Spain and Portugal share a remarkable landscape, the Iberian Peninsula, home to some of the most interesting wine grapes and fascinating wines.
Spain has one of the world’s most expansive wine cultures with notable vineyard areas and distinctive native grapes reflecting enormous wine diversity in every region of the country.
Arguably the most famous region in Spain is Rioja located in the Ebro River Valley in north central Spain. In view of the Sierra de Cantabria Mountains, its vineyards are blanketed with tempranillo vines, Spain’s most planted red grape. Here, the variety typically exhibits cherry, black and red berries, and savory notes of tobacco and spice. It sometimes is blended with small amounts of native garnacha, mazuela, or graciano and the best are rich, complex wines. Prices range from every day to collectible but Rioja is a good value in all categories.
Bodegas Montecillo, one of the pioneering wineries in the Rioja with 150 years of operation. Not surprisingly, its wines are more traditional in style, particularly with longer aging before release to develop more mature, complex wines. But the winery also employs modern practices that help maintain freshness and fruit.
- 2017 Crianza ($12) vibrant, easygoing, touches of oak and spice
- 2013 Reserva ($18) smoky, elegant, dense fruit, suggestion of cinnamon, silky
Ramón Bilbao, established in 1924, produces a more modern, bold style largely due to maturing in smaller oak barrels. Its 2017 Crianza ($19) is fresh with hints of oak and dusty tannins. The 2015 Reserva ($27) shows vanilla notes, solid fruit and good acidity. The 2016 Limited Edition ($27) is the “second wine” to Bilbao’s old vine signature wine; fruit forward, toasty, earthy, with spicy oak.
Ramón Bilbao, established in Haro in the heart of Rioja Alta in 1924, produces a more modern, fresh style of wine focused on terroir, site-specific vineyards and the pursuit of innovation. Sustainability is also at the heart of the winery’s philosophy. Certified by the Wineries for Climate Protection organization, Ramón Bilbao has already reached its target in the four basic pillars of sustainability: reduction of greenhouse gases, energy efficiency, water management and reduction of waste.
- 2017 Crianza ($19) fresh with hints of pepper, tobacco and leather, fairly oaky and smoky with dusty tannins
- 2015 Reserva ($27) a more modern style due to maturing in smaller oak barrels; notes of vanilla traces of tobacco, smoke, good acidity and, fine tannins and a soft texture savory sour note
- 2016 Limited Edition ($27) technically a Crianza, this is better thought of as the “second wine” of Mirto, Bilbao’s old vine signature wine; fruit forward, toasty, earthy, chocolate, hints of vanilla and oak spice
Portugal’s Douro Valley is world renowned for its dramatically sloping hillsides and terraced vineyards, and especially the Port wines produced there. This fortified (with brandy) red dessert wine comes in several styles but typically is high alcohol and bursting with red and black fruit flavors, richness and natural sweetness balanced with refreshing tannin and finished with a kick always warms my soul.
One of my favorite styles is Tawny Port. These nonvintage wines marry several vintages and spend extensive time in casks, periods ranging from an average of ten to forty years. Tawnies mellow in the barrel and are released when their peak of maturity is reached. Tawny Port is known less for power and concentration than for complexity, purity of fruit and finesse. Also expect a distinctive almond character, admirable balance, elegance and a silky texture.
The great Tawny Ports of Dow’s are particularly good when drunk slightly chilled in warmer weather. Dow’s Port, dating its origins to 1798 and now part of the Symington Family Estates, Dow’s has a long history as one of the most important names in Port. Dow’s tawny Ports are slightly less sweet than most, although they retain the classic richness of all Port wines, and often better balance.
- 10 Year Old Tawny ($39) a fine introduction to tawny style, bright and lively, yet pure and mellow, caramel and toffee; complexity is not the issue here but a suggestion of graceful power meets almond and cinnamon elements, and a round texture
- 20 Year Old Tawny ($67) some noticeable wood, concentrated fruit, slightly sweeter but balanced with fine acidity and alcoholic power and a touch of bitter almond and butterscotch; a hint of spice impressively counters its woody attitude
Northern Portugal’s Vinho Verde (Green Wine) is about as opposite to Port as you can get. It is notable for distinctively light, refreshing, low alcohol wines. Alvarinho (known as albariño in nearby Spain) is the predominant variety, though other native grapes (including arinto and loureiro) are used. The wines are fresh and fruity, brisk (sometimes even spritzy) yet harmonious. All of the wines in this report are from 2020. They are wonderful for casual drinking, versatile with food and generally best enjoyed young.
These wines are listed in order of my preference but all are recommended:
- Quinta da Raza Alvarinho ($15) generous grapefruit and pear
- Soalheiro Alvarinho ($22) concentrated but elegant orange and stone fruits
- Casa de Vila Verde Tiroliro Branco ($12) luscious pear and lemon with mineral
- Encostas do Lima Medium Dry ($13) pineapple, mango, papaya, pleasantly sweet
- Adega Ponte da Barca Premium ($9) juicy lemon and mineral
- Portal da Calcada Reserva ($14) slight spritzy, vivid fruit, floral notes
NOTE: Featured image courtesy of Quinta-da-Perdiz