Rich, Author at The People's Palate with Rich Mauro

August 25, 2011October 3, 2011

NOTHING PETITE ABOUT PETITE SIRAH

These days I find consumers are more interested in experiencing wines with unfamiliar flavor profiles and more reasonable prices. If you are looking for full flavored wines that provide a lot of wine for the money, consider Petite Sirah. I don’t think you will be disappointed.

The roots of the petite sirah vine can be traced back to the south of France in the 1880s, where Dr. Francois Durif propagated a crossing of syrah and the obscure variety peloursin. The resulting vine naturally was designated “durif.” Although the grape never caught on in France, it was brought to California and became valued as a blending grape to give wines structure, body and color. In fact, many of the generically labeled red wines produced during the following century contained large amounts of petite sirah. Now, DNA testing has proven that the vast majority of what has been known by that name in California is actually durif.

Concannon Vineyard is credited as the first California winery to bottle a varietal Petite Sirah in 1961. Foppiano Vineyards, another Petite Sirah proponent, followed soon after. Interestingly, these prescient families staked their reputations on a grape that had declined (from about 7500 acres in the 1930s to around 4500 during the 1960s). It paid off because acreage subsequently grew to a peak of about 14,000 acres by 1976, as the grape often was used to improve the quality of many generic red wine blends. Then the grape went into decline again during the 1980s and 1990s and acreage dropped to around 2400 in 1995. Since then, though, many vintners again have come to realize the quality possible from the grape and plantings almost tripled by 2005 and reached about 7500 acres in 2010.

Wineries up and down the state now are making varietal Petite Sirah wines. And a promotional organization, P. S. I Love You (www.psiloveyou.org), which was founded in 2002 with 39 charter members, has more than doubled to 81 winery members in 2011. I think it’s fair to say that organization and its founding director, Jo Diaz deserves much of the credit for the grape’s growing popularity.

Despite its name and origins, petite sirah grape is not a lesser version of syrah. It is a distinct variety that happens to have syrah as one of its parents. Thus, it can display a similar flavor profile to syrah – dark berries, tobacco, leather, earth, mineral and pepper, with an ability to age well. But there are differences – it often produces bigger, denser, more rustic wines that generally age quite well.

Petite Sirah also is a good companion for full flavored foods, including red meats, game, strong cheeses, mushroom dishes, stews and the like. It also would be a fine companion for grilled foods and barbeque. One serving note, though. These wines generally are so full flavored and tannic they will stay fresh for several hours and, in some cases, even a few days after opening a bottle.

I wrote my first review of Petite Sirah in 2003. Although most of the wines were quite good and showed nice dark berry fruit, they also revealed the rough edges and strong tannins of the grape’s rustic nature. I often appreciate rustic wines but many took it too far. With my second tasting report in 2007, I noticed more refinement in the wines but many were still big and tough, a bit exhausting to drink. This time, I was impressed that as a group (20 producers and 24 wines tasted blind), the wines showed more abundant fruit, more complexity, smoother textures, more manageable tannins, and overall better balance. My favorites most clearly reflected these qualities on my palate.

To the extent any of my tastings are representative of California Petite Sirah in general, I perceive this as a positive evolution in style and quality. My favorites most clearly reflected these qualities on my palate. One thing that hasn’t changed, though: Petite Sirah still delivers a lot of character for the money.

I have to say the biggest surprise of my tasting is that Miro Tcholakov made my two favorite wines. His 2008 Miro Cellars ($30) uses fruit from Rockpile, a northern Sonoma County appellation. And tons of fruit there is, along with subtle complexities like licorice and a concentrated, yet elegant impact. The only downside is there are just 50 cases. Miro also is responsible for the 2009 Trentadue Alexander Valley Estate ($18). I really loved this wine’s berry pie fruit, silky texture and powdery tannins. I should add I also liked the reserve style 2009 Trentadue “La Storia” ($28), which showed more woodsy, tobacco notes but also strong acids that suggest a long life.

And there were other good wines from Sonoma. The 2007 Field Stone “Staten Family Reserve” ($35) from and Alexander Valley vineyard planted in 1894 that is now farmed organically and sustainably, was rather brooding and tough at first but eventually yielded to time and revealed deep fruit to go along with the strong tannins. From one of the earliest Petite Sirah advocates, the Foppiano Russian River Valley ($20) had nice blueberry fruit accented with cinnamon and tobacco aromas and toasty, peppery flavors.

And then there was another surprise. Two of my other favorites came from Cabernet country, the Napa Valley: 2008 R & B Cellars “Pizzicato” ($28) and 2008 Ballentine “Fig Tree Vineyard” ($25). Both wines come from single vineyards and both are concentrated, tannic wines that would benefit from cellaring. The R & B adds black licorice, pine and tobacco notes, while the Ballentine goes more to ripe berries and spice.

Other northern California wine regions also were well represented. From El Dorado County in the Sierra Foothills, the 2007 Lava Cap “Granite Hill Vineyard Reserve” ($30) began big and brash with touches of mint and cinnamon but later opened up to reveal lovely sweet fruit. From nearby Lodi, the 2007 McCay ($24) seemed reticent to show its fruit at first. Burnt notes and tight tannins dominated the wine but that dissipated and later the wine showed good rasiny fruit and hints of cinnamon and mint. By contrast, the 2007 Shannon Ridge ($24) from Lake County, although finishing with tough tannins, immediately displayed its intense blueberry fruit. Despite considerable size and weight, it had an enticing texture.

I also enjoyed two wines from Paso Robles. A 2007 Clayhouse Red Cedar Vineyard ($25) offered spice and coffee in the nose but lots of fruit and soft tannins on the palate. The 2007 Vina Robles “Jardine Estate” ($26) was dominated by dry forest and spicy herb notes but presented a nice core of red fruit with black licorice followed by a hint of bitterness.

Finally, there also were several notable values.

