Riesling is an enigma. The grape can make some of the planet’s greatest white wines. But it also may be the most underappreciated white wine. It’s subject to misperceptions, such as “all Riesling is sweet” and “it’s only grown in Germany”. Well, contrary to the assumptions of many, not all Riesling is sweet. And, as great as German Riesling is, Riesling from Alsace can reach equally majestic heights. And most Alsace Riesling is dry.
Located in northeastern France between the Rhine River and the Vosges mountains, on the borders of Germany and Switzerland, Alsace has a history of invaders occupying it as a strategic geopolitical position. In addition to Strasbourg and Colmar, much of its charm is in the many small villages that have been preserved throughout that history.
Farming of grapes began with the occupation of the Romans in the second century. Over the next 1800 years, the wine of the region suffered many inconsistencies, largely a result of war, occupation and overproduction. It wasn’t until after the first world war that a tentative renewal of the region began. It coincided with a switch from German to French control. (Alsace has alternated between German and French control over the centuries and reflects a mix of those cultures.) Efforts to improve quality finally began to take hold after the second world war. But didn’t really advance until the 1970s. Today, many would say it is one of the highest quality, not to mention one of the most beautiful, production regions of France.
The diversity of Alsace terroirs (including granite, sandstone, calcareous limestone, and slate) is ideal for riesling, which is widely regarded as one of the most transparent grapes, a medium through which terroir can be expressed. But cool climate, especially on the hillsides, also is important. Records suggest riesling was introduced during the 9th century in Germany’s Rheinghau and made it to Alsace at the end of the 15th century. But its growth really only developed in the second half of the 19th century. It was after the 1960’s that it reached the top position of production in Alsace, where 90% is white wine.
Typically, Riesling d’Alsace wines are enticingly aromatic, fresh, elegant, and most importantly dry. Expect to find lemon, citrus, peach, apricot and pear, occasionally with delicate floral notes. Sometimes, there even is a touch of anise and the Grands Crus (highest classified vineyards) and lieux-dits (other single vineyard wines) can reveal mineral elements. On the palate, the wines drink quite energetic, with racy precision. Intense fruit is presented with finesse but enough weight to balance the brisk character. The wines (usually a blend of selected vineyards, unless otherwise noted), age well. The Grands Crus and lieux-dits are best five-to-ten years after harvest and can mature nicely twice that long. They are relatively low alcohol and terrific values.
And Riesling is a fine food wine. A great match for fish and shellfish, poultry and white meats. It cuts through creamy and other rich sauces, refreshing each bite. Its character makes for a particularly successful combination with oysters and even caviar. It also is one of the most versatile wines with cheese, from fresh goat to soft Brie to salty Parmesan.
Recommended Wines
2017 Mélanie Pfister “Engelberg” Grand Cru ($48) small estate began life in 1780 in northern Alsace; limestone laced marl soils currently farmed by the eighth generation now fully organic; full, rich intense, searing lemon, structured elegance, luscious and stony character lively and earthy
2017 Domaines Schlumberger “Saering” Grand Cru ($36) founded in 1810 on vineyards originally planted by the Romans; 100% estate-bottled wines near Guebwiller, 6th and 7th generations carry on the family tradition; the largest Grands Crus producer in Alsace; sandstone, marl and calcareous (limestone) soils; still youthful mixed citrus fruits, apple, focused and mouthwatering, touches of stony mineral, and spice
2020 Meyer-Fonné Reserve ($29) family owned near the village of Katzenthal since founding in the late 19th century; blend of vineyards of mostly granite with alluvial, sandstone, clay and calcareous soils, includes fruit from Grand Cru vineyards and other single vineyards; juicy orange, concentrated, elegant, stony mineral notes and anise
2019 Kuentz-Bas ($22) over 225 years old property; made from biodynamic and sustainably farmed fruit with minimal-intervention cellar practices; very dry, intense, energetic, aromatic, green apple, anise, apricot, fruity
Domaine Christophe Mittnacht 2019 Terres d’Etoiles ($29) family-run estate founded in 1958 near the town of Hunawihr; early pioneers of the biodynamic movement, officially certified biodynamic in 1999; terroir is clay and limestone; delicate, fresh and floral
2019 Cave de Ribeauvillé ($17) founded in 1895, vineyards surround village of Ribeauvillé; oldest wine co-operative in France, currently with 110 members; from a patchwork of different soils and subsoils; fresh lemon citrus, flint