FINE SPARKLING WINES TO RING IN 2023

While sparkling wine is usually the wine of choice for special occasions, I suggest bubbly is to be enjoyed any time of year and at any occasion, including tonight’s meal. sparkling wine is made just about everywhere on the planet and at a variety of price points. Here is just a sampling. (All are nonvintage, unless otherwise state.)

One method for producing bubbles is the Charmat Method: bubbles come from the second fermentation in large, pressurized stainless steel tanks. Italian Prosecco is arguably the most popular example, and an especially good value. Expect fresh, delicate pear, apple, citrus, and peach complimented with a frothy palate.

Gancia, which lays claim to being the first Italian sparkling wine producer and also is known for its popular Vermouth, produces delightful Prosecco Brut (delicate, fresh citrus and pear) and Rosé ($14) are delightful choices. 

Villa Wolf, a premier estate in Germany’s Pfalz region, offers a Pinot Noir Rosé ($16) that is fresh and elegant with strawberry and cherry. By the way, German bubbles are  known as “sekt”.

The Champagne Method or Traditional Method, where bubbles form during a second fermentation in the bottle, usually generates the more prized (read expensive) wines. Italy also produces what they call Metodo Classico. While Franciacorta and Trentodoc are the best known examples, these delightful Sicilian bubbles should convince you to look south. 

  • Tenuta Nicosia “Sosta Tre Santi Etna”($30) from nerello mascalese grown at high altitude on the volcano, expect brisk lemon, pear, lychee, saline, mineral and saline 
  • Planeta Carricante Brut Sicilia DOC ($44) from carricante, fresh citrus and peach, delicate, and honeyed

How about an unlikely Traditional Method from Argentina? The 2020 Mascota Vineyards “Unánime” Brut ($20) from chardonnay and malbec, has good intensity and finishes creamy and elegant.

Arguably the best value in Champagne Method bubbly is Spanish Cava, primarily from the Penedès region near Barcelona, mostly native grapes. 

  • Segura Viudas Reserva Heredad ($30) its portfolio’s crown jewel, made with macabeo and parellada, is full and rich, yet elegant
  • Los Dos Brut ($13) from macabeo, xarel-lo, parellada, lemon, green apple, pear, and fresh bread
  • Mercat Brut Rosé ($14) from macabeo, xarel-lo, parellada, and monastrell, fresh red berries and crisp citrus

Of course, there also is an abundance of fine California Champagne Method sparkling wine. 

  • 2016 Frank Family Blanc de Blancs ($55) chardonnay; lively citrus, delicate, rich; 2017 Brut Rosé pinot noir; complex, red berries, refined
  • 2018 Cuvaison Brut Cuvée ($50) pinot noir, chardonnay; luscious citrus, brioche;
  • 2017 Cuvaison Brut Rosé ($60) pinot noir, chardonnay; raspberry, pink grapefruit, succulent 
  • 2019 Sosie “Bare Necessity” Rosé ($36) syrah; apple, strawberry, almond
  • 2019 Goldeneye Brut Rose ($70) Anderson Valley, 100% pinot noir, intense cherry and strawberry with pleasant yeasty notes
  • 2019 Sonoma-Cutrer Grand Brut Rose ($55) Russian River Valley 70% pinot noir, 30% chardonnay

And from Oregon, especially Argyle in Willamette Valley, one of the state’s premier sparkling wine makers since its founding in 1987. 

  • 2018 Brut ($30) chardonnay with pinot noir and pinot meunier, rich with juicy lemon custard 
  • 2019 Blanc de Blancs ($30) chardonnay; intense, energetic citrus, stone fruits, toasty, light spice, lush texture 
  • 2012 Extended Tirage Brut ($85) pinot noir, chardonnay; specially produced from extended aging is impressively complex and full flavored.

Finally, an impressive new sparkler from Laurent Gruet, who is well-known for world class bubbles under the Gruet label from his unlikely base in Albuquerque, New Mexico. With 40 years of sparkling wine making experience, he is breaking boundaries with Silverhead Brut ($25), a new release from Vara Winery & Distillery. Collaborating with respected California winemakers Bob Lindquist and Louisa Sawyer Lindquist to blend chardonnay and syrah from Washington with xarel-lo and macabeo from Spain. Produced by the Traditional Method Silverhead is delightful with lemon, apple and toast. 

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