• 2009 The Crusher “Grower’s Selection” ($14). One of three wines in my tasting from Don Sebastiani & Sons, a company that offers an extensive portfolio of wines made with grapes from numerous regions in the state. This one benefits from Clarksburg fruit that yields tasty currant and raisin fruit balanced with soft tannins. Their 2008 Smoking Loon California ($9) is a bit too syrupy for me but that is offset with tobacco notes and fresh tannins. It should be a crowd pleaser.
• 2008 Bogle ($11). This winery, well known for its value priced wines, has been producing Petite Sirah since 1978. Juicy black fruits are offset with minty peppery notes.
• 2007 Parducci (Mendocino) ($11) is made with organically grown grapes from the oldest winery in Mendocino. Parducci is deeply committed to sustainability from the vineyard to the winery and has produced a juicy wine with fresh fruit and admirable intensity.
• 2008 Concannon “Conservancy” ($15). This winery, founded in the Livermore Valley 1883, has sourced the grapes for this wine only from growers who have placed their land in a legal trust that protects the vineyard from urban develop. That’s especially good for consumers because this wine is full flavored and large scaled.

Although Cabernet Sauvignon is by far still the most popular red wine, producers and consumers alike have become interested in alternatives both for more reasonable prices and to experience different flavor profiles. If you haven’t tried it lately, I suggest you consider Petite Sirah. If you are looking for full flavored wines that generally provide a lot of wine for the money, I don’t think you will be disappointed.

August 16, 2011October 3, 2011

TRY WASHINGTON RIESLING TO BEAT THE HEAT

I’m sitting here writing this column on the seventeenth straight 90°+ day glad that I have a glass of Riesling next to me to keep me refreshed.

I think the riesling grape makes the greatest white wines in the world. Especially in Germany and Alsace, it produces aromatic wines of bracing acidity and potentially long life. Typically, fragrant, floral aromas lead into fresh green apple and stone fruit – pear, peach, or apricot – and occasionally pineapple. Most intriguing, there often is a distinctive mineral component. Cooler climates in Australia, Canada, California and Oregon also produce good examples. But today I’m drinking and writing about Washington State Riesling.

You may be surprised to read that riesling was one of the first varieties grown in Washington and still is one of the state’s favorite wines. St. Michelle Wine Estates is the dominant player in the Washington wine industry. And the company has been in the forefront in establishing Riesling as the state’s premier white wine grape. And with Chateau St. Michelle, Columbia Crest, and Snoqualmie wineries it is the largest Riesling producer in the world.

Chateau St. Michelle, which was established in 1967 and pioneered contemporary fine wine making in Washington, is the state’s largest producer, yet consistently delivers quality at remarkable prices. And there is a style to fit your preference. The 2010 Dry ($9) sports refreshing peach notes. The 2010 Riesling ($9) is just slightly sweet, with juicy apple and pear. The 2010 Harvest Select, ($10) is quite sweet but balanced with crisp pear and apple.

Ever since its opening 35 years ago, it seems Columbia Crest perennially is recognized for providing outstanding value. This certainly true of the 2010 Grand Estates ($11) which impressed me with its juicy apple and pear fruit delivered with lively acidity that balances a slightly honeyed sweetness.

I also enjoyed the two Snoqualmie wines I tasted. The 2010 Winemaker’s Select ($10) is fairly sweet but crisp and refreshing and bursting with pear and apricot fruit. Snoqualmie has distinguished itself as a leader in sustainable farming and winemaking in Washington. The 2009 “Naked” Columbia Valley ($12) is made with certified organically grown grapes in a certified organic facility. It’s bright off-dry apricot fruit is off set with mineral and spice.

St. Michelle’s premier Riesling and arguably America’s best Riesling is Eroica, a collaboration with Germany’s renowned Dr. Loosen winery. The 2009 ($24), its tenth vintage, harmonizes succulent peach with crisp citrus, spice and mineral notes. As good as this outstanding wine is now, it will improve in the cellar.

Not far behind St. Michelle in production and influence is Pacific Rim. The brand was created by Randall Grahm of California’s Bonny Doon Vineyard in 1992 using Washington fruit and was sold to new owners who established it as its own winery in Washington in 2006. I believe these folks when they say they are passionate about Riesling, as 90% of their production comes from that grape. They make countless bottlings, including single vineyards, an organic Riesling and the three tasted for this report: a floral, citrus, 2010 Dry; a 2010 Riesling with slightly sweet pear and apple; and a luscious 2010 Sweet that revealed tropical and peach fruit. All are a wallet friendly $10.

At the risk of sounding like a broken record, Hogue Cellars is another large Washington winery that is known for great values. For 30 years, Hogue has made an extensive line of well-priced wines delivering good quality. Their 2009 Columbia Valley Riesling ($10) did not disappoint. Juicy green apple and a touch of orange come through with a nice balance of cleansing acidity and medium sweetness.

Finally, I must emphasize that numerous smaller wineries make excellent Riesling worth seeking out. Such as Seven Hills Winery, where Casey and Vicky McClellan have been making wine from their Walla Walla home since 1988. Casey crafts exceptional merlot, cabernet sauvignon and syrah, often considered at the top of the Washington quality ladder. He also makes excellent Riesling and Pinot Gris. I was extremely impressed with the 2009 Seven Hills Columbia Valley ($14). It was made in a refreshing low alcohol style that is slightly sweet but bursting with juicy apple, citrus and pear with an enticing mineral note.

July 29, 2011

COULÉE DE SERRANT SEMINAR EXPLORES THE MEANING OF TERROIR AND AUTHENTICITY

What is special, even unique about wine? What distinguishes wine from other beverages, both alcoholic and non? How do we determine quality in wine? Why does wine matter?

To me these were the essential questions at the heart of a fascinating reserve wine tasting seminar I attended at the recent Food & Wine Classic in Aspen. The seminar was billed as a discussion with Nicolas Joly, owner of Coulée de Serrant, and featured a vertical tasting of his iconic Loire Valley wine, Clos de la Coulée de Serrant.

I describe the wines as “iconic” because Coulée de Serrant is an almost 900 year-old vineyard originally planted by Cistercian monks; because the tiny 17 acre vineyard is its own appellation growing only (the little known) chenin blanc within the larger (but also little known) Savennières appellation; because Nicolas Joly is arguably the leading proponent of biodynamic viticulture; and because the wines regularly receive high praise and high prices (around $90-$100, something pretty rare for wines made from chenin blanc); but also because Joly, his methods, and his wines are revered by many but also invite controversy.

Bobby Stuckey (Sommelier at Frasca Food and Wine) introduced Mr. Joly as a visionary who has spent more time thinking about and practicing biodynamic viticulture than anyone. Mr. Joly began by saying, “It’s all about how energy becomes matter,” a statement that succinctly encapsulates the biodynamic philosophy. He added that the main goal is to fully express the place, in this case the Coulée de Serrant vineyard. Hence, the importance of hat the French call terroir.

