Spain has one of the world’s most expansive wine cultures with notable vineyard areas and distinctive native grapes reflecting enormous varietal diversity. Except that the native tempranillo alone accounts for over 40% of Spain’s red wine production.
The two major growing regions are Rioja located in north central Spain and Ribera del Duero a little south of Rioja. Both have winemaking histories dating back 2500-3000 years. The red wines are made in styles based on minimum total, barrel and bottle aging requirements – Crianza: 2 years; at least one year in barrel; Reserva: 3 years; at least one year in barrel: Gran Reserva: 5 years; at least 2 years in barrel.
Tempranillo typically exhibits cherry and red berry fruit, good acidity and solid tannins, accented with savory notes, including tobacco, leather and red pepper. Crianzas are fresher; Reservas show more oak and depth; Gran Reservas are rich, layered, tannic wines. Prices range from every day to collectible but Rioja is a good value in all categories.
In Rioja, tempranillo sometimes is blended with small amounts of garnacha, mazuela, or gaciano. The wineries below deftly balance a respect for tradition with modern winemaking practices to produce brighter wines with more fruit and a sense of terroir. Both of the wineries below employ sustainability practices and are certified by the Wineries for Climate Protection organization.
Ramón Bilbao (established in 1924):
2019 Crianza ($19) hints of smoky oak with dusty tannins
2016 Reserva ($27) solid fruit, good energy, vanilla, tobacco, smoke, fine tannins
Conde Valdemar (Valdemar family, vintners since 1889):
- 2019 Crianza ($20) fresh with well-integrated oak, licorice
- 2015 Reserva ($30) sweet wood spice, cocoa, sense of elegance
- 2015 Gran Reserva ($45) intense, full-bodied, cocoa, licorice earth, solid tannins
Tempranillo accounts for 88% of all Rioja plantings. But many producers are rediscovering other native grapes, such as graciano, garnacha, and mazuelo. The 2020 Beronia Graciano ($28) from the first LEED certified winery in Europe, is a different expression of Rioja with fresh, floral, black cherries, savory sweetness, and smooth structure.
These days, Ribera del Duero is sought after for its more modern styled red wines, particularly from the native tinta del pais variety (a local tempranillo clone). Winemakers there are more likely to craft wines that are vibrant, combining power and finesse, concentration and refinement, as dictated by their terroir. Some of Spain’s most celebrated and expensive wines are produced there.
2019 Dominio Fournier ($30) established in 1960, elegant, structured and intense
2020 Áster “El Espino” ($40) selection of special plots from the estate vineyard, organic practices; sleek, graceful, seductive
2019 Áster “Finca El Otero” ($60) single plot selection; bold, creamy ripe berries, hints of tobacco, mocha, white pepper, full-bodied, subtle tannins