spice, anise, a wild quality, and moderate tannin, but almost always with significant alcohol. The wines in my tastings ranged from 14.5% to 15.9% alcohol. Most of the best wines are under $50 and there are countless excellent wines under $30. It can improve with age, is food friendly, and usually a fine value.

With numerous appellations featuring superior vineyard sources, Sonoma County arguably is the premier zinfandel producer. I have two fine examples from the Dry Creek Valley. Quivira’s 2019 Anderson Ranch ($50), from an organic vineyard located in the venerated Lytton Springs corridor, bursts with briar, blackberry, licorice, black pepper; its 2019 Black Boar ($55), an organic blend of Anderson Ranch and Wine Creek Ranch fruit, is impressively rich, zesty, concentrated, with luscious dark berries. Dutcher Crossing’s 2019 Maple Vineyard ($51) from dry farmed, head pruned vines in the Lytton Springs corridor, shows abundant red berries, caramel and richness. 

There are also fine Sonoma County values: 2021 Seghesio ($26) bright, bold, raspberry, savory, anise, cinnamon; 2021 Quivira Dry Creek Valley ($28); 2021 Head High ($28) lively, ripe, rich, cherry, spice.

Though Napa Valley is best known for world class Cabernet, surprisingly there is also fine Zinfandel. Like the 2021 Frank Family ($45) succulent red and black fruit, lightly spicy.

The Sierra Foothills is one of the oldest wine growing regions in California, with the first zinfandel grapes planted in California in the mid-1800s. A fine example is the 2019 Renwood Estate Grown Renwood Ranch ($25) rich blackberry, plum, tobacco, cinnamon, licorice, vanilla. And the Napa-based Rombauer 2020 California ($38), a blend of 77% Sierra Foothills with some Napa and Lake County fruit; full-bodied, fruit-forward, super ripe, vanilla, rich. 

East of Oakland, Contra Costa County is known for growing fine old vine zinfandel and Rhône varieties. The 2020 Cline Ancient Vines ($16) is a longtime favorite; bright, black and red berries, nutmeg, herbal, smooth. 

Lodi is synonymous with Zinfandel and accessibly priced wine. Two wines from Oak Ridge signify: 2020 OZV Old Vine ($15) OZV is a portfolio dedicated to old vine varieties sourced from Lodi growers; earthy, fresh, blueberry, licorice, smooth texture. And 2020 Moss Roxx Estate Grown Old Vine Reserve ($24) offers dense black raspberry, toast and spice.

In the heart of California’s Central Coast, Paso Robles sources high quality cabernet sauvignon, Rhône varieties and, yes, zinfandel. The 2020 Ancient Peaks Santa Margarita Ranch ($22) shows enticing, zesty, mixed berries, and savory pepper.

America has become serious about rosé. It’s now the third ranking producer and consumer. And its popularity is mostly for higher quality dry rosés. These wines are great with food as well as an aperitif. They are crisp and refreshing with flavors similar to red wine but drinking more like white wine. This column focuses on Italy and California with side trips to Austria, Spain and Chile.

Rosato, as it is known in Italy, is found up and down the peninsula and is produced from numerous native grape varieties. 

Veneto: 2022 Scaia ($15) rondinella, a traditional Valpolicella variety; raspberries, peach, tangy

Tuscany: 2022 Capezzana “Vin Ruspo” ($19) organic sangiovese, small amounts of cabernet sauvignon and canaiolo from Carmignano; tart, cherry pie

Marche: 2022 Garofoli “Kómaros” ($14) montepulciano; intense watermelon

Puglia: 2022 Li Veli “Torrerose” ($15) negroamaro, juicy cherry

2022 Li Veli Susumaniello “Askos” ($25) ancient grape; raspberry, spicy, herbal

Sicily: 2021 Sallier de La Tour “Madamarosè” ($21): syrah; fresh, lively rhubarb, savory 

California seems to have latched on to pinot noir as the grape of choice. Its rosés tend to the brisk acidity of sharper red fruits. Some also are labeled “Vin Gris”. The wines below are 100% pinot noir unless otherwise noted. 

