ITALY’S TUSCANY DEFINES SANGIOVESE (AND A FEW OTHER VARIETIES, TOO!)

Tuscany is the most recognizable Italian state to American tourists and wine consumers. The picturesque, hilly countryside that attracts throngs of tourists also is a vinous wonderland. Dozens of grape varieties are grown here but it is sangiovese that dominates. The most widely planted grape in Italy, most agree it reaches its pinnacle in Tuscany.

Sangiovese is generally agreed to be native to the Tuscan region. It is difficult to describe its typical characteristics with complete confidence because different clones are grown under different environments subject to different viticultural and winemaking techniques. Still, in general expect signature black cherry fruit (though various dark berries can show up) and vibrant acidity, with varying elements of earth, forest, herbs, smoke, and spice. With a few notable exceptions, most are light- to medium-bodied and very dry, with a lean, structured finishing and fairly strong tannins

Sangiovese’s best-known incarnation is as the most important component of Chianti. Chianti is a large region covering most of northern Tuscany. The traditional recipe proscribed blending with various grapes, including white ones. Nowadays the rules have been relaxed and the best wines will be at least ¾ sangiovese and usually more. Still, these wines – as is the case with most European wines – are subject to stricter rules than most American wines.

Basic Chianti today is much better than the wicker basket stuff that made the wine famous in the 1970 and later infamous. Recent improvements in viticulture and winemaking have improved quality considerably. The 2010 Coltibuono Chianti Cetamura and 2010 Castello di Gabbiano are good examples that provide nice varietal character for a mere $10.

Of the seven Chianti subzones, Chianti Rufina is consistently my favorite and always a good value. This is demonstrated by the 2009 Selvapiana, ($17), a perfumed wine, with tight yet silky tannins by one of the area’s best producers.

But for a great leap in quality, consumers should turn their attention to Chianti Classico, the specified zone just to the south of Florence stretching to Siena. Wines from this area consistently produce the best Chiantis. Better vineyards, more attention in the vineyard and cellar yield the essence of Chianti. My favorites from recent tastings listed in order:

2006 Castello di Bossi ($20) – an amazing wine for the money; strongly perfumed, tons of beautiful fruit, velvety texture concentrated and quite rich; shows what can be done with 100% Sangiovese.

2008 Badia a Coltibuono Estate ($20) – made with organically grown grapes and vinified using natural yeast; attractive licorice and tobacco notes, pure fruit, linear but polished texture.

2007 Castello di Bossi ($20) – comes up just slightly short of the 2006 but is still a very good wine; overall similar in style, just a bit shy on fruit but more dried herb and spices.

2008 Castello di Volpaia ($24) – there’s an airiness and elegance about this wine’s lively character; though floral and herbal qualities ground the wine.

2008 Castello di Gabbiano Riserva ($23) – all Riserva must be aged two years plus three months in bottle; but this one is still quite assertive, with ripe fruit and a sleek palate, while displaying mineral and earth notes and dry tannins on the finish.

2009 Coltibuono “RS” ($15) – “RS” is for Roberto Stucchi, the proprietor and winemaker at Badia a Coltibuono. This Chianti Classico struck me as a more “modern” style than the others here, meaning softer texture and tannin, with almost sweet fruit and gentler acidity.

But for many connoisseurs it is the area around Montalcino just south of Siena that is the epicenter for production of greatsangiovese wines. Here, Brunello di Montalcino, unlike in Chianti, is made of 100 percent sangiovese (the local clone is brunello) and by law aged two years in oak and an additional three years in bottle. The wines are big, powerful and highly structured, requiring many years to reach their peak. They also are disproportionately priced. Still, the one in my tasting, the 2006 Altesino ($75), did shine. Its complex aromas and flavors – flowers, woods, mint, spice, minerals, and deep fruit – are presented in a graceful, silky, yet firm, fresh frame and noticeable but integrated tannins.

