The People's Palate with Rich Mauro

In the heart of California’s Central Coast – halfway between Los Angeles and San Francisco, lies the Paso Robles Wine Country, a land of rich heritage, rural beauty, and world-class wines. While Napa and Sonoma remain the most popular destinations, with more than 200 wineries, a quaint but lively hub in the town of Paso Robles, and numerous artisans throughout the region, Paso Robles should be on your radar for your next wine country visit.

Similarly, while most consumers think of Napa and Sonoma when they think of California Cabernet Sauvignon, they also should think of Paso Robles. Wineries including Adelaida, Booker, Daou, L’Aventure, and Linne Calodo consistently produce world class cabernet-based wines. There also are fine values, notably from J. Johr and Robert Hall.

Paso also has emerged as a leader in producing wines from Rhône varieties. Especially with acclaimed wineries including Tablas Creek, Saxum, Austin Hope and Vina Robles. In my tasting, the 2019 Absolution Grenache Colburn Vineyard ($41) showed concentrated red fruits complimented with herbal notes and minerality. The 2020 Paix Sur Terre “Days Between” Glenrose Vineyard ($45), 100% counoise, reflected the grape’s typically elegant and vibrant red berry and spices.

From creative blends to pioneering Rhône varieties to frizzante to sparkling wines, Paso cultivates an adventurous spirit. A 2017 Anarchy “Superfly” ($55) blends zinfandel (origin Croatia), cabernet sauvignon (origin southwestern France) and petite sirah (origin Rhône) for a bold, rich, juicy wine. A 2020 Groundwork Picpoul Carbonique ($18) was made using carbonic maceration (a common practice with Beaujolais) and extended skin contact (uncommon practice with white grapes often referred to as “orange wine”, resulting in a white wine that looks and drinks more like a rose). It was fruity and herbal with saline undertones and a touch of fizz. The 2020 Peachy Canyon Pét-Nat ($18), short for Pétillant Naturel, or naturally sparkling, this is a style of bubbly (fermented in the bottle to retain its fizz) that has been practiced for centuries but for some reason has recently become trendy. Made with grenache, it presents the bright red berries and fruity nature of the grape. 

Paso also offers fine values. Here, J. Lohr is a reliable source with a wide range of well-priced wines. I had a really good value in my tasting, the 2016 True Myth ($24). It is produced by the Niven Family Wine Estates based in Edna Valley in southern San Louis Obispo County. But the family recognized the wisdom of sourcing the grapes from Paso Robles. And the wine succeeds with rich blackberry, herbal notes, and smoky, dusty oak, finishing with elegant tannins. I also enjoyed the 2019 Broadside Margarita Vineyard Merlot ($18) in my tasting. It balances soft tannins with bright acidity and sweet berry fruit. And it is SIP (Sustainability in Practice) Certified, indicating the use of third-party approved sustainable farming and business practices. considering “people, planet and profit.” 

Paso Robles is a favorite destination for more than just the wines. It is one of my favorite wine regions to visit. In addition to world class restaurants, such as il Cortile and Thomas Hill Organics, there is an abundance of artisan producers worth sampling. For example, Bristols Cider House in nearby Atascadero. Their Black Bart sparkling cider in my tasting is 100% local apples, dry hopped with second fermentation in bottle. The Firestone Walker Brewery is one of the nation’s most awarded breweries. I found the Flyjack IPA, a hazy India Pale Ale, crisp, with only 96 calories impressive. And you can explore craft olive oil producers, like the Kiler Ridge and Pasolivo, to sample extra virgin olive oils and olive oil products. 

When it comes to consumer interest in white wines, all white grapes take a back seat to chardonnay; but sauvignon blanc enjoys an increasingly strong second place. California Sauvignon Blanc is a good barometer, especially since there arguably is more good California Sauvignon Blanc on the market than ever.

The grape has a noble heritage as a parent (with cabernet franc) of cabernet sauvignon. It is responsible for the Loire Valley wines of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé and, with semillon, the white Bordeaux of Graves and Sauternes. It also has found hospitable surroundings in New Zealand, South Africa, Australia, and Chile. 

Sauvignon Blanc is one of the world’s most widely planted grape varieties. It is responsible for famed French wines of Bordeaux and the Loire Valley and has found hospitable surroundings in Italy, New Zealand, South Africa, Australia, and Chile. 

Its flavor profile ranges from assertively aromatic and refreshing with brisk green citrus (lime, gooseberry) but also other citrus, especially grapefruit, and a distinctive herbaceousness (sometimes fresh cut hay or grass) to melon, tropical, nectarine, peach or stone fruits with anise or oak spice. 

Most of the wines are fermented and aged in stainless steel to emphasize fresh, varietal characteristics, while some use small amounts of mostly neutral oak to round out flavors and texture. 

In recent years, wineries have employed a wider variety of vessels, including concrete tanks, stainless steel barrels, and amphorae, for fermentation and aging, along with practices such as lees stirring to build complexity and texture.

