Category: Wine

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COLORADO’S WINE INDUSTRY REACHES A HEALTHY ADOLESCENCE

 

In recent years, “eating local” has become a significant factor in the food world. Grocery stores and especially restaurants proudly promote their relationships with local farmers and ranchers. And shoppers and diners increasingly look for products and meals prepared with local ingredients.

 

In my view, this is all good. Yes, I still enjoy prosciutto from Italy, Manchego from Spain, pâté from France, and toro sushi from Japan. But I also prefer to support local businesses as much as possible.

 

There is only one problem. Too often these good intentions don’t extend to local wine. Like most people, I’m too much in the habit of first looking for wines from the West Coast and Europe, even South America and Down Under. I’m not going to accept all of the blame, though. Colorado’s liquor stores and restaurants need to promote Colorado wine more (a shout out here to Wines of Colorado in Cascade for doing their part).

 

To their credit, Colorado restaurants and liquor stores certainly don’t have any problem promoting Colorado beer. And I have no problem drinking it! It just seems to me if we are really committed to our state’s producers, we need to put our money where our mouth is. And Colorado is a great state for consumers to make a local wine commitment.

 

Enter Drink Local Wine Week 2014(www.drinklocalwine.com), which officially ran from October 12-18. As its promoters the organization “Drink Local Wine” (DLW) describe it, “Eating local, or the ‘locavore movement,’ has almost become cliché. What has gotten lost in our rush to eat local is a greater interest in drinking local. Drink Local Wine Week celebrates the Locapour Movement.”

 

The organization and the week are intended to draw attention to wines from other states besides California, Oregon, and Washington. I do think we have seen interest in local wine grow in recent years. The American wine industry has expanded exponentially over the last decade. Now, many states can boast a thriving wine industry.

 

I agree with the DLW board members who assert, “(A) large part of the enjoyment of wine is exploration and discovery, the adventure of tasting the vast diversity of wine, from obscure grapes to lesser known wine regions.”

 

Mt. Garfield & the Book Cliffs Overlook the Grand Valley
Mt. Garfield Overlooks the Vineyards

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And Colorado is at the forefront of that movement. In 1990, there were only five licensed wineries in Colorado, four in the Grand Valley. By my last count, there were over 100 wineries statewide, about one quarter in the Grand Valley. Now, there are wineries located in nearly every region of the state. There are a dozen near Paonia just south of Grand Junction. Several more near Delta and Montrose, and even a handful in the mountains and in the southwest corner of the state near Durango and Cortez. The Front Range actually hosts the most wineries in the state with more than three dozen. Most of those are spread from Ft. Collins to Boulder to Denver. But there are a few in the Pikes Peak area.

And of course, one of the state’s premier wineries, The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey, is located just about forty miles south of Colorado Springs outside of Cañon City. Especially this time of year, as you ponder ideas for holiday gifts, a trip to the fine tasting room and gift shop, where you will find bottles of wine, art and crafts from Colorado and around the world, books, and a variety of food- and wine-related accessories.

 

The Grand Valley, though, still is the heart of Colorado’s wine industry. Around 80% of all the state’s grapes are grown in the valley. With Grand Junction and Palisade bordering the valley and a variety of agricultural products and outdoor activities, it makes for a fine wine country visit.

 

“Relatively speaking, all of the wineries are small. You will most likely meet a winemaker or owner at most wineries in and around Palisade,” says Paula Mitchell, author of “Exploring Colorado Wineries–Guidebook and Journal.”

 

This is true throughout the state. Almost all of the wineries welcome visitors for tasting. Most Colorado wineries are family owned and an owner often is also the winemaker. And the quality of the wines improves every year.

 

Colorado wineries are producing an amazing variety of wines but expect most red wine options to focus on the traditional Bordeaux-style varietals and blends, though I tend to be partial to the Syrahs and Cabernet Francs.  Among the white wines, there are some good Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs, but don’t overlook the Viognier and Riesling wines.

 

If you are like me and you believe in supporting local farmers and artisan producers, you have been delighted to see the volume and quality of such producers improving. Don’t stop with supporting Colorado food. Colorado’s wine producers also deserve your support.

 

Come to think of it, I’m thinking of declaring “A Year of Drinking Locally.”

 

 

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MERLOT SHOWS ITS STUFF

Beginning in the early 1990’s, the popularity of Merlot wines from California grew almost exponentially among American consumers. According to The Wine Institute, just over 15,000 tons were crushed in 1990 and over 292,000 tons were crushed in 2004! American consumers were drawn to the wine’s easy drinking, approachable profile.

 

But then Sideways (the movie) happened. With this Pinot Noir-centric movie’s disparaging of Merlot, suddenly the associated wines became suspect, even though some of the great wines of the world are made of predominately of merlot. But reports of Merlot’s death were exaggerated. While production has fluctuated over the ensuing decade, Merlot remains the second most popular California red wine.

Much of that is soft, admittedly bland swill. But here I’m concerned with introducing discerning consumers to quality choices. At an everyday price, the 2012 William Hill Central Coast ($17) is a solid value, with tasty bright red berry fruit, an earthy note and satiny texture.

Interestingly, my recent tastings did not include any wines in the $20-$30 range. But I did find two just over $30 a bottle that should entice you. The 2010 Clos du Val Napa Valley ($35) is balanced and elegant, focused on cherry fruit. It is buttressed with a significant amount of cabernet sauvignon and dollops of petite verdot and cabernet franc. If you prefer super ripeness, you’ll think this lean and shy. I appreciate its firmness and freshness.

In contrast, the 2011 Freemark Abbey Napa Valley ($34) is more luscious and supple. It is blended with small amounts of cabernet sauvignon, petite verdot and cabernet franc, making it rich in dark cherries and brown spices.

For a few dollars more, the 2009 Grgich Hills Napa Valley ($42) is attractive for its complex mix of sweet red and black fruit, with coffee, herbal and cedar notes. It’s quite tasty and rich, though somewhat lean in style, with a touch of heat in the finish.

But I was really impressed with these excellent wines from the fifteen-year-old Buty winery in Washington State. The 2010 “Merlot-Cabernet Franc” ($40), using fruit from the Conner Lee Vineyard and Champoux Vineyard and blended with 42% cabernet franc, offers a mix of well focused dark berry fruit accented with herbs, brown spices and bittersweet chocolate delivered in a silky, elegant frame.

 

The 2011 “Merlot Cabernet-Franc” Conner Lee Vineyard ($45), blended with 33% cabernet franc, shows nice balance of red and black fruits steadied with crisp but lush acidity and accented with earthy, savory and spice notes. Both beckon you to drink them now but will develop for the next five to ten years.