Sonoma: 2022 Ram’s Gate ($40) Sonoma County; 51% pinot noir, 49% mourvèdre; fuller body, intense, spicy red berries

2021 Naidu ($30) Sonoma Coast; mostly estate fruit; crips strawberry, cherr

2022 Alma de Cattleya Sonoma County ($22) Russian River Valley and Carneros fruit; crisp, savory, strawberry, rhubarb, cranberry

2022 Sonoma-Cutrer ($25) Russian River Valley; tangy red berries, rhubarb, spice

2021 Sebastiani ($28) from the Sonoma side of Carneros; exuberant, strawberry, watermelon, touch of mint 

Napa: 2022 Frank Family “Leslie” ($50) from Napa side of Carneros; fresh, vibrant, cherry, peach, citrus

2022 Bouchaine “Vin Gris” ($29) from the Napa Valley side of Carneros; labeled Vin Gris of Pinot Noir; lively, strawberry, watermelon, nectarine

Santa Barbara: 2022 Fiddlehead Cellars “Pink Fiddle” ($32) from a small single vineyard in the western end of the Sta. Rita Hills; deep, succulent cherry, light spice 

2022 Alma Rosa “Vin Gris” ($38) from the El Jabali estate vineyard in Sta. Rita Hills; complex, elegant, mouthwatering, saline 

Austria: 2022 Triebaumer Reserve ($14) blaufränkisch – known as Lemberger in Germany; juicy, vibrant, peach, raspberry, strawberries, pear 

2022 Weingut Bründlmayer ($18) Zweigelt – most widely planted red grape in Austria – a crossing of blaufränkisch and St-Laurent; organic, strawberry, cherry, floral, yeasty, lively

Spain: 2022 Conde Valdemar ($18) 85% garnacha,15% viura from family-owned vineyards in Rioja; cherry, roses, red berries, smooth, fresh 

Argentina: 2020 Otronia “45 Rugientes” ($30) organic pinot noirfrom Patagonia, fermented with native yeasts; red fruit, pink pepper, flowers, persistent 

In recent years, I have observed more of my family and friends telling me that Sauvignon Blanc is one of their favorite wine. Although it originated in Bordeaux and the Loire Valley, it also has found hospitable surroundings in New Zealand, Chile, South Africa, and Australia. This column focuses on California.

The grape’s flavor profile comes in several styles, though it’s usually assertively aromatic, with refreshing acidity. Generally, expect brisk green citrus (lime, gooseberry) but also other citrus (grapefruit) and occasionally stone fruit and a distinctive (sometimes spicy) herbaceousness. Some also are evocative of fresh cut hay or grass. Wines made from riper fruit (usually the more expensive ones) often display melon, nectarine, peach, or even tropical fruits. 

NOTE: Wines are listed in order of preference within each category but all are recommended. 

I found a number of good values: they generally are ebullient, spry with a focus on varietal fruit but all display the grape’s trademark refreshing character. 

• 2022 Dry Creek Vineyard Sonoma County Fumé ($20) juicy, citrus, gooseberry
• 2022 Matanzas Creek Sonoma County ($25) tropical fruit, melon, spicy herb 
• 2022 Ancient Peaks Paso Robles ($18) juicy lemon-lime, sea salt, apple, ginger 
• 2021 The Paring California ($25) fresh, lively, lemon, melon, grassy, peach 
• 2022 Ferrari-Carano Fumé North Coast ($21) crisp citrus, tropical and stone fruit
• 2022 Markham Napa Valley ($24) fresh grapefruit, citrus zest, spice

For a few extra dollars, I found more complexity and intensity in the following wines. 

• 2022 Cliff Lede Napa Valley ($35) pear, peach, brisk citrus, oaky weighty
• 2021 Quivira Dry Creek Valley Fig Tree Vineyard ($30) fresh citrus, apricot, herbs 
• 2021 Chalk Hill “Chalk Hill Estate” ($38) vibrant citrus, caramel, lush
• 2022 Fiddlehead “La Pressa Vineyard” Santa Ynez Valley ($36) from old vines on a historic site in the Los Olivos District, racy grapefruit, gooseberry, ginger 
• 2022 Rombauer Sonoma /Napa ($28) bright grapefruit, melon, smooth
• 2022 Silverado Miller Ranch Yountville Estate ($30) lively citrus, oats, herbal

At higher prices, the wines tend to feature more use of different fermenting and aging vessels, along with practices such as lees stirring to build complexity and texture. These wines share a complex profile of bright, ripe fruit, and sophisticated, rich textures. As good as the above wines are, these are really special.

• 2021 Spottswoode ($45) Sonoma/Napa County blend, amazingly flavorful, refreshing, complex, hints of oak, herbaceous, citrus, peach, minerality 
• 2022 Chalk Hill “Windy Ridge” ($52) special clone, single block, very aromatic, grapefruit, tropical fruit, green apple, rich texture
• 2022 Gamble “Gamble Vineyard” Yountville ($45) crisp, complex, stone fruits, minerals
• 2021 Brandlin Estate Mt. Veeder ($45) citrus, stone fruits, oak, succulent
• 2022 Priest Ranch “Block 71” Napa Valley ($48) special selection, grapefruit, guava, licorice