The People's Palate with Rich Mauro

There is a cornucopia of budget friendly, Italian white wines – small production, regional, native varieties – that are ideal for warm weather drinking. If there is a common thread along the peninsula, these all offer dramatic aromas and crisp, refreshing character. 

Pinot Grigio. If you are used to American Pinot Grigio, recalibrate your expectations. These northern Italian wines, show more weight, tangy pear, apple, peach, and hints of mineral: 2025 Riff ($13) from Alois Lageder, organically farmed from Tre Venezie in the Veneto. From Friuli Venezia Giulia, specifically Collio microclimate: 2024 Attems ($17) from Tuscany’s Marchesi Frescobaldi and 2022 Borgo Conventi ($22) from the owners of Villa Sandi impress with layered and textural profiles.

Sauvignon Blanc. Sometimes simply labeled Sauvignon, in northern Italy it leans to crisp, green apple, citrus, and subtle herbaceousness, celebrated for its aromatic complexity, vibrant acidity, and elegant minerality: 2025 San Leonardo “Vette” ($25) from one of Italy’s most prestigious and historic (300 years) family-owned wine estates, and the savory 2024 Borgo Conventi ($22). 

Vermentino. Grown mostly in Sardinia, Liguria and the western coast of Tuscany; think crisp, citrus, apple, suggestions of sea air: 2024 Aia Vecchia ($16) from the Bolgheri subregion; 2024 Massovivo ($22) from the Frescobaldi estate Tenuta Ammiraglia; Riva de la Rosa ($13) imported by California’s Riboli Family Wines.

Verdicchio. The signature white grape of the Marche region typically features delightfully brisk citrus, melon, and stone fruit. From the region’s oldest family-owned winery, Garofoli (1901): the complex, savory, elegant 2025 “Macrina” Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore ($20) and the fresh, fragrant, mineral 2025 “Aelya” Matelica ($21). 

Pecorino. In Abruzzo, the ancient local grape pecorino, thought to be extinct but recently resurrected, produces typically invigorating, fuller, but still delicate and balanced wines: 2024 Poggio Salaia “Torre Sambra” ($19) from an estate first cultivated in 1910; organic, vegan friendly.

Carricante. This white variety grows on the northern slopes of the Mt. Etna volcano in Sicily where the late-ripening berries develop a range of fruit, mineral and savory flavors: 2025 Tenuta Tascante Buonora ($32) from the Tasca family that has been farming grapes in Sicily for more than 150 years and is now a leader in Etna viticulture.

Inzolia. One of the most traditional white grapes of Sicily, often used in Marsala production, it also shines as a dry varietal wine. The precise, aromatic 2024 Sallier de La Tour ($17) from a  historic estate (1909) now is managed by the Tasca d’Almerita family. 

As “Father’s Day approaches, you might be thinking of giving dad a wine gift. While it may seem a bit of a stereotype that men prefer red wine, there is evidence this is true. So, here are some recommendations for your wine loving dad.

Cabernet Sauvignon continues to be the most popular. But instead of defaulting to Napa Valley, I suggest Paso Robles. Specifically, these from DAOU. Soul of a Lion (2023, $150), is produced from the estate in the prized Adelaida District, as a tribute to the DAOU founder’s father, in a lavish style that offers sweet berry fruit coated with vanilla oak and delivered with a lush mouthfeel.

Two DAOU Reserves combine fruit from the estate and select Paso Robles AVAs: 2022 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($60) blackberry, raspberry, plum, accented by licorice, thyme, vanilla, cocoa, cedar, rounded tannins; and 2022 Seventeen Forty ($80), a Bordeaux-inspired blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, and petit verdot, displays sweet dark berries and plum, coffee, vanilla, sage, mocha, and refined tannins.

After years in the shadows, Syrah is having a moment, emerging as a compelling option for red wine lovers. These first two are rich and powerful expressions shaped by terroir, climate and skillful winemaking. 

The 2022 Arkenstone Estate ($195) is organically grown on hillside slopes of Napa Valley’s Howell Mountain. It impresses with enveloping dark berry, plum, cocoa, olives, cured meat, and earth; a full-bodied, dynamic mouthfeel, polished tannins, and savory, peppery finish. The 2021 Bouchaine Estate ($125), from Napa’s cool-climate Carneros, opens with dense blackberry, black cherry, black pepper with hints of bacon, and licorice, but with nuance from aging in oak and on the lees. 