These are all very good wines. Still, if you want to experience the heights of what West Coast Merlot can achieve, your journey should begin with Duckhorn Vineyards. Duckhorn produced its first wines in 1978 and quickly established a reputation as one of California’s best Merlot producers. Over the years, they have developed a style both for their Cabernets and Merlots that generally has been described as hard or tough when young, certainly rich and full-bodied, with generous fruit and ample tannins calling for aging 5-10+ years. Doesn’t sound like the stereotype of the soft, quaffable Merlot, does it? The only downside is this level of quality comes at a price. Duckhorn wines occupy the upper stratosphere of wine pricing. But the following new releases will reward the investment.

 

  • 2010 Napa Valley ($54) represents the craft of blending – in this case several prized vineyards to express the essence of Napa Valley – yielding a structured wine with powerful black fruits, prominent oak and strong tannins.

 

  • 2010 Carneros ($70) from vineyards in the southern end of the valley that benefit from the cooling influence of the San Pablo Bay, is tighter and more tannic, a bit earthy, but with sweeter, brighter cherry and plum.

 

  • 2010 Atlas Peak ($70) shows the elements of mountain grown fruit – wild berry, currant and cola, firm tannins yet velvety palate, substantial weight and rich finish.

 

  • 2010 Three Palms Vineyard ($90) on the northeast side of the valley floor, is Duckhorn’s flagship wine made since 1978. Its signature is to begin life hard, tight and tough, gradually yielding succulent currant and cherry fruit and developing herb and mocha notes rewarding patience with richness and complexity.

 

  • 2010 Rector Creek Vineyard ($90), located near Yountville, was the most immediately satisfying for its more approachable tannins, softer texture, luscious berry and cherry fruit, and creamy oak.

 

  • 2009 Stout Vineyard ($85), from a vineyard on Howell Mountain, is another one with hard tannins and a tough facade. Yet, it is really rich in black and red fruits, toasty oak and a polished palate.

 

NOTE: Featured Image photo courtesy of Close du Val Winery

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ZINFANDEL PROVES AGAIN WHY IT’S MY FAVORITE WINE

As my favorite wine, I naturally drink a lot of Zinfandel. One reason is it’s quite versatile with food. It is great with spicy foods like Italian and Indian. But it really shines with the barbecue and grilled foods especially enjoyable this time of year.

 

I mostly love Zinfandel because it captures the essence of exuberance and zest in a glass. Although it can be made in different styles, it typically is big and bold, with a brash texture and lively raspberry, cherry and blackberry fruit accented with spice (black pepper, sage) and a brash, even a little wild character often described as briar or bramble. It also represents great value, as most of even the best wines are under $50.

 

Some things to keep in mind, though: Zinfandel tends toward high alcohol. The wines in my tastings ranged from 14% to 15.5%. Interestingly, nearly every wine contained some amount of petite sirah, usually to add backbone. Most will drink well for up to five years. Finally, I enjoyed the wines more when they were slightly chilled to 55 or 60 degrees. Here are my recommendations listed roughly in order of preference:

 

OUTSTANDING

2010 Bella “Rocky Ridge Vineyard” Rockpile ($45) – From one of the best Zinfandel producers, this high elevation (1300 feet) vineyard has produced a fine Zin that also will age well. It is dramatic and intense with brambly raspberry, cherry and blackberry, also spice and anise; it manages to be full-bodied yet elegant.

 

 

 

 

EXCELLENT

 

2012 Dry Creek Vineyard “Old Vine” Dry Creek Valley ($30) – The average 90+ year-old vines yield a firm but luscious wine of concentrated, briary black cherry and blackberry fruit, with suggestions of sweetness and spice.

 

2010 Bella “Lily Hill Estate” Dry Creek Valley ($40) – This vineyard, originally planted in 1915, has produced a big, juicy wine of concentrated wild berries and spicy herbs, with woodsy notes and a lush but firm texture that suggests improvement over time.

 

2011 Amapola Creek “Monte Rosso Vineyard” Sonoma Valley “Vinas Antiguas” ($42) –This unfiltered and unfined wine shows the pedigree of its mountain source and 118-year-old dry farmed vines. It is dense, with cherry and blueberry fruit, licorice, pepper and spice notes, sleek texture, and noticeable but soft tannins.

 

2012 Dry Creek Vineyard “Heritage Vines” Dry Creek Valley ($19) –This is rustic, though easy going, expressive with wild berry, pepper, chocolate and spice, all buttressed with bright acidity and fresh tannins.

 

VERY GOOD

 

2012 Artezin Mendocino ($17) – Also rustic, this delights with lively raspberry and boysenberry, spicy herb, a soft mouthfeel but solid tannic structure.

 

2011 Frank Family Napa Valley ($37) – As with most Napa wineries, Frank Family is best known for Cabernet but I’ve always enjoyed the Zin and this is another winner. Its ripe cherry and raspberry fruit compliment anise, spicy herb, sweet oak and a suggestion of minerality.

 

2012 Rancho Zabaco “Sonoma Heritage Vines” Sonoma County ($15) – Over half of the grapes for this Zinfandel specialist’s wine come from the Dry Creek Valley. It is plump, with juicy black and red fruits, brown spices, firm and spicy in the finish. Excellent value.

 

2010 Grgich Hills “Estate Grown” Napa Valley ($35) – From the winery’s organic and biodynamic Miljenko’s Vineyard, this is ripe and juicy as cherry and raspberry join chocolate, licorice and spicy herb in a dense wine finishing with firm tannins and some heat.

 

2011 The Federalist Dry Creek Valley ($29) – Honoring our founding fathers and zinfandel’s distinctly American character, this one offers tart cherry and spicy herb, balanced with brambly raspberry and blackberry and an intriguing char note.

 

2011 Artezin Dry Creek Valley ($25) – A solid Zin of juicy, ripe blackberries accented with earth and chocolate, weighty but balanced.

 

2010 Renwood “Premier Old Vine” Amador County ($20) –This one is loaded with jammy raspberry followed by spicy notes. Ample fruit nicely balances its firm structure.

 

2011 Four Vines ”Biker” Paso Robles ($18) – Another Zin specialist, zesty red fruits, spice and toasted herb flavors are its inviting calling cards.

 

2012 Pedroncelli “Mother Clone” Dry Creek Valley ($16) – After four generations in Sonoma, the Pedroncelli family still produces trustworthy Zins. This one’s peppery with black and tart red fruits, creamy and spicy notes, fresh acids and smooth tannins.

 

2011 Coup de Grâce Red Wine Lodi ($28) – intense old-vine character with spicy black and red berry fruit, licorice, earth, and full-bodied texture; not for the faint-hearted

 

OTHER GOOD ZINS WORTH YOUR ATTENTION

 
2012 Edmeades Mendocino ($20) – fermented with native yeast, briary red and black berries, hints of creamy oak, earth, and tobacco, lively acidity and ample tannins

 

2012 Zin-phomaniac Old Vines Lodi ($17) – The racy label beckons you but the wine delivers. Sourced from vineyards ranging from 20 to 75 years old, it’s very full-bodied, suggesting sweetness, with dark cherry, caramel and spice.

