Considering white wines from around the world, those from Spain and Portugal arguably are among the least known by consumers. And among the white wines of Spain and Portugal, Spain’s Rueda (verdejo grape) gets less attention than Rías Baixas (albariño grape) and Portugal’s Alentejo (multiple native grapes) gets less attention than Vinho Verde (multiple grapes). Let’s rectify that situation.
Rueda, located 100 miles northwest of Madrid, is mostly flatlands verdejo has been farmed here for 1000+ years. Over the past two decades the grape has finally come unto its own with dramatic improvements in quality. It’s gravelly soils, cold winters, short springs, and very hot and dry summers are the ideal habitat for the grape.
Rueda Verdejo wines often are described as having characteristics similar to Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris wines. Most show crisp, elegant citrus or tropical fruit often with herbal notes and broadness on the palate. Some accentuate delicate, bright fruit, while others richness and near-savory nuttiness.
Alentejo is a large, sparsely populated region in the south of Portugal about 90 minutes from Lisbon. A hot, dry region, it generally produces white wines with fine aromatics brisk acidity and fresh citrus and tropical fruit accented with subtle minerality. It is a major producer of wine corks and houses UNESCO World Heritage sites. Vineyards have been present there for over 3,000 years and the region has a history of stewardship of an amazing array of native grapes. It also has distinguished itself for its proactive sustainability efforts to address climate change.
In contrast to Rueda, Alentejo whites are blends of indigenous grapes like antão vaz, Alentejo’s star white grape, which provides aromatics and body; arinto, which adds exuberant acidity, green apple, lemon, lime and mineral notes; roupeiro, for its seductive notes of orange and lemon, hints of peach and melon; fernão pires, which brings aromatics and spice; verdelho, which contributes fresh and fruity character and can develop richness and alvarhino, which originates from the Azores and delivers fresh fruity character that can develop texture.
RECOMMENDED WINES
Rueda Verdejo
2020 Bodegas Vatan “Nisia Las Suertes” ($30) dry farmed, ungrafted vines, some vines as old 125 years fermented in old puncheons and demi-muids, aged on the lees nine months; creamy, full body, elegant, demonstrates the heights this grape can achieve
2021 Cuatro Rayas “Caballito del Mar” ($14) 87-year-old growers cooperative, smooth, fresh, fruity
2021 Protos “Ser Primero” ($14) 95-year-old winery, rich, tropical, apple, fennel
Alentejo
2021 Torre de Palma Arinto & Alvarinho ($40) on a property that dates to 1338 and now houses an elite hotel; tight, crisp, citrus, spicy hints
2018 Adega de Portalegre “Conventual” Reserva ($25) 67-year-old cooperative, from vineyards in a national park; aged in oak, fragrant lime, lemongrass, succulent
2021 Herdade do Esporão “Colheita Branco” ($18) while the property dates to the thirteenth century, the winery was established in 1973; its vineyards are certified organic; bracing, spicy, juicy
2020 Rocim “Mariana” ($16) organic grapes, good body, brisk, apple, herb, melon
2020 Adega de Redondo “Porta da Ravessa” Special Edition ($15) 65-year-old cooperative, lemon-lime, spicy herb, melon
2021 Marques de Borba “Colheita Branco” ($13) nice presence, juicy citrus/tropical fruit
NOTE: Featured image of verdejo grapes is courtesy of KYSELA PERE ET FILS, LTD.