That terroir is the middle of the Loire Valley, the region of Anjou-Saumur (just to the west of Angers) where the appellation Savennières (a little further southwest) is the epicenter for dry chenin blanc. The steep, south facing slopes of volcanic soils infused with schist (coarse-grained, layered, mineral and crystal heavy metamorphic rocks) yield wines that, as Karen MacNeil (in “The Wine Bible”) writes, “taste like nothing else.”

That’s why Joly emphasized he is a strong supporter of the French “appellation controlee” system, the whole point of which is to “guarantee” that wines produced in a particular place uniquely reflect that place of origin. It’s also why he says, “I don’t only want a good wine but also a true wine.”

A Savennières typically asserts itself with tight acidity that grips the palate on entry. This and an impressive intensity of fruit enables these wines to live longer than almost any other white wine and even most red wines. The most common descriptors include quince, chamomile, honey, cream, citrus, and stone.

To succeed at his goal to be true to the terroir, Joly explained, requires understanding the farm as a biologically diverse system (even part of larger systems – the earth, solar system) and trusting those natural systems to facilitate the operation of their various components to grow the best grapes possible in a given place.

Once I grasped this fundamental orientation, it made sense when Joly said he is “not a winemaker but a nature assistant.” I’ve often heard the statement that “great wine is made in the vineyard.” At times, it has seemed rehearsed, designed to tell consumers and wine journalists what they expect to hear. Not so with Joly.

So how is the wine “made” in the vineyard? The central tenant of biodynamics, as Joly tells it, is to channel the energy of the vineyard to express itself through the vines into the grapes. As a caretaker of the process, the vigneron’s (or wine grower) role is to assist that energy flow to enable the grapes to achieve optimum balance and ripeness.

Similar to organic agriculture, the vines are tended without pesticides, herbicides or synthetic fertilizers and bioengineering and irradiation are off limits. Mr. Joly explained these destroy the “living agents” in the soil. But, like other practitioners of this approach, Joly will employ homeopathic or herbal preparations that are made using substances found in nature and are intended to act on certain aspects of the plant or growth cycle to release the flow of energy.

Then Joly said something that would be heretical in most oenology schools (and caused nervous giggling in the audience): “If the right decisions are made in the vineyard, there actually isn’t much to do in the cellar.” It made me think of an analogy to the world of high fidelity (vinyl) music reproduction, where audiophiles often point out “true” sound quality depends first on the quality of the phonograph (and especially the cartridge/stylus). In other words, if you don’t get it right at the beginning, you have to engage all manner of adjustments down the line to cover up the imperfections.

Mr. Joly continued, with high quality fruit, all he need do is press the grapes; keep the juice in neutral wood barrels; rely on indigenous yeast for fermentation; and pretty much let it all alone until March, only monitoring development and maybe stirring the lees occasionally. Then, he generally does one racking (transferring the wine from one barrel to another leaving sediment behind) and one light filtration right before bottling.

When all is said and done, though, it still comes down to what’s in the bottle. And to me, the eight wines I tasted (admittedly not blind) were a revelation. Joly told us to not expect Clos de la Coulée de Serrant to taste the same each vintage. And the wines in the tasting didn’t. Sure, there were similarities. Each wine to varying degrees showed strong acidity, luscious texture, honey, and an abundance of mostly stone fruits and citrus. Maybe that was the vineyard speaking.

But each wine did have its unique characteristics. An intriguing salty sea breeze quality reminiscent of Spanish Manzanilla Sherry distinguished the 2009. 2008 was the most highly focused. 2007 revealed tangy butterscotch notes, while for 2006 it was caramel apple. I found the 2004 to have the most intense fruit and honey. For 2003, it was the waxy, lanolin-like texture. 2001 was really different showing fennel and tobacco. Finally, orange notes emerged from the 1999, a 12 year-old white wine still incredibly vibrant!

Some have criticized biodynamics as too mystical and weak scientifically (particularly with regard to the more esoteric practices) but Joly argues it requires a deeper understanding of nature and of farming than assumed with the conventional scientific wisdom. Regardless, the most important benefit of biodynamics, at least as practiced by farmers like Nicolas Joly, is it also gives a guarantee of truthfulness in farming and “winemaking.” You know what you are getting, pure, unadulterated produce that is born of a certain place and no other. And we as consumers should be thankful for committed souls like Nicolas Joly for caring enough to assist nature on our behalf.

July 1, 2011

FOOD & WINE PRESENTS ANOTHER AMAZING “CLASSIC” IN ASPEN

For the 29th year in a row, Aspen was party central for the food and beverage industries as the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen and its 5000+ attendees took over for town for four days in June.

On the first night, the trade group Wines from Spain sponsored a huge barbecue hosted by celebrity chef Jose Andres that, besides great food, featured many other celebrity chefs, including such luminaries as Mario Batali and Jacques Pepin. I tasted too many good Spanish wines to mention here but I especially enjoyed a 2005 Bodegas Roda “Roda 1” Reserva ($60) and 2007 Condado de Haza ($30).

Later, I fought my way through the crowds at Jimmy’s restaurant to visit with folks from Ferrer Wine Estates and taste wine with Gloria Ferrer winemaker Bob Iantosca. Gloria Ferrer is the Spain-based family’s Sonoma Carneros winery. I enjoyed the delightful bubbly “Va di Vi” ($22) and especially the 2007 Pinot Noir ($22).

We began Friday night at a reception hosted by Christina Mariani of Banfi Vintners, the esteemed Tuscan winery and international wine importer, and Purple Wine Company, which has a portfolio of several good value California wines. I enjoyed the 2009 Bex Riesling ($10) and 2008 Four Vines “Old Vines” Zinfandel ($12) but Chile’s 2006 Emilana “Coyam” ($30), an innovative blend of syrah, merlot, carmenere, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, and mourvedre made with biodynamic grapes, had the most impact on me.

Next, a stop back over to Jimmy’s where I sipped 12-, 18-, and 25-year-old Macallan Scotches with two of America’s greatest chefs: Thomas Keller and Daniel Boulud (okay, I was just standing next to them). Macallan’s smooth flavorful Scotches are among the world’s best but honestly these were just a prelude to the next party.