 

2012 Murphy-Goode Liar’s Dice Sonoma County ($21) – a welcoming blend of Dry Creek and Alexander Valley fruit offering jammy raspberry and black cherry with just a touch of spice

 

2012 Decoy Sonoma County ($25) – part of the Duckhorn portfolio, quite aromatic bright red berry tones, exuberant acidity finishing with a chalky note

 

2012 Rodney Strong Knotty Vines Sonoma County ($25) – a fine blend of old vine Russian River and Alexander Valley fruit, bright red cherry and cranberry with smoky and spicy notes, fairly tannic

 

2012 Caricature Old Vine Lodi ($17) – from the LangeTwins fifth generation Lodi farm, including some 100-year-old vines, spicy blackberry and boysenberry, with creamy, smoky notes

 

2011 Renwood Fiddletown Amador County ($25) – a rustic style, woodsy notes but quite ripe and peppery with a hint of anise, finishes tannic

 

2012 Kendall-Jackson “Vintner’s Reserve” Mendocino ($17) – brambly raspberry, plump and juicy blueberry, finishing with some grip

 

2012 Four Vines “Truant” California ($12) – juicy blue fruits, plump, easy drinking with good depth

 

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CHARDONNAYS FRESH ENOUGH FOR SUMMER HEAT

(Featured image courtesy of Sequoia Grove Vineyard.)

 

Chardonnay has something like a 30 year record as America’s favorite white wine. Its deserved reputation for greatness undoubtedly is at least partly responsible for that popularity. Another likely reason consumers have been so drawn to the wine is it can be made in different styles to appeal to different tastes and occasions.

 

Many wineries attempt to emulate the richness and depth of Burgundy, the benchmark for the grape. Thankfully, at least as many produce lighter, fresher, fruitier versions that can easily keep fans drinking their favorite wine throughout the heat of the summer.

 

These Chardonnays typically offer the grape’s ripe fruit flavors – usually citrus, apple, pear, or tropical, and sometimes melon or fig – but in a more easy drinking style and less of the spicy or toasty oak, honey, butter, cream, vanilla, butterscotch or hazelnut.

 

The key to the most successful examples is balancing use of oak barrels and secondary malolactic fermentation to compliment ripe fruit with good acidity. Judicious use of oak means less oak period but also less new oakand less time in barrel. Most are whole cluster pressed to preserve the freshness of the juice. Many only partially undergo the malolactic that softens and rounds out the juice.

 

I have tasted over three dozen Chardonnays in the last few months and have selected the following seventeen worth your attention.

Some, like the 2012 Four Vines “Naked” ($12), actually eschew oak altogether fermenting the juice in stainless steel tanks and aging the wine in bottle. Its bright, a bit sweet citrusy Santa Barbara County fruit shines through without inhibition. Only ten percent of the Sonoma County fruit that comprises the 2012 Decoy ($20) spent time in barrel, complimenting its slightly sweet citrus, pear and spice notes. The just fifteen percent of barrel time seen by the 2012 Pedroncelli “Signature Collection” ($14) disappears behind its lively lemon/lime and tropical Dry Creek Valley fruit.

 

 

The following wines successfully use just slightly more barrel treatment. The 2013 CrossBarn (by Paul Hobbs) Sonoma Coast ($25) – with its hazelnut and butter notes, racy citrus, apple and pineapple – is a real treat. At everyday prices, the 2011 Souverain North Coast ($13) – with just enough oak to balance the sweet fruit cocktail flavors –delivers refreshing drinking. The 2012 Murphy Goode California ($14) is juicy, viscous and like tasting lemon cream pie. The 2012 Rodney Strong Sonoma County ($17) quite aromatic, with fresh citrus orange, a juicy crisp finish, and an intriguing touch of licorice.

 

The 2012 Sequoia Grove Napa Valley ($28) takes a different approach. While the wine is barrel aged and fermented, more than two-thirds of those barrels are neutral oak. And significantly, the wine did not go through the secondary malolactic fermentation that would have softened its crisp citrus, apple and pear flavors.

 

And the 2012 Artesa Carneros ($20) strikes a middle ground with half stainless steel, half oak and half malolactic yielding a fresh and juicy wine, featuring lively tropical and orange fruits broadened by lightly creamy notes. With a similar approach, the 2012 Wente “Morning Fog” Livermore Valley ($15) achieves a pleasantly fruit forward style.

 

 

As much as I came to prefer the lighter touch in my tastings, I also found several wines that underwent full malolactic fermentation and were treated with significant oak during both fermentation and aging (though spare on the new oak) but deftly walk the line between richness and freshness, making them fine choices for current drinking. Despite the abbreviated notes, they all are very good wines.

 

  • 2011 Matanzas Creek Sonoma County ($26) succulent
  • 2012 Kendall-Jackson “Grand Reserve”($22) dramatic fruit impact
  • 2011 J. Lohr “Highlands Bench” Santa Lucia Highlands ($25) focused, deep fruit
  • 2012 Byron Santa Barbara County ($17) spicy lemon cream
  • 2012 La Crema Sonoma Coast ($23) ripe white peach
  • 2012 Alta Maria Santa Maria Valley ($28) brisk but full fruited
  • 2012 Wente “Riva Ranch” Arroya Seco ($22) mixed citrus/tropical fruits

 

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FRESH ROSÉS AND LIGHT REDS FOR SUMMER SIPPING

Think Pink for Summer!

 

DRY pink wines seem to be gaining appreciation in this country. Of course, sweet “blush” wines have been popular for years. Europeans, on the other hand, have known for a long time the joy of drinking a good pink wine. The most common term is Rosé (French) but you may also see Rosato (Italian) and Rosado (Spanish).

 

I’m talking about wines that are dry or occasionally only slightly sweet. Expect bright, fresh fruit aromas and flavors of strawberry, cherry, raspberry, or cranberry. Some even exhibit a red-like level of intensity, body and complexity. But the best always display fresh fruit aromas and flavors that approximate the profile of their red siblings but drink more like white wines. Because of their freshness and lively fruit, pinks are always best drunk young, so look for the most recent vintages available.

 

There are essentially three ways to make a pink wine. The most common method is to crush red grapes and leave the juice in contact with the grape skins (the source of a wine’s color) only briefly. The second technique is a process called “saignée” in which a certain amount of juice is “bled off” shortly after red grapes are crushed. The third approach involves blending white and red wines to the desired effect.

 

Among devotees, France is the prime source. There is a dizzying array of French Rosés from all over the country but most notably the south – places like Provence, Languedoc-Roussillon, Bandol, Cotes-du-Rhone, and Tavel. But just about every other wine producing country also has gotten into the act.

For instance, I came across a nice 2013 Pedroncelli Dry Creek Valley Signature Collection “Dry Rosé of Zinfandel” ($12). This 87 year-old winery has produced a flavorful rose at a fair price. From Spain, the 2013 Cune Rioja Rosado ($14), made from the dominant local red grape, tempranillo, was fresh and flavorful with tasty strawberry and raspberry notes.

