CHILEAN RED WINES: QUALITY AND VALUE, VINOUS DIVERSITY AND BIODIVERSITY

Chile long has had a reputation as a reliable source of good value wines, mostly for tasty, affordable Cabernet Sauvignons and Sauvignon Blancs, and more recently also for Carmenere, Chardonnay, Bordeaux-style blends and Pinot Noir. While this remains true, Chile is making a concerted effort to position itself as a premium wine producer and a world leader in sustainability. Its wine industry has widely adopted one of the most ambitious sustainability codes including standards for human rights and social issues along with a commitment to continuous improvement. 

Consider Cabernet Sauvignon, the most widely planted red variety credited with putting Chile on the world stage in the 1970s (though it’s been grown there since the 1800s). Quality and prices cover all levels but are most enticing at moderate price points. 

The most significant cabernet sauvignon growing regions are the Maipo and Colchagua valleys. Maipo, surrounding the capital city of Santiago, is Chile’s original commercial wine region, boasting a core of historic vineyards. Colchagua, south of Santiago, has more recently attracted investment from around the world leading some to call it Chile’s Napa Valley. 

Concha y Toro, Chile’s largest wine company and one of the largest producers in the world delivers an amazing level of quality the variety and volume. It also is a world leader in sustainable viticulture focused on reducing its carbon footprint in all areas of production. Add that Concha y Toro is a certified B Corporation, which recognizes companies around the world that meet the highest standards of environmental management, governance and social performance.

The three Concha y Toro wines (in order of preference): 

2018 Marques de Casa Concha Maipo ($22) notable freshness, rich dark fruit, herbal notes, nicely integrated wood 

2019 Gran Reserva Serie Ribeiras Colchagua ($17) single vineyard, lively, luscious fruit, toasty, herbal accents, refined tannins. 

2019 Gran Reserva ($15) fine entry-level value, blend of multiple vineyard sources

The best of the rest (in order of preference):

2017 Viña Aquitania Lazuli Maipo Alto ($40) selection of best estate vines, juicy, bold red fruits, forest notes, rich texture, friendly tannins 

2019 Lapostolle Cuvée Alexandre Colchagua Aplta ($25) pure berry fruit, savory, mineral, good acidity

2018 Los Vascos Cromas Gran Reserva Colchagua ($22), fresh plum, forest, spicy herb, dry 

2018 Maquis Gran Reserva Colchagua ($20), dried red fruit, crisp, savory, tannic finish

2018 Cordillera Reserva Especial Maipo ($20) succulent berries, leather, toast, soft texture 

2018 TerraNoble Gran Reserva Colchagua ($20) juicy plum, berry, elegant, structured  

2016 Echeverria Limited Edition Maipo ($25), intense fruit, mint, elegant, dusty tannins 

Chile has become increasingly recognized for its high quality, good value Cabernet Sauvignons and Sauvignon Blancs. But this 2700 mile long nation is much more than that. With diverse geography and climate conditions, wineries excel with a multiplicity of grapes. 

And Chile’s wine industry has committed to pursuing sustainability practices, including developing a sustainability code for wineries to adopt. The wineries below exemplify that commitment. 

Koyle (KOO-lay): Family owned since 1885, farms certified biodynamic vineyards in Los Lingues region, Alto Colchagua at the foot of the Andes. The winery also has installed solar panels which harvest 40% of the energy used. 

Viu Manent: Family-owned since 1935, the winery has committed to a comprehensive set of sustainability practices, including solar plants, a biodiversity protection program, recycling program, corporate responsibility and for food safety and vegan certifications.

Maquis: Originally owned by Jesuits, then the same family for close to 100 years. Centered around single vineyard estate wines. Maquis has promoted biodiversity and significantly reduced electrical consumption and liquified gas requirements using an energy recovery system.

Cono Sur: A Pinot Noir specialist organized around sustainable principles, including biodiversity and B Corporation status. Its certified organic vineyards span coastal valleys from Aconcagua Valley to Bio-Bio Valley. Its operations are carbon neutral. 

Emiliana: With a claim to being one of the world’s largest producers of organic and biodynamic wines. The winery also supports organic vegetable gardens for its employees and at local schools. Its corporate social responsibility pledge means business practices that incorporate respect for the organization’s workers, neighboring communities, and the environment.

Tarapacá: Farmed since 1874 in Isla de Maipo; focused on restoring the natural environmental balance and supporting biodiversity of the estate’s certified organic vineyards by planting native trees and shrubs and reconnecting the biological corridors. 

The wines:

Carmenere: 2019 Viña Koyle Gran Reserva ($17) indigenous yeasts, very aromatic, intense, welcoming dark fruit, cooking spice, mint, mocha, mineral notes, polished tannins

Malbec: 2019 Viu Manent Secreto Gran Reserva “Secreto” ($15) meaning up to 15% of undisclosed grapes; bold red berries, fresh herbs, refined palate

Cabernet Franc: 2018 Viña Maquis Gran Reserva ($24) ripe, minty, dry, abundant tannins 

Pinot Noir: 2019 Cono Sur Chile ($12) fine entry-level value; juicy raspberry, strawberry, crisp, elegant, clean; 2018 Bicicleta ($12) even better, fresh black cherry, plum; 2018 20 Barrels Limited Edition ($25) classic cherry, earthy mushroom, baking spice, firm tannins

Blend: 2018 Emiliana Coyam ($35) organic and biodynamic grapes; mostly syrah and carmenere (cabernet sauvignon, carignan, malbec, garnacha, tempranillo, petit verdot and mourvedre); full red fruits, herbs, mint, solid frame, minerality 

Blend: 2018 Viña Tarapacá Gran Reserva ($20) organic cabernet franc, syrah, carmenere, merlot, cabernet sauvignon; ripe dark fruit, black pepper, fine tannins 

NOTE: Featured image is courtesy of Wines of Chile

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