This was an exclusive, electrifying bash hosted by Voli Light Vodka at the hip Sky Hotel that featured a much anticipated performance by internationally known pop star Pitbull. Guests lingered in the lounge and gathered around the pool sipping cocktails made with the vodkas, which include Lemon, Orange Vanilla, Raspberry Cocoa, Espresso Vanilla, and the original Lyte. And Pitbull gave an energized performance covering several of his hits, which include collaborations with Enrique Iglesias, Jennifer Lopez, Usher, and Ne-Yo. The Latin rapper is a major investor in and the official spokesman for Voli Light. What’s unique about the Voli Light line is its low-calorie vodkas, which average 25 to 45 percent fewer calories than other vodkas.

And there’s more! The next stop was an event hosted by Penfolds of Australia, where the amazing 2003 and 2006 Grange Shiraz (price range $250-$500 per bottle) understandably received the most attention. But I have to say the real discoveries were the 2006 Yattarna Chardonnay (a mere $115) and the 2004 RWT Shiraz ($82). The night concluded with a visit to a gathering hosted by the importer Wilson Daniels. I couldn’t pass up an opportunity to taste the iconic Champagne Salon. The ethereal 1997 Blanc de Blancs, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger ($500) actually is the current vintage.

Five parties in one night! Good thing Aspen is a walking friendly city.

There also were numerous celebrity sightings in the Grand Tasting Tent, where producers from all over the world set up to display their wares. Chefs Giada de Laurentiis, Marcus Samuelson, Rick Bayless, Tom Colicchio, David Chang, Art Smith, and John Besh were among the most notable.

Of course there also was a cornucopia of foods and fine wines. I was glad I stopped to experience Oregon’s Domaine Serene collaboration with Chef Sam Talbott (of Imperial #9, a sustainable seafood restaurant in New York’s Mondrian Hotel SoHo) – a pairing of the 2007 Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir ($58) with amazingly fresh raw tuna with grapefruit on toast.

I also was impressed with several Italian wines.

• 2008 Querciabella Mangrana (sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon merlot, $20)
• 2008 Querciabella Chianti Classico (sangiovese, $30)
• 2007 Querciabella Camartina “Super Tuscan” (cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese, $120)
• 2007 Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico (sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon, $65)
• 2004 Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino (sangiovese, $60)

This column can only touch on a relative handful of all those tasted but you’ll get the idea. If you’re intrigued, check out foodandwine.com and consider joining the festivities next year!

June 16, 2011June 21, 2011

Watch the Live Webcast with TGIC’s Shawn Loggins at the Food & Wine Classic

I enjoyed the tasting with TGIC’s Shawn Loggins (VP, Sales & Marketing) Very impressive new Malbecs from Argentina’s Kaiken and Syrahs from Star Angel of Paso Robles. Watch and learn, take notes, and if you have it, open a bottle of one of these wines, and taste along.

Tweet your comments @peoplespalate or @TGICImporters

Tune in http://tgicimporters.com/tgics-live-webinar-from-the-aspen-food-and-wine-classic/ and be part of the Aspen Food and Wine Classic festivities virtually!

· Kaiken Corte 2008

· Kaiken Mai 2007

· Star Angel “Aurelio’s Selection” 2008

· Star Angel Syrah 2008

May 31, 2011

RED, WHITE AND SUMMER: WINES FOR WARM WEATHER SIPPING

Fresh, Fragrant Whites Are Perfect For Warm Weather

What I like most about spring and summer is the blossoming of aromas and how that signals the awakening of life after the rest of winter. And a cool white wine is just the compliment for the warmer weather. But not just any white wine and certainly not Chardonnay, which is fine but I’m looking for alternatives that are generally lighter and more refreshing.

For my purposes here, that mostly means the so-called “aromatic whites” Riesling and Muscat. These delightful wines are crisp, fruity, and fragrant. And they are natural matches for the lighter foods of summer. It also means the white Rhone varietals – Viognier, Roussanne, and Marsanne, which admittedly are more “Chardonnay-like” but offer intriguingly different flavor profiles.

For generally reasonable prices, these wines also provide a refreshing combination of acidity and in many cases moderate alcohol – perfect for warm weather. They are great as aperitifs or with food. They are especially good with Asian food but would work well with spicy foods, picnic fare, salads and even simple grilled foods.

I’m one of those who think that, all things considered, riesling makes the greatest white wines in the world. In Germany and Alsace it produces aromatic wines of high acid and, unusual for a white wine, potentially long life. The fragrant, flowery aromas lead into fresh green apple, pear and occasionally peach, apricot, pineapple, or mineral flavors are delivered with bracing acidity.

No Alsatians in my recent tastings but a tasty 2009 Rudolf Müller Riesling from Germany (2009, $10 or $24 3L Octavin) offers good everyday drinking. From Australia, the 2009 Chateau Tanunda Grand Barossa ($16) from a cool climate estate vineyard is a good example of how well this grape can do down under. In the U.S., Washington State is making world class Riesling. A recent favorite is the 2009 Seven Hills Columbia Valley ($14). It is made in a refreshing low alcohol style that is slightly sweet. From California, the 2009 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve ($12) and 2009 Carmel Road Monterey ($14) also are tasty options.

Much to my pleasant surprise, a recent market report announced that moscato is the fastest growing varietal with sales last year almost doubling. I have long been a fan of Italy’s Moscato d’Asti. This floral, fruity, slightly effervescent wine from the Piedmont is made from the partially fermented juice of white muscat grapes. It is sweet, delightfully aromatic and delicate on the palate, low alcohol (6%) and equally comfortable as an aperitif or a dessert wine.

The 2010 Paolo Saracco Moscato d’Asti ($16) is exemplary of the style from a favorite producer. Camposaldo makes a similarly enjoyable 2010 Moscato ($14) from grapes grown in Lombardy. And what better proof do I need of the grape’s newfound popularity than the delightful 2010 Moscato ($7) I just tasted from none other than Australia’s [yellow tail]. The mass producer actually has done a decent job of imitating Italy’s signature style.

One of California’s leading producers of Rhone-style wines is Santa Barbara’s Zaca Mesa. Zaca Mesa was one of the first vineyards in the region, having been established in the Santa Ynez Valley in the early 1970’s. They have released a 2009 Viognier ($20) that offers honey and loads of exotic fruits and a silky texture with a vibrant finish. Their 2007 Roussanne ($25) deals in apricots and figs laced with zippy acidity, full body and an intriguing waxy texture.