 

And from Esporão, Portugal’s leading family winery since 1267, I have two recommended Rosados. The 2013 “Alandra” at $7 won’t break the bank and shows amazing depth of fruit (dark berries and cherries) for this price. It is a blend of indigenous arogonez and touriga nacional with syrah. The 2013 “Vinha da Defesa” ($15), which blends arogonez and syrah, offers fresh, fruity aromas and a touch of wild strawberries on the palate.

Finally, from South Africa the 2013 Mulderbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé ($12) not surprisingly is made from 100% cabernet sauvignon. It is a bit bigger than your typical rosé, yet is still refreshing with cherry and currant fruit.

 

Light Reds Have Their Place, Too

 

Like most folks, I drink a lot less red wine during warm weather months. But there are lighter reds that can be plenty satisfying this time of year. And don’t be afraid to chill them down a bit.

 

German Pinot Noir. You might think Germany is an unlikely place to look for what we call Pinot Noir and they call Spatburgunder. But try the four wines below and that attitude may change. While Riesling is justifiably the great wine import of Germany, the estates below (located in the Baden region) are considered among the best producers of German Pinot Noir. While a bit pricey and hard to find, these are light and fresh but flavorful and worthy of your attention.

                                                       

  • 2011 Franz Keller “Franz Anton” Schwartzer Adler ($42): bright red cherry, slightly earthy and smoky; bright fruit in the forefront with soft tannin
  • 2011Franz Keller Schwartzer Adler ($25): more complex with dark cherry, brown spices, oak, earth and mushroom notes but drinks with crisp red cherry
  • 2010 Bernhard Huber Malterdinger ($38): deep, sweet berry fruit is up front; earthy note joins a very fresh palate and a nicely bitter touch in the finish
  • 2010 Salwey Trocken ($22): plump dark red fruits blend with bitter herbs and earthy flourishes all drinking juicy and fresh

 

My recent tastings have revealed a handful of other good choices.

 

2010 CUNE Rioja Crianza ($14). This young wine comes from one of Spain’s older wineries (founded in 1879). Dominated by tempranillo with small amounts of local grapes mazuelo and garnacha, fermentation in stainless steel with just one year of oak aging, yields fresh, bright red berries with some earth and elegant, yet lively balance.

 

2012 Pedroncelli Sangiovese Alto Vineyards ($16). This nearly 90 year old winery was a pioneer of grape growing in Sonoma County’s Dry Creek Valley and is still family owned. Harkening to their Italian heritage this Tuscan-style wine offer dark cherry, forest, herb and light spice in a welcoming and easy drinking frame.

2010 Mulderbosch “Faithful Hound” ($18). This Bordeaux-style blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, petit verdot, cabernet franc, and malbec is soft but complex with forest and tobacco notes but also generous fruit assisted by stainless steel fermentation and barrel maturation. 

2011 Souverain Cabernet Sauvignon North Coast ($13). Souverain consistently produces some of California’s mostreliable wine values and this Cab (buttressed with dollops of four other grapes) is no exception. Fresh red fruits meld with cocoa for a juicy, satisfying drink.

 

 

2012 Caricature Cabernet Sauvignon ($17). Caricature is a fun label of lighthearted wines produced by LangeTwins Family Winery in the Lodi region east of the Bay Area. The area is known for producing flavorful grapes at low prices. Bright red cherry and red currant join cedar notes in a light and tangy drink.

 


2012 Gnarly Head Cabernet Sauvignon ($12). This is a label produced by the Indelicato Family, who has an over 80-year history of winegrowing in California. Committed to sustainable winegrowing in their Monterey and Lodi vineyards, they have produced a wine with fairly deep berry fruit that is soft but fresh and tangy with sweet fruit.

 

2011 Kendall-Jackson “Vintner’s Reserve” Summation ($17). Kendall-Jackson has grown over the last three decades into one of California’s largest wine producers but quality hasn’t suffered. The Vintner’s Reserve line still regularly offer good value. Summation is the red blend and this one is one-third syrah and one-third zinfandel, with dollops of at least five other grapes. Expect really nice black fruits with a whiff of smoke and a hint of wood wrapped in a smooth texture.

 

2011 Caricature Red Blend ($17). This blend is mostly cabernet sauvignon and zinfandel, which contributes vibrant cherry, prune and currant fruit while some oak aging imparts caramel notes. It all glides light and tangy over the palate, finishing refreshingly slightly bitter.

 

These red wines are delightfully crisp, fruity, and fragrant. And they are easy drinking and natural matches for the lighter foods of summer, as well as grilled and barbecued. For generally reasonable prices, these wines also provide a refreshing combination of acidity and in many cases moderate alcohol – perfect for warm weather. Enjoy!

 

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FRESH, FRAGRANT WHITES ARE PERFECT FOR WARM WEATHER

What I like most about spring and summer is the blossoming of aromas and how that signals the awakening of life after the slumber of winter.  And a cool, light, crisp, refreshing white wine is just the compliment for the warmer weather. Below are a variety of recommendations from my tastings over the past several months.

 

German Riesling. My favorite white wine any time of year is German Riesling. These wines typically are enticingly aromatic with bracing acidity and typically green apple, citrus and stone fruit flavors. Most intriguing, there often is a distinctive mineral component. It produces aromatic wines of high acid and, unusual for a white wine, potentially long life. The fragrant, flowery aromas lead into fresh green apple, pear and occasionally peach, apricot, pineapple, or mineral flavors are delivered with bracing acidity. The wines below provide some blanced sweetness.

  • 2012 Bischofliche “Ayler Kupp” Kabinett ($23) – a single vineyard wine from the Mosel is fresh, fruitful and satisfying, with just a hint of sweetness.
  • 2012 Friedrich-Wilhelm-Gymnasium “Graacher Himmelreich” Kabinett ($23) – similar to the Ayler but more pronounced apple.
  • 2012 Schloss Vollrads Spatlese ($31) – from a storied estate in the Rheingau, this one is sweeter but delightfully fresh with minerality.
  • 2012 “Fritz Willi” (by Friedrich Wilhelm Gymnasium, $12) – a good entry-level wine is another successful effort by a venerable winery to produce a wine labeled in a more consumer friendly manner. It is made from grapses sourced from the Graacher Himmelreich, Graacher Domprobst, Bernkasteler Badstube, Trittenheimer Apotheke and Falkensteiner Hofberg vineyards in the Mosel and Saar valleys.

 

Chenin Blanc. Native to the Loire Valley, Chenin Blanc also is a personal favorite and has found a few hospitable locales in California. There, it is usually produced in a fruity, slightly sweet style, though a few brave souls (like Dry Creek Vineyard) make a dry style inspired by the fine wines of the Loire Valley Savennieres. The 2013 Dry Creek Vineyard ($12) made with grapes from Clarksburg near Sacramento, is always a reliable choice. This stainless steel fermented wine is quite fragrant with peach, melon, apple and citrus.