Santa Barbara also produces fine Syrah. A good of example is the 2023 Demetria Estate North Slope ($55). Family-owned in the Santa Ynez Valley, the hillside estate vineyard benefits from regenerative, biodynamic farming. A nod to the traditional Côte-Rôtie in the Northern Rhône, as it is supplemented with 5% viognier, it is vibrant, fresh with raspberry, chocolate, black pepper and an elegant palate.

Washington State has established itself as a Syrah leader. The 2022 Spring Valley “Nina Lee” ($65) is from a property in Walla Walla with an agricultural history dating to the mid-1850s and its first vintage in 1993. It impresses with bright cherry, hint of tobacco, strong structure and a pleasing mineral note.

While consumer white wine continues to be Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc enjoys an increasingly strong second place. It is one of the world’s most widely planted grape varieties, originating in Bordeaux and the Loire Valley, also notable in New Zealand, Chile, South Africa, and Australia. 

The grape’s flavor profile comes in several styles, though it’s usually assertively aromatic, with refreshing acidity. Generally, expect brisk green citrus but also other citrus (grapefruit) and occasionally stone fruit and a distinctive (sometimes spicy) herbaceousness. Riper wines fruit often display melon, nectarine, peach, or even tropical fruits. 

NOTE: These California wines are listed in order of preference within each category but all are recommended. 

There are many good values. These tend to be ebullient and spry with the focus on varietal fruit but all display the grape’s trademark character. Most of the wines are fermented and aged in stainless steel to emphasize freshness, while some use various amounts of mostly neutral oak to round out flavors and texture. 

• 2024 Rodney Strong Alexander Valley ($25) some time with oak and yeast compliment vibrant peach, tropical fruit, almond
• 2024 Matanzas Creek Sonoma County ($25) crisp, grapefruit, fresh herb
• 2023 Markham Napa Valley ($24) fresh grapefruit, lemon, tangy, stony note 
• 2024 Charles Krug Napa Valley ($23) zesty citrus, melon, lemongrass
• 2024 Brassfield High Valley ($22) pleasant lemon, grapefruit, tropical fruit
• 2024 Cuvaison Carneros ($28) estate fruit; juicy tropical fruit, spicy herb 

As consumer friendly as those wines are, for a few extra dollars, I found more complexity, intensity and flavor interest as prices escalated. 

• 2024 Brandlin Estate Mt. Veeder ($50) richness, complexity from mountain grown fruit; fermentation and aging in large oak barrels gives texture and depth; juicy tropical flavors, mineral notes
• 2022 Cliff Lede Napa Valley ($38) richness from semillon, intensity and aromatics from old vine musqué clone of sauvignon blanc; unctuousness from barrel fermentation and aging 
• 2024 Beaulieu Vineyard Napa Valley ($40) first sauvignon blanc from famous cabernet sauvignon producer; some time with oak and yeast add complexity and rich texture; lively lemon, peach, toast, almond
• 2024 Freemark Abbey ($35) refreshing citrus, stone fruit, bright yet polished
• 2024 Priest Ranch “Block 71” Napa Valley ($38) peach, melon, tropical fruit, mineral
• 2021 Duckhorn North Coast ($32) with semillon; bright citrus, tropical fruits 
• 2023 Whitehall Lane Napa Valley ($30) some time with oak and yeast add complexity and rich texture to its crisp citrus, pear, fig, tropical, biscuit

Cabernet Sauvignon from California (especially Napa Valley) wasn’t always the most popular red wine in America. Having established its pedigree centuries ago as a foundation of Bordeaux, the grape began to be planted in Napa Valley in the late 1800’s. Following Prohibition, the quality of Napa Cabernet gained increased attention. Then, in 1976, a Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Cabernet placed first at the “Judgement of Paris” and other Napa Cabs showed well. The prestige of Napa Cabernet has only grown since.

But over time a trend evolved of overripe and over oaked wines, borderline sweet, with excessive weight, power and softness that mask terroir. The recommended wines below, listed in order of my preference, show harmony, balance, intensity with subtlety, nuances of mineral and earth, oak as a complement, and solid structure.

