(Cover Photo: Wikimedia Commons (Matthew Hutchinson)
Italy is an amazingly varied country and the regions of Tuscany and Umbria are Italy’s heartland, its backbone with the Apennine Mountains running north and south as if the country’s spine.
Tuscany is the most recognizable Italian state to American tourists and wine consumers. The picturesque, hilly countryside that attracts throngs of tourists also is a vinous wonderland. Dozens of grape varieties are grown but it is sangiovese that dominates seven Chianti subzones. The most widely planted grape in Italy, most agree it reaches its pinnacle in Tuscany.
In general expect black cherry fruit (though various dark berries can show up) and vibrant acidity, with varying elements of earth, forest, herbs, smoke, and spice. With a few notable exceptions, most are medium-bodied and very dry, with a lean, structure finishing with fairly strong tannins. But there are regional variations as different clones are grown under different environments subject to different viticultural and winemaking techniques.
Sangiovese’s best-known incarnation is as the most important component of Chianti. The traditional recipe prescribed blending with various grapes, including white ones. Nowadays the rules have been relaxed and the best wines will be at least three-fourths sangiovese.
Basic Chianti today is much better than the wicker basket stuff that made the wine famous and later infamous in the 1970’s. Since then, improvements in viticulture and winemaking have improved quality considerably. But for a great leap in quality, consumers should turn their attention to Chianti Classico, the specified zone just to the south of Florence stretching to Siena. Wines from this area consistently produce the best Chiantis. Here are some good options from my recent tastings:
Badia a Coltibuono. Badia a Coltibuono (which means Abbey of the Good Harvest) dates to the eleventh century when monks constructed the Abbey and planted the first vineyards. Today, the associated restaurant and cooking school have become world famous and the winery is one of Chianti’s most famous. The 2010 Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico ($17) is a classic Chianti showing aromas of wild cherry, forest floor and clove spice. It’s easy drinking yet delivers admirable density, a tight structure and mouthfeel. Notably, it is made with organically grown sangiovese and canaiolo grapes.
Castello di Gabbiano. This is another prominent property that dates from the eleventh century. As seems to be common in Tuscany, the property also includes a restaurant and accommodations. But it is the wines from the estate vineyards that interest us here.
• The 2011 Gabbiano Chianti Classico ($12) is the basic, everyday Chianti. And it is flavorful and easy drinking (have less wood influence) with nice cherry and raspberry fruit plus floral and some spice all delivered with vibrant acidity.
• The 2010 Gabbiano Chianti Classico Riserva ($22) comes only from estate grapes and sees more wood in the winemaking process. This yields more mature aromas and flavors – coffee, forest and toast notes, cinnamon – but still delivers enjoyable plum and black cherry fruit; should improve with age.
• The 2010 Gabbiano Chianti Classico Riserva “Bellezza” ($40) is a different creature. It’s certainly Chianti but is made in what I can only think to describe as a modern style. It’s also made using grapes from a single vineyard. “Bellezza” refers to the beauty of the vineyard and also could describe the wine. Oak notes of vanilla, coffee and toast enhance black cherry and blackberry fruit. The substantial tannins need time to integrate but will reward patience.
Selvapiana. In my experience, Chianti Rufina is the most reliable after Chianti Classico of the eight Chianti subzones. It has become a favorite for good value. And Selvapiana is one of the subzone’s best producers. The 2010 Selvapiana Chianti Rufina ($17) is a good example of this. A perfumed wine, with tight yet manageable tannins, its bright cherry, floral, tobacco, spice and earth aromas and flavors deliver satisfaction.
Tenuta di Arceno. Arceno is located in an area where winemaking is believed to date back to the Etruscans in the eight century B.C. Today it is owned by California’s formidable Jackson Family Estates and the 2008 Chianti Classico Riserva Strada al Sasso ($35), a single vineyard wine, impresses with intense black cherry fruit accented with licorice, spice, and tobacco.
Avignonesi. Elsewhere in Tuscany, nearer Siena, the town of Montepulciano is the source of another sangiovese-based wine – particularly a local variant called “prugnolo gentile.” Traditionally the wine was so prized it was favored by royalty. Hence, the name Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. From one of the best producers in the area, the 2010 Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano ($29) may be the best overall value in this review. Its deep fruit of cherry, raspberry and blackberry, is accented with hints of chocolate, coffee, and spice. With its rich texture and firm tannins bringing balance, it should develop well.
