The People's Palate with Rich Mauro

Slow Food Editore, the publishing arm of Slow Food International recently launched their Slow Wine Guide 2019: “A Year in the Life of Slow Wine”with a US tour that included a tasting event at the Source Hotel in Denver’s RiNo District.

What is “Slow Wine”, you might ask? Structurally, it is a branch of the Slow Food International organization. More importantly, “it follows the same basic core principles of Slow Food: encouraging people to be aware about the wines they drink, where they come from, how they taste and how our choices affect the rest of the world”, according to one of the guide’s editors, Giancarlo Gariglio. 

Originally intended to shine a spotlight on Italian wines, this tenth edition includes entries for California and Oregon. It covers 541 wineries – 370 Italian (and Slovenian), 121 Californian and 50 Oregon – and 24,000 wines tasted. 

With what the editors-in-chief, Mr. Gariglio and Fabio Giavedoni, call “points-free wine writing”, the guide offers a distinctive perspective on the evaluation of wineries and their produce. They replace the score-based formula that has dominated much wine writing with an innovative set of criteria based on Slow Food values. These fundamental Slow Food principles of course consider the quality of the wines tasted but also take into consideration what Gariglio described as “wholesomeness, and expressiveness”. 

Of course, aromas and flavors are important, he added. But quality also includes “the production process; heightened attention to environmental sustainability; the work of the grape grower; the wines’ expressiveness with respect to the appellation; varietal expression of indigenous grapes used in vinification; and winemaking practices that are not overly invasive and that don’t mask or homogenize the wines’ flavors.” 

Wineries whose values (high quality wines, originality, respect for the land and environment) align with the Slow Food Movement are awarded the Snail Prize (the international symbol of Slow Food). Only wineries that are herbicide free can receive the Snail. Wineries whose wines represent benchmarks in quality throughout their range receive the Bottle Prize. Wineries whose wines represent excellent value are awarded the Coin Prize. 

The Slow Wine Prize is given to wines that represent an expression of place, originality and history. The top wines are recognized with the Great Wine prize and excellent values (under $30) are recognized with the Everyday Wine Prize. Gariglio added, “Our editors also look for wines with good price-quality ratio and wines that aren’t part of elitist trends. We want the wines we select to be available to as many wine lovers as possible.” 

The book is organized first by Italian region, then California and Oregon. Each entry describes the people, vineyards and wines that distinguish the particular winery, along with notable viticultural practices. Selections are based on the wines’ relationship to the places where they are made and the people who produce them. In Gariglio’s words, they “wanted to tell the wineries’ stories” and actually visited every winery included in the guide. 

This kind of hands on dedication is what separates the Slow Wine Guide from other guides. If you can’t find it at your local bookstore or wine shop, it is available on Amazon. 

Over the last 15 years, malbec, Argentina’s “signature grape” has established a position among the U.S.’s most popular wines. And it has helped Argentina rise to the position as the planet’s fifth largest wine producer. 

This variety of European origin that has adapted so well to Argentina’s terroir delivers high quality and flavor interest at reasonable prices. Most of the wines can be had at $20 or less. 

It helps that the wines are accessible and eminently drinkable. Typically, you get up-front, round fruit and lush textures for little money. Argentina’s malbec producers have settled into a comfort zone of affordable, easy-drinking reds that increasingly are crowd pleasers. These wines hit the quality/value sweet spot. 

And Mendoza is its signature wine region. This high altitude landscape at the foot of the Andes Mountains births many malbecs that are fine choices for everyday drinking, some appropriate for a fine meal, and a few that would reward time to evolve. 

Alamos, a winery with a 100-year history in Mendoza, specializes in fine values and is a brand to which many consumers turn. Its 2017 Malbec ($14) is one of Argentina’s most widely available and best everyday values. Full of raspberry fruit, it is nicely toasty and velvety. For a few dollars more the 2016 Seleccion Malbec ($25), a special selection, shows more concentration and deeper fruit. 

Making wine for almost 130 years, Pascual Toso, based in the Maipú district of Mendoza, also is a notable value winery. The 2016 Reserva Malbec ($14) is pleasantly fresh with forward blackberry fruit and a touch of oak. 