There were two excellent everyday values from the Dry Creek Vineyard in my tasting. Both are focused on varietal character and the grape’s trademark racy acidity. The Sonoma County “Fumé” ($16) is aromatic, juicy with spicy herbs; the Dry Creek Valley ($20) emphasizes citrus, melon and licorice.  

As consumer friendly as these wines are, I found more complexity and flavor interest as prices escalated. Also, I was surprised when I reviewed my tasting notes that all but one of these is from Napa. They are listed in order of preference but all are recommended: 

• 2017 Ashes and Diamonds Blanc No. 3 ($45) blend of equal parts semillon and sauvignon blanc; lush mouthfeel, bright structure, only 11.9% alcohol
• 2020 Spottswoode ($42) Sonoma and Napa fruit; intense citrus, herbal spice, textural richness, balanced with vibrant structure 
• 2020 Gamble ($35) from an estate vineyard near Yountville, brisk, citrus, licorice, spice 
• 2019 Cliff Lede Napa Valley ($28) elegant, tangy citrus, pear, herbal 
• 2020 Duckhorn ($32) aromatic, focused citrus, tropical, herbal, elegant
• 2019 Acumen Mountainside ($30) Napa Valley winery but Dry Creek Valley grapes; bright citrus, succulent 
• 2019 Chalk Hill Estate ($33) from the Chalk Hill area in eastern Sonoma; rich honeydew, lemon, and tropical fruit 
• 2019 The Paring Santa Ynez Valley ($25) vibrant, gooseberry, lemongrass 
• 2020 Ladera Ryan’s Vineyard ($36) from Oak Knoll District of southern Napa, fresh hay citrus, melon, spicy
• 2020 Alma de Cattleya ($22) Sonoma fruit; spicy herb, juicy melon, citrus
• 2020 Cuvaison Méthode Béton ($40) deep citrus, graceful creaminess, refreshing melon, juicy lemon, persistent 
• 2019 Cuvaison En Cigare ($40) fermented and aged in cigar-shaped oak barrels; taut citrus, lemongrass, rich mouthfeel 

During summer’s warm months, cold white wines provide welcome tonic. Add the refreshing bubbles of sparkling wine and you have the ideal summer drink.

Champagne is the standard for sparkling wine. This is primarily because of the “Champagne Method” (méthode champenoise) of double fermentation in the bottle to create the bubbles. But Champagne is expensive. Happily, there are more affordable Champagne method (also described as the “classic method” or “traditional method”) wines that offer comparable quality. 

In France, there is crémant, bubbly from other regions. I particularly like Crémant d’Alsace. A region better known for amazing rieslings and gewurztraminers, its crémant more often uses the classic Champagne varieties – pinot noir and chardonnay – though pinot blanc, pinot gris and riesling may make it into some blends. 

But it is in the north of Italy where you can find truly exceptional Champagne alternatives. Italy uses the term “metodo classico”. For a country with countless indigenous varieties, these wines typically made with only chardonnay (occasionally pinot bianco) and pinot nero (pinot noir). Here I offer examples of Franciacorta (in Lombardia south of Lake Iseo about 60 miles east of Milano) and Trentodoc (in Trentino north of Lake Garda and about 140 miles northeast of Milano). Another fine source, Alta Langa (from Piemonte), was not represented in this tasting. 

Some would argue that Franciacorta is the best metodo classico. The zone benefits from warm days that ripen the fruit with cool nights that maintain freshness, thanks to the moderating influence of the lake. Mineral rich soils impart a zesty, forward character to the fruit resulting in a notable elegance.  

Others would argue the best Italian bubbly is Trentodoc located in the adjacent Trentino-Alto Adige appellation to the northeast, also devoted exclusively to metodo classico and the same Champagne grapes. With its high altitude vineyards near the Dolomite mountains, its higher elevations, diurnal temperature variations, and limestone soils typically yield crisp, bracing yet graceful wines.

Prosecco, that foamy, fruity northeastern Italian wine from the native glera grape, has vaulted in popularity in recent years. Produced in the area north of Venice around the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, it is the traditional base for the famous Bellini. 

In Spain, sparkling wine is all about Cava, another go-to for wallet-friendly bubbles. It is typically produced by the traditional method with the indigenous grapes macabeo, xarel-lo, and parellada in the Penedès region not far from Barcelona.

