Dotted with notable native white varieties, central and southern Italy offer a cornucopia of crisp, refreshing, distinctive white wines. They also offer adventurous drinking and are deal for warm weather. Here is a good start.
Sardinia and Tuscany. Vermentino is a rare variety, grown mostly Sardinia, Liguria and the western coast of Tuscany, where it produces crisp, medium-bodied wines with citrus, apple and suggestions of sea air.
- 2022 Surrau “Sciala” ($29)special selections from the best vineyards in Sardiana; laced with citrus, almond, tangy saltiness
- 2022 Argentiera “Eco di Mare” ($33) from Tuscany’s coastal Maremma; pear, apricot, light mineral
- 2022 Masso Vivo ($22) from Frescobaldi’s Ammiraglia estate in Maremma; floral, candied tropical and citrus fruit, mineral
- 2022 Querciabella Mongrana ($16) certified organic, vegan; fruity, tangy citrus herbs sea breeze
Marche. Verdicchio, the region’s signature white grape, offers brisk apple, citrus, with stony notes. Its most distinguished version is labeled Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi. These fine samples are from Garofoli, one of the oldest family-owned wineries in Marche.
- 2021 Podium ($30) single-vineyard selection, notable concentration, honey, mineral
- 2022 Serra del Conte ($13) bright, juicy, a fine introductory wine
Abruzzo. In Italy’s most verdant region, there has been a resurrection of indigenous grapes, notably pecorino, an ancient variety once thought to be extinct, and trebbiano, the most widely planted grape.
- Villa Gemma “Colline Teatine” IGT ($24) trebbiano pecorino blend, fruity, herbal, mineral
- 2021 Torre Sambra “Poggio Salaia” Pecorino ($17) organic, crisp, citrus, apricot
- 2022 Masciarelli Trebbiano d’Abruzzo ($16) fresh, juicy, for everyday
Lazio. The region with Rome at its heart is less known for its wines. But the 2019 Cotarella “Ferentano” ($25) from rare, indigenous roscetto grapes, succeeds with suggestions of banana, pineapple, caramel, vanilla, richness.
Sicily. Sicily is home to several noteworthy native grapes, especially the ancient native grape carricante from the newly treasured Mount Etna area. Designated Etna Bianco, these are fine examples.
- 2022 Tenuta Ferrata “Veni” ($27) in the heart of the World Heritage site; old vines; vibrant pear, vanilla, almond, light saltiness
- 2021 Palmento Costanzo “bianco dei sei” ($27) organic old vines, indigenous yeast; some catarratto; graceful citrus, mineral
- 2022 Tenuta Tascante “Buonora” ($24) estate vineyards, certified sustainable; sharp citrus, slate, fresh herbs
The wines below highlight three other native grapes and locations worth your attention.
- 2022 Tenuta Capofaro “Didyme” ($30) malvasia di Lipari grape from Lipari Island off the northeast coast; fresh citrus, stone and tropical fruit
- Tenute Navarra “Sofien” 2022 ($22) certified sustainable (environmental, social, governance) indigenous grillo (with chardonnay!), floral pear, peach, rounded
- 2022 Sallier de la Tour Inzolia ($16) historically an important component of Marsala and many Sicilian blends; this certified sustainable varietal wine is dynamic with citrus, stone fruits and savory notes