Domaine Bousquet, a leading pioneer in the high-altitude Tupungato sub-region of Mendoza’s Uco Valley, stands out for its commitment to organic fruit – at every price point.Wines are made with minimal reliance on oak, enabling the fruit shine through. The 2017 Malbec and 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon ($13) are notable for their exuberant freshness and vibrant aromatics, making for notably food-friendly wines.

Argentina also can excel with higher priced wines. Finca Decero’s 2015 The Owl & The Dust Devil ($33) is the second vintage of this distinct red blend from one of Argentina’s top producers. The name is inspired by the winery’s local Lechuza Owls who stand watch over the estate vineyards and the periodic “dust devils” (small, strong whirlwinds). A blend of cabernet sauvignon, malbec, petit verdot and tannat, it is rich yet well balanced, nicely focused, yet sleek. Herbal and peppery accents compliment the present berry aromas and flavors.

Finally, the 2015 Enzo Bianchi ($55), a blend of cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot, and malbec, offers a complex, balanced expression with tobacco, spices, and floral notes, rich berry fruit. It’s fairly full-bodied with a round plush texture and a solid structure signaling further development for 10-15 years. 

Chile long has had a reputation as a reliable, good value producer, mostly for tasty, affordable Cabernet Sauvignons and Sauvignon Blancs, and more recently also for Carmenere, Chardonnay, Bordeaux-style blends and Pinot Noir. While this remains as true as ever, Chile is making a concerted effort to reposition itself as a premium wine producing country. With diverse geography and climate conditions, there is ample opportunity to achieve both goals. 

Consider Cabernet Sauvignon, Chile’s most widely planted grape and Concha y Toro, Chile’s largest wine company. Its largest production and best-known wine, Casillero del Diablo (2016, $11), is a perennial good value. 

At the other end of the spectrum, Concha y Toro’s Don Melchor “Puente Alto Vineyard” (2015, $125) has reached iconic status as one of Chile’s greatest red wines, and one of the best Cabernet’s anywhere. (I reviewed this wine last January.)

Concha y Toro also excels at mid-priced wines. Their 2016 Marques de Casa Concha ($25) is sourced from two historic vineyards, Puente Alto and Pirque, both located in the Maipo region. It is nicely structured with rich fruit.

Another one of Chile’s largest wine companies, Viña San Pedro, founded in 1865, was a pioneer of Chilean wine. Today, it is also a leader in sustainable winegrowing and social responsibility. They even recently introduced a biogas plant that turns viticultural waste into energy. Their nicely structured 2014 “1865 Single Vineyard” ($17) provides bright red fruits with subtle mocha and smooth tannins. 

I also enjoyed the 2016 Odfjell “Armador” ($15). Over 25 years ago Dan Odfjell, a Norwegian shipping owner established vineyards in Chile’s Maipo Valley. Today, all Odfjell vineyards throughout Chile are certified organic and biodynamic. This one is lively, yet soft and round. 

As good as Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon can be, there are a lot of Cabs in this world. What Chile most distinctively excels at is Carménère. Similar to malbec in Argentina, carménère came to Chile from France in the latter 1800s. An offspring of cabernet franc, it now is almost exclusively grown in Chile and has become the nation’s niche grape. 

With its distinctive flavor profile, food friendliness and generally reasonable prices Carménère wines from Chile deserves more consumer attention. It certainly has mine. At its best, Carménère supplies intense, juicy fruit, some spice (coffee, cocoa), smooth texture, and solid but silky tannins.

I wasn’t surprised to find several from Concha y Toro (all 2016 vintage). The Casillero del Diablo ($11) is a good everyday red. The Serie Riberas Gran Reserva ($17) was excellent, full flavored, and refined. The Marques de Casa Concha ($25) was fresh, spicy, toasty, and sleek. The Terrunyo Entre Cordilleras Peumo Vineyard Block 27 ($40) offered lively, bright fruit with herbal and chocolate notes.

And Viña San Pedro’s 2015 “1865 Single Vineyard” ($17) showed dense fruit, a solid structure, yet a refined palate. 