Another fine choice is the 2008 Treana White ($25), from one of the leading Paso Robles grower/winemaking families who here has blended Marsanne and Viognier mostly from Monterey’s esteemed Mer Soleil Vineyard into a juicy wine of honeyed citrus and tropical fruits. Washington also is excelling with Rhine varietals. I was especially impressed with Seven Hills 2009 Viognier Talcott Vineyard ($20). The wine explodes with ripe, juicy peach and honeysuckle, with hints of citrus and stone fruits.

Chenin Blanc, native to the Loire Valley, also is a personal favorite. In California, it is usually produced in a fruity, slightly sweet style, though a few brave souls (like Dry Creek Vineyard) make a dry style inspired by the fine wines of Savennieres. I recently tasted for the first time an innovative chenin blanc blend from Pine Ridge, one of the pioneering wineries in the Stags Leap District of Napa Valley. The winery has a reputation as a master at blending. Its 2009 Chenin Blanc + Viognier ($12) is a unique and uniquely successful combination of Clarksburg chenin blanc and Lodi viognier.

The recommendations above are a good start on the summer white wine search. Next comes a quest for Gewurztraminer, Albarino, Verdejo, Torrontes, Pinot Grigio/Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Grenache Blanc, and Pinot Blanc and other good reasons to look forward to spring and summer.

European (And One South African) Reds For Summer Grilling

Although it’s common to think more about white wines as the weather warms, many of us still enjoy a good red, even in summer. I’ve come across several good candidates to match with the season’s grilled and more casual foods.

A fine place to start, maybe to toast the season, is with a bottle of red bubbly. That’s right, red. I suggest the unique Italian sparkler from the Piedmont region known as Brachetto d’Acqui (signifying first the grape, then the town). The 2010 Rosa Regale ($20) from the highly regarded Banfi family is deeply fruited (cherry, strawberry) and exuberant, with refreshingly low alcohol.

As a wine that is generally best slightly chilled, Beaujolais is the ideal red for warm weather. From the northern French region of the same name, Beaujolais is made using a special whole bunch fermentation process solely with the gamay grape, known for a flavor profile of mostly bright red fruits, floral, herbal and mineral notes, and lively acidity. I’ve recently enjoyed several good ones from the highly touted 2009 vintage. Whichever level you choose, Beaujolais represent s one of the best values around.

For a good introduction to the region sample a wine labeled “Beaujolais-Villages.” These are blended from specifically authorized vineyards in the northern of the region. A reliable option here is the 2009 Louis Jadot ($13), which shows a typically lighter but fleshy character with touches of licorice and lively red fruits.

Next try a wine from one of the ten most important villages (or “cru”). Here, a great place to start is with the “Flower Label” wines of Georges Dubeouf, probably the most respected and widely available producer. A good one is the 2009 Morgon ($14), which has richness and depth not often found with many other crus.

There also are single-vineyard Beaujolais that are a real treat for their distinctiveness. Two more from Duboeuf: 2009 Moulin-a-Vent “Tour du Bief” ($17) – quite full and rich, with many layers – and especially 2009 Fleurie “Domaine des Quatre Vents” ($17) – floral, full of ripe fruit, yet balanced and velvety.

From the southern France region of Rousillon near the border with Spain comes another option, this time a blend of so-called Rhone varietals. The 2008 Chateau de Jau Cotes du Roussillon Villages ($16) combines syrah, mourvedre, carignan, and grenache to produce an easy drinking wine of darker fruits and soft tannins.

This time of year, I’m especially fond of Portuguese table wine. While the region surrounding the Douro River in northern Portugal is famous for Port, table wine from the area has become a go-to choice for excellent value. The wines are made with the same varieties used to make Port and even sourced from the same vineyards as each winery’s Port.

The 2008 Dow’s “Valle do Bomfim” ($12) offers bright mixed berry fruit, spicy intrigue and a balance of structure with mellow tannins. The 2008 Quinta de Roriz “Prazo de Roriz” ($17) delivers deep fruit, mostly black cherry, and an appealing mineral note in a stylish frame that also finishes with soft tannins. It probably shouldn’t be a surprise that the region known for making the great Port wines would emerge as a contender in quality table wines.

Finally, for those of you who insist on a Cabernet Sauvignon, I submit the 2008 Glen Carlou “Grand Classique” ($20). South African wines have improved significantly in recent years and this one, Glen Carlou’s signature red wine, is a really fine example of a Bordeaux-style blend. The addition of merlot, petit verdot, malbec and cabernet franc results in a wine with impressive complexity for the price. Strong black cherry and plum wrapped in an oak blanket are accompanied by touches of tobacco and mint. The velvety texture compliments a tight structure.

Whether it’s a classic cab, a hearty Douro, a bottle of Mediterranean sunshine, a refreshing Beaujolais, or an effervescent Italian, you can’t go wrong with red this summer.

May 27, 2011May 30, 2011

CABERNET SAUVIGNON STILL KING OF CALIFORNIA RED WINE

Ever since Bordeaux wines reached star status a few hundred years ago, cabernet sauvignon has been one of, if not the most important and revered of red wine varieties. This has definitely been the case in California over the last fifty years. And even with more attention being paid to a number of other varieties in recent years, it still is California’s most popular red grape and red wine.

According to The Wine Institute, cabernet sauvignon continues to be the most widely planted red grape in California. This bounty is translated into wines in a wide range of price categories. While Bordeaux is the traditional benchmark and notable Cabernet Sauvignon wine is produced all over the planet, California arguably is the contemporary standard bearer. This post provides a wide variety of California Cabernet recommendations in several price ranges. My favorites in each category are listed in bold.

As with most wine, the vast majority of Cabernet, namely those in the lower price range (say $10-$20), is meant to be drunk within the first 1-3 years. Look for a focus on varietal fruit characteristics – aromas and flavors of dark berries, plum and currant. The appeal of these wines is that they are immediately accessible, good values just right for everyday drinking. The wines below are straightforward but show good varietal character and also are affordable restaurant choices.

