The northeastern regions of Veneto, Alto Adige and Friuli-Venezia Giulia have led a re-awakening in Italian white wine production, while remaining a reliable source of distinctive red wines.
Typically, these wines, often produced with native grapes, display natural freshness and expressiveness of their origins. In this column, I focus on wines from grapes most often associated with France.
Burgundy’s signature red wine, Pinot Noir, was brought to Italy 100 years ago. Now Pinot Nero from Alto Adige are an impressive, more affordable alternative. Enjoy the velvety, fruitful 2021 Eisacktal ($23), juicy, earthy 2022 Abbazia Novacella ($24),
2018 Abbazia Novacella Riserva “Praepositus” ($30) graceful, baking spices, elegant, floral, spicy 2020 Kaltern Riserva ($35).
There also are Bordeaux-style wines. The 2022 Russiz Superiore Cabernet Franc ($35) from the Collio subregion is well-structured offering a nice mix of bright red berries and pleasant herbal notes.
An intriguing blend cabernet sauvignon and carmenere is the 2020 Inama Bradisismo ($45) with nicely concentrated blackberry and solid structure. It’s a good alternative to a Super Tuscan. Also try, the fine, berry filled 2021 Carmenere “Più” ($22) with 15% merlot and suggestions of baking spice.
The Alto Adige is noteworthy mostly for distinctive white wines with bracing acidity and substantive character, such as the everyday priced 2024 Domenica Trentino ($14). Its vibrant depth of melon, citrus, stone fruits, and mineral notes belies the reputation of Pinot Grigio as simple, fresh and pleasant.
Sauvignon Blanc (often labeled simply as Sauvignon) leans to fresh citrus with herbal, and mineral notes. The brisk, fruity, herbal 2022 Abbazia Novacella ($26) is a worthy choice. The 2024 San Leonardo “Vette” ($25) with vibrant, intense fruit, and minerality is a fabulous value.
Gewürztraminer is mostly associated with Alsace but it originated in Trentino-Alto Adige, where it tends to be more delicate and crisp but super aromatic, with refreshing lychee, apricot and spice. Try the delightful 2022 Pfitscher “Stoass” ($23) and the amazing intense, exotic 2017 Kellerei Kurtatsch “Brenntal” Riserva ($45).
In Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Livio Felluga is a premier estate bottled, producer of one of the region’s signature wines, Friulano. The 2022 ($35) is creamy, minerally, with almond. Dramatically wonderful (and costly) 2020 “Terre Alte” ($109), a single-vineyard blend of friulano, pinot bianco and sauvignon, is one of Italy’s most prestigious white wines. It is elegant yet intense with layers of fruit, honey, floral and savory elements, and rich texture.