Crémant d’Alsace 

• Domaine Christophe Mittnacht “Terres d’étoiles” Extra Brut ($25) certified biodynamic, majority pinot auxerrois, with pinot blanc, riesling, pinot gris, pinot noir; elegant, intriguing saline and dry sherry notes
• Camille Braun Brut ($28) organically and biodynamically farmed, mostly pinot blanc with auxerrois; salty pear and grapefruit
• Jean-Baptiste Adam Brut Rosé ($25) 100 percent pinot noir, buttery brioche, strawberry, apple, brisk cherry, citrus 

Franciacorta

• 2015 Ca’ del Bosco Vintage Collection Dosage Zero ($80) bone-dry, impressively rich yet elegant and fresh, enticing baked bread, tangy yet creamy, ripe pear, apple and melon, mineral finish
• Villa Crespia “Brolese” Extra Brut Rosé ($40) from the Brolese sub-area; toasty, crisp citrus and cherry, elegant 
• Lo Sparviere “Satèn” ($25) Satèn is a style of lower pressure leading to softer bubbles; 100 percent chardonnay, fresh yet smoothly silky 

Trentodoc

• Casata Monfort Rosé ($40) vibrant apple, grapefruit, strawberry, toasty, creamy 
• 2015 Rotari Platinum Label Brut ($20) all chardonnay, lemon, grapefruit, fennel 

Prosecco 

• Zardetto Brut ($17) sourced from various vineyards northeast of the town of Conegliano; fruity citrus, apricot and tropical fruit accented with flowery notes

Cava

• Segura Viudas’ Reserva Heredad ($30) the producer’s crown jewel (thus a little more expensive than most Cava), blended from macabeo and parellada, a fine example of what extra attention like aging on the lees – in this case, added richness, but with elegance – can accomplish

It’s official, Rosé (that is, dry Rosé) has become extremely popular with American consumers. Rosé has experienced an amazing growth in sales in recent years. And quality mostly has grown, too, even as variety has increased. 

Still, as rosé’s success has led to a proliferation of pink wines on shop shelves, some now worry the result will be a decline in quality and slowing sales. Luckily, I didn’t see that in my tasting. I was impressed with the overall quality and consistency of the wines below. Note, all wines here are 2020 vintage, unless otherwise stated.

Rosé can be enjoyed as an apéritif or with the full range of foods. Because the flavor profile is similar to their red siblings, while they drink more like white wines, rosé pairs with many foods and may be enjoyed year-round. Rosé goes really well with food because it combines some of the fruit and tannin of a red with the acidity and vibrancy of a white wine. It’s a perfect pairing for shellfish, spicy Asian cuisines, pasta or a big lunch-salad. Some vintners love it with a juicy burger. 

Interestingly, most of the wines in my tasting were from pinot noir. California wineries seem to have latched on to pinot noir as the grape of choice for Rosé. This is likely because the grape typically produces lighter colored wines anyway and tends to reveal its primary aromas and flavors at earlier ripeness. The best wines are easy drinking, refreshing, yet flavorful. They exhibit bright, fruit ranging from strawberry, cherry, raspberry, and cranberry to rhubarb, pomegranate, and watermelon. 

Inman “Endless Crush®” Russian River Valley ($38) certified sustainable, estate grown, Olivet Grange Vineyard, pretty red cherry and fresh cranberry, tangy, mineral 

Pisoni “Lucy” Santa Lucia Highlands ($19) delicate, succulent mixed berries, supple, one dollar of each bottle sold is donated to breast cancer aid and research, fine value

Alma Rosa “Vin Gris” Santa Rita Hills ($35) estate grown from El Jabali Vineyard, structured, elegant and refreshing, tangy strawberry, peach, grapefruit

Alma de Cattleya Sonoma County ($22) Russian River Valley and Carneros grapes; specifically grown for rosé’s, strawberries raspberries, tangerine and pomegranate, brisk, modestly herbal 

Argyle “Grower Series” Willamette Valley ($30) with chardonnay and small amount of pinot meunier from estate Knudsen and Lone Star vineyards, crisp, creamy watermelon, red berry, mineral notes 

Diora “Le Belle Fête” Monterey ($20) San Bernabe estate, juicy red berries, spice 

Raeburn RRV ($20) with zinfandel and grenache, brisk rasberry, citrus

Grapes originating in Southern France – notably Côtes de Provence (grenache) and Rhône Valley (grenache, cinsault, syrah, mourvedre) – also are popular. They tend to make a rosé a bit richer, offering more intensity with a touch of spice. 

Alma Rosa Grenache Rosé ($30) sourced from El Jabali estate vineyard, brisk, cherry, strawberry, orange, peach, salty note 

Bonny Doon “Vin Gris de Cigare” Central Coast ($15), grenache with cinsaut, clairette blanc, grenache blanc, mourvedre, and vermentino; brisk strawberry, nectarine, lightly creamy, touch of spice, fine value 

Ram’s Gate Rosé Sonoma Coast ($38) grenache with pinot noir and syrah, tart red berries, citrus 

Finally, there are rosés produced with Bordeaux varieties, and the Acumen “Mountainside” Napa Valley ($30) is a fine example. It is 100 percent merlot from the estate Attelas Vineyard and offers bright cherry and strawberry with a slightly herbal accent in a nicely firm frame.