2008 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve

2007 Parducci Mendocino County

2007 Sledgehammer North Coast

2007 Souverain Alexander Valley

In addition to tasty fruit, a quality cabernet sauvignon is characterized by medium- to full-body, good structure, and noticeable oak and tannin. As prices increase, expect more character, depth and concentration. The selections below (all $20-$30) provide a lot of wine for just a little more money.

2007 Dry Creek Vineyard Dry Creek Valley

2008 Folie à Deux Napa Valley

2008 Rodney Strong Alexander Valley Estate

2007 St. Francis Sonoma County

What most captivates aficionados of Cabernet Sauvignon, though, is that it is capable of developing enticing layers of complexity. You may encounter an array of nonfruit characteristics, including herb, olive, mint, tobacco, spice, cocoa, cedar, anise and earth. These are best in small accents, not as dominant qualities. Although this complexity comes at a premium and requires a little patience (say five to nine years), with the wines below (all $30-50) it is worth it.

2007 Dutcher Crossing Cooney Vineyard

2006 Freemark Abbey Napa Valley

2007 Hess Collection “19 Block Cuvee” Mount Veeder

2007 Kendall-Jackson “Jackson Hills” Knight’s Valley

2007 J. Lohr “Hilltop Vineyard” Paso Robles

2007 Pali “Highlands” Napa Valley

2006 Souverain Alexander Valley Winemaker’s Reserve

In certain prime locations (especially in Napa and Sonoma), Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the few wines capable of combining all of the components mentioned above into a complete package. When all these qualities come together, as they do in the wines below, you find a great balance of fruit, structure and richness providing depth, concentration, complexity, and an ability to improve beyond ten years. High prices (I’m taking over $50) mean high expectations, which, in these wines are met.

2007 Joseph Phelps Napa Valley

2007 Pine Ridge Napa Valley

2006 Jordan Alexander Valley

2007 Grgich Hills Napa Valley

2006 Dry Creek Endeavor

2006 Duckhorn Napa Valley

2006 Sbragia Rancho del Oso

2006 Sbragia Cimarossa

2006 Sbragia Monte Rosso

2006 Sbragia Wall

With all this going for it, I think we can expect Cabernet Sauvignon to continue its huge popularity for a long time.

April 25, 2011

WASHINGTON, D.C. DISHES UP, YES, POLITICS BUT ALSO GOOD FOOD AND DRINK

This article originally was written for Out Front Colorado. Featured image courtesy of Destination D.C.

Planning a trip to our nation’s capitol, maybe to lobby for repeal of the deceptively named “Defense of Marriage Act” or to support passage of the Employment Non-Discrimination Act” or to encourage the Joint Chiefs to expedite implementation of the repeal of “Don’t Ask, Don’t Tell?” After a day of political activism, you’re going to need sustenance and something to quench your thirst. I’ve traveled to D.C. at least once each of the last five years – just got back from my most recent trip – and can help guide you to some worthy choices.

The Dupont Circle neighborhood has been the center of the city’s GLBT community since the 1970s. You’ll find an impressive mix of restaurants, bistros, and bars boutiques, shops, hotels, B&BS, galleries and museums. I (and many others) have especially enjoyed the New England-style seafood at Jamie Leeds’ Hank’s Oyster Bar, as it has become one of the neighborhood’s most popular establishments.

On my most recent trip, my disappointment one day in finding that Café Green (which specializes in vegetarian food) was closed for the lunch turned to culinary joy with the lunch I had at Pizzeria Paradiso. My 8-inch special served up a toasty, crispy crust slathered with olive paste topped with cherry tomatoes, Kalamata olives, basil, and Parmesan, and hedonistically finished with Prisciutto di Parma. It was admirably accompanied by a pint of New Holland’s “The Poet” Oatmeal Stout.

On this trip, though, I spent most of my time exploring the offerings in the Penn Quarter, an area of downtown not far from Union Station, Chinatown and Capitol Hill that has seen a transformation into one of the city’s most talked-about restaurant destinations. The neighborhood has long been essentially the city’s theater district. It also has become an entertainment center with numerous clubs, the sports arena, and numerous world-class museums.

I ate breakfast and dinner here all three days I was in town. Breakfast was coffee and pastries alternating at Firehook Bakery and Chinatown Coffee Company.

Dinner the first night was at celebrity chef José Andrés’ Jaleo. This trend-setting tapas restaurant did not disappoint. I enjoyed a traditional fisherman’s “sopa,” a wild mushroom studded “arroz,” and homemade “chorizo,” all washed down with a satisfying Ludovicus Terra Alta (a fine blend of garnacha, tempranillo and syrah). I was particularly impressed with the high quality olive oil served with bread to start the meal.

For my second dinner, I decided to indulge both the “winie” and the “foodie” in mewith a meal at the popularwine bar Proof. They have great looking charcuterie and cheese menus but I went right to the main menu. My garlicky escarole salad, and roast organic chicken breast with mushrooms, rapini and polenta were soul satisfying. My wines were pricey but very good – a crisp, refreshing Gran Cardiel Verdejo for my aperitif and a Bergstrom Cumberland Reserve Pinot Noir with thdentrée.

My last dinner was at the elegant Ristorante Tosca. I settled on the popular pre-theater menu (something many of the restaurants in the Penn Quarter offer, though none offer as many choices as Tosca) as a more affordable way to sample the menu. As a bonus, ten percent of the price is donated to “Food and Friends,” an organization that delivers meals and groceries to people living with HIV/AIDS and other life-threatening illnesses. I enjoyed whole-wheat square spaghetti, sea bass with spinach and balsamic syrup, and finished with bites of three cheeses. The wines, a melony Kris Pinot Grigio and a full-bodied, rich Novelli Montefalco Rosso (sangiovese, sagrantino, merlot, cabernet sauvignon), were good companions.

After a morning visiting several of Colorado’s Congressional offices, I took an opportunity to explore Capitol Hill along Pennsylvania Avenue Southeast. The area has long been a social and residential center for DC’s gay and lesbian community. I walked to what many consider Capitol Hill’s “town hall” – Eastern Market, the oldest operating public market in the city (since 1873!). It is a great place to stock up on fresh produce, meats, flowers, baked goods and unique arts and crafts. I enjoyed a simple but juicy chicken sandwich at Market Lunch. Nearby Eighth Street SE, with its concentration of shops, restaurants and bars (including Phase 1, the nation’s oldest lesbian bar) is a center for alternative nightlife.