South Africa also is quickly becoming a reliable source of good Chenin Blanc, as the 2011 Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc “Steen op Hout” ($14) demonstrates. Although this wine saw some time in barrel, it is fresh, fruity, and bright, with deep apple, pear and cashew in nose and zesty acidity and tropical fruit mouth.

 

California Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio. There may be no better summer wine than a crisp, refreshing Pinot Gris. Just in time for the warmer weather. Pinot Gris, the so-called “grey pinot,” also can be a fine choice this time of year. It reaches its epitome in Alsace and can be quite fine in Oregon but I found the 2013 MacMurray Estate Vineyards Russian River Valley Pinot Gris ($20), the first bottling under the winery’s new label, to have enticingly rich flavors of pear, baked apple, dried fig and white peach. It is fermented in stainless steel and one-quarter is aged on the lees.

Pinot Grigio, usually suggesting a lighter Italian style, is the best known type among Americans. At half the price, the 2013 Belle Ambiance California Pinot Grigio ($10) is typical of the style, as it tends to fresh citrus and melon carried in a brisk, yet easygoing frame.

 

Spain. Native grapes from Spain’s northwest region of Rías Baixas and the northern region of Rioja, which is better known for its red wines, make for light hearted, zesty summer sippers. The 2013 Cune “Monopole” Rioja ($15) is produced using local viura, the major white grape of the region, which, like its namesake macbeo in Penedes, is noted for its aromatics and acidity.

 

From Rías Baixas, the 2013 Terras Gauda “O Rosal” ($24) is a blend dominated by albariño (the most important white grape of that region), with additions of loureiro and caiño blanco (which had almost disappeared from the region but was recovered by Terras Gauda in the 1990s). all from the O Rosal Valley, this blend produces a wine with crisp and lively fresh citrus, orange and peach deepened with an earthy touch.

 

Italy. While Italy is justly famous for its red wines, there also is a plethora of interesting white wines. Much of that interest, as with Spain, comes from the indigenous grapes. Someday I need to write a whole article on Italy’s whites but for now here are a few nice ones from Italy’s northeast.

 

From the northeastern province Friuli near Venice, the 2012 Masi Masianco ($15) is a unique, enticing blend of mostly pinot grigio and some indigenous verduzzo produced using the traditional winemaking method of drying the grapes before fermentation (known as appassimento) to increase concentration and intensity. crisp citrus, honey Lemon, peach, dried apricot, honey, touch of spice, honey and cantaloupe melon

 

Prosecco, with its light, frothy flavors has achieved significant popularity in recent years. It comes from an unlikely area in the Veneto, in the hills just north of Venice and is made using the native glera grape. Affordable and eminently drinkable (typically lower alcohol), it is a versatile for many occasions. I recently enjoyed the Prosecco from La Marca ($17) from a 40-year-old cooperative representing 5,000 local winegrowers who farm more than 17,000 acres. Its clean, refreshing style and delicate, apple fruit are quite appealing. Another good option, the Piccini Prosecco ($16) also was very nice, with a profile of white flowers, white peaches, and pears.

 

Speaking of Italian bubbly, you may not be aware the “Metodo Classico” (the Champagne Method) bubbly made in the Franciacorta region in the foothills of the Alps not far from Lake Garda is some of the best sparkling wine in the world. Franciacorta also uses the traditional Champagne grapes pinot noir and chardonnay. The Berlucchi family gets credit for initiating the practice in the 1970’s. Their 2006 Berlucchi Franciacorta ‘61 Brut ($35) – 100% chardonnay and bottle aged five years – is crisp, elegant and refined. The ’61 refers to 1961 as the year the brand was founded.  With apple and pear fragrances and velvety texture, this wine displays lovely depth and a zesty acidity.

 

 

 

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CALIFORNIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON: VALUES ARE HARD TO FIND BUT THEY ARE THERE

 

 

Over the last several months, I have tasted 46 California Cabs from a wide range of prices. While California produces thousands of Cabs, this sample has lead me to conclude it’s getting harder to find good values in California Cabernet. Still, they are there and I have included 16 in this report. Recommended wines are listed in order of preference in each category.

 

Everyday Drinking

 

I know some of you will be asking, “what about wines under $10?” Well, everyone I tasted in the past year just didn’t make the cut. It is disappointing that solid quality is getting harder to find for less than $20 a bottle. I did find one admirable option in the 2012 William Hill North Coast ($14). It’s a really good value with solid structure and tasty fruit.

 

After that, we quickly are over $20 a bottle. But at least I found some gems for you.

 

2011 Rodney Strong Alexander Valley ($28). This is one of the best values in this report and is a perennial value. Its extravagant black fruits and toasty oak make for a complex wine finishing with refined tannins.

 

2012 Decoy Sonoma County ($25). Lots of dark fruits wrapped in caramel oak. A bit hard and tannic at first but opens up nicely. Will evolve for a few years.

 

2011 Silver Palm North Coast ($22). Quite forceful blackberry, pine and woodsy notes but a lighter, smooth texture

 

2011 Rodney Strong Sonoma County ($20). Nice black fruits and a light earthy note, soft and amiable.

 

Sweet Spot of Quality/Value

 

These wines are definitely a step up, sure in price but importantly also in quality. Yes, we’re now over $30 and even $40 a bottle. But if you are willing to spend more money, these wines will deliver your money’s worth. Further, the wineries listed in this section are ones I have found to be extremely reliable in recent years.

 

2010 Stonestreet “Monument Ridge” ($45). Bursting with beautiful berry fruits accented with touches of spicy herbs, graphite and mocha and a complex fruit/oak/tannin profile. Gorgeous now, it might be even better in five years.

 

2010 Frank Family Napa Valley ($50). Inviting black and red currants, with creamy oak and licorice, a solid structure and layered texture make this all around delicious. Noticeable tannins suggest 5-10 years of further development.

 

2011 Atalon Napa Valley ($35). Opens with intriguing earthy, minty and herbal notes that mix with generous red and black fruits. It is fairly full with a juicy palate finishing on a pleasantly bitter note.

 

2011 Kendall-Jackson “Grand Reserve” ($30). Strong, woodsy-minty-smoky aromas precede rich, blackberry and boysenberry fruit. This continues on the palate gliding along finishing with powdering tannins.

 

2009 Arrowood Sonoma County ($30). Bright cherry, tealeaf and pine scents introduce vibrant red berries, a soft palate, and a finish of fresh tannins.

 

2010 J. Lohr Hilltop ($35). Opens noticeably gravelly and moderately plummy. It’s soft and smooth with succulent fruit and a round finish. Made in an appealing, easy-drinking style.

 

Splurges

 

2009 Duckhorn Howell Mountain ($80). Duckhorn is known for making big, tough, tannic Cabs and this one doesn’t stray too far. Yet, it also reveals an elegance that allows abundant black cherry and currant fruit to emerge along with cocoa and cedar notes. It is inviting now but will drink well for at least ten years.