Finally, Viña Ventisquero, a twenty-year-old winery focused on sustainable production, now produces a variety of wines from Ventisquero’s “Grey” series of wines present an expression of a single block of vines. The 2014 Glacier Trinidad Vineyard single block ($20) shows intense fruit, some tobacco, and fresh tannins.

As I mention at the top, Chilean wine is more than Cabernet Sauvignon and Carménère. Look for more recommendations here in the coming months. 

Some of my favorite wines anywhere have their origin in the south of France, especially the Rhône Valley. Vines have flourished in the valley, which runs roughly from Vienne in the north to Avignon in the south, since ancient times. Divided geographically and viticulturally into two regions – north and south. Most Rhône wines in both are red, though there are a few notable whites. 

The north is syrah country. With world renowned wines from Hermitage and Côte Rôtie, it’s no wonder syrah is the most famous grape of the Rhône. But the south is mostly about grenache and this is a grape you need to get to know. The big difference in the south is that the wines are much more focused on blends.

Neighboring Provence, the south has attracted popes, artists and literary figures. Seven popes resided in Avignon during the 1300s. The wines benefit from proximity to the Mediterranean and typically reflect the freshness emblematic of grenache. 

While the southern Rhône has several appellations of interest, the most famous is Châteauneuf du Pape (“New Castle of the Pope”). Although thirteen grapes are specifically permitted, these are always grenache-dominated blends (with syrah and mourvèdre the most common additions). A fine example is the impressive 2016 Château de Nalys ($105), one of the appellation’s oldest properties, with lively aromatics, intense dark fruits, and complex leather, licorice, and spice notes. 

Arguably the best after Châteauneuf is Gigondas about 10 miles northeast. It’s also less expensive. Its vineyards often produce heady, spicy, maybe somewhat rustic wines of strong but well-balanced character. These wines are even more dominated by grenache than is Châteauneuf. 

One such wine is the 2015 Domaine Saint-Damien ($35). This small, family-owned estate has produced a full-bodied wine of delightful character. Another nice option is the 2015 Famille Perrin “La Gille” ($39). Aromatic and lush but with determination and force, this comes from the Perrin family of the renowned Château Beaucastel. 

There are also wonderful everyday values to be found in this region. The most notable are labeled Côtes du Rhône (orCôtes-du-Rhône-Villages), the most common appellation. Côte du Rhône is often considered a catchall designation for wines from vineyards within the Rhône Valley but not included in the more delimited appellations. The appellation’s vineyards extend from Vienne to Avignon. Solid and flavorful, they represent some of the best red wine values in the world. 

Again, the vast majority of the wines are red. While 21 grape varieties are officially included in the appellation, in the red wines, grenache is predominate, usually buttressed with significant additions of syrah and mourvèdre. The best are noted for generous fruit, solid and sometimes rustic body, and spicy qualities.

E. Guigal produces one of the consistently best Côtes du Rhône. The 2015 ($19) with 50% syrah, 45% grenache and 5% mourvedre is a much more intense wine than what one would expect with tons of ripe dark fruit a lush texture, and savory and earthy notes. Another reliable producer is Les Dauphins whose 2016 Reserve ($13), with 70% grenache, 25% syrah and 5% mourvedre, offers up front fruit, with herbal and forest notes and an easygoing texture.

Southern Rhône white wines also are blends, generally are combinations of roussanne, marsanne, grenache blanc and small amounts of other grapes, also are worth attention. From Châteauneuf du Pape, the 2017 Château de Nalys ($105) isa melange of roussanne, grenache blanc, clairette, bourboulenc and picpoul, is impressive in its own right. Succulent and exotic with apple and peach fruit, notes of brioche, cream and a light, floral spice. 

Of course, Côtes du Rhône Blanc is a more affordable everyday alternative. Again, E. Guigal (2016, $19) and Les Dauphins Blanc (2016, $13) – marrying enticing aromas and freshness – are good places to start. 