While Chardonnay is still the most popular American wine and Sauvignon Blanc is a solid second, many wine consumers are showing more interest in a diversity of flavor profiles from other grapes. Generally, you should find the wines in this column are bright, food-friendly and meant to be enjoyed at any time but especially with food. A surprisingly winning array of wines, even though mostly unfamiliar grape varieties

Let’s begin with chenin blanc, which originates from the Loire Valley where it makes fascinating, complex, luscious (dry or sweet), yet underappreciated wines. It also has been increasingly successful in South Africa. In California, it used to be produced in a fruity, slightly sweet style, though a few brave souls now make a dry style inspired by the fine wines of Savennieres. 

The 2019 Aperture ($30), sourced from a seventy-year-old, dry farmed Sonoma vineyard is barrel fermented, resulting in succulent apple, pear, peach and citrus fruit with an intriguing herbal note. 

The 2019 Chappellet “Molly Chappellet” ($38), with grapes from the winery’s Pritchard Hill estate, rewards with a concentrated complex of lively apple, tropical and stone fruits, and mineral notes. 

The 2020 Dry Creek Vineyard ($16), a fine value and a perennial favorite from Clarksburg in Lodi, is aromatic, with juicy apple, peach, pear and honey. 

Next, pinot blanc, a mutation of pinot noir, is more common in Alsace than Burgundy. It also is found in Austria (weissburgunder) and Germany (weissburgunder) and Northern Italy (pinot bianco). It tends to offer peach, pear, lime, melon and apple and present with have good weight. 

The 2019 Ram’s Gate Estate ($38) with sustainably grown Carneros grapes, is crisp, full-bodied, with green apple, pear and melon. A fine value, the organic 2020 Girasole Mendocino ($14) is lively, with luscious peach, citrus, and pear. It also is vegan.

Another mutation of pinot noir, pinot gris also is more prominent in Alsace than Burgundy. It produces good wines in Germany and Austria (where it is known as grauburgunder or ruländer), and, of course, Italy (where it is known as pinot grigio). It’s the leading white variety in Oregon (though chardonnay is gaining) and increasingly popular in California. Also, its name refers to the greyish color of its skin and generally is noted for stone fruit, melon, and citrus. 

The 2019 Balletto ($20), with estate-grown Russian River Valley grapes, offers delicious lemon, orange and apricot with baking spice.

I find the grapes of southern France, especially intriguing. Take grenache blanc. A mutation of the red grenache grape, it is widely grown there, although it originated in Spain. It produces fuller bodied wines with intense citrus and melon. 

The 2019 Priest Ranch “Schrader Ranch” ($22) with its juicy estate grown Napa Valley fruit also offering pear and stone fruit, with a steely quality. 

One of the lesser-known southern France grapes, though common in the Languedoc, picpoul is being given some interesting treatments in California. The 2020 Bonny Doon Beeswax Vineyard ($15), from the Arroyo Seco region in Monterey, sports high acidity with citrus, pear, peach and herbal notes.

And Rhône Valley varieties – generally, various combinations of viognier, roussanne, marsanne and grenache blanc – flowery lend themselves particularly well to blends. 

The 2019 Sosie “White Blend” Rossi Ranch ($35) combines organically grown roussanne, grenache blanc and marsanne with native yeast fermentation to yield appealing green apple, pear and lemon. 

The 2020 Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc + Viognier ($16) is a unique and innovative blend, Clarksburg chenin blanc supplies crispness and honey; Lodi viognier contributes intense apricot, apple and viscosity. Viognier once upon a time was quite rare but is now the most-planted white Rhône variety in the United States. It produces wines with intense aromatics of peach, apricot, apple, and floral notes, as well as viscosity and lushness. This wine successfully combines these two disparate grapes into a very good value.

The 2020 Bonny Doon “Le Cigare Blanc” ($15) blends 60% grenache blanc, with 32% vermentino and 8% clairette blanche from Central Coast vineyards for delicate yet flavorful of melon, peach, orange, and peach. 

Although it still has a reputation of being only a sweet wine, riesling – the iconic grape of Germany – regularly is fashioned into wines that delightfully balance residual sugar and bracing acidity. But more and more, dry or off-dry Riesling wine is taking its place at the table. The best wines are delightfully juicy, dramatic expressions of green apple, grapefruit or peach (and sometimes peach or apricot) with crispness, occasionally with steely, mineral components. 

The 2017 Smith Madrone Riesling Napa Valley ($34), from a dry-farmed estate vineyard on Spring Mountain, is an exemplary example with fruity flavors and a lively palate, with a slight stoniness. 

Finally, most dentified with northwest Spain and northern Portugal (where it is known as alvarinho), albariñocan make invigorating, floral and citrus-flecked wines. There also are some interesting, successful examples in California, notably in the Central Coast region. The sample in my tasting, an unoaked 2020 Mettler Albariño ($20) was vibrant, yet rounded, with succulent apricot, orange, apple and peach. Just delightful.

There is an incredible diversity of wine grape varieties grown in the Mediterranean countries offering a rich diversity of taste experiences. This column focuses on lesser known grapes in southern France, Spain and Portugal. Here are but a handful that deserve your attention. 