Rosso di Montalcino, typically made of sangiovese from younger vines, tends to be lighter and earlier maturing than Brunello. Maybe this is why it’s often described as a “baby Brunello.” Though not labeled as such, the 2009 San Polo “Rubio” ($16) is basically a Rosso di Montalcino. It is fresh, ripe, and lively with layers intensity fruit. And a great value

In neighboring Montepulciano, wine from sangiovese, particularly a local variant called “prugnolo gentile” traditionally was so prized it was the wine of royalty. Hence, the name “Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.” From one of the best producers in the area, the 2007 Poliziano ($28) is slightly austere with noticeable tannin but offers rich, ripe fruit.

As in Montalcino, Rosso Di Montepulciano is a good affordable alternative to Vino Nobile. And again the 2009 Poliziano ($15) delivers with rich and spicy, this red exudes juicy black cherry, black currant and pepper flavors. It’s juicy and firmly structured, with a lingering tobacco and black tea finish.

As fantastic as these traditional wines are, it is the Maremma that has created most of the modern buzz about Tuscany. The area covers the south and west of Tuscany stretching from Siena to the Mediterranean coast. In the far south of Maremma in the warm environs near Scansano, Morellino di Scansano is generating much attention. With fine values such as the 2009 Le Pupille ($20) it’s not hard to see why.

The wine is made from at least 85% morellino (the local clone of sangiovese). It starts out a little lean but fills out nicely over the palate ending with a soft finish that seems typical of the region.

Finally, no column about Tuscany would be complete without including addressing the “Super Tuscan” phenomena. As the story goes, a handful of Chianti producers in the 1970’s, led by Piero Antinori, concerned with the declining quality of Chianti, decided to make the best wine they could, even if that meant breaking the region’s rules. The “traditional” recipe for Chianti was established in the 1870’s and codified in the 1960’s. It called for a majority sangiovese blended with canaiolo and significant doses of white grapes (up to 30 percent!).

But this plus a few other unfortunate developments, such as overproduction, resulted in increasingly disappointing (mainly tart, diluted) wines. So, Antinori decided to go his own way and in 1971 released a wine he called “Tignanello.” It was 80% sangiovese and 20% cabernet sauvignon and aged in small oak barrels. The consequence was the wine had to be labeled Vino da Tavola (VdT). This is the lowest Italian wine classification. Such wines, which can come from anywhere in Italy and use any combination of grapes, typically were used for common or bulk wines.

Regardless, Tignanello quickly became one of Italy’s most celebrated, and expensive, wines. Needless to say, many others took notice and began making their own versions. The Super Tuscan moniker soon took hold as a descriptor. Nowadays, such wines are labled Indicazione Geografica Tipica (or Indication of Geographic Tipicity). As with VdT, IGT wines are subject to fewer controls over the grapes used and how the wine is produced but they must be from the specific region designated.

Now it seems every Chianti producer also makes a Super Tuscan. The wines can be 100% sangiovese or some blend of sangiovese with grapes like cabernet sauvignon, merlot or syrah. A really good one I recently tried comes from the Chianti estate Castello di Gabbiano. The 2008 “Alleanza” ($35) is comprised of 83% merlot, 12% sangiovese and 5% cabernet sauvignon. Noticeable new oak adds spice and vanilla to its mineral elements. Full fruit stands up nicely to strong tannins.

But it is really the western Tuscany region known as Maremma where the phenomenon has really taken off. And the discussion here must start with Tenuta San Guido. It was in Bolgheri, a mostly undeveloped region just south of Livorno on Tuscany’s hilly Mediterranean coast, where Piero Antinori’s uncle, Mario Incisa della Rocchetta actually made Italy’s first Super Tuscan in the 1940s. This 100% cabernet sauvignon wasn’t released commercially until 1968 but “Sassicaia” quickly reached the heights of Italian wine and now is legendary. It also is what inspired nephews Piero Antinori to make Tignanello and Lodovico Antinori to make “Ornellaia,” another great Bolgheri blend (cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc).

While wines like Sassicaia are now prohibitively expensive but there are accessible introductions to the region and the style. A good place to start is Tenuta San Guido’s 2009 Le Difese ($30). This is a 70-30 cabernet sauvignon and sangiovese blend. It delivers ripe aromas with oak and tobacco, lots of fruit, spice, and hints of licorice and coffee.