Nebbiolo is the grape variety responsible for Italy’s revered Barolo and Barbaresco bottlings, while also thriving in the nearby region of Valtellina near the Swiss border. In the right hands and conditions, the finnicky grape produces wines that not only withstand the test of time but grow more complex and pronounced with age.
Curiously, nebbiolo reaches such heights only in Piemonte (Piedmont in English), specifically Barolo and Barbaresco from its Langhe subregion. There’s just something about this grape grown in this place as expressed in the resulting wines that testify to the synergy of grape and terroir. These wines, considered among Italy’s best, are always 100% the indigenous nebbiolo grape.
Named after nearby towns, Barolo and Barbaresco are different expressions of nebbiolo. Still, both deftly exhibit a balancing act of elegance with substantial tannins. A typical flavor profile includes enticing cherry and raspberry fruit with pungent, smoky forest or tobacco and often menthol notes. There are many fine producers but good values are hard to find, as many of the wines approach and exceed $100 a bottle. But I found these excellent values.
Barolo is characterized as more powerful, tannic, larger scaled, and somewhat austere but with dramatically intense fruit.
2020 Coppo Comune di la Morra ($59) dark fruit, truffle, smooth tannins
2019 Enrico Serafino Monclivio ($53) hillside estate vineyards; juicy, fresh, sleek texture
Barbaresco tends to be slightly less tannic but more balanced.
2020 Marchesi di Grésy Martinenga ($70) single vineyard; vibrant fruit, earth, firm, refined tannins
For a taste at more affordable prices, wines labeled “Langhe Nebbiolo”, usually feature grapes from younger vines and multiple vineyard sources. The wines approximate their bigger siblings but with less intensity and softer palates.
2021 Vietti “Perbacco” ($32) vegan friendly; deep fruit, earth, smoke
2020 Enrico Serafino “Picotener” ($30) sleek, charry, smoke, solid frame
Piemonte’s neighbor to the north, Lombardia is home to Valtellina, a mountainous subregion north of Milan, also sources fine examples, like these from Tenuta Scerscé.
2021 Nettare Rosso di Valtellina ($30) crisp, bright, herbal, friendly tannins
2019 Valtellina Superiore Riserva Valgella ($60) single vineyard; roses, earth, sharp tannins