RHÔNE VALLEY 

While the Rhône Valley is best known for its amazing red wines, its white wines should not be overlooked. If you’ve been intrigued by American wines labeled Viognier or described as “Rhône-style”, check out the origins of these fascinating, even exotic wines. 

Of particular note are the Côtes-du-Rhône Crus of the Northern Rhône. A Cru is a specifically delineated geographic area around a village whose wines are noted for high quality and distinctiveness. 

Hermitage Blanc arguably is the most prestigious. The 2017 Barruol Lynch “La Pierrelle” ($99) is blended by importer Kermit Lynch in collaboration with Sarrual Barruol, a producer with an over 400 year history in the region. It is mostly marsanne with roussanne showing a complex of focused citrus, tropical and stone fruits with hazelnuts, an intriguing minerality and a honeyed, creamy palate. 

And the tiny appellation of Condrieu is the ancestral home of viognier, which has grown in popularity around the world in recent years. But nowhere will you find an expression of the grape with such freshness and tautness in balance with the naturally luxurious texture. And the 100 percent viognier 2018 E. Guigal ($65) is a fine example, dramatically aromatic and flavored with citrus and stone fruit while notes of ginger, honey, and minerality add complexity to the rich texture. 

Not as well-known as Hermitage or Condrieu, wines from nearby Saint-Péray, a white wine only appellation, can be nearly as impressive, particularly in the hands of a top producer such as Domaine A. Clape, a family with 250 years as growers in southern France. Also mostly marsanne with roussanne, this wine(2019, $78)  is graceful and elegant, with pure citrus and stone fruit accented with spice and licorice. 

In the Southern Rhône, the quality of the Lirac Côtes du Rhône Cru (an appellation in proximity to Châteauneuf-du-Pape) is reflected in the 2019 Domaine de la Mordorée “La Reine des Bois” ($36). From a producer known for organic and biodynamic farming, it is made up of equal parts grenache blanc, viognier, and roussane, it is attractively floral and fruity, suggesting citrus and stone fruit with stony notes and a creamy texture. 

Also in the Southern Rhône, the village of Beaumes-de-Venise sources the 2016 Domaine de Durban “Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise” ($27). Produced only from muscat blanc à petits grains grapes, and fortified with neutral spirits like Port, it is designated “vin doux naturel” (naturally sweet wine). At 15% alcohol, it defines freshness and finesse with concentration.

While a simple Côtes-du-Rhône label indicates a good value entry level wine, Côtes-du-Rhône Villages means the wine comes from one of twenty-one specifically designated villages known for higher quality. And the 2018 Domaine Pélaquié “Laudun” ($17) is a named Côtes-du-Rhône Villages Cru made with viognier, grenache blanc, clairette, roussane, marsanne, and bourboulenc. From a certified sustainable, family-run estate (since the 16th century), it is a fine value showing ripe fruit, medium body and a rounded palate.

Spain and Portugal have long been reliable sources of fine value wines. With many indigenous grapes, the variety of tastes and styles only adds to their appeal. For proof, check out the white wines below. 

PORTUGAL 

Northern Portugal’s Vinho Verde (Green Wine) is notable for distinctively light, refreshing, low alcohol wines. Alvarinho is the predominant variety, though other native grapes are used. The wines below are fresh and fruity, brisk (sometimes even spritzy) (including arinto and loureiro) yet harmonious. Wonderful for casual drinking, versatile with food and generally best enjoyed young. 

• 2019 Campelo ($10) a good introduction, crisp citrus, apple and orange with a tingle on the tongue and hint of sweetness 
• 2020 Quinta da Lixa “Aromas das Castas” Grande Escolha ($10) even better with lively, tangy orange and apple with a touch of earth
• 2020 Esporão “Bico Amarelo” ($12) fine fresh, elegant apple, lime, honey and herb
• 2020 Quinta da Raza Grande Escolha ($17) another step up for its fresh, focused citrus, pear and minerals
• 2020 Esporao “Quinta do Ameal” ($17) excellent, from loureiro grapes with vibrant pear, mineral, and hints at richness
• 2017 Quinta do Louridal “Poema” Riserva ($18) a rare example of an aged Vinho Verde; displays some complexity with ripe pear and honey in a fairly full frame

Cockburn’s Porto Branco “Fine White Port” ($15) is fortified like red Port. At 19 percent alcohol, it offers hints of almond, lemon, pear, caramel, and vanilla. It is sweet, full-bodied with a creamy texture palate, and is delightful chilled as an aperitif or in cocktails. 

SPAIN 

Another fortified wine worth exploring is Spanish Sherry. Predominantly made from native palomino grapes and best drunk cold, Sherry comes in several styles. 

The most food friendly is “fino,” the lightest, driest (as it is fermented and aged under protective layer of yeast – called “flor” – that forms on top of the wine) and lowest alcohol (usually 15 percent). A special kind of fino called “manzanilla” is made only around the coastal town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda where producers such as Emilio Lustau produce especially delicate, expressive wines from native palomino grapes such as Lustau’s “Papirusa” ($18) with citrus, almond, mineral and saline reminiscent of sea breeze. 