On my way back to the Capitol for more meetings, I couldn’t resist stopping by Peregrine Espresso for a jolt, followed by a stop at Good Stuff Eatery. I passed on a gourmet burger, instead enjoying excellent hand cut fries.

There are many more tantalizing options in the Capitol city. For valuable travel advice, go to the Destination D.C. website. Whether you are traveling for business, politics, culture or entertainment, Washington, D.C. is a special travel destination.

March 17, 2011April 6, 2011

CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIR CONTINUES ITS EVOLUTION

There is something about pinot noir that seems to inspire an almost mad passion about the grape and its wine. It probably has to do with the grape’s notoriously temperamental nature, as well as its legendary ability to reflect the characteristics of the soil, climate and environment in which it is grown (what the French call ”terroir”).

Winemakers seem to be drawn to the dual challenge of making good wine from such a difficult grape that is also a uniquely expressive wine. Unfortunately, most winemakers fail at one or both of these challenges more often than they succeed. But when they do succeed, for winemakers and consumers, it’s like finding the Holy Grail.

The Burgundy region of France has long been prized as the source of the most spectacular Pinot Noir in the world. Pinot Noir from Oregon (which I reviewed in my last post) is now considered by many to be the second best place in the world to grow the grape. However, knowledgeable wine consumers know that California can produce Pinot Noir that rivals and even exceeds that of Burgundy and Oregon.

With producers identifying more appropriate growing sites (namely cooler climates with longer growing seasons that enable the grapes to ripen while retaining good acidity), matching better quality clones to particular sites, cultivating with extra care, and employing improved vinification techniques, there are countless good to outstanding wines now available for consumers. Yet my recent tastings of California pinot noirs from the 2007, 2008 and 2009 vintages demonstrated the quixotic nature of the quest for the Pinot Noir grail.

California Pinot Noir producers still have a challenge in getting the price/quality relationship right. Certainly, California Pinots are good in their own right and are (often significantly) less expensive than Burgundy. It’s just that Pinot Noir generally is not the wine to choose if you are looking for a good price/quality ratio. Still, my tastings did turn up more good values than the last time I did a major review of California Pinot Noir.

Style wise, most California Pinot Noir is vinified darker, fruitier, more concentrated and larger scaled than Burgundy’s reference point. But I think I detected the beginnings of a stylistic shift among winemakers. The best wines in the tasting delivered more elegance, finesse and earthy complexity than I’ve tasted previously, while still containing mouthfilling flavors and intense perfume.

My recent tastings included a representative sampling of California’s major pinot noir growing regions. Recommendations are presented moving from north to south. My favorites are in bold but all wines are recommended in their price range.

First, I found two wines labeled with just a “California” designation. Such wines are most likely to sport an every day price. The 2008 Murphy-Goode ($14) and 2009 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve ($18) of good varietal character for the money.

Mendocino County is best known to this palate for fine Zinfandel and Gewurztraminer but in recent years has taken its place among the top sources of Pinot Noir, especially from the Anderson Valley. The 2007 Paul Dolan, made from organic grapes, ($30) was the only Mendocino wine in my tastings but it showed admirable depth, richness and balance.

Sonoma County contains arguably the most abundant sources for Pinot Noir in the state. Combined, the Russian River Valley, Sonoma Coast and western part of Carneros account for probably more outstanding Pinot Noir than anywhere else in the state.

The Russian River Valley, which stretches through central Sonoma County, produces many of California’s most celebrated and expensive Pinot Noirs.

2009 Rodney Strong ($20). This pioneering Sonoma winery is making the best wines in its 40+ year history, up and down its extensive portfolio.
2009 Davis Bynum ($35). Making Pinot in the valley since 1973, now part of the Jess Jackson empire.
2008 Sequana Dutton Ranch ($40). This winery is anther successful venture from the owners of the Hess Collection in Napa Valley.
2007 Patz & Hall Chenoweth ($55) This 20 year-old Chardonnay and Pinot Noir specialist sources fruit from around the state to make almost exclusively single-vineyard bottlings.

The Sonoma Coast is California’s newest “hot” region for Pinot Noir. It is a large area but already contains several of the state’s most respected vineyards.

2009 La Crema ($24). This thirty year Pinot and Chardonnay specialist continues to craft fine examples of the grape.
2008 MacRostie ($30)
2007 MacRostie Wildcat Mountain ($40). Winemaker Steve MacRostie, who established his own operation in 1987 in Carneros, now is making impressive wines from this new vineyard.
2007 Patz & Hall ($42)

Carneros straddles southern Napa andSonoma and has become a popular source of chardonnay and pinot noir, thanks to the moderating influence of the San Pablo Bay.

2008 Domaine Carneros ($35). This excellent sparkling wine producer has fashioned this wine from organic grapes.
2007 Patz & Hall Hyde ($60)

California’s Central Coast also has emerged as a wellspring of outstanding, though often outstandingly expensive Pinot Noir. Several regions deserve attention.

Certain microclimates of Monterey County have been cultivated successfully by small, quality minded producers. Two wines crafted from selected vineyards within Monterey – 2009 La Crema ($24) and 2008 Pali “Summit” (Monterey and Santa Barbara blend, $29), from a fairly new negociant and Brian Loring, one of the state’s most respected pinot winemakers – are a good introduction to the region.

The Arroyo Seco region in the southwestern corner of the county has produced some good Pinots, like the 2008 J. Lohr “Fog’s Reach” ($35), a fine single vineyard wine from one of the state’s larger wineries. But its the Santa Lucia Highlands overlooking the Salinas Valley that especially has emerged as prime Pinot country, producing some of the state’s most dramatic and sought after Pinot Noirs.

2008 Kali Hart ($21). This is a second label for Talbott Vineyards, one of the stat’s most prestigious Chardonnay producers. Named after the owner’s youngest daughter, this Pinot is made in an approachable style using estate fruit.
2008 Alta Maria ($25)
2008 Sequana “Sarmento” ($32)
2008 Highflyer “Doctor’s” ($38). This comes from the same group that is producing exciting wines under the Sommerston and Priest Ranch labels.
2008 Talbott “Sleepy Hollow” ($40). The is the signature vineyard from this Monterey winemaking pioneer and fine clothing purveyor.
2007 Patz & Hall “Pisoni” ($80)

Farther south, in San Louis Obispo County, the Arroyo Grande Valley and the Edna Valley often are overlooked but produce some fine Pinot Noir. Unfortunately, none were included in my tasting.