 

2010 Grgich Hills Napa Valley ($60). Shows a vibrant beam of lively acidity as its core, as is this winery’s style. Around that is built a frame of concentrated cassis and cherry, with hints of earth and dried herbs.  This certified organic and biodynamic wine should please for at least ten years.

 

2008 Dry Creek Endeavour ($65). Big, ripe, with rich oak, deep berry fruit and rich chocolate flavors offset with a loamy note, this one will be at its best in a few years and should have a long future.

 

2010 Duckhorn Napa Valley ($70). Very structured and firm suggesting patience is needed to fully enjoy its already beckoning currant and blackberry fruit, cedar and spice bouquet and lush texture.

 

2010 Cakebread Napa Valley ($60). Enticingly juicy and nicely concentrated red and black fruits are balanced with oak, dried herb and earth notes and finished with fine tannins. This is another one enjoyable now but a candidate for long aging.

 

 

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WINERIES WHO CELEBRATE EARTH DAY EVERY DAY

[Featured Image Courtesy of Benziger]

WINERIES WHO CELEBRATE EARTH DAY EVERY DAY

With the approach of Earth Day, many people and businesses turn their attention to issues concerning the environment, sustainability and the connections between generations. It is no different in the wine world. Actually, for many wineries every day is Earth Day. More and more wineries are committing to sustainable practices as their fundamental business model. So why not drink wines that make a difference by giving back to the environment and society?

 

One of the leaders in this movement is the Benziger Family Winery. At Benziger, sustainability is a family affair with around 24 members who live in and around the Sonoma Mountain winery. The winery was established on an 85-acre estate in Glen Ellen in 1980. Soon after, the family became convinced natural techniques yielded more flavorful, aromatic grapes with more site-specific character. Importantly, they found these practices also improved the health of the estate.

 

So, in 1996, they began converting the property into a biodynamic farm that in 2000 became one of the first Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyards in North America. Today, the family owns and farms four certified biodynamic Sonoma County vineyard estates on 168 acres.

 

The Benziger’s also work with their network of growers to extend their approach, requiring that all growers participate in a sustainability program that outlines standards for areas like soil vitality, biodiversity, water conservation and integrated pest management. Today, every wine crafted by Benziger carries a green farming certification from a third party certifier on its front label – sustainable, organic or biodynamic.

I had an opportunity a few weeks ago to have lunch with Jeff McBride, Benziger’s Vice President of Winemaking, and taste several recent releases. McBride joined the Benziger two years ago after more than three decades of winemaking in Sonoma and Washington. It was a delightful, wide ranging conversation. And, of course, I enjoyed the wines. I suggest you try the following wines (and seek out the many others Benziger produces):

2011 Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon ($20). Inviting aromas of dark fruits – plum, currant and cherry, black olives and herbs, well structured with nice, powdery tannins and a fresh finish.

2010 Sonoma County Merlot ($19). Pleasant aromas of blueberry and blackberry with a touch of spice, similar flavors and a touch of licorice finish with velvety tannins.

2012 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($29). Really nice aromas of black cherry and light touches of earth, silky palate delivers more cherry, mushroom and light spice.

2011 Sonoma County Chardonnay ($16). Loads of tropical fruit aromas accented with stone fruits like pear and a palate lifted with crisp citrus.

2012 North Coast Sauvignon Blanc ($15). Bright citrus – grapefruit and lime – and herbal aromas and flavors make this a perennially delightful Sauvignon Blanc.

 

Cultivate Wines represent the social aspect of the sustainability movement. The brainchild of noted Santa Barbara wine investor Charles Banks and his wife, Ali, this is a wine company dedicated to putting money back into local community projects by donating a portion of all sales. Cultivate gives back 10 cents of every dollar to help fund projects of opportunity and hope in communities across the globe.

 

They also are members of “1 Percent For The Planet,” an alliance of businesses that contribute at least 1 percent of their net annual sales to environmental organizations helping to protect forests, rivers and oceans, make agricultural and energy production more sustainable, get toxics out of the environment, and more.

 

Two good examples of their wines I tasted recently are sourced from Chile.

2011 Cultivate “Wonderlust” Chardonnay-Moscatell ($13). From the Colchagua Valley, Valle Centrale of Chile, the Chardonnay shows bright citrus and tropical fruit. The small amount of moscatell lifts the aromatics and adds weight to the palate. This is the first time I have seen this combination of grapes but it works!

 

2011 Cultivate “Copa Cabana” Cabernet Sauvignon-Carmenère-Syrah ($13). From Curicó, Valle Centrale of Chile, this blend offers juicy red and black fruits, nice accents of spice and a sensual texture.

 

Recent studies sponsored by The Wine Institute indicate that the sustainable, eco-friendly and socially responsible attributes of wine are increasingly important considerations for consumers when making wine purchasing decisions. Producers who many years ago began transitioning to sustainable practices but were reticent to publicize this over concerns about the poor reputation of early “natural wines” now are learning that socially conscious wine consumers are interested in information about sustainable and environmentally friendly practices in wineries and vineyards.

 

So, increasingly, producers are putting seals, logos or other information about sustainable practices on their bottles, often including third-party certification seals/statements to indicate sustainable, organic, or biodynamic practices. And consumers are responding.

 

So, this Earth Day (and beyond) raise a glass of sustainable wine knowing you can drink well while doing good.

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CENTRAL ITALY: SANGIOVESE AND SAGRANTINO ARE CERTAIN TO PLEASE

(Cover Photo: Wikimedia Commons (Matthew Hutchinson)

Montefalco Vineyards

 

Italy is an amazingly varied country and the regions of Tuscany and Umbria are Italy’s heartland, its backbone with the Apennine Mountains running north and south as if the country’s spine.

Tuscany is the most recognizable Italian state to American tourists and wine consumers. The picturesque, hilly countryside that attracts throngs of tourists also is a vinous wonderland. Dozens of grape varieties are grown  but it is sangiovese that dominates seven Chianti subzones. The most widely planted grape in Italy, most agree it reaches its pinnacle in Tuscany.

In general expect black cherry fruit (though various dark berries can show up) and vibrant acidity, with varying elements of earth, forest, herbs, smoke, and spice. With a few notable exceptions, most are medium-bodied and very dry, with a lean, structure finishing with fairly strong tannins. But there are regional variations as different clones are grown under different environments subject to different viticultural and winemaking techniques.

Sangiovese’s best-known incarnation is as the most important component of Chianti. The traditional recipe prescribed blending with various grapes, including white ones. Nowadays the rules have been relaxed and the best wines will be at least three-fourths sangiovese.