At the other end of the spectrum, the Valdespino “El Candado” ($26) is a rare, sweet, rich dessert wine. With 100% Pedro Ximenez grapes aged for 10 to 12 years and 17 percent alcohol, its syrupy texture is nicely balanced with lively acidity and flavors of molasses, black walnut, raisins, dates and caramel. Drink as dessert or even better, over vanilla ice cream. 

Williams & Humbert “Dos Cortados” Solera Especial 20 Anos Rare Old Dry ($50) is an even rarer style, a Palo Cortado that begins life as a fino but evolves more pungent, intense and complex aromas and a richer, more concentrated palate. At 21.5% alcohol, it displays nuts, dried fruits, citrus, ginger, caramel, with lively acidity, yet creamy finesse. 

Beyond Sherry, Spanish white wines usually don’t get anywhere near the respect of Spanish red wines. But wines from albariño in the Rias Baixas area of Galicia and verdejo from the Castilla y Leon region in central Spain deserve consumer attention. While I didn’t have any such wines in my tastings, I did have one impressive wine from godello, a very rare grape now enjoying a revival of interest.

Though at a high price point, the 2018 Alvaredos-Hobbs Godello ($50) is emblematic. This is a new venture by Sonoma-based winemaker Paul Hobbs (who has similar partnerships around the world, this time with Antonio Lopez, a sixth-generation Spanish vintner) focused on production of native varieties planted in the Ribeira Sacra region in Galicia in northwestern Spain. From this rare but interesting grape, the wine is impressive and expressive of honeyed peach, citrus, and ginger, with floral notes, and hints of white pepper. It drinks with finesse and bright acidity. 

Recently, Rosé has found wide acceptance with the American consumer. Wine industry publications report double-digit growth in the category and even triple digit growth in some price ranges. And what better time to join the parade than during the heat of summer?

I’m glad to see this popularity focused on dry (or off-dry) wines modeled after European styles, not the heavily marketed, sweet “blush” wines that have been popular for years. A variety of red grapes are used and the best wines are easy drinking, refreshing, yet flavorful. Expect a flavor profile similar to their red siblings, while they drink more like white wines. Anticipate a profile with a range of bright red and citrus fruits (strawberry, cherry, raspberry, and cranberry to rhubarb, pomegranate, and watermelon).

Because of their vibrant freshness and lively fruit, pink wines are almost always best drunk young, so look for the most recent vintages available. Note, all wines here are 2020 vintage, unless otherwise stated.

Among Rosé devotees, France is a prime source and southern France even more so. Rosé from Côtes de Provence (made mostly from grenache) is especially popular. My recommended wines generally exhibited delicate, fresh red berries, crisp citrus fruits, juicy freshness, and a suggestion of creaminess. 

Domaines Ott, whose vineyards overlook the Mediterranean, is a Rosé specialist with a 125-year history. Its Clos Mireille ($58) single vineyard wine is farmed specifically for Rosé and includes cinsault, syrah and the white grape rolle (AKA vermentino). It  justifies its price with tangy fruit, citrus, mineral, saline, and solid, though elegant body. The winery’s By.OTT ($26) is a blend from estate and local vineyards showing delicate peach, melon, and light spice. 

Domaine Cala, owned by Los Angeles Chef Joachim Splichal, has produced a savory Coteaux Varois en Provence ($18) with tart red currant, peach, stone, and spice. 

Spain gets into the act with an entry from the influential Torres family, with a viticultural history in Penedes (the most important wine growing region in Catalunya, near Barcelona). The Sangre de Toro ($15) is a mainly a blend of garnacha and cariñena, showing delicate, fresh raspberry and red currant. From Portugal, Herdade de São Miguel’s Colheita Seleccionada ($15) blends touriga nacional, aragonez, and syrah from the Alentejo region in southern Portugal, for a nice tart cherry-strawberry mix.

Most of the Rosés in my tasting were from Italy (where it typically is labeled Rosato). 

From the Veneto, the Tenuta Sant’Antonio winery (a well-known maker of Valpolicella and Soave) also produces fresh, focused wines from local and international varieties under the Scaia label. The Scaia Rosato ($13), from the native rondinella, is lively and juicy, fresh and focused. 

From the Marche, the 150 year-old Garofoli farms montepulciano specifically to make Kómaros ($14), a crisp Rosato with citrus, mineral and a hint of sweetness.  

Masseria Li Veli in Puglia is notable for its work to restore historic properties, emphasize local varieties and practice sustainable farming. Its “Primerose” ($13), made from negroamaro, is brisk, with strawberry, raspberry, and spice, and a fine value. I especially enjoyed the fresh, juicy, creamy Susumaniello ($21). This is an ancient indigenous Puglian variety among several that has been resurrected through the “ASKOS” project.