Next to Sonoma, Santa Barbara County has emerged as one of the state’s premier Pinot Noir regions, with two great Pinot Noir AVAs. The 2009 Byron Santa Barbara County ($17) offers a good preview of the structure concentration, and ripe flavors typical of the area.

At the northern end of the county, the Santa Maria Valley is home to the famous Bien Nacido Vineyard and a growing number of impressive vineyards. The valley also sources a growing number of wineries. My tastings revealed an impressive portfolio from Byron, one of the pioneers of the area. Byron planted the first vineyard to vinifera grapes in Santa Barbara County in 1964 and has been in the forefront of winemaking achievement in the area ever since.

2008 Santa Maria Valley ($26)
2008 Nielson ($34)
2008 Bien Nacido ($40)
2008 Sierra Madre ($40)
2008 Julia’s Vineyard ($40)
2008 Monument ($60)

Santa Barbara County not surprisingly has experienced the Sideways effect more than any other region, not surprising given that the movie was set there. But the Santa Ynez Valley and the Santa Maria Valley in particular had become recognized for some of the state’s best Pinot Noirs long before the movie. Certain growing areas within Santa Barbara County recently have produced such quality that the county can now contend with Sonoma as California’s best Pinot Noir region.

At the northern end of the county, the Santa Maria Valley benchlands are home to the famous Bien Nacido Vineyard and a growing number of pinot noir vineyards.

From a narrow opening near the Pacific Ocean, the Santa Ynez Valley broadens inland encompassing the vineyards and wineries that inspired the movie “Sideways.” The Santa Rita Hills in the western end of the valley, the home of the celebrated Sanford & Benedict vineyard, has garnered special attention in recent years. The ten-year-old hillside vineyard of Sea Smoke is producing some of the area’s best grapes. Rather than focusing on bottlings of individual blocks, Sea Smoke crafts different expressions of the site. These two new releases, while different (Southing is more elegant and seductive; Ten is more powerful and extracted) are both breathtaking.

2008 Sea Smoke Southing ($52)
2008 Sea Smoke Ten ($80)

March 1, 2011April 6, 2011

OREGON’S 2008 VINTAGE ELEVATES PINOT NOIR

Over the last decade, Oregon has emerged as one of the world’s great Pinot Noir producing regions. Now, with around 400 wineries, the state has developed into a world-class wine tourism destination.

The Oregon wine industry also has become a leader in the sustainable agriculture movement. This is seen in the increasing number of growers and wineries participating in four related certification programs.

LIVE (Low Input Viticulture and Enology, Inc.) certification promotes responsible stewardship of the land by recognizing practices that reduce reliance on synthetic chemicals and fertilizers and maintain biological diversity.

“Salmon Safe” certification recognizes practices that help restore and maintain healthy watersheds.

Organic certification from Oregon Tilth is awarded to those that meet biologically sound and socially equitable criteria. Many wineries also employ organic and sustainable farming practices without official recognition.

The Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) Green Building certification acknowledges achievement in sustainable site development, water savings, energy efficiency, materials selection, and indoor environmental quality.

Most of the wines in my tastings were from the highly touted 2008 vintage and confirmed the vintage’s reputation. As a group the wines show intense fruit and ripeness – yet only one had more than 14 percent alcohol – resulting in wine with power and elegance. They aren’t cheap but most have avoided the price inflation of comparable wines from Burgundy and California. My recommendations from recent tastings are listed below.

Arcachon. This second label for Oak Knoll is named after a community southwest of Bordeaux, which was the home of the founder’s ancestors. The 2008 Willamette Valley ($12) is a very good value; quite flavorful for the price.

Cana’s Feast. Also known for their Italian varietal wines from Washington grapes, the 2008 Meredith Mitchell Vineyard ($48) is supple and balanced with a sense of earth and brown spices with fresh acidity lifting the finish.

Carabella. Owned by a Colorado trained winemaker, Carabella’s first vintage was in 1998. The vineyard, located in the Chehalem Mountains of Oregon’s Willamette Valley has produced an excellent 2008 ($39). Expect admirable complexity from berry fruit, spice and even minerality, carried with good weight and a supple texture.

Four Graces. Established in 2003, The Four Graces is named in honor of the founders’ four daughters. Half of the vineyards are farmed sustainably; the other half using Biodynamic principles. The 2008 Willamette Valley ($29) combines blackberry fruit with earthy, mushroom notes in a firm and, well, graceful frame.

King Estate. Founded in 1991 by the King family, King Estate has grown into one of Oregon’s largest wineries and most popular wine tourist attractions. They also have been pioneers of organic and sustainable farming. The flavorful and firm 2009 Signature Collection ($27) continues a successful streak for this wine.

Ponzi Vineyards. Established in 1970, the Ponzi family and have been leaders in Oregon’s wine industry and the responsible stewardship movement. Truly a family winery, production now is being carried on by a second generation. The vineyards and winemaking are LIVE certified. The winery is a sustainable, gravity-flow facility. And the complex and silky 2008 Willamette Valley ($35) is one of the rewards.

Sokol Blosser. Ever since the first vines were planted in 1971, this family has been leaders in the sustainable agriculture movement utilizing a variety of stewardship practices, including organic farming, sustainable business practices, energy efficiency, and low impact packaging, a LEED certified winery, Salmon-Safe, and Carbon Neutral Challenge. The 2008 Dundee Hills ($34) is 79% organic, with black cherry, earth, spice and good structure with supple tannin.

Stoller Vineyards. The Stoller family has farmed this property since in 1943. Bill and Cathy Stoller became owners in 1993 and began the gradual conversion to vineyards. The new winery is solar-powered and gold-level LEED status. Add Salmon Safe and LIVE certified. The 2007 Dundee Hills “JV” ($25) shows bright cherry fruit and spice in an early drinking style.

Toii Mor. Although founded in 1993, the estate vineyard was planted in 1972. The owners are focused on farming sustainably (LIVE certified); reducing carbon and energy usage; and employing solar energy and a gravity flow winery (LEED Gold). The 2008 Willamette Valley ($22) was fermented using indigenous yeasts and shows dark cherry, earthy mushroom and toast with crisp acidity.