Just north of the village of Arles (of course, famous for its association with the artist Vincent Van Gogh) across the Rhone River, the Costières de Nîmes appellation is the southernmost of the Rhone Valley winegrowing areas. It is also located between well-known villages of Marseille and Avignon. While predominantly red wines are produced, the whites, like the 2015 Chateau Mas Neuf “Paradox Blanc” ($17), are fruity and substantial. This one is also smooth with 65 percent grenache blanc and 35 percent roussane. 

Finally, the Luberon, nestled east of Avignon, is one of the most southerly areas of the Rhone Valley. Unusual for the Rhône, rosé is predominant here. Still, light fresh, stylish whites also are available. The region also produces some delightfully elegant white wines, to which the Vermentino grape contributes its special citrus flavours. Typical of the area, the 2014 Pierre Henri Morel Luberon Blanc ($17) is mostly three-fifths grenache blanc, in this case complimented with rolle, viognier, and clairette grapes. It is typically light and fresh, with delightful peach and honey.

Within sight of the Alps, Piemonte (the Italian spelling, it’s Piedmont in English) in northwestern Italy arguably is Italy’s most famous wine producing region (unless you want to argue for Tuscany). Of course, that’s like saying George Washington is more famous than Abraham Lincoln.

And that fame is mostly centered on two wines from theLanghe subregion: Barolo and Barbaresco. These wines are always made 100 percent of the indigenous nebbiolo grape. Curiously, nebbiolo appears capable of reaching such great heights only in Piemonte, as there are very few examples of similar quality produced anywhere else. There’s just something about this grape grown in this place as expressed in the resulting wines that testify to the synergy of grape and terroir.

Named after towns in the area, among serious wine lovers, Barolo and Barbaresco are considered among the world’s great red wines. Presenting different expressions of nebbiolo, Barolo is most often characterized as more muscular and tannic, larger scaled, and somewhat austere but with dramatically intense fruit. In Barbaresco, the soil is more fertile, thus the wines tend to be slightly less tannic but better balanced. Still both exhibit substantial tannins and typically display enticing cherry fruit and notes of roses and what has been described as tar. 

Of course, there are many fine producers but good values often seem hard to find, as most of the wines approach $100 a bottle, and some exceed that price handily. But I found two excellent values that also should be fairly widely available in the U.S. 

First, the 2014 Vietti Barolo “Castiglione” ($52). Vietti owners, the Currado family has made wine for over two centuries. They were among the first wineries to produce a single vineyard Barolo in the early 1960s. Today, the Fifth generation offers several single vineyard Barolos and a Riserva but also this one made in what can be described as a classic style. Very aromatic, it is somewhat angular, with firm, yet elegant tannins that unfold across the palate. And it happens to be vegan, meaning no animal by-products were use in its production.

The 2014 Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco “Martinenga” ($60) also is a fine choice. The di Grésy family has roots in Piemonte dating to the 1600s. This vineyard has been dedicated to grape growing since ancient Roman times and owned by the family since 1797. Its bright red fruit is accented with rich earth and suggestions of mint, presented with supple tannins, and finishes with piercing vibrancy.

If you want a sense of what all the fuss is about at a more affordable price, wines labeled “Nebbiolo Langhe”, usually featuring grapes from younger vines and sourced from multiple vineyards. But wines such as the 2015 Vietti “Perbacco” ($26) give a reasonable preview. This one, essentially a second wine to their Barolo Castiglione is typically friendly and flavorful with notes of licorice and spice and the structure of a Barolo. 

Importantly, Piemonte
 is
 much more than nebbiolo. Beyond these icon wines is a quite diverse panoply of native grapes that produce fascinating, affordable wines. 

Probably the next most significant is barbera, the
 most
 widely planted grape 
in the region. Its many benefits include a generally juicy, easy drinking character and reasonable cost, resulting in an ideal everyday wine. It typically produces rich, concentrated dark berry flavors, often with hints of 
licorice, and occasionally earthy notes with good acidity but softer tannins. 
Barbera

 from Asti
 and
 Alba (towns in the Langhe) are what you want to look for.