From Sicily, Poggio Anima’s “Raphael” ($15) blends the ancient, rare zibibbo (AKA the aromatic grape muscat of Alexandria) with syrah from two vineyards overlooking the sea. It’s firm and herb-tinged with red berries and tangerine. From Planeta, a family that has farmed in Sicily for five centuries, the nero d’avola and syrah of its Rosé ($19) presents spicy red berries and citrus.

Let me close with a special outlier: Germany’s Villa Wolf Pinot Noir ($14) with its bright cherry, fresh raspberry, and mineral notes. This estate in the lesser-known Pfalz region dates to 1756 and now is managed by the Mosel’s esteemed Dr. Loosen. 

Italy has long been THE wine peninsula and known as one of the world’s great wine producers. Recently, the island of Sicily has emerged from the mainland’s shadow with high quality wines from indigenous grapes.  Producers like Corvo and Tasca d’Almerita have begun reacquainting themselves (and us) with the variety and quality of island wine. 

Here I offer an opportunity for you to discover some of the wide range of unique representations, both white and red. First, the white grapes, starting with grillo. A major component of Marsala, its wines feature delicate citrus, apple, tropical fruit, and refreshing acidity. 

Tasca d’Almerita has been instrumental in bringing Sicilian wine to the forefront of the world’s oenological stage. With five estates across mainland Sicily and the neighboring islands, the family offers a glimpse into the possibilities and diversity of Sicilan wine. A leader in sustainable winegrowing, the Tasca d’Almerita estates are renowned for their commitment to the SOStain methodology. 

In a collaboration with the Whitaker Foundation, owners of the small island on Mozia off the west coast of Sicily, the Tasca family has restored a historic grillo vineyard, sharing the island with a museum and archeological dig of a Carthaginian-Phoenecian settlement dating back to 800 BCE. The unfiltered 2019 “Mozia” Sicilia DOC ($22), reflects freshness from fermentation in stainless steel and richness from aging on the lees. The “Sicilia DOC” designation, by the way, is a good indicator of quality. DOC roughly translates to “controlled denomination of origin” and guarantees level of quality and authenticity.

Featuring organically grown grapes from Di Giovana family’s estate vineyards, the vegan friendly 2020 “Vurria” Sicilia DOC ($20) benefits from similar treatment in stainless and with the lees, enhancing its notes of citrus, tropical fruit, and savory freshness. 

From the widely distributed Corvo winery, dating to 1824 and long a go-to for affordable Italian wine, comes two good examples. Under the Irmàna label is a hand-harvested wine (2019, $13) that offers bright, crisp citrus, tropical and stone fruit with herbal qualities and a soft texture. The 2020 Corvo Grillo ($10) is ideal for everyday sipping. 

Malvasia is a grape most often vinified sweet but Tenuta Capofaro, founded by the Tasca family on the island of Salina, presents the delightfully dry 2019 “Didyme” Salina IGT ($26), aged four months on the lees in stainless steel nicely revealing the grape’s signature floral peach and apricot, finishing with hints of salinity. “Salina IGT” indicates a wine typical of the Aeolian Islands, the volcanic archipelago just off Sicily’s northeast coast. IGT indicates a wine typical of the geography.

Carricante, having grown around Mount Etna (Europe’s tallest active volcano) since ancient times, is possibly the most interesting of Sicily’s white grapes. It is notable for brisk citrus, floral and herbaceous characteristics. From the Tasca family’s Tenuta Tascante, on the northern side of Mount Etna, the 2019 “Buonora” Etna Bianco DOC ($21) is fermented and aged in stainless steel. It is quite refreshing but with savory herbal notes and a distinctive salty element. “Etna Bianco DOC” indicates a wine of quality from the territory near the Mount Etna volcano.

On to the reds, where nero d’Avola is the island’s most recognizable and widely planted red grape. It is often made fresh, juicy, and red-fruited, with red berries and plum. Mandrarossa “Cartagho” Sicilia DOC (2017, $26) from Cantine Settisoli is a selection of grapes from top vineyards vinified in a more complex style. It delivers darker fruits, notable tobacco, and fine tannins. 

I also find nerello mascalese, the red variety arguably most suited to the volcanic slopes of Mount Etna, enticing, especially for its fresh, cherry and strawberry fruit, and herbaceous, minerally nuances. Imagine the acidity of sangiovese and the fruit of pinot noir. The 2017 Tenuta Tascante “Ghiaia Nera Rosso” Etna DOC ($21) is firm but with elegant tannins and a whiff of spice

Frappato is a new grape to me. It tends to be exuberantly fruity, floral and light, an ideal casual sipping wine or to drink with charcuterie. It is sometimes blended with nero d’Avola to deepen its character. A good example comes from Irmàna, the hand-harvested portfolio of the large Corvo Winery (2019 $13). If you like Beaujolais, you should like this. 

The island of Sardinia (or Sardegna in Italian) also deserves attention. About 280 miles west of Rome across the Tyrrhenean Sea, it is home to a wide variety of native grapes, though vermentino is the signature white grape and cannonau, the local name for grenache, is the key red grape. Carignano also is significant, though not represented here. 

