While Chianti is the best-known Tuscan wine in the U.S., a little attention reveals a wide variety of other fine wines from Italy’s best-known wine region. In central Tuscany where the Chianti zone extends roughly from Florence south to Siena, there are other highly regarded denominations north of Florence and south of Siena. And then there is the “new frontier” of the Maremma in the western part of the region along the Tyrrhenian Sea coast. Let’s visit a few.
Most of the wines, though, still use sangiovese as their foundation. One of Italy’s many indigenous grape varieties, sangiovese truly shines in Tusany. Typically, quality wines made with sangiovese exhibit deep, bright cherry aromas and flavors with firm, dry structure, and earthy qualities. Generally, it is blended with other native varieties, though increasingly Bordeaux grapes are part of the mix.
This is the case in so-called “Super Tuscans”, which actually originated in Chianti in the 1970’s but are most associated with the Maremma along the Tyrrhenian Sea., especially the Bolgheri subzone. However, cabernet sauvignon has been cultivated in Carmignano (about a dozen miles northwest of Florence) since the 1700s. In order to qualify as a Carmignano wine today, the blend must include at least 50 percent sangiovese and 10-20% cabernet sauvignon or cabernet franc. Small amounts of canaiolo nero, and the white grapes trebbiano and malvasia, are permitted.
About the same distance east of Florence, within the Chianti Rufina zone lies the tiny Pomino denomination (actually within the Chianti Rufina subzone). Recognized for its quality as far back as the 1700’s by the Medici, its high elevation vineyards typically produce brighter toned fruit than elsewhere in Tuscany. Its Rosso (red) wines require a minimum 50% Sangiovese and can contain up to 50% Merlot or Pinot Nero, and a maximum of 25% other red grapes.
The commune of Montepulciano southeast of Siena is home to Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Its name reflects its popularity with royalty over the centuries. The wines must contain at least 70 percent sangiovese (known locally as prugnolo gentile) blended with other local varieties like canaiolo nero, and mammolo.
West of Montepulciano, the coastal vineyards of the southern Maremma are drawing recent attention for Morellino di Scansano. Named for the village of Scansano and the local name for sangiovese (the wine must contain at least 85%), growing conditions here favor supple, inviting wines and fine sangiovese values.
Finally, the most famous part of the Maremma is up the coast in the Bolgheri zone. Also just a few miles from the coast, Bolgheri is home to such famous Super Tuscans as Tenuta San Guido’s Sassicaia, Tenuta Guado al Tasso, and Ornellaia.
And now the wines:
CARMIGNANO
Tenuta di Capezzana, the exemplary producer of Carmignano, is located 12 miles northwest of Florence in the Carmignano subzone. Its vines are farmed organically and, all of these wines are fermented with native indigenous yeasts. Its history dates to the 14th century and was one of the first designated wine regions in the world (by the Medici) in 1716.
- 2018 Barco Reale di Carmignano DOC ($18) Capezzana’s entry-level bottling, a younger version of Carmignano named after the historic Medici property known as “Barco Reale” – meaning Royal Property – which was established in 1626. 75% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Canaiolo, and 5% Cabernet Franc
- 2016 Villa di Capezzana Carmignano DOC ($30) With vintages dating back to 1925 in their cellar, Villa di Capezzana is the flagship wine of the Tenuta di Capezzana estate and represents the best of Carmignano as a region. 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon
- 2013 Ghiaie della Furba Toscana IGT ($51) Made only in the best vintages, this Bordeaux-style blend was first created in 1979 from vineyards planted along the pebble (Ghiaie) rich soils of the Furba stream planted with clippings from Château Lafite. 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Syrah, and 25% Merlot
- 2015 Trefiano Carmignano Riserva DOCG ($59) Made in only the best vintages, the grapes come from five hectares of vineyards that surround the historic Villa di Trefiano located in the Carmignano DOCG. 80% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Canaiolo
POMINO ROSSO
2016 Fattoria Selvapiana “Villa Petrognano” ($21) Fattoria Selvapiana, the esteemed Chianti Rufina estate that farms its vineyards organically, contracts to produce wine from vineyards at Villa Petrognano, also are farmed organically. 60% sangiovese, 20% merlot and 20% cabernet sauvignon combine for a lithe, smoky wine balanced with lively red fruits.
VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO
Relatively young by Tuscan standards (sixty years), Poliziano has established itself as a leader in Montepulciano. Farming its vineyards organically, its wines allow consumers to experience the range of Montepulciano terroir.
- 2019 Rosso di Montepulciano ($17) Nice entry-level wine meant for earlier consumption and everyday drinking, this is made up of 80% Sangiovese and 20% Merlot and is aged almost entirely in stainless-steel tanks to preserve the freshness and vivacity of the wine.
- 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano ($30) offers bright fruit, earthy, toasty notes and polished tannins. From younger vines and with 20% merlot, it’s softer, yet sports a juicy and fresh palate.
- 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano “Asinone” ($63) A limited production wine (95% – 100% sangiovese, depending on the vintage), from Poliziano’s best vineyard, it is rich, deep, succulent, vibrant and concentrated fruit; firmly structured with vanilla, spice, leather, tobacco, and herbal notes.
MORELLINO DI SCANSANO
Considered by some as the new frontier of Maremma, many established Tuscan producers are founding outposts in this southwest corner of Tuscany. Such as Poliziano, which began planting vineyards here about twenty years ago.
2018 Lohsa Morellino di Scansano ($16) from owners of Poliziano; farmed organically; 85% morellino enhanced with 15% of the local grape ciliegiolo, its ripe fruit is lightly herbaceous with forest notes, firm yet lush. Fine value. owned by Poliziano; farmed organically;
BOLGHERI
2019 Le Volte dell’Ornellaia ($34) The attractively priced entry level wine of the super expensive Super Tuscan Ornellaia, Le Volte is a juicy blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon and sangiovese. It expresses lively fruit of plum and red berries with suggesttions of flowers and herbs. It is nicley balanced and well filled drinking with friendly tannins for an inviting mouthfeel.
2107 Castello del Terriccio “Tassinaia” ($34) About fifteen miles north of Ornellaia, this lesser known but outstanding producer of Super Tuscan wines, planted its vineyards four miles from the coast in the 1980s (though the property has a thousand-year-long history) with cuttings from some of France’s top estates. Castello del Terriccio’s flagship, Lupicaia, comes at over $100 a bottle. Tassinaia – a blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot in almost equal amounts – is more accessible. It offers inviting red fruits, earthy notes, and a firm but fresh texture.