Basic Chianti today is much better than the wicker basket stuff that made the wine famous and later infamous in the 1970’s. Since then, improvements in viticulture and winemaking have improved quality considerably. But for a great leap in quality, consumers should turn their attention to Chianti Classico, the specified zone just to the south of Florence stretching to Siena. Wines from this area consistently produce the best Chiantis. Here are some good options from my recent tastings:

Badia a Coltibuono. Badia a Coltibuono (which means Abbey of the Good Harvest) dates to the eleventh century when monks constructed the Abbey and planted the first vineyards. Today, the associated restaurant and cooking school have become world famous and the winery is one of Chianti’s most famous. The 2010 Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico ($17) is a classic Chianti showing aromas of wild cherry, forest floor and clove spice. It’s easy drinking yet delivers admirable density, a tight structure and mouthfeel. Notably, it is made with organically grown sangiovese and canaiolo grapes.

 

Castello di Gabbiano. This is another prominent property that dates from the eleventh century. As seems to be common in Tuscany, the property also includes a restaurant and accommodations. But it is the wines from the estate vineyards that interest us here.

• The 2011 Gabbiano Chianti Classico ($12) is the basic, everyday Chianti. And it is flavorful and easy drinking (have less wood influence) with nice cherry and raspberry fruit plus floral and some spice all delivered with vibrant acidity.

• The 2010 Gabbiano Chianti Classico Riserva ($22) comes only from estate grapes and sees more wood in the winemaking process. This yields more mature aromas and flavors – coffee, forest and toast notes, cinnamon – but still delivers enjoyable plum and black cherry fruit; should improve with age.

• The 2010 Gabbiano Chianti Classico Riserva “Bellezza” ($40) is a different creature. It’s certainly Chianti but is made in what I can only think to describe as a modern style. It’s also made using grapes from a single vineyard. “Bellezza” refers to the beauty of the vineyard and also could describe the wine. Oak notes of vanilla, coffee and toast enhance black cherry and blackberry fruit. The substantial tannins need time to integrate but will reward patience.

 

Selvapiana. In my experience, Chianti Rufina is the most reliable after Chianti Classico of the eight Chianti subzones. It has become a favorite for good value. And Selvapiana is one of the subzone’s best producers. The 2010 Selvapiana Chianti Rufina ($17) is a good example of this. A perfumed wine, with tight yet manageable tannins, its bright cherry, floral, tobacco, spice and earth aromas and flavors deliver satisfaction.

 

Tenuta di Arceno. Arceno is located in an area where winemaking is believed to date back to the Etruscans in the eight century B.C. Today it is owned by California’s formidable Jackson Family Estates and the 2008 Chianti Classico Riserva Strada al Sasso ($35), a single vineyard wine, impresses with intense black cherry fruit accented with licorice, spice, and tobacco.

 

Avignonesi. Elsewhere in Tuscany, nearer Siena, the town of Montepulciano is the source of another sangiovese-based wine – particularly a local variant called “prugnolo gentile.” Traditionally the wine was so prized it was favored by royalty. Hence, the name Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. From one of the best producers in the area, the 2010 Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano ($29) may be the best overall value in this review. Its deep fruit of cherry, raspberry and blackberry, is accented with hints of chocolate, coffee, and spice. With its rich texture and firm tannins bringing balance, it should develop well.

Piccini. But for many connoisseurs it is the area around nearby Montalcino that is the epicenter for production of great sangiovese wines. Here, Brunello di Montalcino, unlike in Chianti, is made of 100 percent sangiovese (the local clone is called brunello) and by law aged two years in oak and an additional three years in bottle. The wines are big, powerful and highly structured, requiring many years to reach their peak. They also are disproportionately priced. Piccini’s 2007 Villa al Cortile ($50) actually is affordable by comparison. Forest and earth notes of mint, coffee, tobacco, minerals, cola, and black pepper join wild berry and currant fruit all lifted by a firm structure and long finish.

Casanova di Neri. Rosso di Montalcino, typically made of sangiovese from younger vines, tends to be lighter and earlier maturing than Brunello. Maybe this is why it’s often described as a “baby Brunello.” Though not labeled as such, the Casanova di Neri 2008 Sant’ Antimo Rosso di Casanova di Neri ($21) is basically a Rosso di Montalcino. It shows some of that black pepper and cola but with more emphasis on fresh fruit in a lighter frame.

No column about Tuscany would be complete without addressing the Super Tuscan phenomena. In the 1970’s innovators like Piero Antinori bucked the Chianti establishment and used grapes like cabernet sauvignon and merlot in their wines – even though they were not allowed to label them Chianti – because they helped make better wine. With the subsequent success of this approach, many others took notice and began making their own versions. The Super Tuscan moniker soon took hold as a descriptor. Now it seems every Chianti producer also makes a Super Tuscan. The wines can be 100% sangiovese or some blend of sangiovese with grapes like cabernet sauvignon, merlot or syrah.

Marchesi Frescobaldi. Two good examples I tasted recently come from this famed Tuscan family with extensive holdings in the region. From Castello di Nipozzano, another well-regarded Chianti Rufina producer, Frescobaldi produces the single vineyard Super Tuscan “Mormoreto” but only in the best years. The 2008 Castello di Nipozzano “Mormoreto” ($75) combines 60% cabernet sauvignon, 25% merlot, 12% cabernet franc and 3% petit verdot aged two years in French oak barrels. It definitely shows its oak along with red fruits and dark plum. Herbal and spice notes join the rich, dense fruit and firm tannins suggest this wine will evolve for several years.

A bit more affordable is the 2009 Tenuta Frescobaldi di Castiglioni Toscana ($25). The Frescobaldi family has held Tenuta di Castiglioni – located southwest of Florence in Val di Pesa – since the 11th century, with wine being produced here since the early 1300s. Today it houses the family’s main production facilities. Documentation indicates this wine is 50% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 10% cabernet franc and 10% sangiovese. I really liked its lively fruit and its easy drinking style. Still, it was held together with a firm structure.

Many travelers consider Umbria – the region south of Tuscany (Florence) and north of Lazio (Rome) – to be a “no man’s land,” fly over country (or train throughcountry). Those who take the time to visit the hill towns of the area learn that is a mistake. It’s Tuscany without the crowds. And when it comes to Italian wine, many wine drinkers make a similar mistake. Certainly, the great reds of Tuscany have earned their fame. But there are vinous gems from Umbria that merit serious attention.

As with Tuscany, wine grapes have been grown here since Roman times and there are some interesting red and white wines but it really is the reds that shine. Especially those from the sagrantino grape, a likely indigenous thick-skinned variety that yields an intensely flavored juice with the potential (in the hands of a skilled winemaker) for bold, long-lived wines.

Until recently, it was little known outside of its home base around the city of Montefalco. But that began to change in the 1970’s when Arnaldo Caprai began to resurrect the grape. By the 1990’s, Arnaldo’s son Marco brought Sagrantino di Montefalco to international acclaim.

Today, Arnaldo Caprai is widely considered the most skilled producer of this wine. And 2007 Arnaldo Caprai “Collepiano” Sagrantino di Montefalco ($60)  is a shining example of how fine these wines can be. The gentle hills and clay-limstone soils of the Collepiano area of production sourced this wine of amazing complexity and depth. Notes of tobacco, brown spices and herbs overlay the black cherry and plum fruit that form its inviting core. It’s intense yet drinks balanced and elegant.