Vermentino has been grown for centuries in Sardinia, most notably in the Gallura district. Fine examples also are found in the northwestern provinces of Italy, like Tuscany. Typically, there are two styles: soft but refreshing acidity or fairly full-bodied; some are even slightly spritzy. The taste shows a hint of the salty sea – saline minerality – and notes of lemon, and white flowers.

Established in the Surrau Valley of Gallura in 2004 by a family that has practiced viticulture in the area for generations, Vigne Surrau is an exemplary producer of Vermentino di Gallura. Their 2020 Limizzani ($16), referring to a mystical site in the region that ancient Mediterranean civilizations inhabited thousands of years ago, is a delightful blend of fruit from estate vineyards that was fermented and aged in stainless steel and shows some weight and chalky hints. The 2019 Sciala ($27), an Arabic word that refers to a generous and abundant harvest, is a careful selection of the estate’s finest fruit. And that describes the wine’s passion fruit and sherry-like qualities. This wine sees brief skin and must contact and is fermented and aged in stainless steel with lees contact. 

In addition to Vermentino, Surrau produces a distinctive selection of estate red wines from the cannonau grape, as well as several other indigenous red varieties. Cannonau likely originated in Sardinia and is even more widely planted than vermentino. Its wine generally has a low acidity level and high alcohol content. The flavors can range from fruity to rich, with spicy earthiness and are well structured. The 2019 Naracu ($16), referring to ancient stone structures built in a cone shape (also known as nuraghe) on the island, is fermented and aged in stainless steel to create an open and fresh expression. The 2019 Surrau Rosso ($27), carrying the Isola dei Nuraghi designation, was the first wine produced at Vigne Surrau from the first vineyards planted in the Surrau Valley. A blend of 60 percent carignano, 30 percent cannonau and 10 percent muristellu (bovale sardo), this wine (aged for nine months in a mixture of large casks, stainless steel tanks and cement vats) is more structured and spicier. 

NOTE: Featured image courtesy of Tenuta Whitaker

I once attended a seminar by legendary Italian wine writer Victor Hazan when he confidently announced, “The color of wine is red!” While Italy is best known for its reds, there are numerous distinctive whites, primarily from indigenous grape varieties.

Think you know Pinot Grigio? You don’t know Pinot Grigio until you’ve drunk Italian Pinot Grigio. If you are used to American Pinot Grigio, recalibrate your expectations. When tasting these wines, I kept thinking of words like brisk, tangy, crisp, tart, Bracing, and fresh. And they’re perfect for summer sipping.

Particularly from Alto Adige in the northeast with wines like the 2019 Kaltern ($23) – full flavored apple, white peach and almond. And the 2018 Elena Walch Vigna Castel Ringberg ($27). This one’s for people who don’t think they like Pinot Grigio – citrus, apple, pear, stone fruit, melon, mineral hints of spice, good structure. 

In the far northeastern most corner, the Friuli Venezia Giulia region is home to Marco Felluga whose “Mongris” (2019, $20), from the Collio subregion, fills the mouth with peach, melon and stone fruit accented with spicy herbs. Finally, repected producer Alois Lageder also offers the value priced 2019 Cantina Riff ($11) – citrus, fresh cut grass, pear, and apple.

Also from Collio subregion, the 2018 Russiz Superiore Sauvignon ($29), from a sibling estate to Marco Felluga, is a Sauvignon Blanc inspiring for its crisp lemon, peach and melon. Packed with flavor, it still drinks with finesse.

Back to Alto Adige, I continue to be impressed with Gewürztraminer wines from the grape’s geographic origin. The 2018 Elena Walch Vigna Kastelaz ($39) is traditionally off-dry and drinks with orange and enticing viscosity. Its cool climate source enables the wine to develop dramatic aromas of lychee, anise, rose, and spice. 

Further west, while Piemonte’s red wines get most of the attention, its native white wines should not be overlooked. Especially arneis, an ancient variety from the Roero subregion, which over the last fifty years has been revived mostly thanks to Vietti winery whose 2019 ($24) shows fruit salad, with herbal notes and a juicy finish. And, though not quite as old, cortese is produces an equally distinctive wine. La Scolca’s 2019 Gavi dei Gavi ($45), an estate grown cortese from near the town of Gavi, opens with nutty lime, peach and citrus notes and drinks brisk and tangy. 

Finally, Abruzzo in east-central Italy also is focused on local grapes, such as pecorino (the grape, not the cheese). Another old variety once thought to be extinct that has been resurrected in recent decades, its wines typically are invigorating and forward with higher alcohol, but still delicate and balanced. The 2019 La Valentina Pecorino ($17) adds complexity from organically farmed estate vineyards and a luscious palate from slightly higher alcohol, balanced with pleasant nutty citrus. 

NOTE: Featured Image courtesy Alto Adige Wine/Benjamin Pfitscher