Something about the cold weather and holidays always gets me in the mood for dessert wines and thinking about which wine books I want to give or get for Christmas. In this posting, I share a few ideas for this year’s season. Americans love to drink, alcoholic beverages that is. But we have deeply conflicted attitudes about alcohol. This love/hate relationship is at the core of The Prohibition Hangover: Alcohol in America from Demon Rum to Cult Cabernet by Garrett Peck (Rutgers University Press, $27). Peck explores the contradictory history of alcohol in America – from the Temperance movement to Prohibition to the binge drinking present – placing it within the broader context of social, religious, political, health and economic concerns. He concludes this comprehensive, well-documented account applying the lessons of Prohibition to the variety of alcohol-related issues facing us yet today. These include thoughtful considerations on such remnants as control states, blue laws, arcane shipping laws, the obligation of parents to instill responsible drinking values, drunk driving, binge drinking, and balancing the health effects of alcohol with the health detriments of excessive drinking.
If you are a Bordeaux fan or just want to learn more about this most influential wine region, What Price Bordeaux? by Benjamin Lewin (Vendange Press, $35) is a must read. Lewin provides copious detail on Bordeaux’s history, geography and economics. He analyzes the enduring impact of the Classification of 1855 relative to “terroir,” the “branding” of chateau, the region’s class structure, and prices. Other topics covered include the influence of consultants and critics, changing wine styles, global warming, futures, corporate ownership and a thought provoking reclassification. This reclassification and its analysis of the the original classification is the most enlightening I have read (and there have been countless such attempts in recent decades). Commendably Lewin clearly loves Bordeaux but is willing to look at it with a clear eye and challenge assumptions and vested interests, all to the better for consumers.
And to drink while I read these fine books? I crave a little dessert wine, those naturally sweet wines balanced with refreshing acidity so the wine isn’t cloying. The best are viscous and luscious, yet elegant and. They combine the richness of intense fruit with the elegance from low alcohol. Note all prices are for half bottles unless otherwise stated. Late Harvest. Probably the most common type of dessert wine results from grapes left on the vine past normal harvest until they become super ripe, concentrating the sugars. The resulting wine is lush with, pure fruit. A unique example of this is the 2007 Camilo Castilla “Montecristo” Moscatel Blanco Dulce, from a selection of small grain muscat grapes from a 145 year-old estate.
Under certain conditions, botrytis cinerea (the “noble rot”) dehydrates the grapes, concentrates the sugars, and imparts its own honey, herbal and spice characteristics. German Auslese and French Sauternes are the most notable representatives of this style but fine versions also are available from California, like the 2006 J. Lohr White Riesling Arroyo Seco and 2006 Cambria Viognier Tepesquet Vineyard. And I found a fine value in the 2008 d’Arenberg “Stump Jump” Sticky Chardonnay from Australia in certain cases, producers may leave grapes to hang on the vine until they freeze, thus making “Eiswein” in Germany and “Icewine” in Canada. Current releases from Inniskillin, Canada’s original Icewine producer, include a 2006 Vidal Gold, 2007 Riesling, and 2007 Cabernet Franc. These are luxury wines at luxury prices but they certainly will make any special occasion unforgettable. Jackson-Triggs, another highly regarded Canadian producer, offers a fine value in the 2007 Proprietor’s Reserve Vidal. Rather than wait for Nature, some producers actually freeze the grapes themselves after harvest. One of the best is of this style is the unctuous 2008 Joseph Phelps “Eisrebe” made from the scheurebe grape.
Fortified Wine. “Port” from Portugal is very sweet, high alcohol (fortified with brandy), and bursting with red and black fruit flavors. Pre-aged Tawny Ports, like Dow’s, Graham’s or Warre’s “Ten Year Tawny” and “Twenty Year Tawny” are ethereal. While, not a Port but made in that style, Charbay Pomegranate Dessert Wine from 100% organically grown fruit and fortified with Pinot Noir Brandy is a delightful alternative. Arrested Development. Moscato d’Asti from Italy’s Piedmont is slightly effervescent wine made from the partially fermented juice of white muscat grapes. It is sweet but not too, delightfully aromatic, and delicate on the palate. As a bonus, its low alcohol (5-6%) makes the wine equally comfortable as an aperitif or a dessert wine. I found a recently tasted 2007 Saracco is a perfect example.
So, get yourself a copy of these books, grab a glass of dessert wine and enjoy the holiday season.