Piccini. But for many connoisseurs it is the area around nearby Montalcino that is the epicenter for production of great sangiovese wines. Here, Brunello di Montalcino, unlike in Chianti, is made of 100 percent sangiovese (the local clone is called brunello) and by law aged two years in oak and an additional three years in bottle. The wines are big, powerful and highly structured, requiring many years to reach their peak. They also are disproportionately priced. Piccini’s 2007 Villa al Cortile ($50) actually is affordable by comparison. Forest and earth notes of mint, coffee, tobacco, minerals, cola, and black pepper join wild berry and currant fruit all lifted by a firm structure and long finish.
Casanova di Neri. Rosso di Montalcino, typically made of sangiovese from younger vines, tends to be lighter and earlier maturing than Brunello. Maybe this is why it’s often described as a “baby Brunello.” Though not labeled as such, the Casanova di Neri 2008 Sant’ Antimo Rosso di Casanova di Neri ($21) is basically a Rosso di Montalcino. It shows some of that black pepper and cola but with more emphasis on fresh fruit in a lighter frame.
No column about Tuscany would be complete without addressing the Super Tuscan phenomena. In the 1970’s innovators like Piero Antinori bucked the Chianti establishment and used grapes like cabernet sauvignon and merlot in their wines – even though they were not allowed to label them Chianti – because they helped make better wine. With the subsequent success of this approach, many others took notice and began making their own versions. The Super Tuscan moniker soon took hold as a descriptor. Now it seems every Chianti producer also makes a Super Tuscan. The wines can be 100% sangiovese or some blend of sangiovese with grapes like cabernet sauvignon, merlot or syrah.
Marchesi Frescobaldi. Two good examples I tasted recently come from this famed Tuscan family with extensive holdings in the region. From Castello di Nipozzano, another well-regarded Chianti Rufina producer, Frescobaldi produces the single vineyard Super Tuscan “Mormoreto” but only in the best years. The 2008 Castello di Nipozzano “Mormoreto” ($75) combines 60% cabernet sauvignon, 25% merlot, 12% cabernet franc and 3% petit verdot aged two years in French oak barrels. It definitely shows its oak along with red fruits and dark plum. Herbal and spice notes join the rich, dense fruit and firm tannins suggest this wine will evolve for several years.
A bit more affordable is the 2009 Tenuta Frescobaldi di Castiglioni Toscana ($25). The Frescobaldi family has held Tenuta di Castiglioni – located southwest of Florence in Val di Pesa – since the 11th century, with wine being produced here since the early 1300s. Today it houses the family’s main production facilities. Documentation indicates this wine is 50% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 10% cabernet franc and 10% sangiovese. I really liked its lively fruit and its easy drinking style. Still, it was held together with a firm structure.
Many travelers consider Umbria – the region south of Tuscany (Florence) and north of Lazio (Rome) – to be a “no man’s land,” fly over country (or train throughcountry). Those who take the time to visit the hill towns of the area learn that is a mistake. It’s Tuscany without the crowds. And when it comes to Italian wine, many wine drinkers make a similar mistake. Certainly, the great reds of Tuscany have earned their fame. But there are vinous gems from Umbria that merit serious attention.
As with Tuscany, wine grapes have been grown here since Roman times and there are some interesting red and white wines but it really is the reds that shine. Especially those from the sagrantino grape, a likely indigenous thick-skinned variety that yields an intensely flavored juice with the potential (in the hands of a skilled winemaker) for bold, long-lived wines.
Until recently, it was little known outside of its home base around the city of Montefalco. But that began to change in the 1970’s when Arnaldo Caprai began to resurrect the grape. By the 1990’s, Arnaldo’s son Marco brought Sagrantino di Montefalco to international acclaim.
Today, Arnaldo Caprai is widely considered the most skilled producer of this wine. And 2007 Arnaldo Caprai “Collepiano” Sagrantino di Montefalco ($60) is a shining example of how fine these wines can be. The gentle hills and clay-limstone soils of the Collepiano area of production sourced this wine of amazing complexity and depth. Notes of tobacco, brown spices and herbs overlay the black cherry and plum fruit that form its inviting core. It’s intense yet drinks balanced and elegant.
Another good example is the 2007 Tenuta Castelbuono Montefalco Sagrantino ($36). Maybe I shouldn’t have been surprised the Lunelli family of Ferrari Trento Metodo Classico fame has owned this property since 2001. This family knows how to recognize and realize potential for greatness. The wine tends toward a rustic style with slightly tougher tannins and a touch of intriguing bitterness in the finish. This is met with abundant wild berry and some forest notes that are sure to please.
So, if you can’t afford the airfare to taste these wines at their source, just pick up a few at your local wine shop, pour a glass, take a sip, close your eyes, and dream.