Another good example is the 2007 Tenuta Castelbuono Montefalco Sagrantino ($36). Maybe I shouldn’t have been surprised the Lunelli family of Ferrari Trento Metodo Classico fame has owned this property since 2001. This family knows how to recognize and realize potential for greatness. The wine tends toward a rustic style with slightly tougher tannins and a touch of intriguing bitterness in the finish. This is met with abundant wild berry and some forest notes that are sure to please.

So, if you can’t afford the airfare to taste these wines at their source, just pick up a few at your local wine shop, pour a glass, take a sip, close your eyes, and dream.

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A CORNUCOPIA OF INTERNATIONAL WINES FOR YOUR HOLIDAY GATHERINGS, PART 4

Red Wines

 

In keeping with my usual imperative to broaden my wine horizons and to look for interesting wines from all over the world, especially during the holidays, I present a wide variety of red wine selections for this fourth and final installment of my special holiday recommendations series. By the way, if you are interested in Pinot Noir or Zinfandel, I recently reviewed several samples of these wines here and here.

 

Australia Rhone-style. I recently came across these four excellent Aussies and even though I plan a comprehensive review of Australian wines in the coming months, I decided I couldn’t wait to turn you to them.

 

2011 Yangarra Grenache McLaren Vale Old Vine ($32). Grenache is the main grape in Chateauneuf-du-Pape and even though the terroir is different, the varietal red cherry and raspberry fruit laden with black pepper spice comes through nicely, as does intriguing earthy notes delivered with a lush texture.

 

2010 Yangarra Shiraz McLaren Vale ($25). Known as Syrah most everywhere else, Australian Shiraz has made a big splash in international markets over the last couple decades; so much so that too much average stuff has flooded stores. Thankfully there still are ample supplies of the greatness this grape can achieve in Australia – like this one. It is quite aromatic with dark berry fruit seasoned with meaty and cocoa accents. In the mouth it is flavorful, rich and lively, with a balance of tannin and fruit to age gracefully.

 

 

2010 Two Hands “Gnarly Dudes” Shiraz Barossa Valley ($35). This is nearly as good as the Yangarra, with floral aromas, dark berries and sort of a smoky note. It is another big, rich wine but with sleek tannins and a fresh finish. Earthy spicy notes provide additional interest throughout.

 

2009 Torbreck “The Steading” Barossa Valley ($38). A classic “GSM” – grenache syrah and mourvedre (also sometimes, as in this case, called mataro) – this one is heavy on the grenache to great effect. Lots of red fruits and brown spices excite the opening then join with a rich, flavorful and firm palate that finishes with plenty of friendly tannins.

 

Blends. A winery’s multi-varietal red blend can be a fun alternative for any occasion. Instead of just the character of one variety, these give you a chance to experience the how different aromas and flavors can come together to make a whole that is better than the sum of its parts.

 

2010 Craggy Range “Te Kahu” Gimblett Gravels Vineyard ($22). This merlot dominated Bordeaux-style blend from the Hawkes Bay region of New Zealand just blew me away, especially at the price and given its origins. Deeply fruited with all sorts of plum, cherry and berry aromas and flavors, merged with mineral and spice qualities. Solid structure and medium body, while smooth tannins liven the engaging finish.

 

 

Troublemaker Blend 7 ($20). This is a fun, big fruited blend of syrah, grenache, mourvedre, zinfandel, and petite sirah from Austin Hope, one of the leading producers in Paso Robles. Notes of tobacco, vanilla and meat add further interest to this versatile wine, good for quaffing and comfortable at the table.

 

I also came across a few really friendly priced blends you will find ideal for cocktail parties, as well as large dinners, or even everyday sipping. I’m not talking huge complexity here, or even huge wines for that matter, just tasty, easy drinking enjoyment.

 

  • 2012 HandCraft “Inspiration Red” California ($13) – an eclectic, fruit forward blend of syrah, zinfandel, merlot, malbec & sangiovese

 

  • 2012 Smoking Loon “Red Loonatic” ($8) – syrah, alicante bouschet, petite sirah, zinfandel, tannat, sangiovese, touriga nacional, tempranillo, pinot noir…wow!

 

  • Spin the Bottle Red Wine ($11) – cabernet sauvignon, syrah and merlot make good companions

 

Miscellaneous Reds

 

2011 Ventisquero “Grey” Carmenere Single Block ($24). Ventisquero’s “Grey” line features all individual blocks from specific vineyards. This Carmenere hails from Block 5 of the Trinidad Vineyard in the Maipo Valley. Loads of black fruits, an earthy note and a touch of creamy oak flow through its aromas and flavors.

 

2009 Pertinace Nebbiolo ($18). It’s been fashionable for years now among wine critics to treat wine coops with disrespect. The conceit is usually that a collective of growers inevitably succumbs to the lowest common denominator, while individual producers are the only ones truly dedicated to excellence. Well, Cantina Pertinace, a cooperative of of twelve winegrowers in the region of Barbaresco, clearly proves this wrong. They produce an enviable line of Barolo, Barbaresco, Babera, Arneis and this enjoyable Nebiolo. Try this taste of the region for less than half the cost of Barolo.

 

2011 Alamos Malbec ($13). Alamos is the result of a collaboration between the great Catena family of Argentina and the great Gallo family of California. Dabs of syrah and bonarda enliven the malbec grown in the higher elevations of Mendoza. The result is

soft and fruity, easy drinking and a great value.

 

2010 Matchbook Tempranillo Dunnigan Hills ($15). Tempranillo, the grape responsible for most of Spain’s finest wines, has always been a challenge to grow successfully in California. But Matchbook seems to have figured out how to make an enjoyable, affordable wine out of it, with touches of tannat and graciano. Aged almost in a combination of American, French and Hungarian oak, this wine exhibits brown spice and cedar to compliment black and red fruits.

 

2011 Stickybeak Toscano IGT ($20). A surprising new collaboration between Australian wine importer Old Bridge Cellars and Italian vintner Alberto Antonini, this wine is a flavorful Sangiovese (with a touch of merlot and, from nearby Maremma, a bit of syrah) from the Tuscan commune of Cerreto Guidi.

 

2011 J. Lohr Estates Valdiguié Monterey ($10). This is a fun wine from a grape primarily grown in the Languedoc-Roussillon. It’s cultivated sparsely in California but J. Lohr has fashioned a grapey, interesting wine using partial carbonic maceration that simulates the drinking experience of a Beaujolais or maybe a light Pinot Noir.

 

2012 Monte Velho Red ($10). This time of year, I’m especially fond of Portuguese table wine. While Portugal is most famous for its great sweet Porto, table wine from the country has become a go-to choice for good values with authentic character.

Portuguese producer Heredade do Esporao has fashioned this excellent value from equal amounts of the indigenous grapes trincadeira, aragonez and castelao.  It’s pretty straightforward but is solid and firm, with tasty fruit.