2022 Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour Private Reserve ($180) celebrated estate founded in 1900 came to international fame after renowned winemaker André Tchelistcheff joined in 1938; herbaceous, earthy accents, enticing red fruits and cedar 

2021 Turnbull Oakville Reserve ($110) all estate winery; exceptional blend of select lots; impresses with mixed dark berries, loamy earth, fresh, velvety, powdery tannins, broad palate 

2022 Chappellet Signature ($95) at the peak of Pritchard Hill, one of Napa’s finest wineries produces benchmark mountain grown wines; concentrated, abundant berry elements, cedar, cocoa, graphite, tobacco, oak spice, silky texture 

2022 Revana Napa Valley ($125) Cabernet specialist; sourced from specially selected 

estate vineyards; rich dark currant, tobacco, loamy soil, cocoa, texture shows a sense of airiness 

2021 Freemark Abbey Napa Valley ($75) second Napa winery founded by a woman (1886); impressed at the Judgement of Paris; sourced from specially selected sites; dark fruits, cedar, oak spice, leather, well structured, rich texture 

2021 Silver Oak Napa Valley ($165) founded in 1972 by Coloradan Ray Duncan and Christian Brothers winemaker Justin Meyer; deep, slightly sweet berries, licorice, aging in American oak adds signature coconut, supple texture

2022 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Artemis ($75) grapes from select Napa vineyards combined with estate-grown fruit; pretty cherry, elegant structure, some richness 

 2022 Sullivan Coeur de Vigne ($95) property dates to 1821 but winery was established in 1972 with planting guided by Andre Tchelistcheff; concentrated cherry, sage, plum, cassis, tobacco, cedar, velvety mouthfeel 

2022 Stags’ Leap Winery ($65) grapes were first planted here in 1873; 100 years later the modern winery began production; lively, black and red berries, fresh powdery tannin

Despite its generally recognized wine characteristics of butter, vanilla, rich texture, citrus, apple, tropical fruit, etc., the chardonnay grape presents essentially a blank slate for producers. Sometimes this unfortunately means winemakers are tempted to imprint their own personality or react to perceived consumer preferences. But with the wines below winemakers attempt to express the source and the personality of the grape. 

Anderson Valley

2023 Dutcher Crossing Ferrington ($49) highly regarded vineyard; tart apple, pear, citrus, light oak, balancing acidity

2023 Kendall-Jackson Sable Mountain ($50) high elevation vineyard; delicate stone and tropical fruit, vanilla, Asian spice, rounded finish

Sonoma Coast

2022 Sonoma-Cutrer Les Pierres ($46) premium selection from rocky estate vineyard; ripe pear, apple, roasted hazelnut, rich, butter pastry 

Russian River Valley

2023 Davis Bynum River West Vineyard ($30) vineyard in the Middle Reach of the valley; bracing citrus, peach and tangerine, spicy accent 

2023 J Vineyards ($40) sourced from top vineyards throughout the appellation; zesty lemon, pear, pineapple, hint of ginger, supple finish 

Carneros

2023 Cuvaison Kite Tail ($70) special old vine lot from estate Tai vineyard; brilliant citrus, peach, toasty vanilla, creamy mouthfeel

2024 Frank Family ($40) blend of winery’s Lewis Vineyard, famed Winery Lake, Beckstoffer, and Sangiacomo fruit; beautiful zesty lemon, tropical fruit, hints of vanilla, brioche

2023 Bouchaine Estate ($40) blend of the estate’s best blocks; noticeable creamy oak, fresh apple, juicy grapefruit, light toast 

2023 Bouchaine Unoaked ($40) old vine estate fruit fermented and aged without wood barrels, secondary fermentation or lees stirring; apple, lemon, pear leap from the glass 

Central Coast

2023 Bernardus ($30) from select vineyards throughout Monterey County; broad spicy, apple, pear, citrus pastry 

2023 Daou Reserve Willow Creek District ($52) cool, maritime influenced region home to some of Paso Robles finest wineries; ripe, lemon, honeysuckle, vanilla, rich texture

2022 Talley Rosemary’s Vineyard ($70) estate vineyard in Arroyo Grande Valley bordering the Pacific; vibrant, intense citrus, stone fruit, salty ocean note, creamy, spectacular 

2023 Kendal-Jackson Camelot Highlands ($50) high elevation vineyard with 40 year old vines in the Santa Maria Valley; juicy citrus, peach, nice touch of toasty oak

2023 The Hilt Estate Sta. Rita Hills ($50) Pacific Ocean influenced climate and soils; sea spray, exciting lime, apricot, seashells, broad palate, creamy rich

2023 Alma Rosa Sta. Rita Hills ($38) El Jabali estate vineyard; oceanic minerality, precise, honeyed citrus, pear, supple, seamless 

2024 Diatom Santa Barbara County ($25) no oak, pure citrus, melon and stone fruit, saline note, herbal tone, supple, fantastic value 

Over the years, Pinot Noir in California has had its ups and downs. But these days, you can find outstanding wines in just about every region the length of the state. Seek out as many the wines below as you can find. 