I recently tasted three fine Barbera d’Asti: 

• 2016 Vietti “Tre Vigne” ($26) fresh and sleek, rich and concentrated, this glides across the palate effortlessly 

• 2017 Renato Ratti Battaglione ($20) notable for deep, lively fruit and lavish mouthfeel 

• 2017 Marchesi di Gresy “Monte Aribaldo” ($18) floral notes and has fine structure 

Dolcetto is Piemonte’s other important variety. The grape is appealing for its exuberant fruitiness, tangy bitterness, and affordability. The 2016 Marchesi di Gresy Dolcetto d’Alba “Monte Aribaldo” ($18) is typically supple, fresh. 

There are also several commendable whites wines, which I will review in a future column. 

Over the last few years, Bourbon barrel-aged wines have become one of the fastest growing wine categories. That’s right, the wine is aged in barrels once used to age whiskey. I guess if brewers can do it (check out Avery Brewing’s “Sandy Claws” and Oskar Blues Brewery’s Ten FIDY Imperial Stout to name just two) and if whiskey makers can use wine barrels…

While I am somewhat of a traditionalist when it comes to winemaking, and some critics think these wines are a stunt for the U.S. millennial market, there is no doubting they have found a market. And I did find the wines below appealing.

Whether crafted with the whiskey drinker in mind or the adventurous drinker looking for a novel experience, the winemakers say that the Bourbon characteristics and charred barrels add layers to the flavor profile, enhancing complexity. Certainly, I would characterize the wines overall as bold, ripe tasting, and smoky, reflecting the char of the whiskey barrels.

Bob Blue, a pioneer in organic winemaking as founding winemaker for Bonterra Vineyards, has fashioned my favorite of the group. He started experimenting with Bourbon barrels in the 1980s and may have created the original California Bourbon barrel-aged wine. Today, Blue makes three Bourbon barrel-aged wines under the “1000 Stories” label – a Carignan (which I have favorably reviewed, the 2016 “Batch Blue” $19), a Red Blend and 2016 Zinfandel “Batch 41” ($19). With 15.7 percent alcohol, this hearty Zin delivers dark fruit, licorice, spice and black pepper with soft tannins.

The 2016 Cooper & Thief “Cellarmaster Select” Red Wine Blend ($30) – syrah, merlot, zinfandel, petite sirah, and malbec, the rest other red blenders – offers up a deep jammy wine that, at 17 percent alcohol, is assertive, big and bold but still drinks with a velvety texture, though with noticeable heat. By the way, if you like this, Cooper & Thief also makes a Tequila Barrel Aged Sauvignon Blanc (2016, $30) and a Rye Aged   Cabernet (2015, $49).

The large, Family-owned O’Neill Vintners & Distillers with vineyards throughout central California, offers the 2016 Exitus Red Wine ($26) – zinfandel, petit verdot, cabernet sauvignon, petite sirah and merlot – at 15.9 percent, has very fresh fruit that borders on sweetness concentrated blackberry and blueberry, with noticeable smoky aromas.

Stave & Steel, one of the many brands of The Wine Group (one of the world’s largest wine companies) offers a 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon ($20). With 13.5 percent alcohol, the Paso Robles fruit achieves better balance but still adds bold, fresh black raspberry, a lively structure, and hints of spice.

Finally, the trend has spread beyond California. I recently tasted two wines from the Australian winery Jacob’s Creek Double Barrel line of wines. These wines (2015, $15) are first aged in wine barrels and then finished in Irish whiskey barrels – hence the “double barrel”. The Shiraz is full and substantial with red fruits and chocolate bordering on sweet, plus toasty and licorice notes. The Cabernet Sauvignon presents currant, tobacco, menthol and caramel notes finishing with noticeable tannins.

Finally, the trend has spread beyond California. I recently tasted two wines from the Australian winery Jacob’s Creek Double Barrel line of wines. Both of these wines (each $15) are first aged in wine barrels and then finished in Irish whiskey barrels – hence the “double barrel” moniker. The Shiraz (14.8 percent alcohol) is full but fresh, with juicy red fruits and licorice notes. The Cabernet Sauvignon (14.3 percent alcohol) seems more intense with plum and currant, tobacco, and more licorice finishing with noticeable tannins.

One final note: the packaging of these bottles also is notable. It seems they are designed to appeal to those same spirit-drinking, adventurous consumers, as they often mimic the look of Bourbon bottles.