Chardonnay’s place at the pinnacle of popularity in the U.S. has lasted for nearly four decades. It is the most planted grape and number one in sales volume. Its adaptability to different growing conditions and winemaking styles at least partly explains this.
There was a period of winemaking excess, primarily characterized by what is now considered overuse of new oak barrels for fermentation and aging, malolactic fermentation, and aging on the lees (spent yeast cells) – all practices that enhance richness and complexity. But too much, especially when applied to overripe grapes, overwhelms the pure, fresh natural fruit of the grape. The result was the stereotype of the big, buttery, oaky high alcohol California Chardonnay.
More recently, winemakers are seeking better balance. More judicious use of these practices produces wines of lush texture but vibrant structure accented variously with notes of cream, butter, toast, vanilla, baking spice, and nuts. The fruit will be prominent and the grape’s natural citrus may be joined with apple, pear, and stone, orchard, or tropical fruit, depending on the climate of the vineyard and the ripeness at harvest.
The following wines are listed in order of personal preference but all are recommended.
This first group deftly walk the line between opulence and freshness, pure fruit and richness, delivering complexity with oak influence more as seasoning than dominant flavoring.
2020 Lucia Soberanes Vineyard ($65) ripe, succulent, stone, toast, nutty, savory
2019 Argyle Nuthouse ($45) vibrant, juicy, tangy, butterscotch, toasty, nutty
2019 Ram’s Gate Hyde Vineyard ($70) fresh, focused, luxurious, stony, spicy
2019 FEL Savoy Vineyard ($52) coconut, brioche, stone, spice
2019 Gary Farrell Russian River Selection ($35) juicy, rich, integrated, textural
2020 Jordan Russian River Valley ($40) luscious, caramel, toast, baking spice
2019 Cuvaison ATS ($60) full, rich, brioche, honeysuckle, vanilla
2019 Migration Sonoma Coast ($42) broad, lush, juicy, spice
2019 Calera Mt. Harlan ($55) savory, butter, brioche, honeysuckle
2020 Lucia Santa Lucia Highlands ($50) mouthwatering, toasty, structured, creamy
2018 Medlock Ames Lower Slope ($48) juicy, honeyed, nutty, silky
2019 Cuvaison Kite Tail ($50) zesty, ginger, concentrated, satiny, oaky, toasty
2019 Lucienne Lone Oak ($40) fresh, stone, hazelnut
2019 Dry Creek Vineyard DCV Block 10 ($34) tangy, stony, oaky, baking spice
2019 The Hilt Sta. Rita Hills ($45) vibrant, toasty, ginger, graceful, steely
These wines veer even more to less oak, more neutral oak and stainless steel, little or no malolactic. They emphasize a fresher, livelier, fruitier, more ebullient style.
2019 Anaba Sonoma Coast ($40) lip-smacking, steely, light oak
2019 Ram’s Gate Estate ($76) ripe, rich, elegant, baking spice
2019 MacRostie Wildcat Mountain ($46) crisp, rich, buttery
2020 FEL Anderson Valley ($34) zesty, stony, spice
2020 Cuvaison Méthode Béton ($40) racy, intense, savory
2019 Bouchaine Carneros ($36) juicy, spicy herb, anise
Finally, the following wines are very good values for every day.
2019 MacRostie Sonoma Coast ($26) rich, oaky, caramel
2020 Calera Central Coat ($26) firm, intense, delicate
2020 Alma de Cattleya Sonoma County ($26) juicy, biscuit, butterscotch
2019 Balletto Teresa’s Unoaked ($20) zesty, searing, steely
2019 Hahn SLH ($25) snappy, stony, earthy
2020 Raeburn Russian River Valley ($20) structured, light chalk, sweet-tart
2020 J. Lohr Arroyo Vista ($25) tangy, vanilla, mildly spicy