Sparkling wine is so popular some version of it is made in almost every country that produces wine. Although sparkling wine is appropriate for any occasion any time of year, the holidays are its prime time. Whether for a celebration or to drink with your meal, these fine bubbles from are just the ticket. All wines here are nonvintage unless otherwise noted.
Italy has a long history of producing sparkling wines from traditional Champagne grapes (chardonnay and pinot noir) using the Champagne Method (the secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle). Such wines are labeled “Metodo Classico”. It may be surprising to many but the Piemonte, justly famous for its red wines, is also a source of fine Metodo Classico. Especially the Alta Langa denomination, where they have been doing this since the 1850s. Enrico Serafino, established over 140 years ago, produces fine reds but is best known as a specialist in high quality Metodo Classico. One the winery’s best is the 2017 “Oudeis” Alta Langa Brut ($27), named after Odysseus, 80% pinot nero (pinot noir), 20% chardonnay, is a fantastic value with dramatic apple, yeasty notes, and impressive structure. The 100 percent pinot nero 2016 Brut Rosé ($28), equally enticing, offers a sophisticated, lightly toasty experience.
In France, there is crémant, bubbly from other regions. I particularly like Crémant d’Alsace. A region better known for amazing rieslings and gewurztraminers, its Crémant more often uses the classic Champagne varieties – pinot noir and chardonnay – though pinot blanc also is common, and pinot gris and riesling may make it into some blends. A good example is the Lucien Albrecht Brut ($23). From a winery that dates to 1698 and was a pioneer in the establishment of the first Alsace Crémants about fifty years ago, this blend of estate grown pinot blanc and auxerrois is distinguished by a delicate, round palate bursting notes of apples, peaches, and apricots plus a suggestion of salinity.
Méthode Cap Classique is a creative way of classifying South African sparkling wine made in the traditional Champagne Method. MCCs often use traditional Champagne varieties, as well as more signature South African grapes like chenin blanc. These are up and coming bubbly that deserve your attention. Graham Beck arguably is the best producer. A good example is its nonvintage Brut ($29), nearly equal parts chardonnay and pinot noir, it is crisp with intense lemon wrapped in a toasty, creamy blanket.
A new source for me (and probably for you), Austrian Sekt is a delightful surprise. The Hillinger winery farms organically in the Burgenland, unofficially known as the red wine quarter of Austria. Its Secco ($22) is a rose of at least 85% pinot noir produced by the “tank method” (also known as the Charmat method) in which the secondary fermentation takes place in stainless tanks. For this wine, the process yielded juicy red cherries with a hint of cream and a touch of sweetness. While Austrian Sekt has been made since 1842, the Malat winery produced the first Austrian estate bottled Sekt in 1976 in the Kremstal on the south bank of the Danube River, just an hour from Vienna. Its Brut Nature Reserve ($56) is predominantly chardonnay with pinot noir produced by the traditional method. It offers bright citrus, apple and pear with yeasty, nutty and brioche aromas.
Sparkling wine has increasingly found a place in the portfolios of California wineries. The best follow the Champagne formula. Here are six fine choices.
Frank Family Vineyards in Napa Valley has produced sparkling wine since its founding in 1993, continuing the tradition of the previous owner Hanns Kornell Champagne Cellars, which occupied the historic winery building (the original Larkmead Winery) from 1958 to 1992. Its 2015 Blanc de Blancs ($55) is 100% Chardonnay sourced from the Lewis Vineyard in Carneros. It’s bright citrus and apple is complimented with toasty and luscious qualities. The 2016 Brut Rosé ($55) also from the Lewis Vineyard, is an elegant blend of 59% pinot noir and 21% chardonnay with solid structure and succulent red berries accented with minerals and toast.
Established in the Napa Valley in 1969, Cuvaison was an early pioneer of the Carneros region. Benefitting from the cooling effects of San Pablo Bay and sustainable farming practices, its estate bottled Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays have become highly regarded. And now its sparkling wines impress. The 2017 Brut Rosé ($50), a blend of 65% chardonnay and 35% pinot noir has vibrant raspberry and pink grapefruit a nicely balanced rich and luscious character.
Part of the Duckhorn portfolio of prestige wines, Goldeneye is a specialist of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Anderson Valley. Now, they also produce impressive sparklers, like the 2018 Brut Rose ($65) delivering intense cherry and strawberry with pleasant yeasty notes.
The Bacigalupi family has grown some of the most prized Russian River Valley pinot noir and chardonnay grapes for nearly fifty years. They also produce their own wines like the 2017 “Brillante” Blanc de Noirs ($74), which is equal parts both grapes. It impresses with juicy strawberry, citrus and creamy notes with a wonderful texture.
Based in the Arroyo Grande area of California’s Central coast, Laetitia has made some of the state’s best value sparkling wines since 1982. Its fresh Brut Rose ($25), made with estate grown pinot noir and chardonnay, serves up pretty red fruits
In Oregon’s Willamette Valley, Argyle, one of Oregon’s top Pinot Noir and Chardonnay producers, also has been its premier sparkling wine maker since its founding in 1987. The 2017 Brut ($35) is majority chardonnay with pinot noir and pinot meunier showing richness with a juicy lemon custard character. The 2016 Argyle Brut Knudsen Vineyard ($50) is special. It delivers intense, tight citrus and stone fruits, with toasty and light spice notes. It is lively and lush texture.
Finally, if your preference is Champagne, I have two special bottles for you from Laurent-Perrier, a prestigious house founded in 1812. Its Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature ($100) is sourced from the finest chardonnay vineyards, (grapes grown in both the Côte des Blancs and the Montagne de Reims). Its luxurious texture is complemented with crisp structure and complexity. Very dry, fresh citrus and apple qualities are balanced with nutty, toasty elements. The Cuvée Rosé ($100), 100% pinot noir, offers wonderful cherry and strawberry with hints of herb and spice. The palate is elegant, yet structured, richness yet delicate.
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