Anderson Valley 

Nestled amidst the rugged alluvial ridges and towering redwoods of coastal Mendocino County, the far-flung Anderson Valley is celebrated for producing cool-climate wines of outstanding quality. 

2022 Goldeneye Gowan Creek ($90) estate vineyard part of the Duckhorn portfolio; focused, juicy dark berries licorice, toasty oak 

2023 Kendall Jackson Outland Ridge ($60) high eastern ridge vineyard; lavish dark berries, tea, mushrooms, allspice

Russian River Valley

Fog and breezes from the Pacific Ocean and the river are moderated by a bit more sun, encouraging wines with bright red fruit capable of balancing fruit intensity with supple structure. The wines produced 

2021 Ram’s Gate Bush Crispo Vineyard ($80) vineyard located in the acclaimed Olivet Lane district; dense red fruit, tea, spicy, robust impact but elegant structure

2020 B. Wise Silver Eagle Vineyard ($75) limited release from a vineyard located on a plateau separating the Russian River Valley from the Sonoma Coast; raspberry, plum, wet earth, white pepper, toasty oak, smooth texture

2021 Arista ($70) blends several cool climate vineyards from across the appellation; intense, vibrant dark fruit, anise, spice, firm texture 

2022 Bricoleur ($65) inviting red fruits, hibiscus, tobacco, exotic spice, bright finish 

Petaluma Gap

Marked by Pacific Ocean fog and steady winds funneled west to east in southern Sonoma County to the San Pablo Bay, the Petaluma Gap creates an ideal cool-climate setting for producing vibrant and expressive wines.

2023 Kendall Jackson Cloud Landing ($55) located between San Pablo Bay and Pacific Ocean; concentrated, lively dark cherries, forest floor, baking spice, fine grained tannins

Sonoma Coast

A large appellation mostly featuring similar cool climate conditions in various microclimates and high elevation vineyards, though often with more rainfall. The Sonoma Coast AVA extends from San Pablo Bay to the border with Mendocino County. 

2021 Three Sticks Gap’s Crown Vineyard ($75) one of Three Sticks’ “Heritage Vineyards” in located on the western slope of Sonoma Mountain in what now is known as the Petaluma Gap; packed with all sorts of juicy red and dark berry fruit, impressive richness, touch of earth, warm spices, balanced with supple tannins

Carneros

Straddling southern Napa and Sonoma, Carneros is distinguished by the cooling influences of the San Pablo Bay and Pacific Ocean: foggy mornings and breezy, sun-soaked afternoons. 

2022 Bouchaine Estate ($50) the oldest continuously family-owned property in Napa’s Carneros; red fruit, herbal shades, soft palate

2023 Cuvaison Mariafeld ($80) unique Swiss clone produces vibrant, deep, dynamic red fruits, silky texture 

Santa Lucia Highlands

Just inland from the Monterey Bay, the vineyards of the Santa Lucia Highlands are planted on the hillsides of the Santa Lucia mountain range overlooking the Salinas Valley. There are many fine, pricy wines being produced from here. 

2022 Rombauer Vineyards ($55) blend of eight vineyards; rich red cherry, plum, tea, light creamy note

Arroyo Grande Valley

At the southern end of San Louis Obispo County, in California’s Central Coast, the Arroyo Grande Valley is often overlooked but some fine Pinot Noir is made here. Just a few miles from the Pacific, this is California’s coolest wine growing region. Grapes are influenced by the marine conditions making cool, complex, balanced wines.

2023 Talley Vineyards Rosemary’s Vineyard ($90) Talley estate vineyard in view of Pacific Ocean; juicy, ripe red and dark fruit, herbs, savory spice, elegant, chalky texture 

Santa Rita Hills

In Santa Barbara County, the Santa Ynez Valley, especially Santa Rita Hills is notable for its west-east orientation, which funnels cooling Pacific Ocean breezes throughout the valley, has developed a reputation for top Pinot Noir. Also, experiencing marine influences, leading to vivacious, silken wines.

2021 Alma Rosa Barrel Select ($90) special selection from the El Jabali estate vineyard; nicely concentrated, bright red fruit, luscious acidity, earthy notes, 

well-structured, chalky tannins

2023 The Hilt Estate ($50) blend of rich, juicy fruit from Bentrock estate and opulent, and intense fruit from Radian estate; lively dark fruit, savory, fine structure